***Please note that the access road was washed out in December 2023, and as of May 2024 there is no ETA to restoring access.***
As we continue to navigate this COVID-19 reality we decided to finally make an attempt at visiting the Valley of the Giants, a stand of old growth forest in the Coastal Range. Even though the Valley of the Giants is a featured hike in Williams L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” and we would need to complete this hike someday if we were ever going to complete our goal of hiking all 500 of the featured hikes (post) we had thus far avoided this hike for a two reasons. The first reason was that at only 1.5 miles long this hike violated our made up rule of not spending more time driving than hiking on a day trip. Despite only being 31 miles, as the crow flies, from our house the drive to the trailhead would be around an hour and forty-five minutes.
The second reason was that we’d heard it was sometimes difficult to reach the trailhead if you could even find it at all. The area (and much of the Coast Range) is a checkerboard of public and private land with most of the private land being owned by timber companies and heavily logged. From time to time the timber companies close the roads used to reach the trailhead due to logging activity. The logging activity also means that there are often new roads or changes to existing roads that are not on maps making them unreliable.
With social distancing in mind we thought now was as good as a time as ever to finally give this hike a go. First we needed to make sure that the hike was indeed open so during the week I contacted the Northwest Oregon District Office of the BLM via email to confirm. They responded that same day saying that it was open and also attached two pdfs. One was a brochure for the trail as well as detailed driving directions and the second contained phone numbers for the timber companies to check on any potential closures they might have in place. We didn’t wind up calling the timber companies opting to just take the chance that the roads would be open.
With the hike being only 1.5 miles we also looked for some other options along the way and in the back of Sullivan’s book was an additional hike just outside of Falls City, which we would be driving through, along the Little Luckiamute River. He described the hike as an “easy mile and an additional 1.5 faint miles to a brushy clearcut”. The guidebook had us park at a locked gate at a bridge over the Little Luckiamute River along Blackrock Road.

Little Luckiamute River from the bridge.
The book then mentions crossing the bridge on foot and continuing up the road 200 yards to the trail on the left and shows the BLM as the land manager. When we walked up to the gate though we were met with posted signs from Weyerhaeuser stating that permits were required for all recreation beyond that point. We did walk up the road a bit to see if we could find the start of the trail to see if maybe the it was in fact on BLM land and it was only the road and possibly the land on the right hand side that was Weyehaeuser owned. Our Garmin appeared to show the location of the trail but we walked a little past where it was showing and never saw any signs of one so we quickly returned to our car. Heather had noticed another gated road just before the spot where we parked heading in the same direction that the trail on the opposite side of the river would have taken us so we walked over to it to check it out. There were signs here too but it wasn’t Weyerhaeuser land it was owned by Hancock Forest Management and they didn’t require permits for recreational use.

We decided to hike up this road instead. We wanted to kill some time before heading to the Valley of the Giants because the Oregon Hikers Field Guide entry for the hike mentioned visiting between 8am and 5pm to avoid gates that might be opened and closed daily. It was a little before 6am when we’d discovered that our plan A was a no go so to kill enough time we set a 45 minute goal for hiking out along this road before turning around.

A quarter mile up the road we followed a well developed use trail down to the river.



Salmonberry blossoms along the river.
After checking out the river we continued up the road until we arrived at a 1.5 mile marker spray painted in orange on a stump. We were at almost 43 minutes and in the middle of an uphill climb so we decided that the marker was a good definitive turnaround spot.
Our turnaround spot.
We returned the way we’d come arriving back at the car close to 7:20. Even though it wasn’t the trail that we’d planned on hiking this was a pleasant little hike and probably very similar to what we would have seen on the trail itself. There were a number of different flowers, slugs, a snail, a millipede, and a rough skinned newt along the way not to mention the sounds of the river and lots of signing birds.

Cinquefoil and youth-on-age

One of several little creeks along the road.
Iris
Fairybells
Forest along the road.
Bleeding heart
Rough skinned newt escaping into the grass.
Lupine
Columbine
We drove back into Falls City and stopped at a viewpoint along Parry St. to check out the Falls City Falls.

Unfortunately you can’t get a good look at the waterfall from this side of the river and it wasn’t any apparent access on the opposite side where a clearer view could have been had.
Little Luckiamute above the falls.
Falls City Falls
Lower end of Falls City Falls.
That quick stop killed a little more time before we began our quest for the Valley of the Giants. The entry in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide for the trailhed begins with “Here follows one of the most convoluted approaches to a trailhead you will ever endure:”. We were primarily using the BLM directions with Sullivan’s being secondary. (All three provided similar directions although they were worded differently.) The trailhead was 31.5 miles from the Falls City Post Office with all but the first .6 on gravel roads. As crazy as the directions appeared the drive turned out to be fairly straight forward. The directions were spot on and we found that at many of the intersections the BLM had pointers for VOG.

We weren’t expecting to see these pointers and aren’t sure how new they might be (or how long they will last given some peoples penchant for causing mischief) but they proved to be very helpful.
The roads had a few potholes but were in relatively good shape and passable for lower clearance vehicles. The scenery alternated between the bleak landscapes of clearcuts and beautifully green forests surrounding the South and later North Forks of the Siletz River.
South Fork Siletz River along Valsetz Road.
Confluence of the North and South Forks of the Siletz River.
North Fork Siletz River.
The route also took us past the historical site of Valsetz, an unincorporated community and timber company town. In 1983 the timber company announced the halting of operations there and in 1984 all structures were removed leaving just some foundations. We drove by the foundations but didn’t stop due to some sort of gathering occurring (which we were pretty sure wasn’t within the current COVID-19 guidelines).
An hour and fifteen minutes after passing the Post Office in Falls City we arrived at the Valley of the Giants Trailhead.

A signboard at the trailhead provided a brief history and a map of the 51 acre area.

We followed the trail downhill to a footbridge over the North Fork Siletz River.

Bleeding heart
Fairybells
Star flowered solomonseal and false lily of the valley getting ready to bloom.



At the far end of the footbridge was a lone picnic table.

The trail climbed a bit to the start of a .7 mile loop which itself climbed approximately 160′ to the “Big Guy”, a huge Douglas Fir that fell in a 1981 storm. At that time the tree is believed to have been 230′ tall and approximatley 600 years old.

Old growth giants.
Another huge Douglas fir.
Standing among the giants.
Unfurling ferns.
“Big Guy”
Standing in between a cut in “Big Guy”. For reference I am a little under 5’9″.
Bench at “Big Guy”
Beyond “Big Guy” the trail descended back down to the start of the loop.

Oregon grape

The only trillium we saw all day that still had any petals.


We returned to the trailhead to find a second car there now and the only other hikers we’d seen that day. We chatted with them for a bit (from over 6 feet away). His grandfather had been working at Valsetz when it was shut down so he had spent time there as a child and all around the area.
Driving back past the clear-cuts after having just visited the pocket of old growth just reinforced how important it is to us to protect any wild areas lucky enough to have yet been spared from development or resource extraction. There are not that many of them left and those that aren’t yet protected deserve to be. Happy Trails!


Star-flowered solomonseal
Anemone
Trillium
Oregon grape
Starflower
Yellowleaf iris
Looking back at FR 1910’s bridge over the River.


Valerian
Spotted coralroot
Inside-out flower
Hookedspur violet
Fairy slipper
Dogwood blossom
Buck brush

Shed cicada skin
Wood rose
Fairy bells
Northern phlox
Trail snail
Honeysuckle
Columbine
Lupine
Youth-on-age
Rock ledge along the river.
View from the rock ledge.
Monkey flower
Camas
Concrete tower
Pale flax
Roadbed near the trailhead.
Vanilla leaf
Wild ginger





Candy flower growing out of a mossy tree trunk.
Western meadowrue
Largeleaf sandwort
Striped coralroot
Red flowering currant
The second creek crossing.





Coastal manroot
Sticky cinquefoil
Popcorn
Western yellow oxalis

Variable collomia
Western fence lizard
Giant blue-eyed Mary
Larkspur
Had to climb over this on the left side by the standing tree.
The only choice here was to use this tree as the trail.
Minor debris on the trail.
Cuts most likely from the original establishment of the trail.
This one required a detour to the right around the end of the tree.
Forest reclaiming the trail tread.












Mallards
Crow
Sparrow
Guessing some sort of warbler
California quail scattering

Rabbit with sparrows behind.
Rabbit with a quail behind.
Golden-crowned sparrows
Most of the rabbits we see run off right away but this little guy was pretty brave.
Meadow checker-mallow
Tough-leaved iris
Columbine
Morgan Lake from the trail.
Heading into the woods.
Spotted towhee








Old tree trunk
Ferns
Woodland stars
Thin-leaf pea (and a spider behind the blossoms)
Fringecup
Given their size we believe this was proper social distancing for rough-skinned newts.
Western meadowlark
Tomcat clover
Giant blue-eyed Mary
A checker-mallow surrounded by pale flax
Camas

Plectritis
Castilleja levisecta – Golden Paintbrush which historically occurred in the grasslands and prairies of the Willamette Valley. The species had been extirpated from the valley with the last sighting in Oregon occurring in Linn County in 1938. It was reintroduced to various areas starting in 2010 including here at Baskett Slough. In the wetter areas it failed to take but the plant has managed to take hold on Baskett Butte.


Larkspur
Biscuitroot
The white patch in the foreground is coastal manroot while the red patch uphill is columbine.
Some of the mass of columbine.
Tolmie’s mariposa lilies

Meadow death camas
Oregon sunshine

Hairy vetch
Purple sanicle

Yarrow starting to bloom.


A pair of American goldfinches
Silvery blue butterfly
Common yellowthroat
Moffiti Marsh
Great blue heron flying over
Ducks on the water and swallows in the air.
Northern shoveler on the left.
A couple different types of ducks.

Western bluebird
Female western bluebird gathering items for a nest.
Wild rose
Canada geese flying over.
Two pairs of American goldfinches.
Cinnamon teal
Bald eagle flying overhead
Red-winged blackbird
Moffiti Marsh


Wetlands near Eola Ridge Park
Red-winged blackbird
Madrone in Eola Ridge Park

Bleeding heart and miners lettuce around a small bench.


Possibly forget-me-nots.
Fringecup
Giant white wakerobbin
Coastal manroot and annual honesty
Blue-bells
Plummed solomon’s seal
I think this is a checker-mallow but I’m never sure between the checker-mallows and checkerblooms.
The city has put up a number of these direction pointers all over Salem which are actually really helpful.
Scrub jay
Starlings
Spotted Towhee
Path leading to the Union Street Bridge
Family of geese
A very light colored mallard


Two squirrels on a tree.
This squirrels was vigoursly attacking this bush.

(We hope this mask was no longer usable because we’d hate to see them wasted, but it did make us chuckle.)
Pringle Creek from Commercial Street with City Hall in the distance.
The Mirror Pond

The heron statue
Mallards




Pringle Creek at Church Street.




Passing the
Sign at Bush Park
Bush House Museum








A white camas
Western buttercups
Buscuitroot

Ground squirrel





Neat old carraige in a yard.
Stellars Jay






Another scrub jay
We risked the caution for mud and high water since this was the shortest way to the bridge.
Tree blossoms
The high water wasn’t an issue, but it was really muddy around that puddle.
Sparrow
I mistook this small bird for a hummingbird but after looking at the photo it might just be a baby?
We tried to take our first sit down break of the day here but the bench was still wet from the morning. On to Riverfront it is.
Looking across a field to West Salem and its green water tower in the hills.
California poppy
Red flowering currant
Sparrow
Western service berry
Crossing the Peter Courtney Bridge.
Willamette River from the Union Street Bridge
More geese
Perriwinkle
Pacific waterleaf
Camas
Another checker-mallow(or checkerbloom)
California poppy
Haven’t figured this one out yet.



Mt. Hood beyond the green water tower.
Mt. Adams through a little haze.







Slender toothwort
Trillium
Violets
Berry Creek
Bird’s nest that Heather spotted along the trail.



The first deer we spotted (up near the top of the hill at center).
Zoomed in shot of the second deer at upper left.
First deer again.
First deer crossing the trail ahead of us.
The second and third deer watching us pass.











The area around the pond was popular with the birds.
There were quite a few robins about.

Larger of the two ponds
Little footbridge by the large pond
Smaller pond
We ignored the signed trails sticking to the road which was also signed as the “Guadalupe Loop”

Acorn woodpecker
Second acorn woodpecker
Spotted towhee




Snow along the Guadalupe Loop






This chipmunk also caught our attention.







Spencer Butte’s summit high point.
View north from the high point towards Mary’s Peak (


















An older tree along the trail.
Mushrooms on a trunk near the clear cut view.
Violet










Heather emerging from behind the outcrop.

















Ocean coming right up to the rocks.





Trail at lower right with a little standing water.



Three Arch Rocks – one of two wilderness areas in Oregon off limits to visitors.
















Looking back north from the dune crest.
Looking north at what was to come.
Thick forest between the bay and the dune.
One of several semi-circles created by grass going back and forth.



Cape Lookout from the trail to the picnic shelter.
Seagull atop the shelter.

Snow queen
Red flowering currant
Toothwort
Fairy slipper
Glacier lilies
Chickweed monkeyflower
Giant white wakerobin
Giant fawn lilies
Camas and plectritis
Fringecup
Bleeding heart
Bluebells?
Dogwood
Large solomonseal
Vine maple
Chocolate lilies
Coltsfoot
Wild rose
Ball-head waterleaf
Arnica
Manzanita
A currant
Showy jacob’s ladder
Oregon anemone
Lupine
Vanilla leaf
Larkspur
Woodland stars
Popcorn flower
Salsify
Deadly nightshade
Rock clematis
Twinberry?
Bluebells
Cinquefoil
Meadowrue
A violet
Shooting star
Old man’s whiskers
Western stoneseed
Blue dicks
Balsamroot
Slender phlox
Cutleaf daisy
Large head clover
Kittentails
Hairy clematis
Yellow bell
Brown’s peony (blossoms hadn’t opened yet)
Small flower miterwort
Vetch
Yarrow
Houndstongue
A catchfly
Branched hareleaf
Watercress
Fiddleneck
Rough eyelashweed
Penstemon
Phlox
Spreading dogbane
Buckwheat
Scab penstemon
Oregon sunshine?
False sunflower?
Sticky purple geranium
Threadleaf phacelia
Skullcap
Stream globe mallow
Blue mustard?
Ragged robin
Blanket flower
Cusick’s paintbrush
Wild onion
Monument plant
Rockcress
Hoary balsamroot
Camas
White-stem frasera
Milk vetch
A clover
Dwarf yellow fleabane
Iris
Iris
Paintbrush
Blue-eyed mary
Cat’s ear lilies
Candy flower
Thimbleberry
Stonecrop
Youth-on-age
False lily of the valley
Coralroot
Fairybells
Scouler’s cordyalis
Coralroot
Ookow
Anemone
Bunchberry
Rhododendron
Wild bugbane
Avalanche lilies
Paintbrush
Western pasque flower
Valerian
Mountain heather
Penstemon
Manzanita
Dwarf lupine
Pussypaws
White dwarf lupine
Sagebrush false dandelion?
Daisies
Foxglove
Self-heal
Tailed kittentails
Goldenbanner?
Vetch?
Larkspur
Phlox
Paintbrush
Lupine
Violets
Lousewort
Marsh marigold
Salal
Thistle
Monkeyflower
Cultivated radish?
A clover
Beach morning glory
Groundcone
Some sort of rose
Striped coralroot
Penstemon
Arrowleaf buckwheat
Star-flower solomonseal
Raceme pussytoes
Beargrass
Coralroot
Blue-head gilia
Penstemon
Groundsel?
Inside-out flower
Starflower
Candysticks
Wild strawberry
Columbine
Showy phlox
Trillium
Bladder campion?
Catchfly
Aster or fleabane
A currant
Wood violet
Pussytoes
Lousewort
Jacob’s ladder?
Wallflower
Wild ginger
Giant blue-eyed mary
Coneflower
Cow parsnip
Tall mountain bluebells
Scarlet gilia
Orange agoseris
Owls clover
Some sort of phacelia?
Honeysuckler
Wild onion
Twin flower
Penstemon
Two types of paintbrush
Stream orchid?
Tiger lily
Penstemon
Field chickweed
Lupine

Spotted coralroot
Lupine
Avens?
Farewell to spring
Penstemon
Washington lily
Wintergreen
Pinesap
Pinedrop
Paintbrush
Mock orange
Prince’s pine
Bachelor button
Pyrola
Queen’s cup
Aster (or a fleabane)?
Bog orchid
Elephant’s head
Rainiera
Ghost pipe
Scouler’s bluebells
Monkshood
Pink monkeyflower
Creeping wire lettuce
Fireweed
Penstemon
Aster (or a fleabane)
Spirea
Hedgenettle
Scouler’s St. Johns wort
Gentian
Pennyroal
Chicory
A pea?
Thistle
This pearly is in better shape from an August hike.