For the Fourth of July weekend we took an extra day off and headed to the Siskiyou Wilderness in California for our first backpacking trip of the year. This would be our first visit to the 179,847 acre wilderness after having had to cancel planned trips several years in a row due to weather, fire, and smoke. All of the previously planned trips had been on the schedule for late Summer and since that didn’t seem to be working out we decided to try an earlier time of the year. Sullivan features three hikes in the wilderness: Polar Bear Gap, Raspberry Lake, and Devil’s Punchbowl and our plan was to check them all off our to-do list on this trip.
Friday morning we made the long drive back into California to the Black Butte Trailhead near the northern end of the wilderness area. The 2020 Slater Fire burned over the road to this trailhead and into the wilderness.
Black Butte from the Black Butte Trailhead.
There was one other vehicle at the trailhead and it had a small animal trailer with hay attached to it. Heather guessed goat and was proved correct when we ran into a couple and their three goats not a quarter mile up the trail. Those would be the only people we encountered on this first day. As for the Black Butte Trail it was in pretty good shape to start considering the fire as it led uphill toward the shoulder of Black Butte.

Penstemon
Narrowleaf blue eyed Mary
Siskiyou mountain ragwort
Wedgeleaf violet
Sanger Peak
More penstemon
Phlox
After cresting below Black Butte the trail made a slight descent to a junction with the Black Butte Tie Trail 1.8 miles from the trailhead.
Youngs Peak
It turned out to be a beargrass year, at least in the northern part of the wilderness.
Clustered broomrape
Paintbrush
Lizard
El Capitan with the snow behind Bear Cub. Bear Mountain is the high point in the center distance with Rocky Knob to the right front of it. Youngs Peak is the high point to the far right of the frame at the end of the ridge.
Looking up at Black Butte.
Rayless arnica
Big deervetch
The junction with the tie trail.
We would be coming up the tie trail on Monday on the way back to our car but for now we forked left sticking to the Black Butte Trail. Our Forest Service Map indicated that the next 2.5 miles of trail was “infrequently maintained” but the first three quarters of a mile to Polar Bear Gap were fine.
Polar Bear Mountain ahead.
Azalea
A sulphur butterfly
Thimbleberry blossoms
A tortoiseshell on thimbleberry.
Wallflower
The trail steepened considerably as it made the final climb to the gap.
Lupine
Lewis flax
Lookout Mountain
Paintbrush
A carpet of narrowleaf blue eyed Mary at Polar Bear Gap
Nuttall’s sandwort surrounded by blue eyed Mary.
Serpentine phacelia
Polar Bear Gap
Polar Bear Gap sits between Lookout Mountain to the north and Polar Bear Mountain to the south and provided us our best view eastward of the entire trip.
Lookout Mountain
Polar Bear Mountain
Looking east toward Mt. Shasta.
Mt. Shasta
Looking west toward Sanger Peak.
Sickle-leaved Onion
There were lots of lizards in the area.
After a much needed rest at the gap (we aren’t used to carrying full backpacks) we headed down the opposite side of the gap toward Twin Valley.

On this side of the gap we traded the 2020 Slater fire scar for the 2018 Natchez fire.
Heading down into Twin Valley
Paintbrush and penstemon along the trail.
Queen’s cup
Frog
As we neared the first of two meadows in the valley the infrequent maintenance became obvious. The good news was that there were a good number of cairns set up but it was slow going at times trying to locate the next one.


Larkspur
The yellow is a cinquefoil I believe but I don’t know what the other dark flower is.
Meadow in Twin Valley.
The trail passed between the smaller upper and larger lower meadows and continued a slight descent along the lower meadow where we began looking for a junction with the Poker Flat Trail.
Heading down to a stream crossing between the two meadows.
Scarlet gilia
Beargrass
Creek crossing.
Shooting star and marsh marigold.
A hairstreak butterfly
Columbine and cinquefoil
With the trails being faint we were also keeping an eye on our GPS units which both showed that we had gotten below and past the trail junction. Heather decided to strike off cross country first to see if she could find the trail and I soon followed. We lost sight of each other for just a moment and wound up crossing paths without realizing it. She wound up finding the trail junction and turned up the Poker Flat Trail before getting my attention. I made my way over to her and we were back on track.
Cut logs helped identify where the trail was supposed to be.
Wolley-head clover
Oregon violet
Polar Bear Gap from the Poker Flat Trail.
Sullivan describes the climb out of Twin Valley as being “as graceless as a bobsled run in a quarry”. That was an apt description and making the climb with full packs didn’t help. We were very relieved when the trail crested a ridge end after three quarters of a mile.
Looking up toward the ridge end.
Iris at the ridge end.
Red Buttes (post) to the NE.
Red Buttes
Lookout Mountain from the ridge end.
Bee visiting penstemon.
After another break at the ridge end we sallied forth. The trail descended for approximately a mile before climbing fairly steeply again for half a mile to Private Lake. We took a short side trail down to the small lake where we again rested.
The Lieutenants and El Capitain
Clustered broomrape
We were starting to see a lot of bear sign.
An as-of-yet unidentified flower.
This may be sticky blue eyed Mary.
Mariposa lily
More faint trail.

Time to climb.
Anemone
Meadow along the Poker Flat Trail.
Approaching Private Lake.
Siskiyou lewisia
Private Lake below The Lieutenants.


After we’d eaten and rested we resumed our trek and climbed steeply for a half mile to a pass between The Lieutenants and Bear Cub.

Scarlet gilia and penstemon
Heather heading for the pass.
Arnica
Nearing the pass.
Bear Cub
Youngs Peak just to the left of the snag.
The trail descended to a small snow melt tarn then continued down a rocky ridge.

Bear Cub on the right.
Youngs Peak behind the tree.
Approximately 1.4 miles from the pass we arrived at an old road bed that is now the Raspberry Lake Trail.
Finally out of the fire scars.
Snow plant

We should have turned right here for two tenths of a mile then taken a left onto another old road bed but after the long drive and challenging hike we weren’t thinking all that clearly and mistook this junction for the next and turned left. We realized our mistake after a little more than 100 yards and backtracked past the junction to the correct left hand turn onto the road bed that doubles as the Clear Creek National Recreation Trail near a large meadow in Youngs Valley.
Sign for Raspberry Lake at the Raspberry Lake Trail/Clear Creek National Recreation Trail junction where we correctly turned left.
At the southern end of the meadow the Clear Creek Trail leaves the road bed and continues south following Clear Creek ending almost 20 miles later at No Mans Trailhead. We stayed on the road bed as it continued around the meadow. After crossing a branch of Clear Creek we started looking for a campsite.
Footbridge over the creek.
Bear Cub from Youngs Valley.
Camp
There were plenty of open sites as we appeared to be the only people around. There were other creatures about though.
Dragon fly
El Capitan
Bucks in the meadow.

Caterpillar
We did a little exploring to check out the wildflowers in and around the meadow.
Spotted coralroot
Wedgeleaf violets
Maybe a cinquefoil
Bistort
Shooting star
Monkeyflower
There were quite a few of these tiny flowers. I haven’t been able to identify this one yet.
After getting water, eating dinner, and setting up the tent we were plenty tired so we turned in early. The hike had been a little over 9 miles with approximately 3000′ of elevation gain spread out over several steep climbs.

It had been a great start from a scenery standpoint but we were not used to carrying the larger packs so before bed we decided that we were going to tweak our plans just a bit and instead of packing up camp in the morning and moving 5+ miles to the south just to pack up again and come back to Youngs Valley for the last night this would be our base for the entire trip. We were looking forward to seeing what else this wilderness had in store over the next three days. Happy Trails!
Flickr: Polar Bear Gap

A few larches along Road 2730
Fret Creek Trail across from the pullout.
Entering the Badger Creek Wilderness.




Starting to climb again.
Sign for Oval Lake.

June 28, 2014
A bit of snow left from the recent snowfall.
The Divide Trail.
Some snow near a switchback along the trail.
Mt. Adams starting to peak over a ridge to the north.
Mt. Adams with some larch trees in the foreground.
Lookout Mountain from the Divide Trail (The bare peak in between the two bare snags. Just to the right of the left snag.)
Side trail to Palisade Point.
Broken Top, The Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack (just the very top), Mt. Jefferson, and Olallie Butte (
Mt. Jefferson with the tip of Three Fingered Jack to the left and Olallie Butte to the right.
Mt. Hood peaking up over the rocks.
Panoramic view with Badger Creeks valley below.
Rocks below Palisade Point.
We ran into this jumble of downed trees shortly after leaving Palisade Point but fortunately it was the worst of the obstacles.
Flag Point Lookout from the trail.
A small meadow that was full of flowers a couple of months ago.
A stand of larches.
A better view of Mt. Hood.
Zoomed in.
Looking back through larches at a Badger Creek Wilderness sign near Road 200.
Looking back at the Divide Trail.
Road 200
Chipmunk
Nearing the lookout.

Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams to the north.
Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams


Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and Olallie Butte
View east to the hills above the Columbia River.
Passing the Fret Creek Trail.
We did need to gain almost 800′ of elevation to reach Lookout Mountain which at times was a fairly steep climb.
Another viewpoint along the way where Badger Lake was visible.
Badger Lake

The final pitch to the summit, there is at least one hiker visible up top.

Looking back to Flag Point.
Looking NE toward The Dalles and the Columbia River.
Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. Adams
View south past Badger Lake to Mt. Jefferson.
Flag Point from the Helispot.
And of course Mt. Hood again.

Fret Creek from the road near the trailhead.

Continuing along the Waterman Ditch.
If this trail sign was marking a junction it wasn’t clear where the other trail was.
Campsite at the saddle.
The Rim Trail sign on a tree trunk.










Rock Creek Lake
Gaining the ridge.

View from the rim.
Spanish Peak
A local
Astter
Some sort of delphinium I think.
Downed trees across the trail ahead.
Interestingly camouflaged beetle on the upper onion.
Lupine
A checkermallow
Some more downed trees that we had to go around.




We left the trail here, note the small cairn on the left.
Heading uphill.
Scarlet gilia
Paintbrush

The site of the former lookout.
Looking out toward the John Day River valley.
SE to Windy Point.
West to Rock Creek Lake and on the horizon the flat topped Lookout Mountain (
NE to the John Day River Valley.
Lookout and Round Mountain and the rim that we had hiked up below Spanish Peak.
The Pisgah Lookout on the far side of the Bridge Creek Wilderness (
A hazy Mount Hood to the NW.







Baldy Creek was on our left.
Red-tailed hawk
Western tanager
Arriving at the trailhead.
Signage at the trailhead.
Baldy Creek below FR 3820.
A sulphur butterfly of some sort.
A watermellon or June bug as we called them growing up.
FR 3820 meeting Arvid Nelson Road.
Spanish Peak from Arvid Nelson Road.




American coot and a duck family.
Spotted sandpiper
Pied billed grebe


Mountain bluebird
The spur of the Walton Lake Trail that leads to the Round Mountain Trail.





A saxifrage.


Larkspur






Chocolate lily
The rocky plateau with Round Mountain to the right.
Death camas
A wild onion
Yarrow
Paintbrush
Valerian along the trail.
California tortoiseshell on valerian.
Mt. Jefferson from the trail.
Maybe a miterwort?
Milbert’s tortoiseshell
Scissors Spring
A fleabane
Geranium

Woodpecker
Another doe
A comma butterfly of some sort.
Possibly some sort of phlox?
Another wild onion
Mountain bluebells
Threeleaf lewisia
Butterfly on Jessica stickseed
A larkspur, Jessica stickseed, and hyssop
Robin
Mountain view from a meadow.
Mt. Jefferson
Mt. Hood
Viewpoint at one of the switchbacks. Cascade Mountains from Diamond Peak to Mt. Jefferson.
Diamond Peak
Mt. Bachelor
Ball Butte and Broken Top
Three Sisters
Mt. Washington
Three Fingered Jack
Mt. Jefferson
The trail sign along Round Mountain Road up the hill.
Fritillary butterfly
Silky phacelia
Prairie smoke
Balsamroot
Butterfly on an onion
Ladybug on lupine
Round Mountain summit
And occasionally land.
Big Summit Prairie
Lookout Mountain (
Mt. Hood
Mt. Adams
Not too horrible of a photo of the orangetip on one of its many passes.

A coot, a spotted sandpiper and ducks.
Osprey with a recently caught fish (we got to see the dive)
Ducklings
Gumjuwac Trail at Highway 35.

Mt. Hood in the morning Sun.



Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams
Mt. Adams
Finally an unobstructed view of Mt. Hood.
Gumjuwac Saddle






The hawk.
A less than thrilled raven.
Light green to yellow larches on the hillside behind the raven.

Mt. St. Helens
View south.
From L to R: Broken Top, The Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, and Mt. Jefferson.

Mt. Jefferson



Approaching the summit.
Lookout on Lookout Mountain.
Flag Point Lookout in the distance.
Flag Point Lookout



Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier
Mt. St. Helens
Mt. Rainier
Mt. Adams
Mt. Hood
Mt. Jefferson followed by Mt. Washington, The Three Sisters, and Broken Top
The Three Sisters










Lookout Mountain from the Gunsight Butte Trail.
Clark’s nutcracker





































































































