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Hiking Oregon Roseburg Area Trip report Willamette Valley

Fern Falls and Comstock Day Use Area – 06/25/23

We spent the night in Roseburg after making the long drive from Salem to Marial for a day hike along the Rogue River (post) and on the way home we made a couple of stops. Our plan involved portions of two of Sullivan’s featured hikes. Because we’d done one of the options for each of the hikes we had checked them off our to-do list, but we didn’t want to pass up the chance to do the additional options.

Our first stop involved a short out-and-back to Fern Falls along the North Umpqua Trail. In his Fall Creek Falls hike Sullivan provides two options, the hike to Fall Creek Falls (post) or three stops including Fall Creek Falls, Susan Creek Falls (post), and Fern Falls.

It took a bit of research online to figure out if the section of the North Umpqua Trail to Fern Falls was actually open. The area burned in the 2020 Archie Creek Fire closing the lower sections of the trail. The first few miles are managed by the BLM before the Forest Service takes over at the Umpqua National Forest boundary. The Forest Service has not lifted their closure order but it wasn’t clear whether or not the BLM had reopened their portion. Since there was no information on the BLM site stating that the trail was closed and several people had posted recent trip reports on Alltrails we decided to give it a try and drove to the Swiftwater Trailhead along the North Umpqua River.
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There was no closure order posted at the trailhead and a couple of fishermen had beaten us to the parking area so we set off on the trail.
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IMG_2248Fireweed

At the quarter-mile mark we forked right on a spur trail to an interpretive sign overlooking Deadline Falls.
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IMG_2262Deadline Falls

After admiring the falls we returned to the North Umpqua Trail and continued on through the fire scar.
IMG_2268Signs of ongoing trail work.

IMG_2273Northern phlox

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IMG_2279Remains of a footbridge lost to the Archie Creek Fire.

IMG_2280The current creek crossing. We joked that this was a prime difference between the BLM and Forest Service. It feels like the Forest Service waits until everything has been repaired (plus a year or two) before reopening trails after a fire while the BLM reopens them once they are passable.

IMG_2282Self-heal

IMG_2295The trailing blackberries were ripening along the trail providing us with a nice second breakfast.

IMG_2296North Umpqua River from the trail.

IMG_2302We also spotted a few ripe blackcap raspberries.

IMG_2310Bleeding heart

IMG_2314Crab spider on a California harebell.

IMG_2317Heather was really excited to find ripe thimbleberries too.

IMG_2323Highway 138 on the far side of the river.

Approximately 1.7 miles from the trailhead we arrived at Fern Falls.
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A fallen log dissected the view of the falls, a result of the fire but it was a nice view and a good turn around point.
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IMG_2338Musk monkeyflower

IMG_2340I managed to pull a ripe salmonberry out of this bush below Fern Falls.

We returned the way we’d come under increasing sunlight. Birds had been singing all morning and with the increased light we were finally able to spot some of them.
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20230625_071045Moth

IMG_2350Lazuli bunting

IMG_2365Black-headed grosbeak

IMG_2368Unidentified small bird.

IMG_2376Wren, possibly a house wren.

IMG_2378This little one was way up atop a snag. Merlin suggests it’s a Macgillivray’s warbler.

IMG_2381Woodpecker

IMG_2386Backside of a Stellar’s jay.

IMG_2388Raven

Our hike here came to 3.4 miles with maybe 300′ of elevation gain.

We hopped into the car and drove to our next stop at the Comstock Day Use Area for the BLM managed North Bank Habitat Management Area.
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We had visited the area in 2015 starting a loop from the West Access Trailhead. We planned another loop from this trailhead which would share a 1.2-mile section of that earlier loop.
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We began by passing a green gate at the NW end (left) of the trailhead parking area and following an old roadbed for 0.1-miles to a fork.
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We stayed right on the signed Soggy Bottom Trail.
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We followed the Soggy Bottom Trail for 0.7 miles to the Middle Barn.
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20230625_081411Checker-mallow

IMG_2412Turkey vulture

IMG_2419We spotted a deer way up on the hillside in the distance.

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IMG_2422Heading down to Soggy Bottom.

IMG_2425Middle Barn

We stayed right past a road to the barn and continued to the next fork and turned left on the North Gate Trail.
IMG_2428Soggy Bottom

IMG_2430Bindweed

IMG_2431The North Gate Trail ahead on the left.

IMG_2433North Gate Trail

20230625_082841Elegant brodiaea

IMG_2435Common wood nymph

The trail climbed steadily for the first three quarters of a mile passing a grove of cedars near the end of the stretch.
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IMG_2445The cedar grove.

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IMG_2449A little past the cedar grove we passed an old structure on the opposite side of a barbed wire fence.

IMG_2451On the far side of the structure was a sign for the Wrong Way Trail which looked as though it saw little to no use. The map at the trailhead showed this trail dead-ending in the forest which might explain why.

Beyond the Wrong Way Trail junction the North Gate Trail began a much steeper climb up to a junction at a saddle with the Middle Ridge Trail.
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Much of this section was in full sunlight making it a bit of a trudge.
IMG_2463View from the North Gate Trail.

IMG_2464Steepest section of the trail but at least there was some shade here.

IMG_2467Gopher snake

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IMG_2472Trail sign at the saddle.

We turned left on the Middle Ridge Trail for 1.2 semi-familiar miles.
IMG_2473The Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2474View from the Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2476View from the saddle.

IMG_2484A dip along the ridge.

IMG_2490First view of the North Umpqua River.

IMG_2503Hawk on a tree.

IMG_2505A different hawk in flight.

IMG_2507Elegant brodiaea

IMG_2512Looking back along the Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2513We remembered this structure in the ground.

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Approximately 1.2 miles from the saddle we arrived at a junction with the Thistle Ridge Trail.
IMG_2525Approaching the junction.

IMG_2526View back up along the trail.

IMG_2528Whistlers Bend Reservoir and the North Umpqua River. Despite a bit of haze the view was far better than it had been in 2015.

North Umpqua River from North Bank HabitatThe 2015 view on a cloudy June 5th.

We turned onto the Thistle Ridge Trail which led us past a few great madrone trees.
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IMG_2538Ookow

IMG_2539View from the Thistle Ridge Trail. Below is the lower portion of the trail which seemed to be quite a way down.

We quickly realized why it seemed so far down when we came to what we believe may be the steepest section of trail we’ve hiked.
IMG_2542When you can’t see the bottom of the hill you know it’s steep.

IMG_2546The trail finally leveled out a bit through a stand of oak trees.

After just under a mile on the Thistle Ridge Trail we came to a junction with the West Barn Road.
IMG_2547The junction below from the Thistle Ridge Trail.

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We turned left again and followed this steepish trail down 0.2 miles to the West Barn.
IMG_2553European centaury (invasive but pretty)

IMG_2555West Barn

IMG_2558The West Barn Road was a little muddy in spots.

We followed this road a total of 0.7 miles back to the junction with the Soggy Bottom Trail where we turned right to return to the trailhead.
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IMG_2563Daisies were profuse in some areas.

IMG_2567We ignored the Deer Hollow Tie Trail that joined on the right.

IMG_2568The Comstock Day Use Area from the West Barn Road.

Our loop here came to 5 miles with a little over 1000′ of elevation gain, some of which was impressively steep.

The trails here were lined with poison oak at times but they were always wide enough for us to easily keep away from it.

These were a couple of pleasant hikes and made for a nice outing before driving back home to Salem. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Fern Falls and North Bank Habitat

Categories
Grants Pass Area Hiking Oregon Trip report

Rogue River Trail Marial to Paradise Lodge – 06/24/23

At the beginning of May we spent a week in Grants Pass completing several of Sullivan’s featured hikes. Our attempt to hike a section of the Rogue River Trail out of Marial during that trip ended with us being turned back by lingering snow on the BLM roads to the trailhead (post). We rescheduled that hike for the end of June which was now upon us. At just over four hours this was too long a drive for a day hike so we’d made reservations in Roseburg for that night. We followed the BLM’s driving directions from Glendale to the Rogue River Ranch National Historic Site and then continued on BLM Road 32-9-14.2 (Mule Creek-Marial Road on Google Maps) for another mile. Just past a large parking area on the left for the Marial Lodge is where Sullivan suggest parking, but a sign at the entrance stated it was for overnight guests of the lodge only. The actual trailhead for the Rogue River Trail is at the end of the road, another half mile away so we continued on what quickly became a much rougher road. Less than a tenth of a mile was enough for us and we parked across from the Mule Creek Fireman Station in a small two car parking area.
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From the fireman station we walked the road to the official trailhead.
IMG_1975There were trail pointers at spur roads to ensure we stayed on the right one.

IMG_1978The trailhead near Marial. I couldn’t find any directions online for this trailhead which is why we used a combination of the BLM’s directions to the ranch and Sullivan’s to the trailhead.

We followed trail signs downhill and into the Wild Rogue Wilderness.
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Shortly after entering the wilderness the trail arrived at Rogue River.
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The trail passed along the rocky cliffs above Mule Creek Canyon. We had hoped to see some rafters navigating this narrow canyon, including the Coffee Pot rapids, but there weren’t any around.
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IMG_1997Dragonfly

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IMG_2010A peak into Mule Creek Canyon.

IMG_2016There weren’t many flowers left blooming but we did see a lot of elegant brodiaea.

IMG_2021Elegant brodiaea

After following the trail for 0.7 miles we arrived at Inspiration Point across from Stair Creek Falls.
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IMG_2029Mule Creek Canyon from Inspiration Point.

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We spent a good deal of time admiring the falls. This was our fifth hike along the Rogue River and of those hikes this was one of our favorite views.

We continued on passing above a much calmer river, at least for a moment.
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IMG_2043Skipper

IMG_2045Common wood-nymph

IMG_2046Paintbrush

IMG_2052Calmer waters.

IMG_2055Madrone

IMG_2056Salal

The trail alternated between rocky cliffs and brushy vegetation. Poison oak was common among the plants along the trail but there was enough room to pass through without coming into contact.
IMG_2057Some poison oak on the right.

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IMG_2068Another madrone at the start of more brush. This area was full of small birds that turned out to be bushtits.

IMG_2074It took a bit to get one of the bushtits out in the open and in the camera frame.

Near the 2-mile mark we got our first view of the boulders at Blossom Bar, the trickiest rapid along the Rogue River.
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IMG_2084Blossom Bar Rapid

Near Blossom Bar the trail crosses Burns and Blossom Creeks in quick succession.
IMG_2089Footbridge over Burns Creek.

IMG_2095Footbridge over Blossom Creek.

IMG_2096Blossom Creek

After crossing the creeks the trail climbed above the river where a spur trail to the left led downhill to Gleason Bar.
IMG_2105Trail crossing Blossom Bar.

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IMG_2108Rogue River leaving Blossom Bar.

IMG_2110Trail to Gleason Bar on the left.

We detoured down to Gleason Bar where we were greeted by a lizard.
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Variable-leaf collomiaVariable-leaf collomia

We returned to the trail and continued West making our way to another footbridge, this one crossing Paradise Creek.
IMG_2131Bear box near Gleason Bar. We didn’t see any bears on our hike but we did have a bear cub run in front of our car on the drive to the trailhead.

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On the far side of the footbridge we detoured down to the creek to get a view of the small waterfall named Devils Stairs.
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We followed a path along Paradise Bar paralleling the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2144Paradise Bar

After a tenth of a mile the Paradise Bar airstrip came into view. Sullivan had mentioned detouring left at the airstrip 200 yards to visit the Paradise Lodge, but a sign here stated that the lodge and property were only open to overnight guests with reservations.
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Not sure if this is a recent change, a result of COVID or if we misinterpreted the sign, but we veered right to get back onto the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2148The trail skirted the grassy airstrip before entering the forest.

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Paradise Lodge was the turn around point for Sullivan’s featured hike, but we decided to continue on until we got one more view of the river.
IMG_2159Jackson Creek. Most if not all of the creeks had signs letting us know their names.

IMG_2161Some of the buildings related to Paradise Lodge.

Across the river was another lodge, the Half Moon Bar Lodge.
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IMG_2165Rafters and kayakers passing through Half Moon Riffle.

IMG_2171One of Jerry’s Rogue Jets out of Gold Beach. These boats turn around at Blossom Bar Rapids.

We turned around above Half Moon Bar, approximately 4 miles from the official trailhead.
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We stuck to the Rogue River Trail on the way back, keeping our eyes out for snakes (again no rattlesnakes despite this being a prime area for them) and lizards.
IMG_2182Alligator lizard

IMG_2187Wine-cup clarkia

IMG_2207A few fluffy clouds moving in.

IMG_2221Stair Creek Falls on the way back.

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IMG_2234Mule Creek Canyon

Our hike came in at 9.8 miles with only 250′ of elevation gain, but we felt the heat (mid to upper 80’s) which made the hike feel quite a bit harder than it looked on paper.

We had left open the possibility of stopping at the Rogue River Ranch on our way to Roseburg but by the time we had gotten changed at the car all we wanted to do was get to our motel and then find a Dairy Queen for some ice cream so that’s what we did. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Rogue River West

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam – 06/16/2023

For the final day of hiking on our vacation we had two of Sullivan’s featured hikes on tap, Hells Canyon Reservoir and Hells Canyon Dam. We left our motel in Enterprise and drove the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to Oxbow. Our first stop was at Copper Creek where a short hike would take us into the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
IMG_1610The smoke that had moved in the day before was still around.

A small post directed us to the trail.
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The next post read “Trail Not Maintained Hazards May Exist”
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We weren’t sure what to expect, but we hoped it wouldn’t be another poison ivy filled hike like Wednesday’s hike at Eureka Bar (post) and that we would at least be able to make it to McGraw Creek which was 1.8 miles away.

IMG_1615Toadflax

A short distance from the trailhead we entered a signed wilderness study area.
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IMG_1621Fleabane

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IMG_1638There were lots of fish visible in the reservoir.

The tread on the trail wasn’t great but poison ivy wasn’t an issue which was nice.
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IMG_1643Penstemon

IMG_1649Showy milkweed

After approximately three quarters of a mile we entered the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
Hells Canyon Wilderness Boundary

At the 0.9-mile mark we crossed Nelson Creek.
IMG_1658Approaching Nelson Creek.

IMG_1660Nelson Creek

Red-eyed vireoRed-eyed vireo

IMG_1672Looking up Nelson Creek.

IMG_1676More fish.

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IMG_1686Lazuli bunting

We made it to the outwash plain of McGraw Creek where the trail turned inland.
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We made it another 100 yards before coming to a missing section of trail.
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We weren’t comfortable with trying to continue. There was a faint path climbing uphill that might have taken us past the missing section but we didn’t feel the need to push it and turned around.
IMG_1698McGraw Creek

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IMG_1710Lizard

IMG_1718Common wood nymph

IMG_1721Moth

Cabbage whitesCabbage whites

IMG_1735Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_1741Copper Creek Trailhead from the trail.

After completing our hike here we drove back to Oxbow and crossed the Snake River into Idaho and headed north to the Hells Canyon Dam. Sullivan’s featured hike here includes two separate options, a 2.4 mile hike to a beach just beyond Stud Creek on the Oregon side of the river and a shorter hike on the Idaho side on the Deep Creek Stairway Trail. This is the only featured hike located in the state of Idaho and we had planned to do this hike first, but the trailhead parking lot was busy with fishermen heading toward the trail. The trail consists of a series of metal stairs and catwalks leading down to the bottom of the dam near Deep Creek and we weren’t too keen on being in a crowd so we drove on across the dam to the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor Center.
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The trail here starts near the boat ramp where an interpretive sign announces the former site of a prehistoric pit house.
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IMG_1755The start of the trail.

This trail was in better shape than the one along Hells Canyon Reservoir, but it was a wild mix of wooden stairs, rocky cliffs, and scenic viewpoints.
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IMG_1761Penstemon

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IMG_1788Western clematis

IMG_1791We watched an osprey dive for a fish in the river.

IMG_1792It pulled a small fish out of the water.

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IMG_1805Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_1820Rafters that had set off from the dam.

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20230616_110757Ant in a sagebrush mariposa lily.

IMG_1832Monkeyflower and heart-leaved bittercress

IMG_1834View near Stud Creek.

We didn’t see any water in Stud Creek’s outwash plain but there were a number of differently colored mariposa lilies.
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Our turnaround point was a white cobble beach where fish occasionally jumped.
IMG_1850Cobble Beach near Stud Creek

IMG_1852Jet boat passing by.

After a short break we returned to the visitor center which we checked out before driving back across the dam.
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IMG_1898Interpretive sign near the visitors center.

IMG_1899Hells Canyon Creek

IMG_1905View from the visitors center.

We were still hoping to stop a the Deep Creek Stairway Trail and as luck would have it all but one of the cars that had been at the trailhead when we drove by earlier were gone.
IMG_1908The empty trailhead parking area.

A short road walk led us to the start of the trail.
IMG_1912The structure on the right is an old fish trap.

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IMG_1917This was only our second hike in Idaho (Jump Creek Falls was the first), and the first in one of Idaho’s National Forests.

IMG_1919The Payette National Forest manages this trail.

The trail began by heading briefly down a staircase and then climbing another set of stairs.
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IMG_1927Going up.

IMG_1930Snake River from the trail.

IMG_1931Going back down.

IMG_1934There were a couple of dirt/rock sections, but the trail was mostly metal stairs and catwalks.

We passed the owner of the remaining car, Ahmed, heading up with a pair of good-sized fish.
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IMG_1938Ahmed’s fishing pole was still out, and you might notice a little red to the left of the structure ahead.

Heather decided not to go all the way down to Deep Creek but I wanted to see it so I followed the trail to its bank.
IMG_1941There was a very short scramble to get up to the continuation of the trail above the structure along the creek.

IMG_1943A few patches of snow in the Payette National Forest.

IMG_1945Deep Creek

I was greeted at the creek by a rock covered with different butterflies.
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It was a hot, tiring climb back up to the car where we changed, grabbed some drinks and snacks, and got ready to drive to Pendleton where we would spend the night before driving back home.
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These three hikes came in at 3.7, 2.6, and 1.0 mile respectively. Hells Canyon Reservoir had over 500′ of elevation gain while the final two were under 200′ although the staircase felt like more.

We were thankful that poison ivy was a non-issue on these hikes. They were all enjoyable but given the rough condition of the Hells Canyon Reservoir Trail we wouldn’t recommend that one for kids or inexperienced hikers.

With the vacation hikes now over, we had made just a little progress on finishing 100 featured hikes from one of Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon guidebook editions (post). We had been at 79/100 heading into the vacation whith plans on completing six more but our decision to skip Dug Bar and change the edition that we were focused on meant adding five featured hikes that we hadn’t done and losing a couple that we had. Instead of sitting at 85/100 at the end of the vacation we are currently at 80/100. We’ve already worked the five new featured hikes into our plans over the next 18 months so we are still on track to be finished by the end of 2024. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Buckhorn Lookout – 06/15/2023

We had spent Wednesday wading through poison ivy along the Imnaha River on our way to Eureka Bar (post). Thursday’s hike promised to involve a lot less poison ivy even though the trailhead was less than four miles as the crow flies from the Cow Creek Trailhead where we’d parked the day before. This was because we would be starting over 4000′ higher in elevation at Buckhorn Lookout.

Before we made it to the lookout we stopped to watch a small herd of elk cross the road and run up a hillside.
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IMG_0820At least one bull in the herd.

We parked at the lookout and checked out the view there first then walked back along the road 0.2-miles and turned right on Forest Road 780 for another 1.2-miles to a gate.
IMG_0824Buckhorn Lookout

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IMG_0835Hells Canyon

IMG_0833Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0826Pale paintbrush

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IMG_0849Larkspur, lupine, and northern mules ears.

IMG_0855Prairie smoke a.k.a. old man’s whiskers

20230615_062721Purple sticky geranium

IMG_0872Paintbrush

IMG_0877Parsley, larkspur, large flower triteleia, and Tolmie’s onion

IMG_0879Phlox

IMG_0882We could have driven the 1.2-miles on FR 780 to the gate but the road was not in good shape and after driving to Eureka Bar the day before we weren’t interested in another rough road.

20230615_063649Mallow ninebark

IMG_0900Arnica

20230615_064123Large flower triteleia

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IMG_0959Gate at the end of the road.

IMG_0960Marker for the Nez Perce – Nee-Mee-Poo National Historic Trail.

The trail followed an old roadbed downhill 7.6-miles to Eureka Bar, but our plan was to go just 3.6-miles to what Sullivan refers to as the “Eureka Viewpoint”. The entire route was lined with wildflowers. The mixture and types changed as we lost elevation, over 1780′ in all, to the viewpoint.
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20230615_071903Columbian lewisia

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IMG_0978Seven Devils in Idaho

IMG_0982Lupine, yarrow, buckwheat, and scarlet gilia

20230615_072846Scarlet gilia

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IMG_1010Elkhorn clarkia a.k.a. ragged robin

IMG_1015Another impressive scarlet gilia.

IMG_1018Paintbrush, lupine, phacelia, thistle, and scarlet gilia

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20230615_074140Penstemon

IMG_1034A phlox

IMG_1035Scabland penstemon

IMG_1046Threadleaf phacelia

20230615_074846Penstemon

IMG_1054Paintbrush

IMG_1065Lark sparrow

IMG_1075Cedar waxwing

IMG_1078Elkhorn clarkia

IMG_1086Wallflower

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IMG_1099Skullcap

IMG_1102Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_1105Monkeyflower and some tiny white flowers near a seep.

IMG_1116Buckwheat

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Mylitta crescentMylitta crescent

IMG_1135Rough eyelashweed

IMG_1138Looking back up the trail.

IMG_1146At Spain Saddle the road switched to the opposite side of the ridge.

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IMG_1155Bush penstemon

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IMG_1159Another type of penstemon

White spiraeaWhite spiraea

Manyflower tonellaManyflower tonella

IMG_1176Owl’s clover

Six tenths of a mile from Spain Saddle we detoured left along a fence to a viewpoint.
IMG_1174The viewpoint on the far side of the fence.

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IMG_1184Boat on the Snake River.

IMG_1190Salsify

We continued on from the first viewpoint and wound up having to yield the trail to a few cows that were being herded up the trail. After the cowgirl convinced them it was safe to pass by us we resumed our downhill hike.
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IMG_1200Bindweed

IMG_1205Thistle with bugs.

IMG_1210Clouds moving in behind us.

IMG_1216Prickly pear cactus

IMG_1218The only poison ivy we saw all hike.

IMG_1227Eureka Viewpoint ahead to the left.

Hairy goldenasterHairy goldenaster

IMG_1233Fleabane

IMG_1239Eureka Viewpoint

IMG_1240Looking back

IMG_1254Looking down

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IMG_1245Clustered broomrape

The most exciting part of Eureka Viewpoint wasn’t the view. It was finding some prickly pear cactus in bloom.
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As for the view the three small portions of the Snake River was visible below.
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IMG_1287A very small part of the river is visible to the left and more to right.

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As we rested at the viewpoint we got to looking around and realized that there was a common nighthawk sleeping on a nearby fence post.
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After a good break we began the long climb back to the lookout. The forecast had been for mostly sunny skies but it had grown increasingly hazy all day and there were now even more clouds converging overhead. It didn’t rain so the cloud cover was welcome as it kept the temperature from getting too high. The haze, which was smoke from wildfires was more problematic as it really hindered the views and by the time we’d reached the lookout we couldn’t see nearly as much as we had that morning.
IMG_1344Here come the clouds.

IMG_1360We spotted a rock arch on the way up that we’d missed earlier.

IMG_1362A closer look at the arch.

IMG_1387Common wood nymph

IMG_1398Spotted towhee

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IMG_1413Northern flicker

IMG_1428The only time we noticed the Imnaha River from the trail.

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IMG_1470Butterfly near the seep.

IMG_1481Mountain parnassian on yarrow.

IMG_1487A painted lady butterfly.

IMG_1494Chipping sparrow

IMG_1511We could actually smell a little smoke at times on the way back.

IMG_1518Tiny trumpet

IMG_1522Hound’s tongue and roses

Cassin's finchCassin’s finch

IMG_1544Western bluebird

IMG_1549Western tanager

IMG_1557Western wood peewee

Hairy Indian paintbrushHairy Indian paintbrush

IMG_1593Hoary balsamroot

IMG_1598Mountain bluebird

IMG_1595The view in the afternoon from the lookout.

This wound up being our favorite hike of the trip despite the views not being as clear as we would have liked, and is one we would certainly revisit given the chance. We’re pretty sure we saw at least 50 different species of wildflowers and the views were good even with the smoke and clouds. Round trip was 10.8 miles with almost 1800′ of elevation gain, almost entirely on the way back.

After driving back to Enterprise we cleaned up and headed to Terminal Gravity Brewing for a nice dinner with a view of the Wallowa Mountains. The next morning we would be leaving Enterprise and heading for Pendleton via the long way around the Wallowas so we could make three stops along the Snake River. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Buckhorn Lookout

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Eureka Bar – 06/14/2023

When I first planned out our trip to Enterprise it included five featured hikes that we’d yet to do: Buckhorn Lookout, Eureka Bar, Dug Bar, Hat Point, and Imnaha Falls. During the weeks leading up to this trip we removed Hat Point due to conflicting information on the status of Hat Point Road. Sullivan’s trail updates listed the road as closed until Summer 2023 and the Forest Service pages listed the Day Use Area as closed but the trailhead as open. I tried reaching out to the USFS for clarification, but they never responded so we swapped that hike with a planned 2024 visit to Hells Creek Reservoir and Dam (two featured hikes).

The next change came when we decided to try and combine Eureka Bar and Dug Bar into a single day versus an overnight stay at Dug Bar. The original plan was to do a 10-mile hike at Eureka Bar then drive to Dug Bar where we could tent camp and do an 8.6-mile hike to Deep Creek the next day before driving back to Enterprise. This was due to the reportedly poor road conditions between Imnaha and the Cow Creek Trailhead (Eureka Bar hike) and even worse road between the Cow Creek Trailhead to Dug Bar. These 15-mile and 11.4-mile stretches of road were said to take a full hour each to drive so why drive the first stretch twice if we didn’t have to. Re-reading the description of the Dug Bar hike in preperation for the trip caused me to rethink this plan since Sullivan’s description of the Dug Bar hike included a one-mile stretch of trail wading through patches of poison ivy. He listed a shorter 1.2-mile option stopping at a viewpoint after only 0.6 miles which sounded much more appealing. This would also be short enough to add to the 10ish miles at Eureka Bar and still be a manageable distance for a single day.

With the new plan in place we left Enterprise and headed for the Cow Creek Trailhead. The road was pretty much as advertised taking an hour to get between Imnaha and the trailhead. The first mile was by far the worst section, but the entire 15-miles were tedious.
IMG_0375Cow Creek Bridge at the Cow Creek Trailhead.

IMG_0378Garbage can at the trailhead.

Before we even set out we were having doubts about Dug Bar. When we arrived there was a herd of cows being driven down Dug Bar Road and a van with bicycles on the far side of the Imnaha River. Driving that road already wasn’t appealing and the idea of encountering cattle or cyclists didn’t make it any better. That was a problem for later though and we set off on a faint trail heading for a trail sign in the distance.
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At the sign we turned right on the Imnaha Trail.
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We followed this trail 4.2 miles to the Snake River at Eureka Bar. Sullivan mentioned stepping around poison ivy that, along with blackberry bushes, often crowded the trail. As it turned out the brush didn’t just crowd the trail, it had taken over the trail in places. We hacked our way through the non-poison ivy vegetation and relied on our long pants to keep the sea of poison ivy at bay.
IMG_0392Penstemon along the trail.

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IMG_0410Geese on the river.

IMG_0411Cliff swallows

20230614_071938Moth mullein

IMG_0417Hawk

IMG_0433Showy milkweed

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IMG_0447Prickly pear cactus

IMG_0454Heading into a brushy area.

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IMG_0467Rose

IMG_0472Lorquin’s admiral

We were on the lookout for rattlesnakes but didn’t see any (until one crossed the road on the drive back to Enterprise), but I did see three of what I believe were rubber boas.
IMG_0476Can you spot the snake?

IMG_0478The snake heading off the rocks into the brush.

While we fortunately didn’t encounter too many snakes there were hundreds of large crickets.
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IMG_0484I cleared this section of trail.

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IMG_0493Sumac along the trail.

IMG_0499The only marker that Sullivan mentioned along the trail was this pillar on the right at the 2.8-mile mark.

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Painted ladyPainted lady

20230614_094112St. John’s wort and poison ivy.

IMG_0525Skullcap

Becker's whiteBecker’s white

IMG_0538Our first view of the Snake River.

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IMG_0549One of several reminders of the mining town at Eureka Bar in the early 1900’s.

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IMG_0543The Mountain Chief Mine across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0557The Snake River

IMG_0554Chuckar in the brush across the Imnaha River.

IMG_0567Eureka Bar

We followed the trail along the Snake River to a trail post near Eureka Creek. At one time 2000 people lived in this area but after a sternwheeler carrying machinery for a gold processing mill crashed and sank, investors pulled out and the town disappeared.
IMG_0577Skipper on common bugloss.

IMG_0591Imnaha River emptying into the Snake.

IMG_0595Blanketflower

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IMG_0599Bindweed

IMG_0610Sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101814Another sagebrush mariposa lily

20230614_101958Fleabane

IMG_0620Stones where the gold processing mill was going to be.

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IMG_0647Long-leaved ground-cherry (Physalis longifolia)

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IMG_0652Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0655Orange globe-mallow

IMG_0667Our turnaround point.

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IMG_0675Another mariposa lily

IMG_0677Ruins at Eureka Bar.

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IMG_0678Common merganser

We returned the way we’d come. It felt like there was somehow more poison ivy on the way back.
IMG_0698A prickly pear cactus near Eureka Bar.

IMG_0726Green cricket on poison ivy.

IMG_0750Lazuli bunting

IMG_0757Mourning cloak

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IMG_0800We missed all of these prickly pear cacti on the first pass.

IMG_0814Arriving back at Dug Bar Road.

This hike ended up being 10.8 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

On the way back to the trailhead we decided that we would not be doing Dug Bar on this day. It was already hot and we’d had enough of the poison ivy. It was also later than we’d expected due to slower hiking caused by the brushy trail. Sullivan had also removed Dug Bar from the featured hikes in his most recent “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook so we could switch editions and not have to make it back in order to complete our 100 hike goal. Making that switch did mean that there were several other hikes that we’d done that were now no longer featured hikes and we’d have to add some new ones to our plans over the next year and a half to still be on track to finish by the end of 2024.

We wiped off our poles and clothes as best as we could and hoped that we had managed to avoid any exposure to the poison ivy. As of Monday the 19th we both seem to be in the clear. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Eureka Bar

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site – 06/13/2023

After Monday’s round of afternoon/evening thunderstorms we wanted to make sure we weren’t out hiking during Tuesday’s forecasted storms. We had decided to play it safe and make Tuesday a light hiking day mixed with some sightseeing in Joseph, OR. We had hoped to start with breakfast from Sugar Time Bakery but it wound up being closed all week so we ate in the room and then drove to Joseph and parked at the Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site.

A short series of trails here offer views of the Wallowa Mountains and sits adjacent to the National Park Service’s Old Chief Joseph Gravesite.
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The trail set off uphill gaining views of the mountains.
IMG_0235Lupine along the trail.

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IMG_0249Interpretive sign along the trail.

IMG_0253Second from the left is Dug Peak, the pointy peak is Sawtooth Peak, and the round peak to the right is Hurricane Point.

IMG_0255The trail descended from the hill and leveled out along some trees.

IMG_0269Yellow warbler

IMG_0270Brown-headed cowbirds

The trail split near Knight’s Pond where we turned left and crossed Silver Lake Ditch.
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On the far side of the ditch we spotted a couple of bucks on the hillside.
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The trail climbed again past a bench then descended to another parking area along Highway 351.
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IMG_0286Hounds tongue

IMG_0287Death camas

IMG_0292Oregon sunshine

IMG_0296Bench with a view of Point Joseph behind.

IMG_0300Sunflowers yet to bloom.

IMG_0307Fiddleneck

IMG_0309Descending to the highway.

We followed a bike/pedestrian path along the highway for a tenth of a mile to the entrance to the Nez Perce National Historic Park Cemetery.
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IMG_0316Old Chief Joseph’s gravesite. His original grave near Wallowa, OR had been looted twice before he was moved here in 1926.

IMG_0321Wallowa Lake beyond the gravesite of Martha and Frank David McCully.

After paying our respects we returned to the Iwetemlaykin Heritage Area and returned to the junction near Knight’s Pond where we turned left past a beautiful reflection.
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IMG_0338A sightseeing robin.

IMG_0340Butterfly on the trail.

IMG_0344Western stoneseed

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Before looping around the pond and returning to our car we detoured on a spur trail to Farmer’s Ditch at the South Main Street Entrance.
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IMG_0353Farmer’s Ditch

IMG_0354View from the South Main Street Entrance.

IMG_0357Passing back by Knight’s Pond.

IMG_0374Some uplift action on the clouds from the trailhead.

This was a 2.5-mile hike with maybe 200′ of elevation gain. We saw lots of birds and three deer during our outing and had some wonderful mountain views.

It was just a little after 9am when we finished so we drove back into downtown Joseph and parked at a public lot. We figured most places wouldn’t be open until 10am but we thought we could walk around and see what was there and enjoy the numerous art pieces around town in the meantime. Little did we realize that many (most) stores and restaurants were closed on Tuesday’s including the Wallowa County Museum. The lack of open storefronts combined with a bunch of sidewalk construction taking place cut our sightseeing short. Instead we drove back to our room in Enterprise and relaxed for a few hours before heading back to Joseph in the afternoon for an early dinner at Embers Brew House which was open on Tuesdays. Not quite the way we’d imagined the day going but we made it work and felt refreshed ahead of what promised to be the most stressful drive/hike(s) of our trip on Wednesday. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Area

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Imnaha Falls – 06/12/2023

Our arrival in Enterprise coincided with the arrival of a couple of days with forecasted afternoon thunder storms. We did some rearraigning of the order of our hikes to avoid the storms and decided on Imnaha Falls as our Monday hike. We began at the Indian Crossing Trailhead located in the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.
IMG_9800Indian Crossing Trailhead

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IMG_9798Imnaha River at the trailhead.

There were quite a few wildflowers blooming at the trailhead.
Jessica's stickseedJessica’s stickseed

IMG_9801Hooked spur violet

IMG_9803Woodland star

IMG_9804Valerian

IMG_9805Arnica

We took the South Fork Imnaha Trail #1816 following pointers for Blue Hole and Twin Lakes.
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IMG_9810

IMG_9809Violets

IMG_9823We passed a pack station in the forest on our right.

IMG_9815Ballhead waterleaf

IMG_9830Lupine along the trail

IMG_9835Anemone

IMG_9836Western meadowrue

We passed a trail sign at junction with a spur trail joining from the pack station and soon after we entered the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
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IMG_9851Paintbrush along the trail.

IMG_9853Larkspur, lupine, and Jessica’s stickseed

After three quarters of a mile we entered a previously burned forest where the views opened up some.
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IMG_9861Chipmunk

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IMG_9864A nice patch of lupine.

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IMG_9872Snow patches high up on the ridge.

IMG_9876The Imnaha River below the trail.

IMG_9877One of many small unnamed stream crossings.

IMG_9882Large-flower triteleia

IMG_9884A ponderosa pine that survived the fire.

IMG_9887Robin

IMG_9891One of several types of penstemon along the trail.

IMG_9892We were just sure that there should be elk, deer, or a bear down along the river here.

IMG_9896There were quite a few of these millipedes in the trail.

IMG_9901In some cases the creeks had taken over the trail.

IMG_9905Cinquefoil

IMG_9907A brushy section of the trail.

IMG_9908Tall bluebells

IMG_9912Two-tailed tiger swallowtail

At the two-mile mark we came to a signed junction for Twin Lakes Trail and Blue Hole where we detoured left.
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We followed this trail downhill for a tenth of a mile to an impassable ford of the Imnaha River just below the Blue Hole.
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The river was running high still so we couldn’t get a view of Blue Hole from the ford. Instead we climbed the rocks which squeeze the river through a narrow gorge before it empties into Blue Hole.
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IMG_9925Blue Hole, not exactly blue this time of year due to the amount of silty snowmelt water swelling the river.

IMG_9929Wildflowers above the gorge.

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IMG_9941The Imnaha emerging from the gorge into Blue Hole.

After a nice break at Blue Hole we returned to the South Fork Imnaha Trail and continued further into the wilderness.
IMG_9947Arnica along the trail.

IMG_9948Coming up on a small stand of aspen.

IMG_9955A rockcress

IMG_9961Juba skipper

IMG_9963Roundleaf alumroot

Painted ladyPainted lady on Oregon sunshine.

IMG_9974

IMG_9979Glacier carved rock outcrops provided some excellent views and good habitat for wildflowers.

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IMG_9984

IMG_9986

IMG_9989Scabland penstemon

IMG_0004Paintbrush

IMG_0012Not a flower but very colorful.

IMG_0018Bush penstemon

IMG_0020Western tanager

IMG_0021Western blue clematis

IMG_0025Brown creeper on a tree trunk.

IMG_0032Left is Marble Mountain and to the right further back is Honeymoon Summit.

IMG_0040Larkspur along the trail.

Heartleaf springbeautyHeartleaf springbeauty

IMG_0048Another flooded section of a the trail.

IMG_0049Western tiger swallowtails on chokecherry.

Dreamy duskywingDreamy duskywing

IMG_0056Threeleaf lewisia

IMG_0065We were too late for the Brown’s peony blooms.

IMG_0068Balsamroot and paintbrush

Three and a third miles beyond the Twin Lakes Trail junction we left the trail to see another gorge.
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IMG_0082On the opposite side, with a series of drops, is Rock Creek flowing into the Imnaha.

IMG_0074The Imnaha River leaving the gorge.

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IMG_0093Rock Creek cascading down through the forest.

After another short break we returned to the trail and continued another third of a mile where we left the trail again to find Imnaha Falls.
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IMG_0101Another creek cascading down.

IMG_0102

IMG_0103Marble Mountain

IMG_0111Twinberry honeysuckle

Marsh violetMarsh violet

IMG_0115Rock outcrop above Imnaha Falls

The 8′ Imnaha Falls was difficult to get a good view of. There was a large gap in the rocks that I eventually had to climb down into and out of to get to the edge of the rock outcrop above the river.
IMG_0119I tried going down river first to see if I could get a view back up to the falls, but the water level was into the brush along the riverbank.

IMG_0123The falls were just upriver from this bench with a couple of campsites.

IMG_0134The gap in the outcrop.

IMG_0126Imnaha Falls.

The falls were more of a rapids which might have been caused by the volume of water this time of year.
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We took a final break on the rocks here and then headed back toward the trailhead. We kept a lookout for any flowers we’d missed on the first pass.
Utah honeysuckleUtah honeysuckle

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IMG_0167Bee on a dandelion

IMG_0177Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

IMG_0178Slender phlox

IMG_0182Silverleaf phacelia

IMG_0191Vetch

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Diffuse-flower evening-primrose surrounded by blue-eyed Mary.

IMG_0203Osprey, the fishing here must have been good because we’d seen a bald eagle in this area in the morning.

IMG_0217Fairy slipper

IMG_0223Arriving back at the trailhead.

We saw three other people on the return to the trailhead. The first gentleman we encountered asked us how far it was to the lakes. He’d already passed the Twin Lakes Trail, not that he could have forded the river there, and the next closest lake was probably Fish Lake which was a good 7-8 miles away. We let him know that there weren’t any lakes nearby but that Imnaha Falls was a couple of miles further along the trail. He didn’t have much with him but he continued on after looking at the gathering clouds and saying he thought he had time to make it there. The next couple we passed after Blue Hole and they didn’t appear to be carrying any type of food, water, or gear. The number of unprepared and uninformed people we pass on trails really makes us wonder how there aren’t more rescues/deaths every year.

Our hike came in at 12.2 miles due to some extra exploring along the river with approximately 800′ of elevation gain.

We drove back to Enterprise, got cleaned up, and headed out for an early dinner. When we opened the motel room door we were greeted by a heavy rain shower. We had planned on eating at Terminal Gravity Brewing but when we got out of the car a lightning bolt immediately followed by thunder convinced us that outdoor dining was not a good idea at the moment. We decided to save Terminal Gravity for later in the week and instead got some tasty Pad Thai to go from Thai Enterprise and took it back to our room where we listened to the evening thunderstorms roll past.

Tuesday’s forecast was for more of the same with a slightly higher chance for showers so we’d planned to do a short hike in the morning followed by some time sightseeing in Joseph. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Imnaha Falls

Categories
Blue Mountains - North Hiking Oregon Trip report

Hat Rock State Park to McNary Beach – 06/11/2023

We used our second extended vacation of the year to continue our quest to complete 100 featured hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” edition 3rd edtion (post). Heading into 2023 we had done 79 out of the 100 featured hikes and had planned to check off five more on this trip to Enterprise, OR. On the way to Enterprise, a 7 1/2-hour drive from Salem, we stopped at Hat Rock State Park. We had originally planned for this stop to be a quick leg stretcher and just hike the mile loop passing Hat Rock, but a couple of late changes to our planned hikes for the remainder of the week reduced our milage so we extended our visit by hiking the Lewis and Clark Commemorative Trail to McNary Beach. This was not one of Sullivan’s featured hikes but the Lewis and Clark Trail is covered in his additional hikes under the Columbia River Railroad.

There are several large parking areas in the park and we wound up parking near the picnic area.
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We took a paved trail on the opposite side of the parking lot from the picnic area which climbed up to another parking lot and trailhead.
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IMG_9788The parking area at the trailhead.

IMG_9601Signboards at the trailhead.

IMG_9607Trail map.

We headed counterclockwise on the loop which quickly brought us to Hat Rock.
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The basalt feature is part of the Columbia Basalt eruptions, a series of lava flows that left basalt a mile thick in some places.
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We continued on the loop detouring to a bench overlooking a pond.
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Beyond the viewpoint the trail descended to a junction along the pond. Here we turned right which took us across a footbridge to a boat ramp.
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IMG_9626

IMG_9629Lake Wallula from the footbridge.

We crossed the parking lot at the boat ramp to a continuation of the trail which led uphill to the Lewis and Clark Commemorative Trail.
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Eastern kingbirdEastern kingbird near the boat ramp.

IMG_9643Post ahead marking the junction with the Lewis and Clark Trail. There is also a deer below the cliffs ahead.

IMG_9645Zooming in on the doe.

We turned right on the Lewis and Clark Trail. The former railroad grade follows the shore of Lake Wallula on the Columbia River. The lake is created by the McNary Dam which was visible near the western end of the trail near McNary Beach.
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IMG_9651Lake Wallula

We followed the trail a total of 4.8 miles to McNary Beach where we took a short break at a shaded picnic table. While the scenery didn’t change much the views were good and there were lots of birds along the way filling the air with their songs.
IMG_9655Raven with an egg it had snatched from some other bird.

IMG_9658Broad-leaved pepperweed (invasive)

IMG_9661Initially there were some houses on the left, but they gave way to the Wanaket Wildlife Area.

IMG_9665Most of the balsamroot was long past done but a few late blooms remained.

IMG_9666Dove

IMG_9667A fleabane

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SwallowSwallow

IMG_9674Patterns on Lake Wallula

IMG_9675Western meadowlark signing from atop the cliffs.

IMG_9681Sign for the Wanaket Wildlife Area

Lark sparrowLark sparrow

IMG_9694Box Canyon

IMG_9700There were a couple of small hills but over all very little elevation gain.

IMG_9701Another western meadowlark.

IMG_9706Cormorant

IMG_9723

IMG_9721Mallard

IMG_9729Showy milkweed and a bunch of bees.

IMG_9734Trail sign near McNary Beach

IMG_9736Our rest stop.

We returned to Hat Rock State Park the way we’d come.
Caspian ternCaspian tern

IMG_9746Hawk

Gray hairstreakGray hairstreak on tall tumblemustard

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Becker's whiteBecker’s white also on tall tumblemustard.

IMG_9775Boat Rock to the left and behind Hat Rock from the Lewis and Clark Trail.

We recrossed the footbridge and followed the path along the pond to complete the loop back to the picnic area.
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IMG_9779

IMG_9782One of these is not like the others.

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We ate lunch at a table in the picnic area before getting back in the car and driving to Enterprise. Our hike here came in at 10.9 miles with approximately 200′ of elevation gain.

The trail is mostly exposed to the Sun so it got a little warm but overall it was a pleasant hike. We only saw a hand full of others on the trails but there were plenty of people at Hat Rock Park itself and a fair number at McNary Beach. This was a good kick-off hike for our trip and we looked forward to more eastern Oregon scenery to come.

Two days after our visit (Tuesday 6/13) the Hat Rock Fire started near the SE corner of the park at the Highway 730/Highway 37 junction. Fortunately the fire spread away from the park. The fire is now 100% contained but it grew to over 16,800 acres before containment occurred. Happy (fire free) Trails!

Flickr: Hat Rock State Park

Categories
Columbia Gorge North Hiking SW Washington Trip report Washington

Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Nestor Peak – 06/03/2023

We have really come to enjoy spending time at wildlife refuges and have been looking for more to visit. I’d noticed Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge on maps when looking at the Mt. Adams area so I dug a little deeper to find that there is a trail there, the Willard Springs Trail. The refuge webpage describes the Willard Springs Trail as a “two-mile loop” then lists the trail length as 3.79 miles. The Oregonhikers.org field guide entry shows 2.3 miles as the hike length. No matter which length was correct, on it’s own the hike would be too short to warrant the 2:30 hour drive from Salem. I went looking for a way to fit a visit in and looked over my map of future trailheads and saw that the trailhead for the Nestor Peak hike was located on the way to the refuge. The Nestor Peak hike was just over 8-miles so adding the Willard Spring Loop would put the day around 11 miles which sounded manageable.

Our plan was to visit Conboy Lake first since it was the furthest from home, and an earlier start there might provide a better chance at spotting wildlife. We parked at the refuge headquarters and made our way to the historic Whitcomb-Cole Hewn Log House.
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IMG_9244The path to the cabin on the right.

IMG_9246Built in 1875 the cabin was moved from its original location in 1987.

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IMG_9256The snowy top of Mt. Hood from the cabin.

After exploring the cabin we set off on the Willard Springs Trail only we briefly went the wrong way. A grassy track lead north directly across the gravel road from the path to the cabin and we took it.
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We got about 250′ before realizing that this path was just going to take us back to the parking lot so we backtracked to the gravel road and followed it toward the lakebed across a small canal. (The Garmin named this Cold Springs Ditch.)
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We turned left on a wide grassy track along the ditch. Numerous colorful birds were flying in and out of the bushes and trees along the ditch, most of which would not sit still long enough for me to photograph.
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IMG_9266There was a lot of monkeyflower in and along the ditch.

IMG_9268Lupine along the ditch.

DSCN3934Lazuli bunting

DSCN3943Robin

Yellow warblerYellow warbler (according to the Merlin app).

DSCN3947Red-winged blackbird

IMG_9270The top of Mt. Adams above the trees.

We followed the ditch for a third of a mile then crossed over it to a field with bird houses and more birds.
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IMG_9276

DSCN3949Swallow

DSCN3952Western bluebirds

We stayed right at a junction near the corner of the field following the trail through the grass then into a mixed forest.
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IMG_9278

20230603_080226Honeysuckle

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IMG_9286Columbine

20230603_081412Rose

The lakebed was often visible through breaks in the trees.
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Through one such gap in the trees we spotted a pair of greater Sandhill cranes. The refuge is the only place in Washington that supports breeding pairs of the birds.
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Approximately 1.4 miles from the trailhead we came to a 4-way junction. To the left was a “shortcut trail” and to the right a viewing platform with the Willard Springs Trail continuing straight(ish).
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IMG_9320Continuation of the Willard Springs Trail behind the sign.

More often than not on our hikes we strike out with viewing platforms/bird blinds. (We’d have better luck if we sat and waited for the wildlife to come to us.) It was a different story today with a deer making its way across the lakebed and an excellent view of Mt. Adams.
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Warbling vireoWe hung around long enough that this warbling vireo came to check on us.

After a nice break at the platform we continued on the Willard Springs Trail. After another 0.5-miles we came to a signed spur trail to Willard Springs.
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We followed this spur 0.2-miles to its end at a couple of benches near the springs.
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IMG_9328

IMG_9330Willard Sprins hidden in the vegetation. We could hear them better then we could see them.

20230603_085150A healthy lupine near the springs.

We returned to the junction and continued on the loop which now turned back south. It was interesting to see the change in the forest along this section that was further from the lakebed.
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IMG_9339Cat’s ear lily

20230603_090320Hitchhiker

IMG_9342Lupine along the trail.

IMG_9352Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_9355Swallowtail

IMG_9358Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_9360Arriving back at the refuge headquarters.

Two interesting things to note about the hike were that the Oregonhikers.org Field Guide mentioned a trailhead 0.2-miles from the HQs along the entrance road but we passed no trails coming from the road and there appeared to be a no parking sign on the side of the road near where we expected to see this other trailhead. Our guess is that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Department decommissioned the alternate trailhead at some point. The other oddity was that while we did pass the other end of the shortcut trail neither of us noticed another trail joining from the left closer to the headquarters which would have been the other end of the trail that had split off at the edge of the field with the bird houses. There was even a map at the trailhead showing such a trail. Possibly another recent change (or we both just missed the connector trail).
IMG_9367Trail map at the trailhead.

The Garmin map shows the shortcut, spur to the old trailhead, and the other connector as well as some different locations for the trails.

Between exploring the cabin and briefly going the wrong way our hike here came in at an even 4-miles with only 50′ of elevation gain. Given the 4-mile figure the 3.79 miles listed on the refuge webpage for the Willard Springs Trail is probably the most accurate of the distance we came across. We didn’t see any other people, just a lot of wildlife which made for a great first stop of the day.

After finishing at Conboy Lake we drove back south to the Buck Creek Trailhead #1.
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This is one of several trailheads located along the roughly 21-mile Buck Creek Trail loop. We had hiked a segment of the Buck Creek Trail in 2020 on our Monte Carlo – Monte Cristo Loop (post). Today’s segment would be a roughly 4.2 mile climb to a former lookout site atop Nestor (Nester) Peak. We picked up the trail on West side of N-1000 across from the trailhead.
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It was later in the morning than we usually get started due to visiting Conboy Lake first and even though it was a little before 10:30am it was already feeling a little warm. The trail made a steep initial ascent before leveling off a bit.
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IMG_9374There were lots of phantom orchids blooming along the lower sections of the hike.

IMG_9378Thimbleberry

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IMG_9386Spotted coralroot was also plentiful.

IMG_9387Wallflower

Near the 3/4-mile mark we recrossed N-1000.
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The trail actually lost some elevation here as it descended toward N-1300.
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The trail ran parallel to N-1300 for a mile before again turning steeply uphill.
IMG_9397One of only two trees that were down over the trail, both were easily manageable.

IMG_9398The one small stream crossing.

IMG_9399There was enough sunlight getting through to really heat up the trail.

IMG_9401While there wasn’t much there we did occasionally see poison oak throughout most of the lower 2/3rds of the hike.

After the trail steepened we passed a spring on the right at the first of three switchbacks.
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IMG_9589Sign above the switchbacks warning mountain bikers that they were ahead.

Following a fourth switchback the trail came to another dirt road which we jogged slightly right on before finding the continuation of the Buck Creek Trail.
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IMG_9411Buck Creek Trail to the left near the roads end.

For the next half mile the trail climbed at a healthy pace. Heather hadn’t been feeling well and the heat wasn’t helping things. We talked it over and she told me to go ahead and she would go at her own pace so we split up for now.
IMG_9412

IMG_9414More spotted coralroot.

Just over a half mile from the road crossing the trail crossed another road.
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After another initial steep climb the trail relented a bit as it traversed around a ridge before gaining a ridgetop and following down to a saddle below Nestor Peak. Along the way were a couple of openings hosting bright wildflowers.
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IMG_9421Vanilla leaf

IMG_9422Queen’s cup

IMG_9425Anemone

IMG_9428

IMG_9429Lupine

IMG_9432Mt. Hood from the Buck Creek Trail.

IMG_9433Mt. Hood

Cedar hairstreakCedar hairstreak on yarrow.

IMG_9450Paintbrush, lupine, penstemon, and balsamroot.

IMG_9453Moth

IMG_9455Penstemon

IMG_9469Gaining the ridge.

IMG_9472Paintbrush

20230603_122928Showy phlox

The trail dropped off the ridge and started another good climb along a hillside to a ridge end where it turned steeply uphill climbing to road N-1600 a tenth of a mile below the summit of Nestor Peak.
IMG_9473Approaching the start of the final climb.

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IMG_9477Sub-alpine mariposa lily

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IMG_9482Showy phlox

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IMG_9490Road N-1600.

A right turn on the road led past more wildflowers with a view of Mt. Hood to the remains of a shed on top of Nestor Peak.
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At the summit Mt. Adams came into view to the NE.
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I took a break at the summit and followed some butterflies around trying to get pictures. While I was busy chasing butterflies Heather messaged to let me know she was at the start of the final climb so I waited for her at the summit.
IMG_9504

IMG_9498Unfortunate amount of graffiti on the old shed.

IMG_9530Mt. Hood and balsamroot.

IMG_9507Mt. Hood

IMG_9511Oregon sunshine

Boisduval's blueBoisduval blues

IMG_9521Duskywing

IMG_9525Balsamroot

IMG_9547Moths

IMG_9549Moth

IMG_9556Lupine

IMG_9561Butterfly on cat’s ear lily.

IMG_9563Woodland stars

IMG_9566Paintbrush

After Heather got a break too, we headed back down. There was a little bit of a breeze as we went down which combined with going downhill instead of up helped it feel cooler on the way down.
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IMG_9576Blue-head gilia

IMG_9580Ookow

IMG_9585Winecup clarkia

IMG_9594Mountain lady slipper

The hike here would have been between 8 and 8.5 miles but I wandered around the summit area enough to log 8.9 miles on the GPS unit.

We passed 8 others on the trail (3 hikers and 6 mountain bikers) and saw another mountain biker on Road N-1600 from the summit. It was a nice hike but it would have been a little more enjoyable in cooler temperatures. The views and wildflowers were great though. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Conboy Lake WLFR and Nestor Peak

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Riley Ranch Nature Preserve to Tumalo State Park – 05/29/2023

On our way home from Bend we wanted to get one more hike in and had decided on exploring the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve. There are a little under 3 miles of trail at the Reserve, but a trail along the Deschutes River connects the Reserve with Tumalo State Park making a longer hike possible.

We chose to start at the Reserve trailhead primarily due to Tumalo State Park being a fee park. The Reserve is open sunrise to sunset so we arrived early (5:20am) to try and get a jump on the crowds and our drive home.
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IMG_8895Mt. Bachelor (post) in the morning.

We stopped at the trailhead signboard to finalize our route for the day.
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We planned to stay right on Juniper and Sage Flat Loops and take the Robin’s Run down to the Canyon Loop. For the Canyon Loop we decided to go left first to hike along the Deschutes River to the Tumalo State Park Day Use Area. On our way back we would complete the Canyon Loop and stay right on the Sage Flat and Juniper Loops.
IMG_8903The start of the Juniper Loop.

IMG_8904Similar to the Metro Parks we’ve recently visited there were small maps on the trail pointers here.

IMG_8907Middle and North Sister

We spotted our first deer of the day amid the sagebrush in the distance.
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IMG_8909Blurry shot of the deer.

We detoured 40 yards to the Ben Newkirk Mountain Overlook where we saw a rabbit and some mountains.
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20230529_053544Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top, and the Three Sisters.

IMG_8920Rabbit

IMG_8925Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain (post)

IMG_8926Ball Butte

IMG_8923Broken Top (post)

IMG_8924South Sister (post)

IMG_8921Middle and North Sister

After checking out the overlook we continued on the Juniper Loop and spotted a second rabbitIMG_8930

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IMG_8934We passed by the shared Juniper/Sage Flat Trail and continued on the Sage Flat Loop.

IMG_8936Sageflat Loop

We turned right on the dirt Robin’s Run Trail which led fairly steeply downhill to the Canyon Loop.
IMG_8940

IMG_8944Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_8951

Turning left on the Canyon Loop quickly brought us to the Deschutes River.
IMG_8960Balsamroot along the Deschutes.

The trail follows the river with occasional “official” river access points marked by posts.
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IMG_8971

IMG_8973

IMG_8974

After 0.4 miles on the Canyon Loop we came to an unmarked spur trail that led to the top of a rock outcrop with a bench.
IMG_8983

IMG_8987Robin

IMG_8988Longhorn plectritis

IMG_8992Blackheaded grosbeak

IMG_8996Heather waited below while I climbed the outcrop.

IMG_8998The bench on top.

IMG_9001The top of the outcrop.

As I headed back down to Heather I encountered a deer about 30 yards from her that she hadn’t seen.
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We continued along the river looking for wildlife and wildflowers.
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IMG_9005Western stoneseed

IMG_9014Larkspur

IMG_9013I spotted something head into the river from the grass on the near bank here.

IMG_9015I spotted the grass moving before the animal below which turned out to be a beaver.

IMG_9022Beaver in the Deschutes River.

We stayed straight when the Canyon Loop turned inland. There are two cabin ruins in this area, one just a bit further along the loop and the other was just ahead on the trail along the river.
IMG_9029We followed the pointer for Tumalo State Park.

IMG_9030Cabin ruins

It was nearly 2 miles from the cabin ruins to the day use area at Tumalo State Park.
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20230529_063805Western wallflower

IMG_9038Lupine

IMG_9039Another river access point.

IMG_9042Rockcress, possibly sicklepod.

IMG_9044The northern boundary of the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve.

IMG_9046

20230529_065558Threadleaf phacelia

IMG_9061

IMG_9074Tumalo Creek (post) flowing into the Deschutes River.

While we were admiring Tumalo Creek we spotted a bird high up in a snag on the far side of the river.
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It turned out to be a Lewis’s woodpecker, one of the prettiest woodpeckers in Oregon.
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IMG_9088Crossing into Tumalo State Park.

One of the neatest features along the trail was a long footbridge crossing over some boulders along the river.
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IMG_9094Magpie

IMG_9098Paintbrush

IMG_9102Mallards

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IMG_9108Penstemon

IMG_9116A quarter of a mile from the day use area we crossed a road leading to a private bridge crossing the river.

IMG_9124Remains of another bridge in the river.

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IMG_9126Tumalo State Park Day Use Area

It was fun to see the day use area. In my school days some friends and I occasionally camped in the park and spent time fishing and swimming in the river.
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IMG_9129

IMG_9132Deschutes River at the day use area.

After reminiscing at the day use area we headed back. We kept our eyes out for more wildlife and were rewarded with a few more species of birds.
IMG_9135Kingfisher on the bridge remains. (A bit blurry due to being a long way off.)

IMG_9139A swallow and a pygmy nuthatch.

Pygmy nuthatch?Pygmy nuthatch

We turned left onto the Canyon Loop and immediately arrived at the other cabin ruins.
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IMG_9171Bench along the Canyon Loop.

IMG_9175Northern flicker

As we neared the junction with Robin’s Run we could hear a large group of trail runners making their way down.
IMG_9178We were distracted enough by the runners that we failed to notice the deer bedded down to the right of the trail. You can see its ears sticking up here.

We waited at the junction for the group to descend and while we were standing there we finally noticed the deer.
IMG_9185There were at least four deer hanging out here.

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IMG_9183

After the trail runners passed by we climbed back up to the Sage Flat Trail and turned right. After just under 500′ we came to a spur trail to the Canyon Overlook where we made a quick detour.
IMG_9197The Sage Flat Loop Trail.

IMG_9202Spur to the Canyon Overlook.

IMG_9200Death camas

IMG_9209Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain

IMG_9207Mt. Jefferson

We returned to the Sage Flat Loop and continued passing a few Lewis flax blossoms before arriving at another spur trail to the Sage Flat Overlook.
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IMG_9213Lewis flax

IMG_9215Marker for the Sage Flat Overlook.

We skipped this overlook, primarily because I went right when the overlook was to the left but given the time of day we would have been looking directly toward the Sun.
IMG_9218Looking back at where the Sage Flat Overlook was.

Next up was the River Viewpoint which was just off the Sage Flat Loop to the right.
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IMG_9222

IMG_9226Lizard near the River Viewpoint.

After looking at the river one last time we continued on the Sage Flat Loop which then became the Juniper Loop bringing us back to the trailhead.
20230529_091234The Cascade Mountains

IMG_9236Black Crater (post) and Mt. Washington

IMG_9241Finishing up the Juniper Loop.

Our hike came to 7.3 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

This was a nice, convenient hike to finish off the weekend. The early start allowed us to be finished before 9:30am which put us ahead of the bulk of holiday traffic. We made it home nice and early giving us plenty of time to catch up with the cats. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Riley Ranch Nature Reserve