Category: Washington

Olympic National Park Day 2 – Sol Duc Falls and Lake Crescent 5/13/2025

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 20, 2025
No Comments on Olympic National Park Day 2 – Sol Duc Falls and Lake Crescent 5/13/2025

For our second day at Olympic National Park we originally had planned a long hike on the Sol Duc River, but we both had people recommend visiting Lake Crescent we decided to shorten our hike to Sol Duc Falls and then do a few trails in the Lake Crescent Area.

We began by driving to the Sol Duc Trailhead which was nearly deserted at 6am on a Tuesday morning.

Map of the area trails at the trailhead.

We set off down a set of stairs on the trail.
Anyone know why the spelling on the sign is different?

Violets

Bridge over an unnamed creek.

Trillium

Coltsfoot

Fairy bells

Near the three quarters of a mile mark we came to the Sol Duc Shelter.

Just beyond the shelter was a footbridge over the Sol Duc River at Sol Duc Falls.

Depending on the volume of water there are up to four channels which was the situation on this day.

Heather on the bridge above the falls.

We spent some time admiring the falls then headed back passing a handful of hikers on their way in. Our hike here was just under two miles with approximately 200′ of elevation gain.

From the Sol Duc Trailhead it was a little over half an hour to another waterfall trailhead, Marymere Falls.

It was still just a quarter to eight when we parked here so this lot was fairly empty as well. We set off on the well signed trail past the Storm King Rangers Station.

Storm King Ranger Station

The trail passed under Highway 101 and was relatively level to its crossing of Barns Creek.
Forget-me-nots (non-native) along the trail.

Lake Crescent

Storm King Trail to the left.

Marymere Falls Trail junction with the Barnes Creek Trail.

Footbridge over Barnes Creek.

Barnes Creek

Trillium

Footbridge over Falls Creek almost immediately after crossing Barnes Creek.

Falls Creek

On the far side of Falls Creek a loop began and the trail started to climb to a viewpoint of Marymere Falls.
Start of the clockwise loop.

Marymere Falls

The trail climbing up from the first viewpoint.

Marymere Falls from the second viewpoint.

Final viewpoint before the loop curved away from the falls and descended back to its start.

We completed the loop and headed back to the car.
The footbridges over the two creeks.

Unnamed fall on Falls Creek from the footbridge.

This hike also came in just under two miles, but with 500′ of elevation gain.

From the Marymere Falls Trailhead we drove east on Highway 101 toward Port Angeles to the end of Lake Crescent then turned left onto East Beach Road for three miles and left again on Boundary Creek Road to its end at the trailhead.
It was now almost 9am so there were a few cars parked here already.

This paved trail follows a former railroad along Lake Crescent.

Our plan was to hike to the second of two tunnels and visit the Devil’s Punchbowl along the way. After a short initial climb the trail descended to the old railroad and leveled out as it followed the lakeshore.

Various poems were located along the first mile of the trail.

This trail is open to a variety of users.

Haiku

A second haiku.

Common whipplea

Starflower

Valerian

A dirt trail signed for the Devil’s Punchbowl split off to the left at the first tunnel.

Clear water in Lake Crescent.

Paintbrush

Something in the pea family.

Nearing Devil’s Punchbowl.

Devil’s Punchbowl

There was a fair amount of poison oak along the trail to Devil’s Punchbowl.

Madrones

Honeysuckle

Common cryptantha

Rejoining the railroad trail on the far side of the tunnel.

Butterfly

Another type of trail user.

View west.

View east.

Big deervetch

Fairy slippers

Chipmunk

Woodpecker

Lake Crescent Lodge on the far side of the lake.

Squirrel

Wallflower

The second tunnel.

Thimbleberry

White crowned sparrow

Going through the tunnel.

I went a little further around this bend while Heather took a seat on a log after exiting the tunnel.

Paintbrush

View across the lake toward the Barnes Creek Valley.

I believe the snowiest peak is Lizard Head Peak.

Saxifrage

Chickweed

After a short break we headed back.
Swallow

Oregon sunshine

Lupine

Stonecrop

Variable-leaf collomia

On the way back we opted to hike through the first tunnel instead of the trail by Devil’s Punchbowl.

This was a longer tunnel and had little light near the middle.

Descending to the trailhead.

This wound up being a 6.2-mile hike with about 250′ of total elevation gain.

It was still before Noon so we decided to check out the area around Lake Crescent Lodge, which was close to the Marymere Falls Trailhead, so we drove back to where we’d turned off HWY 101 for that hike and followed pointers for Bovee’s Meadow Day Use Area.

We spent some time at one of the two picnic tables near the lake shore before attempting to follow a trail east to the lodge.
The lake from the picnic table.

Common loon

These mallards came flying in then waddled up to see if they could scrounge something from us, but we explained that we do not feed the wildlife (LNT principle six). They seemed to understand and promptly flew off.

Stellar’s jay

Trying to find the route to the lodge.

Mushroom

A maze of user trails crisscrossed through the trees and there were some student groups working on projects which we were attempting not to disrupt. We wound up at Barnes Creek but with no way to cross.
The lodge is just on the other side.

After looking a little more for a path that would lead to a bridge without going through the students we gave up and returned to our car and drove across Barnes Creek. We wound up parking at the Moments in Time Trailhead and hiking that two thirds of a mile interpretive loop before walking over to the Lake Crescent Lodge.

Interpretive signs explaining the creation of Lake Crescent by glaciers.

This trail had good signage unlike the area near Bovee’s Meadow.

Chair near the lodge.

Lake Crescent Lodge.

We poked around in the lodge and picked up a shot glass which is our go to souvenir for our trips. With the half mile of wandering near Bovee’s Meadow and a little over a mile between the Moments in Time Trail and walking to the lodge our day totaled 11.6-miles over the five stops.

Our hikes at Lake Crescent.

This was a fun day with a nice variety of scenery and trail types. While I’m sure a longer hike along the Sol Duc River would have been beautiful, we were glad we chose to check out the Lake Crescent area instead. We drove back to our cabin outside of Forks and cleaned up then went into town for dinner at Blakelees Bar & Grill which we both enjoyed. Our next two days would be a change of pace as we would be headed for the coast. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Sol Duc Falls and the Lake Crescent Area

Tags Blakelees Bar and Grill, Bovee's Meadow, Devil's Punchbowl, Forks, hiking, Lake Crecent Lodge, Lake Crescent, Marymere Falls Trailhead. Spruce Railroad Trail, Moments in Time Trail, Olympic National Park, Olympic Peninsula, Sol Duc Falls, Sol Duc River, Sol Duc Trailhead. Marymere Falls, Washington

Hiking Olympic Peninsula Trip report Washington

Olympic National Park Day 1 – Hoh Rain Forest 5/12/2025

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 19, 2025
1 Comment on Olympic National Park Day 1 – Hoh Rain Forest 5/12/2025

The hike that we chose for our first in Olympic National Park was the Hoh Rain Forest. Up until the Thursday before our visit access to the area had been cut off by a washout along the access road in December 2024. Fortunately, the State of Washington was able to fund repairs, and the road reopened on 5/8/2025. The forecast was for a slight chance of showers which seemed fitting for a rain forest hike.

We parked at the Hoh River Trailhead near the Hoh Visitors Center.

Starting just before 6am meant we had the trails to ourselves to start the morning so we began with two popular short loops, the Hall of Mosses and Spruce Trails.

The first loop we came to was the Hall of Mosses Trail.
Hall of Mosses pointer.

The Hall of Mosses Trail is a 0.8-mile interpretive loop with some nice green scenery.
Spring fed Taft Creek.

Start of the one-way loop.

Interpretive sign along the loop.

Looking up from the interpretive sign.

Maple Grove

Nursery log

After completing the loop and returning to the Hoh River Trail we crossed Taft Creek and arrived at a junction with the Spruce Nature Trail.

Fallen sign for the Spruce Nature Trail.

We turned right onto the 1.2-mile Spruce Nature Trail and hiked this loop clockwise.

This was another interpretive loop.

Hoh River from the trail.

This huge root ball was hosting its own mini forest.

Taft Creek

After completing the second loop we turned right onto the Hoh River Trail. Our plan was to hike to 5 Mile Island and then turn around.
The trail extends all the way up to Glacier Meadows below Mt. Olympus.

The section of trail to 5 Mile Island was fairly level with just a handful of short up and downs. The scenery was great as was the weather with some blue sky and just a brief misty shower on our way back to the car.

Violet

Fungi

Another type of violet.

Hoh River

Bunchberry and strawberry bramble

Slug

Trillium

Squirrel

One of the “ups”.

Star flower

Hoh River

Mineral Creek

Scouler’s corydalis along Mineral Creek.

Mineral Creek Falls

Unnamed creek a short distance beyond Mineral Creek.

Waterfall on the unnamed creek.

Sign for the spur trail to Mount Tom Creek Camp.

Wren

Vanilla leaf

Water droplet on a vanilla leaf.

More violets

Salmonberry along the trail.

Big leaf maple canopy.

There were a few obstacles such as this closer to 5 Mile Island.

Cougar Creek crossing.

Marker at the spur trail for 5 Mile Island Camp.

Hoh River at 5 Mile Island Camp.

View upriver from the same spot.

Privy at 5 Mile Island Camp.

Crow

Cat Peak, Mount Carrie, and Ruth Peak partly under clouds.

Cat Peak

After a nice long break at 5 Mile Island Camp we headed back to the trailhead. We’d had the trails pretty much to ourselves until the return trip when we started encountering an increasing number of folks on the trail.

We saw a lot of robins, on this hike and the over the next four days.

Slug

Candy flower

Almost back to the trailhead.

This was the longest hike of our week coming in at 13 miles and 400′ of elevation gain.

It was a beautiful hike, and we can only imagine what the remaining miles of trail might be like. It was obvious why this is such a popular area in the park, and we were glad we’d arrived early enough to enjoy some solitude. It was a great introduction to Olympic National Park. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hoh Rain Forest

Tags 5 Mile Island, Hall of Mosses, hiking, Hoh Rain Forest, Hoh River, Hoh River Trail, Mineral Creek, Mineral Falls, Olympic National Park, Olympic Peninsula, Spruce Nature Trail, Washington

Columbia Gorge North Hiking Trip report Washington

Catherine Creek – Coyote Wall Loop – 03/29/2025

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date March 31, 2025
1 Comment on Catherine Creek – Coyote Wall Loop – 03/29/2025

** Note the 2025 Burdoin Fire burned over much of the route described here. **

A combination of inclement weather and illnesses had kept us off the trails for a few weeks, so we were excited to get a chance to head out and check out some wildflowers. We decided to revisit a pair of hikes that we’d done back in 2016 as part of our 500 featured hikes quest. On our 2016 outing we made separate stops at Catherine Creek and Coyote Wall but this time our plan was to hike a loop between the two areas.

We based our route on a loop described in the Oregonhikers.org field guide which begins at the Catherine Creek Trailhead.

The Forest Service along with the Washington Trails Association have been working on restoring these areas including by improving, rerouting and decommissioning various user created trails. It is a work in process so knowing the current conditions and respecting any closed trails/areas is important before visiting.

For our loop today we began by following Atwood Road (right of the signboard).
Atwood Road

The first 3.5 miles of our loop followed this old roadbed. The initial 1.5 miles climbed steadily before the road turned west to traverse the hillside toward Coyote Wall. There were a variety of wildflowers blooming along the lower portion of the road.
Death camas

Saxifrage and a yellow bells.

Grass widows

Gold stars, wood-land stars, and blue-eyed Mary.

Catherine Creek from Atwood Road.

Pungent desert parsley

Catherine Creek Arch from Atwood Road.

Closer look at the arch.

Buttercup

One of the highlights of the day was spotting a number of Dutchman’s breeches on a hillside below some cliffs.
I believe this was just our second time coming across these flowers.

Closer look at the Dutchman’s breeches.

The Columbia River from Atwood Road.

Hairy bittercress (non-native)

Entering the sunlight.

Glacier lilies

wood-land stars

Toothwort

Nearing the forest.

Columbia desert parsley

Shortly before Atwood Road turned we passed a roadbed on the right that led to an old stove.

Heading through the forest.

The road exited the forest not long after turning west and passed through an open hillside with views of Mt. Hood.
Looking east as the road emerged from the forest.

Grassy hillside

This signed trail heading down Sunflower hill is the Bitterwood Trail aka Ca2. This is not yet an official trail, and the Forest Service plans to reroute and build out an official trail in 2025. (Assuming they have employees and funding.)

Mt. Hood behind a few clouds.

Mt. Hood

Popcorn flower

The trail descending into another stand of trees to cross Rowland Creek and continued to alternate between open hillsides and stands of trees before arriving at a signed junction.

Rowland Creek

Another user trail on the left, referred to as the Shoestring Trail by the Oregonhikers Field Guide. This trail is not shown on the Forest Service map nor is it mentioned on their website.

Coastal manroot

Grass widows

View of Mt. Hood’s summit.

Robin hunting worms.

Daffodils

The Upper Labyrinth Trail (aka Co8) joining from below. This was the first junction with signs naming official trails.

We had come up the Upper Labyrinth Trail in 2016 making the next three quarters of a mile a repeat.

Labyrinth Creek below Atwood Road.

The Labyrinth Creek crossing.

Wet trail climbing away from Labyrinth Creek.

Red-tailed hawk

A half mile from the Upper Labyrinth Trail junction, and 3.5-miles along Atwood Road, we arrived at another signed junction at a boundary with some private land.

Here Atwood Road enters the private property, so we followed the pointer for the Old Ranch Trail #4426. We followed this trail downhill 0.3-miles to a signed junction with trail #4427 – Traverse to Coyote Wall where we turned right.

Yellow bells

This was once again new trail for us and we followed it uphill just over three quarters of a mile to a confusing signed junction near the rim of Coyote Wall.

We stayed left here.

We ignored the singletrack leading right on the far side of this unnamed stream.

Here we veered right on the single track. I believe the single track is the “official trail” although both paths led to the signed junction.

A multitude of tracks near the junction.

It appears that the ultimate plan is to have one official route for the Coyote Wall Trail #4428 (aka Co1) and to decommission all others. At this point there was only one small sign identifying a closed trail and it was a path along the rim of Coyote Wall that was covered in a type of netting. We turned uphill at the junction to visit the meadow at the junction but were unsure which path to take. The field guide map has not been updated to identify the new official route and showed a narrow-elongated loop. There was no consistency watching other trail users, so we picked a hiker and followed his route up.

We eventually came to the conclusion that the new official trail was the one that used a series of switchbacks to reach the upper viewpoint.
On one of the switchbacks.

Turkey vulture

The upper viewpoint.

After a short break at the viewpoint we headed back down to the signed junction where we continued down the Coyote Wall Trail.

Balsamroot

Looking east over the Columbia River.

Gold stars

A mile beyond the junction the Old Ranch Road Trail joined from the left at a three way junction.

Here we stayed right on the Little Moab Trail (Co3) and continued downhill along Coyote Wall.

Coyote Wall

The Coyote Wall Trailhead.

Woolly-pod milk-vetch

Miniture lupine, redstem storksbill and a popcorn flower.

Fiddleneck

Poet’s shooting star

We turned right at this junction with the Old Ranch Trail to continue downhill.

Naked broomrape and redstem storksbill

We took another right at this junction with the Little Maui Trail to drop down even further to an old highway.

Tomcat clover and redstem storksbill

The old highway below.

We turned left (east) on the highway and followed it for 0.3-miles to the Labyrinth Trail #4423 (Co7) where we turned left.

The Labyrinth Trail wound through rocky outcrops for 1.2-miles to an unsigned junction with the Upper Labyrinth Trail on an open hillside.
We ignored the Little Maui Connector Trail on the left near the old highway.

Larkspur

The trail to the right here is a spur to Labyrinth Falls.

Labyrinth Falls

Crossing for Labyrinth Creek.

Labyrinth Trail

First view of the Catherine Creek Trailhead on the plateau ahead.

At the junction we stayed right on the Labyrinth Trail. We were happy to not be climbing for a bit as the Labyrinth Trail traversed the hillside before dropping to an ancient rockslide where Native Americans built vision quest pits.

Hound’s tongue

Rowland Creek

Rowland Basin

Lupine and balsamroot

We’d done a pretty good job staying on course given the numerous trail junctions, a good number of which were unsigned, but that ended when we reached another unsigned junction with a rough trail on the left marked by a small rock cairn.

We should have turned left here but got confused reading the field guide entry and wound up staying straight. Apparently straight is the Raptor Trail (Ca1). We didn’t realize our mistake until we spotted the highway below.

At that point I turned around to go back to the junction. Heather was just behind me on her way down and when I informed her of the mistake she decided not to climb back up to the junction but to simply walk the highway a little over a third of a mile to the trailhead. (Apparently the Raptor Trail is closed seasonally from Feb 1 – July 15th, but we didn’t see any signs to that effect.)

I returned to the cairn and turned right up the rough path which led to basalt cliffs and up a scree slope to another unsigned junction after just 0.2-miles.

The Rowland Pinnacle

I turned right at the junction and followed this trail just over half a mile back to the trailhead where Heather was waiting. (Eventually the Bitterroot Trail (Ca2) will replace this user created trail.)

One of several small vernal pools.

The GPS put this hike at 11.9 miles consisting of a little over 2900′ of elevation gain.

There was more climbing than we’d anticipated between Coyote Wall and the Upper Labyrinth Trail junction, but we should have expected it since we’d hike that section before. There was an extra 0.6-miles in that total from the Raptor Trail mistake (which also added 280′ of the elevation gain). It was a great hike though with a lot of variety both in flowers and scenery. Hopefully the Forest Service will be able to finish their projects at these areas and add signage to the official trail junctions to help keep people on the correct trails. These are busy areas (as can be seen from the trailhead photos) in later Winter/early Spring when the wildflowers are blooming. Starting early and doing the longer loop as we did helped to keep our hike from feeling overly busy, but if you can swing a weekday, it would be ideal. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Loop

Tags Atwood Road, catherine creek, catherine creek arch, Catherine Creek Trailhead, coyote wall, hiking, labyrinth falls, Labyrinth Trail, Little Maui Trail, Little Moab Trail, Old Ranch Road Trail, Rowland Basin, Rowland Pinnacle, Upper Labyrinth Trail, Upper Viewpoint, Washington, wildflowers

Hiking Trip report Washington Washington Cascades

Big Huckleberry Mountain – 06/22/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date June 24, 2024
4 Comments on Big Huckleberry Mountain – 06/22/2024

There are a few hikes we’ve done where either fog, clouds, or smoke have left us without a view from our destination. When that happens, we add them to the list of destinations to revisit. Big Huckleberry Mountain was one such destination. Located in SW Washington in the Gifford-Pinchot National Forest we had visited this former lookout site in 2019 (post). For that hike we started from the Grassy Knoll Trailhead. That was an 11.4-mile hike gaining 1800′ of elevation with lots of wildflowers.

While the Grassy Knoll approach was great there are other ways to reach Big Huckleberry Mountain. Two of them are by starting at trailheads along the Pacific Crest Trail from either the north or south. We chose the southern trailhead based on it being the starting point of William L. Sullivan’s featured hike in his “100 Hikes Northwest Oregon” guidebook. An unofficial trailhead, it isn’t shown on Forest Service or Google maps, but a large pullout along Forest Road 68 where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses serves the purpose.
Looking down at the pullout from the PCT on the way back.

Be aware that FR68 is rough with numerous good-sized potholes and one large, steep drop that would be difficult for low clearance vehicles.

From the pullout we crossed the road at a large sign for the Wind River Experimental Forest and headed uphill on the PCT.

The PCT gradually climbed through a nice forest where a good number of wildflowers were blooming. There were also some glimpses of Mt. Hood through the trees. At the 1.3-mile mark the views to the south opened up where a large landslide at some point in the distant past had removed much of the forested hillside.

Phantom orchid

Spotted coralroot

Finetooth beardtongue

Mt. Hood through a window in the trees.

Finetooth beardtongue along the trail.

White spiraea

Bluehead gilia

Paintbrush

Some yellow balsamroot along the trail.

Columbine

Inside-out flower

Queen’s cup

Bunchberry

Vanilla leaf

Arnica

Approaching the landslide area.

Starting at the green up to the left is Augspurger Mountain (post) and Dog Mountain (post) on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge. Mt. Defiance (post) is the high point on the Oregon side with Mt. Hood to the right. The three lower peaks to the right of Mt. Hood are Tomlike, Chinidere, and Indian Mountain (post).

Mt. Hood from the viewpoint.

Lomatium, bluehead gilia, and arrowleaf buckwheat in the bowl.

The trail continued along above the landslide before veering left to pass around a rise along the ridge.

Honeysuckle

On the far side of the rise a spur trail led right to a small wildflower meadow along the side of the landslide.

Wild onion mixed in with bluehead gilia.

Bluehead gilia

Lupine

Catchfly

Beyond the viewpoint the trail dropped to a saddle then resumed its gradual climb following the forested ridge. Just before the 3-mile mark we passed the Cedar Creek Trail coming up from the right. Along the way we passed through a couple more small meadows with nice wildflowers.
Arnica and beargrass in the forest.

Nearing one of the little meadows.

Sub-alpine mariposa lilies

Bluehead gilia

Sub-alpine mariposa lilies

A closer look shows why these are also known as cat’s ear lilies.

Buckwheat

Onion

Bastard toadflax behind a cat’s ear lily.

Rosy pussytoes

Yarrow

Looking back from the meadow.

I believe these are some type of microseris.

Boundary sign for the Wind River Experimental Forest.

Broadleaf arnica

Star-flowered false solomonseal

The Cedar Creek Trail coming up from the right.

Anemones

A third of a mile beyond the Cedar Creek Trail junction the PCT passed by a rocky outcrop. On the far side we took a path to the left leading to the top of the outcrop which had a great view of Mt. Hood and more wildflowers.

Wallflower

White groundsel

Cliff beardtongue

Wild rose

Larkspur

Mt. Hood from the viewpoint.

Spotted coralroot

Oregon sunshine and wild onions

Chickweed

While we were taking a break at the viewpoint another pair of hikers arrived (the only others we would see all day). We left the viewpoint to them and continued on.
Arriving at another small clearing with flowers.

Phlox, penstemon, lomatium, onion, and mariposa lilies.

Another little meadow.

Larkspur and balsamroot

This was the only time we spotted Mt. St. Helens on the hike.

At the 4-mile mark (0.7 from the rock outcrop viewpoint) we arrived at the junction with the Grassy Knoll Trail.

Almost immediately after passing this trail the Big Huckleberry Mountain Trail led uphill to the right.

We had forgotten how steep the 0.2-mile trail to the former lookout site was compared to the PCT, but the wildflowers and views from the long summit were worth it.

Mt. Adams from the former lookout site.

There was a lot of phlox in bloom.

Table Mountain (post) and Greenleaf Peak (post)

Mt. Hood

Mt. Hood with Mt. Jefferson behind to the right.

We walked west from the summit down the wildflower covered ridge to get some additional views.

Balsamroot and groundsel

Mt. Adams

Phlox

Paintbrush and cliff beardtongue

Another view of Mt. Hood.

Sandwort

Chickweed

Balsamroot

Some of the smaller flowers present on the summit.

Finetooth beardtongue

Wallflower

Wild onion

The end of the ridge is about three quarters of a mile from the lookout site.

We took a break on a small rock outcrop to enjoy the scenery and the gentle breeze that was keeping things from being too warm.
Heather on the outcrop.

Painted lady

When we finally started back we heard voices which turned out to be the two hikers that we’d seen at the lower viewpoint. They had set up their amateur radio and had just been communicating with someone in Pennsylvania. We passed by and made our way back past the lookout site and down to the PCT.

Larkspur
Swallowtail

Chickweed in some phlox.

We returned the way we’d come on the PCT enjoying the wildflowers the second time as much as we had the first.

Wallflower

Colubmine

Bluehead gilia

Beargrass along the PCT.

Heading down to the trailhead.

The hike ended up being 9.3 miles with approximately 1460′ of elevation gain.

This was a great hike with good views, lots of wildflowers, and plenty of solitude. The only downside at all was the rough drive up FR 68. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Big Huckleberry Mountain

Tags Big Huckleberry Mountain, cedar creek trail, Grassy Knoll Trail, hiking, Pacific Crest Trail, PCT, Washington, wildflowers, Wind River Experimental Forest

Columbia Gorge North Hiking Trip report Washington

Cook Hill – 06/01/2024

Cook Hill is a 3015′ peak just east of Dog Mountain (post). Dog Mountain is famous for its wildflower meadows and has become so popular that permits are required for weekend hikes during the peak flower season. Cook Hill has its own, albeit less spectacular, meadows and a recent online report informed us that the wildflower display there was near peak. We did some shifting to our planned hikes and headed out to check them out for ourselves.

The hike up Cook Hill is on unofficial trails, partly using old logging roads, primarily on public lands. (A small section past the summit is on private land held by a lumber company.) Matt Reeder featured the hike in his “off the Beaten Trail” guidebook which is what put it on our radar. It can be done as a lollipop loop or a shorter out-and-back. Reeder’s description as well as older trip reports found online mentioned that the trail could be faint in places and that there was no signage present. This was no longer the case as we found a clear trail the entire route and some signage was now present. It may be that the implementation of the permit system has driven more people to this hike, or it may just be more well known now. Whatever the reason we were thankful to those that have been maintaining the unofficial trail.

We arrived at 6:30am and were the third car at the trailhead.
The trailhead is just a large gravel pullout along Cook-Underhill Road.

From the parking area we crossed the road to Jackson Rd (to the left in the above photo).
There is no parking for the trail anywhere along Jackson Rd.

Approximately a tenth of a mile up Jackson Road we came to a gate with a “Cook Trailhead” sign.

We followed the roadbed uphill through a mixed forest with a lot of poison oak off to the sides.

Ookow surrounded by poison oak.

Mt. Defiance (post) across the Columbia River.

Large-flower triteleia

Monkeyflower along the road.

Ookow

Small waterfall through the vegetation.

The first of two crossings of this unnamed creek.

There was a lot of spotted coralroot along the road.

Most of the trees had been cleared from the road, those that remained were easily stepped over.

Anemones

The second creek crossing.

Lupine

White groundsel

Small spring near the junction with the start of the loop.

Reeder mentioned a rock cairn at the start of the loop which was still present, but now there were signs too.

Going counterclockwise seemed to be preferred direction based on trip reports. This was also the shorter distance to the summit at 1.6-miles.

The clockwise sign listed the summit as 2.8-miles away in that direction.

We chose counterclockwise and continued through the forest. The roadbed had been fairly steep but soon this trail began to steepen even more as it approached the small lower meadow.

Arriving at the lower meadow.

At the meadow the trail turned directly uphill through the flowers before reentering the forest.

Balsamroot

Groundsel and balsamroot

Lupine

Death camas

The rocks up ahead made for some nice seats to take in the view from.

Mt. Hood peaking over the ridge to the left with Mt. Defiance to the right.

Mt. Hood

After a much needed break we continued steeply through the forest to the start of the next, much longer meadow.

Vanilla leaf

Starflower

Fairybells

The start of the long upper meadow.

There wasn’t as much balsamroot in the upper meadow, but rather a wide variety of flowers in various stages of blooming.
Larkspur

Violets

Slender phlox and blue-eyed Mary

Phlox

Balsamroot surrounded by larkspur and coastal manroot.

Coastal manroot

Groundsel

Dog Mountain from the meadow.

Chocolate lily

This was the closest lupine to blooming in the upper meadow.

Chickweed

Oregon sunshine yet to boom.

Mt. Hood from the meadow.

The trail continued to climb through the meadow with increasingly better views and flowers.

Woodland stars, larkspur, and lomatium.

Yellow buttercups lining the trail.

Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance

Mt. Hood

Mt. Defiance

Alpine pennycress

Larkspur and lomatium

Chocolate lily eating a buttercup.

Largeleaf sandwort

The final stretch of the upper meadow.

Violets

Phlox

Dog Mountain

Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance from the upper meadow.

Table Mountain (post) and Greenleaf Peak (post) further to the west beyond Dog Mountain.

Phlox, paintbrush, and lomatium

After slowly making our way through the meadow the trail climbed to the forested summit of Cook Hill.

At this point we had hiked a little over 3.5-miles and gained over 2800′. To complete the loop portion of the hike we continued past the summit and made an initially steep descent along a ridge past some more meadow and occasional views of Mt. Adams to the north.

Mt. Adams from between trees.

Arnica

The final stretch of the steep descent was through this forest with no understory.

The trail then leveled out along with the ridge and actually made a very gradual climb to a radio tower.

Vine maple overhanging the trail.

It’s hard to tell from the photo but these were huge paintbrushes.

Another view of Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance.

Dogwood

Trillium

The first tower.

The trail continued past the radio tower to the left on a roadbed and soon passed under a large set of powerlines near more towers at Cook Hill Saddle.

Looking toward Mt. Adams from beneath the powerlines.

Mt. Adams

Wind Mountain (post) sticking up to the left before the Columbia River.

We made a hard right beneath the powerlines on a fainter old roadbed that quickly reentered the forest.
The faint roadbed heading left back toward the forest.

We followed this roadbed back to the signed junction to complete the loop. This part of the trail was more overgrown with a few more logs to step over but it was still quite easy to follow and navigate.

Wild ginger

Candyflower

The trail passed under a talus slope where a fair number of flowers were present.

Lupine and yarrow

Stonecrop

Bee visiting penstemon.

The talus slope.

Descending to the junction.

At the junction we turned right to head back to the car. At this point we’d encountered just three other hikers, but now that it was later, and we were off the loop we passed around two dozen more hikers heading up.

Ookow and bachelor buttons along the trail.

Bachelor button

Heather spotted this arctic skipper on some vetch.

Clarkia. It wasn’t open yet when we’d passed by in the morning.

There were a lot of phantom orchids starting along the lower portion of the hike, but this was the only one with any flowers opened.

Cook-Underhill Road from Jackson Road.

The hike was challenging at 8.5-miles and over 2900′ of elevation gain, but the views and the flowers had made the effort worth it.

The parking area was full when we got back, and several cars had parked along the shoulder of the road which could become an issue at some point. The other thing we saw that could cause problems were the bags of dog poop left along Jackson Road, yuck. Please be respectful of both public and private lands and happy trails!

Flickr: Cook Hill

Tags arctic skipper, Columbia River Gorge, Cook Hill, Cook Hill Saddle, Cook Hill Trailhead, hiking, Washington, wildflowers

Columbia Gorge North Hiking Trip report Washington

Lower Archer Falls, Wind Mt., Sams-Walker, & Doetsch Ranch – 4/13/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date April 15, 2024
1 Comment on Lower Archer Falls, Wind Mt., Sams-Walker, & Doetsch Ranch – 4/13/2024

Our first April outing was a trip to the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge to check out four short hikes. These were all new hikes for us located within 23-miles of each other.

We began our day with me realizing that I hadn’t made sure that our NW Forest Pass was in the car since one was needed for two of our planned stops. This despite thinking that I needed to do that several times over the previous several days, including the day before when I was putting the Washington Discovery Pass we needed for Doetsch Ranch in the glovebox. Fortunately we were only in downtown Salem so we weren’t too far from home. Unfortunately the pass wasn’t in the other car or any of the places that I could think (at 5am) of where I might have put it. I decided it would probably quicker and much less stressful to purchase an ePass online for the day and look for the missing annual pass later.

Once we had our pass situation straightened out we drove to our first stop at the St. Cloud Day Use Area.

The day use area has picnic tables, a 1-mile loop trail, and a vault toilet (thus the need for a NW Forest Pass). Before exploring the day use area though we wanted to check out nearby Lower Archer Falls. To reach the trail to the falls we walked back to Hwy 14 and crossed to an unsigned trail that lead into overgrown woods. The need to cross the highway was the deciding factor on us starting our day here. We figured that there would be less traffic before 8am than there would be later in the day.
The brown strip in the grass near the center of the photo is the trail.

The trail entering the woods.

Pointer for Lower Archer Falls.

The user-maintained trail was in pretty good shape up until just before the falls where a small slide has done a bit of damage and just beyond that one of the make shift bridges seemed a little sketchy.
Bridges over Gable Creek.

Big Doug Bridge (Jan 23) over Archer Creek.

Archer Creek

After crossing the creek the trail did a short climb gaining approximately 150′ of elevation.

Trillium along the trail.

One of several of these style bridges on the way to the falls.

The “sketchy” bridge. It felt pretty solid underfoot, but the rail seemed ornamental only.

The final footbridge before the falls.

The trail extends beyond the falls climbing to a junction with the Archer Mountain Trail, but that route is reportedly less maintained with blackberry, poison oak, and nettles crowding the trail at times. We weren’t interested in that much adventure today so after enjoying the falls we headed back stopping along the way to admire the Spring wildflowers.
Steps leading up from Lower Archer Falls.

Trillium

Scouler’s corydalis

Bleeding heart

Salmonberry

Fairy bell

Fringecup

After successfully recrossing the highway we hiked the mile long St. Cloud Loop.
The start of the loop.

The trail loops around a former apple orchard.

Apple blossoms

A spur trail leading down to the Columbia River.

Devil’s Rest and Multnomah Falls (post)

Multnomah Falls

Yellow-rumped warbler.

The St. Cloud Day Use Area was the westernmost stop of our day, and from there we headed for the easternmost stop at the Wind Mountain Trailhead. The trailhead is approximately a tenth of a mile downhill beyond a quarry. We parked at the quarry where two other vehicles were parked instead of continuing down the narrow, steep, slightly rutted road.
The quarry later in the morning.

Pullout at the actual trailhead.

The Wind Mountain Trail at the trailhead.

The Wind Mountain Trail gains over 1100′ in just over a mile as it climbs to the summit of Wind Mountain. The mountain’s summit is sacred to the area’s Native American tribes and signs near the summit show the areas where hikers are allowed to be.

The climb was a good workout. While the trail didn’t appear to be all that steep our legs reminded us that it was.

There was a nice variety of wildflowers on display and at the 0.4-mile mark we came to a spur trail leading out to a rock outcrop.
Slender toothwort

Trillium

Red flowering currant

Close up of red flowering currant

Pioneer violet

Fairy slipper

Blue-eyed Mary

The spur trail down to the outcrop.

The spur trail was steep a little sketchy in spots so Heather opted to skip the viewpoint while I carefully made my way down.
Looking back up the spur trail.

Serviceberry

Augspurger Mountain (post) from the outcrop.

Dog Mountain (post)

After taking in the view I returned to the trail and continued uphill.

Largeleaf sandwort

Talus slope on Wind Mountain.

Slender toothwort along the trail.

One of the signs near the summit.

Interpretive sign with a map of the areas open to hikers.

Trillium

View west down the Columbia River. Hamilton Mountain (post), Table Mountain (post), and Greenleaf Peak (post) from L to R in the center.

Mt. Defiance (post) from the summit.

Vision quest pits on Wind Mountain.

Mt. Adams beyond Augspurger Mountain.

Mt. Adams

Looking across the Columbia River.

There was a nice breeze at the summit, and we took a well-earned break before heading down. Up till that point we’d only seen five other hikers all morning, but now that it was later we found ourselves stepping aside regularly to let the uphill traffic pass. From the quarry we headed back West to our next stop at the Sams-Walker Day Use Area.

Similar to the St. Cloud Day Use Area the area is a former homestead with picnic tables, a 1.1-mile loop trail, and vault toilet. We were surprised to find the small parking lot here almost entirely full. As it turned out group from the Friends of the Columbia River Gorge were out doing some planting.

We were able to park along the edge of the trailhead entrance and set off on the loop.

There are a couple of loop options here, but no maps to assist with navigation. We had our GPS map and a map from the Oregon Hikers Field Guide, but it turns out they are both outdated so when we veered right at the first split we planned on hiking the outer loop counterclockwise.
The first split where we went right.

A tenth of a mile later we came to another split which managed to confuse us based on the maps we had available.
To continue on the counterclockwise loop we should have turned right at the junction ahead.

We veered left thinking that the righthand trail was a connector passing through the middle of the day use area. In another tenth of a mile though we arrived at “T” junction where we realized that the left at the first junction was the outer loop going in a clockwise rotation.
We turned right at the junction now doing the loop clockwise.

Coming up on one of the picnic tables along the loop.

The Columbia River from the picnic table.

Horsetail Falls (post) from the picnic table.

We continued on loop which eventually passed through a cedar grove before bringing us back to the second junction we’d passed.

Chipping sparrow

White-crowned sparrow

Bleeding heart and fringecup

The cedar grove

Completing the first loop.

When we got back to the second junction we decided to go right and then take a left at the third junction to hike the portion of the outer loop that we’d missed. It was along this quarter mile section that we passed the group from Friends of the Columbia Gorge.

Spider on perriwinkle

After hiking all the trails here we returned to Highway 14 and drove 2 miles back to the east to turn into the Doetsch Ranch Day Use area of Beacon Rock State Park.
Kiosk at Doetsch Ranch.

A 1.1-mile paved loop circles the picnic area. We set off counterclockwise from the kiosk following the paved path for a little over 3/4 of a mile to another parking area along Beacon Rock Moorage Road.

Beacon Rock (post) from the trail.

Beacon Rock and Hamilton Mountain.

Coming up on the other parking area.

We left the loop at the road and followed the road down to the river. Next we walked up the road passing under railroad tracks to find the start of the 0.75-mile River to Rock Trail.

Woodward Creek

This trail climbs over 250′ before dropping to the River to Rock Trailhead. Along the way the trail passes around Riddle Lake and an old stone structure along with many wildflowers.
Fairy bells, vine maple, and fringecup

Columbian larkspur

Trillium and voilets

Checker (chocolate) lilies

Bleeding heart

This was just one part of the best display of chocolate lilies we’d ever seen.

There were a couple of lilies with this coloration which was new to us.

Riddle Lake

Dropping down to the River to Rock Trailhead.

Looking back up the River to Rock Trail.

We hadn’t planned on re-hiking Beacon Rock and the steady stream of people we could see from the trail going up and down the stairs reenforced that choice. We returned the way we’d come and then completed the paved loop at Doetsch Ranch to finish off our day.
Passing back by the large patch of chocolate lilies.

Our first butterfly of 2024, an echo azure.

Completing the loop.

Our mileage for the day came to 9.2 with 1.6 coming at each Sams-Walker and St. Cloud, 2.7 at Wind Mountain, and 3.3 at Doestch Ranch. The elevation total was a nearly 1700′ with nearly 1200′ coming at Wind Mountain, 185′ at St. Cloud, and 270′ on the River to Rock Trail.
St. Cloud and Lower Archer Falls

Wind Mountain

Sams-Walker

Doetsch Ranch

While none of the hikes were long enough to justify the 1:30 to 2hr drive from Salem combining them made for a more than worthy outing. When we got home it took me all of 5 minutes to remember where our annual forest pass was. I’d put in a shoebox on the work bench in our garage. Apparently 5am brain isn’t up to par with 3pm brain. Happy Trails!

Flickr: St. Cloud, Wind Mt. Sams-Walker, & Doetsch Ranch

Tags beacon rock, Beacon Rock State Park, Columbia River, Columbia River Gorge, Doetsch Ranch, Doetsch Ranch Day Use Area, Friends of the Columbia River, hiking, Lower Archer Falls, River to Rock Trail, Sams-Walker, St. Cloud Day Use Area, Washington, Wind Mountain, Wind Mountain Trail

Hiking Oregon Washington Year-end wrap up

The Hikes of 2023 – A Look Back

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date January 15, 2024
No Comments on The Hikes of 2023 – A Look Back

2023 was another unique year of hiking for us. I made it outside for hikes on 62 days while Heather managed to join me, at least in part on 58 of those days. We set off from 109 trailheads and 5 times from our tent which was the highest number of starting points for us in a given year. While the 62 days marked my second highest number of days spent hiking the 608.5 miles hiked was just the 8th most miles in a year. In other words, 2023 was the year of shorter, multiple stop days allowing us to visit a good number of different trails.

In fact, our shortest hike was just over a quarter mile at Nesika Park in Lincoln City (post) while my longest hike was a 17.7 mile out-and-back up and over Mt. Hebo (post).

This year we visited city, county, and national parks as well as state and national forests. We also made it to a national monument and a national volcanic monument. We spent time at six national wildlife refuges and a couple days hiking in privately held nature preserves. Seventeen hikes took us into ten different designated wilderness areas. We truly are blessed to live in a region with so many options and so much variety.

While we continue to focus on hikes that we have not done before we spent a higher percentage of our time hiking in Oregon than typical this year. We spent just three days in Washington, none in California, and for only the second time hiked a trail in Idaho along the Snake River. That being said only 17 of our days brought us to a trail we’d hiked in a previous year and none of the hikes were an exact repeat of one we’d done before.

Our most northern hike was in Washington on the Boundary Trail North of Mt. St. Helens (post).

I would have guessed our Eastern most hike was the one in Idaho, but it was actually another stop we made that same day on the Oregon side of the Snake River (post).

While we didn’t hike in California this year our Southernmost hike at Tanner Lakes saw us briefly drive through part of the State to reach the trailhead (post).
Peaks in California from Tanner Mountain.

Once again our Western most hike was near the Pacific Ocean, but it wasn’t one of our beach hikes, it was actually slightly inland at Cape Mountain near Florence (post).
The Pacific Ocean from Cape Mountain.

In general the weather was good this year, almost too good, as drought conditions have been an issue. Aside from getting caught in a heavy thunderstorm at Cathedral Hills (post) precipitation was almost non-existent. Clouds and fog were also not much of an issue this year, with a trip to Mt. Hood (post) being the only day where our views were impacted by either of these. It wasn’t all clear views though as persistent smoke, first from wildfires in Canada then fires in California and Southern Oregon left most views with at least a hint of haze seemingly the entire year.

Our biggest accomplishment this year was reaching our goal of hiking all 100 featured hikes in one of William L. Sullivan’s
“100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2 (post). During an October trip to Grants Pass we checked off the final hikes with the last being a visit to Babyfoot Lake in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness (post).

I hope to get our usual wildlife and flower galleries out at some point over the next couple of months, but I’ll leave this post with some of 2023 highlights.

Friends of Wildwoods Trail – Lincoln City, OR (January)

Talking Water Gardens – Albany, OR (April)

Whiskey Creek – Rogue River National Recreation Trail, OR (May)

Wagner Butte from the Sterling Mine Ditch Trail – Southern Oregon (May)

Illinois River from the Kerby Flat Trail – Southern Oregon (May)

Mt. Hood from the Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge – Sherwood, OR (May)

Deschutes River from the Criterion Tract – Central Oregon (May)

Mt. Adams from Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge – Washington (June)

Hat Rock – Hat Rock State Park, OR (June)

View from the Imnaha River Trail – Eagle Cap Wilderness, OR (June)

Pond at Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site – Joseph, OR (June)

Snake River at Eureka Bar, OR (June)

Buckhorn Lookout, OR (June)

Blossom Bar – Rogue River, OR (June)

North Bank Habitat – Roseburg, OR (June)

Natural Rock Arch – Niagra, OR (July)

Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack from Sand Mountain – Willamette National Forest, OR (July)

Stuart Falls – Sky Lakes Wilderness, OR (July)

Plaikni Falls – Crater Lake National Park, OR (August)

View from Crater Peak – Crater Lake National Park, OR (August)

Crater Lake from the Cleetwood Cove Trail – Crater Lake National Park, OR (August)

Oregon Trail replica wagon – Baker City, OR (August)

Eagle Cap Wilderness, OR (August)

View from the Bear Lake Trail – Eagle Cap Wilderness, OR (August)

Tombstone Lake – Eagle Cap Wilderness, OR (August)

Traverse Lake – Eagle Cap Wilderness, OR (August)

Rockaway Beach Cedar Preserve Boardwalk – Rockaway Beach, OR (August)

Dry River Canyon – Central Oregon (September)

Kurmbo Reservoir – Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, OR (September)

Seven Lakes Basin – Sky Lakes Wilderness, OR (September)

Sisi Butte Lookout – Mt. Hood National Forest, OR (September)

Olallie Butte from Lower Lake – Mt. Hood National Forest, OR (September)

Rock spire along the Castle Canyon Trail – Mt. Hood Wilderness, OR (September)

Sun rays at Strom Boulder Ridge – Burnt Woods, OR (September)

Bondary Trail above Sturgis Fork – Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest (October)

Lake Mountain Trail heading toward the taller Mount Elijah – Oregon Caves National Monument & Preserve (October)

Tanner Lake – Red Buttes Wilderness, OR (October)

Grayback Mountain snow shelter – Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest (October)

Babyfoot Lake – Kalmiopsis Wilderness, OR (October)

Vivian Lake – Diamond Peak Wilderness, OR (October)

Pool Creek Falls – Willamette National Forest, OR (October)

Tunnel Beach – Oceanside, OR (October)

D River – Lincoln City, OR (November)

Mt. Hood through the shelter on Scouters Mountain – Portland, OR (December)

Hidden Falls – Hidden Valley, OR (December)

Unfortunately, not everything was blue skies in 2023.
At the end of the year I retired my favorite hiking T-shirt after eight years. We’d found some Marvel T-shirts at Target in late 2014/early 2015 in their active wear section made of wicking material. I picked up a Punisher shirt for less than $20.00. Over the next 8+ years I wore that T-shirt on at least 85% of our hikes. That works out to over 450 outings and over 5000 miles. We’ve never been able to locate another like it that wasn’t at least part cotton. It was stretched out and had developed several holes of the last couple of years, but it performed admirably.

More disappointing was the closure of our local (and go to) outdoor store, Salem Summit in July. They closed their doors after 11+ years. It was a big loss for us and the Salem outdoor community, but we are grateful for all the help and support that Al and the staff provided through those years.

California Hiking Oregon Washington Year-end wrap up

Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – January 2024 Update

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date January 1, 2024
17 Comments on Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – January 2024 Update

In 2019 we posted about our goal to complete 500 “featured” hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 hikes” guidebook series. The following year we finished the first of the five guidebooks (post) and followed that up by completing two more in 2021 (post). That left us with just the Eastern Oregon and Southern Oregon/Northern California books to complete. In 2022 we managed to make significant progress on the hikes to the south by checking off 28 featured hikes from the southern book, but just 6 featured hikes in the eastern book (post). That left us with a reasonable shot at completing the southern book in 2023.

We began the year with the remaining 19 southern hikes on the calendar along with 8 more eastern hikes. As is usually the case things did not go exactly as planned. Two of the hikes we’d planned during our first trip to Grants Pass in May were inaccessible due to lingering snow, but we were able to push them both back to later dates and complete them later in the year. We completed our 99th and 100th featured hikes on 10/09/2023 (post).

Then on our first tip to Eastern Oregon in June resulted in our deciding to switch the version of Sullivan’s book from the 3rd edition to his more recent “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” 1st edition. (The edition numbers reset when Sullivan changed the title from 100 Hikes/Travel Guide simply to 100 Hikes.) The switch was prompted by us not feeling comfortable with, or having the time to make, the drive to Dug Bar (post). Dug Bar had been removed as a featured hike in the newer 1st edition, along with a few others, so making the switch allowed us to avoid that drive. The tradeoff was needing to return to Steens Mountain in SE Oregon to hike one of the new featured trails at Threemile Canyon, a mere 350 miles from Salem. At least that trailhead was located along a paved highway though. We rearranged some hikes in both 2023 and future years to move up the new featured hikes and were back on track. We wound up completing 10 featured hikes instead of 8 from the eastern book, but after subtracting the 6 former 3rd edition featured hikes that we’d completed, and adding one new featured hike that we’d already completed we ended the year up only 5 from the end of 2022 (84 vs 79).

Here is where we now stand at the end of 2023, having been on 484 of the 500 featured hikes:

100/100 – “100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” 4th Edition 2012 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” 3rd Edition 2009 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th Edition 2018 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” Edition 4.2 2021 (post)

84/100 – “100 Hikes: Eastern Oregon” 1st Edition 2015

With just 16 more hikes to check off to complete our goal we are on track to finish the final hike in August 2024 somewhere in the Wallowa Mountains. Happy Trails!

Tags 100 Hikes, hiking, Oregon, William L Sullivan

Hiking Mt. St. Helens Trip report Washington Washington Cascades

The Hummocks to Johnston Ridge – 07/01/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 3, 2023
1 Comment on The Hummocks to Johnston Ridge – 07/01/2023

On May 14, 2023 a washout along Washington’s SR504 below the Johnston Ridge Observatory closed vehicle access for the foreseeable future. We’d visited the observatory in August 2013 (post) and had planned on revisiting this July. While the washout made driving to the observatory impossible the trails in the area were not impacted. The shortest route was to start at the Hummocks Trailhead and take the Boundary Trail from its intersection with the Hummocks Trail to the observatory. We actually had this hike on our 2024 schedule for July so we swapped those (hoping that the road is repaired before then).

This would also be our second visit to The Hummocks having hiked the 2.5-mile loop in May of 2014 (post) before hiking a longer loop around Coldwater Lake. From the trailhead we set off on the left most trail (next to the large signboards).

While the loop did come in at 2.5-miles it was a little over 3/4 of a mile to the Boundary Trail.

There were a lot more flowers (and green vegetation) along the trail than there had been during our May hike.
Lupine

One of several ponds along the trail.

Interpretive signs, trail guide markers, and “Student Stops” are located throughout the loop.
A “Student Stop” marker surrounded by dwarf lupine. We aren’t sure what the these meant or what program they are related to.

An interpretive sign along the trail facing some of the hummocks.

Penstemon

Mt. St. Helens as we neared the Boundary Trail junction.

Trail guide marker #3 and an interpretive sign at the junction.

We turned left onto the Boundary Trail which began as a level path passing by more hummocks.
The lower left map shows the current closure area and open trails. In a nutshell, all the trails are open but everything off-trail to the side facing SR504 is currently closed.

The views of Mt. St. Helens were great.

The trail began to climb as it squeezed between a gap in the hillsides ahead.

View back to the hummocks from the gap.

Trees in the gap.

After exiting the gap we got another good view of the mountain before the trail veered left turning away from the mountain.

After another short level stretch the trail began to climb in earnest. While the climb never felt very steep the trail netted 1400′ of elevation gain over the next 3 miles to reach the parking lot at Johnston Ridge.
Heading away from Mt. St. Helens to start the climb.

Dwarf lupine was profuse below the ridge.

Scouler’s bluebell

Thimbleberry blossoms

Castle Peak above Castle Lake with Spud Mountain to the right and the North Fork Toutle River below.

Horned lark

Tiger lily

Savannah sparrow

Heading back toward Mt. St. Helens.

The North Fork Toutle River flowing between Spud Mountain (left) and Elk Rock (right).

Castle Peak and Castle Lake

Elk Rock on the left and Coldwater Lake on the right.

Coldwater Lake

Mountain bluebird.

At one point quite a bit of dust? kicked up from the South Fork Toutle River canyon.

The trail contoured along the hillside, occasionally entering a stand of trees or losing sight of the mountain behind a ridge.

Cardwell’s penstemon

A little over 2 3/4-miles from the Hummocks-Boundary Trail junction we came to a viewpoint at a ridge end where we could see Coldwater Peak and the top of Mt. Adams.
Coldwater Peak with Mt. Adams to the far right of the photo. The hiker ahead to the left of Coldwater Peak was from Belgium. He was here on work but using the weekends to explore the area. We would see him two more times, once from the observatory as he continued on the Boundary Trail and then as we were exiting the trailhead. He had done a loop using the Coldwater Trail (post) which by our calculations would have been at least 16-miles and that is assuming he didn’t detour to Coldwater Peak.

Mt. Adams from the viewpoint on our way back. The angle of the Sun earlier caused the mountain to look pretty washed out.

Mt. St. Helens from the viewpoint.

Variable-leaf collomia

The Loowit Viewpoint on the ridge ahead.

Paintbrush covered hillside.

The Loowit Viewpoint is located along SR504. The Boundary Trail passes by the viewpoint 3/4 of a mile from the Johnston Ridge Observatory.
Mt. St. Helens from the Loowit Viewpoint.

Mt. St. Helens crater.

As we continued on from the viewpoint we were under the watchful eye of some nosey locals.

Golden mantled-ground squirrel. These brazen con-artists often convince visitors they would starve without humans help. While this is definitely not the case and wildlife really shouldn’t be fed it happens all too frequently. (They are awfully cute though.)

The closer we came to the observatory the more paintbrush we began seeing.
A single plant.

A lot of paintbrush.

Daisies and paintbrush

Penstemon, yarrow, and Scouler’s woolyweed along with the paintbrush.

Paintbrush and penstemon along the trail.

The Boundary Trail turns to a paved path across from the parking lot for the observatory following the parking entrance road for approximately 450′.

Passing by the Johnston Ridge Observatory.

Before and after photos of the 1980 eruption.

We followed the Eruption Trail uphill to a mountain identifier then down the other side to rejoin the Boundary Trail.

Mt. Adams peaking over the ridges with Spirit Lake also visible (center).

Spirit Lake

The mountain identifier ahead on the left.

We could see where the repair work was happening on SR504 from this trail.

The rounded peak to the right is Goat Mountain (post).

Goat Mountain with a few patches of snow still showing up.

Rock Arch near Coldwater Peak.

Memorial for the lives lost in the 1980 eruption.

Junction with the Boundary Trail.

The views and flowers were so nice that we decided to continue on the Boundary Trail for a bit. The trail had been slowly losing elevation and after a little over a half mile neared a saddle where more elevation would have been lost. We decided to turn around there since shortly after climbing up from the saddle on the far side the trail would lose sight of Mt. St. Helens as it passed behind the ridge for a bit.

Pussypaws

Another view of the washout.

Our turn around spot. You can see the trail on far side of the saddle veering left behind the ridge.

Coldwater Peak from our turnaround spot.

We headed back to the Hummocks Trail, sticking to the Boundary Trail the entire way.
The Johnston Ridge Observatory from the trail. We hadn’t realized how much elevation we’d lost until we turned around.

Castle Peak and Spud Mountain on the left and the observatory above some colorful cliffs.

Penstemon

White crowned sparrow

Boundary Trail leaving the Loowit Viewpoint.

Snowberry checkerspot on penstemon.

Another checkerspot, this time on lupine.

Cedar waxwings

When we arrived back at the Hummocks Trail we turned left to finish that loop.

Mt. St. Helens and the North Fork Toutle River.

Between it having been 9 years since we’d hiked this trail and the difference in the time of year the scenery was very different.

The same view in May 2014.

Same spot, different angle 2014.

Monkeyflower

Maybe a yellow-rumped warbler.

Caterpillar

Dragonfly

Pearly everlasting

Arriving back at the Hummocks Trailhead.

The hike came in at 12.5 miles with just under 2000′ of cumulative elevation gain.

This turned out to be the perfect day for this hike. The weather was pleasant, the views and flowers great, and the road closure provided solitude at the observatory. In addition to the Belgian hiker we passed a couple near the small viewpoint on the way to the observatory. We passed a few more people on the way back but nearly half of those were volunteers with the Mt. St. Helens Institute. The only thing that the hike lacked was any larger wildlife. It was one of the only hikes we could recall at the mountain where we didn’t see at least one deer, elk or mountain goat. Maybe next time. Until then Happy Trails!

Flickr: Boundary Trail – Hummocks TH to Johnston Ridge

Tags Boundary Trail, hiking, Hummock Trailhead, Hummocks, Hummocks Trail, Johnston Ridge, Johnston Ridge Observatory, Loowit Viewpoint, Mt. St. Helens, mt. st. helens national volcanic monument, North Fork Toutle River, Washington, wildflowers

Columbia Gorge North Hiking SW Washington Trip report Washington

Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Nestor Peak – 06/03/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date June 5, 2023
No Comments on Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Nestor Peak – 06/03/2023

We have really come to enjoy spending time at wildlife refuges and have been looking for more to visit. I’d noticed Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge on maps when looking at the Mt. Adams area so I dug a little deeper to find that there is a trail there, the Willard Springs Trail. The refuge webpage describes the Willard Springs Trail as a “two-mile loop” then lists the trail length as 3.79 miles. The Oregonhikers.org field guide entry shows 2.3 miles as the hike length. No matter which length was correct, on it’s own the hike would be too short to warrant the 2:30 hour drive from Salem. I went looking for a way to fit a visit in and looked over my map of future trailheads and saw that the trailhead for the Nestor Peak hike was located on the way to the refuge. The Nestor Peak hike was just over 8-miles so adding the Willard Spring Loop would put the day around 11 miles which sounded manageable.

Our plan was to visit Conboy Lake first since it was the furthest from home, and an earlier start there might provide a better chance at spotting wildlife. We parked at the refuge headquarters and made our way to the historic Whitcomb-Cole Hewn Log House.

The path to the cabin on the right.

Built in 1875 the cabin was moved from its original location in 1987.

The snowy top of Mt. Hood from the cabin.

After exploring the cabin we set off on the Willard Springs Trail only we briefly went the wrong way. A grassy track lead north directly across the gravel road from the path to the cabin and we took it.

We got about 250′ before realizing that this path was just going to take us back to the parking lot so we backtracked to the gravel road and followed it toward the lakebed across a small canal. (The Garmin named this Cold Springs Ditch.)

We turned left on a wide grassy track along the ditch. Numerous colorful birds were flying in and out of the bushes and trees along the ditch, most of which would not sit still long enough for me to photograph.

There was a lot of monkeyflower in and along the ditch.

Lupine along the ditch.

Lazuli bunting

Robin

Yellow warbler (according to the Merlin app).

Red-winged blackbird

The top of Mt. Adams above the trees.

We followed the ditch for a third of a mile then crossed over it to a field with bird houses and more birds.

Swallow

Western bluebirds

We stayed right at a junction near the corner of the field following the trail through the grass then into a mixed forest.

Honeysuckle

Columbine

Rose

The lakebed was often visible through breaks in the trees.

Through one such gap in the trees we spotted a pair of greater Sandhill cranes. The refuge is the only place in Washington that supports breeding pairs of the birds.

Approximately 1.4 miles from the trailhead we came to a 4-way junction. To the left was a “shortcut trail” and to the right a viewing platform with the Willard Springs Trail continuing straight(ish).

Continuation of the Willard Springs Trail behind the sign.

More often than not on our hikes we strike out with viewing platforms/bird blinds. (We’d have better luck if we sat and waited for the wildlife to come to us.) It was a different story today with a deer making its way across the lakebed and an excellent view of Mt. Adams.

We hung around long enough that this warbling vireo came to check on us.

After a nice break at the platform we continued on the Willard Springs Trail. After another 0.5-miles we came to a signed spur trail to Willard Springs.

We followed this spur 0.2-miles to its end at a couple of benches near the springs.

Willard Sprins hidden in the vegetation. We could hear them better then we could see them.

A healthy lupine near the springs.

We returned to the junction and continued on the loop which now turned back south. It was interesting to see the change in the forest along this section that was further from the lakebed.

Cat’s ear lily

Hitchhiker

Lupine along the trail.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel

Swallowtail

Lorquin’s admiral

Arriving back at the refuge headquarters.

Two interesting things to note about the hike were that the Oregonhikers.org Field Guide mentioned a trailhead 0.2-miles from the HQs along the entrance road but we passed no trails coming from the road and there appeared to be a no parking sign on the side of the road near where we expected to see this other trailhead. Our guess is that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Department decommissioned the alternate trailhead at some point. The other oddity was that while we did pass the other end of the shortcut trail neither of us noticed another trail joining from the left closer to the headquarters which would have been the other end of the trail that had split off at the edge of the field with the bird houses. There was even a map at the trailhead showing such a trail. Possibly another recent change (or we both just missed the connector trail).
Trail map at the trailhead.

The Garmin map shows the shortcut, spur to the old trailhead, and the other connector as well as some different locations for the trails.

Between exploring the cabin and briefly going the wrong way our hike here came in at an even 4-miles with only 50′ of elevation gain. Given the 4-mile figure the 3.79 miles listed on the refuge webpage for the Willard Springs Trail is probably the most accurate of the distance we came across. We didn’t see any other people, just a lot of wildlife which made for a great first stop of the day.

After finishing at Conboy Lake we drove back south to the Buck Creek Trailhead #1.

This is one of several trailheads located along the roughly 21-mile Buck Creek Trail loop. We had hiked a segment of the Buck Creek Trail in 2020 on our Monte Carlo – Monte Cristo Loop (post). Today’s segment would be a roughly 4.2 mile climb to a former lookout site atop Nestor (Nester) Peak. We picked up the trail on West side of N-1000 across from the trailhead.

It was later in the morning than we usually get started due to visiting Conboy Lake first and even though it was a little before 10:30am it was already feeling a little warm. The trail made a steep initial ascent before leveling off a bit.

There were lots of phantom orchids blooming along the lower sections of the hike.

Thimbleberry

Spotted coralroot was also plentiful.

Wallflower

Near the 3/4-mile mark we recrossed N-1000.

The trail actually lost some elevation here as it descended toward N-1300.

The trail ran parallel to N-1300 for a mile before again turning steeply uphill.
One of only two trees that were down over the trail, both were easily manageable.

The one small stream crossing.

There was enough sunlight getting through to really heat up the trail.

While there wasn’t much there we did occasionally see poison oak throughout most of the lower 2/3rds of the hike.

After the trail steepened we passed a spring on the right at the first of three switchbacks.

Sign above the switchbacks warning mountain bikers that they were ahead.

Following a fourth switchback the trail came to another dirt road which we jogged slightly right on before finding the continuation of the Buck Creek Trail.

Buck Creek Trail to the left near the roads end.

For the next half mile the trail climbed at a healthy pace. Heather hadn’t been feeling well and the heat wasn’t helping things. We talked it over and she told me to go ahead and she would go at her own pace so we split up for now.

More spotted coralroot.

Just over a half mile from the road crossing the trail crossed another road.

After another initial steep climb the trail relented a bit as it traversed around a ridge before gaining a ridgetop and following down to a saddle below Nestor Peak. Along the way were a couple of openings hosting bright wildflowers.

Vanilla leaf

Queen’s cup

Anemone

Lupine

Mt. Hood from the Buck Creek Trail.

Mt. Hood

Cedar hairstreak on yarrow.

Paintbrush, lupine, penstemon, and balsamroot.

Moth

Penstemon

Gaining the ridge.

Paintbrush

Showy phlox

The trail dropped off the ridge and started another good climb along a hillside to a ridge end where it turned steeply uphill climbing to road N-1600 a tenth of a mile below the summit of Nestor Peak.
Approaching the start of the final climb.

Sub-alpine mariposa lily

Showy phlox

Road N-1600.

A right turn on the road led past more wildflowers with a view of Mt. Hood to the remains of a shed on top of Nestor Peak.

At the summit Mt. Adams came into view to the NE.

I took a break at the summit and followed some butterflies around trying to get pictures. While I was busy chasing butterflies Heather messaged to let me know she was at the start of the final climb so I waited for her at the summit.

Unfortunate amount of graffiti on the old shed.

Mt. Hood and balsamroot.

Mt. Hood

Oregon sunshine

Boisduval blues

Duskywing

Balsamroot

Moths

Moth

Lupine

Butterfly on cat’s ear lily.

Woodland stars

Paintbrush

After Heather got a break too, we headed back down. There was a little bit of a breeze as we went down which combined with going downhill instead of up helped it feel cooler on the way down.

Blue-head gilia

Ookow

Winecup clarkia

Mountain lady slipper

The hike here would have been between 8 and 8.5 miles but I wandered around the summit area enough to log 8.9 miles on the GPS unit.

We passed 8 others on the trail (3 hikers and 6 mountain bikers) and saw another mountain biker on Road N-1600 from the summit. It was a nice hike but it would have been a little more enjoyable in cooler temperatures. The views and wildflowers were great though. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Conboy Lake WLFR and Nestor Peak

Tags Buck Creek Trail, Buck Creek Trailhead #1, Conboy Lake, Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge, hiking, Mt. Adams, Nestor Peak, Sandhill Crane, Washington, Whitcomb-Cole Cabin, Willard Springs, Willard Springs Trail