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Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Steens Mountain Trip report

Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge – 09/03/2023

After spending the night in Burns it was time for the featured hike that had brought us here. Threemile Canyon was a recent edition as a featured hike after switching editions on our quest to finish the 100 featured hikes in each of William L. Sullivans guidebooks (post). We got a little later start than typical for us opting to stick around long enough to take advantage of the 6am full breakfast at our motel. After eating we made the hour and a half drive South on Highway 205 (County Road 202) to the Threemile Creek Trailhead.
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We’d driven through a couple of rain showers but we had a bit of blue sky overhead at the trailhead (for now).
IMG_8380Beatys Butte to the SW.

IMG_8381Rain to the SW as well.

We followed the Threemile Creek Trail into the Steens Mountain Wilderness and Threemile Canyon.
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Earlier rains had left the vegetation that crowded the trail rather damp which quickly left our pant legs wet.
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IMG_8402Threemile Creek could be heard but not seen through the thick brush.

IMG_8403Lupine

At the 3/4-mile mark we arrived at a junction with Huffman Trail.
IMG_8406There was a post but no sign at the junction.

Our plan was to take the Huffman Trail uphill to its end on a plateau. If the weather was decent we would then take the Threemile Creek Trail further up Threemile Canyon before returning to the car. We turned left at the junction and began a steep climb, nearly 1100′ in 1.7-miles.
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Wickerstem BuckwheatWickerstem buckwheat

IMG_8421The Pueblo Mountains (post) in the distance including the domed Pueblo Mountain.

IMG_8422Clouds and rain showers to the SW.

IMG_8424Threemile Canyon

IMG_8425The faint Huffman Trail.

IMG_8430Alvord Peak in the center distance with Pueblo Mountain to the far right.

IMG_8431Closer look at Alvord Peak in the center.

IMG_8439Still a little blue sky to the NW.

IMG_8445Not sure where the fog below came from but it was on a mission to beat us up to the plateau.

IMG_8446Here comes the fog and some rain.

IMG_8447Just moments later.

IMG_8448And here is the fog.

We put our rain covers on at a switchback and continued uphill with a light rain falling through the fog.
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The fog had moved on by the time we arrived at the plateau, but the rain lingered.
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IMG_8461The final pitch to the plateau.

IMG_8464Cairn at the end of the trail.

IMG_8465Exploring is possible as long as you remember where you came up.

IMG_8468Looking West.

IMG_8471Looking toward Threemile Canyon.

The rain let up around the time we started back down and the clouds soon began to break up.
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IMG_8477Beatys Butte at center with the long fault block of Hart Mountain (post) to the right partly behind the clouds.

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IMG_8501This frog seemed to enjoy the damp weather.

IMG_8503Cliffs across Threemile Canyon

IMG_8504Arriving back at the junction with the Threemile Creek Trail.

With the weather improving and the Threemile Creek Trail continuing less than a mile beyond the junction we decided to give it a go. Heather told me to go on ahead and to turn around when I was ready and she would just turn around when she felt like it or we met up again. The Huffman Trail had been faint in places and a bit rough, but the remainder of the Threemile Trail took these to a different level.
It started out nicely passing a hillside covered in sunflowers, a few aster, and some curlycup gumweed.
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Curlycup Gumweed (Grindelia squarrosa)Curlycup gumweed

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IMG_8532The trail crossed and at times used dry creek beds and also crossed Threemile Creek several times.

IMG_8535The easiest crossing of Threemile Creek. Several of the others were not obvious until I pushed through the brush and then the footing was often tricky due to large, slick rocks needing to be navigated (at least in order to stay out of the creek).

IMG_8541On the trail, I think.

IMG_8544Elderberry

IMG_8545Hard to tell by the photo but this puffball was a little bigger than a softball.

The trail was described as ending in a meadow just under a mile from the junction with the Huffman Trail. I lost the trail at what appeared to be a post, but it also may just have been a snag.
IMG_8547I wouldn’t really describe the area as a meadow but I was 0.9 miles from the junction.

Since I was uncertain if this was the “meadow” I scrambled over a few rocks looking to see if I could find a continuation of the trail. I couldn’t but I did spot a lone red paintbrush.
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IMG_8550Looking down at the meadow and post/snag (lower right) from the rocks.

I turned around here and headed back. I met Heather on the far side of the first really tricky creek crossing where she had decided to stop. We hiked out together as the clouds continued to break up overhead.
IMG_8556Sometimes the trail was really only identifiable by which junipers had had limbs cut.

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IMG_8559The drop to the creek here was approximately 2′ and the pool in Threemile Creek was fairly deep making this crossing a bit of a challenge not to slip and fall in.

20230903_114222Aster

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IMG_8569Sullivan’s map showed a “Bart Simpson Rock” which we believe was this one.

IMG_8571Nearing the sunflower hillside and trail junction.

IMG_8572Dragonfly

IMG_8577Skipper

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IMG_8585Big bumblebee

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On our way out of the canyon we spotted some horses on the hillside to the south. We don’t know if these were part of the South Steens HMA herd or if they belonged to the ranch but they were pretty.
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The hike to the ends of both trails came to 6.7 miles with approximately 1900′ of elevation gain.

With our featured hike complete we headed back for Burns. It was just after 12:30pm so we had plenty of day left and couldn’t pass up the chance to once again drive the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge’s auto tour route. We’d last driven the route in 2021 (post) and both times we’d visited we’d seen abundant wildlife. In addition to the auto tour there are numerous short trails and hiking opportunities along the way. We hiked several of the trails before but had yet to visit the historic P Ranch near Frenchglen or Krumbo Reservoir which is just under 4 miles from the auto tour route.

Just before reaching Frenchglen we turned off Highway 205 onto Steens Mountain Loop Road and followed it 1.5 miles to Central Patrol Road where we turned left. A third of a mile later we turned left again into the P Ranch and in a large gravel parking area.
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We hadn’t seen anyone else all day until now. A couple was just returning from the River Trail. Amazingly Heather knew them so we had a nice chat before we set off on the same trail. They also let us know to look for an owl in the long barn when we got there later.
IMG_8614Sign for the River Trail.

The River Trail is 2-miles long and can be connected to several other trails to make a decent sized loop. We weren’t up for that kind of distance today so we simply followed the Donner und Blitzen River for 0.3 miles before turning back.
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IMG_8618The long barn where we’d be heading next.

IMG_8620We turned around here where the tread became rougher.

IMG_8621Interpretive signs were scattered along the trails at the P Ranch.

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IMG_8624Lorquin’s admiral and a grasshopper.

IMG_8627Skipper on aster.

Once we were back at the parking area we took the left trail down to the Long Barn Trail (another service road).
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IMG_8634History of the P Ranch which at one time covered 140,000 acres.

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DSCN3981The owl inside the barn.

IMG_8645Other structures from the ranch.

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We covered a mile between the two trails and then continued on the auto tour keeping watch for any wildlife as we headed north toward Krumbo Reservoir Road which was just over 10 miles away.
IMG_8651The gravel road is in good shape but you don’t want to drive any faster than about 10mph so you don’t miss any wildlife.

DSCN3984Fawns

IMG_8655Common nighthawk

DSCN3989So many red-winged blackbirds.

DSCN3991Hawk (northern harrier?) in a field.

DSCN4002More fawns and birds.

DSCN4008Finch?

As we neared Knox Pond we spotted something coming up Central Patrol Road. Just a bit earlier Heather had mentioned that the area we were in looked like where my parents had seen a badger on a visit last year.
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It turned out that this was indeed a badger. Only the second we’ve seen.
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DSCN4032It disappeared in the grass moments later.

DSCN4033Another hawk

IMG_8668Sandhill cranes in the field.

DSCN4040Sandhill cranes

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We turned right onto Krumbo Reservoir Road and parked at the Krumbo Reservoir Dam Trailhead.
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We followed a trail across the dam then hiked through the sagebrush a bit further to get a good view of the reservoir.
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IMG_8676Crossing the dam.

IMG_8677Kiger Gorge (post) in the distance.

DSCN4054Kiger Gorge

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IMG_8685Blurry due to distance but there were several deer at the far end of the reservoir.

DSCN4065Another long shot, a western grebe.

DSCN4071Not certain what this bird was but it dove into the water a couple of times.

IMG_8690The deer, some ducks, the western grebe and a cormorant were all that direction.

It’s possible to bushwack around the reservoir but again we weren’t up for anything that long, so we turned back after just a quarter mile.
IMG_8691It also appeared that some rain was on the way.

IMG_8693Recrossing the dam.

We returned to Central Patrol Road and continued the auto tour and the wildlife sightings.
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DSCN4082Pheasant family

IMG_8695There were at least 5 deer out there.

IMG_8697Two

IMG_8701Three more

DSCN4096White faced ibis

DSCN4100California quail

DSCN4106Pheasant

DSCN4108A few of at least 10 turkey vultures in the trees above the Refuge Headquarters.

DSCN4110Malheur Lake from the end of the auto tour.

After completing the auto tour we returned to Burns for another night. It had been a great day for wildlife and nice to once again have all of the featured hikes in SE Oregon completed. We’re now down to 16 Eastern Oregon featured hikes. If things work out we could be finished with those by the end of next year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

Categories
Central Oregon Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Trip report

Sagehen Hill, Malheur Wildlife Refuge, & Donner Und Blitzen River – 08/16/2021

Monday was mostly a travel day as we left Bend and headed for the Steens Mountain Resort where we would be staying for the next three nights. We did however manage to get a few short hikes in along the way beginning with a trail that had intrigued us since the first time we’d stopped at the Sagehen Rest Area on Highway 20 eighteen miles west of Burns. A highway rest stop seemed like a bit of an odd place for a trail but that’s part of what piqued our interest. The Sagehen Hill Nature Trial is a short (just over half a mile) interpretive loop with 11 numbered stops.
IMG_1968Trailhead sign at the south end of the rest stop. Brochures were located in the small box under the sign.

IMG_1969Map on the trailhead sign.

Smoke from fires near Lakeview, OR made for a smoke filled horizon and unlike our hike on Mt. Bachelor the previous day (post) here we could smell it in the air.
IMG_1972Red Sun through the smoke.

Despite the lack of views (on a clear day Steens Mountain would have been visible) it was a nice hike and the interpretive stops were interesting. We didn’t see any sage grouse here but we spotted some other wildlife along the route.
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IMG_1991The Harney Valley to the east.

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IMG_1998This stop was for a juniper that was blown apart by a lightning strike.

IMG_2000The rest area from the loop.

IMG_2001The last stop was to discuss the relationship between the junipers and the Idaho fescue that grows underneath.

This was a neat little trail and a nice leg stretcher. After completing the loop we drove into Burns, filled up our gas tank and then headed for our next stop at the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters. This was the one place we had previously visited (post) but we hadn’t driven the entire auto tour route that time and there were some other trails in the complex that we could check out. We started with a stop at the headquarters where we once again were treated to a variety of wildlife as we toured the complex.
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DSCN0516Deer in the nearly dry Marshall Pond

DSCN0539Yellow headed blackbird

DSCN0557California quail

IMG_2045Owl

DSCN0614Chipmunk

IMG_2065More quail

DSCN0617The early bird

IMG_2077Hummingbird

IMG_2081Little bird on a feeder

We skipped the Overlook Trail this time due to the smoke filled horizon and started the auto tour route. Again there was plenty of wildlife to pause for along the drive and we also stopped at Benson Pond to hike the Benson Pond Trail (a short half mile out and back) where we were treated to a large number of ducks and other birds on the pond.
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DSCN0654Shrike

IMG_2099Hawk and a magpie

DSCN0663Osprey

DSCN0667Turkey vultures

IMG_2125Coyote

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IMG_2138Mourning doves

IMG_2143Egrets and ducks at Benson Pond

<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51393871889_968777c132_c.jpg&quot; width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_2153">American kestral

IMG_2156Old cabin at Benson Pond

IMG_2177Another owl

DSCN0725Another turkey vulture

IMG_2189Grasshopper

DSCN0733White faced ibis

DSCN0736Great blue heron amid the ducks.

IMG_2195A couple types of egrets it appears.

DSCN0763Deer that were in the Blitzen River

DSCN0764Bounding fawn

DSCN0769Ducks and coots at Knox Pond

The auto tour route ends at the Steens Mountain Loop Road just a mile and a half from the Steens Mountain Resort. We were a bit too early to check in though so we drove past the resort another tenth of a mile to the entrance of the Page Springs Campground. We turned into the campground and parked at the day use area at its far end where two trails start. The one mile Wilderness Nature Trail and the 3.7 mile long Donner und Blitzen River Trail.
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We decided to take the Donner und Blitzen Trail since the nature trail looped back into the campground and ended near one of the campsites leaving a short road walk back to the trailhead. The Donner und Blitzen Trail entered the Steens Mountain Wilderness a short distance from the trailhead and followed the river fairly closely for the first 1.2 miles which is as far as we went on this day. It was a little smokey and it was hot and enough time had passed that we would be able to check into the resort by the time we made it back to our car. The trail was a little brushy at times but a nice surprise was finding a loop option not shown on the map but clearly marked starting 0.4 miles from the trailhead and rejoining the river trail at the 0.7 mile mark. We took this route on the way back climbing up through the cliffs above the river providing some nice views despite the haze.
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IMG_2224Bee and a butterfly

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IMG_2235A brushy section.

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IMG_2256A bee and a skipper

20210816_131717Praying mantis

IMG_2261The “other” trail on the hillside at the 0.7 mile mark.

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IMG_2275A wren?

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IMG_2280Fence crossing

IMG_2281Rejoining the Donner und Blitzen Trail at the 0.4 mile mark.

2.9 mile hike on the Donner und Blitzen trail

We got a total of 5.4 miles of hiking in between Sagehen Hill, the refuge headquarters, Benson Pond, and the Donner und Blitzen River. The abundant wildlife was the highlight of the day. We checked into the resort and got settled in our modular unit which had a full kitchen, shower, couch and most importantly A/C. We were hoping that the smoke would move out overnight or at least over the next day or two when the temperature was also set to drop to more reasonable levels. We spent the evening listening to the osprey that had a nest below the resort. Happy Trails!
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Flickr: Sagehen Hill, Malheur Wildlife Refuge, and Donner und Blitzen River