Categories
Hiking SW Washington Coast Trip report Washington

Long Beach, Cape Disappointment State Park, and Fort Columbia

For the third day of our 4 day mini-vacation we headed north into Washington for a series of hikes along the coast from Long Beach to the Columbia River. We decided to start with the northernmost hike and work our way south. Our first stop was at the north end of the 7.2 mile Discovery Trail located on North 26th St. in Long Beach.

IMG_8372

IMG_8373

Normally when we have a 7.2 mile trail we would just hike the entire thing out and back and call it a day, but on this rare occasion we were going to follow Sullivan’s easy 3 hike description. From this trailhead we were simply following the trail for .3 miles to a replica of Clark’s Tree. The replica represents a tree where William Clark carved his name on a tree in November of 1805 to claim the territory for the U.S.

IMG_8376

IMG_8378

IMG_8381

We took a short sandy path from the tree to the foredune to take a look at the ocean before heading back.

IMG_8385

IMG_8386

IMG_8387

For our next hike we drove south to Sid Snyder St. where a .4 mile stretch of boardwalk parallels the paved Discovery Trail.

IMG_8394

IMG_8398

Interpretive signs lined the boardwalk including one showing all of the shipwrecks that have occurred in the area.

IMG_8401

IMG_8407

We returned via the paved Discovery Trail and once again hopped into the car and headed south. We left Long Beach and continued south on Highway 101 for 3 miles to the stoplight in Ilwaco where we turned right on Highway 100 and entered Cape Disappointment State Park.

We were originally headed for a signed parking lot for Beards Hollow 1.9 miles away. We needed a $10 Discovery Pass to park there but, when we turned right into the parking area we discovered that there was no self-pay station. We had passed a Beards Hollow Viewpoint about a mile before turning into the parking lot which didn’t require a pass so we drove back uphill to the viewpoint parking lot and started our hike from there.

IMG_8416

A trail led downhill from the viewpoint to the lower parking lot.

IMG_8418

IMG_8421

At the lower parking lot we once again picked up the Discovery Trail.

IMG_8427

We followed the paved trail through a wetlands which is a result of the building of the Columbia River jetties.

IMG_8426

IMG_8424

IMG_8428

IMG_8435

When the Discovery Trail made a sharp right near the ocean we took one of several sandy paths to the beach where we turned south and headed for North Head.

IMG_8440

IMG_8442

The beach was quite but judging from the number of tire tracks and amount of garbage lying around it gets a lot busier in the evenings. Near the end of the beach we came upon some nice tide pools which we explored briefly before heading back.

IMG_8447

IMG_8449

IMG_8456

IMG_8459

IMG_8461

IMG_8482

After hiking back up to the viewpoint we continued south on Highway 100 and turned right onto North Head Lighthouse Road. A Discovery Pass is required to park here as well but we spotted a self-pay station near some signboards so we parked and I went to pay.

IMG_8495

I don’t mind having to pay for the passes, but I do get annoyed by how hard it is to buy them sometimes. We had to drive a couple of miles further along Hwy 100 to the park entrance booth where we were finally able to purchase the required pass.

After returning to the North Head parking lot we headed for the North Head Lighthouse.

IMG_8501

A short .3 mile loop passes several buildings that used to house the lighthouse keepers, but are now vacation rentals, before continuing out the headland to the lighthouse which is currently undergoing rennovations.

IMG_8509

IMG_8510

IMG_8517

IMG_8519

After completing the loop we turned right at a sign for the 1.5 mile North Head Trail.

IMG_8525

Our plan was to follow this trail out to McKenzie Head then take a short road walk past Oneil Lake and explore a few more trails in the park from the area near the entrance booth. The North Head Trail passed through a pretty coastal forest going up and down, over and around ridges. We spotted lots of wildlife along this section of trail, mostly in the form of frogs and snakes.

IMG_8526

IMG_8527

IMG_8533

IMG_8538

IMG_8540

IMG_8546

IMG_8550

IMG_8558

We crossed Fort Canby Road at a small parking lot for McKenzie Head.

IMG_8562

After stopping to read the interpretive signs we started up the .3 mile path to Battery 247.

IMG_8575

IMG_8576

We explored the old bunker and took in the view from North Head before heading back down.

IMG_8585

IMG_8590

IMG_8596

When we arrived back at the McKenzie Head parking lot we turned right and walked along Fort Canby Road until we were able to cut over to a gravel campground road along Oneil Lake.

IMG_8602

We spotted an egret and an osprey at the lake.

IMG_8603

IMG_8604

IMG_8608

At the far end of the lake we crossed Jetty Road just west of the park entrance booth and located the Cape Disappointment Trail.

IMG_8613

We followed the trail uphill past a viewpoint of the jetty.

IMG_8614

IMG_8617

The trail continued to climb from the viewpoint passing a set of stairs that led to a hilltop with a view of the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse.

IMG_8684

IMG_8621

The little hilltop was a dead end so we backtracked down the stairs and continued following the trail to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center.

IMG_8625

The aroma near the center was less than appealing due to the presence of sea birds on the rocks below.

IMG_8628

IMG_8631

IMG_8632

At the far end of the center we managed to find a spot in the shade where we couldn’t smell the birds and took a short break.

IMG_8633

It was another .6 miles to the lighthouse from the interpretive center so we sallied forth. The trail dipped down between a Coast Guard station and Dead Mans Cove.

IMG_8645

IMG_8642

A narrow paved road led from the Coast Guard station uphill to the lighthouse and an impressive view.

IMG_8646

IMG_8659

IMG_8665

IMG_8661

IMG_8667

After another short break we returned to the interpretive center and walked around the east side and explored Battery Harvey Allen.

IMG_8641

IMG_8669

IMG_8673

IMG_8676

After exploring the battery we returned to the park entrance booth. We headed out Jetty Road past the booth and park entrance sign toward the boat launch across Coast Guard Road. On the far side of that road we located a trail sign for the Coastal Forest Trail.

IMG_8693

IMG_8695

There was a moment of hesitation when we read the caution sign warning of ground hornets on the trail. Growing up I had a huge fear of bees and any related species but as we’ve been hiking I’ve come to an understanding with most of the yellow and black insects. Hornets, wasps, and yellow jackets are not on that list. We decided to proceed but with extreme caution.

IMG_8696

Our plan was to do the 1.5 mile loop. At the far end of the loop near a bench a spur trail led out to a viewpoint.

IMG_8703

IMG_8711

IMG_8704

A heron was hunting in the grasses nearby.

IMG_8707

We completed the loop without running into any hornets and I was relieved when we got back to Coast Guard Road. After passing Oneil Lake on Fort Canby Road again we took the North Head Trail back to our car at the lighthouse parking lot. There were more snakes on the trail on the return trip than we’d seen earlier in the day which was fine with me since they weren’t hornets.

IMG_8732

We had one final stop left. Following signs for Ilwaco we left the park and returned to Highway 101 where we headed back toward Oregon. Eight miles from Ilwaco we turned right at a sign for Fort Columbia State Park.
IMG_8743

We walked through the old buildings and turned uphill on Military Road. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse was visible in the distance.
IMG_8748

IMG_8752

IMG_8754

We found a map on a signpost which showed fewer trails than what our guidebook and Google showed.
IMG_8757

We decided to trust the park map and headed up the grassy Military Road Trail.
IMG_8762

IMG_8763

The trail passed some overgrown structures.
IMG_8765

IMG_8764

When we arrived at 780′ summit we decided to head back down on the Scarborough Trail, forgoing the .5 mile Summit Trail.
IMG_8772

The Scarborough Trail began as a decent dirt trail but soon became overgrown with a few downed trees to climb over.
IMG_8773

IMG_8776

IMG_8777

After .4 miles we came to another grassy roadbed.
IMG_8779

This was the route shown on the park map. The trail did seem to continue downhill which corresponded to the map in the guidebook but without knowing the condition of that trail we played it safe and followed the roadbed back to the Military Road Trail. On the way down we took a short detour following a use path toward the sound of falling water. The path led to a small waterfall behind a fence with a “Do Not Enter” sign. We took a photo from the fence and then returned to our car.
IMG_8783

When it was all said and done we’d hiked a total of 17.3 miles from 5 different trailheads. It had been a really enjoyable group of hikes full of wildlife and history. Happy Trails!

Flickr: SW Washington Coast

Categories
Hiking Northern Coast Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Astoria and Fort Stevens State Park

We continued our year of shuffling hikes on our latest mini-vacation.  The string of wildfires starting in  Northern California in the Klamath Mountains and continuing along the Cascade Range north to the Canadian Border had us looking for a last minute location for 4 days of hiking. We turned to the coast hoping to escape any possibly smokey conditions and wound up deciding on checking out the northern most part of the Oregon Coast as well as our first foray along the Washington Coast line.

We booked a room in Gearhart, OR and I began putting an itinerary together. We are still plodding along in our attempt to hike all of the featured hikes in Sullivan’s 100 Hikes guidebooks and there were several in the area we’d yet to tackle. I managed to fit eight of his featured hikes into the four days and even threw in an additional stop at Fort Columbia on our third day.

We set our sights on three of the hikes for our first day starting with a relatively short loop around Clatsop Spit. The spit is located inside Fort Stevens State Park at the mouth of the Columbia River and is the northern terminus for the Oregon Coast Trail.

As we were driving to the spit along Jetty Road we spotted some elk and had to stop for a couple of photos.
IMG_8042

IMG_8043

IMG_8041

Once we had parked at the large parking area at the spit we checked out the view from the South Jetty observation platform.
IMG_8046

IMG_8048

IMG_8049

We then headed west beside the jetty toward the Pacific.
IMG_8051

IMG_8054

We then turned north along the beach heading towards the Columbia River where we could see plenty of traffic on the water.
IMG_8061

IMG_8063

IMG_8056

We turned inland at the river we had a view of the distant Megler Bridge.
IMG_8067

We passed a host of people fishing along the shore but didn’t see anyone having any luck.
IMG_8078

We looped around a peninsula near Jetty Lagoon and located the wildlife viewing bunker near the park’s Parking Lot D.
IMG_8082

IMG_8083

IMG_8084view from the bunker.

We crossed a footbridge to the parking lot and then had a 1.1 mile road walk back to the spit parking lot.
IMG_8086

We drove back along Jetty Road and parked in a signed lot for Battery Russell.
IMG_8094

We took a set of stairs up to the concrete bunker.
IMG_8095

IMG_8100

IMG_8102

For forty years (1904-44) the battery guarded the Columbia River from enemy attacks. We spent quite a while exploring the old bunker. The history made it neat but too many video games and horror movies kept us imagining what might be hiding in the dark corners of the rooms.
IMG_8104

IMG_8108

IMG_8111

IMG_8114

IMG_8116

IMG_8119

IMG_8117

We followed a path at the far end of the bunker toward Coffenbury Lake.
IMG_8122

The path passed another set of old buildings.
IMG_8123

IMG_8124

IMG_8125

IMG_8126

We continued on this path a total of 1.25 miles to a signed junction where we followed a pointer to the lake.
IMG_8127

IMG_8129

IMG_8132

We headed around the lake counter-clockwise on a nice trail.
IMG_8134

IMG_8135

IMG_8137

IMG_8139

IMG_8140

IMG_8144

After completing the 2 mile loop around the lake we followed “Shipwreck” pointers for 3/4 of a mile to the beach and the remains of the Peter Iredale which ran aground in 1906.
IMG_8148

IMG_8149

IMG_8152

IMG_8156

We backtracked from the beach a short distance and turned left on a paved path at a pointer for Battery Russell (among other possible destinations).
IMG_8158

We followed this path for a little over half a mile before turning right at another pointer for Battery Russell.
IMG_8159

IMG_8160

We followed this 1.1 mile paved path back to the parking lot.
IMG_8162

The total distance of the Clatsop Spit hike had been 5 miles and this hike came in just under 7.5 miles. Twelve and a half miles is pretty good for a day, but due to our typical early start we were done with these two hikes before 1pm. Our check-in time wasn’t until four so we still had a few hours to kill.

We had been prepared for that and headed north from Fort Stevens to Astoria where we parked at the Columbia River Maritime Museum
IMG_8163

IMG_8164

From the museum parking lot we headed west following the Riverfront Trolley line.
IMG_8169

Seabirds lined the waterfront and we also heard some sea lions but never saw any.
IMG_8166

IMG_8167

IMG_8173

We more or less stuck to Sullivan’s described route (Hike #4 in the 4th edition of “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range) following the the trolley line to 6th St. then turning inland for three blocks before taking a left on Commercial St. After a block on Commercial St. we turned right on 7th for two blocks passing the Oregon Film Museum and the Flavel House.
IMG_8192

IMG_8190

IMG_8187

IMG_8182

We walked around the Flavel House and headed downhill on 8th St. turning right when we arrived back at Commercial St. We turned right several blocks later on 12th Street and right again a block later on Duane St. passing a Chinese Garden.
IMG_8194

IMG_8195

IMG_8197

IMG_8199

We continued zig-zagging through town passing numerous historic homes, churches, and other buildings. One home that stood out was an old run down home that had the quintessential haunted house look.
IMG_8201

We also passed Fort Astoria on the corner of 15th and Exchange.
IMG_8205

By the time we were done we wandered around town for a total of 3 miles.
Astoria

One of the landmarks not on the route was the Astoria Column. It was visible from the waterfront rising above the city. It was one of the times the 30x zoom on the camera came in handy.
IMG_8178

We still arrived a little early at our hotel but luckily our room was ready. We had a nice view south to Tillamook Head.
IMG_8208

It had actually rained lightly on us in Astoria which was a wonderful change of pace. The sun went down behind the clouds that evening ending the first day of what was shaping up to be an interesting vacation.
IMG_8209

Happy Trails!

Flickr: Astoria & Fort Stevens

Categories
Hiking Mt. Adams Trip report Washington Washington Cascades

Labor Day Weekend – Mt. Adams Wilderness Days 2 & 3

We woke up after 6am on Sunday morning which counts as sleeping in for us. The forecast had called for smokey conditions all weekend which hadn’t materialized at all on Saturday but the sky was a little hazy now.
It certainly wasn’t bad and there was no fire smell in the air which was nice.

IMG_7749

Our mission was to find a water source as we had run low the day before and didn’t want to try and filter out of the nearby Cascade Creek which was too silty. We grabbed our packs and headed across Horseshoe Meadow to the Pacific Crest Trail. Our plan was to follow it north to the Killen Creek Trail and possibly into Killen Creek Meadows.

IMG_7753

The PCT climbed along a ridge at the edge of the meadow and we were able to spot our tent in the trees below.

IMG_7755

The trail climbed around the ridge end through the scars of the Cascade Creek Fire. The ground was covered with flowers that were well past bloom but they still provided a colorful display.

IMG_7757

IMG_7758

IMG_7759

Looking out to the SW we could see smoke in the valleys below a higher layer of clouds. Mt. St. Helens somehow seemed to be in a clear zone though.

IMG_7761

IMG_7762

As we passed a large rocky area we heard the “meep” of a pika followed by several more. We stopped to see if we could spot one of our favorite alpine animals and sure enough one scurried out onto a nearby rock.

IMG_7768

IMG_7774

After watching the little guy for a while we remembered our quest for water and continued on. The trail remained in the Cascade Creek Fire zone for nearly the entire 3.5 miles to Sheep Lake which was the first potential source of water we came too. The fire zone offered some nice views and interesting rock formations reminding us that as sad as it is too see the forest burn it is part of the natural cycle and can offer some different scenic qualities.

IMG_7775

IMG_7778

IMG_7781Mt. St. Helens

IMG_7783

IMG_7784The bottom of Mt. Rainier

IMG_7789

IMG_7798Goat Rocks

IMG_7806Small cave along the PCT

IMG_7807

Sheep Lake was nice and was lined with berries which we happily ate as part of our breakfast but it was a little shallow along the edges for our pump filter.

IMG_7810

Riley Creek was near enough that we could hear it flowing so we decided to check it out to see if the water was clear enough to filter. Not only was the water clear but the creek was lovely and we found a large flat area atop some rocks where we could cook our breakfast.

IMG_7812

IMG_7814

Heather filtered water while I prepared our Mountain House Spicy Southwest Breakfast Hash which is quickly becoming one of our favorite backpacking meals.

IMG_7815

After breakfast we continued north on the PCT into a green forest. More blueberries and huckleberries lined the trail and we joined the area wildlife in snacking on the juicy treats.

IMG_7818

IMG_7830

Large clumps of gentians dotted the open ground in this area as well.

IMG_7825

IMG_7829

IMG_7831

Just under a quarter mile from Riley Creek we passed the Riley Camp Trail.

IMG_7832

The stretch of green forest lasted for about a mile before the PCT came to a lava flow near Mutton Creek.

IMG_7838

Mutton Creek was cloudy with silt but not the chocolate color of Cascade Creek. It looked more like someone had poured some milk into the creek. The trail followed the cascading creek for a bit before crossing it.

IMG_7844

IMG_7848

IMG_7850

The PCT then passed across another section of lava where we stopped to admire the craggy peaks lining the horizon.

IMG_7851

IMG_7856

IMG_7860

IMG_7859

There was also a good view of Mt. Adams although the combination of the haze and angle of the Sun affected it.

IMG_7865

We passed through another meadow before reaching the Lewis River.

IMG_7872

IMG_7876

IMG_7944

It was hard to believe this was the same river that we’d hiked along when we visited Lower Lewis River Falls in May of 2016.

Lower Lewis River Falls

About a quarter mile from the Lewis River we passed the Divide Camp Trail.

IMG_7878

Just beyond the trail junction we passed over a section of the mountain where a washout or avalanche had wiped out a swath of forest at some point where small trees were now regrowing.

IMG_7939

Just beyond that was an even larger barren rocky area where we came to Adams Creek.

IMG_7882

IMG_7890

This proved to be the trickiest crossing of the entire weekend. We chose a spot where it looked like we could rock hop to a small island where a log might get us to the other side relatively dry.

IMG_7891

It worked reasonably well and we sallied forth towards the Killen Creek Trail. IMG_7898

About a mile from Adams Creek we passed a shrinking pond.

IMG_7912

Another quarter mile brought us to the High Camp Trail which headed toward the mountain.

IMG_7913

Shortly beyond that junction we arrived at the Killen Creek Trail.

IMG_7915

Although we had toyed with the idea of continuing all the way to Killen Creek it was another .4 miles away and downhill. We had done 22.6 miles the day before and this day was already going to be over 17 miles so we decided to call it good. We figure we can go back someday and start on the Killen Creek Trail and go north on the PCT from the junction.

On the way back the haze began to clear and the passed far enough overhead to greatly improve the views of Mt. Adams.

IMG_7954

The massive Adams Glacier really caught our attention.

IMG_7955

IMG_7956

While we were admiring the mountain, Heather spotted a face in the rocks.

IMG_7957

IMG_7959

The view of Mt. Adams kept getting clearer and even the view of Mt. Rainier improved somewhat.

IMG_7976

IMG_7985

One view that didn’t improve was to the SW where yet another smoke plume had arisen. This one we would learn the next day was the East Crater Fire in the Indian Heaven Wilderness.

IMG_7981

We stopped again at Riley Creek where we joined a number of PCT thru-hikers cooling off and collecting water. We refilled our packs as well as our 96oz canteen (which was not the most fun thing to haul the 4 miles back to camp).

It was just after 4:30 when we arrived back at Horseshoe Meadow. Mt. Adams appeared to be free of any smoke but just over it’s shoulder to the east the sky looked really smokey.

IMG_7991

We ate dinner then sat by our tent and watched as a few wispy clouds passed overhead.

IMG_8002

IMG_8005

With all the fires around we couldn’t have asked for a better couple of days on the mountain. Those wonderful conditions didn’t make it into Labor Day though.

We woke up at 5:30am and despite it still being dark, we knew that some smoke had moved in based on the smell. When I got out of the tent and turned on my headlamp it illuminated the ash that was falling like a light snow. As the morning light made seeing a little easier we found that we couldn’t even see Mt. Adams.

IMG_8007

As the Sun rose higher we could at least make out the mountains outline through the smoke.

IMG_8015

We ate breakfast and packed up then headed south on the PCT.

IMG_8021

Overall it was a cool morning but occasional blasts of warmer air hit us. We had started hiking a little before 7am so that helped. We passed a number of thru-hikers on their way north, one of whom told us that the Indian Heaven Wilderness was closed due to a new fire (East Crater).

A red sun came up over Mt. Adams as we made our way back.

IMG_8030

IMG_8033

The smoke finally lessened a bit when we had gotten back down into unburnt forest.

IMG_8037

Near the trailhead we spoke to another thru-hiker who had been evacuated from Cascade Locks due to the Eagle Creek Fire. It was from her that we learned a teenager illegally using fireworks had started the inferno and that at least 140 hikers had been stranded overnight, trapped between the Eagle Creek and Indian Creek Fires.

Given the information we decided to drive back to Salem around Mt. Hood via Highways 35 and 26 thinking that I84 might be closed by the time we were trying to get through. It’s been a tough year out west regarding wildfires. Even though they are a natural part of the forest cycle (unless some moron does something stupid) it’s hard when so many of our favorite places seem to be burning at the same time. We know they will not look like they once did anytime in our lifetimes, but they will recover and in the meantime we will watch as God’s creation heals. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mt. Adams Wilderness Days 2 & 3

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Yaquina Bay and Yaquina Head

It’s become tradition to take a shortish hike on the Oregon Coast the morning of our annual family reunion in Gleneden Beach, OR. This year we decided to visit a pair of lighthouses near Newport.

A 5am start got us to our first stop at Yaquina Bay State Recreation Site a little before 7.

Home to the 1871 Yaquina Bay Lighthouse the 32 acre park also offers access to an approximately 4 mile stretch of beach between the Yaquina River and Yaquina Head.

We parked below the lighthouse, which operated only three years before being replaced by the Yaquina Head Lighthouse.
Yaquina Bay Lighthouse

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse

From a viewpoint in the parking lot we could see the Yaquina Bay Bridge and watch boats heading out to sea.
Yaquina Bay Bridge

Yaquina Bay Jetty

A paved path led down the bluff to a sandy path in the deflation zone behind a small foredune.
Trail from Yaquina Bay Lightouse to the ocean

Heading to the Pacific Ocean

We passed over the foredune and turned left toward the Yaquina River.
Yaquina Bay Jetty

The sound of sealions in the bay greeted us as we approached the jetty where we spotted some squatters on a buoy.
Yaquina Bay Lighthouse

Yaquina Bay Bridge

Seals on a bouy

We turned around and headed north along the beach. It was an interesting beach with many small dune like formations.
Yaquina Bay Recreation Site

It was a typical summer morning on the coast with patches of marine layer clouds along the way.
Seagulls at Yaquina Bay Recreation Site

Yaquina Head in the fog

Yaquina Head

Wildlife along the way consisted of seagulls and shore birds as well as a couple of small tide pools where we spotted anemones and some sand crabs.
Seagull

Shore birds

Anemones

Anemones

Sand crab

Of particular interest were a couple of jellyfish with some sort of colorful lines.
Jellyfish

Another peculiar sight along the way were some sand formations that reminded us of clay sculptures.
Interesting sand formations

Interesting sand formations

Interesting sand formation

Interesting sand formation

The beach began to narrow as we neared Yaquina Head and we soon came to Little Creek which was running parallel to the ocean.
Yaquina Head

Little Creek at Agate Beach

Yaquina Head forced the creek to finally turn toward the ocean and we followed it along the cliffs as it emptied into the Pacific.
Little Creek at Agate Beach

Little Creek at Agate Beach

Little Creek emptying into the Pacific

Pacific Ocean

We passed various birds along the creek including a pigeon guillemot which was a bird we were unfamiliar with.
Seagulls

Crow

Bird near Little Creek

Pigeon guillemot
Pigeon guillemot

We headed back south along the beach staying closer to the ocean which brought us to a crossing of some tide water. In our infinite wisdom we waded through the water soaking our shoes and socks before realizing that this was not one of our typical stream crossings. The rocks in mountain creeks and rivers make crossing barefoot a bad idea but on the beach we could have easily taken them off before wading through.
Looking south from Agate Beach

We were back at our car by 9:45 so we had plenty of time to make a second stop at the Yaquina Head Lighthouse (even after stopping at the Newport Safeway to pick up some cilantro). Located on Yaquina Head 4.5 miles north of Newport the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area has a lot to offer. Oregon’s tallest lighthouse, tide pools, several trails, and an interpretive center (which wasn’t there the last time we visited) make the $7/car pass seem reasonable, especially given the pass is valid for three days.

We didn’t have a lot of time so we drove past the interpretive center and parked at the end of the road near the lighthouse.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse

We walked to the lighthouse first stopping at viewpoints along the way. Several grey whales could be seen surfacing and blowing water into the air.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Looking north to Cape Foulweather

Cormorants

Whale spout

Grey back whale seen from Yaquina Head

Grey back whale seen from Yaquina Head

After watching the whales for a bit we continued around the lighthouse and then headed for nearby Cobble Beach.
Tide pools at Yaquina Head

The beach is home to some very good tide pools and the tide was out far enough for some of them to be revealed.
Tide pools at Yaquina Head

We took the wooden staircase down toward the beach and after some last minute rules and instructions from rangers at the bottom of the stairs we began exploring the pools. Touching anything but the starfish (the rangers informed us that they were dealing with some sort of illness) was allowed but no picking up.
Tide pool at Cobble Beach - Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

Sea urchins, snails and mussles

Anemone

Tide pool at Cobble Beach - Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

Tide pool at Cobble Beach - Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

Sea urchins

Sea urchins

Star fish

Large sea rocks just beyond the tide pools are part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, one of only tow wilderness areas in Oregon closed to humans.
Signboard for the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge

Not all the wildlife stuck to the islands though as a section of Cobble Beach was closed off due to a resting seal.
Seal on Cobble Beach

After making our way around the pools we headed back up the stairs. It was still a bit early to head for the reunion so we decided to check out the short trail up Salal Hill which began at the lot where we had parked.
Salal Hill Trailhead

The .4 mile path switchbacked up the small hill at a nice gradual grade.
Salal Hill

Some lingering flowers showed that there was more to the hill than just salal bushes.
Pearly everlasting

Aster

Salal Hill Trail

Wildflowers along the Salal Hill Trail

The trail passed above the interpretive center before arriving at the small, flat summit.
The interpretive center below the Salal Hill Trail

Salal Hill Trail

From the summit we had a nice view north to Cape Foulweather.
Looking north from the Salal Hill Trail

To the west was the Yaquina Head Lighthouse and the Pacific Ocean.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse from the Salal Hill Trail

We headed down after a short stay since it was now time to make our way to the reunion. We could have spent a lot more time exploring the area so we’ll have to go back again sometime. As we were coming down the hill we spotted another whale which we watched for a moment. It seemed to be giving us a goodbye wave, what a polite way to end our hike. Happy Trails!
Grey back whale

Flickr: Yaquina Bay and Yaquina Head

Categories
Hiking Oregon Salem/Albany Trip report Willamette Valley

Salem Parks – Wallace Marine to Minto-Brown Island

With an influx of visitors expected in Oregon for the eclipse we decided to do something a little different for our most recent hike.  Heeding warnings of possible traffic issues (which never seemed to have materialized) we stayed close to home opting for a urban hike through three city parks in Salem.

We had gotten the idea for this urban hike when the opening of the Peter Courtney Minto Island Bicycle and Pedestrian Brdige on June 5th, 2017 made it possible to walk or bike through Wallace Marine, Riverfront, and Minto-Brown Island Parks without having to use any streets. Given the unknowns associated with the eclipse this seemed like the perfect time to try it out.

We began our hike at West Salem’s Wallace Marine Park.
IMG_7099

After entering the 114 acre park we turned left (north) and headed for the softball complex which consists of 5 fields that host several tournaments each year.
IMG_7100

IMG_7101

We looped around the fields which were empty this early it morning. No games meant no crowds but that didn’t mean there was a lack of noise. Osprey use the light poles for nests and they were making their presence known from their high perches.
IMG_7102

IMG_7111

After looping around the fields we headed south past the parks entrance road and several soccer fields.
IMG_7116

IMG_7117

Shortly before reaching the Union Street Railroad Pedestrian Bridge we turned left down a paved path to the Willamette River.
IMG_7118

IMG_7119

IMG_7124

IMG_7125

After visiting the river we headed for the pedestrian bridge.
IMG_7130

Originally constructed in 1912-13 for the Pacific Union Railroad the half mile bridge was purchased for $1 by the city in 2004. In April, 2009 the bridge was reopened to pedestrians and bicyclists connecting Wallace Marine Park to Salem’s Riverfront Park.
IMG_7136

IMG_7137

After crossing the river we turned right and headed into Riverfront Park. The section of sidewalk just after the bridge was one of the least scenic portions of the route as it followed the parks entrance road past an electrical station and under the Center and Marion Street Bridges.
IMG_7143

IMG_7144

Between the Marion Street and Center Street Bridges is the Gilbert House Children’s Museum.

This science and art museum is a great place for kids and fun for their parents.
IMG_7145

IMG_7147

We chose to go around the museum on the left which took us between the museum and some still operational railroad tracks. If you’re looking for scenery skip this section and stay to the west of the museum which keeps the river in view.

After passing a parking lot we came to the open green grass of Riverfront Park.
IMG_7152

A music event was being set up in the center of the 23 acre park.
IMG_7153

The park is also home to the Willamette Queen Sternwheeler
IMG_7151

IMG_7155

IMG_7156

Riverfront Park was the location of the field sessions when Heather and I took the Route-Finding Class offered by the Chemeketans.

We passed the small open air amphitheater, which is slated for an upgrade in 2020, and continued south toward the Peter Courtney Minto Island Bicycle and Pedestrian Bridge.
IMG_7159

IMG_7162

IMG_7164

Another park feature, the Eco-Earth Globe, sits near the bridge and is an interesting bit of art.
IMG_7165

We headed across the bridge and into Minto-Brown Island Park.
IMG_7166

IMG_7168

IMG_7169

Interpretive signs line the new section of trail linking the bridge to the older trail system in the park after approximately 3/4 of a mile.
IMG_7176

IMG_7175

IMG_7186

At the junction with the older trail is a large signboard and map.
IMG_7193

By far the largest of the three parks, at 1,200 acres, numerous trails and loop options were available to us. We had done a short loop hike here in April of 2016 but this time planned on covering a bit more ground.

We turned right at the map and followed paved paths to the bank of the Willamette River.
IMG_7195

IMG_7198

IMG_7201

IMG_7203

IMG_7204

Signage along the trails is excellent and makes it fairly easy to get around even if you aren’t familiar with the park. We were headed for the Shelter Parking Lot, where we had started our 2016 visit.
IMG_7212

IMG_7211

We had been passed by several familiar faces running with groups from Gallagher Fitness Resources but when we arrived at their watering hold near the gazebo at the Shelter Parking lot there were none to be seen in the area.
IMG_7215

IMG_7214

We continued on from the gazebo following our route from our previous visit by forking right across at footbridge after a tenth of a mile.
IMG_7218

IMG_7217

After another .4 miles we detoured to the left to visit a collapsing fishing dock.
IMG_7220

We continued on passing an open field before turning off the paved path on a wide dirt path to the left which led us to Faragate Ave.
IMG_7221

IMG_7223

IMG_7226

At Faragate Ave we turned left on a paved path which paralleled the road for a short distance before bending back into the park.
IMG_7227

IMG_7229

After crossing another footbridge we turned right on a narrow dirt path.
IMG_7230

IMG_7231

IMG_7232

This path led about a quarter mile to another paved path where we initially turned right hoping to make a wide loop on another dirt path. We took a left on a little path after a tenth of a mile but it was rather brushy with blackberry vines and some poison oak so we quickly scrapped that idea and returned to the paved path which runs between the east end of Homestead Road and the Shelter Parking Lot #3. This section of trail is a bit drier and more open which allows for a few more flowers as well as little more poison oak.
IMG_7243

IMG_7234

IMG_7241

IMG_7245

IMG_7247

IMG_7248

There is also an old car along the way.
IMG_7249

We were on our way back, but before reaching the gazebo we turned right on the Duck Loop which would swing us out and around some duck ponds.
IMG_7252

IMG_7256

IMG_7257

IMG_7259

IMG_7260

We crossed the park’s entrance road after .9 miles and turned right along it to the Entrance Parking Lot which we found to be super busy. We followed a paved path from the far end of the lot across the Willamette Slough and turned right on another paved path.
IMG_7261

We completed our loop through Minto and headed back toward Riverfront Park.
IMG_7264

IMG_7265

We took a different route back through Riverfront Park in order to go by Salem’s Riverfront Carousel, another great attraction for kids.
IMG_7266

According to our GPS we managed to get 12.4 miles in for the day and there were still trails in Minto that we didn’t get to. Even though urban hikes are a lot different than our normal outings this was a nice hike and gives us a nearby go-to option when we just can’t get away. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Wallace to Minto Parks

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Hood Area Oregon Trip report

Vista Ridge Trail to Elk Cove – Mt. Hood

August is typically one of our busier hiking months but this year things are working out differently. We’ve both had things come up at work leading us to change our vacation plans, the date of our annual family reunion changed, there are forest fires closing large areas of both the Mt. Jefferson and Three Sisters Wildernesses, and the upcoming solar eclipse essentially eliminated any realistic plans for hiking around the 21st.

We actually almost skipped our weekly hike this time around but knowing we’d later regret that decision we turned to Mt. Hood, which has thus far escaped the fire issues this year. Our plan was to take the Vista Ridge Trail up to the Timberline Trail and visit a few familiar areas – Eden Park, Cairn Basin, and Elk Cove.

We began at the Vista Ridge Trailhead.

IMG_6805

We set off through the forest which was damp from a light mist that fell for most of the day.

IMG_6811

It was actually really nice to hike in the cool temperatures and to see some moisture falling.

 

The trail enters an area burned by the 2011 Dollar Lake Fire near a registration box for the Mt. Hood Wilderness after a half mile.

IMG_6812

The Vista Ridge Trail is probably best known for its displays of avalanche lilies in the burn area during July but we discovered that August provided an amazing display of its own.

IMG_6818

The amount of fireweed was simply amazing.

IMG_6822

IMG_6828

IMG_6842

With all the fires currently burning it was nice to be reminded that the forests will recover eventually.

With the misty conditions views were limited but Pinnacle Ridge was visible across the Clear Branch Valley and we spied a bit of Laurence Lake as well as Bald Butte further in the distance.

IMG_6829Pinnacle Ridge

IMG_6831

After two and a half miles we arrived at the junction with the Eden Park Loop Trail.

IMG_6855

A few avalanche lilies were still blooming in this area.

IMG_6845

We turned down the Eden Park Trail which descended through more burned forest filled with more fireweed and some small meadows with other wildflowers.

IMG_6857

IMG_6865

IMG_6869

IMG_6877

IMG_6875

We also crossed several small wildflower lined streams flowing down toward Ladd Creek.

IMG_6884

IMG_6883

IMG_6885

IMG_6886

Eight tenths of a mile from the Vista Ridge Trail junction we arrived at Ladd Creek itself.

IMG_6892

Just beyond Ladd Creek we arrived at Eden Park.

IMG_6897

IMG_6899

IMG_6901

IMG_6902

Beyond Eden Park the trail began to climb on its way up to the Timberline Trail at Cairn Basin.

IMG_6917

IMG_6921

IMG_6923

IMG_6925

IMG_6927

IMG_6930

We turned left on the Timberline Trail and took a short snack break in Carin Basin and visited the stone shelter.

IMG_6934

IMG_6938

After leaving Cairn Basin we recrossed Ladd Creek.

IMG_6940

IMG_6942

It was about a mile from this upper crossing to the junction with the Vista Ridge Trail. There were lots of wildflowers along this stretch as well as some lingering snow.

IMG_6946

IMG_6952

IMG_6953

IMG_6958

IMG_6962

IMG_6966

IMG_6971

IMG_6970

IMG_6973

Wy’East Basin lay just beyond the junction with more flower lined streams.

IMG_6974

IMG_6980

IMG_6982

IMG_6988

We continued on from Wy’East Basin heading toward Elk Cove. Despite not being able to see the mountain, just being on the Timberline Trail gave us that alpine feeling that only the mountains can.

IMG_6992

IMG_6995

IMG_6998

We had passed several rock fields where we had listened and looked for one of our favorite animals, the pika, but had not had any luck. As we began the descent to Elk Cove though we heard the distinctive “meep” of a pika. It’s a sound that always brings a smile to our faces. We had stopped along the trail for a moment to look around and just as we started to resume hiking we spotted one sitting on the rocks ahead.

IMG_7007

IMG_7005

IMG_7009

The descent to Elk Cove when hiking clockwise on the Timberline Trail is an extremely scenic section of trail when visibility is good. The clouds and mist took a bit away from the epic views but it was still an impressive sight.

IMG_7015

IMG_7020

IMG_7022

IMG_7025

IMG_7026

The further down into the cove we went the better the flower display became.

IMG_7036

IMG_7035

IMG_7040

IMG_7044

IMG_7045

IMG_7047

We stopped at an empty campsite near a creek and took a seat while we took in the beauty of the surrounding area.

IMG_7050

We could occasionally see some blue sky to the east which gave us a just a bit of hope that maybe we’d get a view of the mountain after all.

IMG_7053

The blue sky looked to be just on the side of the mountain though and the clouds were continuing to blow in from the west.

IMG_7054

After a while the combination of our damp clothes and the cool breeze became a little chilly so we decided to head back. It appeared that we were out of luck on a mountain view this time but as we were climbing out of the cove the clouds began to break even more.

IMG_7064

IMG_7065

IMG_7066

We waited and watched as the sky cleared up just enough to reveal the mountain before swallowing it up once more.

IMG_7075

IMG_7074

IMG_7077

IMG_7084

It had lasted less than a minute and then we were back in the cloudy mist but it was the icing on the cake for what had already been a great hike. We returned to the junction with the Vista Ridge Trail where we turned downhill, passing the Eden Park Trail junction in .3 miles and arriving back at our car in another two and a half miles. The total distance for the day was just over 11 miles with a little under 2000′ of elevation gain.

We were very glad we hadn’t skipped our weekly hike. Getting out on the trail was really just what we had needed. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Vista Ridge Trail

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Mount Washington Meadows

One week after returning from our Northern California trip we found ourselves headed to Bend to drop off some furniture to our Son who had recently moved.  It wasn’t going to be a long visit due to his having to work so after a quick tour of his new apartment we were back on our way home.

Our plan was to stop for a hike on the way home along the Pacific Crest Trail near Santiam Pass south to Mount Washington Meadows. We had left Salem at 5am so it would still be fairly early when we hiked. Just after 8:30 we pulled into the PCT trailhead near Big Lake.

IMG_6597

We headed south on the PCT which quickly entered the Mt. Washington Wilderness amid trees burned in the 2011 Shadow Lake Fire.

IMG_6601

IMG_6603

The first two or so miles passed through the burn where despite most of the trees being dead, there was plenty of green and other colors present.

2017-08-05 13.36.29

IMG_6801

2017-08-05 13.37.22

2017-08-05 08.56.33

IMG_6599

IMG_6605

IMG_6610

IMG_6611

2017-08-05 08.55.45

IMG_6628

The lack of living trees did allow for some views of both Mt. Washington ahead and Three Fingered Jack to the north beyond Big Lake, the Hoodoo Ski Area and the flat topped Hayrick Butte.

IMG_6644

IMG_6638

IMG_6639

We could also see two small buttes just to the SW of Big Lake which we had hiked around in 2012 when we visited the Patjens Lakes.

That hike was also done during the first week of August, but less than a year removed from the Shadow Lake Fire. It was interesting to see how the forest was recovering with the passing of several more years.

Patjens Lake TrailPatjens Lake Trail – August 2012

IMG_6791Pacific Crest Trail – August 2017

A wider variety of plants including various berries were present now.

We left the burn area where we were able to see what the forest will look like again eventually.

IMG_6650

IMG_6675

We passed several small meadows and lots of wildflowers as we went.

IMG_6661

IMG_6664

IMG_6653

IMG_6657

IMG_6666

IMG_6670

IMG_6683

IMG_6687

We had been gradually climbing and when a break in the trees allowed us a view to the north where we spotted Mt. Jefferson over the shoulder of Three Fingered Jack.

IMG_6672

IMG_6674

It was a bittersweet view as it reminded us that the Whitewater Fire was burning on the west side of Mt. Jefferson and had already burned over portions of several trails leading to Jefferson Park.

There was no real visible smoke but we knew that it was there and those trails would look a lot like what we’d passed through earlier in the Shadow Fire area.

When the PCT began to curve around a ridge to the left the Spire of Mt. Washington came into view.

IMG_6689

An open hillside then opened up views to the south were several other familiar peaks were visible.

2017-08-05 10.47.55_stitch

These included the North and Middle Sister, Belknap Crater, the Husband, Diamond Peak, and Scott Mountain.

IMG_6783North & Middle Sister with Belknap Crater

IMG_6697Scott Mountain

As we continued we passed through some increasingly impressive meadows until reaching a large lupine filled meadow below Mt. Washington.

IMG_6703

IMG_6710

IMG_6718

IMG_6719

IMG_6720

Mt. Washington rose above the meadow where we were able to get a great look at the eroded volcano.

IMG_6733

IMG_6724

IMG_6735

IMG_6744

Lupine wasn’t the only thing in abundance in the meadow. There was also a large number of tortoiseshell butterflies who seemed to be overly attracted to me.

IMG_6730

2017-08-05 11.01.51

2017-08-05 11.03.23

2017-08-05 11.03.30

We continued through the meadow where we found a nice display of cat’s ear lilies still in bloom amid the lupine.

IMG_6745

IMG_6751

At this point we’d gone a little over 5.5 miles, but the level grade of the PCT and the great scenery so far enticed us to continue a little further to see what else the area had to offer. We decided to follow the PCT until it began to lose elevation as it crossed a valley between Mt. Washington and Belknap Crater. We soon found ourselves in another area affected by fire.

IMG_6755

IMG_6779

We ended our hike as the PCT bent around a ridge end where it would begin the 400′ elevation loss before climbing up to the shoulder of Belknap Crater which was visible across the valley.

IMG_6762

From this vantage point we could also make out Little Belknap Crater.

IMG_6774

After a short break we headed back through the meadows and returned to our car.

IMG_6781

The 12.4 mile round trip had proved to be a lot more entertaining than we’d expected. We hadn’t really known what to expect having selected the hike from the back of our guidebook in the additional hikes section, but it had been a thoroughly enjoyable outing. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mount Washington Meadows

Categories
Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Hiking Oregon Trip report

Pilot Rock

On our way home from Mount Shasta City we stopped for a quick hike to Pilot Rock in Oregon’s Soda Mountain Wilderness. We took exit 1 from Interstate 5 and drove north on Old Highway 99 for 6.9 miles to Pilot Rock Road (Road 40-2E-33) where we turned east. Instead of starting at the Pilot Rock Trailhead which is located 2 miles up the road we parked after a mile at the Pacific Crest Trail crossing. (If you do start here be sure not to block the private driveway.)
IMG_6520

From the road Mt. Ashland to the west and Mt. McLoughlin to the north were visible in the morning light.
IMG_6525

IMG_6526

IMG_6528

IMG_6531

We headed south on the PCT (which ironically meant we were going northbound due to the route the trail takes after crossing I-5).
IMG_6527

Most of the flowers were finished but by the looks of things there had been quite a few. A number of late bloomers remained and along with those were some juicy thimbleberries.
IMG_6535

IMG_6538

IMG_6542

IMG_6544

Aside from a couple of very short uphills the trail seemed fairly level and after about 3/4 of a mile Pilot Rock came into view.
IMG_6553

IMG_6555

IMG_6556

After another .9 miles we arrived at a junction with the closed road that serves as the trail from the official Pilot Rock Trailhead.
IMG_6561

The two trails joined for .2 miles passing through a nice forest before splitting once again.
IMG_6563

IMG_6566

We forked to the right following the Pilot Rock pointer. This trail was much steeper and we climbed about 600′ in .7 miles to the base of Pilot Rock.
IMG_6569

IMG_6572

In a perfect world we would have scrambled up to the top of the rock which wasn’t that much higher, but after hiking 80 plus miles and climbing at least 20,000′ over the previous 7 days we weren’t sure that we had the strength and muscle control left to safely climb to and descend from the top.

Rather than risk it we stopped just below the first section where we definitely would have need to use our hands to go any higher.
IMG_6574

We returned the way we’d come. Starting at the PCT put the hike at a little under 5 miles a little less than double what it would have been from the Pilot Rock Trailhead with some nice scenery which would have been even better earlier in the year when the numerous flowers were still in bloom. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Pilot Rock

Categories
California Hiking Mt. Shasta Area Trip report

Black Butte, Horse Camp, and McCloud River Falls

We’d spent five days hiking in the greater Mount Shasta area but it wasn’t until the sixth day that we made it to the mountain that we’d been seeing every day during our hikes. In truth we were holding out hope that the Everitt Memorial Highway might be opened by the end of the week so that we could drive up to the Panther Meadow Trail but that wasn’t in the cards this trip as there was just too much snow still left over from this past winter.

Our plan had always been to do multiple hikes on the day we visited Mt. Shasta and with our other two hikes a go we looked to Hike Mt Shasta for ideas for another trail on the mountain and chose the Horse Camp Trail.

We started our day at the Black Butte Trailhead where we found a caution sign posted by the Forest Service.
IMG_6308

IMG_6390

The slide referenced in the notice was said to be a mile and a half up the the 2.6 mile trail so we figured we could at least get most of the hike in and if it didn’t look too dangerous we could do the whole thing.

The trail began in a the forest climbing steadily as it wound around the cinder cone.
IMG_6309

We’d gotten an early start which was nice not only for the views but for the temperature as well since we’d be gaining over 1800′ feet if we made it to the summit.

IMG_6311

As we emerged from the trees we had a front row view of Mt. Shasta over our shoulders.
IMG_6314

While Mt. Eddy lay straight ahead partly covered by the 14,180′ volcanoes shadow.
IMG_6325

It was a little late in the year for many flowers along the trail but there were still a few as well as some other interesting plants.
IMG_6319

2017-07-28 06.22.39

IMG_6330

2017-07-28 06.25.40

After 1.3 miles the trail came to a switchback revealing a small rocky gorge in the butte.
IMG_6340

IMG_6343

Mt. Eddy was now behind us as we continued to climb with the summit of Black Butte in the sunlight above.
IMG_6345

IMG_6347

Our timing was good as we were in a great spot to watch the Sun rise over Mt. Shasta.
IMG_6346

IMG_6350

IMG_6353

As neat as that was to see the Sun was soon directly on us and things heated up quickly as we clambered over the rocky trail.
IMG_6359

We were beginning to wonder if the Forest Service had made up the slide because we’d been hiking long enough that we were sure we’d gone further than a mile and half and hadn’t seen anything yet. It turned out that the slide was closer to 2 miles along the trail.
IMG_6360

With a little caution it was passable but it didn’t look like it would take much for it to get a lot worse. After passing the slide we came to a second switch back where the trail began to climb more aggressively toward the summit.
IMG_6362

After a third switchback the trail began a series of shorter switchbacks up to the summit where the foundation remains of an old lookout tower.
IMG_6370

Mt. Shasta’s shadow had been replaced by that of Black Butte, but the 6358′ butte couldn’t reach Mt. Eddy.
IMG_6372

Meanwhile the position of the sun made it nearly impossible to look at Mt. Shasta.
IMG_6374

There was a nice cool breeze at the summit and we lingered there awhile before heading down. After completing that hike we hopped in the car and drove to the Bunny Flat Trailhead which is where the Everitt Memorial Highway was gated closed.
IMG_6391

We had several options from this trailhead including Horse Camp, Green Butte, or a loop visiting both. Given the heat and the fact that we were beginning to run out of gas in our legs we opted for the short (1.6 mile) trail to Horse Camp, the site of the Sierra Club Foundation’s Shasta Alpine Lodge.

After filling out a wilderness permit we set off on the trail heading directly toward the mountain.
IMG_6392

IMG_6394

After a short distance we turned left following a pointer for Horse Camp.
IMG_6395

The wide trail passed some patches of wildflowers as it climbed for a mile to a junction with another trail coming from Sand Flat.
IMG_6401

IMG_6399

IMG_6402

IMG_6403

IMG_6405

IMG_6406

IMG_6411

IMG_6413

IMG_6417

The trail steepened as we entered the Mt. Shasta Wilderness but leveled out some as we arrived at the Shasta Alpine Lodge.
IMG_6419

IMG_6428

IMG_6429

We sat in the shadow of the lodge for a moment then explored the area a bit.
IMG_6431

IMG_6433

Behind the lodge climbers were getting last minute instructions before heading up the summit trail.
IMG_6434

Next to the lodge was a spring and spigot for water.
IMG_6437

We declared victory here deciding to leave any other hiking on the mountain for our next visit. We returned to Bunny Flat and headed for our final stop of the day at the Lower McCloud River Falls picnic area.

For this hike we were using a recently obtained guidebook written by Bubba Suess from Hike Mt. Shasta, “Hiking Northern California A Guide to the Region’s Greatest Hiking Adventures”. The book covers all of Northern California and has some amazing looking hike which we hope to get to at some point.

The picnic area is located off of Highway 89 about 15 miles east of Mount Shasta City. Similar to our visit to Castle Lake we were getting a late start due this being our third hike of the day and we found the parking area packed with people trying to escape the heat. We walked over to a signboard with a map and then set off towards a viewpoint of the Lower Falls.
IMG_6447

IMG_6450

A little creative camera work produced a human free photo of the falls.
IMG_6454

We left the crowds at the falls behind and followed the River Trail upstream toward the Middle Falls.
IMG_6455

IMG_6456

We passed by Fowlers Camp which was busy with campers as well as a doe searching for edibles.
IMG_6469

At the end of the camp was a pointer for Middle Falls.
IMG_6470

The Middle Falls were quite impressive and although there were a number of people around it wasn’t nearly as busy as the Lower Falls had been.
IMG_6473

IMG_6477

IMG_6481

From the base of the Middle Falls the trail climbed via switchbacks above the river.
2017-07-28 12.26.07

The next .3 miles were level offering a somewhat obscured view of Mt. Shasta.
IMG_6493

After a total of 2 miles we arrived at the Upper Falls.
IMG_6497

IMG_6502

We continued on a short distance to admire the narrow gorge the river passed through above the Upper Falls.
IMG_6508

2017-07-28 12.35.56

IMG_6513

IMG_6510

We returned the way we’d come and drove back to Mount Shasta City having completed 10 hikes in 6 days in California including visiting 4 wilderness areas that we had not previously been to. We’d seen our first rattlesnake, a bear cub and its mom, several deer and lots of other wildlife. We had experienced amazing scenery on all of the hikes and really couldn’t have asked for a better trip. The one negative happened after we’d showered and changed and headed out for an early dinner.

We chose a small Thai restaurant (the food was excellent) and when we were greeted we were informed that they couldn’t serve us any water. It turned out that the city had issued a boil water warning the day before due to some tests of the city’s drinking water that came back positive for E-coli. We’d been drinking the water all week, lots of water. It’s been five days since our last drinks and so far we seem to have escaped unscathed but we could have done without that scare. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Black Butte, Horse Camp, and McCloud River Falls

Categories
California Hiking Klamath Mountains Trinity Divide Trip report

Castle Crags Wilderness

More potential thunderstorms were forecast for the fourth day of our stay in Mount Shasta City, but then it looked like the threat would be past so we decided to stick close by and spend a day hiking in the Castle Crags Wilderness.

We had three hikes lined up for the wilderness starting with a climb to the base of Castle Dome. For that hike we started at the Vista Point Trailhead in Castle Crags State Park. There was an $8 day use fee for the park which turned into a bit of a fiasco because we only had a twenty, a five, and a one on us and there was no one manning the booth yet to make change. I had hoped that there would be a debit/credit card option but there wasn’t so we had to drive back to Dunsmire to break the twenty.

After obtaining the day use permit we drove the narrow, winding 2.1 mile road to the Vista Point parking area.

IMG_5717

A short walk on the Vista Point Trail brought us to a viewpoint where Mt. Shasta, Gray Rocks, and of course the Castle Crags were visible.

IMG_5720

For the first time during the week Mt. Shasta was sporting a bit of a lenticular cloud.

IMG_5726

IMG_5733

IMG_5735

2017-07-26 06.49.37

IMG_5732

After checking out the view from Vista Point we returned to the parking area and crossed the road to a sign for the Crags and Root Creek Trails.

IMG_5741

The trail passed through a forest with a bit of poison oak here and there.

IMG_5742

We stuck to the Crag Trail when the Root Creek Trail split off to the right and crossed the Pacific Crest Trail after .4 miles.

IMG_5744

Another .4 miles brought us to a junction with the Bob’s Hat Trail.

IMG_5748

A mile later we passed the .2 mile side trail to Indian Springs.

IMG_5755

The forest began to thin not long after we’d passed the Indian Springs Trail and we soon entered the Castle Crags Wilderness.

IMG_5757

IMG_5758

From there it didn’t take long to reach the base of the granite spires of the Castle Crags and climb up the rock.

IMG_5767

IMG_5766

IMG_5778

The views really opened towards the end of the official trail. Castle Dome and Mt. Shasta lined up nicely as we passed the base of rounded spire.

IMG_5780

IMG_5783

IMG_5785

IMG_5789

It was possible to continue beyond the end of the trail sign a bit and explore the area a little more. The rock formations were spectacular, it was hard to process everything we were seeing.

IMG_5791

IMG_5795

2017-07-26 08.34.22_stitch

A viewpoint below Castle Dome provided a nice view of Mt. Shasta as well as a look up the granite tower.

IMG_5803

IMG_5805

Although it’s possible to climb Castle Dome, knowing our limitations, neither of us had any intention of attempting to do so. After a long rest in the cool breeze that provided some nice relief after what had been a warm climb up we headed back down. On the way down we noticed that the cloud above Mt. Shasta had morphed.

IMG_5806

IMG_5808

After a mile we turned toward Indian Springs to check them out.

2017-07-26 09.32.46

IMG_5814

IMG_5816

IMG_5818

There were quite a few mosquitoes near the springs so we didn’t stick around long before heading back and returning to our car.

The trailhead for our second hike was a mere 3 miles from the park entrance so after exiting the park we turned right on Castle Creek Road and pulled into a large parking area on the right. The goal for this hike was Burstarse Falls which we hoped might still have a little water flowing over it. We followed the hike described here on Hike Mount Shasta.

The trail was marked by a metal post with an arrow for the PCT.

IMG_5820

The Dog Trail, so named because dogs are not allowed on the PCT in the Castle Crag State Park so hikers on that trail must go around the park and rejoin the PCT on the other side, climbed for just over a half mile to the PCT.

IMG_5823

IMG_5824

IMG_5828

We turned left on the PCT and followed it for approximately 1.7 miles to Burstarse Creek where a hungry tree was devouring a sign for the creek.

IMG_5829

IMG_5834

There had been some poison oak along the trail so we kept our eyes open as we turned onto the use trail on the south side of the creek. The creek did have some flowing water but it wasn’t much.

IMG_5833

IMG_5836

IMG_5838

The use trail was easy enough to follow especially in conjunction with the information from Hike Mt. Shasta. We arrived at the lower falls to find just a trickle of water running down it. We knew that coming this late in the summer would probably mean little to no water but as long as we were in the area it was worth checking out.

IMG_5840

Heather remained at the lower falls while I continued on scrambling above the falls on the right then crossing and recrossing the creek bed before arriving at the upper falls.

IMG_5843

The sight of the basalt amphitheater gave me a decent idea of how nice the falls must be when the water is freely flowing. I settled for a small spray of water cascading over the lip of the rocks.

IMG_5844

I headed back down to the lower falls to rejoin Heather.

IMG_5845

We headed back to the car once again and were soon on our way to the third and final hike of the day.

For our last hike we returned to I-5 and drove north back almost to Mount Shasta City before turning west and heading for Castle Lake.

IMG_5852

It was an unusually late time for us to start a hike (1:30pm) and it was a hot day. When we arrived at Castle Lake at the end of paved Castle Lake Road we found a whole lot of cars. We parked in the first spot we saw and walked past the mass of cars to the trail.

IMG_5849

We bypassed Castle Lake settling for views along the trail which we were following to Heart Lake.

IMG_5853

IMG_5854

After a .7 mile climb we found ourselves at a pass above Castle Lake. A confusion of trails appeared to head in every direction.

IMG_5861

IMG_5864

Heart Lake lay to our right so we just picked a path and headed in that direction.

IMG_5870

Mt. Shasta emerged from behind a peak to the east over our shoulders as we made our way to Heart Lake.

IMG_5874

After cresting the lip of a glacially carved cirque we spied the lake.

IMG_5875

IMG_5876

There is a spectacular view of Mt. Shasta beyond Heart Lake which can be seen here. We did not get this iconic image due to a group of young bikini clad girls taking turns posing for Instagram photos at the edge of the lake in the gap where Mt. Shasta was visible. They were oblivious to everyone else hoping to get an unobstructed picture of the scene.

IMG_5877

We continued on past Heart Lake (and the Instagrammers) planning on following another route recommended by Bubba Suess at Hike Mt. Shasta. His recommendation was to continue west from the lake and follow a ridge up and around to Castle Peak then return down the far side to complete a small loop with some big views. We continued west past a small tarn then headed up hill on a faint but visible use trail.

IMG_5879

An initial steep climb brought us to the top of the ridge where we were rewarded with a great view.

IMG_5890

We still had a ways to go to reach Castle Peak though.

IMG_5891

The route was pretty brushy and at times we weren’t sure if we were following the correct path, but we kept making our way up the ridge.

IMG_5903

IMG_5905

IMG_5907

When we arrived at the summit of Castle Peak we found one other gentleman who had seen us coming up behind him. The 360 degree view was impressive with the Castle Crags jutting up to the south.

IMG_5908

Further away through the haze we had our best view of the trip of Mt. Lassen.

IMG_5914

To the north the size disparity between Black Butte and Mt. Shasta was striking.

IMG_5909

When it was time to continue on we headed east down the the other side of Castle Peak. Again the brush made it difficult to tell what was in fact supposed to be the trail and we found ourselves just lumbering through whatever route looked easiest.

IMG_5920

I had been attempting to match our GPS track to the one shown on Hike Mt. Shasta but we wound up turning downhill earlier than we should have which caused us to have an unnecessarily steep descent back to the trail to Heart Lake. Once we were back on that trail we turned right and kept right making our way to the trail down to Little Castle Lake.

This trail dropped down from the pass to a meadow with quite a few wildflowers.

IMG_5930

IMG_5932

IMG_5938

IMG_5944

A short distance from the far end of the meadow was Little Castle Lake.

IMG_5946

IMG_5952

IMG_5954

After visiting this final lake we headed back down to Castle Lake. On the way we passed a group of naked hikers which was not something we had expected to see. They were a friendly group that was on their way up to Heart Lake. It made for an unexpected end to an interesting day in the Castle Crags Wilderness. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Castle Crags Wilderness