Categories
California Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Crater Lake Area Grants Pass Area Hiking Klamath Mountains Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Marble Mountains Medford/Ashland Area Mt. Shasta Area Mt. Theilsen/Mt. Bailey Area Oregon Red Buttes Wilderness Rogue-Umpqua Divide Roseburg Area Salmon Mountains Scott Mountains Siskiyou mountains Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trinity Alps Trinity Divide

Southern Oregon & Northern California

Several years ago we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks (post). In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post).

Generally speaking in order to check a hike off our list we need to have hiked a substantial portion of Sullivan’s described hike or visited the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 66 of the hikes we followed the books described route. For the other 34 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing all of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had longer options that would have required multiple days to complete. In some other cases we did slightly different routes, sometimes by accident.

The area covered by Sullivan in this book, as the title suggests includes parts of Southern Oregon and Northern California. It contains his southernmost featured hike, Caribou Lakes. In general the area covered in Oregon begins just North of Roseburg extending East to Highway 97 (with the exception being Klamath Falls which is included in his Eastern Oregon book), South to California, and West to Marial on the Rogue River. In California the area extends south to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, West to the Siskiyou Wilderness, and East to the Mount Shasta Wilderness.

The hikes inside the red lines represent the location of the featured hikes.
A closer look at the area covered.

In addition to the three wilderness areas in California mentioned above the featured hikes included visits to the Marble Mountain, Castle Crags, Russian, and Red Buttes Wilderness areas in California. Wilderness areas in Oregon included the Red Buttes (OR & CA share this wilderness), Kalmiopsis, Wild Rogue, Soda Mountain, Mountain Lakes, Sky Lakes, Rogue-Umpqua Divide, Boulder Creek, and Mt. Thielsen.

In addition to the 15 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments – Oregon Caves & Cascade-Siskiyou, and Crater Lake National Park.

#1 North Bank Ranch-Hiked 6/5/2015 6/25/2023
Middle Ridge Trail - North Bank Habitat
#2 Fall Creek Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022 8/7/2022 6/25/2023
Fall Creek FallsFall Creek Falls
#3 Little River Waterfalls-Hiked 8/7/2022
Yasko FallsYasko Falls
#4 Boulder Creek-Hiked 9/7/2020
Boulder Creek
#5 Twin Lakes-Hiked 6/14/2022
Twin Lakes from a viewpoint above Twin Lakes
#6 Fish Lake-Hiked 9/3/2022
Highrock Mountain from Fish Lake
#7 Buckey and Cliff Lakes-Hiked 9/3/2022
View from Grasshopper Mountain
#8 Umpqua Hot Springs-Hiked 6/13/2022
Surprise Falls
#9 Toketee and Watson Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Toketee Falls
#10 Lemolo Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Lemolo Falls
#11 Cowhorn Mountain-Hiked 9/15/2016
Sawtooth Mountain from Cowhorn Mountain
#12 Miller and Maidu Lakes-Hiked 8/1/2012
Tipsoo Peak from Maidu Lake
#13 Tipsoo Peak-Hiked 10/2/2014
Howlock Mountain and Mt. Thielsen
#14 Thielsen Creek-Hiked 8/8/2020
Pacific Crest Trail at Thielsen Creek
#15 Mount Thielsen-Hiked 9/23/2012
Mt. Thielsen
#16 Diamond Lake-Hiked 9/5/2020
Mt. Thielsen from the Dellenback Trail
#17 Mount Bailey-Hiked 8/12/2012
Mt. Bailey Trail
#18 Boundary Springs-Hiked 6/13/2014
Unnamed waterfall below Boundary Springs on the Rogue River
#19 Park Headquarters-Hiked 7/31/2023
Wildflowers along the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail
#20 Garfield Peak-Hiked 7/31/2023
View from the Garfield Peak Trail
#21 Discovery Point-Hiked 9/19/2022
Crater Lake
#22 The Watchman-Hiked 8/12/2012 7/31/2023
Rim Trail
#23 Wizard Island-Hiked 8/1/2023
Crater Lake
#24 Mount Scott-Hiked 10/2/2014
Crater Lake
#25 Plaikni Falls and The Pinnacles-Hiked 7/30/2023
Plaikni Falls
#26 Crater Peak-Hiked 7/30/2023
Garfield and Applegate Peak on the left and Mt. Scott on the right
#27 Annie Creek & Godfrey Glen-Hiked 7/30/2023 7/31/2023
View from the Godfrey Glen Trail
#28 Union Peak-Hiked 9/17/2022
Union Peak Trail
#29 Upper and Lower Table Rocks-Hiked 6/9/2017 (Lower) & 5/26/2022 (Upper)
Wildflowers on Lower Table RockLower Table Rock

Lower Table Rock from Upper Table RockView from Upper Table Rock
#30 Lost Creek Lake-Hiked 6/9/2017
Lost Creek Lake
#31 Takelma Gorge-Hiked 10/15/2020
Takelma Gorge
#32 Natural Bridge-Hiked 10/16/2020
Rogue River
#33 Union Creek-Hiked 10/17/2020 9/20/2022
Union Creek Falls
#34 Abbott Butte-Hiked 10/17/2020
Old lookout tower on Abbott Butte
#35 Hershberger Mountain-Hiked 10/16/2020
View south from Hershberger Mountain
#36 Muir Creek-Hiked 5/27/2018
Hummingbird Meadows
#37 Rattlesnake Mountain-Hiked 9/6/2020
Rattlesnake Mountain from the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail
#38 Seven Lakes West-Hiked 9/9/2023
Alta Lake
#39 Seven Lakes East-Hiked 9/9/2023
Seven Lakes Basin
#40 Blue Lake Basin-Hiked 9/18/2022
Pear Lake
#41 Mount McLoughlin-Hiked 8/27/2016
Mt. McLoughlin
#42 Fourmile Lake-Hiked 8/26/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from Fourmile Lake
#43 Sky Lakes via Cold Springs-Hiked 9/24/2022
Luther Mountain and Lee Peak from one of the Heavenly Twin Lakes
#44 Sky Lakes via Nannie Creek-Hiked 9/24/2022
Saddle Mountain, Cherry Peak, and Pelican Butte with Trapper and Marguerette Lakes from the Divide Trail
#45 Fish Lake-Hiked 10/7/2018
Fish Lake Trail
#46 Brown Mountain Lava Flow-Hiked 8/28/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from the Brown Mountain Lava Flow
#47 Lake of the Woods-Hiked 10/7/2018
Mt. McLoughlin from Lake of the Woods
#48 Mountain Lakes-Hiked 8/25/2016
Mt. McLoughlin, Whiteface Peak, Pelican Butte, and Mount Harriman from Aspen Butte
#49 Soda Mountain-Hiked 6/3/2015
Boccard Point and Mt. Shasta in the distance
#50 Pilot Rock-Hiked 7/29/2017
Columnar basalt of Pilot Rock
#51 Mount Ashland Meadows-Hiked 6/3/2015
A cloud covered Mt. Shasta from the Pacific Crest Trail on Mt. Ashland
#52 Lithia Park-Hiked 6/2/2015
Black Swan Lake in Lithia Park
#53 Bandersnatch Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Marty the Pacific Fisher from the Bandersnatch Trail
#54 White Rabbit Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Mike Uhtoff Trail
#55 Grizzly Peak-Hiked 6/5/2015
Veiw from Grizzly Peak
#56 Roxy Ann Peak-Hiked 5/30/2022
View from the Ponderosa Trail
#57 Wagner Butte-Hiked 6/4/2015
Mt. McLoughling from Wagner Butte
#58 Siskiyou Gap-Hiked 6/16/2022
Big Red Mountain
#59 Jack-Ash Trail-Hiked 5/27/2022
Jack-Ash Trail
#60 Sterling Ditch Tunnel-Hiked 6/10/2017 5/2/2023
Sterling Mine Ditch Trail
#61 Jacksonville-Hiked 6/8/2017
View from Panorama Point
#62 Enchanted Forest-Hiked 6/11/2017
Enchanted Forest Trail
#63 Observation Peak-Hiked 6/15/2022
View from Observation Peak
#64 Collings Mountain-Hiked 6/8/2017
Applegate Lake from the Collings Mountain Trail
#65 Applegate Lake-Hiked 6/8/2017 5/29/2022
Applegate Lake
#66 Red Buttes-Hiked 10/27/2015
Marble outcrop below Kangaroo Mountain
#67 Frog Pond-Hiked 6/18/2022
Cabin ruins at Frog Pond
#68 Azalea Lake-Hiked 10/26/2015
Azalea Lake and Figurehead Mountain
#69 Sturgis Fork-Hiked 10/7/2023
Boundary Trail passing through a meadow
#70 Grayback Mountain-Hiked 10/9/2023
Grayback Mountain snow shelter
#71 Oregon Caves-Hiked 10/30/2015
Looking up inside the Paradise Lost room of the Oregon Cave
#72 Mount Elijah-Hiked 10/7/2023
Lake Mountain Trail heading toward the taller Mount Elijah
#73 Sucker Creek-Hiked 10/26/2015
Sucker Creek Shelter
#74 Tanner Lakes-Hiked 10/8/2023
Tanner Lake
#75 Bolan Lake-Hiked 10/8/2023
Bolan Lake
#76 Polar Bear Gap-Hiked 7/1/2022
Polar Bear Mountain
#77 Raspberry Lake-Hiked 7/3/2022
Preston Peak and Bear Mountain from the Raspberry Lake Trail
#78 Devils Punchbowl-Hiked 7/2/2022
Devil's Punchbowl
#79 Rough and Ready Creeks-Hiked 5/12/2017
Rough and Ready Creek
#80 Babyfoot Lake-Hiked 10/9/2023
Babyfoot Lake
#81 Eight Dollar Mountain-Hiked 5/4/2023
Eight Dollar Mountain Boardwalk
#82 Illinois River Beaches-Hiked 5/4/2023
Illinois River from the Kerby Flat Trail
#83 Grants Pass Nature Trails 5/3/2023
Indian warrior along the Outback Loop
#84 Rouge River Trail East-Hiked 5/1/2023
Manzanita along the Rogue River Trail
#85 Rogue River Trail West-Hiked 6/24/2023
Rogue River Trail
#86 Paradise Lake-Hiked 6/28/2016
View from Kings Castle
#87 Sky High Lakes-Hiked 6/29/2016
Shooting star along Frying Pan Lake
#88 Campbell Lake-Hiked 6/27/2016
Cliff Lake
#89 Paynes Lake-Hiked 7/24/2017
Paynes Lake
#90 Russian Lake-Hiked 8/24/2022
Russian Lake
#91 Hidden & South Fork Lakes-Hiked 8/26/2022
Upper South Fork Lake
#92 Trail Gulch Lake-Hiked 8/25/2022
Trail Gulch Lake from the Trail Gulch Tie Trail
#93 East Boulder Lake-Hiked 8/23/2022
East Boulder Lake
#94 Kangaroo Lake-Hiked 7/23/2017
Kangaroo Lake
#95 Deadfall Lakes-Hiked 7/25/2017
Lower Deadfall Lake
#96 Caribou Lake-Hiked 7/27/2017
View from the Old Caribou Lake Trail
#97 Castle Lake-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Lake and Mt. Shasta
#98 Castle Crags-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Crags
#99 Black Butte-Hiked 7/28/2017
Mt. Eddy from the Black Butte Trail
#100 Mount Shasta Meadows-Hiked 8/22/2022
Mt. Shasta from South Gate Meadows

In our minds this was by far the most challenging area to finish even though we did so before completing Eastern Oregon. The difficulty with Eastern Oregon mostly revolves around distance from Salem and the size of the area covered. The Southern Oregon-Northern California area is smaller and the hikes not as far away, but it involved a lot of trails that frankly don’t see the level of maintenance that most of the other areas receive. While we’ve encountered rough trails, all over poison oak is much more prevalent down south which doesn’t invite pushing through overgrown tread or bushwacking around obstacles. This area has also been hit harder by fires over the last couple of decades leaving extra work to reopen them as well as remove additional blowdown as the dead trees fall over. When the conditions were good though the scenery and diverse plant and wildlife made for some spectacular hikes. There are many that we’d love to do again and several non-featured hikes that we have in our future plans, so we aren’t done with area yet. Happy Trails!

Categories
Grants Pass Area Hiking Oregon Trip report

Rogue River Trail Marial to Paradise Lodge – 06/24/23

At the beginning of May we spent a week in Grants Pass completing several of Sullivan’s featured hikes. Our attempt to hike a section of the Rogue River Trail out of Marial during that trip ended with us being turned back by lingering snow on the BLM roads to the trailhead (post). We rescheduled that hike for the end of June which was now upon us. At just over four hours this was too long a drive for a day hike so we’d made reservations in Roseburg for that night. We followed the BLM’s driving directions from Glendale to the Rogue River Ranch National Historic Site and then continued on BLM Road 32-9-14.2 (Mule Creek-Marial Road on Google Maps) for another mile. Just past a large parking area on the left for the Marial Lodge is where Sullivan suggest parking, but a sign at the entrance stated it was for overnight guests of the lodge only. The actual trailhead for the Rogue River Trail is at the end of the road, another half mile away so we continued on what quickly became a much rougher road. Less than a tenth of a mile was enough for us and we parked across from the Mule Creek Fireman Station in a small two car parking area.
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From the fireman station we walked the road to the official trailhead.
IMG_1975There were trail pointers at spur roads to ensure we stayed on the right one.

IMG_1978The trailhead near Marial. I couldn’t find any directions online for this trailhead which is why we used a combination of the BLM’s directions to the ranch and Sullivan’s to the trailhead.

We followed trail signs downhill and into the Wild Rogue Wilderness.
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Shortly after entering the wilderness the trail arrived at Rogue River.
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The trail passed along the rocky cliffs above Mule Creek Canyon. We had hoped to see some rafters navigating this narrow canyon, including the Coffee Pot rapids, but there weren’t any around.
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IMG_1997Dragonfly

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IMG_2010A peak into Mule Creek Canyon.

IMG_2016There weren’t many flowers left blooming but we did see a lot of elegant brodiaea.

IMG_2021Elegant brodiaea

After following the trail for 0.7 miles we arrived at Inspiration Point across from Stair Creek Falls.
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IMG_2029Mule Creek Canyon from Inspiration Point.

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We spent a good deal of time admiring the falls. This was our fifth hike along the Rogue River and of those hikes this was one of our favorite views.

We continued on passing above a much calmer river, at least for a moment.
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IMG_2043Skipper

IMG_2045Common wood-nymph

IMG_2046Paintbrush

IMG_2052Calmer waters.

IMG_2055Madrone

IMG_2056Salal

The trail alternated between rocky cliffs and brushy vegetation. Poison oak was common among the plants along the trail but there was enough room to pass through without coming into contact.
IMG_2057Some poison oak on the right.

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IMG_2068Another madrone at the start of more brush. This area was full of small birds that turned out to be bushtits.

IMG_2074It took a bit to get one of the bushtits out in the open and in the camera frame.

Near the 2-mile mark we got our first view of the boulders at Blossom Bar, the trickiest rapid along the Rogue River.
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IMG_2084Blossom Bar Rapid

Near Blossom Bar the trail crosses Burns and Blossom Creeks in quick succession.
IMG_2089Footbridge over Burns Creek.

IMG_2095Footbridge over Blossom Creek.

IMG_2096Blossom Creek

After crossing the creeks the trail climbed above the river where a spur trail to the left led downhill to Gleason Bar.
IMG_2105Trail crossing Blossom Bar.

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IMG_2108Rogue River leaving Blossom Bar.

IMG_2110Trail to Gleason Bar on the left.

We detoured down to Gleason Bar where we were greeted by a lizard.
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Variable-leaf collomiaVariable-leaf collomia

We returned to the trail and continued West making our way to another footbridge, this one crossing Paradise Creek.
IMG_2131Bear box near Gleason Bar. We didn’t see any bears on our hike but we did have a bear cub run in front of our car on the drive to the trailhead.

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On the far side of the footbridge we detoured down to the creek to get a view of the small waterfall named Devils Stairs.
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We followed a path along Paradise Bar paralleling the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2144Paradise Bar

After a tenth of a mile the Paradise Bar airstrip came into view. Sullivan had mentioned detouring left at the airstrip 200 yards to visit the Paradise Lodge, but a sign here stated that the lodge and property were only open to overnight guests with reservations.
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Not sure if this is a recent change, a result of COVID or if we misinterpreted the sign, but we veered right to get back onto the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2148The trail skirted the grassy airstrip before entering the forest.

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Paradise Lodge was the turn around point for Sullivan’s featured hike, but we decided to continue on until we got one more view of the river.
IMG_2159Jackson Creek. Most if not all of the creeks had signs letting us know their names.

IMG_2161Some of the buildings related to Paradise Lodge.

Across the river was another lodge, the Half Moon Bar Lodge.
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IMG_2165Rafters and kayakers passing through Half Moon Riffle.

IMG_2171One of Jerry’s Rogue Jets out of Gold Beach. These boats turn around at Blossom Bar Rapids.

We turned around above Half Moon Bar, approximately 4 miles from the official trailhead.
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We stuck to the Rogue River Trail on the way back, keeping our eyes out for snakes (again no rattlesnakes despite this being a prime area for them) and lizards.
IMG_2182Alligator lizard

IMG_2187Wine-cup clarkia

IMG_2207A few fluffy clouds moving in.

IMG_2221Stair Creek Falls on the way back.

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IMG_2234Mule Creek Canyon

Our hike came in at 9.8 miles with only 250′ of elevation gain, but we felt the heat (mid to upper 80’s) which made the hike feel quite a bit harder than it looked on paper.

We had left open the possibility of stopping at the Rogue River Ranch on our way to Roseburg but by the time we had gotten changed at the car all we wanted to do was get to our motel and then find a Dairy Queen for some ice cream so that’s what we did. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Rogue River West

Categories
Grants Pass Area Hiking Oregon Trip report

Rogue River Trail from Grave Creek – 05/01/2023

For our first week of vacation this year we planned a trip to Grants Pass to continue working toward our goal of finishing all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2. (post)

On the way down to Grants Pass we kicked off our week of hikes with a portion of the Rogue River Trail starting at the Grave Creek Boat Ramp.
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Sullivan includes three hike options for his Rogue River East featured hike: a 4.2-mile out-and-back to Rainie Falls on the southern side of the Rogue, a 7-mile out-and-back to the Whiskey Creek Cabin on the Rogue River Trail, and a 23.2-mile one way option on the Rogue River Trail to Marial. The Rainie Falls hike was out due to the trail being damaged in the 2022 Rum Creek fire and the longer option wasn’t viable either for various reasons including a slide that currently has the trail closed roughly a mile upstream from Marial. That left the Whiskey Creek Cabin as our goal with an option to extend the hike if we felt like it.

Going into the trip there were two types of wildflowers that we hadn’t yet seen in bloom that we were hoping to find. One was red larkspur which I’d learned grew along the Rogue River Trail. As it turned out this was an easy one. When we climbed from the boat ramp to a set of signboards along the trail we immediately spotted some of the red larkspur blooming below the signs.
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IMG_6427Red larkspur with blue dicks in the background.

Wildflowers are running a few weeks behind this year but they were putting on a good display as we set off on the trail.
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IMG_6432Lupine

IMG_6438Red larkspur, madia, blue dicks, and tomcat clover along the trail.

IMG_6441Blue dicks

IMG_6447Tolmie’s mariposa lily and some madia.

IMG_6450Larkspur and a red larkspur

IMG_6457Plectritis

IMG_6468Monkeyflower

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IMG_6471Serpentine phacelia

IMG_6476Naked broomrape

20230501_084500Camas with monkeyflower and plectritis

20230501_084332Fiddleneck

IMG_6490Saxifrage

20230501_084659A darker red larkspur

IMG_6514Some of the damage to the trail to Rainie Falls on the opposite side of the river.

IMG_6520Buttercups

IMG_6519Common whipplea

IMG_6521Silver crown

IMG_6530The wet rock here was sneaky slick.

20230501_090822We spotted a couple of pink larkspur.

IMG_6542Common mergansers

20230501_090733Common cryptantha

IMG_6553Starflower

IMG_6562Paintbrush

Del Norte irisDel Norte iris

IMG_6571Coastal manroot

IMG_6576Canada geese

All of that was over the first mile plus. At the 1.2-mile mark we came to a sign marking the high water mark from a 1964 flood and just beyond were the remnants of the former Sanderson Bridge which was destroyed in a 1927 flood.
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IMG_6578Looking back upriver from the high water sign.

IMG_6581Sanderson Bridge site

We continued on continuing to watch for additional wildlife and types of flowers.
IMG_6588Golden-crowned sparrow

IMG_6592Scarlet fritillary

Just over half a mile from the bridge site we came to a fork and a pointer for Rainie Falls. While we were aware that there was little to no view of the falls down this path we followed it down a tenth of a mile to the river.
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IMG_6608White campion

IMG_6609The only water we could make out on the far side of the river.

While there was no view of Rainie Falls we did spot a few colorful birds along the bank.
IMG_6619Bullock’s oriole

DSCN3272Yellow warbler

Yellow warblerYellow warbler

IMG_6620Sandy beach along the Rogue River.

After watching the birds for a bit we hiked back up to the Rogue River Trail and continued on reaching China Gulch in another half mile.
IMG_6626Shooting star

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IMG_6632California groundcone

IMG_6640Small-flowered woodland-star

IMG_6641Approaching China Gulch

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From China Gulch it was approximately 1.2-miles to Whiskey Creek and the side trail to the cabin.
IMG_6646Vetch

IMG_6648Wallflower

SilverpuffsSilverpuffs

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IMG_6656This manzanita was particularly striking in person.

Hairy pinkHairy pink

DSCN3304Robin

IMG_6678Rafts at Whiskey Camp.

IMG_6681Whiskey Creek

IMG_6683Footbridge over Whiskey Creek

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IMG_6687Sign at the spur trail to the cabin.

We turned up the spur trail and followed it uphill for 500′ to the cabin.
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The initial cabin was built sometime around 1880 and improved/expanded over time to include a solar heated shower and insulated pantry. The cabin was lived in until the Bureau of Land Management purchased the deed in 1973.

After exploring the cabin and surrounding structures we decided to continue on the Rogue River Trail a bit further. We were trying to avoid getting to our accommodations in Grants Pass before check-in at 3pm so we decided to continue for another 15 to 20 minutes before heading back. We wound up hiking an additional 0.4-miles to Big Slide Camp.
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IMG_6706Del Norte irises

IMG_6710Big Slide Camp to the left.

IMG_6711Outhouse at Big Slide Camp.

DSCN3306Common mergansers

DSCN3308Snow on a ridge above the Rogue River Valley. (This was a sign of issues for us later in the week.)

We lingered a bit at the camp before heading back. As always, we kept our eyes open for anything we might have missed on our first pass.
IMG_6717Redwood sorrel along Whiskey Creek.

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IMG_6734Buiscuitroot

IMG_6737Passing the high water mark.

IMG_6761Arriving back at the trailhead.

Our hike here ended up being 8.7-miles with 450′ of cumulative elevation gain.

Aside from the rafters at Whiskey Creek Camp the only other people we saw were a pair of backpackers on their way out and a group of 15 on their way in. While we didn’t see any rattlesnakes (it was nice and cool out) we did pick up a couple of ticks along the way which we brushed off when spotted. Poison oak was present but easily avoidable.

We arrived at the Riverside Cabins in Grants Pass a little after 3pm. The six rentals were recently constructed and ours wound up being an excellent base of operations for the rest of the week.
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It was a good start to our vacation, and we were looking forward to more great hikes in the days to come. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Rogue River East

Categories
Hiking Medford/Ashland Area Oregon Trip report

Kenneth Denman Wildlife Area – 05/28/2022

Rain was forecast for the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend so we decided to visit the Kenneth Denman Wildlife Area. While Sullivan mentions the 0.7 Denman Nature Loop in the “more hikes” section of his “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Norther California” we were basing our hike on various postings by Boots on the Trail. Permits are required to park at the trailheads accessing the area and take two forms. To park at the wildlife area trailheads a $10 ODFW Wildlife Area parking permit is required. A cheaper (and easier to purchase) option is available by parking at TouVille Recreation Area managed by Oregon State Parks. The one drawback to this option is that TouVille opens at 7am while the wildlife area opens at 4am. Typically we try and get started as early as possible but we had been taking it easy (for us anyway) following our Wednesday hike at Mule Mountain (post) so a 7am start sounded just fine.

We purchased a permit from the self-service kiosk and parked at the end of park near the start of the quarter mile interpretive nature trail.
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A large tree trunk between the parking lot and outhouse is filled with holes made by acron woodpeckers who then jam acorns inside to save for later.
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IMG_1396Acorns in some of the holes.

IMG_1398On the nature trail.

The trail crossed a small stream on a footbridge which would be the way to go if you want to do the loop clockwise but we chose to go counterclockwise so it would hopefully be easier to follow the route described by VanMarmot from April this year (post).
IMG_1401The bridge

We turned right at the bridge and after passing through a grassy area we picked up a clearer trail.
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We followed this path to a “Y” at a fence marking the boundary of the Denman Wildlife Area.
IMG_1404Camas

IMG_1408Ash-throated flycatcher

IMG_1409Srub jay

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Passed through the fence and onto the Denman Interpretive Trail.
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IMG_1423Acorn woodpecker

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IMG_1427Death camas and vetch

One a several ponds along the trail fed by Military Slough.
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IMG_1431A second pond with Upper Table Rock (post) behind.

One thing we quickly picked up on was that the grass and under story had gone through quite a bit of growth between the April 6th trip report and now. This included plenty of poison oak which now often crowded the trail in brushier sections.
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The trail left the trees and climbed a hill where views opened up.
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IMG_1448Mt. McLoughlin

We got a little confused on the hillside where several paths went NE and one SW to a bench which we wandered over to before choosing one of the NE paths.
IMG_1453Common madia with Lower Table Rock (post) in the background.

IMG_1455Wildflowers near the bench.

IMG_1456Upper Table Rock

IMG_1462The viewpoint bench.

I think we chose a different one than VanMarmot had but the end result was the same as we wound up on duck boards passing another pond along Military Slough which we recognized from a photo.
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IMG_1473Wood duck

Not far from this pond the trail climbed to TouVille Road.
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IMG_1482Denman Trail at TouVille Road.

Following VanMarmot’s April hike we turned right along the road looking for a “very faded road” that headed north across the Agate Desert.
IMG_1484Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_1485Upper Table Rock from TouVille Road.

IMG_1486A swallow on a fence post with Mt. McLoughlin behind.

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IMG_1491Yet another pond along Military Slough.

IMG_1499A kingbird, most likely western.

IMG_1500A pair of hawks near the pond.

We found a faint road which we assumed was the one we were looking for and turned left onto it.
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In the pictures we’d seen from early April the old road was faint but visible passing through the short grass but that grass had grown since then making the road even harder to pick out.
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20220528_081438I I believe this is a paintbrush, possibly Castilleja tenuis – hairy Indian paintbrush.

IMG_1509Mourning doves

We wound up losing track of the roadbed as we neared a small depression where a seasonal creek supported more brush and trees. We could see from VanMarmot’s track that they had turned SE following along this seasonal creek before crossing it and turning back to the NW. While it hadn’t rained on us yet walking through the tall wet grass here provided enough water to soak our lower halves and we both had run ins with turkeys that startled us when they burst out of the grass near us.
IMG_1510Looking back at Upper Table Rock with the stream bed in the trees/brush to the right.

We eventually reached the end of the thick brush and made our loop near a couple of old fence posts.
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Now that we were on the other side of the stream bed we picked up a much clearer trail.
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IMG_1513Mt. Ashland (post) peaking through a hole in the clouds.

IMG_1515Mt. Ashland

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IMG_1522Ookow

We veered left sticking as close to the stream bed as possible passing through a fence with an orange “Safety Zone” sign.
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We wound up on an old gravel road that passed by a dozen old bunkers left over from when the area had been a WWII training camp. VanMarmot had followed a horse trail out to TouVille Road and then doubled back along this gravel road but it wasn’t entirely clear if they had been on this road briefly before picking up the horse trail or if we had missed it. We did see a trail leading uphill near where we had arrived at the road but that trail had quite a bit of poison oak hanging over it and not being used to hiking with it so prevalent and also not knowing for sure if it was the right trail we decided to stick to the gravel road and follow it to TouVille Road.
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IMG_1526Bunker 6

IMG_1538Jack rabbit

IMG_1542Unsure what type of bird this is.

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IMG_1547Trailhead just off TouVille Road.

We couldn’t tell where exactly the horse trail was here either so we simply back-tracked along the road only this time taking a fork to the left to visit a few more bunkers.
IMG_1549The fork where we went left.

IMG_1554Passing another bunker.

IMG_1559Lupine

We passed a small trail leaving the road but didn’t realize that it was the trail we were looking for and wound up completing a small loop before realizing our mistake. We back-tracked again and left the road on the trial we’d seen.
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IMG_1568White tritellia

This trail quickly forked and it took us a few minutes of map consulting to decide we should take the left hand forked vs climbing up the small slope on the right.
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This was the path we wanted as it passed through a row of old oak trees.
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We popped onto another gravel roadbed and followed it to the right looking for a trail heading north (left) that would take us toward Little Butte Creek. We completely missed that turn and wound up at a parking area off Agate Road.
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We considered our options and decided to walk north along Agate Road to another pullout next to the creek.
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Things got interesting here. Trails led west along the creek here, presumably used mostly by fishermen but not too often from the looks of it. They were very overgrown causing us to make some contorted movements in an attempt to avoid contacting any of the poison oak in the area.
IMG_1598Occasional open areas were followed by thick brush with poison oak hidden among the other vegetation.

IMG_1602This section at least had hoof prints.

We popped out onto the gravel road that we had followed to Agate Road and were given a brief respite from dodging poison oak.
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We turned right and in 100 yards, when the road veered left stayed straight to follow a path to Little Butte Creek.
20220528_100551More ookow

IMG_1615Headed down to the creek.

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IMG_1618Little Butte Creek

20220528_101825Bachelor button near the creek.

20220528_101854Another bachelor button

We returned to the road and continued west which soon ended. There were two trails to choose from the furthest from the creek having a sign naming it the Butte Creek Trail.
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Given this trail was at least named we chose it and followed it for a mile to TouVille Road. There was plenty of poison oak to avoid along this stretch as well but we also spotted a great horned owl that kept an eye on us while we took some pictures.
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IMG_1633Nookta rose surrounded by poison oak.

20220528_102745Don’t touch!

IMG_1639Maiden fly

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IMG_1658Sign for a Paddle Wheel Trail which we couldn’t really see in the grass.

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IMG_1662TouVille Road

We crossed the road back onto the Denman Nature Trail and followed it a quarter mile to the TouVille Recreation Area Interpretive Nature Trail.
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IMG_1665Bench near the confluence of Little Butte Creek and the Rogue River.

IMG_1674Rogue River on the left and Little Butte Creek on the right.

20220528_110503Pale flax

IMG_1676Exiting the Denman Wildlife Area.

IMG_1679The Rogue River along the TouVille Interpretive Nature Trial.

IMG_1680Back to the bridge near the parking area.

The route that we had tried to follow would have been a 6 mile irregularly shaped loop. With several mistakes requiring extra hiking we managed to turn it into a 7.2 mile hike that only resembled our original plan.

Despite the missteps (and dodging poison oak) this was a fun hike with a lot of wildlife sightings including one deer. The rain that had been forecast didn’t materialize until later in the day and we only dealt with a couple of brief periods of sprinkles. Surprisingly we saw no ticks despite all the hiking through tall grass so that was a big plus. We wound up trying the Thai Bistro that evening for dinner which we enjoyed and provided another night of leftovers for the next day after our planned hike at Applegate Lake. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Denman Wildlife Area

Categories
Hiking Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Oregon Trip report

Rogue River Trail – Big Bend to Clay Hill – 05/14/2021

Day two of our Southern Oregon Coast extended weekend had us visiting the Rogue River Trail for the first time. We were admittedly a bit apprehensive about this hike as we had hiked another river trail (the Illinois) in the area around the same time of year in 2016 and had been overrun with ticks on that outing. This turned out to be a much more pleasant outing with just a single tick needing to be flicked off Heather which she promptly flicked straight at me.

We started our hike at the Big Bend/Foster Bar Trailhead at the western end of the Rogue River National Recreation Trail.
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It was a beautiful morning as we set off on the trail in the forest skirting a pasture.
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IMG_4221Madia

IMG_4225Blue dicks

Near the half mile mark the trail passed below the Illahe Lodge where a couple of deer had their eyes on us.
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The trail passed through a fence that was booby trapped with poison oak.
IMG_4507The poison oak trap in the afternoon.

While the relative absence of ticks was great we still aren’t accustomed to hiking with the amount of poison oak that tends to be present in the southern part of the State but we’re working on that. This hike was a good test as the majority of the first 4.5 miles of the trail passed through quite a bit of vegetation that more often than not included poison oak. We weren’t entirely sure what to make of the hikers we saw in shorts or pants that left open skin near the calves and ankles, were we being too paranoid or are they crazy? The first four miles also included a couple of climbs to bypass private land which limited the views of the river quite a bit.
IMG_4234Bridge over Billings Creek.

20210514_072347Del Norte iris

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IMG_4278Tolmie’s mariposa lily

20210514_074548Douglas iris with insect.

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IMG_4300More mariposa lilies (with a poison oak background)

IMG_4303Thimbleberry

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IMG_4315The Rogue River from the trail during one of the climbs.

20210514_091222Henderson’s stars

IMG_4328One of dozens of lizards we saw (or heard).

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We watched a number of rafts float by and later learned that it was the last weekend to float the river without needing a permit so it was an extra busy weekend.
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We had honestly been a little underwhelmed with the trail as we reached the bridge over Flea Creek at the 4.5 mile mark. We had equated the Rogue River Trail with the dramatic views we’d seen in others photos but the section of trail up to now was short on those.
IMG_4339Footbridge over Flea Creek

Things changed in a hurry beyond Flea Creek though as the views opened up a bit before the trail arrived at Flora Del Falls less than a quarter mile later.
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We took an extended break at the falls before continuing on another 1.75 miles to the Clay Hill Lodge where we decided to turn around. The scenery was now excellent, exactly what we had been hoping for but it was warmer than we were used to and we had more hiking to do over the next couple of days so as tempting as continuing on was, the lodge made for a good turnaround point.
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20210514_094757Oregon sunshine

20210514_095219Elegant brodiaea

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IMG_4388Yarrow

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IMG_4398Bindweed

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IMG_4407Poppies

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IMG_4439Clay Hill Lodge

IMG_4441Rafts in Clay Hill Rapids

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IMG_4462Winecup clarkia

We saw our only snake of the day on our return trip when we spotted our first ring-necked snake in the trail.
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The rafts seemed to have given way to Jet Boats which we could hear coming well before we saw them.
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We stopped again at Flora Del Falls where I was tormented by a swallow tail that just wouldn’t land.
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IMG_4489One of the dozens of photos I took trying to get the swallow tail in flight.

After the break we headed back to the trailhead. We were trying to come up with markers to break up the 4.5 mile section and Heather remembered that Sullivan had said that there were 5 bridge crossings over named creeks. We ignored the “named creeks” detail and began counting bridges down from 5. There were well more than 5 bridge, closer to a dozen but only 5 crossed “named creeks”. Either way we made it back to the car (and past a few cows) finishing a very nice 12.9 mile hike just after 2:15pm.
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After staying in Gold Beach the night before we were now headed north to Bandon for a couple of nights. We stopped for dinner in Port Orford at the Crazy Norwegian on a recommendation from Heather’s Dad. We shared a clam chowder and split the fish and chips. They were wonderful, a perfect ending to our day.

We found out a couple of days later that we had missed running into the folks from Boots on the Trail, one of our favorite hiking blogs. They had been hiking the entire trail one way and would be doing this section on Saturday the 15th, one day after our hike. We have wondered if that might happen sometime when we are down in that area and it almost did. Maybe next trip. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Rogue River Trail – Big Bend to Clay Hill Lodge

Categories
Hiking Old Cascades Oregon Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trip report

Hershberger Mountain, Rabbit Ears, and Natural Bridge – 10/16/2020

We had a full itinerary scheduled for the second day of our Union Creek trip with three stops planned. We had originally planned on stopping first at the Rabbit Ears which are about 10 miles from Union Creek along Forest Road 6515. From Union Creek we drove north on Highway 62 to Highway 230 where we continued north on that highway for .9 miles before turning left and crossing the Rogue River on Forest Road 6510 (Hershberger Road). After 1.6 miles we forked right onto Forest Road 6520 and in another half mile turned left onto Forest Road 6515 (shown on Google Maps as Road 299). DO NOT rely on Google maps to get you to either Rabbit Ears or Hershberger Mountain. Not only is the road number incorrect but after approximately 4.5 miles it is misidentified on Google maps which shows the road making a hairpin turn to the left and shows no other existing roads. In reality this is a 4-way junction with FR 6515 continuing as a slight left. A total of 5.6 miles after turning onto this road we came to an actual hairpin curve to the left around a small meadow. To the right was a small parking area for the Rabbit Ears, but it was still a bit dark out to start hiking so we decided to change our plans and head up to Hershberger Mountain first. To reach Hershberger Mountain we needed to continue another mile on FR 6515 and turn right onto FR 580 for what Sullivan described as 1.8 steep, rough miles. We originally missed the part about the right turn after a mile and wound up passing FR 580 which was also marked as an OHV trail. After going more than 1.8 miles the wrong way we turned on our GPS unit to confirm our location then reread the book and found our error. We turned around and drove back missing FR 580 again thinking it was strictly an OHV trail and not an actual road but this time we quickly caught our mistake, turned around again and were finally back on track. A 2017 wildfire burned much of this area and along most of FR 580 which was in pretty bad shape with a number of large waterbars, some deep enough that the front bumper our our Subaru Outback scrapped the ground ever so slightly so passenger cars probably shouldn’t try it. When the 1.8 miles was up we came to a parking area on the left side of the road with some trails signs and a truck.
IMG_7144Sunrise from the parking area.

Two trails left the parking area, the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail and the Acker Divide Trail.
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We would be taking the Acker Divide Trail but first we wanted to visit the lookout on Hershberger Mountain so we continued up FR 580 toward the lookout.
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We could have driven the .8 miles up to a parking area just below the lookout but 1.8 miles of FR 580 had been enough. This stretch may actually have been in a little better shape but then again we were only walking on it and not trying to drive.
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The lookout tower is available on a first come first serve basis and with the truck at the parking area below we weren’t sure if someone was using it so we didn’t go in but we did explore the area around it.
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The views were great which was a nice change to our Labor Day trip to Rattlesnake Mountain where smoke ruled the views. (post)

IMG_7160Mt. Bailey, Howlock Mountain, and Mt. Thielsen

IMG_7162Arant Point, Union Peak, Goose Egg, Klamath Point, Lee Peak, Devils Peak, Pelican Butte, Lucifer Peak, Venus, Rabbit Ears, Mt. McLoughlin, and Mt. Shasta (among others).

IMG_7166Mt. McLoughlin and Mt. Shasta

IMG_7163Rabbit Ears

IMG_7169Sun over Crater Lake National Park

While up near the lookout I noticed a sign along the rocky ridge to Hershberger Mountain’s summit.
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I headed for the sign and then continued onto the summit on a user path.
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From the summit I could make out Rattlesnake Mountain (post) behind some burned snags.
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Weaver Mountain just to the left of the snags with Rattlesnake Mountain behind to the right and Fish Mountain the furthest right.

IMG_7195Survey marker at the summit.

IMG_7197The sign, lookout, Rabbit Ears, Mt. McLoughlin, and Mt. Shasta coming back from the summit.

As I was coming back the unbelievable happened. For the second day in a row a varied thrush held still long enough for me to get decent picture.
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I rejoined Heather near the lookout and we hiked back down to our car and after taking a few more sips of the coffee we’d left in it we started down the Acker Divide Trail.
IMG_7205Acker Divide Trail leaving FR 580.

The trail quickly entered the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness.
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The trail dropped quickly losing nearly 300′ in the first .4 miles where the trail crossed a small stream at the edge of a meadow.
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The meadow was what we have come to picture when we think of this particular wilderness. Faint tread with a few cairns led us through the meadow and into a section of green trees.
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IMG_7216Another cairn to the right of the tree ahead.

Beyond the meadow the trail leveled out a bit and just over a mile and a half from the trailhead we passed a sign for the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail.
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I believe that the 2 mile section beyond this sign may be abandoned. On the map it leads to the edge of the wilderness near the junction of FR 6515 & FR 580 but according to the Forest Service and a sign we saw at a horse camp along FR 580 the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail follows FR 580 between that horse camp and the trailhead we were parked at. In any event we stuck to the Acker Divide Trail arriving at a meadow below Toad Lake in another .4 miles.
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IMG_7234A lonely flower along the Acker Divide Trail

IMG_7236Mushroom near the meadow.

IMG_7245Toad Meadow

Another .4 miles brought us within view of the Cripple Creek Shelter at the edge of the fire scar.
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We made our way to the shelter where we took a nice break and enjoyed the surroundings.
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IMG_7258Tis the time of year for Mushroom to replace flowers.

We returned the way we’d come keeping our eyes out for mushrooms and any lingering flowers that might yet be blooming.
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IMG_7271Candyflower

Our hike here came in at 6.8 miles and approximately 1200′ of elevation gain. After successfully navigating FR 580 again we stopped at the Rabbit Ears pullout and followed a path into the trees.
IMG_7274Pullout along FR 6515

IMG_7275Trail to Rabbit Ears

In a tenth of a mile the patch split and we chose to go right which brought us to the base of the rock formation.
IMG_7284The split

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The trail then turned uphill on some loose rock which made us happy that we’d chosen to go this direction because we felt going up it would be easier than coming down.
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IMG_7295We were surprised to find these phlox blossoms still looking good.

From the high point we had a pretty good view of Mt. McLoughlin and Mt. Shasta to the south.
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Continuing on the trail brought us a view of Fish Mountain to the north before the trail dropped back down into the trees to complete the loop.
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20201016_114550_HDRSmaller rock formation along the trail.

The half mile loop was really nice. Getting to see the Rabbit Ears up close was interesting and the added bonus of mountain views and surprise phlox was icing on the cake. We then drove back to Union Creek and parked at the lodge where we were staying since our next hike started just across the highway.
IMG_7329Beckie’s Cafe across Highway 62.

IMG_7332The lodge, store, and gift shop at Union Creek Resort.

We crossed the highway to the seasonally closed ice cream shop and followed a path on its right side to the Rogue Gorge Viewpoint parking area.
IMG_7331The Ice Cream shop and to it’s right the sign for the trail to the Rogue Gorge Viewpoint.

IMG_7337Interpretive signs at the parking area.

A .2 mile paved loop offers a short but spectacular option for a quick tourist stop with several viewpoints of the Rogue Gorge. We did the loop counter-clockwise heading first to viewpoint 4.
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IMG_7344Viewpoint 4

IMG_7352Rogue River at viewpoint 4.

IMG_7358Viewpoint 3

IMG_7359View upriver from viewpoint 3.

IMG_7361Downriver from viewpoint 3.

IMG_7369Interpretative sign at the viewpoint.

IMG_7370The lava tubes.

IMG_7373Viewpoint 2

IMG_7380Viewpoint 1 above the end of the Rogue Gorge.

From viewpoint 1 the paved path crossed a footbridge before arriving at the interpretative sign boards at the parking area. The Rogue Gorge Trail, which we took, continued as a dirt trail descending to the riverbank and continuing downstream.
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For the next 1.2 miles the Rogue Gorge Trail followed the river closely as it passed a number of cabins and a portion of the Union Creek Campground. This section of the Rogue River flowed quietly past a wonderful display of Fall colors.
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IMG_7425Union Creek Campground

At the end of the 1.2 mile stretch we arrived at Union Creek (the actual creek) and crossed it on a footbridge.
IMG_7428The orange sign and flagging was for a 50k being run the following day.

IMG_7429Union Creek

Beyond the footbridge was a 1.7 mile stretch of trail passing more of the campground and some other cabins before arriving at a footbridge spanning the Rogue River.
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As we neared the bridge the river became wilder as it passed over and through more lava flows.
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IMG_7472A Clark’s nutcracker

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IMG_7488The footbridge to the upper left.

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The footbridge offered an opportunity for a 2.2 mile loop using the Upper Rogue River Trail and passing Natural Bridge. For now we stuck to the Rogue Gorge Trail and continued past the footbridge.
IMG_7496Rogue River on the other side of the footbridge.

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About a mile from the footbridge we came to a sign at what looked like a fork in the trail.
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We took the right hand fork sticking to the river bank where a gentleman was walking his dog. The trail petered out on some rocks along the river.
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It was easy enough to walk over the rocks though so we continued on not realizing that we were very close to Natural Bridge which in the past had been the way across the river but has been closed and replaced by another footbridge.
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We turned inland on an old road bed still not realizing we were off course until it petered out and we discovered we were on the wrong side of a fence.
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When we saw the fence we realized that we should have forked left at that sign so we made our way to the correct side of the fence and quickly picked up a paved path coming from the Natural Bridge Day Use Area.
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The paved path brought us to the Upper Rogue River Trail which we took to the footbridge across the river.
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The Rogue Gorge had been spectacular but Natural Bridge added the element of oddity to the mix as the river disappeared under the lava rock only to reappear a short distance later.
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IMG_7565The inlet

Beyond Natural Bridge the Upper Rogue River Trail decided to gain some elevation as it climbed steeply gaining 300′ before dropping back down to the other footbridge. The climb did provide a brief glimpse of Llao Rock along the rim of Crater Lake.
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We turned off the Upper Rogue River Trail to cross the footbridge and return to the Rogue Gorge Trail.
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We turned left on the Rogue Gorge Trail and followed it back to Union Creek. Instead of crossing the creek this time we turned right onto the Union Creek Trail.
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The Union Creek Trail followed the creek closely for .7 miles through the Union Creek Campground. The trail actually passed through some campsites but this section of the campground was closed for the season so all of the sites were empty.
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The trail crossed Union Creek on a footbridge near the campground entrance.
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On the far side of the bridge was a parking area near the Union Creek Amphitheatre where they were setting up for the 50k.
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Just up the road from the parking area here a short path led to another parking are near Beckie’s Cafe where we simply walked up to the take out window and ordered dinner and a piece of pie.
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The pie was as good as I had hoped it would be having read about it from Boots on the Trail. After dinner we walked across the highway and into our room at the Union Creek Resort Lodge. It had been another day of nice hikes in this area. We were growing more and more impressed with the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness (despite the lack of trail maintenance). There was something about that wilderness that just felt peaceful. We went to bed looking forward to another visit to it the following day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hershberger Mountain and Natural Bridge

Categories
Hiking Old Cascades Oregon Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trip report

National Creek Falls and Takelma Gorge – 10/15/2020

As the strangest hiking season we’ve experienced winds down we took our final long distance (over 3 hours away) trip of the year for a long weekend of hiking around Union Creek, OR. Recent rains had knocked down the wildfires for the most part but those rains had given way to a sunny forecast which made for promising hiking conditions. We kicked off our hikes with a stop at the National Creek Falls Trailhead.
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Located just west of Crater Lake National Park National Creek Falls is spring fed from water absorbed by the Park’s pumice plain. A short .4 mile trail descends from the trailhead to the creek just below the falls.
IMG_6881There was just a little bit of blowdown to navigate on the way down.

IMG_6884National Creek Falls

On a warmer day we would have loved to stay for a bit and possibly wade across the creek to get a full view of these impressive falls but it was in the mid 30’s this morning and with the moisture generated by the falls we quickly became uncomfortably cold. We settled for the view we could get from the creek side and retreated back up to our car and turned the heat on full blast.
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When enough feeling had returned to my hands to grip the steering wheel we returned to Highway 230 following it south to its end at Highway 62 then continued south on that highway past Union Creek to Woodruff Meadows Road (between mileposts 51 and 52). We turned right onto this paved road for one and three quarters of a mile to a small pullout just past the Woodruff Bridge Day Use Area and a bridge over the Rogue River (parking is also available in the day use area).
IMG_6895Signboard at the pullout.

We were here to do Sullivan’s Takelma Gorge hike (#32 in the 4th edition “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California”). In his book he suggests a quick detour to a small fall beneath the bridge so we crossed the road and made our way down to the river bank to view the cascade.
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We then recrossed Woodruff Meadows Road and headed south along the river on the Upper Rogue River Trail.
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The mile and a half to Takelma Gorge had many river views with lots of fall colors lining the banks. There was also a varied thrush sighting that actually resulted in a few decent pictures (these birds are my nemesis when it comes to getting photos).
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As we neared the gorge the river began to be squeezed through channels created by lava flows.
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IMG_6962Rogue River emerging from a channel.

Takelma Gorge is also the result of a lava flow where the Rogue turns a sharp corner and blasts down the gorge.
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The trail follows along the rim of the gorge passing a couple of viewpoints over the next .9 miles.
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IMG_7029Rogue River emerging from Takelma Gorge.

Either end of the gorge could have been turn around points but the Upper Rogue River Trail continues and so did we. From the southern end of Takelma Gorge it was just over two miles to the River Bridge Campground which we planned on making our turn around point. The nearly level trail remained close enough to the river to provide plenty of views.
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Just under a mile from the gorge we passed the Rogue Baptist Camp.
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IMG_7053Ouzel

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IMG_7064River Bridge

We turned around at the campground and headed back.
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It was a beautiful day and somehow the colors and the gorge were even more impressive on the return hike.
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When we got back to Woodruff Bridge we noticed some flagging and signage along the trail that had not been there earlier. Apparently there was a 50k race scheduled for Saturday (10/17). The race was an out and back starting and ending in Union Creek. The fact that the race would be happening Saturday helped us decide that Friday we would be doing the Natural Bridge hike since that would have us on trail following part of the race course.

We drove to Union Creek where we checked into the Union Creek Resort then after getting settled we walked across Highway 62 to get dinner from Beckie’s Cafe. After a thoroughly enjoyable dinner we decided to check out the area behind the cafe which was actually part of our next day’s hike. We managed to get ourselves turned around in the Union Creek Campground and our little after dinner stroll turned into a nearly mile out and back along Union Creek. It had been a nice start to the long weekend and we were looking forward to what the next day had to bring. Happy Trails!

Flickr: National Creek Falls and Takelma Gorge

Categories
Hiking Medford/Ashland Area Oregon Trip report

Mill Creek Falls, Lost Creek Lake, and Lower Table Rock

For our second day of our extended weekend in Medford we had planned on doing a pair of hikes to the north of town. The plan was to do a short warm-up hike at Mill Creek Falls then do a longer hike along Lost Creek Lake. As the title of this post indicates our plans changed during the course of the day and we wound up adding Lower Table Rock to the itinerary.

We started our day by driving Highway 62 from Medford just beyond milepost 42 where we turned right on Mill Creek Road and followed signs for a mile to the Mill Creek Falls Trailhead.

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A wide path led downhill a short distance to a signed junction.

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We headed right following the pointer for the falls reaching a viewpoint of 174′ Mill Creek Falls after .2 miles.

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We continued another .2 miles where we arrived at a rock outcrop whith a view of the taller (total of 3 drops), more complex, Barr Creek Falls.

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After a short stay at this viewpoint we headed back to the junction and took the left fork toward the Avenue of Giant Boulders. After a quarter mile we arrived at a sign pointing left to the boulders and right for access to the Rogue River.

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We headed right first, arriving at a little beach along the raging river.

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We then made our way over to the Avenue of Giant Boulders. The boulders location here is a result of Mt. Mazama’s eruption which resulted in Crater Lake which is over 20 miles from this location.

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The hike to the falls and the boulders came in as 1.6 miles on our Garmin leaving plenty of gas in our tanks for the planned longer hike at Lost Creek Lake. From the Mill Creek Falls Trailhead we returned to Highway 62 and headed back toward Medford. Just before reaching a bridge over the Rogue River at Lost Creek Lake, we turned right onto Lewis Road for a mile to the Lewis Road Trailhead.

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Our plan was to take the Rogue River Trail along the lake to Lost Creek and back with a brief side trip to Blue Grotto at the 2.4 mile mark.

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The level trail was lined with various wildflowers (and plenty of poison oak) and offered occasional views of Lost Creek Lake and back to Needle Rock and its rock arch.

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Shortly after we passed a grassy hillside covered with yellow flowers I started noticing ticks.

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From that point on, until we reached the side trail to Blue Grotto, I picked up a decent number of the little parasites. It was beginning to remind us a little too much of our visit to the Illinois River the year before.

We turned up the .1 mile path to Blue Grotto and followed it to its end.

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This unique spot is another result of Crater Lake’s volcanic history. Ash from that volcano gives the rocks their color.

When we got back to the Rogue River Trail we faced a choice. We could stick with our original plan and continue another 3.4 miles to the Lost Creek Trailhead before heading back or we could declare victory here and head back now. The tick situation ahead could have been better but maybe not and we’d made it to the Blue Grotto, which was the featured attraction in our guidebook, so we decided to head back. We continued to see (and flick off) some ticks on the return trip but we also saw some more welcome wildlife.

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We were back at the Lewis Road Trailhead before 11:45am so we decided to pick out another hike to do on the way back to Medford. Our choice was Lower Table Rock.

From Lost Creek Lake we drove toward Medford to Highway 234 which we followed to Table Rock Road where we turned left and followed pointers to the trailhead just off of Wheeler Road.

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Upper Table Rock was just across some fields from the trailhead.

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The wide trail climbed gradually, at first, through wildflower dotted grasslands.

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As the trail neared Lower Table Rock it steepened, climbing up into a forest of oak and madrone trees.

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The trees began to thin near the top of the mesa, which we reached after 1.5 miles.

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The Table Rocks are known for their Spring wildflower displays and are home to some endangered species. We were a little concerned that we might be too late to see much in the way of flowers but those fears were quickly wiped away.

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An earlier spring visit would have provided different flowers and possibly a better show but the fields of winecup clarkia were spectacular and as were the displays of elegant brodiaea.

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An old airstrip is used as the trail on the mesa. Just beyond a boardwalk (to protect the vernal pools on the mesa) we turned left on a spur trail for .4 miles to an eastern viewpoint.

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From the viewpoint Upper Table Rock rose up amid the farmlands while snow helped identify some of the Cascade range despite some cloudy conditions.

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Mt. McLoughlin

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Peaks in the Sky Lakes Wilderness

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Crater Lake

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After returning to the airstrip we continued further along Lower Table Rock arriving at a southern viewpoint after about a mile.

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We watched as a number of rain showers passed by just waiting for the one that would finally drench us but all we ever got was a brief sprinkle.

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We stopped at the first south viewpoint for a while where we were joined by a ground squirrel.
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To the south was the snowy Mt. Ashland and Wagner Butte.

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and Dutchman Peak among others.

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A path led to the right following the rim out to a second viewpoint at the furthest end of the mesa.

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As it turned out the tick issues at Lost Creek Lake had turned out to be a blessing as we would not have experienced the wildflowers here otherwise. The clarkia and brodiaea stole the show but there had been others along the way.

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As great as the hike at Lower Table Rock was some of the things we witnessed there were not so great. First on the way up we passed a pair of young guys, one of which had a handful of flowers obviously picked from the mesa. Not cool. Then some fools had made cairns out of the rocks in the vernal pools, really not cool.

Next on our way back from the furthest viewpoint we noticed a couple with a dog at the other viewpoint despite the clear signs at the tailhead stating “No Dogs Beyond This Point”. Finally on our way down another young guy was busy chasing an alligator lizard through the brush. Harassing wildlife isn’t cool either but we did take a little comfort in watching the kid crash through and grab some poison oak. Hopefully the lizard got the last laugh.

We wish if people are going to visit these places that they would follow the rules and respect the areas. If they can’t do that it’d be nice if they just stayed home. Okay rant over, Happy Trails!

Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/9319235@N02/albums/72157684856053206

Categories
California Hiking Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Northern California Coast Oregon Trip report

Shrader Old Growth, Myrtle Tree, Lower Rogue River, and Yontocket

On the fourth day of our vacation we were changing our base of operations from Gold Beach, OR to Crescent City, CA. We planned on checking out of our motel in Gold Beach in the morning and doing three hikes along Jerry’s Flat Road before heading down to our next motel. So far the vacation had been going okay but each day had thrown some kinks our way and this day would do the same.

Our first stop was the Francis Shrader Old Growth Trail.
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The interpretive loop was just under a mile long. Brochures were available at the trailhead which we found to be very informative. It was probably the best interpretive trail we’d been on and would make a great hike for kids. Unfortunately our phones didn’t handle the low light conditions of the morning in the forest well so our photos were limited.
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To reach this trail we’d turned off of Jerry’s Flat Road 9.7 miles from Gold Beach onto Road 3300-090 for two miles. Our next stop was just across the Rogue River at the Myrtle Tree Trailhead. To get there we drove 100 feet further along Jerry’s Flat Road and turned left on Road 3310 crossing the river and turning right onto an unmarked road for less than a quarter mile to the signed trailhead.
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This trail was even shorter than the Old Growth Trail at just half a mile out and back. It climbed to Oregon’s largest known myrtle tree.
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Rough skinned newts and snails were numerous on the trail so we had to watch our steps.
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After visiting the tree we returned to Jerry’s Flat Road and followed it across the Rogue Rive to Road 375 where we turned left and followed it to Agness. We parked at the Agness Community Center/Library per the trail signs.
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We were a little nervous about our planned 6.2 mile hike here given it was almost the same time of year as our tick filled visit to the nearby Illinois River Trail the previous year.

The first part of the trail follows roads and paths through private property so following the trail signs was important.
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Candyflower and wild iris were in bloom along the trail.
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Poison oak was also a common sight.
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The trail had not been maintained yet this year and we encountered blowdown almost immediately after leaving the old roads. We were able to navigate the first few spots without having to deal with any of the poison oak but it meant being more in the brush and it wasn’t long before we’d each brushed off ticks.

After only a mile we came upon a large washout.
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I crossed it to see if I could easily pick out the continuation of the trail. It wasn’t obvious and no marking was visible so we considered our options and decided neither of us were too keen on continuing. We were unsure of the trail conditions further on so we turned around, went back to the car, and did a thorough tick check.

It was going to be too early to check in to our motel in Crescent City so we decided to pick out another hike from our guidebook that would be along our way. We chose to check out the the site of a former Native American village in Tolowa Dunes State Park.

We parked at a tricky trailhead to find along Pala Road. My best advice for finding it is to look at the park on Google Maps, find Pala Road near the NE end of the park and get driving directions. 🙂
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Pala Road passed through cow pastures which proved to be interesting on our drive out as we wound up in a heard of dairy cows on their way to be milked.
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As for the hike my left foot had gotten a little tender during the drive. I had been wearing an older pair of hiking shoes and they were really irritating a tendon or ligament on the outside of that foot. Every step shoved the shoe up against it and I was really having trouble walking.

We were headed for the village site which was located atop a small hill.
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We stopped at the picnic tables so I could put some bandages on my foot to try and cushion the contact before heading back downhill to a marked trail junction where we headed for the Smith River.
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The scenery in the area was great with several types of flowers blooming and many birds flying overhead including great white egrets and a bald eagle.
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The bandages weren’t helping so Heather came up with the idea of trading shoes. For the rest of the hike we each wore one of the others shoes which did provide some relief. We managed to make it to the Smith River which was less than a half mile from the village site.
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It was late enough now that we’d be able to check in to our room so we called it a day and I limped back to the car. When we got settled I iced my foot and we wondered what the next day had in store. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Shrader Old Growth, Myrtle Tree, Lower Rogue, and Yontocket

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Upper Rogue River Trail and Boundary Springs

Hike #2 on our mini-vacation was a visit to the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest and Crater Lake National Park. The plan was to start at the Mazama Viewpoint on Hwy 230 and first visit Boundary Springs which is where the Rogue River begins. Then we would hike down the Rogue River to Rough Rider Falls. We would have turned around there but my parents decided to come along and start at a different trail head and hike up the Rogue to the falls. They dropped us off at the Mazama Viewpoint before heading down to the lower trail head. This allowed us to continue past Rough Rider Falls and meet them at that spot.

It was a cloudy morning and we’d driven through a little rain/snow mix on the way there. An occasional light rain would continue all day long with a glimpse of blue sky thrown in every now and then. We started off on the Upper Rogue River Trail from the Mazama Viewpoint and followed the trail half a mile to a junction with the Boundary Springs Trail. Shortly after joining this trail we started getting glimpses of the Rogue flowing through the forest.
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We crossed the boundary of Crater Lake National Park and continued on toward the springs. The river was increasingly scenic as we went.
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Near Boundary Springs was a pretty waterfall:
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The river just below the springs:
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The largest of the springs:
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After poking around the springs we returned to the Upper Rogue River Trail and turned left to head down river to Rough Rider Falls. The trail started out far above the Rogue as it flowed through an interesting canyon.
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We came upon a couple of deer that were too quick for pictures and a pair of noisy woodpeckers that didn’t seem too pleased with one another.
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We also saw the best candysticks we’d come across:
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And a strange mushroom thing:
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The trail descended back down to the river which was amazingly clear where the water was calm.
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Once the trail lowered into the canyon it became a bit messy. Many downed trees created tricky obstacles and the trail was in need of some maintenance.
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It was 4.2 miles from the Boundary Springs Trail to Rough Rider Falls. A sign above the falls announced them.
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It was pretty above the falls but we couldn’t get a good feel for them until we descended below them.
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After Rough Rider Falls we passed a pretty little waterfall coming from a hillside into the river.
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A little island with whitewater on each side:
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And finally an unnamed waterfall:
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The strangest thing of the hike was the amount of climbing we felt like we did considering we were supposedly traveling downhill with the river. When we arrived at my parents car we discovered that they had just finished about 15 minutes earlier. There were some mosquitoes around the car so we quickly tossed our gear in the back and hopped in. We had hopped to stop by Crater Lake on the way home since Dominique has never seen it and it had been years since my parents had. We were there in 2012 but smoke from a fire had obscured most the views. With the weather flipping between blue sky and rain showers all day we weren’t sure if we would be able to see the lake but my parents had their National Park Pass with them so we decided why not give it a try. As we drove up to the north rim we entered the clouds and some more rain/snow mix. The visibility was worse than our previous visit so I took a couple of pictures to show we were then we turned around and headed home.
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We plan on heading back this Fall for another try and maybe then we'll be able to actually see the lake. Happy Trails!

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