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Hiking Northern Coast Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Crescent Beach, Ft. Stevens Historic District, and the Skipanon River Loop – 05/11/2024

We spent Mother’s Day weekend hiking several trails in Clatsop County. We began on Saturday by driving to Ecola State Park and parking in the Ecola Point parking lot. We last visited the park in December 2013 when we hiked north along the Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) to Tillamook Head’s high point. (post)
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For this visit our plan was to hike south on the OCT then take the Crescent Beach Trail down to that beach.
IMG_4148The trail begins near the restrooms.

The trail began by climbing via a couple sets of wooden stairs to Ecola Park Rd which it briefly followed along the shoulder.
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IMG_4156Ecola Park Road.

Where the trail left the shoulder, we came to a pair of cyclists who we thought were looking out at the Ocean. It took a second for us to realize that they were actually watching a small herd of elk in the forest below.
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After watching the elk for a moment we started down the trail which wound up switching back down toward the elk. Luckily they were following proper Leave No Trace Principals and remained an acceptable distance from the wild hikers.
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We continued on past the elk following the OCT approximately a mile from parking lot to the junction with the Crescent Beach Trail.
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IMG_4188Skunk cabbage

IMG_4190Scouler’s corydalis

IMG_4194Window to the Pacific.

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We turned right at the junction and descended a quarter mile to Crescent Beach.
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IMG_4208Ecola Point

IMG_4210Chapman Point and Bird Rocks

We decided to head north toward Ecola Point to check out the tide pools. We had inadvertently timed our visit nearly perfectly as it was about an hour and a half from low tide.
Prior to reaching the tide pools we passed Waterfall Creek.
IMG_4213The upper falls.

IMG_4214Waterfall Creek

IMG_4218The lower falls.

IMG_4219The tide pools from Waterfall Creek.

The tide pools wound up being some of the most impressive we’d seen. We spent a good amount of time walking around to the different pools. We were careful not to climb on any of the rocks or to disturb any of the wildlife. In fact some of the rocks that were exposed are likely part of the Oregon Islands Wilderness.
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20240511_082411We found Patrick from Spongebob!

After admiring the tide pools we headed south along the beach toward Chapman Point and the Bird Rocks.
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IMG_4280We were curious as to what forces carved out the backside of this rock.

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IMG_4285Chapman Point is only passable at certain low tides. On the far side is Cannon Beach (post).

20240511_084246This cave through Chapman Point was flooded at the far end.

IMG_4287Pigeon guillemot

IMG_4302Goose

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We turned around at Chapman Point and headed back to the Crescent Beach Trail.
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IMG_4304Whibrel

We retraced our steps back to Ecola Point where the lot was beginning to fill up.
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Seaside bittercressSeaside bittercress

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Our hike here came to 4.4-miles with approximately 600′ of elevation gain.
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We hopped in our car and headed north to Fort Stevens State Park for our next hike. There are several parking lots at Fort Stevens and we opted to park at Battery Russell lot.
IMG_4317Battery Russell from the lot.

As with Ecola Point we had started a hike here before. In September 2017 we visited Battery Russell, Coffenbury Lake, and a shipwreck at the park (post). Again today we were going in the opposite direction, this time north to visit the park’s Historic Area. We followed a paved path east from the parking lot then over Jetty Road on an overpass.
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IMG_4327The overpass

We followed the paved path to a junction near a pill box where we went right.
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The path led past Swash Lake which helped explain the host of mosquitos that were flying around us.
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We stayed right at the next junction and Jetty Lagoon on the Swash Lake Bridge.
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IMG_4342Looking out toward Swash Lake from the bridge.

A little under 2 miles form the parking lot we arrived at the visitor’s center.
IMG_4344The gate to the Historic Area is locked in the evening.

IMG_4347Visitor’s center

A number of trails and paths wind around the Historic Area as well as open spaces that one can simply walk across. We made up our own route based on a suggested hike from the Oregonhikers Field Guide.

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We began by walking past a jeep on display and looping behind the visitor’s center.
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From the visitor’s center we headed into a large open space where the barracks had once been.
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We made our way to the far end of the open space and turned south to see the old guardhouse and Battery Clark.
IMG_4366The guardhouse on the left.

IMG_4368Battery Clark

We then turned back north cutting across the barracks area toward a pair of smooth bore cannons and Battery Freeman.
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We passed the cannons and hiked through a guarded underpass.
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IMG_4381Fort Stevens Earth Works.

We crossed a grassy field to the cannons atop the Earth Works then descended a staircase.
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IMG_4386White-crowned sparrow

IMG_4385We cut across the grass below to the footbridge in the distance.

IMG_4388Columbia River

IMG_4389Looking west toward the Pacific.

At the Columbia we turned right on the Jetty Trail and followed it past some disc golf holes and Battery Smur to a former roadbed.
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IMG_4391Battery Smur

IMG_4392The roadbed coming in from the former barracks site.

We turned left on this road and followed it to a gate and the former Torpedo Loading Room.
IMG_4393Mine Loading Building

IMG_4398Searchlight Generator

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IMG_4397Torpedo Loading Room

We turned around here and walked back to the Jetty Trail and followed it west through the Disc Golf Course to the Clatsop Longhouse site.
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From the longhouse site we continued on the Jetty Trail toward Battery 245.
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IMG_4423Battery 245

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We hiked around Battery 245 and onto Battery Mishler.
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We passed this battery and Battery Pratt then veered right on a paved path which led back to the path we’d followed from Battery Russell.
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IMG_4438Sign for the Lil’ Oozlefinch Putting Course.

We headed back toward the parking lot and at the Pill Box we veered right which was a more direct route to the parking lot. The drawback was that there was no overpass here so we had to watch for traffic before crossing Jetty Road.
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IMG_4441Bald eagle

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IMG_4446Gate near Jetty Road.

After crossing Jetty Road, we followed the paved path left a tenth of a mile to the Battery Russell parking lot. This hike came to 6.3-miles with just 75′ or so of elevation gain.
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Our final stop of the day was just 5 miles from the Battery Russell parking lot at Lighthouse Park in Warrenton.
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IMG_4449The parking lot at the park.

Our plan here was to hike the 2-mile Skipanon River Loop. Three things drew us to this trail. First it was a trail we hadn’t yet hiked. Secondly, we hadn’t hiked along the Skipanon River yet, and while it isn’t an official goal we are trying to visit as many of Oregon’s rivers as possible. Finally, one of our favorite post hike restaurants, Nisa’s Thai Kitchen is located along the route.

From the parking lot we crossed NE Skipanon Drive and followed the sidewalk past a storage facility to a path next to E Harbor Drive that promptly passed beneath the road.
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IMG_4452Emerging from the underpass.

We turned right onto a paved path along the Skipanon River for a third of a mile to Skipanon River Park.
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IMG_4454Mallard family

IMG_4460Sign at the park.

At the park the trail ended and we turned right onto SE 3rd St and followed it a block to S Main Avenue where we turned left. After two blocks on Main we turned left onto SE 5th St and then took a right on a grassy track behind some buildings.
IMG_4461Eighth Street Dam from the grassy track.

We crossed the river on the 8th Street Dam where we finally saw an official trail map.
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IMG_4465Until we saw this sign we’d been thinking that maybe the trail didn’t exist any longer. We were also questioning how the loop was supposed to get back across the river at the other end since the only bridge across the river there was Harbor Drive. Until seeing this we were thinking of turning around at the dam, but instead we decided that we’d do the loop with Heather getting a table at Nisa’s while I recrossed the river to retrieve the car.

With lunch calling, and our feet feeling a bit worn, we opted not to do the optional out-and-back B1 spur trail and continued on the loop past a gate.
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On this side the trail was a nice grassy track following a dike which was far more pleasant than Main Avenue.
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Greater scaupNot the clearest picture but I think this is a greater scaup based on the head shape. We’ve seen a number of lesser scaups, but this would be our first greater.

IMG_4475Great blue heron

IMG_4480Cormorant

IMG_4482A brief paved section.

IMG_4483Nisa’s Thai Kitchen across Harbor Drive.

There was a nice wide bike/pedestrian lane on the bridge making the crossing not too bad even with traffic. As I was made my way across I noticed a path leading down to the underpass on the south side of Harbor Drive which meant I wouldn’t need to cross the main street on foot.
IMG_4485Looking back up the path from Harbor Drive.

The loop came in just over 2-miles with minimal elevation gain.
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This would probably be a nicer hike early in the morning when less traffic was about. It was a little awkward walking along the city streets as well, but the grassy dike was a comfortable walk. What really made this worth the stop though was the Drunken Noodles and Pad Thai. After a satisfying meal we drove to Astoria arriving at our motel right after check in time (3pm). We originally thought we might head out to the Astoria Riverwalk after cleaning up, but after showering a resting for a bit it was clear that 12.9 miles were enough for one day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crecent Beach, Fort Stevens Historic Area, and the Skipanon River Loop

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Oceanside, Short Beach, Tillamook Wetlands, and Anderson Hill – 10/28/23

A cold snap arrived in conjunction with the final hike of our official 2023 season leaving us with a decision to make about where to go. One of the great things about living in Western Oregon are the hiking options. We were debating between heading to Government Camp near Mt. Hood to see some of the new snow that the system had brought with it, or to the beach where things would be a little bit warmer. In the end we decided that we weren’t quite ready for a Winter wonderland yet, and highs in the low to mid 50s sounded a little more appealing than highs in the low to mid 30s. The beach it was where we had some unfinished business at Oceanside.

We had attempted to hike the beach at Oceanside earlier in the year on a different multi-stop day (post), but had saved it for the final stop only to find the area so crowded that there was no place to park. We wouldn’t be making that mistake again so this time it was stop number one on the itinerary. We had no issue finding a parking spot this time arriving just as the Moon was disappearing behind Three Arch Rocks.
IMG_1433From left to right: Storm, Finely, and Shag Rocks.

Three Arch Rocks is one of two designated wilderness areas along the Oregon Coast Managed by the Department of Fish and Wildlife as a wildlife refuge the 15-acre wilderness area was the first designated refuge West of the Mississippi and is one of only a few wilderness areas entirely closed to entry by the general public.

From the parking lot we took the stairs down to the beach and headed north toward the Tunnel which leads through Maxwell Point to Tunnel Beach.
IMG_1438Cape Lookout (post) to the south.

IMG_1440Maxwell Point

IMG_1443View from beside Maxwell Point.

IMG_1444The Tunnel was built in 1926.

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IMG_1454The Tunnel from Tunnel Beach.

IMG_1450Three Arch Rocks from Tunnel Beach.

We hiked North along the beach passing a rocky point to Agate Beach before turning around where that beach ended at a cliff a little more than a third of a mile from the Tunnel.
IMG_1465The end of Tunnel Beach. At higher tide it’s not possible to get around the point here.

IMG_1469Getting closer to the end of Tunnel Beach. This set of ocean rocks are part of the Oregon Islands Wilderness, A string of of over 5,600 rocks, reefs, islets, and islands lying within three miles offshore mirroring almost the entire length of the Oregon coast from Tillamook Head to the California border. Like Three Arch Rocks this wilderness is also closed to the public.

IMG_1484Bald eagle on top of one of the rocks.

IMG_1476Seal

IMG_1477Agate Beach

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IMG_1490Cape Lookout from Agate Beach.

After reaching the cliff we headed back to the Tunnel and then continued South along the beach 2.3-miles to Hodgdon Creek across from Netarts Spit (post).

IMG_1492An assortment of sea birds.

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IMG_1504Maxwell Point and Cape Lookout

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IMG_1508Sun starting to hit the Three Arch Rocks.

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IMG_1519Sand dollar

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IMG_1531Cormorants. There was a steady stream of flocks of birds heading south along the coastline.

IMG_1543Footbridge over Fall Creek.

IMG_1544Fall Creek

IMG_1570Frosty leaves near Fall Creek.

IMG_1548Great blue heron in a tree above Fall Creek.

IMG_1551Happy Camp

IMG_1557Hodgdon Creek

IMG_1555Seagulls and common mergansers near Hodgdon Creek.

IMG_1558Buffleheads

IMG_1562Netarts Spit

IMG_1565Happy Camp from our turn around point.

We returned the way we’d come and then drove North on Cape Meares Loop Road just under a mile and a half to a pullout across from a sign for Short Beach.
IMG_1575Three Arch Rocks and Maxwell Point now in full Sun.

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A local built the staircase leading down to Short Beach and it is about as “Oregon Coast” as a staircase could be.
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IMG_1590The beach only extends a short distance to the South.

IMG_1588The sea stack and Short Creek Spillway to the North.

We headed North along the cobblestone beach which isn’t the easiest surface to hike on, especially when they are wet and slightly frosty. On the positive side the cobblestones added some great sounds to the ocean as the waves tossed them about then rolled them over one another as the waves receded.
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IMG_1618Starfish

IMG_1619The sea stack

IMG_1621Cape Meares (post)

IMG_1609I didn’t notice the little waterfall along the cliffs below Cape Mears until I looked at the pictures.

IMG_1625Red-throated loon

A third of a mile from the stairs we reached Larsen Creek Falls.
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Apparently at low tide it’s possible to reach the cliffs below Cape Meares, but the tide was coming in and it also appeared that some sliding had occurred at some point, so we turned around a tenth of a mile beyond Larsen Creek Falls.
IMG_1641The area ahead in the shade is where things started looking a little sketchy.

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These two beach hikes came to a total of 6.6-miles, 5.5 at Oceanside and 1.1 at Short Beach. From Short Beach we drove to Tillamook to try the Tillamook Bay Wetlands hike which I’d found as I was looking through the Oregon Hikers Field Guide. We parked at the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. The field guide entry showed this as a 3.6-mile loop following dikes through wetlands between the Wilson, Trask, and Tillamook Rivers. We were immediately confused due to the field guide mentioning a map and metal gate at the Goodspeed Trailhead but there was neither at the signed parking area.
IMG_1676Apparently there used to be a metal gate here instead of a the rope/chain.

We were pretty sure we’d followed the driving directions though so we stepped over the chain onto the grassy dike and began following it through the wetlands.
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IMG_1685Bald eagles in the tree tops.

IMG_1683Bald eagles

The map in the field guide showed an elongated loop following what Google Maps and the GPS showed as the continuation of Goodspeed Road to the Wilson River then along that river to the Tillamook River where the route looped back along it then the Trask to Sissek Road. The dike we were on though reached a slough where it turned sharply South.
IMG_1686This is where the dike/path turned South. Our best guess is that there has been additional wetland restoration since the entry in the field guide and some of the dikes that the guide route followed have been removed.

We didn’t come up with our theory about what was going on until after we got home. While we were hiking we kept checking the GPS map/track and comparing it to the map in the field guide. We still weren’t sure if we really had started in the right spot given the lack of a metal gate and map at the trailhead or if we’d missed a turn somewhere. We continued to follow the dike system which looped around and after just over a half mile the GPS showed that we were on Sissek Road (now a grassy dike).
IMG_1689We weren’t getting across that.

IMG_1694Somewhere out that way, beyond the slough, was the Wilson River.

IMG_1699Now heading East toward Sissek Road.

IMG_1704At this point we had left Sissek Road which used to extend straight from Goodspeed Road where the signs and rope/chain is in this photo (ahead to the right at the 90-degree turn).

The dike system brought us to another signed parking area we’d pass on the way to the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. This one is just past a one-lane bridge over Hall Slough.
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At this point we were sure we’d started at the correct trailhead and were now convinced we’d missed a turn somewhere near the start of the hike. First we tried walking a grassy track South from this parking area which brought us to another muddy slough, but not before spotting an egret and a great blue heron.
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We backtracked to the parking area and then hiked Goodspeed Road back to the trailhead where I began searching for a different route.
IMG_1714Hawk above Goodspeed Road.

IMG_1677One path led down to Hall Slough ending in mud at it’s bank.

IMG_1716A second path led north on what the GPS showed as a former road but it was too overgrown and flooded to make it far.

We wound up doing just 1.9-miles here including the out-and-back explorations.

It was a fine little hike and we saw a nice little variety of birds, but it was a little disappointing not to be able to see any of the rivers. We had one last stop planned, another short hike I found in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide, the Anderson Hill Loop . The trail begins at Anderson Hill County Park to the right of a metal picnic table.
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The 1.2-mile reverse lollipop loop gains just 130′ as it climbs to a power line corridor on Anderson Hill. The view from the power lines is of course limited due to the power lines, but the trail was in good shape and the forest was nice making for a decent little outing.
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IMG_1730Junction with the spur trail to the power line corridor.

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IMG_1751Footbridge and stairs leading back up to the picnic table.

The four hikes came to just 9.7-miles and 270′ of cumulative elevation gain and included ocean views, waterfalls, forests, wetlands, and ample wildlife.

It was a beautiful day weather wise and great way to end our season. We’ll scale back our hiking for the next 5-6 months, but we plan on getting out at least once a month until our 2024 season kicks off. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Tillamook Area Hikes