Tag: Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge

Petroglyph Lake, Warner Valley Overlook, and DeGarmo Canyon – 07/22/2020

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 30, 2020
No Comments on Petroglyph Lake, Warner Valley Overlook, and DeGarmo Canyon – 07/22/2020

We took our second outing to the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in three short hikes. The temperatures were still expected to be high and Wednesday also provided the best chance for afternoon thunderstorms so we wanted to be done early for the day.

Our first hike for the day was Petroglyph Lake. As I mentioned in our previous post the Petroglyph Lake Road was closed so we had to decide how we wanted to get there. The easiest choice would have been to walk the closed road for 1.6 miles to visit the lake but Sullivan described a 5 mile off trail loop that not only visited the lake but also a viewpoint along Poker Jim Ridge. We picked the loop and parked along Hart Mountain Road near the signed Hill Top Reservoir Road.

Looking across Hart Mountain Road we could see the small juniper covered knoll along Poker Jim Ridge that we were going to be aiming for.
The knoll is the lower rise to the left.

There was a lone pronghorn grazing in the morning light.

We set off across through the sagebrush angling for the rim.

From left to right: Flagstaff Lake, Upper Campbell Lake, and Campbell Lake.

Hart Mountain Road climbing up to the plateau.

Campbell Lake

We followed the rim north toward the knoll.

An Orobanche

Petroglyph Lake was not visible at first but it lay to the east and we could make out the basin that it was in.

As we gained elevation the further north that we got we finally could see the lake in the basin.

We arrived at the knoll a little over 2 miles from where we’d parked.
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White pelicans and seagulls on Campbell Lake.

Looking south along Poker Jim Ridge

Looking north along Poker Jim Ridge

Junipers on the knoll

We made our way to the north end of the knoll to get a better view in that direction.
Bluejoint Lake below the ridge.

Stone Corral Lake

To reach Petroglyph Lake we had to backtrack to the south on the knoll to avoid a rocky descent.

When we found a suitable spot to descend we could see the lake clearly but we knew that we would lose sight of it again once we were down off the knoll so we picked out some other features to use as reference points. When we were able to see the lake again we aimed for the left side knowing that a rock ledge rimmed its right side.

Pronghorn above the lake.

As we neared the lake we got below the rim rock and turned right to explore along it as this is where the petroglyphs are.

It was approximately a half mile to Petroglyph Lake Road at the far end of the lake and most of that distance was along the cliffs looking at the petroglyphs.

Dragon fly

Western fence lizard

Yellow bellied marmot

When the cliffs began to fade we followed a clear path along the lake to the road where we encountered the first other hikers since the previous Saturday (we’d been passed by a single mountain biker the day before).

After a brief (6 foot) conversation with them we were ready to continue on but we faced a choice. Sullivan’s loop would have had us setting of cross country for 1.5 miles back to the hill top where our car was parked. We could also walk Petroglyph Lake Road to Hart Mountain Road and then walk up that road back to the car. This second option doubled the mileage but it also took us to within a mile of the refuge headquarters where we’d seen the bulk of the pronghorn the day before and it was road walking and not bushwhacking which we were both about done with for a while. The road it was.

The road walk was fine, there were several flowers, a plethora of butterflies, and we did see a few more pronghorn, albeit at a distance.

Some type of primrose I think.

Lupine

There were dozens of butterflies and other pollinators on this rabbitbrush.

20200722_093355

The gate at Petroglyph Lake Road

Hart Mountain Road

The juniper knoll along Poker Jim Ridge and yes there are a few pronghorn out there.

Pronghorn keeping their distance from us.

After making it back to our car we drove just under 2 miles back down Hart Mountain Road to a small pullout with a Warner Mountain Overlook sign and a short (.4 mile) loop trail. We weren’t aware of this little interpretive loop until we drove past it the day before but it looked interesting so we added it to this days itinerary.
Sign for the overlook.

View from the pullout back up toward Hart Mountain.

The start of the loop trail.

Since we had already been up to the juniper knoll which looked this same direction the views from the overlook were not much different from those, but the half dozen interpretive signs along the route were interesting and worth the quick stop.
We like interpretive signs like this where we can see with our own eyes what is being described.

This one helped with identifying the different lakes plus provided the history.

Another of our favorites are the ones that identify the various hills and peaks.

We worked really hard on spotting some big horn sheep on this trip to no avail. There was so much space that they could be in it was like looking for a needle in a haystack.

After completing the loop we continued our drive back toward Lakeview on Hart Mountain Road. We turned off once more at a small pointer for DeGarmo Canyon (4.5 miles after pavement resumed in this direction or 9.4 miles from Plush). Sullivan described the half mile dirt road as very rough and requiring a high clearance vehicle, otherwise he suggested parking along Hart Mountain Road and walking to the trailhead. Typically we heed these warning from him but for some reason I decided to test the road with our Outback. It wasn’t pretty but we did make it to the parking area and I vowed not to make that mistake again.

Sullivan lists three possible hikes with with some additional optional side trips. He has a 1.4 mile out and back to a 35′ waterfall, a 2.6 mile loop, and a 9.4 mile hike to DeGarmo Notch. If you make it to DeGarmo Notch it’s only 2 more miles (4 round trip) to Warner Peak. When our vacation started my plan had been the 9.4 mile hike with the optional trek up Warner Peak. As the week progressed we wound up hiking to Warner Peak the day before from Barnhardi Basin (post) so we didn’t need to do that anymore. We had toyed with the idea of still hiking up to DeGarmo Notch but we had seen that feature the day before as well and we were hot, tired, and a little sick of bushwacking which the 9.4 mile hike had some more of. That left us with the 1.4 mile out and back or 2.6 mile loop, both of which visited the waterfall.

Before we decided which option we would be doing we needed to get across DeGarmo Creek. Sullivan had warned of a dangerous crossing just above a 10′ waterfall and recommended following a rock ledge 50′ upstream to an easier crossing. Given the time of year the creek wasn’t flowing very strongly and vegetation was crowding the rock ledge so we opted to cross above the 10′ waterfall despite the warning.
It’s not visible in this photo but there were dry rocks close enough on the far side to simply step over the water onto. The wet rock would have been very slippery and certainly dangerous.

We followed a path upstream and found the location of Sullivan’s recommended crossing.

A steep trail led up around the vegetation along the creek into a wider canyon that had some very interesting rock formations. It was also extremely warm as it was directly in the sun and there was no breeze.

We had our eyes out for snakes but only saw a couple of lizards.

The 35′ waterfall was just .7 miles up the canyon and it came into view well before we arrived at it.

The temperature at the falls was much more pleasant and was a popular spot with the local butterflies.

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We took a relaxing break at the falls surrounded by the butterflies. When it was time to continue our hike we both agreed that neither one of us was up for what it would take to do any of the options other than the 1.4 mile out and back. In order to do any of the longer hikes, even the 2.6 mile loop, we would have needed to follow a steep scramble route 200′ before the falls up around some cliffs. We had both spied the route on our way to the falls and both thought “not today”.
The scramble route is at the base of the cliff to the right.

Looking up from the trail at where the scramble route was heading.

We were happy with our choice and ready to get out of the heat so we retraced our steps back to the 10′ water fall.

The smaller waterfall had been invaded by butterflies too.

After carefully driving the wretched half mile to Hart Mountain Road we headed back to Lakeview to treat ourselves to burgers and milkshakes from the Burger Queen drive thru. It was our shortest day so far of the vaction at 8.7 miles (6.8 at Petroglyph Lake, 0.4 at the overlook, and 1.5 at DeGarmo Canyon) but that was plenty. Thursday’s hike had the potential of being the longest of our trip as we were set to visit one of the six remaining wilderness areas in Oregon that we had yet to hike in, the Gearhart Mountain Wilderness. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Petroglyph Lake, Warner Valley Overlook, and DeGarmo Canyon

Tags Antelope, Burger Queen, DeGarmo Canyon, Hart Mountain, Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, hiking, Lakeview, Oregon, Petroglyph, Petroglyph Lake, Poker Jim Ridge, pronghorn, Warner Valley Overlook, Waterfall

Central Oregon Hiking Lakeview Oregon Trip report

Flook Lake and Hart Mountain Hot Springs – 07/21/2020

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 27, 2020
3 Comments on Flook Lake and Hart Mountain Hot Springs – 07/21/2020

Tuesday marked the start of a short stretch of possible showers and thunder storms but not until Tuesday night so we had decided the night before to start the day at Flook Lake in the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge. Originally we had planned on doing hikes at Flook Lake, Petroglyph Lake, and Hart Mountain Hot Springs all in the same day, but that plan had changed. We wanted to do Flook Lake before any possible showers because Flook Lake road can become dangerously muddy when wet. We had also moved a side trip to Warner Peak, the high point in the refuge, to our Hart Mountain Hot Springs stop instead of tacking it onto our DeGarmo Canyon hike. The reason for that move was to avoid being exposed at an elevation over 7000′ if a thunder storm rolled in which looked possible both Wednesday and Thursday afternoons. Finally we believed that the road to Petroglyph Lake had been closed adding at least 3 miles to that hike which would have been a little too much distance for one day. If that road turned out to be open we were still planning on doing it along with Flook Lake and the hot springs, but if it was indeed closed we planned on doing it first thing Wednesday morning before DeGarmo Canyon.

We left Lakeview at 5am and headed northeast to Plush stopping along county road 3-13 to admire the sunrise.
Hart Mountain in the morning.

After passing through plush we continued on county road 3-12 (Hart Mountain Road) climbing past the rim of Hart Mountain where we spotted our first pronghorn.

We continued on past Petroglyph Lake Road which was, as we suspected, closed to cars.
(photo from the next day)

A mile past Petroglyph Lake Road (24 miles from Plush) we came to the refuge headquarters which was closed to visitors due to COVID-19. There were numerous pronghorn antelope near the headquarters.
Just a few of the many pronghorn.

At the far end of the headquarters we veered left following pointers for Frenchglen for 6.7 miles to Flook Lake Road. We turned right onto this rocky dirt track for 1.8 miles (the final 6 on Flook Lake’s former lake bed, now an alkali flat) parking next to a dry reservoir.
Flook Lake Road continuing on with Beatys Butte in the distance.

The reservoir

Steens Mountain on the horizon to the east through smoky skies.

It was going to be another 90 degree day and even with our early start it was already warm as we set off toward a canyon SW of where we had parked. We expected to have to walk cross country for nearly a mile to reach the mouth of the canyon but well worn tire tracks allowed for a little easier walking. (I’m not sure if the road was official or the result of illegal off-road driving which would be very disappointing.)
The canyon we were aiming for from near our car.

Zoomed in a bit.

The track we were following eventually faded out along an outwash channel.

After a short stint walking through sagebrush we picked up another track that went right past a closed to motor vehicles sign.

This track didn’t appear to enter the canyon though and it was cross country through the canyon which was busy with wildlife.

Rabbit #1

Rabbit #2

Rabbit #3

A lone juniper in the canyon.

Rabbit #4

Near the end of this half mile canyon there are some Petroglyphs which are currently being guarded by a yellow bellied marmot.

After looking at (and NOT TOUCHING) the petroglyphs we continued to the canyon’s end at Antelope Spring.

Horned lark near the spring.

We returned the way we’d come commenting on how far way our car still looked from the mouth of the canyon.
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Rabbit #5, this one was a jack rabbit.

After returning to our car we drove back through the refuge headquarters staying straight following pointers for the hot springs. Keeping right for 4.5 miles brought us to a parking area next to the hot springs.

We saved the soak in the 102 degree hot spring for after our hike and set off from the parking lot along a gated road toward the Hot Springs Campground.

This road passed another hot spring before arriving at Barnhardi Road in half a mile near the campground.

Hawk hanging out near the hot springs.

Butterfly on dusty maiden.

Barnhardi Road

Campground across Rock Creek.

We turned right on Barnhardi Road for .3 miles to a gate.
Becker’s white

Paintbrush

Sagebrush mariposa lily

We walked past the gate continuing on the road for almost two miles ignoring a road on the right at the 1 mile mark atop a crest.
Hawk overhead

Balsamroot in the sagebrush.

Wild roses in a quaking aspen stand.

Biggest bumble bee either of us had ever seen.

Coming up on the crest at the 1 mile mark.

IMG_0998_stitch View after the crest heading down to Barnhardi Basin.

Sheep moth

Almost two miles from the gate we arrived at a post marking a trail to the collapsing Barnhardi Cabin.

We followed the faint path through a wet meadow filled with mosquitoes to the cabin.
Lewis flax blooming in the meadow.

Barnhardi Cabin

Our plan was to hike up to Warner Peak from the cabin following a route described by Sullivan. Our first misstep was not going back a bit from the cabin and getting well away from the marshy area behind the cabin. Instead we simply angled away from the cabin. This led us through the marshy area where there were some nice flowers but also a ton of mosquitoes.

We took a hard right following game trails through the wet area and out a grassy area where a faint path was visible.

Sullivan’s directions were to follow a little creek up through aspen groves to DeGarmo Notch but after fighting through the vegetation and mosquitoes along the creek behind the cabin we decided to try and skirt the aspen groves in the sagebrush. Growing up in the Bend/Redmond area I was used to walking through sagebrush but here the sagebrush was much taller and thicker than I was used to.

20200721_101324 Another sheep moth

It was tough going but we were making progress and came to a spring with yellow monkeyflowers. Near the spring we both thought we heard a rattle although neither of us saw a snake or were 100% sure that it was really what we’d heard.
The spring.

White triteleia

We headed away form the spring loudly just in case there were snakes about and decided to cross the creek in a gap between aspen groves. Sullivan’s map showed the route crossing to the other side at some point and we felt this was as good a time as any.

The next obstacle was a rocky knoll to the left of the creek and more aspen. We veered between a bit of a gap in the aspen and sidehilled around the knoll.

Barnhardi Basin from the side of the knoll.

View across the creek.

The knoll was steeper and brushier than it had appeared from below but we managed to make it around.

Hawk flying around above us.

From the other side of the knoll we got a good look at the next leg of our uphill bushwhack.
High Point is the peak ahead.

We were being watched from the hillside above as we tried to figure out are next move.

Looking at the map in the guidebook and checking the elevation on our GPS units showed that we were actually above DeGarmo Notch which was shown on the map with an elevation of 6970′ and we were around 7150′ which was fine with us because we would have had to climb up eventually. To get to the notch as shown on the map we would have needed to continue to follow the aspen to their end. From where we were we could see the spot and it would have added needless distance and climbing.
DeGarmo Notch

We were now heading south west toward High Point as we traversed across the hillside above Barnhardi Basin.
Paintbrush

We had to drop under this.

Warner Peak is straight ahead with a tower on top beyond the line of trees in the distance.

Barnhardi Basin getting further away.

Looking back toward DeGarmo Notch.

When we could see beyond High Point we could see that the terrain did some up and down on it’s way to Warner Peak. Our plan was to climb as gradually as possible to avoid having to lose elevation and make it back up later.
We first aimed for the the small rock outcrop beyond High Point then bent to the right to pass the larger rock outcrop before climbing up to the trees in the distance.

Passing another canyon coming up from the west.

Made it past the first outcrop and heading for the right side of the second.

At the second outcrop.

It was a fairly steep climb from the second outcrop to the trees. I arrived first and was greeted by a doe.

I waited for Heather here to plot the final climb to Warner Peak which was now fully revealed.

It was a fairly level walk from the trees to the start of the final steep climb that brought us to Hart Mountain’s highest point.

From Warner Peak we could see the parking area by the Hot Springs and much of the route we’d taken to get to the summit.
The white patch in the distance to the right just beyond the shadow is the parking area.

Our car was still there.

View south over Hart Mountain.

SW to Drake Peak with part of Hart Lake visible below the cliffs.

Looking north toward Juniper Mountain.

East toward Steens Mountain

After a nice long break we started back down. It was easier going since we weren’t climbing anymore and we knew that we could follow our track up to get back down. The more relaxed walk back allowed us to better enjoy the flowers that were around.
Prairie smoke

20200721_124500 Balloon pod milk vetch

Paintbrush

Lupine

Mountain coyote mint

Police car moth on hyssop

We avoided the marshy area around the cabin this time and didn’t hear anything that sounded like a rattle. We did however get a good look at an American kestral.

We had considered doing a loop from the cabin that Sullivan describes by following Rock Creek back to the Hot Springs Campground. It was only .3 miles longer but much of it was trailless and we were hot and tired of bushwhacking so we opted to just walk back on Barnhardi Road. As we got back to that road the clouds were moving in quickly.

We shuffled along the road in the heat looking forward to soaking in the Hot Springs before leaving but we still stopped occassionally for photos.

Butterflies on rabbitbrush

Sagebrush mariposa lily

As we neared the gate on Barnhardi Road two things happened. First we were passed by a mountain biker, the first person we’d encountered since Daly Lake three days earlier and second we finished off our all our water. We were only about a half mile from the car where we had more but we were thankful when we got to the gate and the biker offered us a cold water bottle. We finished that off on our way back to the car and then had our soak before heading back to Lakeview. We never heard any thunder or saw any lightening but a few raindrops hit our windshield on the way back and the wind had picked up so much that there were white caps on Hart Lake as we drove by.

It was another tough day in the heat (although we did get a little chilly on Warner Peak just before heading down). We did 2.7 miles at Flook Lake and another 10.8 to Warner Peak with a combined elevation gain of roughly 2500′.

That night we decided to amend our plan for the next day even further and do the Petroglyph Lake hike followed by the short Warner Valley Overlook Loop that we had passed on our drive to and from the refuge that day. We then would end the day with the shortest option that Sullivan described for DeGarmo Canyon. It would be a shorter day giving us a little more time to rest and an excuse to swing by the Burger Queen in Lakeview and get milk shakes. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Flook Lake and Hart Mountain Hot Springs

Tags Barnhardi Basin, DeGarmo Notch, Flook Lake, Hart Mountain, Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, High Point, hiking, Lakeview, Oregon, Petroglyph, pronghorn, Pronghorn antelope, Sheep Moth, warner peak