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Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

MacDuff Mountain – 06/15/2024

Seemingly all of the upcoming hikes I have slated for June (this year and in the future) involve viewpoints, but after a week of mostly blue skies and warm weather rain showers arrived just in time for our day off. Our original plan had been a two-stop day near McKeznie Bridge, first to revisit Castle Rock where we’d missed the view in 2017 (post) due to clouds, then hike to MacDuff Mountain for the first time. When I checked Friday morning the forecast for this area called for a 60% chance of showers mainly before 11am, less than a tenth of an inch of precipitation, and partly sunny skies. I checked some other areas and unless we were willing to drive to Central Oregon none looked better than this.

We decided to save Castle Rock for another (sunnier) day and drove straight to the O’Leary/Castle Rock Trailhead.
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The hike to MacDuff Mountain was brought to our attention by Hike Oregon who is a great resource for hiking and backpacking information and tips. The O’Leary Mountain Trail passes just below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain on its way to joining the 22.8-mile long Olallie Trail. This trail and a portion of the Olallie Trail are open to mountain bikes as well as hiking. The out-and-back to MacDuff Mountain is approximately 10.5 miles with over 2700′ of elevation gain. The well graded trail makes the climb feel like less than that number though.

From the trailhead we crossed FR 411 to a pointer for the Castle Rock and O’Leary Trails.
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We quickly arrived at a junction where the Castle Rock Trail headed left.
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From this junction it is approximately 5 miles to the summit of Castle Rock. We wouldn’t have gone that route even if we had stuck to the original plan to visit it first. We would have parked at the Castle Rock Trailhead which is only 1.2-miles from that peak’s summit.

We stayed straight on the O’Leary Trail and quickly became soaked by the damp vegetation along the trail.
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IMG_6576There were some nice rhododendron blooms along the trail.

It was hard to tell if it was actually raining or if the low clouds/fog was just leaving the trees and plants damp but either way drops were falling from overhead as we climbed a series of switchbacks. These led us past some nice rock formations in the first mile and a half.
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IMG_6580Spotted coralroot

IMG_6581The first of three crossings of FR 411, this is at the 0.4-mile mark.

IMG_6585Inside-out flower

IMG_6589Starflower

IMG_6590Yellowleaf iris

IMG_6595The trail is narrow at times but well maintiained.

IMG_6596Forest filled with rhododendron.

IMG_6597A closer look at the rhodies.

IMG_6612There were several madrones in the forest.

IMG_6618Little prince’s pine

IMG_6624Sugar sticks

IMG_6628There were a few places where we might have had a view if not for the clouds.

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IMG_6643Passing below some of the rock formations.

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The switchbacks became much rarer beyond the rock formations as the trail traversed the hillside below a ridgeline, and occasionally on the ridge.
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IMG_6679The first small meadow that the trail passed through was full of blue-eyed Mary.

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IMG_6689Northern phlox

IMG_6692Coming up on another small meadow.

IMG_6697Subalpine mariposa lily

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A little under three miles from the trailhead the trail arrived at FR 411 for the second time.
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We were briefly confused here because the Forest Service map showed the trail continuing straight across the road here, and the description from Hike Oregon was that you would cross the road here. There was no sign of the trail to be seen though. We wandered back and forth a bit then based on the topography decided that any continuation of the trail would be further up the road (to the right when arriving at the road). We walked approximately 100 yards to spot the continuation of the trail through the fog.
IMG_6715The fog didn’t help with our trying to find the trail. There was enough room along this section of road that parking and starting the hike from here would be possible.

IMG_6716Back on trail.

The trail made one of its steepest climbs from the road here then after briefly leveling out dropped back down to the road again.
IMG_6719Honeysuckle

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IMG_6723More northern phlox

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IMG_6730This meadow was full of bluehead gilia.

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IMG_6738The trail dropped steeply as it rejoined FR 411.

Another brief road walk followed before the trail split off to the right at a pointer.
IMG_6739There was no parking room that we could see near this area.

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It was only about a quarter of a mile between the two road crossings and the steep up and down had us questioning if it wouldn’t have been better just to stay on the road, but then we’d have missed the meadow of bluehead gilia.

The trail continued its gradual but steady climb for two more miles before arriving below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.
IMG_6742Vanilla leaf along the trail.

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IMG_6751Bunchberry

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IMG_6755Trillium

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IMG_6760We stopped when we spotted something in the trail ahead that looked like it might be an animal. Using the camera to zoom we realized it was a grouse hen with her little chicks.

IMG_6762The hen got up and then the chicks headed into the underbrush. We felt bad having disturbed them, but once they’d moved, we calmly passed by while momma came back to gather her little ones.

IMG_6764This was all beargrass, but none of the plants in this area appeared to be planning on blooming this year.

Hermit thrushHermit thrush

IMG_6777The rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.

Our hopes that the clouds might break up or lift before our arrival at MacDuff Mountain were in vain. It was a little past 11am but partly sunny skies were a distant dream. While there wouldn’t be any mountain views today the wildflowers blooming on the rocks made for a worthy destination on their own.
IMG_6788A lot of larkspur.

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IMG_6783Subalpine mariposa lilies

IMG_6790Paintbrush and buckwheat

IMG_6792Cinquefoil

IMG_6794A penstemon

Before going up to the actual summit I passed beneath and back into the forest following the trail until it began to descend.
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There is no trail to the summit, so I went up cross country along the forest border then across to a 1931 memorial plaque at the top.
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IMG_6810The view from the top.

IMG_6811No blue sky that way.

IMG_6812No sign of clearing this way either.

IMG_6805Cliff beardtongue

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We didn’t stay at the summit long. There was a slight breeze and that combined with the damp conditions made things chilly. We were not as prepared for the chilly conditions as we probably should have been, but even after 14 years of hiking we occasionally do dumb stuff. We headed back down and along the way encountered the only other person we’d see all day, another hiker making good time going uphill. We got even wetter when an actual rain shower passed over (it was chunky rain and we both thought there might have been a little snow mixed in) before finally got to see at least a little blue sky.
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IMG_6824Hey look, there is another ridge over there.

IMG_6831Ookow just starting to open up.

IMG_6836Steep climb or road walk? We chose the trail again on the way back.

IMG_6837A wetter road now thanks to the rain shower.

IMG_6841Blue sky, it does exist.

IMG_6846The clouds got a late start but eventually started lifting.

IMG_6850From this angle it looks like a statue.

IMG_6852Looking down from some of the switchbacks.

IMG_6855Cougar Reservoir

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IMG_6863Pyrola

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IMG_6875Sunlight!

Both of our GPS units experienced technical difficulties. Mine randomly decided I was going a different direction that wound up putting us almost 7 miles north of our actual position, and Heather’s track couldn’t be imported to Basecamp. From what I could piece together the hike was approximately 11.2 miles but would have been closer to 10.5 had I not gone past the summit.
Screenshot 2024-06-15 171040I’ve never seen a track this far off.

Screenshot 2024-06-16 095937The track after manually editing it.

Despite the lack of views and not being prepared for it to be quite that chilly this was a good hike. The trail was in great condition with nice forest and wildflowers throughout. It may be a busier trail on nicer weekend days, but it didn’t appear that it sees a lot of usage regardless. Happy Trails!

Flickr: MacDuff Mountain

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Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Horsepasture Mountain

After our last two hikes coming from Matt Reeder’s 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region we went back to work on our goal of completing all of the featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s 100 Hikes guidebooks. We are just over 75% through his 100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades 4th edition and had our eyes set on checking off one more with a visit to the former lookout site atop Horsepasture Mountain.

The hike up Horsepasture Mountain provided a bit of a logistical challenge for a couple of reasons. First is our self imposed guideline of trying not to spend more time in the car than we do on the trail and the 1.4 mile length of the Horsepasture Mountain Trail meant we’d need to come up with some additional trail time. The second issue was the continued closure of a section of Forest Road 1993 which adds nearly 45 minutes to the drive to the Horsepasture Trailhead. Prior to the closure the drive to that trailhead would still have been over two and a half hours but with the detour Google put the time at three hours and fifteen minutes. We also have a rule against driving over three hours to any trailheads for day hikes so I began looking for alternatives. A little online research led me to a solution, the Saddle Trail which is part of the O’Leary Trail Complex.

The trail begins at the East Fork Upper Trailhead which brought the drive time from Salem under two and half hours. We parked at a small pullout on the right side of FR 1993 across from the signed Saddle Trail.
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There was a caution sign on the post regarding a burn area but that was referencing portions of the O’Leary Trail Complex burned in 2017 which did not include either the Saddle Trail or the Horsepasture Mountain Trail. We were facing a nearly 1700′ climb over the next two miles to a junction at Horsepasture Saddle. Luckily the trail was well graded and in good shape as it switchbacked up through a green forest.
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Wildflowers in the forest included a few washington lilies, penstemon, northern phlox and tiger lilies along with the typical group of white flowers.
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As far as markers went on this trail it did cross closed Forest Road 590 after .4 miles and passed a single rocky viewpoint near the 1.75 mile mark.
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Near its end the Saddle Trail passed through a small meadow with a few remaining wildflowers.
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The trail ended at a signed three way junction with the Olallie Trail.
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Here we turned right passing through thimbleberry bushes for a little over 100 yards to a four-way junction.
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We turned onto the Horsepasture Mountain Trail which climbed gradually at first.
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Flowers here included lupine, lousewort, wallflower, valerian, and fleabane.
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After nearly three quarters of a mile of gradual climbing the trail steepened as it climbed through meadows with beargrass. It wasn’t quite the beargrass display we had been hoping for but there were some nice blooms along the way.
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Other flowers in these meadows included coneflower, owls clover, and cat’s ear lilies.
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After 1.2 miles the Horsepasture Mountain Trail began to climb the mountain’s south side through a drier wildflower meadow.
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The Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor were visible to the east as was snowy Diamond Peak to the south.
IMG_8304Middle Sister

IMG_8323Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor

IMG_8326Diamond Peak

There was a nice variety of wildflowers on display.
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A large cairn and remains of the old lookout marked the summit.
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The view from the summit included Cascade peaks from Mt. Hood to the barely visible tip of Mt. Thielsen.
IMG_8337Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Washington.

IMG_8381The Three Sisters (with the top of Broken Top over South Sister’s southern shoulder) and Mt. Bachelor.

IMG_8345Diamond Peak(Mt. Thielsen is out there too)

IMG_8385Cowhorn Mountain on the left and the tip of Mt. Thielsen to the right.

We took a nice long break at the summit enjoying the views and the flowers. Birds and insects were our only company.
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The only negative was seeing the fire scars left in the Three Sisters Wilderness from the awful 2017 fire season. We returned the way we’d come passing two other sets of hikers making their way up the Horsepasture Mountain Trail. We also ran into a family of grouse. A single chick flew across the trail then mama landed in the trail.
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Her display of feathers and her posturing let us know that she had other chicks in the area so we stopped and waited until two more flew across the trail.
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She then flew up into a tree to let us pass. The remainder of the hike was uneventful as we descended the Saddle Trail back to the trailhead. The seven mile hike and extended stay on the summit kept us within our driving to hiking time ratio but more importantly the hike had been really nice. Good views and wildflowers combined with solitude made for another great day in the Willamette National Forest. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Horsepasture Mountain

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Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Castle Rock

We continue to have to swap out our originally scheduled hikes due to the above normal snow levels and late melt this year. Our most recent hike to Castle Rock was the result of one such switch. Castle Rock it the site of a former lookout tower atop a 3808′ rocky outcrop. Castle Rock is located near the McKenzie River off Highway 126 approximately 5 miles beyond Blue River. There are several possible trailheads that can be used to reach the lookout site including an option at the end of Road 480 that would make the hike less than three miles. For our visit we chose to begin at the King Castle Trailhead. A map at this trailhead showed the entire O’Leary Trail Complex.
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The trails in the area are open to mountain bikes and we did see a handful of riders but not until we were well into our descent. The King Castle Trail was in excellent shape as it passed through the forest.
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There were lots of woodland flowers in bloom.
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Star flower and queen’s cup

IMG_1642Foam Flower

IMG_1629Inside-out Flower

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Anemone

IMG_1635Wild Ginger

2017-06-03 12.25.06 Wintergreen

IMG_1648 Northern Phlox

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Striped coralroot

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Spotted coralroot

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Rhododendron

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Wild rose

The trail climbed approximately 1500′ in almost 4 miles to a crossing of Road 480.
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The trail continued on the far side of the road where it climbed for a bit before dropping slightly to a junction with the Castle Rock Trail.
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A dogwood tree was in full bloom near this junction.
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We turned right onto the Castle Rock Trail which climbed for another half mile to a junction with a trail from the upper trailhead along Road 480.
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None of the climb had seemed particularly steep considering we knew we had a total of 2600′ to gain from the trailhead. We were expecting the final mile to seem quite a bit steeper but the trail made great use of switchbacks leaving the final 700′ to feel only slightly harder than the earlier 1900′. The flowers along the final mile had changed from those we had seen at the lower elevations. Here fairy slippers and vanilla leaf were still blooming.
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It had been an overcast morning and now we were climbing up into the clouds.
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It was cool but not cold. Although, for a rubber boa, that we spotted next to a tree along the trail, it was way to chilly.
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The trail switchbacked up to a meadow near some rocky cliffs where we found a surprisingly nice display of wildflowers.
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Bindweed

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A saxifrage

IMG_1559Cat’s ear lilies

2017-06-03 10.40.16Annual agoseris

IMG_1574Prairie star and plectritis

IMG_1583Monkeyflower

IMG_1581Butterflies on buckwheat

IMG_1585 Ookow getting ready to bloom

2017-06-03 10.51.14Yellowleaf iris

2017-06-03 10.49.54Sorrel

At the top of the meadow there was a viewpoint to the NE (with no view today) where several other flowers stood out.
2017-06-03 10.52.14Parsley

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Larkspur

IMG_1525Penstemon

IMG_1567Paintbrush

The trail then climbed past some black oaks, chinkapin trees and a madrone to the old lookout site.
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With the clouds surrounding us we weren’t going to be getting a view of the Three Sisters so we explored the rocks looking for more wildflowers before taking a break at the lookout site.
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After resting and eating lunch, we headed back down through the little meadow. Here we noticed that there were little beetles on one particular type of plant.
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Neither of us had noticed them on the way up but they were on every one of those plants. It’s amazing how much we miss even when we think we are paying close attention. 🙂

Another example of that were the many candy sticks we noticed on the way back to the car. We had seen one a little ways off the trail on our way up to Castle Rock, but on the return trip we noticed at least a dozen others popping up along the trail.
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The sun came out near the end of our hike leaving us to wonder if there would be a view at the top in the afternoon. One of the few drawbacks of starting first thing in the morning is that we often reach viewpoints before the morning clouds have burned off.
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Even without the view though this had been a really nice 12.2 mile hike. It’s certainly one that we’d do again, especially since we didn’t get the view, and given it’s relatively low elevation it’s a good option when there is still snow higher up.
Happy Trails!

Flickr: Castle Rock