Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Buckhorn Lookout – 06/15/2023

We had spent Wednesday wading through poison ivy along the Imnaha River on our way to Eureka Bar (post). Thursday’s hike promised to involve a lot less poison ivy even though the trailhead was less than four miles as the crow flies from the Cow Creek Trailhead where we’d parked the day before. This was because we would be starting over 4000′ higher in elevation at Buckhorn Lookout.

Before we made it to the lookout we stopped to watch a small herd of elk cross the road and run up a hillside.
IMG_0817

IMG_0818

IMG_0820At least one bull in the herd.

We parked at the lookout and checked out the view there first then walked back along the road 0.2-miles and turned right on Forest Road 780 for another 1.2-miles to a gate.
IMG_0824Buckhorn Lookout

IMG_0827

IMG_0831

IMG_0832

IMG_0835Hells Canyon

IMG_0833Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0826Pale paintbrush

IMG_0842

IMG_0849Larkspur, lupine, and northern mules ears.

IMG_0855Prairie smoke a.k.a. old man’s whiskers

20230615_062721Purple sticky geranium

IMG_0872Paintbrush

IMG_0877Parsley, larkspur, large flower triteleia, and Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0879Phlox

IMG_0882We could have driven the 1.2-miles on FR 780 to the gate but the road was not in good shape and after driving to Eureka Bar the day before we weren’t interested in another rough road.

20230615_063649Mallow ninebark

IMG_0900Arnica

20230615_064123Large flower triteleia

IMG_0948

IMG_0954

IMG_0959Gate at the end of the road.

IMG_0960Marker for the Nez Perce – Nee-Mee-Poo National Historic Trail.

The trail followed an old roadbed downhill 7.6-miles to Eureka Bar, but our plan was to go just 3.6-miles to what Sullivan refers to as the “Eureka Viewpoint”. The entire route was lined with wildflowers. The mixture and types changed as we lost elevation, over 1780′ in all, to the viewpoint.
IMG_0961

IMG_0965

20230615_071903Columbian lewisia

IMG_0976

IMG_0978Seven Devils in Idaho

IMG_0982Lupine, yarrow, buckwheat, and scarlet gilia

20230615_072846Scarlet gilia

IMG_0993

IMG_1005

IMG_1010Elkhorn clarkia a.k.a. ragged robin

IMG_1015Another impressive scarlet gilia.

IMG_1018Paintbrush, lupine, phacelia, thistle, and scarlet gilia

IMG_1025

20230615_074140Penstemon

IMG_1034A phlox

IMG_1035Scabland penstemon

IMG_1046Threadleaf phacelia

20230615_074846Penstemon

IMG_1054Paintbrush

IMG_1065Lark sparrow

IMG_1075Cedar waxwing

IMG_1078Elkhorn clarkia

IMG_1086Wallflower

IMG_1091

IMG_1099Skullcap

IMG_1102Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_1105Monkeyflower and some tiny white flowers near a seep.

IMG_1116Buckwheat

IMG_1118

IMG_1126

Mylitta crescentMylitta crescent

IMG_1135Rough eyelashweed

IMG_1138Looking back up the trail.

IMG_1146At Spain Saddle the road switched to the opposite side of the ridge.

IMG_1153

IMG_1155Bush penstemon

IMG_1158

IMG_1159Another type of penstemon

White spiraeaWhite spiraea

Manyflower tonellaManyflower tonella

IMG_1176Owl’s clover

Six tenths of a mile from Spain Saddle we detoured left along a fence to a viewpoint.
IMG_1174The viewpoint on the far side of the fence.

IMG_1183

IMG_1184Boat on the Snake River.

IMG_1190Salsify

We continued on from the first viewpoint and wound up having to yield the trail to a few cows that were being herded up the trail. After the cowgirl convinced them it was safe to pass by us we resumed our downhill hike.
IMG_1197

IMG_1200Bindweed

IMG_1205Thistle with bugs.

IMG_1210Clouds moving in behind us.

IMG_1216Prickly pear cactus

IMG_1218The only poison ivy we saw all hike.

IMG_1227Eureka Viewpoint ahead to the left.

Hairy goldenasterHairy goldenaster

IMG_1233Fleabane

IMG_1239Eureka Viewpoint

IMG_1240Looking back

IMG_1254Looking down

IMG_1255

IMG_1245Clustered broomrape

The most exciting part of Eureka Viewpoint wasn’t the view. It was finding some prickly pear cactus in bloom.
IMG_1259

IMG_1310

As for the view the three small portions of the Snake River was visible below.
IMG_1276

IMG_1277

IMG_1287A very small part of the river is visible to the left and more to right.

IMG_1280

IMG_1283

As we rested at the viewpoint we got to looking around and realized that there was a common nighthawk sleeping on a nearby fence post.
IMG_1294

IMG_1316

After a good break we began the long climb back to the lookout. The forecast had been for mostly sunny skies but it had grown increasingly hazy all day and there were now even more clouds converging overhead. It didn’t rain so the cloud cover was welcome as it kept the temperature from getting too high. The haze, which was smoke from wildfires was more problematic as it really hindered the views and by the time we’d reached the lookout we couldn’t see nearly as much as we had that morning.
IMG_1344Here come the clouds.

IMG_1360We spotted a rock arch on the way up that we’d missed earlier.

IMG_1362A closer look at the arch.

IMG_1387Common wood nymph

IMG_1398Spotted towhee

IMG_1408

IMG_1413Northern flicker

IMG_1428The only time we noticed the Imnaha River from the trail.

IMG_1431

IMG_1470Butterfly near the seep.

IMG_1481Mountain parnassian on yarrow.

IMG_1487A painted lady butterfly.

IMG_1494Chipping sparrow

IMG_1511We could actually smell a little smoke at times on the way back.

IMG_1518Tiny trumpet

IMG_1522Hound’s tongue and roses

Cassin's finchCassin’s finch

IMG_1544Western bluebird

IMG_1549Western tanager

IMG_1557Western wood peewee

Hairy Indian paintbrushHairy Indian paintbrush

IMG_1593Hoary balsamroot

IMG_1598Mountain bluebird

IMG_1595The view in the afternoon from the lookout.

This wound up being our favorite hike of the trip despite the views not being as clear as we would have liked, and is one we would certainly revisit given the chance. We’re pretty sure we saw at least 50 different species of wildflowers and the views were good even with the smoke and clouds. Round trip was 10.8 miles with almost 1800′ of elevation gain, almost entirely on the way back.

After driving back to Enterprise we cleaned up and headed to Terminal Gravity Brewing for a nice dinner with a view of the Wallowa Mountains. The next morning we would be leaving Enterprise and heading for Pendleton via the long way around the Wallowas so we could make three stops along the Snake River. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Buckhorn Lookout

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Eureka Bar – 06/14/2023

When I first planned out our trip to Enterprise it included five featured hikes that we’d yet to do: Buckhorn Lookout, Eureka Bar, Dug Bar, Hat Point, and Imnaha Falls. During the weeks leading up to this trip we removed Hat Point due to conflicting information on the status of Hat Point Road. Sullivan’s trail updates listed the road as closed until Summer 2023 and the Forest Service pages listed the Day Use Area as closed but the trailhead as open. I tried reaching out to the USFS for clarification, but they never responded so we swapped that hike with a planned 2024 visit to Hells Creek Reservoir and Dam (two featured hikes).

The next change came when we decided to try and combine Eureka Bar and Dug Bar into a single day versus an overnight stay at Dug Bar. The original plan was to do a 10-mile hike at Eureka Bar then drive to Dug Bar where we could tent camp and do an 8.6-mile hike to Deep Creek the next day before driving back to Enterprise. This was due to the reportedly poor road conditions between Imnaha and the Cow Creek Trailhead (Eureka Bar hike) and even worse road between the Cow Creek Trailhead to Dug Bar. These 15-mile and 11.4-mile stretches of road were said to take a full hour each to drive so why drive the first stretch twice if we didn’t have to. Re-reading the description of the Dug Bar hike in preperation for the trip caused me to rethink this plan since Sullivan’s description of the Dug Bar hike included a one-mile stretch of trail wading through patches of poison ivy. He listed a shorter 1.2-mile option stopping at a viewpoint after only 0.6 miles which sounded much more appealing. This would also be short enough to add to the 10ish miles at Eureka Bar and still be a manageable distance for a single day.

With the new plan in place we left Enterprise and headed for the Cow Creek Trailhead. The road was pretty much as advertised taking an hour to get between Imnaha and the trailhead. The first mile was by far the worst section, but the entire 15-miles were tedious.
IMG_0375Cow Creek Bridge at the Cow Creek Trailhead.

IMG_0378Garbage can at the trailhead.

Before we even set out we were having doubts about Dug Bar. When we arrived there was a herd of cows being driven down Dug Bar Road and a van with bicycles on the far side of the Imnaha River. Driving that road already wasn’t appealing and the idea of encountering cattle or cyclists didn’t make it any better. That was a problem for later though and we set off on a faint trail heading for a trail sign in the distance.
IMG_0380

At the sign we turned right on the Imnaha Trail.
IMG_0386

We followed this trail 4.2 miles to the Snake River at Eureka Bar. Sullivan mentioned stepping around poison ivy that, along with blackberry bushes, often crowded the trail. As it turned out the brush didn’t just crowd the trail, it had taken over the trail in places. We hacked our way through the non-poison ivy vegetation and relied on our long pants to keep the sea of poison ivy at bay.
IMG_0392Penstemon along the trail.

IMG_0399

IMG_0410Geese on the river.

IMG_0411Cliff swallows

20230614_071938Moth mullein

IMG_0417Hawk

IMG_0433Showy milkweed

IMG_0436

IMG_0447Prickly pear cactus

IMG_0454Heading into a brushy area.

IMG_0462

IMG_0467Rose

IMG_0472Lorquin’s admiral

We were on the lookout for rattlesnakes but didn’t see any (until one crossed the road on the drive back to Enterprise), but I did see three of what I believe were rubber boas.
IMG_0476Can you spot the snake?

IMG_0478The snake heading off the rocks into the brush.

While we fortunately didn’t encounter too many snakes there were hundreds of large crickets.
IMG_0480

IMG_0484I cleared this section of trail.

IMG_0490

IMG_0493Sumac along the trail.

IMG_0499The only marker that Sullivan mentioned along the trail was this pillar on the right at the 2.8-mile mark.

IMG_0501

Painted ladyPainted lady

20230614_094112St. John’s wort and poison ivy.

IMG_0525Skullcap

Becker's whiteBecker’s white

IMG_0538Our first view of the Snake River.

IMG_0539

IMG_0549One of several reminders of the mining town at Eureka Bar in the early 1900’s.

IMG_0550

IMG_0543The Mountain Chief Mine across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0557The Snake River

IMG_0554Chuckar in the brush across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0567Eureka Bar

We followed the trail along the Snake River to a trail post near Eureka Creek. At one time 2000 people lived in this area but after a sternwheeler carrying machinery for a gold processing mill crashed and sank, investors pulled out and the town disappeared.
IMG_0577Skipper on common bugloss.

IMG_0591Imnaha River emptying into the Snake.

IMG_0595Blanketflower

IMG_0598

IMG_0599Bindweed

IMG_0610Sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101814Another sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101958Fleabane

IMG_0620Stones where the gold processing mill was going to be.

IMG_0635

IMG_0647Long-leaved ground-cherry (Physalis longifolia)

IMG_0649

IMG_0652Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0655Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0667Our turnaround point.

IMG_0672

IMG_0675Another mariposa lily

IMG_0677Ruins at Eureka Bar.

IMG_0681

IMG_0678Common merganser

We returned the way we’d come. It felt like there was somehow more poison ivy on the way back.
IMG_0698A prickly pear cactus near Eureka Bar.

IMG_0726Green cricket on poison ivy.

IMG_0750Lazuli bunting

IMG_0757Mourning cloak

IMG_0777

IMG_0783

IMG_0800We missed all of these prickly pear cacti on the first pass.

IMG_0814Arriving back at Dug Bar Road.

This hike ended up being 10.8 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

On the way back to the trailhead we decided that we would not be doing Dug Bar on this day. It was already hot and we’d had enough of the poison ivy. It was also later than we’d expected due to slower hiking caused by the brushy trail. Sullivan had also removed Dug Bar from the featured hikes in his most recent “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook so we could switch editions and not have to make it back in order to complete our 100 hike goal. Making that switch did mean that there were several other hikes that we’d done that were now no longer featured hikes and we’d have to add some new ones to our plans over the next year and a half to still be on track to finish by the end of 2024.

We wiped off our poles and clothes as best as we could and hoped that we had managed to avoid any exposure to the poison ivy. As of Monday the 19th we both seem to be in the clear. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Eureka Bar