For the second time this year we headed east to the Wallowa Mountains for a week of hikes to further our goal of hiking all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” 1st edition (2022). The eastern book is the final of the five areas covered by Sullivan that we need to finish in order to reach our goal of hiking all 100 featured hikes from a single edition of each area (post).
We would be staying in Baker City for the first few nights which is a six-and-a-half-hour drive from Salem so we’d planned for Saturday to simply be a driving day, but on the way we realized we were going to arrive before check-in time. We decided to sneak a quick hike in to kill the time and landed on a short loop at Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area.
The park is located at one of the stops along the Oregon Trail where pioneers could find water (at the nearby springs). Located in the Blue Mountains this was the first forested area along the trail in Oregon. We couldn’t find much information on actual trails in the park, but there was an entry on AllTrails which we used as a guide. It has been our experience that AllTrails is best used as a secondary source of information, but in this case the park’s website didn’t seem to contain a map nor was there one at the Oregon Trail Picnic Area where we parked.

We attempted to follow the AllTrails map, which was a combination of road and trail walking, in a clockwise direction. We picked up a dirt trail near a set of interpretive signs at the day use area.


Memorial to pioneers dedicated by President Harding in 1923.
This path led us back to the park entrance and campground.



The map we had led us through the campground, but it was difficult to tell exactly where we were supposed to be so we did a bit of winding through the campground loops.

We eventually spotted a large signboard and a sign for the “Cabin Loop”.

The Cabin Loop sign pointed up this hill.
We followed the Cabin Loop pointer which led us uphill to the park’s rentable cabins then veered left and followed a dirt path downhill. This path crossed a paved road to a small pullout on the far side where the dirt trail continued.

Thistle
Foam flower
Coneflower
We followed this path uphill and stayed left at the first junction we came to.
There were virtually no signs to indicate what any of the trails were or where they led.
We quickly came to a second junction at an old roadbed. Based on the AllTrails route we wanted to turn right onto the roadbed so that is what we did. While doing research for this trip report I found a photo online of a paper trail map posted in 2018 which shows the “Nature Trail” continuing across the roadbed and swinging out to make a loop back to the roadbed further along. I have no idea if that trail still exists or what condition it is in, but I wish we’d have discovered that map sooner. We stuck to the roadbed which climbed uphill and looped around to an open grass area behind the park’s community building.

We had to duck under this tree.
Mountain lady slippers that had bloomed many weeks ago.
Pearly everlasting
Paintbrush
Thimbleberries
Aster
It was hot (pushing 90 Fahrenheit) which made the climbing less enjoyable.
This was most likely the Nature Trail rejoining from the left.
Not sure if this is native or invasive.
Wedding set up behind the Community Building.
Soon after passing the Community Building we arrived at the Horse Camp where we turned right on a gravel road.

Bee on fireweed.
Horse Camp

The gravel road led us downhill to another parking lot in the day use area. From there we simply followed a path along the road back to our car.

Our version of the loop came to 1.6-miles with approximately 150′ of elevation gain.

This was a nice leg stretch during our long drive which would have been nicer earlier in the year when more of the flowers were blooming, but the scenery was pleasant and the history interesting. It isn’t a quiet hike with I-84 so close by along with the campgrounds, cabins, and other park amenities, but we enjoyed the hike for what it was. From the park we continued on to Baker City where we arrived at our motel just after check-in time and got ourselves settled before the more intense hikes we had planned over the next five days. Happy Trails!




Gooch Falls
The road widened briefly near the pullout that acts as the trailhead.
Delicious red huckleberries provided morning snacks along much of the road and trail.

We forked right when the ancient roadbed headed uphill.


Not Downing Creek Falls, just one of many streams along the mossy hillside flowing into the creek.
Downing Creek Falls


The flat top of Coffin Mountain to the left of the tall trees at center and Bachelor Mountain to the right.
Coffin Mountain
It took us a bit to realize that this was indeed a really old roadbed.

There was sporadic flagging along the creek.
Another flag ahead.
The faint trail running along Downing Creek.
When I lost the path a couple times I just looked for signs like this old log cut for where the tread might be.
I wasn’t expecting to see caution tape. Maybe that’s all the person had because I couldn’t identify any hazard here.
A forested island in Downing Creek.
It was a short climb back up to the road.
Llao Rock and Wizard Island
The docks on Wizard Island.
The views were so good even the golden-mantled ground squirrels were taking them in.
Mt. McLoughlin (
Cassin’s finches
Mount Scott (
Wizard Island’s Fumarole Bay
The Watchman (
Mt. Bailey on the left and Mt. Thielsen (
Smoke from the Middle Fork Fire burning inside the park boundary.
At this pull out we got out and hiked a little of the Rim Trail. I decided to just continue on to
Western pasqueflower seed heads.
Silvery raillardella
Hillman Peak (
The Watchman and Hillman Peak
Dwarf lupine

From left to right: Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak (
Our shuttle arriving at the docks below.


The boat traveled at about 35mph so I didn’t have too many chances to take photos. The exception was when we had to briefly circle back to retrieve someone’s hat that had flown off into the lake.
Nearing the island.
The trails shared tread for the first tenth of a mile. (Toilets were to the right.)


The Watchman and Hillman Peak from the trail.
These two were setting a crisp pace and the only reason I was able to keep up was because they would occasionally stop for pictures and to admire the views.
The trail was well graded keeping the 750′ climb from ever feeling too steep.
Buckwheat
Paintbrush
The summit crater also known as the Witches Cauldron.
Mt. Scott from the loop.
Llao Rock
Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak
Crater Lake lodge on the rim to the right of Garfield Peak.
Crater Lake lodge.
Hikers across the crater starting the loop.
Looking down toward the dock area.
The Watchman and Hillman Peak.
Looking toward Cleetwood Cove.
Pool in the lava flow.
Dwarf alpinegold
Another boat tour heading around the island.



Heading toward Fumarole Bay.



Fumarole Bay. Note the person fishing on the rocks to the right.
Fumarole Bay
Stream flowing into Crater Lake.
Hillman Peak

Bleeding heart












Here comes our ride.
Arriving back at the cove.


Track including the boat rides.
My Wizard Island track.







































































View after coming back down.

The tramway from the top.
Pointer for the Royal Purple Overlook (right) and Summit Overlook (left).
Penstemon
Heading out to the Royal Purple Overlook.
They do hold weddings up on the mountain.
Lewis flax
Mountain coyote mint
The Hurwal Divide, Point Joseph and Ruby Peak from left to right.
Pete’s Point, West Aneroid Peak, Eagle Cap the furthest away (
Closer look at Eagle Cap.
Craig Mountain and the Matterhorn (
East Peak
Pano that Heather took with her phone.
Buckwheat
Pointer for the Summit Overlook.
View from the Summit Overlook. Heather is standing on the Royal Purple Overlook.
Buek’s groundsel
Point Joseph
East Peak as I neared the Summit Overlook.
The Seven Devils poking up above the smoke from Idaho.
Seven Devils
Mount Melissa to the left and East Peak straight ahead.
The 4-way junction.
East Peak from the 4-way junction.

Mountain bluebird
Climbing to the saddle.
The view from the saddle.
Wood blocking the lower end of the “short-cut”.
Looking back at the Summit Overlook during one of my several breaks during the climb up.
There were a few obstacles to avoid along the climb as well.
The Royal Purple Overlook from the trail.
Up, up I go.
Golden-mantled ground squirrel watching me navigate some blowdown.
The views helped keep my mind off the climbing.
The second saddle in sight.
The angle was enough different from the saddle that I could see a couple of additional peaks.
The Matterhorn on the left and now Sacajawea Peak behind the Hurwal Divide to the Matterhorns right.
The saddle provided a brief level stretch before the trail launched steeply uphill again.

East Peak
Lots of buckwheat along this section.
Buckwheat and lupine above the trail.
The fork. According to Sullivan the righthand fork peters out in about 0.2-miles and then it’s possible to scramble up East Peak in another three quarters of a mile. I went left heading for the spring.
The McCully Creek Trail which we hiked a couple of days earlier (
A phacelia
Lyall’s Goldenweed
Wallflower
Looking back at the trail.
Flowers near the springs.
Shrubby cinquefoil surrounded by bistort and mountain death-camas.
Mountain death-camas and bistort
Looking up at the springs.
Monkeyflower
There were several smaller streams below East Peak.
Aneroid Mountain
Ground squirrel
View from my turn around point.
Looking back at my route to the second saddle.

Dusty maidens near the springs.
Heading down to the saddle.
Cairn at the saddle.
Milbert’s tortoiseshell
Pale agoseris
Climbing back up to the 4-way junction.
Back on the Summit Loop.
Crossing the service road coming up from McCully Creek.
Mountain Heather
Pointer for the Valley Overlook.
Spur trail to the Valley Overlook.
Flag at the Valley Overlook.
Wallowa Lake below the Valley Overlook.
Wallowa Lake
East Peak peaking up over the trees.

Wallowa Paintbrush
The upper terminal.
Apparently Heather was busy making a friend while I was visiting the springs even though she did not feed any animals.
The straight line is the tram ride.

Even at 6am on a Thursday the trailhead parking was nearly full.
This was a neat feature.
We both counted our steps, for me it was 50 and Heather 60.
The Lostine River.
Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness just before the trails split.
Trail sign at the fork.
Bridge over the East Fork Lostine River.
East Fork Lostine River
The storm overnight had provided a little much needed rain.
Huckleberries (I’d already picked the ripe ones.)

Elkhorn Peak
Monkshood

Some of the river channels were very calm and crystal clear.
We passed through a section of bent and snapped trees which were probably a result of an avalanche.

Glacier Mountain
Looking back at the other side of Elkhorn Peak.
Nuttal’s linanthus
Looking back down one of the steeper sections. We passed another couple heading out along this section.
Looking up the Copper Creek drainage. Glacier Mountain on the left and Elkhorn Peak on the right.
Off-trail waterfall. We could hear this from the trail, and it was a fairly easy bushwack to get a good view.
The river crossing.

Yellow columbine
A little hazy looking toward the Sun.

Elephants head
Unnamed creek
An easier crossing of the river here.





First view of Minam Lake.
Minam Lake
Common mergansers
Needle Point is the peak in the distance to the far left.
Shooting stars
We could have stared at the rocks along the ridges for hours.
Heading back.
Violet
Groundsquirrel
Robin
Fritillary
Orange agoseris
The fire was burning up in that basin somewhere.
The talus section in the afternoon.
Spirea

Butterflies and moths were out in force.
Police car moth and another interesting looking pollinator (out of focus).

Prince’s pine
Back at the junction with the East Fork Lostine River Trail.
Left for hikers and right for stock.
We managed to get started about ten minutes before 6am.


Bugbane and paintbrush
A 2022 wildfire burned the first 3-miles of the trail and left the old footbridge damaged. A steep scramble trail led down to it.
Big Sheep Creek

Paintbrush and lupine
Wildfire smoke filling the valley behind us.




Phacelia
Butterfly on buckwheat.
Some of the trees survived the fire.
White mariposa lilies in a meadow along the trail.
Junction with the Wing Ridge Trail.
North Fork Big Sheep Creek
Lewis Monkeyflower along the creek.


Canada milk-vetch
Grass-of-parnassus
Bog orchid
Checker-mallow
Bee heading for some monkshood.
Me in some fireweed.

Getting eyed by a western tanager.


When fires burn too hot they damage the soil which makes it difficult for all plants to obtain the necessary nutrients to grow.
A few plants had been able to take hold.
A healthy patch of paintbrush.
Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek
Monkeyflower
Brook saxifrage
Another severely burned section.
The Bonny Lakes Trail forking to the right off of the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail.
Wildflowers along the Bonny Lakes Trail.
The wildflowers were profuse along this stretch of trail.
American sawwort
Police car moths
Larkspur and fleabane
The trail recrossed the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek.
Orange agoseris


Taper tip onions
White mariposa lilies


False hellebore
Checker-mallow
Penstemon on the outcrop.
Mountain larkspur
Pika!
Gathering plants for the Winter store.


On the steep climb.
Mountain heather
Ground squirrel
The creek was below between the ridges here.

Stonecrop
Swamp onions

Wallowa paintbrush
Aneroid Mountain and Lower Bonny Lake.
Aneroid Mountain to the right and an unnamed peak on the left.


Shrubby cinquefoil
Cutleaf anemone seed heads.
Possibly a sandwort.

Upper Bonny Lake
Lower Bonny Lake
Aneroid Mountain from the knoll.

Spotted sandpiper
Elephants head

White mariposa lily and buckwheat
Jacob’s ladder
Checker-mallow and white mariposa lilies along the trail.
Scouler’s woolly-weed

Gentians

Goldenrod and yarrow
Nuttal’s linanthus


North Fork Big Sheep Creek
The haze from the morning had improved now that the Sun had moved on from the east.
Looking down at the un-damaged bridge over a side stream.
Yellow columbine
Big Sheep Creek.



East Peak
Spreading dogbane
The start of the McCully Creek Trail (to the left).






Paintbrush and pussytoes along with the lupine.
Pink pyrola
Monkshood
Tall bulebells
Penstemon
Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
Yellow columbine
Arnica and fleabane
Coiled lousewort
The McCully Creek crossing.
Elephants head at the crossing.
Paintbrush in the meadow.
Fleabane (or aster) in the meadow.
Wallowa paintbrush
Cusick’s speedwell

The first blowdown we encountered. 

Heading cross-country to McCully Creek.
Where I recrossed the creek.
Heading down to a flat opening which could serve as a campsite.
Arriving at the first meadow.
Aneroid Mountain

A few flowers in the meadow.
Bistort
Shooting stars

Looking down toward where I left the trail to bushwack to the meadow.
Jacob’s ladder
Orange agoseris
Fritillary
Crescent
Bog orchid
Tortoiseshell
Red-breasted nuthatch




The gate on the service road had been opened at some point.
Swallowtail


Canadian milk-vetch
The Falls Creek Trail on the right. 


Mock orange
The Falls Creek crossing.
Twin Peaks from Falls Creek.
Geranium
Paintbrush

A paintbrush hiding in fleabane.
Robin
The trail crossed a rocky area caused by an avalanche.
Doe with one of her two fawns that were down at the creek at the avalanche area. 
Mountain death-camas
The Hurwal Divide to the left of Sacajawea Peak.
Rosy pussytoes
Hurricane Divide (south)

Deadman Creek
Western tanager
Hurricane Creek



Slick Rock Creek flowing down from the right in the distance. 


The creek crossing.
Harebells and stonecrop
Paintbrush below the falls.
Arnica
Wallowa paintbrush, yellow columbine, milk-vetch, and northern sweetvetch.
Faint rainbow in the falls.
Butterfly on Rocky Mountain goldenrod.
Yellow fleabane
This may be common butterwort, but I’m not positive.
Yellow columbine
Spider hunting a moth. There was a brief scuffle, but the moth escaped unharmed. 
Penstemon

Sagebrush mariposa lily

Despite all the wildfires the views were pretty good as long as the Sun was at our backs.


Nuttal’s linathus
Wood nymph
There was haze to our backs though.
Rose along the trail.
A Sulphur butterfly.
A pale crescent on fleabane.
It was warm and smokey at the viewpoint.

Yarrow
White mariposa lily
Aster
Sulphur buckwheat
Scarlet gilia
Bee visiting some penstemon
Imnaha River canyon
A small section of the loop was lost in a 2022 wildfire.
The other end of the missing trail.
One of several interpretive signs along the loop.
Nettle-leaf giant hyssop
This appeared to be the last of the elkhorn clarkia in bloom.
Looking down wasn’t bad, but we couldn’t really make out any of the mountain peaks in the distance.
Taper-tip onions
A smokey Sun was heating things up fast.
Grouse
One of a pair of hawks.
The Hat Point Lookout from the parking area.
Paintbrush
The start of the loop.
Fireweed
The lookout staffer?
Sunlight reflecting off of the Snake River in Hells Canyon.
Hidden in the haze are the Seven Devils mountains in Idaho.
Penstemon
The tower was closed to the public due to safety concerns.

Hells Canyon is deeper than the Grand Canyon from its highest point, 9,393′ He Devil in Idaho at 8,043′ from the river. The depth from Hat Point to the river is 5,632′.
Mountain coyote mint
Lewis flax




The tread was faint in spots amid the patches of wildflowers.
There was a small rock outcrop at the ridge end.
This is where we turned around not wanting to lose anymore elevation and have to climb back up on what was already an uncomfortably warm day. As it turns out we were just about at the boundary of the
The lookout from our turn around point.


Hat Point Trail sign near the quarters.
This trailhead sign was in a large parking area near the quarters, but there were “No Parking” signs along the road here.
Lupine

Imnaha River canyon
Imnaha from the Five Mile Overlook.