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Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Steens Mountain Trip report

Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge – 09/03/2023

After spending the night in Burns it was time for the featured hike that had brought us here. Threemile Canyon was a recent edition as a featured hike after switching editions on our quest to finish the 100 featured hikes in each of William L. Sullivans guidebooks (post). We got a little later start than typical for us opting to stick around long enough to take advantage of the 6am full breakfast at our motel. After eating we made the hour and a half drive South on Highway 205 (County Road 202) to the Threemile Creek Trailhead.
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We’d driven through a couple of rain showers but we had a bit of blue sky overhead at the trailhead (for now).
IMG_8380Beatys Butte to the SW.

IMG_8381Rain to the SW as well.

We followed the Threemile Creek Trail into the Steens Mountain Wilderness and Threemile Canyon.
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Earlier rains had left the vegetation that crowded the trail rather damp which quickly left our pant legs wet.
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IMG_8402Threemile Creek could be heard but not seen through the thick brush.

IMG_8403Lupine

At the 3/4-mile mark we arrived at a junction with Huffman Trail.
IMG_8406There was a post but no sign at the junction.

Our plan was to take the Huffman Trail uphill to its end on a plateau. If the weather was decent we would then take the Threemile Creek Trail further up Threemile Canyon before returning to the car. We turned left at the junction and began a steep climb, nearly 1100′ in 1.7-miles.
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Wickerstem BuckwheatWickerstem buckwheat

IMG_8421The Pueblo Mountains (post) in the distance including the domed Pueblo Mountain.

IMG_8422Clouds and rain showers to the SW.

IMG_8424Threemile Canyon

IMG_8425The faint Huffman Trail.

IMG_8430Alvord Peak in the center distance with Pueblo Mountain to the far right.

IMG_8431Closer look at Alvord Peak in the center.

IMG_8439Still a little blue sky to the NW.

IMG_8445Not sure where the fog below came from but it was on a mission to beat us up to the plateau.

IMG_8446Here comes the fog and some rain.

IMG_8447Just moments later.

IMG_8448And here is the fog.

We put our rain covers on at a switchback and continued uphill with a light rain falling through the fog.
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The fog had moved on by the time we arrived at the plateau, but the rain lingered.
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IMG_8461The final pitch to the plateau.

IMG_8464Cairn at the end of the trail.

IMG_8465Exploring is possible as long as you remember where you came up.

IMG_8468Looking West.

IMG_8471Looking toward Threemile Canyon.

The rain let up around the time we started back down and the clouds soon began to break up.
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IMG_8477Beatys Butte at center with the long fault block of Hart Mountain (post) to the right partly behind the clouds.

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IMG_8501This frog seemed to enjoy the damp weather.

IMG_8503Cliffs across Threemile Canyon

IMG_8504Arriving back at the junction with the Threemile Creek Trail.

With the weather improving and the Threemile Creek Trail continuing less than a mile beyond the junction we decided to give it a go. Heather told me to go on ahead and to turn around when I was ready and she would just turn around when she felt like it or we met up again. The Huffman Trail had been faint in places and a bit rough, but the remainder of the Threemile Trail took these to a different level.
It started out nicely passing a hillside covered in sunflowers, a few aster, and some curlycup gumweed.
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Curlycup Gumweed (Grindelia squarrosa)Curlycup gumweed

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IMG_8532The trail crossed and at times used dry creek beds and also crossed Threemile Creek several times.

IMG_8535The easiest crossing of Threemile Creek. Several of the others were not obvious until I pushed through the brush and then the footing was often tricky due to large, slick rocks needing to be navigated (at least in order to stay out of the creek).

IMG_8541On the trail, I think.

IMG_8544Elderberry

IMG_8545Hard to tell by the photo but this puffball was a little bigger than a softball.

The trail was described as ending in a meadow just under a mile from the junction with the Huffman Trail. I lost the trail at what appeared to be a post, but it also may just have been a snag.
IMG_8547I wouldn’t really describe the area as a meadow but I was 0.9 miles from the junction.

Since I was uncertain if this was the “meadow” I scrambled over a few rocks looking to see if I could find a continuation of the trail. I couldn’t but I did spot a lone red paintbrush.
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IMG_8550Looking down at the meadow and post/snag (lower right) from the rocks.

I turned around here and headed back. I met Heather on the far side of the first really tricky creek crossing where she had decided to stop. We hiked out together as the clouds continued to break up overhead.
IMG_8556Sometimes the trail was really only identifiable by which junipers had had limbs cut.

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IMG_8559The drop to the creek here was approximately 2′ and the pool in Threemile Creek was fairly deep making this crossing a bit of a challenge not to slip and fall in.

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IMG_8569Sullivan’s map showed a “Bart Simpson Rock” which we believe was this one.

IMG_8571Nearing the sunflower hillside and trail junction.

IMG_8572Dragonfly

IMG_8577Skipper

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IMG_8585Big bumblebee

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On our way out of the canyon we spotted some horses on the hillside to the south. We don’t know if these were part of the South Steens HMA herd or if they belonged to the ranch but they were pretty.
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The hike to the ends of both trails came to 6.7 miles with approximately 1900′ of elevation gain.

With our featured hike complete we headed back for Burns. It was just after 12:30pm so we had plenty of day left and couldn’t pass up the chance to once again drive the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge’s auto tour route. We’d last driven the route in 2021 (post) and both times we’d visited we’d seen abundant wildlife. In addition to the auto tour there are numerous short trails and hiking opportunities along the way. We hiked several of the trails before but had yet to visit the historic P Ranch near Frenchglen or Krumbo Reservoir which is just under 4 miles from the auto tour route.

Just before reaching Frenchglen we turned off Highway 205 onto Steens Mountain Loop Road and followed it 1.5 miles to Central Patrol Road where we turned left. A third of a mile later we turned left again into the P Ranch and in a large gravel parking area.
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We hadn’t seen anyone else all day until now. A couple was just returning from the River Trail. Amazingly Heather knew them so we had a nice chat before we set off on the same trail. They also let us know to look for an owl in the long barn when we got there later.
IMG_8614Sign for the River Trail.

The River Trail is 2-miles long and can be connected to several other trails to make a decent sized loop. We weren’t up for that kind of distance today so we simply followed the Donner und Blitzen River for 0.3 miles before turning back.
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IMG_8618The long barn where we’d be heading next.

IMG_8620We turned around here where the tread became rougher.

IMG_8621Interpretive signs were scattered along the trails at the P Ranch.

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IMG_8624Lorquin’s admiral and a grasshopper.

IMG_8627Skipper on aster.

Once we were back at the parking area we took the left trail down to the Long Barn Trail (another service road).
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IMG_8634History of the P Ranch which at one time covered 140,000 acres.

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DSCN3981The owl inside the barn.

IMG_8645Other structures from the ranch.

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We covered a mile between the two trails and then continued on the auto tour keeping watch for any wildlife as we headed north toward Krumbo Reservoir Road which was just over 10 miles away.
IMG_8651The gravel road is in good shape but you don’t want to drive any faster than about 10mph so you don’t miss any wildlife.

DSCN3984Fawns

IMG_8655Common nighthawk

DSCN3989So many red-winged blackbirds.

DSCN3991Hawk (northern harrier?) in a field.

DSCN4002More fawns and birds.

DSCN4008Finch?

As we neared Knox Pond we spotted something coming up Central Patrol Road. Just a bit earlier Heather had mentioned that the area we were in looked like where my parents had seen a badger on a visit last year.
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It turned out that this was indeed a badger. Only the second we’ve seen.
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DSCN4032It disappeared in the grass moments later.

DSCN4033Another hawk

IMG_8668Sandhill cranes in the field.

DSCN4040Sandhill cranes

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We turned right onto Krumbo Reservoir Road and parked at the Krumbo Reservoir Dam Trailhead.
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We followed a trail across the dam then hiked through the sagebrush a bit further to get a good view of the reservoir.
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IMG_8676Crossing the dam.

IMG_8677Kiger Gorge (post) in the distance.

DSCN4054Kiger Gorge

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IMG_8685Blurry due to distance but there were several deer at the far end of the reservoir.

DSCN4065Another long shot, a western grebe.

DSCN4071Not certain what this bird was but it dove into the water a couple of times.

IMG_8690The deer, some ducks, the western grebe and a cormorant were all that direction.

It’s possible to bushwack around the reservoir but again we weren’t up for anything that long, so we turned back after just a quarter mile.
IMG_8691It also appeared that some rain was on the way.

IMG_8693Recrossing the dam.

We returned to Central Patrol Road and continued the auto tour and the wildlife sightings.
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DSCN4082Pheasant family

IMG_8695There were at least 5 deer out there.

IMG_8697Two

IMG_8701Three more

DSCN4096White faced ibis

DSCN4100California quail

DSCN4106Pheasant

DSCN4108A few of at least 10 turkey vultures in the trees above the Refuge Headquarters.

DSCN4110Malheur Lake from the end of the auto tour.

After completing the auto tour we returned to Burns for another night. It had been a great day for wildlife and nice to once again have all of the featured hikes in SE Oregon completed. We’re now down to 16 Eastern Oregon featured hikes. If things work out we could be finished with those by the end of next year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

Categories
Hiking Year-end wrap up

2018 Wildlife Gallery

We encountered a large variety of animals during our travels in 2018. A number of the animals we had not previously seen including a badger near Borax Springs (which we failed to get a photo of). Below is a sample of the many critters we encountered this year.

Seals in Nehalem BaySeals in Nehalem Bay

FrogTree frog – Patterson Mountain

Garter snakeGarter snake on Patterson Mountain

Crab spiderCrab spider – Lookout Creek Trail

Green beetle on the Carpenter Mountain TrailBeetle – Carpenter Mountain

ButterflyPale crescent near Macks Canyon

Gopher snakeGopher snake near Macks Canyon

Crowded thistleBeetles on thistle near Mack’s Canyon

CaterpillarCaterpillar along the Black Butte Trail

Green tailed towheeGreen tailed towhee on Black Butte

PigeonRock pigeon – Deschutes River

Merganser familyMerganser family – Deschutes River

Dragon flyDragon Fly – Deschutes River

LizardSagebrush Lizard – Deschutes River

PronghornPronghorn – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Yellow headed blackbirdsYellow headed blackbird – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Horned grebesHorned grebes – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Great horned owlGreat horned owl – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Lewis's woodpeckerLewis’s woodpecker – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

White Faced IbisWhite faced ibis – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Yellow warblerYellow warbler – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Western meadowlarkWestern meadowlark – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

Bullock's orioleBullock’s oriole – Malheur Wildlife Refuge

RabbitRabbit – Jordan Craters

MarmotMarmot – Jordan Craters

ChukarChukar – Leslie Gulch

CricketCricket – Leslie Gulch

Monarch butterflyViceroy- Leslie Gulch

Swallowtail in Timber GulchSwallow tail – Leslie Gulch

CicadaCicada – Leslie Gulch

Burrowing owlBurrowing owl near Leslie Gulch

Dragon flyDragon fly – Three Forks

ButterflyFritillary butterfly – Three Forks

PheasantPheasant – Pillars of Rome

Side blotched lizardSide blotched lizard – Chalk Basin

Collard LizardCollard lizard – Chalk Basin

Sandhill CranesSandhill Cranes near Steens Mountain

Jack rabbitjack rabbit – Borax Hot Springs

Horned lizardDesert horned lizard – Alvord Desert

Long nosed leopard lizardLong nosed leopard lizard – Alvord Desert

LizardWestern Fence Lizard – Pike Creek

SwallowtailSwallow tail – Myrtle Creek

ButterflySheridan’s hairstreak – Myrtle Creek

Orange- tip ButterflyOrange-tip butterfly – Myrtle Creek

Western kingbirdWestern kingbird – Cove Palisades State Park

Cascade toadCascade toad – Browder Ridge

Gray jayGray jay – Browder Ridge

HummingbirdRufous hummingbird – Horsepasture Mountain

GrouseGrouse – Horsepasture Mountain

WrenWren – French Creek Ridge

Butterfly on stonecropCheckerspot butterfly – French Creek Ridge

ChipmunkChipmunk near Hidden Forest Cave

Pygmy short horned lizardPygmy short horned lizard near Pictograph Cave

CaterpillarsCaterpillars – Strawberry Mountain Wilderness

Fish in Little Strawberry LakeTrout – Little Strawberry Lake

Doe at Slide LakeDoe – Slide Lake

Megarhyssa nortoniMegarhyssa nortoni

Great blue heronGreat blue heron – Newport Bay

SnakeSharp-tailed snake – Newport Bay

OspreyOsprey – South Beach

PikaPika – Mt. Jefferson Wilderness

HawkNorthern goshawk – Elkhorns

HawkRed tailed hawk – Elkhorns

Mountain goats across Lower Twin LakeMountain goats – Elkhorns

Mountain goat grazing near Lower Twin LakeMountain Goat – Elkhorns

Golden-mantled ground squirrelGolden mantled ground squirrel – Elkhorns

Mourning cloakMourning cloak – Elkhorns

Beetle at Summit LakeBeetle – Summit Lake

Bee on coneflowerBumble bee – Crawfish Lake

FinchFinch – Crawfish Lake

Bald eagleBald Eagle – Waldo Lake

WoodpeckerHairy woodpecker – Rigdon Lakes

Blue copper butterflyBlue copper – Rockpile Lake

Buttefly at Carl LakeTortoiseshell butterfly – Carl Lake

Varied thrushVaried thrush – Carl Lake

Frogs on a logFrogs – Table Lake

Clarks nutcrackerClarks nutcracker – Mt. Jefferson Wilderness

OuzelOuzel – Pamelia Lake

JuncoJunco – Pamelia Lake

FrogFrog – Taylor Lake

Birds on the beachSanderlings – John Dellenback Beach

SquirrelDouglas squirrel – John Dellenback Dunes Trail

EgretGreat egret – Mud Lake

Bird at Mud LakeWilson’s snipe – Mud Lake

Elk along Elk River RoadElk on the way to Barklow Mt.

StarfishStarfish – Bandon, Oregon

CrabCrab – Bandon, Oregon

AnemonesAnemones – Bandon, Oregon

Turkey vultureTurkey Vulture – Bandon, Oregon

Seagull and a marbled godwit in the Coquile RiverSeagull and a marbled godwit in the Coquile River

Black turnstones along the North JettyBlack turnstones – North Jetty, Bandon, Oregon

PelicansBrown pelicans – Bullards Beach State Park

MinkMink – Sprague River

White pelicans and a seagullWhite pelicans – Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge

Snowy egret at Tule Lake National Wildlife RefugeSnowy egret – Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge

Stellars jayStellar’s jay – Fish Lake

MuskratMuskrat – Lake of the Woods

Dragon flyDragon fly – Lake of the Woods

GeeseCanada geese – Lake of the Woods

CaterpillarCaterpillar – Lake of the Woods

CormorantsCormorants – Link River

American cootsAmerican coots – Link River

MallardsMallards – Pond near Lake Ewauna

Northern shovelerNorthern shoveler – Pond near Lake Ewauna

Northern flickerNorthern flicker – Link River Trail

Scrub jayScrub jay – Link River Trail

Western grebeWestern grebe – Link River

Hooded mergansersHooded mergansers – Link River

BuffleheadsBuffleheads – Siltcoos Lake

Rough skinned newtRough skinned newt – Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

SparrowSparrow – Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

Anna's hummingbirdAnna’s hummingbird – Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

Ring-necked ducksRing-necked ducks – Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

Spotted towheeSpotted towhee – Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

That’s a pretty good sample of the different wildlife we spotted this year, but we still often wonder how much wildlife we don’t notice on our hikes. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Trip report

Malheur Wildlife Refuge, Diamond Craters, and the Peter French Round Barn – SE Oregon Vacation Day 2

Day 2 of our SE Oregon vacation was set to be more of a driving day as we headed from Bend to our next destination which we had originally intended to be Jordan Valley. Instead we ended the day in Caldwell, Idaho but we’ll get to that later.

When I was planning this trip I was looking for a hike between Bend and Jordan Valley to do along the way. We had done the Oregon Badlands twice (post post) and Pine Mountain (post) previously. These were the only hikes that were listed in our “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” guidebook but the travel guide for Burns pointed us toward the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge.
Having reopened after the occupation we were eager to visit the refuge and show our support for our Public Lands.

We left Bend bright and early and drove east on Highway 20 to Burns then followed signs to the refuge. We were quickly rewarded when we spotted a prong horn with two little ones in tow.
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We suspended some of our usual rules for this trip such as taking some photos from the car of wildlife and having our driving time exceed our hiking time several of the days, but when you’re that far from home you have to be flexible. We did plan on doing a little hiking on our visit to the refuge though so we parked at the Overlook Trail just beyond the turnoff for the park headquarters.
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The headquarters lay a half mile below the overlook which looked out over Malheur Lake in the distance.
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We followed the trail down to the headquarters.
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It was a beautiful morning and the headquarters was full of birds, ground squirrels and even a rabbit.
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IMG_5320Rabbit behind the plants

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We stopped in the visitors center where a helpful volunteer gave us several brochures and told us about the 43 mile auto-tour as well as mentioning the Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Area and the Peter French Round Barn State Heritage Site. These last two sites aren’t part of the refuge but they were along the route we’d be taking to Jordan Valley so she recommended we stop and check them out. After getting this helpful information we walked over to the Museum.
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The small building held a wealth of information as well as displays of the birds, bats and many of the insects that can be seen at the refuge. We spent quite a while there before moving on to the short Marsh Trail.
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We stopped in the photo blind and even though there weren’t many birds on the water we did see a pair of horned grebes.
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After completing the short loop we visited the gift shop. While we were inside I happened to look out the window and noticed something in the grass. I thought it was a cat but the fur didn’t look right, then it turned it’s head and I realized it was a great horned owl.
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By the time I got Heather it had disappeared. From the gift shop we returned to the Overlook Trail and climbed back to our car. Before we reached the Overlook Trail though we spotted a Lewis’s Woodpecker sitting on a post.
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When we got back to where we had parked we noticed that we could see Steens Mountain off to the SE. This was our first time viewing the 50 mile long fault block mountain.
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Based on the information given to us in the visitors center we decided to do part of the 42 mile auto tour. There are 19 “stops” along the route. We picked up the route from the Overlook Trail (which is stop 1) and started down the gravel road. Sign posts marked the suggested stops that corresponded with the brochure given to us at the headquarters.
IMG_5365 Stop 2 – Sod House Ranch

We followed the route for 15.8 miles passing stops 2-8. The wildlife were the stars of the drive though as we spotted various birds and several deer including three bucks near the crossing of the Blitzen River.
American CootAmerican Coot

White Faced IbisWhite Faced Ibis

IMG_5418Cormorants

IMG_5424Yellow Warbler?

IMG_5432Western Meadowlark

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After stop 8 (Buena Vista Ponds) we turned right toward stop 9 which is the Buena Vista Overlook. Here there was an option to hike up to the overlook on a .3 mile trail.
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We chose this option and headed uphill through the sagebrush where we spotted a northern flicker and a bullock’s oriole.
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From the parking area on top we followed a gravel path to the overlook.
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We had forgotten to bring our binoculars up with us so we had to settle for listening to the birds below in the ponds.
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Once again Steens Mountain was visible on the horizon.
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We hiked down the road to make a 1.1 mile loop out of the hike and then left the auto tour which would have had us back track to where we turned off and continue south to Frenchglen. Instead we drove west to Highway 205 and turned left for 1.9 miles to Diamond Lane. Here we turned left crossing the auto tour route at stop 10 (Diamond Lane) and continued east for a total of 10 miles to a sign for the Diamond Craters Auto Tour Stops 5-11.
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Prior to speaking with the volunteer at the refuge we had not planned on stopping here and had little information other than the small brochure she’d given us. We parked at a signboard where the one map had been vandalized.
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We decided to give hiking a try and followed a path toward Crater 5 aka Big Bomb Crater.
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The trail petered out near the bowl so we backtracked to where we’d parked and decided to hike up the road a bit to the next crater which was ahead on our right. We passed a few small desert flowers along the way before reaching a view of the crater known as the Keyhole Explosion Crater.
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The road had split before we had arrived at this crater and ahead it continued to climb uphill.
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Not knowing what lay ahead we opted to avoid the climb in the heat of the day and headed back to the split where we took the left hand fork to another crater, the Lava Point Crater.
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A marmot was admiring this crater when we arrived.
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We ended our hike here and returned to our car. A short 1.7 mile jaunt had given us a sample of what the Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Area had to offer. We hope to go back some day with better information and visit more of the area.

After leaving the area we continued NE on what had started as Diamond Lane then become Lava Beds Road and was now Diamond Craters Road. Just over six and a half miles from where we’d parked we turned right at a sign for the Peter French Round Barn State Heritage Area.
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We skipped the visitors center here and headed straight for the round barn.
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Information signs told the story of this unique structure and of Peter French who had amassed quite an empire before being shot.
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While there are no trails at this park we did walk around and through the barn.
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It was another interesting and worthwhile stop. From the Round Barn we continued on to Highway 78 where we turned right following it to Highway 95 where we turned left toward Jordan Valley. As we got closer to Jordan Valley we began to talk ourselves into possibly staying in Marsing, ID instead thinking that it was a larger city and might have amenities that we wouldn’t have in Jordan Valley such as cell coverage. By the time we passed the loan motel in Jordan Valley we had pretty much made up our minds to continue on to Marsing thinking that it was only 20 miles to the north. That was a miscalculation as it was actually close to 50 miles further and when we did finally get cell reception we found that there were no real options in Marsing for places to stay. We had to continue on for another 15 miles to Caldwell, ID where we wound up staying in a hotel just off I84 which we had been on the day before when we’d driven from Salem to the Deschutes Recreation Area.

It had turned into a long day of driving with three short hikes and a couple of stops mixed in. We decided to stay in Caldwell for two nights and then go back to our original plan of staying in Jordan Valley. Things were really shaping up for this to be one adventurous vacation. Happy Trails!

Flickr: SE Oregon Road Trip Day 2