A cold snap arrived in conjunction with the final hike of our official 2023 season leaving us with a decision to make about where to go. One of the great things about living in Western Oregon are the hiking options. We were debating between heading to Government Camp near Mt. Hood to see some of the new snow that the system had brought with it, or to the beach where things would be a little bit warmer. In the end we decided that we weren’t quite ready for a Winter wonderland yet, and highs in the low to mid 50s sounded a little more appealing than highs in the low to mid 30s. The beach it was where we had some unfinished business at Oceanside.
We had attempted to hike the beach at Oceanside earlier in the year on a different multi-stop day (post), but had saved it for the final stop only to find the area so crowded that there was no place to park. We wouldn’t be making that mistake again so this time it was stop number one on the itinerary. We had no issue finding a parking spot this time arriving just as the Moon was disappearing behind Three Arch Rocks.
From left to right: Storm, Finely, and Shag Rocks.
Three Arch Rocks is one of two designated wilderness areas along the Oregon Coast Managed by the Department of Fish and Wildlife as a wildlife refuge the 15-acre wilderness area was the first designated refuge West of the Mississippi and is one of only a few wilderness areas entirely closed to entry by the general public.
From the parking lot we took the stairs down to the beach and headed north toward the Tunnel which leads through Maxwell Point to Tunnel Beach.
Cape Lookout (post) to the south.
Maxwell Point
View from beside Maxwell Point.
The Tunnel was built in 1926.


The Tunnel from Tunnel Beach.
Three Arch Rocks from Tunnel Beach.
We hiked North along the beach passing a rocky point to Agate Beach before turning around where that beach ended at a cliff a little more than a third of a mile from the Tunnel.
The end of Tunnel Beach. At higher tide it’s not possible to get around the point here.
Getting closer to the end of Tunnel Beach. This set of ocean rocks are part of the Oregon Islands Wilderness, A string of of over 5,600 rocks, reefs, islets, and islands lying within three miles offshore mirroring almost the entire length of the Oregon coast from Tillamook Head to the California border. Like Three Arch Rocks this wilderness is also closed to the public.
Bald eagle on top of one of the rocks.
Seal
Agate Beach

Cape Lookout from Agate Beach.
After reaching the cliff we headed back to the Tunnel and then continued South along the beach 2.3-miles to Hodgdon Creek across from Netarts Spit (post).
An assortment of sea birds.

Maxwell Point and Cape Lookout

Sun starting to hit the Three Arch Rocks.

Sand dollar

Cormorants. There was a steady stream of flocks of birds heading south along the coastline.
Footbridge over Fall Creek.
Fall Creek
Frosty leaves near Fall Creek.
Great blue heron in a tree above Fall Creek.
Happy Camp
Hodgdon Creek
Seagulls and common mergansers near Hodgdon Creek.
Buffleheads
Netarts Spit
Happy Camp from our turn around point.
We returned the way we’d come and then drove North on Cape Meares Loop Road just under a mile and a half to a pullout across from a sign for Short Beach.
Three Arch Rocks and Maxwell Point now in full Sun.

A local built the staircase leading down to Short Beach and it is about as “Oregon Coast” as a staircase could be.


The beach only extends a short distance to the South.
The sea stack and Short Creek Spillway to the North.
We headed North along the cobblestone beach which isn’t the easiest surface to hike on, especially when they are wet and slightly frosty. On the positive side the cobblestones added some great sounds to the ocean as the waves tossed them about then rolled them over one another as the waves receded.

Starfish
The sea stack
Cape Meares (post)
I didn’t notice the little waterfall along the cliffs below Cape Mears until I looked at the pictures.
Red-throated loon
A third of a mile from the stairs we reached Larsen Creek Falls.


Apparently at low tide it’s possible to reach the cliffs below Cape Meares, but the tide was coming in and it also appeared that some sliding had occurred at some point, so we turned around a tenth of a mile beyond Larsen Creek Falls.
The area ahead in the shade is where things started looking a little sketchy.



These two beach hikes came to a total of 6.6-miles, 5.5 at Oceanside and 1.1 at Short Beach. From Short Beach we drove to Tillamook to try the Tillamook Bay Wetlands hike which I’d found as I was looking through the Oregon Hikers Field Guide. We parked at the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. The field guide entry showed this as a 3.6-mile loop following dikes through wetlands between the Wilson, Trask, and Tillamook Rivers. We were immediately confused due to the field guide mentioning a map and metal gate at the Goodspeed Trailhead but there was neither at the signed parking area.
Apparently there used to be a metal gate here instead of a the rope/chain.
We were pretty sure we’d followed the driving directions though so we stepped over the chain onto the grassy dike and began following it through the wetlands.


Bald eagles in the tree tops.
Bald eagles
The map in the field guide showed an elongated loop following what Google Maps and the GPS showed as the continuation of Goodspeed Road to the Wilson River then along that river to the Tillamook River where the route looped back along it then the Trask to Sissek Road. The dike we were on though reached a slough where it turned sharply South.
This is where the dike/path turned South. Our best guess is that there has been additional wetland restoration since the entry in the field guide and some of the dikes that the guide route followed have been removed.
We didn’t come up with our theory about what was going on until after we got home. While we were hiking we kept checking the GPS map/track and comparing it to the map in the field guide. We still weren’t sure if we really had started in the right spot given the lack of a metal gate and map at the trailhead or if we’d missed a turn somewhere. We continued to follow the dike system which looped around and after just over a half mile the GPS showed that we were on Sissek Road (now a grassy dike).
We weren’t getting across that.
Somewhere out that way, beyond the slough, was the Wilson River.
Now heading East toward Sissek Road.
At this point we had left Sissek Road which used to extend straight from Goodspeed Road where the signs and rope/chain is in this photo (ahead to the right at the 90-degree turn).
The dike system brought us to another signed parking area we’d pass on the way to the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. This one is just past a one-lane bridge over Hall Slough.

At this point we were sure we’d started at the correct trailhead and were now convinced we’d missed a turn somewhere near the start of the hike. First we tried walking a grassy track South from this parking area which brought us to another muddy slough, but not before spotting an egret and a great blue heron.



We backtracked to the parking area and then hiked Goodspeed Road back to the trailhead where I began searching for a different route.
Hawk above Goodspeed Road.
One path led down to Hall Slough ending in mud at it’s bank.
A second path led north on what the GPS showed as a former road but it was too overgrown and flooded to make it far.
We wound up doing just 1.9-miles here including the out-and-back explorations.

It was a fine little hike and we saw a nice little variety of birds, but it was a little disappointing not to be able to see any of the rivers. We had one last stop planned, another short hike I found in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide, the Anderson Hill Loop . The trail begins at Anderson Hill County Park to the right of a metal picnic table.


The 1.2-mile reverse lollipop loop gains just 130′ as it climbs to a power line corridor on Anderson Hill. The view from the power lines is of course limited due to the power lines, but the trail was in good shape and the forest was nice making for a decent little outing.

Junction with the spur trail to the power line corridor.







Footbridge and stairs leading back up to the picnic table.
The four hikes came to just 9.7-miles and 270′ of cumulative elevation gain and included ocean views, waterfalls, forests, wetlands, and ample wildlife.

It was a beautiful day weather wise and great way to end our season. We’ll scale back our hiking for the next 5-6 months, but we plan on getting out at least once a month until our 2024 season kicks off. Happy Trails!
Flickr: Tillamook Area Hikes




Along the way we entered the wilderness area.









It looks to have been a good year for beargrass.



The trail was well maintained with only one small log across the entire route to Vivian Lake.

Another level section.
Pond along the trail.
The saddle at the high point of the trail.
Maiden Peak (


We passed the smaller of the two lakes a half mile below the saddle.
The second lake, which was just 100 yards from the first, was much larger.
Mt. Yoran from the lake.
Ridge above the lakes.
Just before beginning the descent the trail passed South of a third small pond/lake that was visible through the trees.
Heading down to the creek.

The marsh
Mt Yoran from the marsh. While it looks like a meadow, Fall Creek flows through here, and at times we could see water out in the grass.




We were able to use these rocks to hop across this narrow channel to the North shore of the lake where we were able to get a view of Mt. Yoran.












Varied thrush. These continue to be the most frustrating frequently seen bird to try and photograph.


I believe these were ring-necked ducks.
Diamond Peak from the trail on the way back.

Not all of the blowdown was as easy as this log to get over/under.
Multiple switchbacks kept the lower portion of the climb from feeling too steep.
The Hemlock Butte Trail succumbing to the vegetation.
An obvious spur trail at the base of the rock outcrop leads to a view of Mt. Yoran and Diamond Peak. For those not comfortable with the scramble this is a good goal.
The trail to the summit at the junction with the spur.
Scrambling up
Mt. Yoran and Diamond Peak from the summit.
Wolf Mountain to the NW with clouds covering the Willamette Valley in the distance.
The view South.
Looking down from the summit. (The trail is to the right.)
The “trailhead” was just under 14 miles from Highway 58 or just over 5.5 miles from the Vivian Lake Trailhead.
The trail sign on the right. The Pool Creek Trail #4228 shows up on the Forest Service map, but they don’t have a dedicated webpage for it. We were made aware of the trail by following 
What looks like it might be tread ahead is actually the log.
The Pool Creek Trail to the left of the creek. Here you can see the first switchback turning steeply uphill.
The makeshift creek crossing.
At the third switchback.
The reason we hadn’t noticed the trail on the far side was because it climbed quite a bit in an initial series of short switchbacks so from where we had been the trail was already much higher than we’d expected it would be. In the photo Heather is coming up to the third switchback below.
These two trees are mentioned in the May 2022 trail update on the Cascade Volunteers webpage.
This one was high enough to easily pass under. On the far side are more cut logs.
First view of the falls from the trail.
Pool Creek Falls







O’Brien Creek near the trailhead.
It seemed like all of the climbs this weekend had been steep.
After two warm sunny days this hike finally felt like Fall.
As I approached this footbridge I noticed a yellow jacket fly into the big hole along the right side of the trail. A quick peak in revealed a busy nest so we wound up bushwacking uphill and around it hopping onto the bridge at the edge of the marsh ahead.
A nice newer looking sign at the upper trailhead.




There were a few really big trees in the forest along the trail.
Grayback Mountain from the trail.
The trail crossing O’Brien Creek.
The junction with the spur trail to the snow shelter. It took me far too long to realize that the sign was upside down. I couldn’t figure out why it thought the Boundary Trail was to the left, after looking at it a few more times it dawned on me that the words were upside down.
Ah ha! It wouldn’t stay this way but it sure made more sense.





There used to be a cabin out in the meadows and now there is a snow gauge and a campsite which may be where the voices were coming from.
We took a quick peak inside the shelter where some of the backpacker’s stuff was.
It was steep going down too.
Trail pointer near the upper trailhead marking the continuation of the O’Brien Creek Trail to the lower trailhead.
We always enjoy seeing madrones on our hikes in Southern Oregon.

Slug on a shroom.
Bug on a shroom.
One more steep drop to the lower trailhead.


The forest is recovering from the 2002 Biscuit Fire.
To the left was the Babyfoot Lake Rim Trail. Sullivan’s longer option here include following this trail 0.9-miles to a viewpoint above the lake. Given the fog that seemed pointless, and it also looked like that trail was in need of some maintenance.
A small stream with crystal clear water along the trail.
My nemesis, the varied thrush.
Near the lake the trail passes this rock outcrop which is a viewpoint without the fog.
Some of the trees around the lake survived the 2002 fire.


I of course had to head out onto the viewpoint given the rapidly changing conditions.


The patterns on this snag caught my eye.
The trailhead on the ridge ahead.

There is a large turnaround/parking area at the end of Forest Road 041 which serves as the trailhead. The final 500 meters of the road are rough so high clearance vehicles are recommended.
A pink flag marked the start of the trail just up the road from the turnaround.
The trailhead from the Tanner Lakes Trail.
A few trees survived the fire around the lakes.
Tanner Lake in the morning.

Penstemon
Wallflower
Recent trail maintenance.
East Tanner Lake
Fireweed
The eastern side of the ridge fared better in the fire than the forest closer to the lakes.
Signs at the junction with the tie trail.
The tie trail used to be here.



Second breakfast
The trail briefly left the fire scar altogether near the Fehley Gulch junction.
Looking back down at the Fehley Gulch Trail as it joins the Tanner Lake Trail.
Tanner Mountain from the trail near the junction.
Sign at the Boundary Trail junction.
Dark-eyed junco
Tanner Mountain again.
Scarlet gilia
One of two checker-mallow blossoms I spotted. The other was much nicer looking but it was downhill and I was too lazy to go down to get a good photo.
This trail was really steep at times.
Almost to the ridge.
The trail became pretty faint on the ridge.
More steep climbing.
Looking back down over the use trail.
From right to left – Grayback Mountain, Lake Mountain, and Mount Elijah (with lots of other peaks).
The double humps of Red Buttes behind and left of Pyramid Peak with the outline of Mt. Shasta to the right of Pyramid Peak.
Preston Peak and El Capitan in the Siskiyou Wilderness (
Preston Peak and El Capitan
Bolan Mountain, our other stop for the day.
Bolan Mountain
East Tanner Lake in the shadow of Tanner Mountain.
A faint Mt. McLoughlin (
The Boundary Trail dropping off Thompson Ridge.
Ferns along the Boundary Trail.
More signs of recent maintenance.
Old campsite near Road 570 and the boundary of the
This is/was the Boundary Trailhead but there isn’t much left post fire.
Bolan Mountain from Road 570.
Pussy paws
Road 041 at Kings Saddle.
Pearly everlasting along Road 041.
Where things started getting ugly on Road 041.
It’s in the shadow but the runoff channel cut across the road here creating a decent sized divot.
Another rocky section of the road.
California sister at the trailhead.

The pointer is a trap!
This looked like as clear a spot as any.
Looking up the Bolan Lake Trail.
My guess is the rock on the log was where the trail used to begin but the log had been a bit too large to climb over.
Faint tread was all that was left in most places.
The Bolan Lake Trail to the left.
Sometimes the tread just disappeared.
Lake Mountain, Grayback Mountain, Craggy Mountain, and Swan Mountain.
Momentary tread.
Just about 500′ below the ridge there was a large downed tree which required some side-hilling to drop below and then climb steeply back up to the trail.
I got back to the trail to find more debris covering it.
Final pitch to the ridge.
Bolan Mountain from the ridge.
The trail descended slightly on the far side of the ridge to the junction.
I assume the downed post and small pile of rocks marked the junction with the mile long Kings Saddle Trail.
The Bolan Lake Trail (I think) at the junction.
I might be on trail.
I was sure I was on the trail here.
Mountain bluebird wondering what I was thinking.
Now I was just going uphill.
No idea where I was supposed to be at this point.
The rocky point that the GPS labeled as Bolan Mountain.
I got this far before realizing I was heading to the wrong spot.
At least from here I could see the road heading up to the former lookout site through the burned trees.
Not sure if the outhouse (above to the left) survived the fire or is new.
Stone steps to the former lookout site.
Preston Peak and El Capitan from the lookout site.
Bolan Lake from Bolan Mountain.
Tanner Mountain in the foreground.
Grayback Mountain from Bolan Mountain.
Red Buttes to the far left and Mt. Shasta through the haze.
Bolan Lake from the service road.
Looking back toward Bolan Mountain.
Hoary comma
Gate along the service road.
Road 40 from the service road.
Road 40.
Mushrooms along Road 40.
The connector trail along Bolan Creek.
The trail around Bolan Lake.


Thick vegetation along the lake shore.
Trail sign at the end of the second campground loop for the trail around the lake.
Pretty deep channel at the end of the loop.


Bolan Mountain from Bolan Lake
Road 600 heading uphill.
Crab spider on a fleabane.
The Sturgis Trailhead on the left.
Trail map of the area.
Nettle-leaf giant hyssop
The viewpoint we were headed to.
All that was left for signage at the Boundary Trail junction.
The Boundary Trail to the South toward Sucker Creek Gap (
Coming from this direction all we noticed were a couple of signs on a tree and some pink flagging.
Trail signs for the Boundary Trail and Lake Mountain Trail #1206 to the Oregon Caves (
The trail can be seen in the lower right-hand corner.
Again the trail is in the lower right corner.
There was still a small amount of paintbrush in the meadow.
A clump of fireweed ahead that had gone to seed.
A small section of trees was located along this gully.
A little brushy here.
Ferns at the northern end of the meadows.
The double humps of the Red Buttes in the distance to the SE.
Preston Peak in the Siskiyou Wilderness (
Arriving at the pass.
This was the only signage that was visible at the junction.
We could see tread heading East into the trees which was the Sparlin Tie Trail. The Elk Creek Trail wasn’t as obvious, but it dropped down to the right just a little way up the tread seen here.
Lake Mountain from the Boundary Trail.

There was a small geocache located at the viewpoint. Smoke from the still smoldering wildfires impacted the views a bit, Mt. Shasta is out there toward the right-hand side.
The outline of Mt. Shasta to the left of Red Buttes.
Preston Peak and other peaks in the
Closer look at the Siskiyou Wilderness peaks.
Grayback Mountain to the North. Mt. McLoughlin (
Mt. McLoughlin
The remains of a trail sign near the saddle.
The Sparlin Tie Trail straight ahead and the Elk Creek Trail heading off to the right.
Homemade? trail sign a short distance up the tie trail. (note Bigelow Lakes is spelled “Biglow”)

The tread was faint through the meadows but not any more difficult to follow than the Boundary Trail had been.
Cinquefoil
Coneflower and fireweed
Random sign along the trail.
Crossing through the final meadow.
Orange Sulphur butterfly
Arriving at the 1214 Trail.
There was actually more blowdown along this trail than there had been along the tie trail, but it was easily navigated.

Bigelow Lakes from the trail.



The use trail to the lake.

While I was at the lake Heather was making friends with this tree frog.
The old roadbed.
Trail sign at the roadbed.

This bunch of blowdown was just before the junction.
There were several of these stands along the Lake Mountain Trail, all of which were blank.
The lower portion of the trail passed through a nice forest.
The trail passed below the 6294′ Mount Elijah (for some reason both peaks along the ridge are named Mount Elijah on some maps) before gaining the ridge crest and climbing to the higher Mount Elijah summit at 6381′.

The taller Mount Elijah.
Lake Mountain from Mount Elijah.
Preston Peak and a cloud from Mount Elijah. Wildfire smoke was a little more of an issue now.
Red Buttes in the distance.
The other Mount Elijah from Mount Elijah.
Phlox
We shared the summit with this little frog.
The junction with the 1214 Trail. Another with missing signage.
This tree required a detour downhill to get around.
Looking down at the Lake Mountain Trail as it switchbacked downhill.
The trail was a bit brushy in spots.
Bigelow’s sneezeweed
Pink flagging in the little meadow where the trail met the Boundary Trail.
The Lake Mountain Trail junction with the Boundary Trail.
We packed out yet another mylar balloon (GRRRR).
Junction with the Sturgis Fork Trail on the left.


Hoary comma
We were parked just to the right along the road below the hill.


Big Creek in the morning.
A short section of the trail was paved.
At the eastern end of the parking area we came to this new kiosk that is being installed marking the start of the Agate Beach TRACK Trail. There was also a path directly to the parking lot from the kiosk which we used upon our return.
The tunnel under Highway 101. The stairs at the far end lead up to a city street while the trail makes a hard right to briefly follow the highway back across Big Creek.
A series of boardwalks crosses the marshy bottomlands of Big Creek.
While the kiosk was a new work in process there were a number of older looking interpretive signposts. This was one of only a handful that still contained an interpretive sign.
The bottomlands.

There were no signs at junctions but for the TRACK Trail stick to the level fork and ignore anything going uphill.
Further along the trail Big Creek could actually be seen flowing.
A non-boardwalk section along Big Creek.
Approximately three quarters of a mile from the kiosk the trail arrived at Big Creek Road at another new signboard.
The signboard at Big Creek Road didn’t have any information on it yet.
Stellar’s Jay
Northern flickers on the picnic shelter.
Map on the signboard.
Anderson Creek, the footbridge, and signboard from the roadbed.
The Forest Park Trail
A nice sitka spruce forest lined the old roadbed.
Mushrooms
Sunlight hitting the trees.
The Pacific Ocean through the trees near the water towers.
Passing the water towers.
The drop to Jeffries Creek.
Jeffries Creek
Wood ducks in the wetlands.
The gate near Fogarty Street.
The Forest Park Trail from the other side of the gate.

Morning fog was still burning off at 9:30am.
A car by the gravel pile to the left with the road coming down the hillside to the right. Interestingly Google Maps labels this as “Burnt Woods Ridge Road” which both Alltrails & Garmin showed as the left-hand fork where our loop would begin. (Google doesn’t show a road there at all but you can see the road in the trees by looking at the aerial view.) Numerous times throughout the hike we relied on comparing the Alltrails Track to the GPS map and our track to that point to determine where we were and which road(s) to take.
There was some room to park here at the start of the loop (this is not where Google marks the TH) as well as many pullouts along the loop where one could choose to start.

Heading down into the fog.
One positive to the fog is that it can create some dramatic Sun rays.
Vine maple
Blue sky in the upper left hand corner.
The road to the right is an example of a road that wasn’t labeled on any map we had.
Emerging from the fog.
Looking back through the fog to blue sky and the Sun.
The only other “hiker” we saw on the loop.
We couldn’t see it but just over three miles from the start of the loop the road crossed Cline Creek which was the first time we heard what sounded like a decent amount of flowing water.
A little over a tenth of a mile beyond Cline Creek we left Burnt Woods Forest Road and forked uphill to the left onto Cline Creek Road.
Arriving at a clearcut. Much of Cline Creek Road was along different clearcuts.
Mylitta crescent
Red-tailed hawk soaring over the clearcut.
Trying to get the red-tailed hawk in flight.
Lots of Fall colors starting to pop.
The first signs we’d seen (noticed anyway) were at the Cline Creek/Burnt Woods Ridge Road junction.

Arriving at the high point which was actually the first good viewpoint being above one of the clearcuts.
Looking North at more of the Coast Range.
Theoretically we should have been able to see both Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson from here but between haze from the fog and clouds we couldn’t make either out.
Mt. Jefferson is out there somewhere. The fact that the Cascades have some snow again doesn’t help them stand out in the haze and clouds.
Yet another unsigned road junction. Sticking to the ridge is the key.
After crossing a saddle we gained views SE to Mary’s Peak (
The tower and summit meadow of Mary’s Peak.
The hard left prior to the steep descent. The road on the far hillside in the clearcut is part of the road Google Maps has labeled as Burnt Ridge Road but doesn’t show on Alltrails or the Garmin maps.
The end of the loop at the bottom of the hill.