wanderingyuncks

Mount Howard – 07/26/2024

For the final hike of our week in Enterprise we had purchased tickets for the Wallowa Lake Tramway. The tram was built in 1970 as the steepest 4-person gondola in North America. It takes 15 minutes to travel the 1.83-miles from the 4450′ lower terminal to the 8150′ upper terminal.

The operating hours vary but the tram was running from 9am to 4:30pm so we had some extra time in the morning which we used to check out the Sugar Time Bakery in Enterprise before driving to the tram. We were a little early and did some wandering around Wallow Lake before the tram opened and then were the first riders of the morning.

View after coming back down.

The ride provided some nice views. Fortunately for us it was the clearest morning that we’d experienced all week. When we arrived at the upper terminal we exited our gondola and prepared to set off on our hike.

The tramway from the top.

We were continuing to check off featured hikes toward our goal of completing at least part of each of the 100 hikes featured in William L. Sullivans “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” (post). He describes two options for hikes on Mount Howard – a 1.9-mile loop and a 5.5-mile hike that adds an out-and-back to a spring below nearby East Peak. Heather had opted for the 1.9-mile loop and I was going to try the longer hike so we split up and I headed for the Royal Purple Overlook.

Pointer for the Royal Purple Overlook (right) and Summit Overlook (left).

Penstemon

Heading out to the Royal Purple Overlook.

They do hold weddings up on the mountain.

Lewis flax

Mountain coyote mint

The Hurwal Divide, Point Joseph and Ruby Peak from left to right.

Pete’s Point, West Aneroid Peak, Eagle Cap the furthest away (post), and Craig Mountain.

Closer look at Eagle Cap.

Craig Mountain and the Matterhorn (post).

East Peak

Heather arrived at the overlook just as I was ready to move on to the Summit Overlook. We took a minute to appreciate the view together and then I headed back to the loop.
Pano that Heather took with her phone.

Buckwheat

Pointer for the Summit Overlook.

View from the Summit Overlook. Heather is standing on the Royal Purple Overlook.

Buek’s groundsel

Point Joseph

East Peak as I neared the Summit Overlook.

The Seven Devils poking up above the smoke from Idaho.

Seven Devils

Mount Melissa to the left and East Peak straight ahead.

Sullivan’s 5.5-mile option included taking a short-cut near the Summit Overlook to link up with the trail leading to the spring. While the short-cut path was obvious it was also clear that the Forest Service doesn’t want people using it based on the sign asking people to stay on official trails and the wood placed over the start of the path.

As a compliance officer it’s my job to follow the rules and guidelines and that’s what I did here. It would add roughly half a mile to my hike, but I remained on the loop for another 0.2-miles dropping to a 4-way junction where I turned right.
The 4-way junction.

East Peak from the 4-way junction.

This trail was clearly less utilized than the Summit Loop and it dropped down a ridge before turning toward East Peak and traversing to a saddle below the Summit Overlook.

Mountain bluebird

Climbing to the saddle.

The view from the saddle.

Wood blocking the lower end of the “short-cut”.

From the saddle the trail climbed steeply through some trees gaining 200′ in 0.2-miles.

Looking back at the Summit Overlook during one of my several breaks during the climb up.

The trail continued to climb, but a bit less steeply, for another 0.4-miles to a second saddle.
There were a few obstacles to avoid along the climb as well.

Meanwhile Heather was admiring a spring along the Summit Loop.

The Royal Purple Overlook from the trail.

Up, up I go.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel watching me navigate some blowdown.

The views helped keep my mind off the climbing.

The second saddle in sight.

The angle was enough different from the saddle that I could see a couple of additional peaks.

The Matterhorn on the left and now Sacajawea Peak behind the Hurwal Divide to the Matterhorns right.

The saddle provided a brief level stretch before the trail launched steeply uphill again.

I was now in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. The trail gained nearly another 300′ over the next 0.4-miles where I arrived at a faint fork.

East Peak

Lots of buckwheat along this section.

Buckwheat and lupine above the trail.

The fork. According to Sullivan the righthand fork peters out in about 0.2-miles and then it’s possible to scramble up East Peak in another three quarters of a mile. I went left heading for the spring.

The trail lost just a little elevation then made a nearly level traverse below a tiny snow field to arrive at a series of springs.

The McCully Creek Trail which we hiked a couple of days earlier (post) is on the far side of the near ridge.

A phacelia

Lyall’s Goldenweed

Wallflower

Looking back at the trail.

Flowers near the springs.

Shrubby cinquefoil surrounded by bistort and mountain death-camas.

Mountain death-camas and bistort

Looking up at the springs.

Monkeyflower

I ventured past the first large spring and hiked to an open rocky ridge where I gained a view of Aneroid Mountain.
There were several smaller streams below East Peak.

Aneroid Mountain

Ground squirrel

View from my turn around point.

Looking back at my route to the second saddle.

I headed back to the Summit Loop where I continued around the outer loop to the Valley Overlook.
Dusty maidens near the springs.

Heading down to the saddle.

Cairn at the saddle.

Milbert’s tortoiseshell

Pale agoseris

Climbing back up to the 4-way junction.

Back on the Summit Loop.

Crossing the service road coming up from McCully Creek.

Mountain Heather

Pointer for the Valley Overlook.

Spur trail to the Valley Overlook.

Flag at the Valley Overlook.

Wallowa Lake below the Valley Overlook.

Wallowa Lake

East Peak peaking up over the trees.

I returned to the loop and continued another half mile back to the upper terminal of the tramway.

Wallowa Paintbrush

The upper terminal.

It was hard not to stop and order some food from the Summit Grill since it smelled so good when I met back up with Heather, but we had a 6:30 hour drive home ahead of us so we simply hopped back on the tram for the 15-minute ride back down to the car.
Apparently Heather was busy making a friend while I was visiting the springs even though she did not feed any animals.

My hike wound up being 6-miles with a little over 1200′ of elevation gain.
The straight line is the tram ride.

The hiking portion highlighted.

This was a nice way to end our trip, but it would have been even nicer if we’d have felt like we had more time to just hang out up on the summit. Knowing that this had been the best day for the views helped us not wish we’d have scheduled this hike earlier in the week though.

We headed home through the smoke from the various fires and felt fortunate that we were able to get our six days of hiking in and check off half (6 of 12) of our remaining featured hikes putting us at 494/500. We’re still hoping to finish this year but given the fire situation that may be a longshot. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mount Howard

Tags Aneroid Mountain, eagle cap, eagle cap wilderness, East Peak, Gondola, hiking, Mount Howard, Oregon, Royal Purple Overlook, Sacajawea Peak, Summit Loop, Summit Overlook, Valley Overlook, Wallow Lake Tramway, Wallowa Mountains, Wallowa-Whitman National Forest

Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Minam Lake – 07/25/2024

After an excellent hike to Bonny Lakes (post) followed by a night of intense thunderstorms I woke up extra early Thursday morning to check various fire and lightning strike maps and the Forest Service website online. While there had definitely been some lightning strikes, the various satellites weren’t showing any hot spots in the area of the Minam Lake Trail so we set off as planned to the Two Pan Trailhead

Even at 6am on a Thursday the trailhead parking was nearly full.

Most of the people parked at the trailhead were likely headed for the Lakes Basin below Eagle Cap (post). It’s 7.4-miles to Mirror Lake in that popular basin by following the East Fork Lostine River Trail. We however were headed for Minam Lake which is the headwaters for the West Fork Lostine River. The trails share tread for the first tenth of a mile before splitting.

This was a neat feature.

We both counted our steps, for me it was 50 and Heather 60.

The Lostine River.

Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness just before the trails split.

Trail sign at the fork.

We headed right on the Minam Lake Trail which climbed steadily for 2.7-miles to a junction with the Copper Creek Trail.

Bridge over the East Fork Lostine River.

East Fork Lostine River

The storm overnight had provided a little much needed rain.

Huckleberries (I’d already picked the ripe ones.)

Elkhorn Peak

Monkshood

Some of the river channels were very calm and crystal clear.

We passed through a section of bent and snapped trees which were probably a result of an avalanche.

The trail climbed more steeply at times over the next 1.5-miles before arriving at a crossing of the West Fork Lostine River. Views also began to open up along this section.
Glacier Mountain

Talus field along the trail. We encountered a gentleman hiking out who we spoke with about the storm. He said it was wild from about 4pm to 9pm with multiple strikes very close. He said he’d had enough between the excessive heat, bugs, and then the storm and was thinking that his days of summer visits might be over and Autumn trips might be his new go to.

Looking back at the other side of Elkhorn Peak.

Nuttal’s linanthus

Looking back down one of the steeper sections. We passed another couple heading out along this section.

Looking up the Copper Creek drainage. Glacier Mountain on the left and Elkhorn Peak on the right.

Off-trail waterfall. We could hear this from the trail, and it was a fairly easy bushwack to get a good view.

The river crossing.

It was another 1.5-miles from the crossing to Minam Lake but only a 300′ elevation change. This section of trail passed along a beautiful, large meadow and recrossed the river after just over a mile.

Yellow columbine

A little hazy looking toward the Sun.

Elephants head

Unnamed creek

An easier crossing of the river here.

First view of Minam Lake.

Minam Lake

Common mergansers

We took a nice break at one of the outlets of the lake then explored a little further along the lake shore before heading back.
Needle Point is the peak in the distance to the far left.

Shooting stars

We could have stared at the rocks along the ridges for hours.

Heading back.

It was a pleasant hike back as the temperatures were finally reasonable. We did hear a helicopter shortly after leaving the lake which then came into view. It didn’t have a bucket so it wasn’t getting water, but we surmised it was performing a smoke check. We had been on the lookout for any signs of smoldering trees that might have been struck by the lightning but didn’t notice any. We found out a couple of days later that there was indeed a fire burning in the Copper Creek drainage due to a lightning strike Wednesday night. We however remained blissfully ignorant.

Violet

Groundsquirrel

Robin

Fritillary

Orange agoseris

The fire was burning up in that basin somewhere.

The talus section in the afternoon.

Spirea

Butterflies and moths were out in force.

Police car moth and another interesting looking pollinator (out of focus).

Prince’s pine

Back at the junction with the East Fork Lostine River Trail.

Left for hikers and right for stock.

Our hike to Minam Lake came to 12.5-miles and approximately 1800′ of elevation gain.

We left the busy Two Pan Trailhead and drove back to Enterprise for one more night. We had purchased tickets for the Wallowa Lake Tramway for Friday which we needed to ride up Mount Howard in order to do the final hike of the trip. The good news was that Friday was going to be the coolest day of the week with improved visibility.

As of 7/28/24 the Elk Horn Fire is just 1.8 acres so hopefully it will remain a small one. There were several other fires sparked by the lighting as well with the Big Canyon Fire being the most likely to grow significantly. It’s already been an ugly year for fires, and we just pray that we get some relief soon. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Minam Lake

Tags Copper Creek Trail, East fork Lostine River, Elkhorn Peak, hiking, Lostine River, Minam Lake, Minam Lake Trail, Oregon, Two Pan Trailhead, Wallowa Mountains, Wallowa-Whitman National Forest, West Fork Lostine River

Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Bonny Lakes – 07/24/2024

With dozens of fires already burning across Oregon another round of thunderstorms were forecasted for Wednesday afternoon/evening. We’d decided on the hike to Bonny Lakes which Sullivan had a 7.8-mile option, an 11.8-mile option, and a 16.3-mile loop. Once again we opted for the shortest option to avoid the heat and storms and to try and to keep the strain on my left leg as low as possible while still finishing one of the featured hike’s options.

After driving the very rocky Forest Road 100 we parked at the Tenderfoot Trailhead and set off on the Tenderfoot Wagon Road which quickly entered the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
We managed to get started about ten minutes before 6am.

The trail brought us to a ford of Big Sheep Creek. We could have forded across, but then we noticed an old log bridge downstream. We backtracked up the trail and found a spur trail leading to the birdge.

Bugbane and paintbrush

A 2022 wildfire burned the first 3-miles of the trail and left the old footbridge damaged. A steep scramble trail led down to it.

Big Sheep Creek

After crossing on the damaged bridge we rejoined the Wagon Road and began climbing through fields of wildflowers.

Paintbrush and lupine

Wildfire smoke filling the valley behind us.

The trail leveled out and continued to climb gradually arriving at a junction just before the North Fork Big Sheep Creek at the 1.1-mile mark.

Phacelia

Butterfly on buckwheat.

Some of the trees survived the fire.

White mariposa lilies in a meadow along the trail.

Junction with the Wing Ridge Trail.

North Fork Big Sheep Creek

Lewis Monkeyflower along the creek.

The trail crossed the creek and continued the gradual climb past more wildflowers and several more streams for 1.2-miles to another junction. Portions of this section of trail burned fairly intensely damaging the soil and leaving little vegetation, but other areas were covered in colorful flowers.

Canada milk-vetch

Grass-of-parnassus

Bog orchid

Checker-mallow

Bee heading for some monkshood.

<Me in some fireweed.

Getting eyed by a western tanager.

When fires burn too hot they damage the soil which makes it difficult for all plants to obtain the necessary nutrients to grow.

A few plants had been able to take hold.

A healthy patch of paintbrush.

Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek

Monkeyflower

Brook saxifrage

Another severely burned section.

The Bonny Lakes Trail forking to the right off of the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail.

We turned onto the Bonny Lakes Trail which continued through the fire scar for approximately another half mile before reaching unburned forest.

Wildflowers along the Bonny Lakes Trail.

The wildflowers were profuse along this stretch of trail.

American sawwort

Police car moths

Larkspur and fleabane

The trail recrossed the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek.

Orange agoseris

After recrossing the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek the trail followed along it as it climbed toward the Bonny Lakes.

Taper tip onions

White mariposa lilies

The trail came to a rock outcrop a half mile before reaching the lakes where it suddenly steepened. As I approached the rocks I heard an animal sound an alarm. A moment later I spotted a pika.

False hellebore

Checker-mallow

Penstemon on the outcrop.

Mountain larkspur

Pika!

Gathering plants for the Winter store.

On the steep climb.

Mountain heather

After the steep section the trail relented a bit and soon rejoined the creek on the final climb to Lower Bonny Lake.
Ground squirrel

The creek was below between the ridges here.

Stonecrop

As we were passing above a marshy area along the creek filled with swamp onions Heather spotted a monarch butterfly.
Swamp onions

Wallowa paintbrush

Aneroid Mountain and Lower Bonny Lake.

Aneroid Mountain to the right and an unnamed peak on the left.

The lake was beautiful. We followed the trail around the east side of the lake crossing a connecting creek between the two lakes.

Shrubby cinquefoil

Cutleaf anemone seed heads.

Possibly a sandwort.

We followed the trail up a knoll to get a view of Upper Bonny Lake, then left the trail to climb to the top of the rocks to get a view down to the meadows behind the lower lake.

Upper Bonny Lake

Lower Bonny Lake

Aneroid Mountain from the knoll.

After exploring the knoll we headed back down to the lower lake to admire the view once more before starting back.

Spotted sandpiper

Elephants head

White mariposa lily and buckwheat

Jacob’s ladder

Checker-mallow and white mariposa lilies along the trail.

Scouler’s woolly-weed

Gentians

Goldenrod and yarrow

Nuttal’s linanthus

North Fork Big Sheep Creek

The McCully Creek Trail is shown on maps as joining the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail just to the west of the North Fork Big Sheep Creek crossing but neither of us noticed any sign of its existence. That trail theoretically climbs to Big Sheep Basin then over a pass to McCully Creek where we’d hiked the previous day (post). After taking a short break at the creek crossing we hiked the 1.1-miles down to the damaged bridge and then back to the trailhead.

The haze from the morning had improved now that the Sun had moved on from the east.

Looking down at the un-damaged bridge over a side stream.

Yellow columbine

Big Sheep Creek.

This hike came to 9-miles with a little under 1500′ of elevation gain due to us wandering around a bit at the lake and a couple of other times along the trail.

We drove back to our room in Enterprise and ordered pick-up from Thai Enterprise which Heather picked up shortly before a strong thunderstorm passed through. A little before 5pm we heard the first boom then the wind really picked up. Emergency vehicles were racing through town and debris was flying all over for about 15-20 minutes. The winds calmed down, but the thunder continued off and on for several more hours. We were watching fire reports closely and a new start, the Camelback Fire, was reported at 4:43pm near Highway 82 which was our route home on Friday. Interstate 84 was already closed along with several other highways due to various fires so we were starting to wonder if we would be able to get home. Fortunately the Oregon Department of Forestry was able to jump on this start quickly had managed to have it contained shortly before 10pm. We were also uncertain as to if we would be able to do our planned hike to Minam Lake the next day or if new fires would be ending our vacation early. If that were the case at least we’d gotten to see the wonderful wildflowers and Bonny Lakes which was our favorite hike of the trip thus far. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Bonny Lakes

Tags Aneroid Mountain, Big Sheep Creek, Bonny Lakes, Bonny Lakes Trail, eagle cap wilderness, enterprise, hiking, McCully Creek Trail, Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek, North Fork Big Sheep Creek, Oregon, Tenderfoot Trailhead, Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail, Wallow-Whitman National Forest. Main Eagle Trailhead, Wallowa Mountains, wildflowers, Wing Ridge Trail

Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

McCully Basin – 07/23/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 30, 2024
4 Comments on McCully Basin – 07/23/2024

For the third hike of our vacation we landed on McCully Basin. While it was supposed to be slightly cooler than it had been Sunday or Monday and also than what the forecast for Wednesday was it was still going to be in the mid-80’s. McCully Basin was another hike where Sullivan describes three options: a 9.2-mile hike to a creek crossing, an 11.6-mile hike to McCully Basin, and a 12.8-mile hike to a pass. While we’ve typically tried to do as much of Sullivan’s featured hikes as possible (post) the combination of the weather and my problematic left leg had us focused on just doing as much of the hikes as we felt comfortable with. For this hike Heather set a goal of the creek crossing, and I was hoping to make it to McCully Basin if my leg, which had been feeling progressively better, wasn’t bothering me.

We again arrived at the McCully Trailhead just before 6am to avoid hiking in the hottest part of the day.

We took a short trail which brought us to the service road for Mount Howard.

We turned right on this road and followed it uphill for a third of a mile to a sign for the McCully Creek Trail.
East Peak

Spreading dogbane

The start of the McCully Creek Trail (to the left).

The trail initially follows an old roadbed before becoming single track.

Shortly after becoming single track we came across a pair of spruce grouses.

The trail climbed gradually through a nice forest with lupine and other wildflowers arriving at the creek crossing 4.6-miles from the trailhead.

Paintbrush and pussytoes along with the lupine.

Pink pyrola

Monkshood

Tall bulebells

Penstemon

Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness.

Yellow columbine

Arnica and fleabane

Coiled lousewort

The McCully Creek crossing.

Elephants head at the crossing.

I was feeling good so I forded the creek and continued on while Heather stopped at the creek for a break. There was a small meadow on the far side of the creek then the trail made its steepest climb yet before leveling out again and passing through several small meadows.

Paintbrush in the meadow.

Fleabane (or aster) in the meadow.

Wallowa paintbrush

Cusick’s speedwell

The first blowdown we encountered.

To reach the meadows in McCully Basin I needed to leave the trail and hike cross-country. Sullivan described leaving the trail just as it begins to steepen 0.6-miles from the creek crossing. It was easy enough to find where the trail steepened.

His description was to turn right and recross McCully Creek in 200′ then climb a 60′ sandy hillside and continue another 200′ to find the first of three main meadows.
Heading cross-country to McCully Creek.

Where I recrossed the creek.

I don’t think I angled right enough when I left the trail because I found myself on a steep hillside that would have been more than a 60′ climb. Checking my GPS I could see that I was near a ridge end, so I traversed up and round it using game trails. I then dropped down to what looked like a seldom used campsite near the edge of the first meadow.
Heading down to a flat opening which could serve as a campsite.

Arriving at the first meadow.

The meadow was very wet which made it tricky to get very far out. Once I had made it far enough to get a good view I declared victory and didn’t attempt to go further.
Aneroid Mountain

A few flowers in the meadow.

Bistort

Shooting stars

After taking in the meadow I headed back. I stayed lower around the ridge this time but then crossed the creek above where I’d crossed earlier and climbed steeply uphill on the far side to find the McCully Creek Trail above where it steepened.

Looking down toward where I left the trail to bushwack to the meadow.

I headed back to the creek crossing where Heather was waiting and then we hiked back to the car. We didn’t see any other hikers, but the butterflies were out in force.

Jacob’s ladder

Orange agoseris

Fritillary

Crescent

Bog orchid

Tortoiseshell

Red-breasted nuthatch

The gate on the service road had been opened at some point.

Swallowtail

My hike wound up being an even 11-miles with a little over 2000′ of elevation gain. It was a little shorter than Sullivan’s description, but he showed going 0.6-miles off-trail while I only proceeded 0.3-miles to reach the meadow. There did appear to be a path I could have followed had I wanted to walk through a lot of mud so maybe later in the year the meadow is more dried out and easier to pass through.

We drove back to Enterprise, cleaned up and changed, then had an early dinner at Heavenly’s. There was still a red flag warning for heat and afternoon thunderstorms forecast for Wednesday so we stuck with our plan to hike to Bonny Lakes the next day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: McCully Basin

Tags butterflies, eagle cap wilderness, hiking, McCully Basin, McCully Creek, McCully Creek Trail, Oregon, Range Rider, Spruce Grouse, Wallowa Mountains, Wallowa-Whitman National Forest

Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Hurricane Creek – 07/22/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 29, 2024
4 Comments on Hurricane Creek – 07/22/2024

After our short hikes along Hat Point Road on Sunday (post) we had shuffled our planned hikes for the rest of the week. It was going to be hot for the first half of the week with the possibility of thunderstorms Monday afternoon and evening. In addition, I was dealing with a couple of nagging left leg issues which had me wanting to avoid overly strenuous hikes.

For Monday we decided to try Hurricane Creek. Sullivan lists three options for this featured hike in his “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook. The options are a 0.6-mile hike to Falls Creek Falls, a 6.2-mile hike to Slick Rock gorge, and a 15.4-mile hike to Echo Lake. The latter gains 3400′ of elevation, most of which comes in the final three miles to the lake. We had originally hoped to make it to the lake, but that was obviously off the table now. Our plan now was to try and make it to the gorge, but we were prepared to turn around if needed.

We arrived at the Hurricane Creek Trailhead just before 6am to try and beat both the heat and any potential thunderstorms.

We set off on the Hurricane Creek Trail and after 0.1-miles detoured right on the Falls Creek Trail to see the falls.

Canadian milk-vetch

The Falls Creek Trail on the right.

Less than a quarter mile up this trail we arrived at a view of the falls.

Mock orange

After visiting the falls we returned to the Hurricane Creek Trail and continued on.

The Falls Creek crossing.

Twin Peaks from Falls Creek.

The trail followed Hurricane Creek fairly closely which provided plenty of views of it.

Geranium

Paintbrush

A paintbrush hiding in fleabane.

Robin

The trail crossed a rocky area caused by an avalanche.

Doe with one of her two fawns that were down at the creek at the avalanche area.

Mountain death-camas

The Hurwal Divide to the left of Sacajawea Peak.

Rosy pussytoes

Hurricane Divide (south)

At the 1.7-mile mark we came to Deadman Creek with a view of Deadman Falls.

Deadman Creek

Western tanager

Hurricane Creek

Slick Rock Creek flowing down from the right in the distance.

The trail made a couple of switchbacks to climb above Hurricane Rapids.

Just over the 3-mile mark we arrived at Slick Rock Creek.

The creek crossing.

We took a nice long break at this creek to enjoy the views and flowers.
Harebells and stonecrop

Paintbrush below the falls.

Arnica

Wallowa paintbrush, yellow columbine, milk-vetch, and northern sweetvetch.

Faint rainbow in the falls.

Butterfly on Rocky Mountain goldenrod.

Yellow fleabane

This may be common butterwort, but I’m not positive.

Yellow columbine

Spider hunting a moth. There was a brief scuffle, but the moth escaped unharmed.

Penstemon

After our rest we headed back. We detoured at the base of the switchbacks to check out Hurricane Rapids.

Sagebrush mariposa lily

It was a warm but pleasant hike back to the car.
Despite all the wildfires the views were pretty good as long as the Sun was at our backs.

Nuttal’s linathus

Wood nymph

There was haze to our backs though.

Rose along the trail.

A Sulphur butterfly.

A pale crescent on fleabane.

Our hike including the two detours came to 7.3-miles with approximately 900′ of elevation gain.

My leg held up pretty well and we were finished just after 11am so we had stayed ahead of the worst of the heat. The afternoon and evening thunderstorms mostly avoided the areas where our remaining hikes for the week were located. The only bad news was that another red flag warning had been issued to Wednesday when temperatures were forecast to hit the 90’s again and more afternoon thunderstorms were possible. We adjusted our schedule again to have our next shortest outing be that morning and moved the slightly longer hike to McCully Basin up to Tuesday. It was shaping up to be an interesting week, and one that we were going to need to be very flexible with. After cleaning up in our room in Enterprise we headed to dinner at Range Rider. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hurricane Creek

Tags Deadman Falls, eagle cap wilderness, falls creek, Falls Creek Falls, hiking, Hurricane Creek, Hurricane Creek Trail, Hurricane Creek Trailhead, Oregon, Slick Rock Creek, Slick Rock Gorge, Wallowa Mountains, Wallowa-Whitman National Forest

Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Granny View Overlook and Hat Pont Lookout – 07/21/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 28, 2024
2 Comments on Granny View Overlook and Hat Pont Lookout – 07/21/2024

With just twelve hikes remaining for us to complete our long-term goal of hiking, or at least attempting to hike, 500 featured hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes” guidebook series we spent a week of vacation based in Enterprise, OR to try and cut that number in half. All twelve remaining hikes were from Sullivan’s “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook with eleven located in the Wallow Mountains, and the other being at Hat Point above Hells Canyon.

There were some question marks heading into the week. First a massive thunderstorm passed over much of Oregon on July 17th resulting in over 1000 lightning strikes, many of which were dry meaning that little to no rain was falling to the ground. While the storm had missed the Wallowas and Hat Point, dozens of fires were ignited across the state adding to several large human (idiot) caused fires that were already burning. The second issue was that I had been dealing with a tight left calf that developed after a bad step on our July 4th hike to Horsepasture Mountain (post). The calf itself wasn’t hurting, but it seemed to be aggravating my peroneal tendon. On top of that issue a few days before vacation I turned awkwardly while standing and irritated something in my left knee. I wasn’t sure how much hiking I would actually be able to do.

Fortunately the first hike that we had planned for the week was Hat Point which Sullivan lists three options for. The easiest option is two short loops gaining just 100′ of elevation. The other options are a 10.2-mile hike from Hat Point to a viewpoint 2600′ below the trailhead and a 15.4-mile hike to the Snake River that loses 5600′. Originally the plan was to try the 10.2-mile option, but with my leg issues and an excessive heat warning in effect we agreed the two short loops were the way to go. We started by parking at the Granny View Overlook where, despite it being before 6:30am the temperature was already close to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
It was warm and smokey at the viewpoint.

We set off on the mostly paved loop in a counterclockwise direction.

Most of the flowers were past bloom which we expected knowing that late June/early July would be better here, but too early for most of the other hikes we had planned for this vacation. There was still enough blooming though to make it interesting and there was still a little view despite the smoke.

Yarrow

White mariposa lily

Aster

Sulphur buckwheat

Scarlet gilia

Bee visiting some penstemon

Imnaha River canyon

A small section of the loop was lost in a 2022 wildfire.

The other end of the missing trail.

One of several interpretive signs along the loop.

Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

This appeared to be the last of the elkhorn clarkia in bloom.

Looking down wasn’t bad, but we couldn’t really make out any of the mountain peaks in the distance.

Taper-tip onions

A smokey Sun was heating things up fast.

After the short loop here we continued on Hat Point Road to the Hat Point Lookout, stopping along the way to take some photos of a couple of birds.
Grouse

One of a pair of hawks.

The Hat Point Lookout from the parking area.

We followed a paved trail uphill to the start of a loop and turned left (counterclockwise).

Paintbrush

The start of the loop.

Fireweed

The loop took us around the lookout to a ramp where we detoured to the base of the tower.

The lookout staffer?

Sunlight reflecting off of the Snake River in Hells Canyon.

Hidden in the haze are the Seven Devils mountains in Idaho.

Penstemon

The tower was closed to the public due to safety concerns.

Hells Canyon is deeper than the Grand Canyon from its highest point, 9,393′ He Devil in Idaho at 8,043′ from the river. The depth from Hat Point to the river is 5,632′.

After visiting the lookout we continued on the loop which passed an outhouse where there was an option for a shorter return loop.

Mountain coyote mint

Lewis flax

We opted for the slightly longer loop and stayed left to a viewing platform.

Continuing on the loop brought us to another interpretive sign near a bench.

Near this sign we located the trail that led down to the Snake River. There was a level ridge end a short distance below, so we decided to hike down to it.

The tread was faint in spots amid the patches of wildflowers.

There was a small rock outcrop at the ridge end.

This is where we turned around not wanting to lose anymore elevation and have to climb back up on what was already an uncomfortably warm day. As it turns out we were just about at the boundary of the Hells Canyon Wilderness.

The lookout from our turn around point.

We started back up toward the loop but veered left on a dirt trail that led past the unoccupied lookout staff quarters.

Hat Point Trail sign near the quarters.

This trailhead sign was in a large parking area near the quarters, but there were “No Parking” signs along the road here.

We then followed a path uphill past a gate near the quarters to the paved loop where we turned left to return to our car.

Lupine

The two hikes came to just under 1.5-miles. While it was an unusually short day for us it was the right call, and we felt good about the decision to keep it short and sweet.

On the drive down we did stop at a small pullout with an interpretive sign called the Five Mile Overlook.

Imnaha River canyon

Imnaha from the Five Mile Overlook.

These were nice hikes despite the conditions, but we would definitely like to come back either earlier in the Summer at peak bloom or in Autumn when it might not be so hot and smokey. For now we had one more featured hike we could cross off our list and officially be done with every area in the State save for the Wallowas. We drove back to Enterprise and after getting cleaned up headed to Jospeh for an early dinner at the Flying Pig Bar. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Granny View Overlook and Hat Point

Tags Five Mile Overlook, Granny View Overlook, Hat Point, Hat Point Road, Hells Canyon, Hells Canyon Wilderness, hiking, Imnaha River Canyon, Oregon, Snake River

Bull of the Woods/Opal Creek Hiking Mollala Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Joyce Lake and Nasty Rock – 07/13/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 15, 2024
2 Comments on Joyce Lake and Nasty Rock – 07/13/2024

Our quest to seek out new to us trails had us turning back to Matt Reeder’s “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region” (1st edition). Because the book was released in 2016 it pre-dates the 2020 Riverside and Beachie Creek Fires that devastated much of this region leaving many of the hike descriptions out-of-date. We were fortunate enough to experience most of the hikes, at least in part, prior to those fires.

One of the hikes that we had not yet gotten to was Reeder’s hike #4-Upper Molalla Divide. Reeder describes three options starting at two different trailheads ranging from a 0.7-mile loop at Joyce Lake and a 2.8-mile out-and-back to Nasty Rock. These hikes largely escaped the recent fires except for a couple of small sections of the trail to Nasty Rock scarred by the 2020 Beachie Creek Fire. On the other hand, other than the trail around Joyce Lake, the trails are rarely if ever maintained.

We decided to start our day at Joyce Lake when we found the trailhead parking area empty. Two of the three described hikes start from this trailhead, the very short loop around Joyce Lake, and a 2.6-mile loop combining the abandoned Baty Butte Trail and gravel roads.
The unsigned trail enters the forest across from a small pullout.

The trail quickly arrives at a campsite where we then headed left on the loop around the lake which is stocked with fish.

Bunchberry

Fish

Rough skinned newt

After completing the loop around the lake we headed back toward the road from the campsite looking for the abandoned Baty Butte Trail. It wasn’t easy to spot but a metal diamond on a tree marked the start of this trail.

After pushing through some Rhododendron the trail became a little easier to follow.

We had hiked a portion of this old trail in 2019 to Baty Butte itself (post) and were hoping to get more of the trail in, but just under half a mile from the start of the trail we came to a small talus slope.
Flagging and some old trail maintenance along the Baty Butte Trail.

On the far side of the talus a tree had fallen onto the thick vegetation creating a matt of leaves and branches that covered the tread.
We could see the tread continuing on the other side of the thicket.

Vegetation covering the trail.

We initially thought that we might be able to dip below the downed tree, but the hillside below was covered with thorny devil’s club. Going up and around didn’t look any more promising, and even if we did find a way around this there was another mile of trail before reaching a powerline road that we would be turning onto. We accepted defeat here and turned back. Between Joyce Lake and the failed attempt at the longer loop our hike here was just 1.5-miles with a couple hundred feet of elevation gain.

From the Joyce Lake Trailhead we continued 3.9-miles to the trailhead for the Nasty Rock Hike. (Note that online searches and Google maps for the Nasty Rock Trailhead will provide results for the Willamette National Forest’s Nasty Rock Trailhead which is currently closed due to the Beachie Creek fire and does not actually lead to Nasty Rock.)
The trailhead is located at a turnaround at the end of BLM road 7-4E-11.1.

The BLM refers the Nasty Rock Trail as “historic” and the area was part of a BLM study for addition to the adjacent Opal Creek Wilderness in 2013. That study found that the area met all the criteria and characteristics for a wilderness, but the addition never moved forward. The 2013 study mentioned that the trail was not being annually maintained but it was still “usable”. Having just been turned back on our earlier hike we were prepared for a similar experience here, although a 2022 trip report on Oregonhikers.org indicated that the trail was still passable at that time. While the trail itself still shows on the BLM’s recreation map there is no trailhead symbol shown.

Before setting off we took a moment to admire the roadside wildflowers.

Oregon sunshine, lupine and paintbrush.

Larkspur, paintbrush, and Oregon sunshine.

Penstemon, paintbrush, and valerian.

The Nasty Rock Trail, like the Baty Butte Trail, was not obvious from the parking area. Again a metal diamond on a tree helped us locate the trail heading uphill from the road below.

The trail initially climbs as it wraps around a shoulder of Burnt Mountain. The tread is narrow in places, and a bit overgrown.

Westen featherbells

Bistort

Arnica

Bear sign on the trail.

Paintbrush and lousewort

The trail then traversed the hillside below Burnt Mountain entering the Beachie Creek fire scar a third of a mile from the start of the trail.
Nasty Rock from the trail.

Entering the fire scar.

The trail was especially overgrown in the fire scar.

Penstemon

Columbine along the trail.

Valerian

Exiting the fire scar after less than 100 yards.

The trail continued on a fairly level grade past Burnt Mountain then curving to the West as it followed a ridge toward Nasty Rock.

While none of the several downed trees posed much of an issue the condition of the trail made for slow going.

The trail crossed the ridge near the mile mark where views opened up.
Nasty Rock sticking up ahead.

Not Nasty Rock further along the ridge and in the Beachie Creek fire scar.

Wildflowers were blooming in the openings along the ridge.

Arrowleaf buckwheat

Checkerspot on Oregon sunshine

Oregon sunshine

Table Rock (post)

Mt. Hood peecking up from behind a ridge.

Scarlet gilia

Nasty Rock from the trail.

Flowers below the trail.

Flowers above the trail.

Buckwheat

As the trail neared Nasty Rock it entered another section of forest burned in the Beachie Creek fire.

The trail steepened noticeably before effectively ending on the SW shoulder of Nasty Rock.

There were a lot of nice Washington lilies below Nasty Rock with more to come over the next week or two.

Wintergreen

Nasty Rock from the trail.

The trail below Nasty Rock.

Nasty Rock from the end of the “trail”. Prior to the 2020 fire a rougher use trail continued on to Not Nasty Rock, but we didn’t see any obvious tread. (We weren’t really looking though either.) We made the fairly easy scramble to the top of Nasty Rock and took a short break.

The view was all too familiar with the horizon filled with wildfire smoke. Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood were easy to see, but other Cascades such as Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, and the Three Sisters were barely visible through the haze.
Mt. Jefferson from Nasty Rock.

Mt. Jefferson with the flat-topped Battle Ax (post), and rounded Whetstone Mountain (post) to the right.

Mt. Hood in the distance.

French Creek Ridge with the rounded Marten Buttes (post) in the foreground. Behind is the flat-topped Coffin Mountain (post), Mt. Washington, and the Three Sisters.

Looking out across the Molalla River drainage to the Table Rock Wilderness.

Rooster Rock is the rock outcrop to the left with Table Rock the tall feature to the right. Pechuck Lookout can be seen on the lower hilltop in the center foreground.

Not Nasty Rock from Nasty Rock. The highest peak diagonally left of Not Nasty Rock is Rocky Top (post).

We were joined at the summit by a swarm of flying ants obsessed with this fir tree.

After our break we headed back. There were several breaks along the way as we stopped to watch the numerous butterflies visiting the flowers.
Checkerspot on Oregon sunshine

Swallowtail resting on serviceberry.

Blue bells of Scotland

Fritillaries on mountain coyote mint

Clodius parnassian on mountain coyote mint.

Fleabane

Buckwheats, paintbrush, Oregon sunshine and at least one butterfly.

Scarlet gilia

Larkspur

Washington lily

Inside-out flower

Fritillary

Beardtongue

Pink pyrola

Bead lily a.k.a. Queen’s cup

Bunchberry

Cat’s ear mariposa lily

Approaching the road.

Another round of roadside flowers occurred before packing up and heading home.

Larkspur and yarrow

Checkerspots on Oregon sunshine

Including the roadside flower wanderings our hike here came to 3 miles with approximately 600′ of elevation gain.

At 4.5 miles total these two stops made for a fairly easy day despite the rough trail conditions. The roads were in good shape to both trailheads, but please note that the area sees heavy log truck traffic on weekdays. We didn’t see anyone during either stops and somewhat surprisingly still didn’t see anyone parked at the Joyce Lake Trailhead when we passed back by close to Noon.

Nasty Rock was a bit of a bittersweet hike seeing all of the familiar areas burned by the 2020 fires, but we were glad to have finally made it up there. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Joyce Lake and Nasty Rock

Tags Baty Butte Trail, blm, Butterfly, hiking, Joyce Lake, Molalla Divide, Molalla River, Nasty Rock, Nasty Rock Trail, Nasty Rock Trailhead, Not Nasty Rock, opal creek wilderness, Oregon, wildflowers

Corvallis Hiking Oregon Salem/Albany Willamette Valley

Independence Riverfront Parks – 07/06/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 9, 2024
No Comments on Independence Riverfront Parks – 07/06/2024

The arrival of a heat dome on July 4th had us rethinking our hiking plans. We’d had a nice but warm hike on the Olallie Trail on the 4th (post), but the heat was only forecasted to get worse over the next few days. We were still recovering from that hike but still wanted to get out for a short stroll to stretch our legs, so we decided to make the fifteen minute drive to Independence, OR for a walk along the Willamette River.

The city of Independence has been developing parks along the river over the last 20+ years starting with Riverview Park which opened in 2005. Our plan was to start at this park and hike north past the community dog park and around the Independence Sports Park which is still under development. Due to the city’s 4th of July celebrations we weren’t able to park at the park so we began our hike from South D Street and walked down Osprey Lane to reach the park.

From the northern end of the park’s parking area we crossed Ash Creek on a footbridge.

Ash Creek

On the far side of the bridge we spotted a doe who was on her way to the creek.

After watching the doe for a while we continued on. The wide paved path made for an easy stroll. It was early enough that it wasn’t too warm yet, and most of the path was in the shade which also helped.

In addition to the single doe we spotted a variety of birds along our route.

Passing the dog park.

Sign at the start of the sports park.

Bird in a nest.

Interpretive sign along the trail.

Shortly after entering the sports park we forked right onto the soft surface Willamette River Trail

Stellar’s jay

Flowers along the path.

Eventually the field on the left will be developed into sports fields.

Vetch

Morning sunlight showing why it’s a robin “red breast”.

Sparrow

Going around the open field brought is into the sunlight, but it still hadn’t warmed up too much.

Swallows

Spotted towhee with breakfast.

When we got back to Riverview Park instead of taking Osprey Lane back to our car we took a paved path from the southern end of the parking area.
Amphitheater at Riverview Park.

This paved path passed between the river and apartments for a little over a third of a mile to South Main Street where we turned right (north) for a block to return to South D Street and our car.
Willamette River

Killdeer

Pointers on South Main Street.

This was a perfect recovery walk coming in a 3.1-miles with virtually no elevation gain.

We were pleasantly surprised with the number of birds and how nice the parks looked even after having just hosted the 4th of July celebrations. Hopefully the heat dome will move on soon and that will be the end of abnormally warm weather for the Summer, but it’s nice to have options such as this available. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Independence Riverfront Parks

Tags Ash Creek, hiking, Independence, Independence Community Dog Park, Independence Sports Park, Oregon, Riverview Park, willamette river, Willamette River Trail

Hiking

Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountain – 07/04/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 8, 2024
7 Comments on Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountain – 07/04/2024

A heat dome was forecasted to arrive on Independence Day with the hottest temperatures expected over the weekend. We were hopeful that we could sneak our traditional 4th of July hike in before the heat arrived as it had been a fairly mild week leading up to the holiday. The hike we had planned was to take the Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountain starting at the Olallie North Trailhead.

We had visited Horsepasture Mountain back in 2018 via the Saddle Trail (post) which is a shorter approach by approximately five miles with 1000′ less elevation gain. Shorter still is starting at the Horsepasture Trailhead, but that is a longer drive and would have meant missing out on the section of the Olallie Trail that we hadn’t hiked before.
Trail map at the trailhead.

From the trailhead the Olallie Trail switchbacked up a ridge through a mixed forest before straightening out and following the ridge SE.

Rhododendron

Scouler’s bluebells

Twinflower and fringed pinesap

Sugar sticks

A section of the trail passed through the 2017 Avenue fire scar, but the tread was in good shape and all trees were cleared from the trail.

Mt. Washington was the first high Cascade Peak we obtained a view of.

North and Middle Sister followed next.

The trail spent some time on top of the ridge as well as each side as it gradually climbed.

Tiger lilies

Washington lilies were blooming along a section of the trail.

Washington lilies

Paintbrush

Northern phlox

Penstemon

Garter snake

Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

Entering trees that survived the 2017 fire.

The hillsides that the trail traverses are pretty steep.

Common whipplea

Regaining the ridge top.

Better view of Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack with Maxwell Butte (post) and South Cinder Peak (post) in between.

Shortly after leaving the fire scar the trail began to steepen a bit.

Bunchberry, queen’s cup, and foam flower.

Near the 3.5-mile mark the trail crossed an abandoned forest road and steepened again

It had been warming up quickly and Heather and I had decided to split a little below this road crossing. Despite not being able to spell “Heather” without “Heat” it is her hiking nemesis. We set a time that would be the latest I headed back at and chose the road crossing as a meeting point. Heather planned on continuing but wasn’t sure how far she would feel comfortable going. We set the road as a meeting point so that if she didn’t make it up Horsepasture Mountain before I headed back I would know I’d missed here somewhere along the trail if I got to the road and she wasn’t there.

A tenth of a mile beyond the road crossing the O’Leary Mountain Trail joined from the right.
We had hiked to MacDuff Mountain on the O’Leary Trail just a few weeks earlier (post).

Beyond the junction the Olallie Trail leveled out then slowly descended 200′ over the next 1.1 miles to a junction with the Saddle Trail. The hillsides along this section were fairly exposed to the Sun which warmed things up even more, but also provided some nice wildflower displays.

This section also had a few smaller trees down over it.

Columbine

Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, and Scott Mountain (post).

Trillium

Valerian

Wallflower and buckwheat

Purple larkspur, yellow cinquefoil, and white sub-alpine mariposa lilies

Paintbrush and lupine

North and Middle Sister with Horsepasture Mountain on the right.

Oregon bluebells

Penstemon

Butterfly on bistort

Musk monkeyflower

A stalk of beargrass along the trail.

Jacob’s-ladder

Bane berry and solomonseal

Vanilla leaf

The Saddle Trail arriving from the right.

One hundred yards downhill from the Saddle Trail junction I arrived at a 4-way junction with the Horsepasture Mountain Trail.
Downhill to the left is the Horsepasture Trailhead, uphill to the left is Horsepasture Mountain and the Olallie Trail continues along the righthand fork.

From the junction the Horsepasture Mountain Trail climbs over 850′ in a little under a mile and a half. The trail begins with a steady traverse along the side of Horsepasture Mountain before switching back after a litte more than three quarters of a mile.

Arnica, bunchberry and vanilla leaf

Fleabane

Often switchbacks allow for a more gradual climb but here the trail launched steeply uphill through small meadows switching back two more times before heading steeply up the open shoulder of Horsepasture Mountain.
It was not a big year for beargrass but if you pick the right year there is an impressive amount along this trail.

Second snake of the day. I wound up seeing three on the day which was two more than other trail users, excluding Heather.

If you look closely you might pick out the blue shirt worn by the only other hiker I encountered.

Mt. Bachelor from the shoulder of Horsepasture Mountain.

Final pitch to the top.

The wildflowers were near peak, and the hillside was literally buzzing with pollinators busy flying from flower to flower. The views extended from Mt. Hood in the north and south to Diamond Peak.
Pollinator photobomb in the upper left.

Diamond Peak to the south.

The Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor on the horizon.

Lupine, bluehead gilia, paintbrush, and pussytoes?

The former lookout site with Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson behind.

The summit

Survey marker

Diamond Peak from the summit.

The Three Sisters

Mt. Washington, Scott Mountain, Belknap Crater (post), and Black Crater (post).

Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack

I had passed the other gentleman on the switchbacks, but we spoke briefly at the summit. He remarked how it isn’t often that you get both a great view and peak wildflowers on the same hike in Oregon. We both searched out spots with a little shade for a much-needed respite from the heat. While I put on a new pair of socks and had a snack I was able to message with Heather who was almost to the switchbacks. I wandered around the summit for a few minutes admiring the flowers and then got another message from Heather that she was wisely not going to attempt the final steep climb so I headed back to her.

Scarlet gilia

Buckwheat and bluehead gilia

An aster or fleabane

Paintbrush with penstemon in the background.

Butterfly on bluehead gilia

Butterfly and bees

I believe this is a persius duskywing (Erynnis persius)

Vetch?

This outcrop is just slightly lower than the summit.

Cliff beardtongue on the rocks with the Three Sisters and Mt. Bachelor behind.

Phlox

Bastard toadflax

I met Heather at the switchbacks and we headed back together. We stopped at the 4-way junction for a short break which I used to hike 50 yards down to the Horsepasture Trailhead.

The 200′ climb from the 4-way junction to the O’Leary Trail junction was hot, but thankfully that was it as far as climbing went for the day and the remaining 3.5-miles were downhill. The combination of going downhill and a slight breeze provided a little relief to the heat.
Passing the Saddle Trail on the way back.

Eight-spotted forester

Blue-eyed Mary

Horsepasture Mountain

Waterleaf

Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Washington

North and Middle Sister

Larkspur

Anemones and spotted coralroot

Pink pyrola

Clodius parnassian on a tiger lily.

Fireweed

The lower portion of the trail included some madrone trees.

It was right around 90 degrees at the trailhead when we got back at 2:30pm.

I had expected this hike to be a little under 12 miles with approximately 3200′ of elevation gain. My GPS ended up with 12.5 miles, most of which can be attributed to my wandering around at the summit. The detour down to the Horsepasture Trailhead added less than a tenth of a mile.

This was a great hike that only missed spectacular due to how hot it was. The Olallie Trail was in good shape and the climb was extremely well graded. The view from Horsepasture Mountain is a good one and hitting the peak wildflower display only enhances it. We were really shocked to have only seen the one other person, but maybe, just maybe most other people are smarter than we are. With the heat dome expected to continue for several days the 2024 wildflower show will most likely be over quickly, but there is always next year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Olallie Trail to Horsepasture Mountian

Tags Avenue Fire, hiking, Horsepasture Mountain, Horspasture Trailhead. Horsepasture Mountain Trail, mountain view, O'Leary Mountain Trail, O'Leary Mountain Trail Complex, Olallie North Trailhead, Olallie Trail, Oregon, Saddle Trail, Willamette National Forest

Hiking Oakridge Area Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Hiyu Ridge via Grasshopper Meadow – 06/29/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 1, 2024
No Comments on Hiyu Ridge via Grasshopper Meadow – 06/29/2024

**Note the 2024 Young Grasshopper Fire burned over a portion of this hike including Grasshopper Meadow.**

In 2017 we did an overnight backpack to Grasshopper Meadow via Chucksney Mountain (post). During that trip we hiked a 9.8-mile section of the 13.5-mile long Grasshopper Mountain Trail #3569. The section covered was from the Box Canyon Trailhead to the base of Grasshopper Mountain. The trail does not go up the mountain’s summit but instead from the saddle at the base heads around the mountain and then follows Hiyu Ridge down to the Grasshopper Trailhead (approx 4 miles from the saddle).

Grasshopper Meadow was a beautiful destination making a second visit appealing and including the remainder of the Grasshopper Mountain Trail pushed it up on our list of planned hikes. We had a decision to make regarding where to start for this second visit though. In his “100 Hikes Central Oregon Cascades” guidebook Sullivan includes the hike from the Grasshopper Trailhead along Hiyu Ridge in the more hikes section at the back of the book. He also includes a hike to Grasshopper Meadow via the Grasshopper Meadow Trail in the back of the book beginning 850′ below the ridge at the top of the meadow at what is marked on Google Maps as the Grasshopper Meadow Trailhead. Hike Oregon also covers the same hike on their website here. Interestingly the Forest Service map and website do not mention this trailhead, but they do show the Grasshopper Meadow Trail #3314. We opted to start at the Grasshopper Meadow Trailhead for two main reasons. First it would allow us to pass through Grasshopper Meadow at two different times of the day instead of it being our turnaround point. The second, and more important reason, was Sullivan’s description of the hike along Hiyu Ridge indicated that we should be prepared to step over some logs. That’s code for lack of trail maintenance which could mean that this section of the trail could be impassable. The Forest Service website didn’t provide any trail conditions. We could have called to check, but we figured worst case scenario we could redo some of the 2017 hike if necessary.

A word of warning regarding the drive to this trailhead. There was about a half mile section of Road 1929 where a good amount of gullying has occurred. We’d recommend high clearance, but somehow there was a Toyota Prius parked here (just out of frame).

The trail began with a gradual climb through a mixed conifer forest before steepening as the meadows began.
Valerian along the trail.

Vanilla leaf and anemones carpeting the forest floor.

There were wildflowers along the vast majority of this hike which resulted in our taking way too many photos. I will try and limit what I include here, just know that what gets shared will be a small portion of what we saw.
Star-flowered false solomonseal.

Coneflower with lupine behind.

Penstemon

Near the three-quarter mile mark we took a short spur trail to the left to visit a spring at the base of a post.

Monkeyflower

We continued steeply uphill from the spring for 0.3-miles where we took another short spur trail, this time to the right and a view of Diamond Peak.

Lupine

Sub-alpine mariposa lily

Moth on fleabane.

Waterleaf

Tiger lily

Pussytoes

From left to right the peaks with snow are: The Twins (post), Maiden Peak (post), Fuji Mountain (post), and Diamond Peak (post).

Diamond Peak

We continued uphill from the viewpoint following the trail to a post in a large rocky area that was filled with larkspur.

Grasshopper Mountain above the meadow.

The post in the rocky area.

When we visited in 2017 it had been mid-July, and the larkspur show was over.

The Grasshopper Meadow Trail ends at these rocks for all intents and purposes. There is no clear path from the post up to the Grasshopper Mountain Trail which is approximately 150′ above running along the ridge. We made our way uphill trying to avoid as many plants as possible and picked up the trail which was marked by periodic rock cairns.
A cairn marks the Grasshopper Mountain Trail.

We turned left on the trail and headed toward Grasshopper Mountain.

Looking out over the meadow.

Fuji Mountain and Diamond Peak

The saddle below Grasshopper Mountain.

From the ridgetop we gained a view to the NE which included the Three Sisters, Broken Top, and Mt. Bachelor (post).

The Three Sisters and Broken Top

Mt. Bachelor

We crossed over the ridge and continued on the Grasshopper Mountain Trail which was, as we had suspected, in need of some trail maintenance.
The last of the snow, at least it is all we saw.

Glacier lilies near the tiny snow patch.

It was evident that the trail does get maintained on occasion, but none of it appeared recent near Grasshopper Mountain.

Crossing over the ridge changed the mix of wildflowers we’d been seeing adding in some early season bloomers such as trillium.

Anemone

Violets

Bleeding heart

Oregon bluebells

The trail passed through a small fire scar on the backside of Grasshopper Mountain where we had to briefly leave the trail to find a way over and around blowdown.

The Three Sisters and Broken Top were visible from this area.

Back on the slightly overgrown trail.

As we made our way through the fire scar more mountains joined the view including Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson.

Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

Bears appear to use the trail more than hikers. This was the largest of three piles we’d pass on the day.

Arnica

After navigating the fire scar we were able to more or less stay on the tread save for a couple of brief detours around blowdown. That being said there were numerous trees that we had to step, or in some cases climb over. There were also numerous burrows to watch out for along with a lot of forest debris which made for a slow and hard hike. The other thing that slowed us down was the sheer number and variety of flowers.
This is both the trail and a front (back) door.

Valerian and tall bluebells

Fairy bells

Meadowrue

Moth on valerian.

Jacob’s-ladder

While the trail was overgrown in places it was passable and the tread was in pretty good shape.

Fringecup

Possibly a speedwell but unsure and it was the only one we saw.

More blowdown to maneuver around.

Edith’s checkerspot

Trail passing through an area full of monkeyflower and larkspur.

Cinquefoil, larkspur, and buckwheat

Scarlet gilia

Paintbrush

Bluehead gilia and silverleaf phacelia

Approximately 1.5-miles from the saddle below Grasshopper Mountain the trail again crossed the ridge to avoid a rocky cliff area.
The rocky area from the trail as it crossed the ridge.

We could see that there were a lot of flowers on the rocks, but the trail dropped below the ridge quickly and my first attempt to scramble up to see the flowers was too soon and I just ended up in the brush on the ridgetop. On our way back I tried again, this time finding the correct spot where I was awarded not only with the amazing flowers but also another great mountain view.
Columbine crowding the trail.

The wildflower covered rocks on the way back.

Arrowleaf buckwheat and Oregon sunshine

The Three Sisters and Broken Top with some clouds moving in.

Paintbrush surrounded by buckwheat, bluehead gilia, and stonecrop.

Scarlet gilia

Wallflower

Wild rose

The trail stayed on the west side of the ridge for the remaining 2.3-miles. Just over a third of a mile from the rocky viewpoint the trail passed a small rock outcrop which we thought looked like and it might be a good spot for a break on the way back. Not far beyond the outcrop we came to another tricky downed log where Heather decided that was enough. She would go back to the outcrop and while I would continue. If the trail was passable I would continue for no more than 45 minutes as it looked like that would be enough time to reach the Grasshopper Trailhead based on the distance shown on the GPS.

Beargrass near the outcrop.

The outcrop from the trail.

Blowdown

More blowdown

Western meadow fritillary

Bunchberry

Recent trail maintenance! There were a couple of cut trees in the final mile, but there were also still many to step over.

I had misjudged two things when Heather and I had split up. One was just how far the trailhead was, and the other was how much elevation I would be losing to get there.
The trail dropped low enough that there were several rhododendron blooming.

Queen’s cup.

South Sister (post) and Broken Top (post).

It turned out I had been almost 2-miles from the trailhead and needed to lose over 850′ of elevation to reach it. Luckily the trail was in a little better shape at this end again. I was able to keep a good pace and I arrived at Grasshopper Saddle with a couple of minutes to spare.

Given that the Forest Service lists this as an official trailhead I was expecting a little more than a post with a road number and a faded laminated sheet of paper.
Had I not just come down the trail I might not have even noticed it was there.

Cardwell’s penstemon

I realized on my way down that while I was making good time going in that direction, I was going to be hard pressed to maintain the same pace going uphill. Fortunately for me it wasn’t a particularly warm day, so it only took me an extra five minutes to make it back to the outcrop. When I joined Heather on the outcrop she said she was just starting to wonder if she should start to worry. (I might have made a little better time had I not kept taking pictures, but then again, those breaks let me catch my breath.)
Starflower

Ginger

Mt. Bachelor through the trees.

Musk monkeyflower

Grasshopper Mountain from the outcrop.

Cliff beardtongue

After I took a much-needed break we headed back. We kept our eyes out for flowers we’d missed on our first pass while we watched the various pollinators visiting the blossoms.
Blue-eyed Mary

Cicada, not a pollinator but interesting to see.

Solomonseal

Variable-leaf collomia

Honeysuckle

Oregon grape

Pollinator 1

Pollinator 2

Pollinator 3 (Clodius parnassian)

Bees on bastard toadflax

Checkerspot on groundsel

Naked broomrape (Aphyllon purpureum)

Penstemon

Our guess is this is mile three from Grasshopper Saddle. We didn’t notice any other numbers and missed this one on our first pass.

Dwarf bramble

Strawberry

Cinquefoil

It started clouding up in the afternoon.

Back at the saddle below Grasshopper Mountain.

We took another break shortly after reaching Grasshopper Meadow then headed down to the spring where we both cooled off using the spring water.

Great artic butterfly. There were a lot of these flying about. Their dorsum is a bright orange, but they rarely would open their wings when they landed.

The checkerspots on the other hand are happy to open their wings.

False hellebore

It clouded up over Diamond Peak as well.

Lewis flax

Orange agoseris

A Lycaendae on a lupine leaf.

Moth on a mariposa lily.

Butterflies gathering at the spring.

After refreshing ourselves with the spring water we continued back to the trailhead where we found the Prius still there. We never saw or heard another person on this hike. Not seeing anyone along Hiyu Ridge isn’t all that surprising given the trail conditions, but not seeing anyone in the meadow was a little surprising.

The Prius at the TH. We parked on the shoulder in a pullout.

The hike from trailhead to trailhead came to 11.5-miles (according to the GPS) with a little over 2000′ of elevation gain (according to the topo maps, and my legs).

Despite the rough trail conditions this was a beautiful hike. The flowers were the highlight, but there were several good mountain views scattered throughout. Hopefully the gullies in FR 1929 can be repaired or at least kept from getting any worse. Forest Road 1927 at Grasshopper Saddle seemed to be a good gravel road, but for that to be a viable option for anyone other than those that don’t mind a challenge the trail needs to be cleaned up. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hiyu Ridge via Grasshopper Meadow

Tags butterflies, Grasshopper Meadow, Grasshopper Meadow Trail, Grasshopper Mountain, Grasshopper Mountain Trail, hiking, Hiyu Ridge, mountain view, Oregon, wildflowers, Willamette National Forest