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Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Bonny Lakes – 07/24/2024

With dozens of fires already burning across Oregon another round of thunderstorms were forecasted for Wednesday afternoon/evening. We’d decided on the hike to Bonny Lakes which Sullivan had a 7.8-mile option, an 11.8-mile option, and a 16.3-mile loop. Once again we opted for the shortest option to avoid the heat and storms and to try and to keep the strain on my left leg as low as possible while still finishing one of the featured hike’s options.

After driving the very rocky Forest Road 100 we parked at the Tenderfoot Trailhead and set off on the Tenderfoot Wagon Road which quickly entered the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
IMG_9983We managed to get started about ten minutes before 6am.

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The trail brought us to a ford of Big Sheep Creek. We could have forded across, but then we noticed an old log bridge downstream. We backtracked up the trail and found a spur trail leading to the birdge.
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IMG_9994Bugbane and paintbrush

IMG_9996A 2022 wildfire burned the first 3-miles of the trail and left the old footbridge damaged. A steep scramble trail led down to it.

IMG_9997Big Sheep Creek

After crossing on the damaged bridge we rejoined the Wagon Road and began climbing through fields of wildflowers.
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IMG_0009Paintbrush and lupine

IMG_0013Wildfire smoke filling the valley behind us.

The trail leveled out and continued to climb gradually arriving at a junction just before the North Fork Big Sheep Creek at the 1.1-mile mark.
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IMG_0038Phacelia

20240724_063413Butterfly on buckwheat.

IMG_0051Some of the trees survived the fire.

IMG_0055White mariposa lilies in a meadow along the trail.

IMG_0066Junction with the Wing Ridge Trail.

IMG_0074North Fork Big Sheep Creek

IMG_0076Lewis Monkeyflower along the creek.

The trail crossed the creek and continued the gradual climb past more wildflowers and several more streams for 1.2-miles to another junction. Portions of this section of trail burned fairly intensely damaging the soil and leaving little vegetation, but other areas were covered in colorful flowers.
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IMG_0094Canada milk-vetch

20240724_065844Grass-of-parnassus

20240724_065900Bog orchid

20240724_065956Checker-mallow

IMG_0122Bee heading for some monkshood.

<20240724_070059Me in some fireweed.

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IMG_0162Getting eyed by a western tanager.

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IMG_0177When fires burn too hot they damage the soil which makes it difficult for all plants to obtain the necessary nutrients to grow.

IMG_0178A few plants had been able to take hold.

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IMG_0189A healthy patch of paintbrush.

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IMG_0194Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek

IMG_0196Monkeyflower

IMG_0198Brook saxifrage

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IMG_0208Another severely burned section.

IMG_0212The Bonny Lakes Trail forking to the right off of the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail.

We turned onto the Bonny Lakes Trail which continued through the fire scar for approximately another half mile before reaching unburned forest.
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IMG_0221Wildflowers along the Bonny Lakes Trail.

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IMG_0229The wildflowers were profuse along this stretch of trail.

IMG_0231American sawwort

IMG_0234Police car moths

IMG_0247Larkspur and fleabane

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IMG_0259The trail recrossed the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek.

IMG_0266Orange agoseris

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After recrossing the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek the trail followed along it as it climbed toward the Bonny Lakes.
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IMG_0286Taper tip onions

IMG_0290White mariposa lilies

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The trail came to a rock outcrop a half mile before reaching the lakes where it suddenly steepened. As I approached the rocks I heard an animal sound an alarm. A moment later I spotted a pika.
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IMG_0304False hellebore

IMG_0306Checker-mallow

IMG_0309Penstemon on the outcrop.

IMG_0307Mountain larkspur

IMG_0310Pika!

IMG_0314Gathering plants for the Winter store.

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IMG_0321On the steep climb.

IMG_0323Mountain heather

After the steep section the trail relented a bit and soon rejoined the creek on the final climb to Lower Bonny Lake.
IMG_0329Ground squirrel

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IMG_0338The creek was below between the ridges here.

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IMG_0349Stonecrop

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As we were passing above a marshy area along the creek filled with swamp onions Heather spotted a monarch butterfly.
IMG_0356Swamp onions

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IMG_0373Wallowa paintbrush

IMG_0374Aneroid Mountain and Lower Bonny Lake.

IMG_0380Aneroid Mountain to the right and an unnamed peak on the left.

The lake was beautiful. We followed the trail around the east side of the lake crossing a connecting creek between the two lakes.
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IMG_0388Shrubby cinquefoil

IMG_0389Cutleaf anemone seed heads.

IMG_0391Possibly a sandwort.

We followed the trail up a knoll to get a view of Upper Bonny Lake, then left the trail to climb to the top of the rocks to get a view down to the meadows behind the lower lake.
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IMG_0398Upper Bonny Lake

IMG_0399Lower Bonny Lake

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IMG_0404Aneroid Mountain from the knoll.

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After exploring the knoll we headed back down to the lower lake to admire the view once more before starting back.
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IMG_0425Spotted sandpiper

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20240724_095948Elephants head

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IMG_0458White mariposa lily and buckwheat

IMG_0464Jacob’s ladder

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IMG_0479Checker-mallow and white mariposa lilies along the trail.

IMG_0482Scouler’s woolly-weed

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20240724_111946Gentians

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IMG_0517Goldenrod and yarrow

20240724_113534Nuttal’s linanthus

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IMG_0534North Fork Big Sheep Creek

The McCully Creek Trail is shown on maps as joining the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail just to the west of the North Fork Big Sheep Creek crossing but neither of us noticed any sign of its existence. That trail theoretically climbs to Big Sheep Basin then over a pass to McCully Creek where we’d hiked the previous day (post). After taking a short break at the creek crossing we hiked the 1.1-miles down to the damaged bridge and then back to the trailhead.
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IMG_0551The haze from the morning had improved now that the Sun had moved on from the east.

IMG_0556Looking down at the un-damaged bridge over a side stream.

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20240724_123722Yellow columbine

IMG_0566Big Sheep Creek.

This hike came to 9-miles with a little under 1500′ of elevation gain due to us wandering around a bit at the lake and a couple of other times along the trail.
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We drove back to our room in Enterprise and ordered pick-up from Thai Enterprise which Heather picked up shortly before a strong thunderstorm passed through. A little before 5pm we heard the first boom then the wind really picked up. Emergency vehicles were racing through town and debris was flying all over for about 15-20 minutes. The winds calmed down, but the thunder continued off and on for several more hours. We were watching fire reports closely and a new start, the Camelback Fire, was reported at 4:43pm near Highway 82 which was our route home on Friday. Interstate 84 was already closed along with several other highways due to various fires so we were starting to wonder if we would be able to get home. Fortunately the Oregon Department of Forestry was able to jump on this start quickly had managed to have it contained shortly before 10pm. We were also uncertain as to if we would be able to do our planned hike to Minam Lake the next day or if new fires would be ending our vacation early. If that were the case at least we’d gotten to see the wonderful wildflowers and Bonny Lakes which was our favorite hike of the trip thus far. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Bonny Lakes

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

McCully Basin – 07/23/2024

For the third hike of our vacation we landed on McCully Basin. While it was supposed to be slightly cooler than it had been Sunday or Monday and also than what the forecast for Wednesday was it was still going to be in the mid-80’s. McCully Basin was another hike where Sullivan describes three options: a 9.2-mile hike to a creek crossing, an 11.6-mile hike to McCully Basin, and a 12.8-mile hike to a pass. While we’ve typically tried to do as much of Sullivan’s featured hikes as possible (post) the combination of the weather and my problematic left leg had us focused on just doing as much of the hikes as we felt comfortable with. For this hike Heather set a goal of the creek crossing, and I was hoping to make it to McCully Basin if my leg, which had been feeling progressively better, wasn’t bothering me.

We again arrived at the McCully Trailhead just before 6am to avoid hiking in the hottest part of the day.
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We took a short trail which brought us to the service road for Mount Howard.
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We turned right on this road and followed it uphill for a third of a mile to a sign for the McCully Creek Trail.
IMG_9711East Peak

IMG_9713Spreading dogbane

IMG_9718The start of the McCully Creek Trail (to the left).

The trail initially follows an old roadbed before becoming single track.
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Shortly after becoming single track we came across a pair of spruce grouses.
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The trail climbed gradually through a nice forest with lupine and other wildflowers arriving at the creek crossing 4.6-miles from the trailhead.
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IMG_9753Paintbrush and pussytoes along with the lupine.

IMG_9760Pink pyrola

IMG_9761Monkshood

IMG_9762Tall bulebells

IMG_9771Penstemon

IMG_9775Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness.

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IMG_9793Yellow columbine

IMG_9797Arnica and fleabane

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IMG_9807Coiled lousewort

IMG_9815The McCully Creek crossing.

IMG_9817Elephants head at the crossing.

I was feeling good so I forded the creek and continued on while Heather stopped at the creek for a break. There was a small meadow on the far side of the creek then the trail made its steepest climb yet before leveling out again and passing through several small meadows.
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IMG_9897Paintbrush in the meadow.

IMG_9898Fleabane (or aster) in the meadow.

IMG_9823Wallowa paintbrush

IMG_9829Cusick’s speedwell

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IMG_9846The first blowdown we encountered.

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To reach the meadows in McCully Basin I needed to leave the trail and hike cross-country. Sullivan described leaving the trail just as it begins to steepen 0.6-miles from the creek crossing. It was easy enough to find where the trail steepened.
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His description was to turn right and recross McCully Creek in 200′ then climb a 60′ sandy hillside and continue another 200′ to find the first of three main meadows.
IMG_9851Heading cross-country to McCully Creek.

IMG_9854Where I recrossed the creek.

I don’t think I angled right enough when I left the trail because I found myself on a steep hillside that would have been more than a 60′ climb. Checking my GPS I could see that I was near a ridge end, so I traversed up and round it using game trails. I then dropped down to what looked like a seldom used campsite near the edge of the first meadow.
IMG_9855Heading down to a flat opening which could serve as a campsite.

IMG_9858Arriving at the first meadow.

The meadow was very wet which made it tricky to get very far out. Once I had made it far enough to get a good view I declared victory and didn’t attempt to go further.
IMG_9863Aneroid Mountain

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IMG_9869A few flowers in the meadow.

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IMG_9873Bistort

IMG_9875Shooting stars

After taking in the meadow I headed back. I stayed lower around the ridge this time but then crossed the creek above where I’d crossed earlier and climbed steeply uphill on the far side to find the McCully Creek Trail above where it steepened.
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IMG_9879Looking down toward where I left the trail to bushwack to the meadow.

I headed back to the creek crossing where Heather was waiting and then we hiked back to the car. We didn’t see any other hikers, but the butterflies were out in force.
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IMG_9884Jacob’s ladder

IMG_9888Orange agoseris

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IMG_9907Fritillary

IMG_9914Crescent

IMG_9919Bog orchid

IMG_9924Tortoiseshell

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IMG_9930Red-breasted nuthatch

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IMG_9976The gate on the service road had been opened at some point.

IMG_9977Swallowtail

My hike wound up being an even 11-miles with a little over 2000′ of elevation gain. It was a little shorter than Sullivan’s description, but he showed going 0.6-miles off-trail while I only proceeded 0.3-miles to reach the meadow. There did appear to be a path I could have followed had I wanted to walk through a lot of mud so maybe later in the year the meadow is more dried out and easier to pass through.
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We drove back to Enterprise, cleaned up and changed, then had an early dinner at Heavenly’s. There was still a red flag warning for heat and afternoon thunderstorms forecast for Wednesday so we stuck with our plan to hike to Bonny Lakes the next day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: McCully Basin