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Hiking

Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountain – 07/04/2024

A heat dome was forecasted to arrive on Independence Day with the hottest temperatures expected over the weekend. We were hopeful that we could sneak our traditional 4th of July hike in before the heat arrived as it had been a fairly mild week leading up to the holiday. The hike we had planned was to take the Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountain starting at the Olallie North Trailhead.
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We had visited Horsepasture Mountain back in 2018 via the Saddle Trail (post) which is a shorter approach by approximately five miles with 1000′ less elevation gain. Shorter still is starting at the Horsepasture Trailhead, but that is a longer drive and would have meant missing out on the section of the Olallie Trail that we hadn’t hiked before.
IMG_8259Trail map at the trailhead.

From the trailhead the Olallie Trail switchbacked up a ridge through a mixed forest before straightening out and following the ridge SE.
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IMG_8280Rhododendron

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Scouler’s bluebells

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IMG_8303Twinflower and fringed pinesap

IMG_8306Sugar sticks

A section of the trail passed through the 2017 Avenue fire scar, but the tread was in good shape and all trees were cleared from the trail.
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Mt. Washington was the first high Cascade Peak we obtained a view of.

IMG_8338North and Middle Sister followed next.

IMG_8355The trail spent some time on top of the ridge as well as each side as it gradually climbed.

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Tiger lilies

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Washington lilies were blooming along a section of the trail.

IMG_8377Washington lilies

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IMG_8398Paintbrush

IMG_8400Northern phlox

IMG_8403Penstemon

IMG_8412Garter snake

IMG_8416Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

IMG_8420Entering trees that survived the 2017 fire.

IMG_8423The hillsides that the trail traverses are pretty steep.

IMG_8422Common whipplea

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Regaining the ridge top.

IMG_8436Better view of Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack with Maxwell Butte (post) and South Cinder Peak (post) in between.

Shortly after leaving the fire scar the trail began to steepen a bit.
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IMG_8441Bunchberry, queen’s cup, and foam flower.

Near the 3.5-mile mark the trail crossed an abandoned forest road and steepened again
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It had been warming up quickly and Heather and I had decided to split a little below this road crossing. Despite not being able to spell “Heather” without “Heat” it is her hiking nemesis. We set a time that would be the latest I headed back at and chose the road crossing as a meeting point. Heather planned on continuing but wasn’t sure how far she would feel comfortable going. We set the road as a meeting point so that if she didn’t make it up Horsepasture Mountain before I headed back I would know I’d missed here somewhere along the trail if I got to the road and she wasn’t there.

A tenth of a mile beyond the road crossing the O’Leary Mountain Trail joined from the right.
IMG_8461We had hiked to MacDuff Mountain on the O’Leary Trail just a few weeks earlier (post).

Beyond the junction the Olallie Trail leveled out then slowly descended 200′ over the next 1.1 miles to a junction with the Saddle Trail. The hillsides along this section were fairly exposed to the Sun which warmed things up even more, but also provided some nice wildflower displays.
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This section also had a few smaller trees down over it.

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IMG_8469Columbine

IMG_8480Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, and Scott Mountain (post).

IMG_8482Trillium

IMG_8486Valerian

IMG_8491Wallflower and buckwheat

IMG_8505Purple larkspur, yellow cinquefoil, and white sub-alpine mariposa lilies

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IMG_8513Paintbrush and lupine

IMG_8518North and Middle Sister with Horsepasture Mountain on the right.

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IMG_8530Oregon bluebells

IMG_8532Penstemon

IMG_8535Butterfly on bistort

IMG_8538Musk monkeyflower

IMG_8545A stalk of beargrass along the trail.

IMG_8552Jacob’s-ladder

IMG_8559Bane berry and solomonseal

IMG_8560Vanilla leaf

IMG_8564The Saddle Trail arriving from the right.

One hundred yards downhill from the Saddle Trail junction I arrived at a 4-way junction with the Horsepasture Mountain Trail.
IMG_8566Downhill to the left is the Horsepasture Trailhead, uphill to the left is Horsepasture Mountain and the Olallie Trail continues along the righthand fork.

From the junction the Horsepasture Mountain Trail climbs over 850′ in a little under a mile and a half. The trail begins with a steady traverse along the side of Horsepasture Mountain before switching back after a litte more than three quarters of a mile.
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IMG_8570Arnica, bunchberry and vanilla leaf

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IMG_8584Fleabane

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Often switchbacks allow for a more gradual climb but here the trail launched steeply uphill through small meadows switching back two more times before heading steeply up the open shoulder of Horsepasture Mountain.
IMG_8595It was not a big year for beargrass but if you pick the right year there is an impressive amount along this trail.

IMG_8599Second snake of the day. I wound up seeing three on the day which was two more than other trail users, excluding Heather.

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If you look closely you might pick out the blue shirt worn by the only other hiker I encountered.

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Mt. Bachelor from the shoulder of Horsepasture Mountain.

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Final pitch to the top.

The wildflowers were near peak, and the hillside was literally buzzing with pollinators busy flying from flower to flower. The views extended from Mt. Hood in the north and south to Diamond Peak.
IMG_8610Pollinator photobomb in the upper left.

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Diamond Peak to the south.

IMG_8615The Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor on the horizon.

IMG_8614Lupine, bluehead gilia, paintbrush, and pussytoes?

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IMG_8623The former lookout site with Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson behind.

IMG_8625The summit

IMG_8629Survey marker

IMG_8628Diamond Peak from the summit.

IMG_8632The Three Sisters

IMG_8631Mt. Washington, Scott Mountain, Belknap Crater (post), and Black Crater (post).

IMG_8630Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack

I had passed the other gentleman on the switchbacks, but we spoke briefly at the summit. He remarked how it isn’t often that you get both a great view and peak wildflowers on the same hike in Oregon. We both searched out spots with a little shade for a much-needed respite from the heat. While I put on a new pair of socks and had a snack I was able to message with Heather who was almost to the switchbacks. I wandered around the summit for a few minutes admiring the flowers and then got another message from Heather that she was wisely not going to attempt the final steep climb so I headed back to her.
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IMG_8637Scarlet gilia

IMG_8638Buckwheat and bluehead gilia

IMG_8641An aster or fleabane

IMG_8644Paintbrush with penstemon in the background.

IMG_8647Butterfly on bluehead gilia

IMG_8649Butterfly and bees

IMG_8651I believe this is a persius duskywing (Erynnis persius)

IMG_8652Vetch?

IMG_8657This outcrop is just slightly lower than the summit.

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IMG_8665Cliff beardtongue on the rocks with the Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor behind.

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IMG_8694Phlox

IMG_8697Bastard toadflax

I met Heather at the switchbacks and we headed back together. We stopped at the 4-way junction for a short break which I used to hike 50 yards down to the Horsepasture Trailhead.
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The 200′ climb from the 4-way junction to the O’Leary Trail junction was hot, but thankfully that was it as far as climbing went for the day and the remaining 3.5-miles were downhill. The combination of going downhill and a slight breeze provided a little relief to the heat.
IMG_8720Passing the Saddle Trail on the way back.

IMG_8721Eight-spotted forester

IMG_8727Blue-eyed Mary

IMG_8728Horsepasture Mountain

IMG_8729Waterleaf

IMG_8743Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Washington

IMG_8749North and Middle Sister

IMG_8768Larkspur

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Anemones and spotted coralroot

IMG_8807Pink pyrola

IMG_8808Clodius parnassian on a tiger lily.

IMG_8811Fireweed

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The lower portion of the trail included some madrone trees.

IMG_8826It was right around 90 degrees at the trailhead when we got back at 2:30pm.

I had expected this hike to be a little under 12 miles with approximately 3200′ of elevation gain. My GPS ended up with 12.5 miles, most of which can be attributed to my wandering around at the summit. The detour down to the Horsepasture Trailhead added less than a tenth of a mile.
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This was a great hike that only missed spectacular due to how hot it was. The Olallie Trail was in good shape and the climb was extremely well graded. The view from Horsepasture Mountain is a good one and hitting the peak wildflower display only enhances it. We were really shocked to have only seen the one other person, but maybe, just maybe most other people are smarter than we are. With the heat dome expected to continue for several days the 2024 wildflower show will most likely be over quickly, but there is always next year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountian

Categories
Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Olallie and Lowder Mountains – 09/01/2019

For our final outing of Labor Day Weekend we set our sights on a pair of peaks in the Three Sisters Wilderness. Both the Lowder Mountain Upper Trailhead and Pat’s Saddle Trailhead (for Olallie Mountain) are located just 2 miles apart along Forest Road 1993. These were two more featured hikes from Sullivan’s 4th edition Central Cascades guidebook that we had yet to do. (Olallie Mountain was removed from the featured hikes in the 5th edition due to a 2017 fire that burned much of the route.) On their own the hike to driving time ratios didn’t pan out, but doing them both on the same day would, and as it turns out FR 1993 was in excellent shape allowing for a driving time closer to 2 1/2 hours versus the nearly 3 hours that Google predicted.

We drove south to Eugene and took Highway 126 four miles east of Blue River where we turned right on FR 19 to Cougar Dam. After turning left on FR 1993 and crossing the dam we followed the road 11.2 miles to the Pat’s Saddle Trailhead.
We chose to start with Olallie Mountain for a couple of reasons, first we thought that the lack of tree cover due to the fire might make this a warmer hike later in the day and second it was the longer of the two hikes. There are a couple of trails that leave from this trailhead. The French Pete Creek Trail is the first trail on the right. The upper section of this trail is not maintained (according the Forest Service webpage) and the forest around the lower section was impacted by fires in both 2017 and 2018. We hiked the first 5 miles of the trail from the lower trailhead prior to the fires in 2015 (post)
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The trail we were taking on this trip was the second one on the right, the Olallie Trail.
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This trail promptly enters the Three Sisters Wilderness amid old growth that escaped the fire.
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The signs of the fire could be seen after about a third of a mile.
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At the half mile mark we arrived at a small stream flowing from Wolverine Lake which was about a quarter mile uphill on our right. The forest on the right hand side of the trail had burned pretty good while the left hand side had fared much better. There was already plenty of green vegetation growing amid the snags on the hillside though.
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20190901_073350Cone flower

Sullivan had mentioned visiting Wolverine Lake by heading uphill cross country after crossing over the stream but the vegetation here looked pretty thick so we waited until we had climbed a bit beyond the stream and angled back toward the lake.
IMG_8191Cross country to Wolverine Lake.

There were a fair number of trees down from the fire so it wasn’t too difficult to reach the lake, but it was tricky trying to get a good look at it due to the brushy shore.
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It looked like there might have been a better vantage point around the lake to our right, but it wasn’t worth fighting through the brush and fallen trees to try and reach it so we settled for the view we had and headed back to the Olallie Trail. From above, the route down along the creek looked much more appealing and we wound up taking a track much closer to what Sullivan had shown on his map to arrive back on trail. Once we were back on trail we turned right and passed through a patch of thimbleberry bushes encroaching on the trail.
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We emerged from the thimbleberries and rounded a ridge end where the forest became a bit more open and many of the trees had survived the fire.
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A sooty grouse caught our attention as it crossed the trail ahead of us.
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The trail climbed gradually along the hillside and we marveled at the varying effects of the fire and how the forest was in different stages of recovery already.
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IMG_8215Baneberry

IMG_8217Monkshood

There were also some views that might not have been there if some of the trees hadn’t burned.
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IMG_8201South Sister

IMG_8220Middle and North Sister

IMG_8223Mt. Washington

IMG_8226Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

The line of clouds obstructing the view of the mountains wasn’t exactly a welcome sight, but we could at least see some of them and it was early so maybe they would eventually burn off.

A little over 2 miles from the trailhead we arrived at a junction in a grassy saddle.
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The Olallie Trail continued straight passing an old guard station site at Olallie Meadows in .9 miles then continuing deeper (and fainter) into the Three Sisters Wilderness eventually ending at Horse Lake (post). We turned right though, onto the Olallie Mountain Trail.
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This trail began with a reasonably gradual climb past a series of meadows where a few late blooming flowers remained.
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IMG_8240Aster and pearly everlasting

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IMG_8252Columbine

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The trail briefly leveled out on top of ridge where the fire had burned intensely in some areas while sparing trees in others.
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After the brief respite from climbing the trail steepened below the summit of Olallie Mountain and began to wrap up and around its rocky western face.
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The tread along the steep hillside here was a little sketchy in part due to the fire but we made our way up to the summit. The remains of the Olallie Mountain lookout tower still stand on the summit having been covered by firefighters to protect it from the blaze.
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The three hundred and sixty degree view was impressive and would have been more so if not for the presence of clouds to the north and in front of many of the cascade peaks. On top of that our early ascent left the Sun in a less than ideal overhead position for lighting.
IMG_8306_stitchParts of the Cascades from Mt. Jefferson to the NE to Mt. Bachelor to the SE.

IMG_8302Mt. Jefferson was still tangled up in the clouds.

IMG_8300Just a peak at Mt. Washington (which was more than we could see of Three Fingered Jack)

IMG_8297Middle and North Sister behind The Husband

IMG_8296South Sister

IMG_8295Broken Top

Things were a little less cloudy to the south where Cowhorn Mountain (post) and Mt. Thielsen (post) seemed to be cloud free while Diamond Peak wasn’t so lucky.
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IMG_8282Cowhorn Mountain and Mt. Thielsen

IMG_8291Diamond Peak

We were able to identify the cliffs of flat topped Lowder Mountain, our next stop, to the NW.
IMG_8312Lowder Mountain to the left of the tree in the foreground.

IMG_8317Lowder Mountain

After watching the clouds pass by (but not leave) for awhile we headed back down. We had passed a single backpacker on the way up and on the way down we encountered a trio of hikers making their way up. When we got back to the stream below Wolverine Lake we spotted a frog (no wolverines though).
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We completed our 8 mile hike here and drove back the two miles to the Lowder Mountain Upper Trailhead and parked at a pullout near the trailhead signboard. The signboard announced three trails: the Quaking Aspen, Lowder Mountain, and Walker Creek Trails.
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We weren’t paying close attention as we set off on a trail heading for a wilderness to the left of the signboard.
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Our first clue that we were on the wrong trail should have been the location of the trail signs on the signboard but away we went following the Quaking Aspen Trail downhill parallel to FR 1993. We had a feeling something might be off but a quick glance at the GPS showed that we were almost to some switchbacks which matched up with Sullivan’s map but we were surprised that they were headed downhill and not up (the one complaint we have about Sullivan’s maps are that they are not topographic so we can’t always tell when a trail is climbing or dropping). We were zoomed in too far to see the other trail behind us that switchbacked uphill. Just after turning on the first of the switchbacks Heather figured it out and got us turned in the right direction but not until we’d covered a third of a mile.

We hiked back uphill to the trailhead and looked at the signboard and area more closely. Sure enough there was another trail and wilderness to the right of the signboard (the side listing the Lowder Mountain and Walker Creek Trails).
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We now set off on the Lowder Trail and began switchbacking uphill through an old growth forest.
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After a quarter mile of serious climbing the trail leveled out a bit (and straightened out) as it traversed along a hillside. We soon got a quick glimpse of Olallie Mountain across the valley.
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For the next 1 3/4 miles the trail alternated between meadows and forest before arriving at a junction in one of the meadows.
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IMG_8364Skipper

IMG_8365This reminded us of a torture device.

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IMG_8372This meadow had a lot of buckwheat.

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IMG_8377Olallie Mountain again.

IMG_8380The lookout tower on Olallie Mountain

IMG_8381Diamond Peak had shed its cloud cover momentarily.

IMG_8384Diamond Peak

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IMG_8386Pollinators got to pollinate.

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This junction marked the start of the Walker Creek Trail which climbed up through the meadow to the right. This was actually the trail to take in order to reach the viewpoint atop Lowder Mountain.
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The Lowder Mountain Trail continued on straight but beyond the junction is no longer maintained due to “lack of use”.
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A series of 12 switchbacks led steeply up through the meadow and forest to a large meadow atop Lowder Mountain.
IMG_8394The trail heading up through some thimbleberry.

IMG_8397Butterfly

IMG_8405Another skipper

IMG_8412This guy was the size of my pinky.

IMG_8399A few scarlet gilia still in bloom.

IMG_8415Pearly everlasting at the edge of the large meadow.

We followed a well worn path across the broad summit to the edge of the large meadow where it turned right passing along the tree line.
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Like the Lowder Mountain Trail the Walker Creek Trail is no longer maintained beyond the meadow. The clear path along the impressively large meadow is a user trail to the viewpoint above Karl and Ruth Lakes.
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IMG_8427Karl & Ruth Lakes

The clouds were still a bit of an issue but it was now late enough in the day for the lighting to be much better.
IMG_8433Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack with Horsepasture Mountain (post) in the foreground.

IMG_8431Mt. Washington

IMG_8440North and Middle Sister

IMG_8438South Sister and Broken Top

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We made our way south along the cliffs to reach a view of Mt. Bachelor.
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IMG_8456Mt. Bachelor

In addition to the great views there was an interesting little rock feature that looked a lot like a head of some kind.
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We took a good break here before heading back. On the return trip we discovered that we had actually spent a decent amount of time losing elevation traversing along the hillside on the way to the Walker Creek Trail junction. It had been so gradual that we hadn’t noticed but it was evident that we were going uphill a lot more than we’d expected once we were back on the Lowder Mountain Trail. There were quite a few butterflies out searching for the remaining flowers which gave us something to focus on (in addition to eating quite a few ripe thimbleberries).
IMG_8496Butterfly with a small crab spider on the next flower head to the right.

Between taking the wrong trail from the trailhead and wandering around at the viewpoint we managed to turn a 5.6 mile hike into 6.8 miles making our total for the day 14.8 miles. The elevation gains were roughly 1400′ for Olallie Mountain and 900′ for Lowder Mountain. The views were great from both peaks and we were already talking about a return trip earlier in the Summer to see what all the meadows might look like earlier in the year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Olallie and Lowder Mountains

Categories
Hiking McKenzie River Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Horsepasture Mountain

After our last two hikes coming from Matt Reeder’s 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region we went back to work on our goal of completing all of the featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s 100 Hikes guidebooks. We are just over 75% through his 100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades 4th edition and had our eyes set on checking off one more with a visit to the former lookout site atop Horsepasture Mountain.

The hike up Horsepasture Mountain provided a bit of a logistical challenge for a couple of reasons. First is our self imposed guideline of trying not to spend more time in the car than we do on the trail and the 1.4 mile length of the Horsepasture Mountain Trail meant we’d need to come up with some additional trail time. The second issue was the continued closure of a section of Forest Road 1993 which adds nearly 45 minutes to the drive to the Horsepasture Trailhead. Prior to the closure the drive to that trailhead would still have been over two and a half hours but with the detour Google put the time at three hours and fifteen minutes. We also have a rule against driving over three hours to any trailheads for day hikes so I began looking for alternatives. A little online research led me to a solution, the Saddle Trail which is part of the O’Leary Trail Complex.

The trail begins at the East Fork Upper Trailhead which brought the drive time from Salem under two and half hours. We parked at a small pullout on the right side of FR 1993 across from the signed Saddle Trail.
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There was a caution sign on the post regarding a burn area but that was referencing portions of the O’Leary Trail Complex burned in 2017 which did not include either the Saddle Trail or the Horsepasture Mountain Trail. We were facing a nearly 1700′ climb over the next two miles to a junction at Horsepasture Saddle. Luckily the trail was well graded and in good shape as it switchbacked up through a green forest.
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Wildflowers in the forest included a few washington lilies, penstemon, northern phlox and tiger lilies along with the typical group of white flowers.
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As far as markers went on this trail it did cross closed Forest Road 590 after .4 miles and passed a single rocky viewpoint near the 1.75 mile mark.
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Near its end the Saddle Trail passed through a small meadow with a few remaining wildflowers.
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The trail ended at a signed three way junction with the Olallie Trail.
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Here we turned right passing through thimbleberry bushes for a little over 100 yards to a four-way junction.
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We turned onto the Horsepasture Mountain Trail which climbed gradually at first.
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Flowers here included lupine, lousewort, wallflower, valerian, and fleabane.
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After nearly three quarters of a mile of gradual climbing the trail steepened as it climbed through meadows with beargrass. It wasn’t quite the beargrass display we had been hoping for but there were some nice blooms along the way.
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Other flowers in these meadows included coneflower, owls clover, and cat’s ear lilies.
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After 1.2 miles the Horsepasture Mountain Trail began to climb the mountain’s south side through a drier wildflower meadow.
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The Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor were visible to the east as was snowy Diamond Peak to the south.
IMG_8304Middle Sister

IMG_8323Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor

IMG_8326Diamond Peak

There was a nice variety of wildflowers on display.
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A large cairn and remains of the old lookout marked the summit.
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The view from the summit included Cascade peaks from Mt. Hood to the barely visible tip of Mt. Thielsen.
IMG_8337Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Washington.

IMG_8381The Three Sisters (with the top of Broken Top over South Sister’s southern shoulder) and Mt. Bachelor.

IMG_8345Diamond Peak(Mt. Thielsen is out there too)

IMG_8385Cowhorn Mountain on the left and the tip of Mt. Thielsen to the right.

We took a nice long break at the summit enjoying the views and the flowers. Birds and insects were our only company.
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The only negative was seeing the fire scars left in the Three Sisters Wilderness from the awful 2017 fire season. We returned the way we’d come passing two other sets of hikers making their way up the Horsepasture Mountain Trail. We also ran into a family of grouse. A single chick flew across the trail then mama landed in the trail.
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Her display of feathers and her posturing let us know that she had other chicks in the area so we stopped and waited until two more flew across the trail.
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She then flew up into a tree to let us pass. The remainder of the hike was uneventful as we descended the Saddle Trail back to the trailhead. The seven mile hike and extended stay on the summit kept us within our driving to hiking time ratio but more importantly the hike had been really nice. Good views and wildflowers combined with solitude made for another great day in the Willamette National Forest. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Horsepasture Mountain