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Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam – 06/16/2023

For the final day of hiking on our vacation we had two of Sullivan’s featured hikes on tap, Hells Canyon Reservoir and Hells Canyon Dam. We left our motel in Enterprise and drove the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to Oxbow. Our first stop was at Copper Creek where a short hike would take us into the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
IMG_1610The smoke that had moved in the day before was still around.

A small post directed us to the trail.
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The next post read “Trail Not Maintained Hazards May Exist”
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We weren’t sure what to expect, but we hoped it wouldn’t be another poison ivy filled hike like Wednesday’s hike at Eureka Bar (post) and that we would at least be able to make it to McGraw Creek which was 1.8 miles away.

IMG_1615Toadflax

A short distance from the trailhead we entered a signed wilderness study area.
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IMG_1621Fleabane

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IMG_1638There were lots of fish visible in the reservoir.

The tread on the trail wasn’t great but poison ivy wasn’t an issue which was nice.
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IMG_1643Penstemon

IMG_1649Showy milkweed

After approximately three quarters of a mile we entered the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
Hells Canyon Wilderness Boundary

At the 0.9-mile mark we crossed Nelson Creek.
IMG_1658Approaching Nelson Creek.

IMG_1660Nelson Creek

Red-eyed vireoRed-eyed vireo

IMG_1672Looking up Nelson Creek.

IMG_1676More fish.

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IMG_1686Lazuli bunting

We made it to the outwash plain of McGraw Creek where the trail turned inland.
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We made it another 100 yards before coming to a missing section of trail.
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We weren’t comfortable with trying to continue. There was a faint path climbing uphill that might have taken us past the missing section but we didn’t feel the need to push it and turned around.
IMG_1698McGraw Creek

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IMG_1710Lizard

IMG_1718Common wood nymph

IMG_1721Moth

Cabbage whitesCabbage whites

IMG_1735Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_1741Copper Creek Trailhead from the trail.

After completing our hike here we drove back to Oxbow and crossed the Snake River into Idaho and headed north to the Hells Canyon Dam. Sullivan’s featured hike here includes two separate options, a 2.4 mile hike to a beach just beyond Stud Creek on the Oregon side of the river and a shorter hike on the Idaho side on the Deep Creek Stairway Trail. This is the only featured hike located in the state of Idaho and we had planned to do this hike first, but the trailhead parking lot was busy with fishermen heading toward the trail. The trail consists of a series of metal stairs and catwalks leading down to the bottom of the dam near Deep Creek and we weren’t too keen on being in a crowd so we drove on across the dam to the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor Center.
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The trail here starts near the boat ramp where an interpretive sign announces the former site of a prehistoric pit house.
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IMG_1755The start of the trail.

This trail was in better shape than the one along Hells Canyon Reservoir, but it was a wild mix of wooden stairs, rocky cliffs, and scenic viewpoints.
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IMG_1761Penstemon

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IMG_1788Western clematis

IMG_1791We watched an osprey dive for a fish in the river.

IMG_1792It pulled a small fish out of the water.

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IMG_1805Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_1820Rafters that had set off from the dam.

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20230616_110757Ant in a sagebrush mariposa lily.

IMG_1832Monkeyflower and heart-leaved bittercress

IMG_1834View near Stud Creek.

We didn’t see any water in Stud Creek’s outwash plain but there were a number of differently colored mariposa lilies.
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Our turnaround point was a white cobble beach where fish occasionally jumped.
IMG_1850Cobble Beach near Stud Creek

IMG_1852Jet boat passing by.

After a short break we returned to the visitor center which we checked out before driving back across the dam.
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IMG_1898Interpretive sign near the visitors center.

IMG_1899Hells Canyon Creek

IMG_1905View from the visitors center.

We were still hoping to stop a the Deep Creek Stairway Trail and as luck would have it all but one of the cars that had been at the trailhead when we drove by earlier were gone.
IMG_1908The empty trailhead parking area.

A short road walk led us to the start of the trail.
IMG_1912The structure on the right is an old fish trap.

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IMG_1917This was only our second hike in Idaho (Jump Creek Falls was the first), and the first in one of Idaho’s National Forests.

IMG_1919The Payette National Forest manages this trail.

The trail began by heading briefly down a staircase and then climbing another set of stairs.
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IMG_1927Going up.

IMG_1930Snake River from the trail.

IMG_1931Going back down.

IMG_1934There were a couple of dirt/rock sections, but the trail was mostly metal stairs and catwalks.

We passed the owner of the remaining car, Ahmed, heading up with a pair of good-sized fish.
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IMG_1938Ahmed’s fishing pole was still out, and you might notice a little red to the left of the structure ahead.

Heather decided not to go all the way down to Deep Creek but I wanted to see it so I followed the trail to its bank.
IMG_1941There was a very short scramble to get up to the continuation of the trail above the structure along the creek.

IMG_1943A few patches of snow in the Payette National Forest.

IMG_1945Deep Creek

I was greeted at the creek by a rock covered with different butterflies.
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It was a hot, tiring climb back up to the car where we changed, grabbed some drinks and snacks, and got ready to drive to Pendleton where we would spend the night before driving back home.
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These three hikes came in at 3.7, 2.6, and 1.0 mile respectively. Hells Canyon Reservoir had over 500′ of elevation gain while the final two were under 200′ although the staircase felt like more.

We were thankful that poison ivy was a non-issue on these hikes. They were all enjoyable but given the rough condition of the Hells Canyon Reservoir Trail we wouldn’t recommend that one for kids or inexperienced hikers.

With the vacation hikes now over, we had made just a little progress on finishing 100 featured hikes from one of Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon guidebook editions (post). We had been at 79/100 heading into the vacation whith plans on completing six more but our decision to skip Dug Bar and change the edition that we were focused on meant adding five featured hikes that we hadn’t done and losing a couple that we had. Instead of sitting at 85/100 at the end of the vacation we are currently at 80/100. We’ve already worked the five new featured hikes into our plans over the next 18 months so we are still on track to be finished by the end of 2024. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Buckhorn Lookout – 06/15/2023

We had spent Wednesday wading through poison ivy along the Imnaha River on our way to Eureka Bar (post). Thursday’s hike promised to involve a lot less poison ivy even though the trailhead was less than four miles as the crow flies from the Cow Creek Trailhead where we’d parked the day before. This was because we would be starting over 4000′ higher in elevation at Buckhorn Lookout.

Before we made it to the lookout we stopped to watch a small herd of elk cross the road and run up a hillside.
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IMG_0820At least one bull in the herd.

We parked at the lookout and checked out the view there first then walked back along the road 0.2-miles and turned right on Forest Road 780 for another 1.2-miles to a gate.
IMG_0824Buckhorn Lookout

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IMG_0835Hells Canyon

IMG_0833Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0826Pale paintbrush

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IMG_0849Larkspur, lupine, and northern mules ears.

IMG_0855Prairie smoke a.k.a. old man’s whiskers

20230615_062721Purple sticky geranium

IMG_0872Paintbrush

IMG_0877Parsley, larkspur, large flower triteleia, and Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0879Phlox

IMG_0882We could have driven the 1.2-miles on FR 780 to the gate but the road was not in good shape and after driving to Eureka Bar the day before we weren’t interested in another rough road.

20230615_063649Mallow ninebark

IMG_0900Arnica

20230615_064123Large flower triteleia

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IMG_0959Gate at the end of the road.

IMG_0960Marker for the Nez Perce – Nee-Mee-Poo National Historic Trail.

The trail followed an old roadbed downhill 7.6-miles to Eureka Bar, but our plan was to go just 3.6-miles to what Sullivan refers to as the “Eureka Viewpoint”. The entire route was lined with wildflowers. The mixture and types changed as we lost elevation, over 1780′ in all, to the viewpoint.
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20230615_071903Columbian lewisia

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IMG_0978Seven Devils in Idaho

IMG_0982Lupine, yarrow, buckwheat, and scarlet gilia

20230615_072846Scarlet gilia

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IMG_1010Elkhorn clarkia a.k.a. ragged robin

IMG_1015Another impressive scarlet gilia.

IMG_1018Paintbrush, lupine, phacelia, thistle, and scarlet gilia

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20230615_074140Penstemon

IMG_1034A phlox

IMG_1035Scabland penstemon

IMG_1046Threadleaf phacelia

20230615_074846Penstemon

IMG_1054Paintbrush

IMG_1065Lark sparrow

IMG_1075Cedar waxwing

IMG_1078Elkhorn clarkia

IMG_1086Wallflower

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IMG_1099Skullcap

IMG_1102Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_1105Monkeyflower and some tiny white flowers near a seep.

IMG_1116Buckwheat

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Mylitta crescentMylitta crescent

IMG_1135Rough eyelashweed

IMG_1138Looking back up the trail.

IMG_1146At Spain Saddle the road switched to the opposite side of the ridge.

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IMG_1155Bush penstemon

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IMG_1159Another type of penstemon

White spiraeaWhite spiraea

Manyflower tonellaManyflower tonella

IMG_1176Owl’s clover

Six tenths of a mile from Spain Saddle we detoured left along a fence to a viewpoint.
IMG_1174The viewpoint on the far side of the fence.

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IMG_1184Boat on the Snake River.

IMG_1190Salsify

We continued on from the first viewpoint and wound up having to yield the trail to a few cows that were being herded up the trail. After the cowgirl convinced them it was safe to pass by us we resumed our downhill hike.
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IMG_1200Bindweed

IMG_1205Thistle with bugs.

IMG_1210Clouds moving in behind us.

IMG_1216Prickly pear cactus

IMG_1218The only poison ivy we saw all hike.

IMG_1227Eureka Viewpoint ahead to the left.

Hairy goldenasterHairy goldenaster

IMG_1233Fleabane

IMG_1239Eureka Viewpoint

IMG_1240Looking back

IMG_1254Looking down

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IMG_1245Clustered broomrape

The most exciting part of Eureka Viewpoint wasn’t the view. It was finding some prickly pear cactus in bloom.
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As for the view the three small portions of the Snake River was visible below.
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IMG_1287A very small part of the river is visible to the left and more to right.

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As we rested at the viewpoint we got to looking around and realized that there was a common nighthawk sleeping on a nearby fence post.
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After a good break we began the long climb back to the lookout. The forecast had been for mostly sunny skies but it had grown increasingly hazy all day and there were now even more clouds converging overhead. It didn’t rain so the cloud cover was welcome as it kept the temperature from getting too high. The haze, which was smoke from wildfires was more problematic as it really hindered the views and by the time we’d reached the lookout we couldn’t see nearly as much as we had that morning.
IMG_1344Here come the clouds.

IMG_1360We spotted a rock arch on the way up that we’d missed earlier.

IMG_1362A closer look at the arch.

IMG_1387Common wood nymph

IMG_1398Spotted towhee

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IMG_1413Northern flicker

IMG_1428The only time we noticed the Imnaha River from the trail.

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IMG_1470Butterfly near the seep.

IMG_1481Mountain parnassian on yarrow.

IMG_1487A painted lady butterfly.

IMG_1494Chipping sparrow

IMG_1511We could actually smell a little smoke at times on the way back.

IMG_1518Tiny trumpet

IMG_1522Hound’s tongue and roses

Cassin's finchCassin’s finch

IMG_1544Western bluebird

IMG_1549Western tanager

IMG_1557Western wood peewee

Hairy Indian paintbrushHairy Indian paintbrush

IMG_1593Hoary balsamroot

IMG_1598Mountain bluebird

IMG_1595The view in the afternoon from the lookout.

This wound up being our favorite hike of the trip despite the views not being as clear as we would have liked, and is one we would certainly revisit given the chance. We’re pretty sure we saw at least 50 different species of wildflowers and the views were good even with the smoke and clouds. Round trip was 10.8 miles with almost 1800′ of elevation gain, almost entirely on the way back.

After driving back to Enterprise we cleaned up and headed to Terminal Gravity Brewing for a nice dinner with a view of the Wallowa Mountains. The next morning we would be leaving Enterprise and heading for Pendleton via the long way around the Wallowas so we could make three stops along the Snake River. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Buckhorn Lookout

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Eureka Bar – 06/14/2023

When I first planned out our trip to Enterprise it included five featured hikes that we’d yet to do: Buckhorn Lookout, Eureka Bar, Dug Bar, Hat Point, and Imnaha Falls. During the weeks leading up to this trip we removed Hat Point due to conflicting information on the status of Hat Point Road. Sullivan’s trail updates listed the road as closed until Summer 2023 and the Forest Service pages listed the Day Use Area as closed but the trailhead as open. I tried reaching out to the USFS for clarification, but they never responded so we swapped that hike with a planned 2024 visit to Hells Creek Reservoir and Dam (two featured hikes).

The next change came when we decided to try and combine Eureka Bar and Dug Bar into a single day versus an overnight stay at Dug Bar. The original plan was to do a 10-mile hike at Eureka Bar then drive to Dug Bar where we could tent camp and do an 8.6-mile hike to Deep Creek the next day before driving back to Enterprise. This was due to the reportedly poor road conditions between Imnaha and the Cow Creek Trailhead (Eureka Bar hike) and even worse road between the Cow Creek Trailhead to Dug Bar. These 15-mile and 11.4-mile stretches of road were said to take a full hour each to drive so why drive the first stretch twice if we didn’t have to. Re-reading the description of the Dug Bar hike in preperation for the trip caused me to rethink this plan since Sullivan’s description of the Dug Bar hike included a one-mile stretch of trail wading through patches of poison ivy. He listed a shorter 1.2-mile option stopping at a viewpoint after only 0.6 miles which sounded much more appealing. This would also be short enough to add to the 10ish miles at Eureka Bar and still be a manageable distance for a single day.

With the new plan in place we left Enterprise and headed for the Cow Creek Trailhead. The road was pretty much as advertised taking an hour to get between Imnaha and the trailhead. The first mile was by far the worst section, but the entire 15-miles were tedious.
IMG_0375Cow Creek Bridge at the Cow Creek Trailhead.

IMG_0378Garbage can at the trailhead.

Before we even set out we were having doubts about Dug Bar. When we arrived there was a herd of cows being driven down Dug Bar Road and a van with bicycles on the far side of the Imnaha River. Driving that road already wasn’t appealing and the idea of encountering cattle or cyclists didn’t make it any better. That was a problem for later though and we set off on a faint trail heading for a trail sign in the distance.
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At the sign we turned right on the Imnaha Trail.
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We followed this trail 4.2 miles to the Snake River at Eureka Bar. Sullivan mentioned stepping around poison ivy that, along with blackberry bushes, often crowded the trail. As it turned out the brush didn’t just crowd the trail, it had taken over the trail in places. We hacked our way through the non-poison ivy vegetation and relied on our long pants to keep the sea of poison ivy at bay.
IMG_0392Penstemon along the trail.

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IMG_0410Geese on the river.

IMG_0411Cliff swallows

20230614_071938Moth mullein

IMG_0417Hawk

IMG_0433Showy milkweed

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IMG_0447Prickly pear cactus

IMG_0454Heading into a brushy area.

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IMG_0467Rose

IMG_0472Lorquin’s admiral

We were on the lookout for rattlesnakes but didn’t see any (until one crossed the road on the drive back to Enterprise), but I did see three of what I believe were rubber boas.
IMG_0476Can you spot the snake?

IMG_0478The snake heading off the rocks into the brush.

While we fortunately didn’t encounter too many snakes there were hundreds of large crickets.
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IMG_0484I cleared this section of trail.

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IMG_0493Sumac along the trail.

IMG_0499The only marker that Sullivan mentioned along the trail was this pillar on the right at the 2.8-mile mark.

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Painted ladyPainted lady

20230614_094112St. John’s wort and poison ivy.

IMG_0525Skullcap

Becker's whiteBecker’s white

IMG_0538Our first view of the Snake River.

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IMG_0549One of several reminders of the mining town at Eureka Bar in the early 1900’s.

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IMG_0543The Mountain Chief Mine across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0557The Snake River

IMG_0554Chuckar in the brush across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0567Eureka Bar

We followed the trail along the Snake River to a trail post near Eureka Creek. At one time 2000 people lived in this area but after a sternwheeler carrying machinery for a gold processing mill crashed and sank, investors pulled out and the town disappeared.
IMG_0577Skipper on common bugloss.

IMG_0591Imnaha River emptying into the Snake.

IMG_0595Blanketflower

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IMG_0599Bindweed

IMG_0610Sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101814Another sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101958Fleabane

IMG_0620Stones where the gold processing mill was going to be.

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IMG_0647Long-leaved ground-cherry (Physalis longifolia)

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IMG_0652Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0655Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0667Our turnaround point.

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IMG_0675Another mariposa lily

IMG_0677Ruins at Eureka Bar.

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IMG_0678Common merganser

We returned the way we’d come. It felt like there was somehow more poison ivy on the way back.
IMG_0698A prickly pear cactus near Eureka Bar.

IMG_0726Green cricket on poison ivy.

IMG_0750Lazuli bunting

IMG_0757Mourning cloak

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IMG_0800We missed all of these prickly pear cacti on the first pass.

IMG_0814Arriving back at Dug Bar Road.

This hike ended up being 10.8 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

On the way back to the trailhead we decided that we would not be doing Dug Bar on this day. It was already hot and we’d had enough of the poison ivy. It was also later than we’d expected due to slower hiking caused by the brushy trail. Sullivan had also removed Dug Bar from the featured hikes in his most recent “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook so we could switch editions and not have to make it back in order to complete our 100 hike goal. Making that switch did mean that there were several other hikes that we’d done that were now no longer featured hikes and we’d have to add some new ones to our plans over the next year and a half to still be on track to finish by the end of 2024.

We wiped off our poles and clothes as best as we could and hoped that we had managed to avoid any exposure to the poison ivy. As of Monday the 19th we both seem to be in the clear. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Eureka Bar

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site – 06/13/2023

After Monday’s round of afternoon/evening thunderstorms we wanted to make sure we weren’t out hiking during Tuesday’s forecasted storms. We had decided to play it safe and make Tuesday a light hiking day mixed with some sightseeing in Joseph, OR. We had hoped to start with breakfast from Sugar Time Bakery but it wound up being closed all week so we ate in the room and then drove to Joseph and parked at the Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site.

A short series of trails here offer views of the Wallowa Mountains and sits adjacent to the National Park Service’s Old Chief Joseph Gravesite.
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The trail set off uphill gaining views of the mountains.
IMG_0235Lupine along the trail.

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IMG_0249Interpretive sign along the trail.

IMG_0253Second from the left is Dug Peak, the pointy peak is Sawtooth Peak, and the round peak to the right is Hurricane Point.

IMG_0255The trail descended from the hill and leveled out along some trees.

IMG_0269Yellow warbler

IMG_0270Brown-headed cowbirds

The trail split near Knight’s Pond where we turned left and crossed Silver Lake Ditch.
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On the far side of the ditch we spotted a couple of bucks on the hillside.
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The trail climbed again past a bench then descended to another parking area along Highway 351.
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IMG_0286Hounds tongue

IMG_0287Death camas

IMG_0292Oregon sunshine

IMG_0296Bench with a view of Point Joseph behind.

IMG_0300Sunflowers yet to bloom.

IMG_0307Fiddleneck

IMG_0309Descending to the highway.

We followed a bike/pedestrian path along the highway for a tenth of a mile to the entrance to the Nez Perce National Historic Park Cemetery.
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IMG_0316Old Chief Joseph’s gravesite. His original grave near Wallowa, OR had been looted twice before he was moved here in 1926.

IMG_0321Wallowa Lake beyond the gravesite of Martha and Frank David McCully.

After paying our respects we returned to the Iwetemlaykin Heritage Area and returned to the junction near Knight’s Pond where we turned left past a beautiful reflection.
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IMG_0338A sightseeing robin.

IMG_0340Butterfly on the trail.

IMG_0344Western stoneseed

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Before looping around the pond and returning to our car we detoured on a spur trail to Farmer’s Ditch at the South Main Street Entrance.
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IMG_0353Farmer’s Ditch

IMG_0354View from the South Main Street Entrance.

IMG_0357Passing back by Knight’s Pond.

IMG_0374Some uplift action on the clouds from the trailhead.

This was a 2.5-mile hike with maybe 200′ of elevation gain. We saw lots of birds and three deer during our outing and had some wonderful mountain views.

It was just a little after 9am when we finished so we drove back into downtown Joseph and parked at a public lot. We figured most places wouldn’t be open until 10am but we thought we could walk around and see what was there and enjoy the numerous art pieces around town in the meantime. Little did we realize that many (most) stores and restaurants were closed on Tuesday’s including the Wallowa County Museum. The lack of open storefronts combined with a bunch of sidewalk construction taking place cut our sightseeing short. Instead we drove back to our room in Enterprise and relaxed for a few hours before heading back to Joseph in the afternoon for an early dinner at Embers Brew House which was open on Tuesdays. Not quite the way we’d imagined the day going but we made it work and felt refreshed ahead of what promised to be the most stressful drive/hike(s) of our trip on Wednesday. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Area

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Imnaha Falls – 06/12/2023

Our arrival in Enterprise coincided with the arrival of a couple of days with forecasted afternoon thunder storms. We did some rearraigning of the order of our hikes to avoid the storms and decided on Imnaha Falls as our Monday hike. We began at the Indian Crossing Trailhead located in the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.
IMG_9800Indian Crossing Trailhead

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IMG_9798Imnaha River at the trailhead.

There were quite a few wildflowers blooming at the trailhead.
Jessica's stickseedJessica’s stickseed

IMG_9801Hooked spur violet

IMG_9803Woodland star

IMG_9804Valerian

IMG_9805Arnica

We took the South Fork Imnaha Trail #1816 following pointers for Blue Hole and Twin Lakes.
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IMG_9809Violets

IMG_9823We passed a pack station in the forest on our right.

IMG_9815Ballhead waterleaf

IMG_9830Lupine along the trail

IMG_9835Anemone

IMG_9836Western meadowrue

We passed a trail sign at junction with a spur trail joining from the pack station and soon after we entered the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
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IMG_9851Paintbrush along the trail.

IMG_9853Larkspur, lupine, and Jessica’s stickseed

After three quarters of a mile we entered a previously burned forest where the views opened up some.
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IMG_9861Chipmunk

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IMG_9864A nice patch of lupine.

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IMG_9872Snow patches high up on the ridge.

IMG_9876The Imnaha River below the trail.

IMG_9877One of many small unnamed stream crossings.

IMG_9882Large-flower triteleia

IMG_9884A ponderosa pine that survived the fire.

IMG_9887Robin

IMG_9891One of several types of penstemon along the trail.

IMG_9892We were just sure that there should be elk, deer, or a bear down along the river here.

IMG_9896There were quite a few of these millipedes in the trail.

IMG_9901In some cases the creeks had taken over the trail.

IMG_9905Cinquefoil

IMG_9907A brushy section of the trail.

IMG_9908Tall bluebells

IMG_9912Two-tailed tiger swallowtail

At the two-mile mark we came to a signed junction for Twin Lakes Trail and Blue Hole where we detoured left.
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We followed this trail downhill for a tenth of a mile to an impassable ford of the Imnaha River just below the Blue Hole.
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The river was running high still so we couldn’t get a view of Blue Hole from the ford. Instead we climbed the rocks which squeeze the river through a narrow gorge before it empties into Blue Hole.
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IMG_9925Blue Hole, not exactly blue this time of year due to the amount of silty snowmelt water swelling the river.

IMG_9929Wildflowers above the gorge.

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IMG_9941The Imnaha emerging from the gorge into Blue Hole.

After a nice break at Blue Hole we returned to the South Fork Imnaha Trail and continued further into the wilderness.
IMG_9947Arnica along the trail.

IMG_9948Coming up on a small stand of aspen.

IMG_9955A rockcress

IMG_9961Juba skipper

IMG_9963Roundleaf alumroot

Painted ladyPainted lady on Oregon sunshine.

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IMG_9979Glacier carved rock outcrops provided some excellent views and good habitat for wildflowers.

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IMG_9989Scabland penstemon

IMG_0004Paintbrush

IMG_0012Not a flower but very colorful.

IMG_0018Bush penstemon

IMG_0020Western tanager

IMG_0021Western blue clematis

IMG_0025Brown creeper on a tree trunk.

IMG_0032Left is Marble Mountain and to the right further back is Honeymoon Summit.

IMG_0040Larkspur along the trail.

Heartleaf springbeautyHeartleaf springbeauty

IMG_0048Another flooded section of a the trail.

IMG_0049Western tiger swallowtails on chokecherry.

Dreamy duskywingDreamy duskywing

IMG_0056Threeleaf lewisia

IMG_0065We were too late for the Brown’s peony blooms.

IMG_0068Balsamroot and paintbrush

Three and a third miles beyond the Twin Lakes Trail junction we left the trail to see another gorge.
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IMG_0082On the opposite side, with a series of drops, is Rock Creek flowing into the Imnaha.

IMG_0074The Imnaha River leaving the gorge.

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IMG_0093Rock Creek cascading down through the forest.

After another short break we returned to the trail and continued another third of a mile where we left the trail again to find Imnaha Falls.
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IMG_0101Another creek cascading down.

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IMG_0103Marble Mountain

IMG_0111Twinberry honeysuckle

Marsh violetMarsh violet

IMG_0115Rock outcrop above Imnaha Falls

The 8′ Imnaha Falls was difficult to get a good view of. There was a large gap in the rocks that I eventually had to climb down into and out of to get to the edge of the rock outcrop above the river.
IMG_0119I tried going down river first to see if I could get a view back up to the falls, but the water level was into the brush along the riverbank.

IMG_0123The falls were just upriver from this bench with a couple of campsites.

IMG_0134The gap in the outcrop.

IMG_0126Imnaha Falls.

The falls were more of a rapids which might have been caused by the volume of water this time of year.
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We took a final break on the rocks here and then headed back toward the trailhead. We kept a lookout for any flowers we’d missed on the first pass.
Utah honeysuckleUtah honeysuckle

IMG_0150

IMG_0167Bee on a dandelion

IMG_0177Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_0178Slender phlox

IMG_0182Silverleaf phacelia

IMG_0191Vetch

IMG_0194
Diffuse-flower evening-primrose surrounded by blue-eyed Mary.

IMG_0203Osprey, the fishing here must have been good because we’d seen a bald eagle in this area in the morning.

IMG_0217Fairy slipper

IMG_0223Arriving back at the trailhead.

We saw three other people on the return to the trailhead. The first gentleman we encountered asked us how far it was to the lakes. He’d already passed the Twin Lakes Trail, not that he could have forded the river there, and the next closest lake was probably Fish Lake which was a good 7-8 miles away. We let him know that there weren’t any lakes nearby but that Imnaha Falls was a couple of miles further along the trail. He didn’t have much with him but he continued on after looking at the gathering clouds and saying he thought he had time to make it there. The next couple we passed after Blue Hole and they didn’t appear to be carrying any type of food, water, or gear. The number of unprepared and uninformed people we pass on trails really makes us wonder how there aren’t more rescues/deaths every year.

Our hike came in at 12.2 miles due to some extra exploring along the river with approximately 800′ of elevation gain.

We drove back to Enterprise, got cleaned up, and headed out for an early dinner. When we opened the motel room door we were greeted by a heavy rain shower. We had planned on eating at Terminal Gravity Brewing but when we got out of the car a lightning bolt immediately followed by thunder convinced us that outdoor dining was not a good idea at the moment. We decided to save Terminal Gravity for later in the week and instead got some tasty Pad Thai to go from Thai Enterprise and took it back to our room where we listened to the evening thunderstorms roll past.

Tuesday’s forecast was for more of the same with a slightly higher chance for showers so we’d planned to do a short hike in the morning followed by some time sightseeing in Joseph. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Imnaha Falls

Categories
Blue Mountains - North Hiking Oregon Trip report

Hat Rock State Park to McNary Beach – 06/11/2023

We used our second extended vacation of the year to continue our quest to complete 100 featured hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” edition 3rd edtion (post). Heading into 2023 we had done 79 out of the 100 featured hikes and had planned to check off five more on this trip to Enterprise, OR. On the way to Enterprise, a 7 1/2-hour drive from Salem, we stopped at Hat Rock State Park. We had originally planned for this stop to be a quick leg stretcher and just hike the mile loop passing Hat Rock, but a couple of late changes to our planned hikes for the remainder of the week reduced our milage so we extended our visit by hiking the Lewis and Clark Commemorative Trail to McNary Beach. This was not one of Sullivan’s featured hikes but the Lewis and Clark Trail is covered in his additional hikes under the Columbia River Railroad.

There are several large parking areas in the park and we wound up parking near the picnic area.
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We took a paved trail on the opposite side of the parking lot from the picnic area which climbed up to another parking lot and trailhead.
IMG_9600

IMG_9788The parking area at the trailhead.

IMG_9601Signboards at the trailhead.

IMG_9607Trail map.

We headed counterclockwise on the loop which quickly brought us to Hat Rock.
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IMG_9611

The basalt feature is part of the Columbia Basalt eruptions, a series of lava flows that left basalt a mile thick in some places.
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We continued on the loop detouring to a bench overlooking a pond.
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Beyond the viewpoint the trail descended to a junction along the pond. Here we turned right which took us across a footbridge to a boat ramp.
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IMG_9626

IMG_9629Lake Wallula from the footbridge.

We crossed the parking lot at the boat ramp to a continuation of the trail which led uphill to the Lewis and Clark Commemorative Trail.
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Eastern kingbirdEastern kingbird near the boat ramp.

IMG_9643Post ahead marking the junction with the Lewis and Clark Trail. There is also a deer below the cliffs ahead.

IMG_9645Zooming in on the doe.

We turned right on the Lewis and Clark Trail. The former railroad grade follows the shore of Lake Wallula on the Columbia River. The lake is created by the McNary Dam which was visible near the western end of the trail near McNary Beach.
IMG_9648

IMG_9651Lake Wallula

We followed the trail a total of 4.8 miles to McNary Beach where we took a short break at a shaded picnic table. While the scenery didn’t change much the views were good and there were lots of birds along the way filling the air with their songs.
IMG_9655Raven with an egg it had snatched from some other bird.

IMG_9658Broad-leaved pepperweed (invasive)

IMG_9661Initially there were some houses on the left, but they gave way to the Wanaket Wildlife Area.

IMG_9665Most of the balsamroot was long past done but a few late blooms remained.

IMG_9666Dove

IMG_9667A fleabane

IMG_9670

SwallowSwallow

IMG_9674Patterns on Lake Wallula

IMG_9675Western meadowlark signing from atop the cliffs.

IMG_9681Sign for the Wanaket Wildlife Area

Lark sparrowLark sparrow

IMG_9694Box Canyon

IMG_9700There were a couple of small hills but over all very little elevation gain.

IMG_9701Another western meadowlark.

IMG_9706Cormorant

IMG_9723

IMG_9721Mallard

IMG_9729Showy milkweed and a bunch of bees.

IMG_9734Trail sign near McNary Beach

IMG_9736Our rest stop.

We returned to Hat Rock State Park the way we’d come.
Caspian ternCaspian tern

IMG_9746Hawk

Gray hairstreakGray hairstreak on tall tumblemustard

IMG_9766

Becker's whiteBecker’s white also on tall tumblemustard.

IMG_9775Boat Rock to the left and behind Hat Rock from the Lewis and Clark Trail.

We recrossed the footbridge and followed the path along the pond to complete the loop back to the picnic area.
IMG_9777

IMG_9779

IMG_9782One of these is not like the others.

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We ate lunch at a table in the picnic area before getting back in the car and driving to Enterprise. Our hike here came in at 10.9 miles with approximately 200′ of elevation gain.

The trail is mostly exposed to the Sun so it got a little warm but overall it was a pleasant hike. We only saw a hand full of others on the trails but there were plenty of people at Hat Rock Park itself and a fair number at McNary Beach. This was a good kick-off hike for our trip and we looked forward to more eastern Oregon scenery to come.

Two days after our visit (Tuesday 6/13) the Hat Rock Fire started near the SE corner of the park at the Highway 730/Highway 37 junction. Fortunately the fire spread away from the park. The fire is now 100% contained but it grew to over 16,800 acres before containment occurred. Happy (fire free) Trails!

Flickr: Hat Rock State Park

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Riley Ranch Nature Preserve to Tumalo State Park – 05/29/2023

On our way home from Bend we wanted to get one more hike in and had decided on exploring the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve. There are a little under 3 miles of trail at the Reserve, but a trail along the Deschutes River connects the Reserve with Tumalo State Park making a longer hike possible.

We chose to start at the Reserve trailhead primarily due to Tumalo State Park being a fee park. The Reserve is open sunrise to sunset so we arrived early (5:20am) to try and get a jump on the crowds and our drive home.
IMG_8893

IMG_8895Mt. Bachelor (post) in the morning.

We stopped at the trailhead signboard to finalize our route for the day.
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We planned to stay right on Juniper and Sage Flat Loops and take the Robin’s Run down to the Canyon Loop. For the Canyon Loop we decided to go left first to hike along the Deschutes River to the Tumalo State Park Day Use Area. On our way back we would complete the Canyon Loop and stay right on the Sage Flat and Juniper Loops.
IMG_8903The start of the Juniper Loop.

IMG_8904Similar to the Metro Parks we’ve recently visited there were small maps on the trail pointers here.

IMG_8907Middle and North Sister

We spotted our first deer of the day amid the sagebrush in the distance.
IMG_8911

IMG_8909Blurry shot of the deer.

We detoured 40 yards to the Ben Newkirk Mountain Overlook where we saw a rabbit and some mountains.
IMG_8914

20230529_053544Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top, and the Three Sisters.

IMG_8920Rabbit

IMG_8925Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain (post)

IMG_8926Ball Butte

IMG_8923Broken Top (post)

IMG_8924South Sister (post)

IMG_8921Middle and North Sister

After checking out the overlook we continued on the Juniper Loop and spotted a second rabbitIMG_8930

IMG_8933

IMG_8934We passed by the shared Juniper/Sage Flat Trail and continued on the Sage Flat Loop.

IMG_8936Sageflat Loop

We turned right on the dirt Robin’s Run Trail which led fairly steeply downhill to the Canyon Loop.
IMG_8940

IMG_8944Threadleaf phacelia

IMG_8950

IMG_8951

Turning left on the Canyon Loop quickly brought us to the Deschutes River.
IMG_8960Balsamroot along the Deschutes.

The trail follows the river with occasional “official” river access points marked by posts.
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IMG_8971

IMG_8973

IMG_8974

After 0.4 miles on the Canyon Loop we came to an unmarked spur trail that led to the top of a rock outcrop with a bench.
IMG_8983

IMG_8987Robin

IMG_8988Longhorn plectritis

IMG_8992Blackheaded grosbeak

IMG_8996Heather waited below while I climbed the outcrop.

IMG_8998The bench on top.

IMG_9001The top of the outcrop.

As I headed back down to Heather I encountered a deer about 30 yards from her that she hadn’t seen.
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We continued along the river looking for wildlife and wildflowers.
IMG_9007

IMG_9005Western stoneseed

IMG_9014Larkspur

IMG_9013I spotted something head into the river from the grass on the near bank here.

IMG_9015I spotted the grass moving before the animal below which turned out to be a beaver.

IMG_9022Beaver in the Deschutes River.

We stayed straight when the Canyon Loop turned inland. There are two cabin ruins in this area, one just a bit further along the loop and the other was just ahead on the trail along the river.
IMG_9029We followed the pointer for Tumalo State Park.

IMG_9030Cabin ruins

It was nearly 2 miles from the cabin ruins to the day use area at Tumalo State Park.
IMG_9035

20230529_063805Western wallflower

IMG_9038Lupine

IMG_9039Another river access point.

IMG_9042Rockcress, possibly sicklepod.

IMG_9044The northern boundary of the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve.

IMG_9046

20230529_065558Threadleaf phacelia

IMG_9061

IMG_9074Tumalo Creek (post) flowing into the Deschutes River.

While we were admiring Tumalo Creek we spotted a bird high up in a snag on the far side of the river.
IMG_9083

It turned out to be a Lewis’s woodpecker, one of the prettiest woodpeckers in Oregon.
IMG_9078

IMG_9088Crossing into Tumalo State Park.

One of the neatest features along the trail was a long footbridge crossing over some boulders along the river.
IMG_9092

IMG_9094Magpie

IMG_9098Paintbrush

IMG_9102Mallards

IMG_9105

IMG_9108Penstemon

IMG_9116A quarter of a mile from the day use area we crossed a road leading to a private bridge crossing the river.

IMG_9124Remains of another bridge in the river.

IMG_9125

IMG_9126Tumalo State Park Day Use Area

It was fun to see the day use area. In my school days some friends and I occasionally camped in the park and spent time fishing and swimming in the river.
IMG_9128

IMG_9129

IMG_9132Deschutes River at the day use area.

After reminiscing at the day use area we headed back. We kept our eyes out for more wildlife and were rewarded with a few more species of birds.
IMG_9135Kingfisher on the bridge remains. (A bit blurry due to being a long way off.)

IMG_9139A swallow and a pygmy nuthatch.

Pygmy nuthatch?Pygmy nuthatch

We turned left onto the Canyon Loop and immediately arrived at the other cabin ruins.
IMG_9156

IMG_9157

IMG_9171Bench along the Canyon Loop.

IMG_9175Northern flicker

As we neared the junction with Robin’s Run we could hear a large group of trail runners making their way down.
IMG_9178We were distracted enough by the runners that we failed to notice the deer bedded down to the right of the trail. You can see its ears sticking up here.

We waited at the junction for the group to descend and while we were standing there we finally noticed the deer.
IMG_9185There were at least four deer hanging out here.

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IMG_9183

After the trail runners passed by we climbed back up to the Sage Flat Trail and turned right. After just under 500′ we came to a spur trail to the Canyon Overlook where we made a quick detour.
IMG_9197The Sage Flat Loop Trail.

IMG_9202Spur to the Canyon Overlook.

IMG_9200Death camas

IMG_9209Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain

IMG_9207Mt. Jefferson

We returned to the Sage Flat Loop and continued passing a few Lewis flax blossoms before arriving at another spur trail to the Sage Flat Overlook.
IMG_9212

IMG_9213Lewis flax

IMG_9215Marker for the Sage Flat Overlook.

We skipped this overlook, primarily because I went right when the overlook was to the left but given the time of day we would have been looking directly toward the Sun.
IMG_9218Looking back at where the Sage Flat Overlook was.

Next up was the River Viewpoint which was just off the Sage Flat Loop to the right.
IMG_9220

20230529_090929

IMG_9222

IMG_9226Lizard near the River Viewpoint.

After looking at the river one last time we continued on the Sage Flat Loop which then became the Juniper Loop bringing us back to the trailhead.
20230529_091234The Cascade Mountains

IMG_9236Black Crater (post) and Mt. Washington

IMG_9241Finishing up the Juniper Loop.

Our hike came to 7.3 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

This was a nice, convenient hike to finish off the weekend. The early start allowed us to be finished before 9:30am which put us ahead of the bulk of holiday traffic. We made it home nice and early giving us plenty of time to catch up with the cats. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Riley Ranch Nature Reserve

Categories
Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Criterion Tract – 05/28/2023

Knowing that trails would be busy over the holiday weekend we looked for an option that might provide some solitude and turned to another Matt Reeder hike at BLM managed Criterion Tract (BLM map). Reeder features this hike in his “PDX Hiking 365” guidebook and lists April as the best time to visit. His reasoning is that April to early May is the usually the peak wildflower blooms. With this years blooms running a couple of weeks late we hoped that Memorial Day weekend wouldn’t be too late. I couldn’t find any information other than the map linked above on the BLM website but in addition to Reeder’s entry there is a route featured in the Oregonhikers.org field guide and Sullivan features a route starting along the Deschutes River in his 2022 “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook (not the edition we are using for our quest of his featured hikes).

While there are several possible access points we started at the Criterion North Trailhead.
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IMG_8417Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams from the trailhead which is the high point of the hike.

IMG_8418Mt. Hood

The “trails” here consist of old jeep tracks that are closed to motorized use (other than BLM administrators) and not maintained so some have become faint. We passed through a green gate and onto what the Oregonhikers.org map shows as Criterion Crest Road.
IMG_8424Cattle sometimes graze in the area and the combination of their hooves with the unmaintained roads makes for some pretty rough surfaces.

Reeder has you follow this road for nearly four miles before turning downhill through a gate at a faint 4-way junction. He doesn’t mention any other markers along the way but the road passes under a set of power lines, followed by another gate, then the power lines again, a third gate, and passes an abandoned trailer before reaching the 4-way junction. Mountain views stretched from Mt. Bachelor to the South to Mt. Adams in Washington to the North. We saw plenty of wildflowers and a lot of birds as well as deer and elk sign, but we didn’t see any hooved mammals (including cows thankfully).

IMG_8433Rough-eyelashweed. There was a lot of this blooming along the road.

IMG_8434A couple of lomatiums.

IMG_8444Howell’s milkvetch

IMG_8436Idaho milkvetch

IMG_8443Western meadowlark

IMG_8450A buckwheat

IMG_8454Carey’s balsamroot

IMG_8463Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top and the Three Sisters

IMG_8465Lupine

IMG_8471Bumble bee on Howell’s milkvetch

IMG_8480Lark sparrow

IMG_8496We spent a lot of time heading toward Mt. Hood.

IMG_8503Sparrow?

IMG_8508Mt. Adams

IMG_8514Mt. Hood

IMG_8510We were a little too late for the large-head clover.

IMG_8517Western meadowlark giving a performance.

IMG_8527The third gate with Mt. Hood in the distance.

IMG_8530Yarrow

IMG_8535Phlox

IMG_8540The Deschutes River winding through the valley below.

IMG_8564Rough eyelashweed and lupine with Mt. Hood behind.

20230528_080655Caterpillar

IMG_8572Lupine with Mt. Jefferson in the background.

IMG_8579Horned lark

IMG_8582Mt. Jefferson behind the abandoned trailer.

IMG_8583Mt. Jefferson was hidden at times but this gap in the hills provided a nice view.

IMG_8587Oregon sunshine

IMG_8599Skipper

IMG_8602Mt. Jefferson and Olallie Butte (post) behind the lupine.

IMG_8605A small watering hole.

Acmon blue?Leaning toward an Acmon blue but not sure.

IMG_8626Another in the Lycaenidae family.

Large marbleLarge marble on a fiddleneck.

IMG_8648The fourth gate at the 4-way junction.

IMG_8650Mourning dove

We took a short break by the gate before passing through. As we descended on the jeep track we came to a split where the clearer track curved to the left while a faint track headed straight downhill through a field of balsamroot. Reeder’s map showed his route was along the fainter track so we stayed straight.
IMG_8656The more “obvious” jeep track curving left.

IMG_8657The fainter track angling slightly right.

We were a couple of weeks late for the peak balsamroot bloom, but there were enough remaining blooms/petals to color the hillside yellow.
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IMG_8668Ochre ringlet on rougheyelashweed.

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We soon rejoined the other jeep track where we turned right.
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The terrain had leveled out and we continued on the track watching for Stag Point, a knoll with a post on top, which was Reeder’s turn around point.
IMG_8679Zerene fritillary

IMG_8682Zerene fritillary on salsify

IMG_8684We thought we spied the post and used the camera to zoom in and confirm.

IMG_8685This was the only knoll with a juniper as well as the post.

Largeflower hawksbeardLargeflower hawksbeard

IMG_8706Paintbrush

IMG_8708To reach Stag Point we had to go cross country, so we looked for the most gradual looking climb.

IMG_8715

IMG_8718Mt. Hood from Stag Point.

IMG_8719The Deschutes River from Stag Point.

The view was good from Stag Point, but we were hoping to see more of the river and decided to do a little more cross country exploring by heading SE along the rim from Stag Point to a promising looking rock outcrop.
IMG_8720Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams from Stag Point.

IMG_8721Looking back over the route we’d come down.

IMG_8727Ladybug and an Oregon swallowtail.

IMG_8729Desert yellow fleabane

IMG_8732Heading out to the rock outcrop.

IMG_8733Mt. Hood and Stag Point from the outcrop.

IMG_8738A better view of the Deschutes.

IMG_8743Mt. Hood beyond the cliffs.

IMG_8746A buckwheat

Satisfied now with the view we took a short break on the outcrop before heading back. We made our way back to the jeep track by angling back toward the rim where we’d descended. Once we’d reached the track we simply followed it back uphill to the gate at the 4-way junction.
IMG_8752Stink bug

IMG_8762Silverleaf phacelia

IMG_8766Back on the jeep track.

IMG_8770Lupine and balsamroot

IMG_8779The cows had really chewed this section of the jeep track up.

IMG_8784The gate ahead.

IMG_8786Horned lark guarding the gate.

After passing through the gate we retraced our route back to the trailhead. Butterflies were now out in force and we spotted a couple of lizards.
IMG_8790Mt. Jefferson and Olallie Butte

IMG_8797Grand collomia

IMG_8805Time for some sun.

IMG_8808A butterfly and fly.

IMG_8810Three butterflies and a fly.

IMG_8820Busy bee

IMG_8825This swallowtail was a little rough around the edges.

IMG_8832Another horned lark on lookout.

IMG_8838Nothing brings fritillary butterflies together like a good pile of scat.

We had been trying to figure out where the Oregonhikers loop had veered off Criterion Road and as we were discussing it on the way back it donned on us that it must follow the powerlines for a short distance. Neither of us had noticed another jeep track leading off around the powerlines but it made sense because there is almost always an access road below lines. Sure enough when we arrived at the power lines there was a jeep track clear as day.
IMG_8853Another option for another time. We were just happy to have solved that mystery.

IMG_8856The Radio Towers on the hill were right next to the trailhead.

IMG_8859The Three Sisters (from this angle it looks like two)

IMG_8871Three butterflies and a beetle on buckwheat.

IMG_8877Another mystery was where did the trail from the South Trailhead (just on the other side of the radio towers) connect. We’d missed the track on the right on our first pass, another question answered.

IMG_8882Lizard with half a tail at the trailhead.

IMG_8888This mountain bluebird was acting odd when we arrived at the gate. It was flying back and forth with something in its mouth. (Mt. Adams is in the background.)

It turned out to be a grasshopper that it was waiting to feed its young who were apparently in a nest in some nearby rocks.
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After we passed by we heard the chicks calling and watched it fly into the rocks with their meal.

This turned out to be an excellent choice for the holiday weekend. We only encountered one other person, a trail runner we passed on our way back to the 4-way junction from Stag Point. The late wildflower season played to our advantage and the weather was good. It can get really hot and/or really windy there but on this day a reasonable breeze kept the temperature down without blowing us around. The rough tread was really the only downside to the hike, but that wasn’t too bad overall.

Our hike came in at 10.6 miles with roughly 700′ of elevation gain.

We definitely plan on returning to try Sullivan’s route from below someday and possibly trying to follow the Oregonhikers loop sometime as well. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Criterion Tract

Categories
Hiking

Blowout Arm Suspension Bridge and Metolius Preserve – 05/27/23

For Memorial Day weekend we headed for Bend to visit Heather’s parents and check out some new trails. We had two stops planned on the way from Salem to Bend. Originally those stops were to visit a suspension bridge over part of Detroit Lake and the Peterson Ridge Trail system in Sisters. As the weekend neared, I started questioning the wisdom of stopping at the popular trailhead in Sisters on a holiday weekend. As I was scanning Google Maps for inspiration for a new-to-us trail along Highway 20 I noticed a couple of trailheads for the Metolius Preserve. Somehow this had flown under our radar but with over 10 miles of trails and the multiple loop options it looked like a good option.

With the new plan set we got an early start Saturday morning and headed for Detroit Lake’s Blowout Arm. We were working out of Matt Reeder’s “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region” guidebook and followed his driving directions to the trailhead.
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A reportedly popular spot for swimming we thought this was a good time of year (and time of day) to avoid the crowds and that proved to be correct. We followed the trail downhill for approximately 0.2-miles to the bridge.
IMG_8178Our first rhododendron blossom of the year.

IMG_8183We turned right when the trail met an old logging road.

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IMG_8189

IMG_8190

IMG_8191Blowout Arm

IMG_8193Blowout Creek flowing into Blowout Arm.

A little post-hike research led me to a post on Oregonhikers.org by justpeachy which revealed that this had once been part of the “Volcano” Trail and connected to several other trails above Detroit Lake, but these days the trail ends not far beyond the bridge.
IMG_8198We found our first beargrass on the other side of the bridge.

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IMG_8205Swimmers at Blowout Arm.

After not being able to cross the suspension bridge over the Illinois River earlier this month (post) it was nice to be able to do so here. After returning to the car we continued East on Highway 20 to Jack Lake Road (Forest Road 12) where we turned left and headed for the Metolius Preserve‘s North Trailhead.
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Acquired by the Deschutes Land Trust in 2003, the Preserve is 1,240 acres with over 10 miles of trails. Our plan here was to hike the Larch, Fir, and Pine trails, each of which includes at least one loop by staying right at all trail junctions.
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After looking over the trailhead signboard we walked back to the parking lot entrance which crossed the Lake Creek Trail, the only trail in the Preserve open to horses. Bike and dogs (on leash) are allowed on all trails. Following a point for the Larch Trails we started along the Lake Creek Trail and soon turned left at another pointer for the Larch Trails.
IMG_8218Sign for the Lake Creek Trail.

IMG_8224Lake Creek Trail

IMG_8225Pointer for the Larch Trails.

Just before reaching a footbridge across the North Fork Lake Creek we passed a junction with a return trail to the North Trailhead.
IMG_8226Violets

IMG_8228Star-flowered solomonseal

IMG_8229Serviceberry

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IMG_8232

IMG_8233North Fork Lake Creek

At another junction just beyond the bridge we turned right and followed the Larch Trail passing over the Middle Fork Lake Creek before reaching the next junction.
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IMG_8244Middle Fork Lake Creek

IMG_8247Between the pointers at junctions and a few well-placed maps it was relatively easy to stay on course, as long as we were paying attention.

IMG_8251We stayed right again here at the start of the Fir Trails.

IMG_8256A seasonal tributary of Middle Fork Lake Creek.

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IMG_8264Balsamroot

IMG_8267Fir Trail reaching a bridge over the South Fork Lake Creek.

IMG_8269Interpretive sign at the South Fork Lake Creek.

IMG_8273A second footbridge over another branch of the Lake Creek.

On the far side of the South Fork Lake Creek was the South Trailhead.
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IMG_8276Shelter at the South Trailhead

After a short break at the South Trailhead we continued on the Fir Trails following pointers for the Creek Overlooks.
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IMG_8279The first overlook didn’t have much of a view of the creek but the second one did, along with a nice bench.

IMG_8283The second overlook.

IMG_8284Interpretive sign at the second overlook.

IMG_8285South Fork Lake Creek

We continued from the overlooks staying right on the marked trails (there were some roadbeds that we did not turn right on).
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IMG_8293

IMG_8296Hound’s tongue with a caterpillar.

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IMG_8311The Fir Trails end at Road 500 (the entrance to the South Trailhead) and the Pine Trails start on the far side.

IMG_8316Western stoneseed

IMG_8320Squirrel

IMG_8323Goosefoot violet

IMG_8326One of the non-trail roadbeds to the right along the Pine Trails.

IMG_8339Balsamroot along the Pine Trails.

IMG_8344There had been some fairly recent thinning happening along the Pine Trails.

IMG_8351Chirpping sparrows

IMG_8353Chipmunks

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IMG_8361Deer along the Fir Trails.

IMG_8379The Fir Trails crossed the seasonal branch on a small footbridge.

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IMG_8381Slender phlox and narrowleaf miner’s-lettuce.

We got a few decent views of Black Butte (post) as we returned along the Larch Trails.
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IMG_8395I took this photo of a swallowtail and then later realized there was a second butterfly on the Oregon grape.

IMG_8398Lunch

IMG_8399Bridge over the North Fork Lake Creek.

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IMG_8412Bench along Lake Creek near the North Trailhead.

IMG_8415Arriving back at the trailhead.

Our hike here came to 9.5 miles with maybe 150′ of elevation gain. (Blowout Arm was just 0.6 miles with 100′ of elevation gain.)

This turned out to be a great choice to kick off Memorial Day weekend. While there weren’t any big views, we saw less than 10 people at the Preserve which was far fewer than we would have encountered at Peterson Ridge. Between the various creek crossings, a few wildflowers here and there, and some wildlife there was plenty to make the hike enjoyable. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Blowout Arm & Metolius Preserve

Categories
Hiking Oregon Portland Trip report Willamette Valley

Tualatin River Wildlife Refuge, Cooper Mountain, and Graham Oaks – 05/13/2023

While Spring has largely been a no-show so far this year, Summer decided to make an early appearance with a weekend forecast for temperatures topping 90 degrees. We’ve been lucky to hit 60 so we’ve had no time to adjust to that kind of heat. In the past when temperatures have soared, we’ve opted to adjust our planned hike to minimize the impact. That wasn’t necessary this time though as our planned outing was to take three short hikes, each less than an hour North of Salem.

We started our morning by re-visiting the Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge. We’d stopped here in March of 2019 (post) but could only hike the River Trail at that time of the year. The longer Wetland Trail loop is closed from October 1st through April 30th so we’d scheduled this May visit to check out the loop. We started from the Roy Rogers Trailhead where we found a nice patch of wildflowers to greet us.
IMG_7765The refuge is open from dawn to dusk. We arrived at a quarter to six to get an early start and avoid being out during the hottest parts of the day.

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IMG_7771The patch of wildflowers.

IMG_7773A checker-mallow surrounded by golden paintbrush.

DSCN3325Plectritis amid the golden paintbrush.

We decided to go counterclockwise and forked right across Chicken Creek on a bridge.
IMG_7776We had a pretty good view of Mt. Hood.

The Wetland Trail follows a service road around the refuge. We began seeing wildlife almost immediately with a family of geese and a pair of deer hanging out on some private property adjacent to the refuge.
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It was approximately 1.5-miles from the Roy Rogers Trailhead to the Refuge Headquarters and Wildlife Center. It was slow going as we kept stopping to watch the wildlife.
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DSCN3353Mallards

DSCN3369Greater yellowlegs

DSCN3372Mourning dove

DSCN3375Great blue heron

DSCN3380An egret and some ducks

DSCN3394More families of geese

IMG_7789Swallows flying above the Wetland Trail.

Northern shoveler, Scaups, and a buffleheadNorthern shoveler, scaups (leaning toward greater), and a bufflehead.

DSCN3401Mallards

DSCN3424Northern shoveler

Ruddy duckRuddy duck

DSCN3435Gadwalls

DSCN3434Spotted sandpiper

DSCN3439Purple martins

DSCN3441Killerdeer

DSCN3456Cinnamon teals

DSCN3446Nutria, one of several of these non-native rodents that we saw.

DSCN3415Nap time (or just a late sleeper).

DSCN3450Ducklings

DSCN3458Song sparrow

DSCN3468Common yellowthroat

IMG_7798Wildlife Center

We took in the view from the overlook next to the Wildlife Center before continuing on with the loop.
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DSCN3476Great blue heron watching from a little island.

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We followed the Wetland Trail until we came to the River Overlook where we cut over to the River Trail (the trails are less than a yard apart in this area) to check in on the Tualatin River.
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DSCN3483Anna’s hummingbird

DSCN3484The same Anna’s hummingbird. When catching light their head/throat is bright pink but appear black when not.

IMG_7810River Overlook

IMG_7812Tualatin River

DSCN3487Robin

From the overlook we stuck to the River Trail following it through a short section of forest before rejoining the Wetland Trail.
IMG_7813The Wetland and River Trails running parallel.

DSCN3489Spotted towhee

DSCN3496Rabbit

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IMG_7819Pacific waterleaf

IMG_7821Violets and fringecup along the River Trail.

IMG_7823Bleeding heart

IMG_7820We skipped the spur trail to the Ridgetop Overlook since we’d done that on our previous visit.

IMG_7828Chicken Creek

IMG_7829The River Trail meets the Wetland Trail across from the Weland Observation Platform.

We didn’t observe much from the platform on this visit. We continued on with our loop back on the Wetland Trail.
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DSCN3506Great white egrets

IMG_7838There were some impressively tall trees along this portion of the loop.

The trail made a 90-degree turn just before another branch of Chicken Creek and headed in a near straight line back toward the Roy Rogers Trailhead.
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DSCN3518Another egret

IMG_7842More egrets across Chicken Creek.

DSCN3527Red-winged blackbird

DSCN3530Savannah sparrow

DSCN3535Checker-mallow

DSCN3537A parsley

While our loop was only 3.6-miles it was packed full of sights, a great start to our morning. From the refuge we made the roughly 10-minute drive to our next stop at the Cooper Mountain Nature Park, yet another park managed by Oregon Metro. The park hosts a little over three miles of trails which start at a nice little playground.
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20230513_081204Our planned route was to go right on the Little Prairie Loop to the Cooper Mountain Loop and then stay right on that loop (with a detour to hike the Larkspur Loop) to Blacktail Way. We’d then take Blacktail Way back to the Little Prairie Loop and turn right again to finish that loop and return to the trailhead.

IMG_7856The view from Cooper Mountain Nature Park.

The trail system heads downhill from the trailhead so keep in mind that all hikes here end with on an uphill.
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IMG_7849Metro is currently running an odd little trial with very short “photo loops”. Mowed paths just off the main trails for photography. We took the first loop just to check it out and they were not kidding when they said the surface may be uneven.

IMG_7861One of two trial photo loops.

The idea is to limit the negative effects of off trail hiking. It’s an interesting idea but it would be easier if people could follow simple rules. We quickly found ourselves back on the Little Prairie Loop and forking right.
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IMG_7864The second trial loop. You can see how short this one is by the signboard just downhill marking its other end.

IMG_7865There were several interpretive signs and benches along the trails.

DSCN3543White-crowned sparrow

DSCN3544Anna’s hummingbird

IMG_7874Star flower

IMG_7878As usual Metro had the trail junctions well marked with little maps on top of the posts. This is the Cooper Mountain Loop junction with the lower end of the Outback Trail.

IMG_7876Camas

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20230513_083618Tough-leaved iris

IMG_7892Serviceberry

IMG_7894Honeysuckle

IMG_7896Looking back uphill to some wildflowers.

DSCN3554Monkeyflower

DSCN3555Tomcat clover

DSCN3559Spotted towhee

IMG_7904Bench along a pond filling an old quarry.

IMG_7905The pond. Red-legged frogs apparently breed here. We didn’t see any frogs but there was a mallard hanging out in the brush.

IMG_7907Iris on the hillside above the quarry.

IMG_7911The Larkspur Loop continuing straight from the Cooper Mountain Loop which turns uphill at the junction.

An endangered species of larkspur, pale larkspur (Delphinium leucophaeum), typically blooms in the park in late Spring into June. With everything running late this year we didn’t spot any yet this year as we completed the 0.7-mile lollipop loop.
IMG_7914Prior to the loop the Larkspur Loop dips to cross a creek in the trees.

IMG_7915The little creek.

IMG_7918View from the Larkspur Loop.

IMG_7919While watching for the larkspur I noticed these giant blue-eyed Mary.

We returned to the Cooper Mountain Loop which made a steep climb to its junction with Blacktail Way.
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IMG_7921Blacktail Way to the right.

IMG_7922Map at the junction.

Blacktail Way climbed more gradually on its way to the Little Prairie Loop.
IMG_7926The “earphone” next to the bench here was neat. There was also one at the trailhead and they really allowed you to isolate the sounds of the woods.

IMG_7927The Little Prairie Loop.

We turned right onto the loop and then quickly detoured to the Little Prairie Overlook.
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IMG_7931The pale larkspur also grows in this area but again we were too early.

IMG_7933These were the only woodland-stars we spotted.

After checking out Little Prairie we finished the loop and returned to our car. This stop came to 3.1 miles with 300′ of elevation gain.

From Cooper Mountain we drove 18 miles south to our final stop of the day at Graham Oaks Nature Park. Another one of Metro’s parks Graham Oaks also hosts approximately three miles of trails. Unlike many of the other Metro parks we’ve visited recently this one allows bikes and dogs (on leash) albeit limited to the Tonquin Trail.
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Our planned route here was another counterclockwise loop starting on the Tonquin Trail. We would follow that trail to the hiker only Oak Woodland Walk and then turn onto Coyote Way then take the Legacy Creek Trail returning to Coyote Way just before its end at the Tonquin Trail. Then we would simply follow the Tonquin Trail back to the trailhead.

Despite this being our third stop, the early start had gotten us here shortly after 10am, it was already over 70 degrees when we set off on the Tonquin Trail. Luckily for us there was an occasional breeze that helped cool things off a bit.
IMG_7941Heading toward Acron Plaza on the Tonquin Trail.

IMG_7944Interpretive sign at Acorn Plaza.

There were large amounts of large camas blooming along the trail along with yellow buttercups and some patches of lupine.
IMG_7948Lupine and buttercups

DSCN3565Lupine

IMG_7953Meadow checker-mallow

We detoured to Elder Plaza at a trail marker.
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IMG_7956The “elder” oak is between 150-200 years old.

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DSCN3570We watched this American Kestral hover on a near vertical line for what felt like quite a while. It eventually dove and attempted to catch something in the grass. We couldn’t tell if it had been successful.

We continued down the Tonquin Trail and made a second detour to visit the Wetland Overlook.
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IMG_7962

IMG_7964

IMG_7969Mylitta crescent

We made a third detour when we reached a 4-way junction with the Oak Woodland Walk and Arrowhead Creek Trails. We turned right onto the Arrowhead Creek Trail to see what the creek might look like since we could see a little footbridge from the junction.
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IMG_7972Footbridge over Arrowhead Creek.

There wasn’t really any water flowing in the creek bed and we turned around after crossing and returned to the 4-way junction where we crossed the Tonquin Trail onto the Oak Woodland Walk.
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IMG_7977The Lycaenidae family of butterflies remains a mystery to me. This appears to be an Eastern Tailed Blue based on the ventral spots.

IMG_7981Snow in the Cascade foothills. If you look really closely behind the bigger snow patch to the far-right, you can just barely make out Mt. Jefferson.

We turned onto Coyote Way and quickly spotted several species of birds.
DSCN3574Starling

DSCN3572Northern flicker

DSCN3580This scrub jay would not come out from behind the oak leaves.

Coyote Way eventually entered some trees and crossed a boardwalk.
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IMG_7986There was a lot of candy flower beneath the trees.

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We turned onto the Legacy Creek Trail and found ourselves under a much denser canopy of trees. This extra shade made this feel like the coolest section of trail we’d been on all day which was welcome because it was now over 80 degrees in the Sun.
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IMG_7990Mushrooms along the Legacy Creek Trail.

IMG_7992Violets, candy flower and the invasive herb robert (pink).

We left the trees and quickly arrived back at Coyote Way where we took a right followed by another right on the Tonquin Trail after 200′.
IMG_7996Coming up to Coyote Way.

IMG_7999Back on the Tonquin Trail and heading for the trailhead.

This was our shortest stop of the day coming in at just 2.7 miles. For the day we logged 9.4 miles with approximately 400′ of cumulative elevation gain, primarily from our stop at Cooper Mountain. These were all enjoyable stops and each provided a different experience. Happy Trails!

Tualatin River Refuge
Cooper Mountain
Graham Oaks