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Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Echo & Traverse Lakes (Eagle Cap Wilderness) – 08/17/2023

Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – January 2023 UpdateTo wrap up our backpacking trip in the Eagle Cap Wilderness we targeted the hike to Echo and Traverse Lakes along the West Eagle Trail. The heat during this trip had been an issue and Heather had skipped the challenging hike to Tombstone Lake on Wednesday and opted for this hike instead while I tackled Tombstone (post). She came back from her hike with some good information regarding the trail conditions including a tangle of downed trees between the lakes where she decided to turn around instead of attempting to scramble up and around it.
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The plan for our last day was for me to visit the two lakes while Heather worked on packing up and then when I returned we would hike out and head back to Salem. After breakfast I set off hoping that it wouldn’t be too hot this morning.
IMG_7581It was a little before 6am when I started up to the lakes.

I kept a steady pace for the first half mile having hiked this section of trail to the Tombstone Lake Trail junction the day before. This time at the junction I stuck to the West Eagle Trail.
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Another switchback filled climb followed as the trail made its way up to Echo Lake’s basin.
IMG_7588There was an interesting amount of sagebrush along the lower portion of this hike.

IMG_7587There was still some smoke in the air, but it was quite a bit less than it had been the day before.

IMG_7589The trail initially seemed like it is heading up this valley before it crosses over a ridge and heads for the Echo Lake basin.

IMG_7596From this trail the route of the Tombstone Lake Trail was visible.

IMG_7597Waterfall along Olive Lake’s outlet creek. One of the switchbacks along the Tombstone Lake Trail is just to the right.

IMG_7602Tasselflower brickellbush

IMG_7611There was a lot of paintbrush along the trail.

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IMG_7618Paintbrush and I believe fading false sunflowers.

IMG_7622Penstemon and paintbrush

IMG_7626Western snakeroot

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IMG_7636Pika!

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IMG_7639View across the valley.

IMG_7641The trail approaching the outlet of Echo Lake.

IMG_7642Above Echo Lake Falls which wasn’t visible from this trail.

IMG_7645Groundsel, lupine, and fireweed along the creek.

IMG_7651Sunrise in the basin.

The trail arrived at a creek crossing 1.7-miles from the Tombstone Lake Trail junction.
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The trail leveled out after crossing the creek as it passed through a meadow above a pond.
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IMG_7659The pond.

Gray sagewortGray sagewort

IMG_7663Looking back toward the valley and pond.

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Approximately 0.7-miles from the creek crossing I began to get views of Echo Lake.
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The trail stayed above the lake but near the far end I followed a spur trail down to a campsite and then the lakeshore.
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IMG_7681The spur trail.

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IMG_7684Spotted sandpiper

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I returned to the trail and continued toward Traverse Lake. The trail climbed via several switchbacks and crossed several inlet creeks with various flowers.
IMG_7691Spirea

IMG_7693A no fires beyond this point sign. Several of the lakes in the Eagle Cap Wilderness are in no campfire zones.

IMG_7699Fleabane or aster lining the trail.

IMG_7701Two types of lousewort.

IMG_7705Echo Lake hidden by the trees.

IMG_7706Pearly everlasting along the trail.

Just after the final switchback I arrived at the blowdown where Heather had turned around.
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A short steep scramble took me over the top of the downed trees and then I side hilled back down to the trail below.
IMG_7711Looking down at that trail from above the blowdown.

Back on the trail it passed through a granite boulder field then rounded a ridge and descended to Traverse Lake 1.3-miles from the side trail I’d taken to Echo Lake.
IMG_7713Bluebells

IMG_7719Echo Lake from the ridge end.

IMG_7721The Elkhorn Mountains (post)

IMG_7723Arriving at Traverse Lake.

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IMG_7728Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_7730Yellow Wallowa Indian paintbrush

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IMG_7737Columbian ground squirrel

IMG_7742Cusick’s speedwell

I headed for the East end of the lake hoping to minimize the effect of the Sun on the view of the lake. I took a use trail to a campsite on a granite outcrop.
IMG_7743Remember that no fires sign? (Sigh)

I was able to drop down to the lakeshore where I took a short break and changed into some dry socks (sweaty climb).

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After my break I headed back stopping numerous times to take in the views.
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IMG_7769Monkeyflower

IMG_7770Globe penstemon

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IMG_7780Gentians along the lake.

IMG_7789A lone paintbrush.

IMG_7794The blowdown at the far end of the boulder field.

IMG_7796White mariposa lily

IMG_7798Arnica

IMG_7799Swamp onions

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IMG_7803Echo Lake

IMG_7815The pond below on the left.

IMG_7817Passing through the meadow.

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IMG_7823Paintbrush and fireweed

IMG_7824Above Echo Lake Falls.

IMG_7825West Eagle Meadows in the valley in the distance.

IMG_7827Zoom in on West Eagle Meadows.

IMG_7828Looking down at the switchbacks.

IMG_7832Heather had also warned me about this blowdown over one of the switchbacks. There was a steep reroute that bypassed the trees.

IMG_7833There were some interesting cloud formations on the way back.

IMG_7834There was also an increase in the smoke.

IMG_7837Can you spot the pika?

IMG_7836Pika (possible the same one from earlier given the location).

IMG_7841Paintbrush and buckwheat

IMG_7846Yellow columbine

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IMG_7859Another pika at the end of this switchback.

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IMG_7862The Tombstone Lake Trail junction ahead.

I had arrived back at the trail junction a little before 10:15am and arrived back at camp at 10:23am. Heather was just finishing packing up the last of our items. I changed socks once again and got my day pack into my backpack so we could head for the car. It was 10:35am when set off for the final 2.5 miles of our trip.
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IMG_7866

IMG_7867Swallowtail photo bomb.

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IMG_7882West Eagle Creek Crossing.

IMG_7886Sphinx moth

IMG_7888Leaving the Eagle Cap Wilderness.

IMG_7895Squirrel

IMG_7898West Eagle Meadows

IMG_7900It’s hard to see here but there is a trail post at this fork with a point to the left. This is for the horse camp and not the way back to the West Eagle Meadows Trailhead.

IMG_7905The trailhead in sight.

My mileage for the day came to 12.2 with a little over 1700′ of cumulative elevation gain.

Light blue is my Tombstone Lake track

Heather spotted a couple of flowers on her hike to Echo Lake the day before that I did not notice.
20230816_081454Flax

20230816_095007Jacob’s ladder

This was a great hike to finish the trip. For me Traverse Lake was my favorite of the week followed by Tombstone, Echo, Culver, Bear and Eagle in that order. All of them were great though. The only downside to the trip was the excessive heat. These hikes would have been even more enjoyable in reasonable temperatures. The trip did allow us to check off three more of Sullivan’s featured hike (post) putting us at 83/100 for his “100 Hikes: Eastern Oregon” guidebook. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Echo & Traverse Lakes

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Tombstone Lake (Eagle Cap Wilderness) – 08/16/2023

We woke up at our campsite near West Eagle Creek early hoping to once again get a jump on the oppressive heat. I was planning on hiking from camp to Tombstone Lake and back, but Heather had yet to decide what her plans for the day were. We discussed it over breakfast, and she decided that she would instead follow the West Eagle Trail to Echo and possibly Traverse Lake. The heat had really been taking a toll on her and the shorter distance coupled with much less elevation gain seemed a smarter option all the way around. This was also one of the options for Sullivan’s Tombstone Lake featured hike so she would still be able to cross that one off the to-do-list (post).

Before we could set off we divided up our supplies making sure we each had ways to get more water (she took the pump and I took the purification tablets) and go to the bathroom if necessary. I took the Garmin inReach because let’s face it, I’m much more likely to do something stupid.

I’ll be covering my hike to Tombstone Lake for the remainder of this post. As soon as I was ready to go I said goodbye to Heather and set off on the West Eagle Trail.
IMG_7193The path from camp meeting the West Eagle Trail.

IMG_7195It was a little before 6:30am when I started.

After a brief gradual climb the trail began a series of 10 switchbacks before reaching the junction with the Tombstone Lake Trail a half mile from camp.
IMG_7196Switchbacks would be a theme for these last two days.

IMG_7200The trail junction on the ridge ahead.

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I turned onto the Tombstone Lake Trail which gently climbed at first as it traversed a slope above West Eagle Creek.
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After a quarter mile the trail crossed the creek and then began a long climb via 45 switchbacks to a basin.
IMG_7208The West Eagle Creek crossing.

IMG_7211There was a large waterfall on West Eagle Creek flowing from Echo Lake’s basin on the right.

IMG_7213Echo Lake Falls

IMG_7219There was a waterfall ahead at the end of the switchback here, but it was mostly obscured by vegitation.

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IMG_7222It was fairly smokey looking ESE in the morning.

IMG_7225Wildflowers along the trail.

IMG_7226Several switchbacks were along this tributary of West Eagle Creek. This particular spot would provide me with much needed water on my descent.

IMG_7227It looked like there might be a bit of a waterfall along this stream as well.

IMG_7230Looking up the stream at another cascade.

IMG_7233The upper portion entered an old fire scar and sunlight which heated things up quickly.

IMG_7234Northern flicker

IMG_7236Every time I thought I was at the basin the trail would switchback to find more hillside.

IMG_7240Mountain bluebird

IMG_7245Surely that is the crest.

IMG_7246It was not, up I go.

IMG_7247Smoke to the South.

IMG_7250Echo Lake across the valley.

IMG_7253Finally done with the switchbacks I could see the next climb in the distance ahead, but for now I had a bit of a reprieve.

Sullivan’s map had made the section of trail passing through the meadowed basin appear decently long, but it turned out to be just over a half mile. This more level section still managed to include a pair of switchbacks as the trail went from a smaller lower basin to a much larger meadow.
IMG_7255

IMG_7258Lousewort

IMG_7260Columbian ground squirrel

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IMG_7271Gentians, one of my favorite wildflowers.

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IMG_7275The larger meadow ahead.

We had spoken to a couple of women at the trailhead the day before, and they had mentioned that a group with llamas was heading into Tombstone Lake. I wound up passing their camp at the start of the meadow.
IMG_7283Their camp was uphill to the left. The stream here was lined with wildflowers.

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IMG_7282Lewis monkeyflower, aster (or fleabane), and fringed grass of parnassus.

IMG_7284The trail all but disappeared on the far side of the stream, but small cairns helped mark the way.

IMG_7286Cairns along the trail through the meadow.

IMG_7289Yellow Wallowa Indian paintbrush

At the far end of the meadow the trail began another series of over 20 switchbacks as it climbed to a pass. Luckily it was quite a bit cooler near the meadow and there were a lot more flowers which made this climb a little more tolerable.
IMG_7293Heading up again.

IMG_7296

IMG_7297

IMG_7301Larkspur

IMG_7305White mariposa lily

IMG_7308Looking back down into the basin.

IMG_7310False hellebore

IMG_7313Coiled lousewort

As I was climbing I heard a helicopter that sounded very nearby. I wondered if it was possibly getting water from one of the lakes for a fire, but then it flew overhead from the direction of the pass.
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It looked like it had stretcher not a bucket hanging underneath. Hopefully if anyone was in it they’re okay.

IMG_7315View of the basin headwall.

IMG_7318View back down the valley.

IMG_7320Phlox

IMG_7321Chipmunk

IMG_7325Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_7327Arriving at the pass.

IMG_7329Smokey view from the pass.

IMG_7330Tombstone Butte, Swabb Mountain, with Granite Butte behind in between, and China Cap to the right.

IMG_7331The pass at nearly 8200′.

After a short break at the pass I started my descent toward Tombstone Lake. After a pair of switchbacks the trail straightened out and traversed a hillside below a ridge for half a mile.
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The views along this section continued to improve the further I went.
IMG_7339Tombstone Lake below.

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IMG_7340Sturgill Peak

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IMG_7350Tombstone Lake is a series of connected bodies of water.

IMG_7356A phacelia.

At the end of the half mile the trail turned toward the lake and descended another series of switchbacks, 16 in all, before again straightening out and gradually descending to the lakeshore.
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IMG_7360Rosy paintbrush

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IMG_7370Finally at the lake.

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IMG_7377

IMG_7379Gentian along the lakeshore.

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IMG_7391Swamp onion along the shore of one of the smaller bodies of water.

IMG_7398Trout

After exploring the lakes and taking a short break I checked my water supply and decided that I still had half my supply left. I decided to hold off on getting more until I was on the other side of the pass and headed down. I headed back and began counting down the 16 switchbacks as I climbed.
IMG_7412

IMG_7413

All trip I had wondered if there were any pikas in the area but we hadn’t seen or heard any, so I had come to believe that maybe there weren’t any. As I passed through a granite boulder field though I spotted a brown flash carrying a clump of greens.
IMG_7416Pika!

At the top of the switchbacks I left the trail just below a gap in the ridge and climbed to see what the view might be like.
IMG_7432The Tombstone Lake Trail from the gap.

IMG_7427

IMG_7424Eagle Cap in the middle and Needle Point in the distance to the right.

IMG_7428Eagle Cap (post) is the tallest hump in the middle.

IMG_7426The East Fork Elk Creek valley below.

After checking out the view I made the half mile climb to the pass where I took another break.
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After the break I headed back down. I paused near the meadow to let the llama group pass as they headed for Tombstone Lake. I let them know that I hadn’t seen anyone else at the lake and then continued on into the meadow.
IMG_7457Starting the switchbacks down.

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IMG_7475

IMG_7480

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I spent a little more time looking at the wildflowers this time through.
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IMG_7489

IMG_7491Hawk

IMG_7497Sphinx moth visiting some Lewis monkeyflower

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IMG_7506Some nice paintbrush

IMG_7514Clumps of gentians

IMG_7517Gentians

IMG_7520Swamp onion

IMG_7523Leaving the basins to start the giant set of switchbacks down.

The smoke had become less of an issue on the way down allowing me to see Echo Lake a little more clearly.
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IMG_7526

IMG_7537

I ran out of water in my bladder and was down to half a hydro flask when I arrived at the stream along the switchbacks, so I stepped off the trail and took the opportunity to refill the bladder and use the Iodine tablets.
IMG_7540This little cascade was perfect for filling the bladder.

From my spot along the stream I could see some of the West Eagle Trail on the far hillside, so I started looking for Heather. It took a few minutes, but I eventually spotted her descending her own set of switchbacks.
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After the first 5 minutes were up I shook the bladder then started another 30-minute timer and started hiking again.
IMG_7548Echo Lake Falls straight ahead.

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IMG_7555Recrossing West Eagle Creek.

IMG_7558One last look up at where I’d come from.

My timer went off just before arriving at the junction with the West Eagle Trail where I ran into Heather who was taking a short break.
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We headed back to camp together.
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IMG_7564Small unnamed waterfall on an unnamed creek.

It was again way too hot at camp so after we rested for a bit we headed to the creek to find some shade and soak are feet in the cold water. After we’d finally cooled down a bit we replenished our water supplies and returned to camp for dinner and bed.
IMG_7573Sphinx moth at camp.

IMG_7580Not sure what type of caterpillar this is but it was pretty. It was on the same larkspur the sphinx moth was visiting.

IMG_7577While we don’t intentionally feed the wildlife this green comma seemed to like the sweaty socks.

The hike to Tombstone Lake wound up being 13.3 miles with 3000′ of elevation gain, and a whole lot of switchbacking.

Heather had made a good choice by passing on this one given the heat, but it was a beautiful hike. She had really enjoyed her hike which we’ll cover in the next post, and she had some helpful information for me regarding trail conditions for my outing the next morning. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Tombstone Lake

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Bear Lake and West Eagle Meadows (Eagle Cap Wilderness)- 08/15/2023

For the second day of our backpacking trip we had originally planned on hiking up to Bear Lake from our campsite at Eagle Creek Meadow then returning to camp to pack up and move closer to the Bench Trail. After reestablishing camp we would then take the Bench Trail up to Arrow Lake in the afternoon/evening. We had spotted a couple of workable campsites on our way by the day before (post), but Heather had already decided by the end of that day that she would be skipping the out-and-back to Arrow Lake due to the heat.

As we set off for Bear Lake at 6:15am I was still considering attempting to reach Arrow Lake. It had actually been cool enough at camp that morning for me to put on my beanie and thicker gloves.
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IMG_6901Doe on the other side of Eagle Creek.

From our campsite we made our way to the Lookingglass Trail and the ford of Eagle Creek. We’d seen some hikers crossing the ford the day before. They had all used their water shoes for the ford and Heather planned on doing the same. I don’t have a pair myself, so I had the choice of fording in my trail runners or making an attempt to cross on logs/rocks. I chose to try and keep my feet dry.
IMG_6904I started out on the small logs shown here.

Somehow I managed to make it across and after Heather changed into her hiking boots we started uphill.
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We made it approximately 100 yards before realizing that I had left my car key and wallet in the tent and Heather had left her phone. I turned around and headed back to retrieve the forgotten items. After two more dry crossings I caught back up to Heather and we continued uphill toward a junction with the Bear Lake Trail.
IMG_6909Here comes the Sun.

IMG_6911Shade for us for now though.

IMG_6917The junction up ahead.

IMG_6918We arrived at the junction roughly three quarters of a mile and 650′ up from camp.

We turned onto the Bear Lake Trail which continued to climb but more gradually. After another third of a mile we took a side trail toward Culver Lake. The first trail we tried led to a marsh where a doe was having her breakfast.
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IMG_6925Not many mushrooms of fungi along the trails but we spotted a few along this trail.

20230815_072046Globe penstemon

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The lake proved unreachable from this first trail so we returned to the Bear Lake Trail and quickly found another side trail which did lead to Culver Lake.
IMG_6936Cairn marking the trail to Culver Lake.

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IMG_6941Snow patch along Culver Lake.

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We took a break at the lake. It was already getting warm and I finally decided that I was not going to be attempting the 2000′ climb to Arrow Lake later in the day. It was not necessary in order for us to check off any featured hikes and I didn’t want to risk overexerting myself when we had three more lakes to visit over the next couple of days. Our new plan was to return to camp after visiting Bear Lake, pack up and hike out, then drive to the West Eagle Meadows Trailhead. There we could either camp at the West Eagle Meadow Campground, or hike in 3ish miles and hope to find a suitable campsite. We would make our choice later on when we had a better idea of how we were feeling.

After admiring the lake we returned to the Bear Lake Trail which gained another 200 plus feet before dropping to Bear Lake after half a mile.
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IMG_6962Needle Point from the trail.

20230815_082029Nuttall’s linanthus

IMG_6966Arrow Lake is somewhere up in the mountains on the other side of the valley.

IMG_6967View down the Eagle Creek Valley.

IMG_6968Rock Creek Butte in the Elkhorns (post).

IMG_6970Heading down.

IMG_6973Bear Lake

We made our way a little way around Bear Lake to see it from some different angles.
IMG_6978Mountain heather.

IMG_6980Cusick’s speedwell

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IMG_6990Aster and swamp onion

IMG_6996Arnica and possibly alpine leafybract aster.

IMG_6997A bunch of globe penstemon.

IMG_6999Meadow at the eastern end of Bear Lake.

IMG_7003Needle Point from Bear Lake.

We scrambled up some granite to a viewpoint above the lake.
IMG_7018Looking toward Eagle Lake in the basin behind and right of Needle Point.

IMG_7020Eagle Creek is down there somewhere.

IMG_7023Eagle Creek Meadow. The Main Eagle Trail can be seen crossing the granite slope at the far end of the meadow.

We headed back down toward camp prepared to pack up and hike out.
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IMG_7029Allum root

20230815_092739White mariposa lily

IMG_7039The Sun had reached the valley by the time we were nearing Eagle Creek.

IMG_7040The Eagle Creek crossing going the other direction. I’m happy (and amazed) to report that I managed a fourth dry crossing.

We packed up camp and replenished our water supply before setting off for the trailhead. It was roughly 4.5 miles back to the car where the temperature was (according to the car) 91 degrees.
IMG_7046Lupin along Eagle Creek where we topped off our water.

IMG_7050Hummingbird Mountain

IMG_7055Mountain coyote mint

IMG_7058Falls on the far side of the valley. Probably the outlet creek of Lookingglass Lake.

IMG_7061Nearing the Bench Trail junction.

IMG_7064Copper Creek Falls from the trail.

IMG_7067Small cascade along the trail.

IMG_7071Wallflower, this was the only one we spotted all trip.

IMG_7085Damaged footbridge over Eagle Creek.

IMG_7095Buck crossing the trail.

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IMG_7101Swallowtail on nettle-leaf giant hyssop.

IMG_7103Bridge over Eagle Creek.

I arrived at the large bridge over Eagle Creek first and decided to bushwack up the creek a short distance to what turned out to be a really nice waterfall.
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IMG_7109

IMG_7117Back at the Main Eagle Trailhead.

It was 2pm when we arrived back at the car and headed for the West Eagle Meadows Trailhead. Sullivan had mentioned that the final 3.2 miles were bumpy and very slow, but it appeared that the Forest Service had been working on it and we only had a few smaller sections of rough 10mph road.

It felt every bit of 91 when we arrived at the trailhead where we searched for shaded places to sit.
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We had decided not to spend the night in the campground but rather to make the 3ish mile hike to a crossing of West Eagle Creek where we hoped we’d find a campsite. Our latest version of the plan for the rest of our trip was to cut it a day short. Hiking in the 3ish miles now would leave a challenging out-and-back to Tombstone Lake for Wednesday then a 9.5-mile out-and-back to Echo and Traverse Lakes on Thursday which could be combined with the 3ish-mile hike back to the trailhead on Thursday allowing us to hopefully get home sometime Thursday evening.

We stuck around the trailhead long enough to cook an early dinner then set off a little after 4:30pm in search of a campsite.
IMG_7119West Eagle Trail

The West Eagle Trail passed a series of walk-in tent campsites along West Eagle Meadows before entering the forest.
IMG_7120One of the campsites.

IMG_7124Mule Peak behind to the right and Wolf Point furthest back center.

IMG_7125Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_7127Painted lady on the hyssop.

IMG_7131Frittilary butterfly

IMG_7132Approaching the trees.

IMG_7138The decommissioned Fake Creek Trail to the right at the 0.6-mile mark.

IMG_7141Fake Creek crossing.

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IMG_7147Squirrel

IMG_7149Unnamed creek crossing.

IMG_7151Lewis monkeyflower

IMG_7154Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness at West Eagle Creek.

IMG_7156West Eagle Creek Crossing. I almost made it across this one dry footed too but one of the rocks on the far side was unstable causing me to drag my right toe in the creek.

IMG_7160Trail maintenance.

Beyond the creek crossing the trail passed through a series of small meadows as it climbed to the second crossing of West Eagle Creek.
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20230815_172701Coneflower

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IMG_7178Reentering the trees after passing through a meadow.

IMG_7183West Eagle Creek

IMG_7186Another small meadow.

IMG_7192West Eagle Creek near the second crossing.

We were starting to worry that we might not find a decent camp site but there was one workable site on the near side of the creek. I took my pack off there and crossed the creek to see if there was anything better on the far side and was happy to find a very nice established site not far up the trail.
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The campsite was approximately 2.5-miles from the trailhead which would add about a mile to each of the remaining days, but we could tell by the topo maps that there wasn’t likely to be another suitable campsite. We were also pooped and had no desire to hike any further with our full packs. It was close to 6:30pm by the time we had camp set up then we refilled our water once again before heading to bed.

The hike to Bear Lake and back to the Main Eagle Trailhead had been 9.3-miles with 1250′ of elevation gain and we wound up doing close to another 3-miles and 580′ of elevation gain from the West Eagle Meadows Trailhead by the time we were done for the day.

West Eagle Meadows track to the left in red. Bear Lake track to the right in red.

The plan for the next day was still a bit up in the air. I knew I would be heading for Tombstone Lake, but Heather was deciding between heading toward Tombstone Lake or Echo and Traverse Lakes. The hike to Tombstone Lake required approximately 3000′ of cumulative elevation gain (2200′ if she turned back at the pass above the lake), while the hike to Traverse Lake gained about half as much elevation and was nearly 3.5-miles shorter. She would decide in the morning based on how she felt after another night’s sleep. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Bear Lake