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Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

MacDuff Mountain – 06/15/2024

Seemingly all of the upcoming hikes I have slated for June (this year and in the future) involve viewpoints, but after a week of mostly blue skies and warm weather rain showers arrived just in time for our day off. Our original plan had been a two-stop day near McKeznie Bridge, first to revisit Castle Rock where we’d missed the view in 2017 (post) due to clouds, then hike to MacDuff Mountain for the first time. When I checked Friday morning the forecast for this area called for a 60% chance of showers mainly before 11am, less than a tenth of an inch of precipitation, and partly sunny skies. I checked some other areas and unless we were willing to drive to Central Oregon none looked better than this.

We decided to save Castle Rock for another (sunnier) day and drove straight to the O’Leary/Castle Rock Trailhead.
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The hike to MacDuff Mountain was brought to our attention by Hike Oregon who is a great resource for hiking and backpacking information and tips. The O’Leary Mountain Trail passes just below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain on its way to joining the 22.8-mile long Olallie Trail. This trail and a portion of the Olallie Trail are open to mountain bikes as well as hiking. The out-and-back to MacDuff Mountain is approximately 10.5 miles with over 2700′ of elevation gain. The well graded trail makes the climb feel like less than that number though.

From the trailhead we crossed FR 411 to a pointer for the Castle Rock and O’Leary Trails.
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We quickly arrived at a junction where the Castle Rock Trail headed left.
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From this junction it is approximately 5 miles to the summit of Castle Rock. We wouldn’t have gone that route even if we had stuck to the original plan to visit it first. We would have parked at the Castle Rock Trailhead which is only 1.2-miles from that peak’s summit.

We stayed straight on the O’Leary Trail and quickly became soaked by the damp vegetation along the trail.
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IMG_6576There were some nice rhododendron blooms along the trail.

It was hard to tell if it was actually raining or if the low clouds/fog was just leaving the trees and plants damp but either way drops were falling from overhead as we climbed a series of switchbacks. These led us past some nice rock formations in the first mile and a half.
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IMG_6580Spotted coralroot

IMG_6581The first of three crossings of FR 411, this is at the 0.4-mile mark.

IMG_6585Inside-out flower

IMG_6589Starflower

IMG_6590Yellowleaf iris

IMG_6595The trail is narrow at times but well maintiained.

IMG_6596Forest filled with rhododendron.

IMG_6597A closer look at the rhodies.

IMG_6612There were several madrones in the forest.

IMG_6618Little prince’s pine

IMG_6624Sugar sticks

IMG_6628There were a few places where we might have had a view if not for the clouds.

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IMG_6642Stonecrop

IMG_6643Passing below some of the rock formations.

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IMG_6662Anemones

IMG_6666Bleeding heart

The switchbacks became much rarer beyond the rock formations as the trail traversed the hillside below a ridgeline, and occasionally on the ridge.
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IMG_6679The first small meadow that the trail passed through was full of blue-eyed Mary.

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IMG_6689Northern phlox

IMG_6692Coming up on another small meadow.

IMG_6697Subalpine mariposa lily

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IMG_6708Beargrass

A little under three miles from the trailhead the trail arrived at FR 411 for the second time.
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We were briefly confused here because the Forest Service map showed the trail continuing straight across the road here, and the description from Hike Oregon was that you would cross the road here. There was no sign of the trail to be seen though. We wandered back and forth a bit then based on the topography decided that any continuation of the trail would be further up the road (to the right when arriving at the road). We walked approximately 100 yards to spot the continuation of the trail through the fog.
IMG_6715The fog didn’t help with our trying to find the trail. There was enough room along this section of road that parking and starting the hike from here would be possible.

IMG_6716Back on trail.

The trail made one of its steepest climbs from the road here then after briefly leveling out dropped back down to the road again.
IMG_6719Honeysuckle

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IMG_6723More northern phlox

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IMG_6730This meadow was full of bluehead gilia.

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IMG_6738The trail dropped steeply as it rejoined FR 411.

Another brief road walk followed before the trail split off to the right at a pointer.
IMG_6739There was no parking room that we could see near this area.

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It was only about a quarter of a mile between the two road crossings and the steep up and down had us questioning if it wouldn’t have been better just to stay on the road, but then we’d have missed the meadow of bluehead gilia.

The trail continued its gradual but steady climb for two more miles before arriving below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.
IMG_6742Vanilla leaf along the trail.

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IMG_6751Bunchberry

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IMG_6755Trillium

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IMG_6760We stopped when we spotted something in the trail ahead that looked like it might be an animal. Using the camera to zoom we realized it was a grouse hen with her little chicks.

IMG_6762The hen got up and then the chicks headed into the underbrush. We felt bad having disturbed them, but once they’d moved, we calmly passed by while momma came back to gather her little ones.

IMG_6764This was all beargrass, but none of the plants in this area appeared to be planning on blooming this year.

Hermit thrushHermit thrush

IMG_6777The rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.

Our hopes that the clouds might break up or lift before our arrival at MacDuff Mountain were in vain. It was a little past 11am but partly sunny skies were a distant dream. While there wouldn’t be any mountain views today the wildflowers blooming on the rocks made for a worthy destination on their own.
IMG_6788A lot of larkspur.

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IMG_6783Subalpine mariposa lilies

IMG_6790Paintbrush and buckwheat

IMG_6792Cinquefoil

IMG_6794A penstemon

Before going up to the actual summit I passed beneath and back into the forest following the trail until it began to descend.
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There is no trail to the summit, so I went up cross country along the forest border then across to a 1931 memorial plaque at the top.
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IMG_6810The view from the top.

IMG_6811No blue sky that way.

IMG_6812No sign of clearing this way either.

IMG_6805Cliff beardtongue

IMG_6813Woodland-stars

IMG_6816Paintbrush

We didn’t stay at the summit long. There was a slight breeze and that combined with the damp conditions made things chilly. We were not as prepared for the chilly conditions as we probably should have been, but even after 14 years of hiking we occasionally do dumb stuff. We headed back down and along the way encountered the only other person we’d see all day, another hiker making good time going uphill. We got even wetter when an actual rain shower passed over (it was chunky rain and we both thought there might have been a little snow mixed in) before finally got to see at least a little blue sky.
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IMG_6824Hey look, there is another ridge over there.

IMG_6831Ookow just starting to open up.

IMG_6836Steep climb or road walk? We chose the trail again on the way back.

IMG_6837A wetter road now thanks to the rain shower.

IMG_6841Blue sky, it does exist.

IMG_6846The clouds got a late start but eventually started lifting.

IMG_6850From this angle it looks like a statue.

IMG_6852Looking down from some of the switchbacks.

IMG_6855Cougar Reservoir

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IMG_6863Pyrola

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IMG_6875Sunlight!

Both of our GPS units experienced technical difficulties. Mine randomly decided I was going a different direction that wound up putting us almost 7 miles north of our actual position, and Heather’s track couldn’t be imported to Basecamp. From what I could piece together the hike was approximately 11.2 miles but would have been closer to 10.5 had I not gone past the summit.
Screenshot 2024-06-15 171040I’ve never seen a track this far off.

Screenshot 2024-06-16 095937The track after manually editing it.

Despite the lack of views and not being prepared for it to be quite that chilly this was a good hike. The trail was in great condition with nice forest and wildflowers throughout. It may be a busier trail on nicer weekend days, but it didn’t appear that it sees a lot of usage regardless. Happy Trails!

Flickr: MacDuff Mountain

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Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Castle Rock

We continue to have to swap out our originally scheduled hikes due to the above normal snow levels and late melt this year. Our most recent hike to Castle Rock was the result of one such switch. Castle Rock it the site of a former lookout tower atop a 3808′ rocky outcrop. Castle Rock is located near the McKenzie River off Highway 126 approximately 5 miles beyond Blue River. There are several possible trailheads that can be used to reach the lookout site including an option at the end of Road 480 that would make the hike less than three miles. For our visit we chose to begin at the King Castle Trailhead. A map at this trailhead showed the entire O’Leary Trail Complex.
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The trails in the area are open to mountain bikes and we did see a handful of riders but not until we were well into our descent. The King Castle Trail was in excellent shape as it passed through the forest.
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There were lots of woodland flowers in bloom.
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Star flower and queen’s cup

IMG_1642Foam Flower

IMG_1629Inside-out Flower

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Anemone

IMG_1635Wild Ginger

2017-06-03 12.25.06 Wintergreen

IMG_1648 Northern Phlox

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Striped coralroot

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Spotted coralroot

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Rhododendron

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Wild rose

The trail climbed approximately 1500′ in almost 4 miles to a crossing of Road 480.
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The trail continued on the far side of the road where it climbed for a bit before dropping slightly to a junction with the Castle Rock Trail.
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A dogwood tree was in full bloom near this junction.
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We turned right onto the Castle Rock Trail which climbed for another half mile to a junction with a trail from the upper trailhead along Road 480.
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None of the climb had seemed particularly steep considering we knew we had a total of 2600′ to gain from the trailhead. We were expecting the final mile to seem quite a bit steeper but the trail made great use of switchbacks leaving the final 700′ to feel only slightly harder than the earlier 1900′. The flowers along the final mile had changed from those we had seen at the lower elevations. Here fairy slippers and vanilla leaf were still blooming.
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It had been an overcast morning and now we were climbing up into the clouds.
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It was cool but not cold. Although, for a rubber boa, that we spotted next to a tree along the trail, it was way to chilly.
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The trail switchbacked up to a meadow near some rocky cliffs where we found a surprisingly nice display of wildflowers.
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Bindweed

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A saxifrage

IMG_1559Cat’s ear lilies

2017-06-03 10.40.16Annual agoseris

IMG_1574Prairie star and plectritis

IMG_1583Monkeyflower

IMG_1581Butterflies on buckwheat

IMG_1585 Ookow getting ready to bloom

2017-06-03 10.51.14Yellowleaf iris

2017-06-03 10.49.54Sorrel

At the top of the meadow there was a viewpoint to the NE (with no view today) where several other flowers stood out.
2017-06-03 10.52.14Parsley

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Larkspur

IMG_1525Penstemon

IMG_1567Paintbrush

The trail then climbed past some black oaks, chinkapin trees and a madrone to the old lookout site.
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With the clouds surrounding us we weren’t going to be getting a view of the Three Sisters so we explored the rocks looking for more wildflowers before taking a break at the lookout site.
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After resting and eating lunch, we headed back down through the little meadow. Here we noticed that there were little beetles on one particular type of plant.
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Neither of us had noticed them on the way up but they were on every one of those plants. It’s amazing how much we miss even when we think we are paying close attention. 🙂

Another example of that were the many candy sticks we noticed on the way back to the car. We had seen one a little ways off the trail on our way up to Castle Rock, but on the return trip we noticed at least a dozen others popping up along the trail.
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The sun came out near the end of our hike leaving us to wonder if there would be a view at the top in the afternoon. One of the few drawbacks of starting first thing in the morning is that we often reach viewpoints before the morning clouds have burned off.
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Even without the view though this had been a really nice 12.2 mile hike. It’s certainly one that we’d do again, especially since we didn’t get the view, and given it’s relatively low elevation it’s a good option when there is still snow higher up.
Happy Trails!

Flickr: Castle Rock