Categories
Hiking Mt. Hood Area Oregon Trip report

Devil’s Peak Loop (Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness) – 10/07/2024

I have a little more vacation time than Heather which means flying solo from time to time. For those solo outings I try and pick hikes to places we’ve already visited or hikes that Heather doesn’t mind missing out on. The latter tend to either be long hikes (14+ miles) or have significant elevation gains >3000′, or a combination of both. One such hike that I’ve had my eyes on for a while was a long loop in the Salmon-Huckelberry Wilderness combining the Salmon River, Green Canyon Way, Hunchback, and Kinzel Lake Trails.

I began the loop at the Salmon River West Trailhead and started the loop clockwise on the Salmon River Trail.
IMG_5420Not having light until after 7am is rough for someone who likes to get an early start.

IMG_5421The Salmon River Trail is located next to this interpretive sign near the trailhead.

IMG_5422A flash was necessary as I set off.

We’d been on this section of trail in 2015. I followed this level path for half a mile to the Green Canyons Campground, another potential starting point for this hike.
IMG_5426There was a very brief road walk along this section.

IMG_5430There was also plenty of time along the Salmon River.

IMG_5431I veered right at this picnic table to cross into the campground.

IMG_5432The day use area at the campground.

I walked through the day use area to the campground entrance then crossed Salmon River Road to find the start of the Green Canyon Way Trail.
IMG_5433Water spigot at the day use area.

IMG_5436

IMG_5437It was hard to read the date for this cougar sighting, it appeared to be from June, but I couldn’t make out the year.

The Green Canyon Way Trail gains 2400′ in 3.2-miles to reach the Hunchback Trail, a 9.1-mile-long trail traversing Hunchback Ridge. Green Canyon Way was in pretty good shape, with just a few smaller trees to step over. The climb was well graded which kept it from ever feeling too steep.
IMG_5443Entering the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness

IMG_5449One of the downed trees, this one covered both sides of a switchback.

IMG_5454A rare viewpoint along the forested trail.

IMG_5456

IMG_5464A level stretch along a narrow ridge.

IMG_5467A healthy looking paintbrush.

IMG_5477The Sun rising above Hunchback Ridge.

IMG_5479It was going to a be a bluebird day.

IMG_5480Sign ahead marking the Hunchback Trail junction.

We had hiked a 5.6-mile section of the Hunchback Trail in 2020 starting at the trails north end at the Lower Hunchback Trailhead. I turned SE (right) at the junction and followed the trail up and down (mostly up) along Hunchback Ridge for 2.4-miles to a junction below Devil’s Peak.
IMG_5486

IMG_5491

IMG_5505One of the “downs”.

IMG_5507This trail was also in good shape with just a few easy obstacles.

IMG_5511I did not go investigate the source of the “water”, it could have been a trap (there is a spring shown on the map).

IMG_5512Signs at the junction below Devil’s Peak.

I detoured uphill to the right for 100 yards to the Devil’s Peak Lookout.
IMG_5523

We were here back in 2018 when the lookout was still open to the public for use. I took a short break here to take in the views before continuing the loop.
IMG_5516Mount Jefferson

IMG_5517Olallie Butte (post) and Mt. Jefferson

IMG_5518The lookout from the Mt. Jefferson viewpoint.

IMG_5519Mt. Hood from the lookout.

IMG_5521You can’t see Mt. Jefferson from the lookout due to trees.

I continued on the Hunchback Trail passing the Cool Creek Trail in another 105 yards and began a 1.25-mile descent to the Devil’s Peak Trailhead. Note that the drive to this trailhead requires traveling nearly 10 miles on an awful road that Sullivan describes as a “nightmare”.
IMG_5527Trail signs at the Cool Creek Trail junction.

IMG_5530

IMG_5534Lookout Mountain(post), Gunsight Butte (post), and Bonney Butte (post) along the far ridge.

IMG_5540Mt. Hood from the Hunchback Trail.

IMG_5543

IMG_5544Arriving at the trailhead on FR 2613.

IMG_5547It’s hard to make out in the photo but that is a giant pothole (crater) in the middle of the road seen from the trailhead.

A short walk along the roadbed led to the Kinzel Lake Trail on the right.
IMG_5548That is the trailhead at the end of the road on the right.

I turned down the Kinzel Lake Trail and after a third of a mile came to an unsigned junction with a spur trail to Kinzel Lake on the left.
IMG_5552

IMG_5550

IMG_5553

I turned down the spur trail which dropped steeply then made two more steep up and downs before arriving at an old campground at the small lake in a little over a quarter mile.
IMG_5554

IMG_5555

IMG_5559

IMG_5558

After checking out the lake I climbed back up to the Kinzel Lake Trail and continued downhill another two miles where I turned right on the Salmon River Trail.
IMG_5570There were some nice Fall colors along the Kinzel Lake Trail.

IMG_5572There were also a few obstacles that were trickier than anything on the other trails involved in this loop.

IMG_5575Salmon Butte (post)

IMG_5576

IMG_5580Nearing the Salmon River Trail.

IMG_5581Trail sign at the Salmon River Trail junction.

I turned right on the Salmon River Trail. We had hiked this section of trail during an overnight trip in 2018
IMG_5583

It was approximately 6-miles from the junction back to the trailhead. I bypassed most of the viewpoints this time since we’d visited them on previous trips, and this was already a long enough hike without adding more detours.
IMG_5588

IMG_5591There wasn’t much water at all in any of the side creeks.

IMG_5594

IMG_5595There are several viewpoints just over 3.5-miles from the trailhead.

IMG_5596The furtherst hump in the center is Huckleberry Mountain (post).

IMG_5605

IMG_5608Wilderness kiosk along the trail. There were self-issued permits here, but none at Green Canyon Way so I stopped and filled one out even though I was almost done with my hike (and out of the wilderness).

IMG_5610

IMG_5617

IMG_5619Salmon River

IMG_5625

IMG_5628There were a couple of good-sized fish in the pool here.

IMG_5632

IMG_5636The trail arriving back at the trailhead.

The first people I saw all day had been camped along the river near Goat Creek, and in total I saw less than 20 people, nearly all in the last three and a half miles. The hike itself showed 16.5-miles on the GPS and included over 4350′ of elevation gain.
Screenshot 2024-10-07 162129

This was a challenging but nice loop. My only wish is that it had been 15 to 20 degrees cooler. Clockwise was definitely the way to go in order to get the bulk of the climbing over with during the cooler morning hours. The Kinzel Lake Trail also seemed slightly steeper than the Green Canyon Way Trail making the climb up to Hunchback Ridge a little easier. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Devil’s Peak Loop

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Oregon Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trip report

Seven Lakes Basin Backpack – 09/09/23 & 09/10/2023

As we near our goal of finishing at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivans “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2 (post) there was one backpacking trip left. Sullivan’s Seven Lakes West and Seven Lakes East (hikes 38 & 39 in edition 4.2) start at trailheads on opposite side of the Cascade Crest but both contain a loop through the Seven Lakes Basin and a climb up Devil’s Peak in the Sky Lakes Wilderness. Aside from the different trailheads the only other difference is that he includes a visit to Lake Alta from the west trailhead.

We opted to begin from the eastern trailhead – Sevenmile Marsh. The primary reason for this was the trailhead is roughly half an hour closer to Salem but the Forest Service currently shows the status of the western trailhead (Seven Lakes) as unreachable. (This may simply be an oversight when updating their webpages, but it is a good reminder that it’s always a good idea to double check with the managing agencies before heading out.)
IMG_8838Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead

The trail descended to a crossing of Sevenmile Creek then climbed gradually along a hillside above Sevenmile Marsh, entering the Sky Lakes Wilderness along the way.
IMG_8843

IMG_8844Sevenmile Creek

IMG_8847Entering the wilderness

IMG_8849Sevenmile Marsh

The Sevenmile Trail climbed gradually through a nice forest for nearly two miles before joining the Pacific Crest Trail.
IMG_8853Lodgepole pines were the dominate trees along the first part of the trail.

IMG_8859Mountain hemlock took over as the trail gained elevation.

IMG_8860

IMG_8861Junction with the PCT.

We turned left onto the PCT and found ourselves losing a bit of elevation before beginning another gradual climb.
IMG_8864

IMG_8867There were a few downed trees along this section but nothing difficult to get around.

IMG_8874This twisted tree caught our attention.

IMG_8877Nice blue sky.

IMG_8878Lewis’s woodpecker way up in a snag.

After two miles on the PCT we arrived at Honeymoon Creek which resembled a small pond. Tadpoles splashed around in the mud while larger frogs hung out around the water.
IMG_8881

IMG_8883Tadpoles

IMG_8885Frog in the water.

IMG_8888

After another 0.6-miles on the PCT we arrived at a signed junction with the Seven Lakes Trail.
IMG_8893Trail sign ahead on the right.

Our plan was to set up camp at Cliff Lake then do the loop and summit Devil’s Peak as described by Sullivan. We could have turned right here and followed the Seven Lakes Trail 1.3-miles past Grass and Middle Lakes to Cliff Lake, but sticking to the PCT for another 0.7-miles then turning the Cliff Lake Trail would save us nearly a quarter of a mile. We decided to save Middle and Grass Lakes for our hike out the following morning and stayed straight on the PCT.
IMG_8898

IMG_8909Unnamed creek along the PCT. We were surprised at how many of the seasonal creeks still had flowing water.

IMG_8911Grass-of-parnassus

IMG_8914Huckleberries, there were a lot of these around the basin which we happily sampled.

IMG_8917Devil’s Peak poking up above the trees.

IMG_8920The Cliff Lake Trail.

We turned right onto the Cliff Lake Trail and descended a third of a mile to rejoin the Seven Lakes Trail a tenth of a mile from Cliff Lake.
IMG_8922

IMG_8923Prince’s pine

IMG_8926Another flowing seasonal creek.

IMG_8930Crater Lake collomia (Collomia mazama)

IMG_8936The Seven Lakes Trail arriving on the right.

IMG_8939Cliff Lake

At Cliff Lake we turned onto a use trail following it around the eastern side of the lake in search of a suitable campsite. While there were numerous sites most of the sites we were seeing were large enough for multiple tents. We didn’t want to take up one of the large sites with our single tent and we also didn’t want to wind up with neighbors if we could avoid it. We wound up getting separated in the process and after walking back and forth for a bit we found each other and settled on a campsite.
IMG_8944

IMG_8943Arnica

IMG_8946Aster

IMG_8947

IMG_8951Splash in Cliff Lake from one of many fish that were feeding on insects.

IMG_8953Camp

After getting set up we grabbed our daypacks and headed back to the Seven Lakes Trail. We decided to hike the loop clockwise which meant backtracking along the Seven Lakes and Cliff Lake Trails to the PCT and then turning right to continue southward.
IMG_8965Huckleberry bushes along the Cliff Lake Trail.

IMG_8967Anywhere there was water nearby there were lots of tiny Cascade toads to watch out for.

IMG_8969Back at the PCT.

IMG_8970

IMG_8973Larger frog

IMG_8982Monkshood

IMG_8985More grass-of-parnassus

IMG_8986Not only were the toads tiny, they also were well camouflaged.

The PCT climbed steadily providing the first glimpses of the peaks around Crater Lake.
IMG_8988Mount Scott (post) between the trees.

IMG_8990Mount Scott

IMG_8993The Watchman (post) and Hillman Peak (post)

IMG_8995The Watchman and Hillman Peak

IMG_9001Devil’s Peak

IMG_9010Union Peak (post) in the distance.

IMG_9014Cliff Lake with Violet Hill beyond.

IMG_9021Black backed woodpecker

IMG_9042Getting closer to Devil’s Peak.

IMG_9048A much bigger Cascade toad.

Near Devil’s Peak the PCT left the trees and switchbacked up a talus field resulting on great view to the north toward Crater Lake and beyond.
IMG_9052

IMG_9053

IMG_9056

IMG_9055Mt. Thielsen (post) in the center beyond the rim of Crater Lake.

IMG_9057Union Peak with Mt. Bailey (post) behind to the right.

IMG_9059Lots of neat rock formation on Devil’s Peak.

IMG_9062Western pasque flower seed heads.

IMG_9063

IMG_9069Buckwheat

Two and a half miles from the Seven Lakes Trail junction the PCT arrived at a pass. The final climb was fairly steep even with switchbacks, so a brief rest was in order at the pass.
IMG_9070

IMG_9071Views to the South opened up at the pass including Klamath Lake and Pelican Butte.

IMG_9076Klamath Lake

IMG_9084Devil’s Peak and the PCT coming up to the pass from the North.

IMG_9078Klamath Lake, Pelican Butte, Aspen Butte (post) over the right shoulder of Pelican, Brown Mountain (post) is the small cone on the right, and Mt. McLoughlin (post)

IMG_9079Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_9081A faint Mt. Shasta which, given the wildfires burning in NW California was a bit of a surprise to be able to see.

IMG_9085The view North.

IMG_9086Goose Egg and Ethel Mountain in the forefront with Llao Rock, Mt. Thielsen, and Garfield Peak (post) behind.

IMG_9090Devil’s Peak

While we were resting at the pass we heard a helicopter approaching from the NW. It wound up hovering low above the lakes basin before heading back the way it came.
IMG_9092We were a little concerned at first that it might be picking up water for a new fire but there wasn’t anything hanging from the helicopter so we have no idea what it was actually doing.

A path headed uphill from the pass toward Devil’s Peak while the PCT headed slightly downhill.
IMG_9080The use path to Devil’s Peak on the right and the PCT on the left.

We headed up the use trail which was fairly easy to follow with just one slightly sketchy narrow spot.
IMG_9099

IMG_9101The rather ominously named Lucifer from the use trail.

IMG_9104A second use trail coming up from the opposite side.

IMG_9105Western pasque flowers on the hillside above the use trails.

IMG_9107The summit of Devil’s Peak ahead.

The views were excellent from the summit so we took another nice break to soak them in before heading down.
IMG_9110Looking North toward Crater Lake and Mt. Thielsen

IMG_9111Lucifer, Jupiter, and Venus

IMG_9112Lee Peak above the pass.

IMG_9114Luther Mountain (post) in the foreground with Aspen Butte, Brown Mountain and Mt. McLoughlin.

IMG_9115Remains of a former lookout.

IMG_9116The PCT below Devil’s and Lee Peaks.

IMG_9127

IMG_9119Goose Egg, Llao Rock, and Mt. Thielsen

IMG_9120Mt. Scott

IMG_9130Mt. Shasta to South through a little smoke but again we felt fortunate to be able to see the mountain at all.

IMG_9125Colorful grasshopper at the summit.

American pipitAmerican pipit

We headed down taking the other use trail which angled down along a ridge to the PCT approximately a third of a mile from where we had left it to climb Devil’s Peak.
IMG_9136The Seven Lakes Basin from the use trail down.

IMG_9138South, Middle, North, and Grass Lakes

IMG_9151Heading down the use trail.

IMG_9153Looking back up the use trail.

When we reached the PCT we turned right and headed toward Lucifer.
IMG_9154

IMG_9162Western snakeroot along the PCT.

IMG_9157A comma butterfly on western snakeroot.

IMG_9160Painted lady

At a ridge below Lucifer we arrived at a signed trail junction.
IMG_9168

Here the PCT forked left toward Luther Mountain while the Devil’s Peak Trail forked right. We took the Devil’s Peak Trail and followed it 1.3-miles to the Seven Lakes Trail. Passing below Jupiter and Venus along the way.
IMG_9171Venus from the Devil’s Peak Trail.

IMG_9176Looking back at Devil’s Peak.

IMG_9179Looking North across the Seven Lakes Basin.

IMG_9181Lake Alta in a bowl below Violet Hill.

IMG_9185

IMG_9187Pond along the Devil’s Peak Trail.

IMG_9193Coming up to the Seven Lakes Trail junction. A rock cairn was the only marker.

We turned right onto the Seven Lakes Trail and descended 0.2 miles to a signed junction with the Alta Lake Trail.
IMG_9195

IMG_9196

We turned left onto the Alta Lake Trail. We followed this trail for a fairly level half mile to the long lake.
IMG_9201

IMG_9213

Heather took another break at the South end of the lake while I hiked another quarter mile along the lake to get a better look at the northern end.
IMG_9215I was still only about halfway along the lake after the quarter mile. There used to be a campground at the North end.

IMG_9217Common merganser

IMG_9216The southern end of Lake Alta.

On the way back to Heather I detoured to take in the view from the cliffs above the basin.
IMG_9221Cliff Lake below Devil’s Peak and Middle Lake.

IMG_9222Middle and Grass Lakes

IMG_9224I could hear several pikas in the rocks below the cliffs but the only thing I spotted was a chipmunk.

IMG_9223Chipmunk

After rejoining Heather we headed back to the Seven Lakes Trail and continued descending into the basin.
IMG_9230Sulphur butterfly on aster.

IMG_9237

20230909_171011Gentian

IMG_9245Fireweed

A mile from the Alta Lake Trail we arrived at South Lake.
IMG_9252

IMG_9256South Lake

Another quarter mile brought us to a view of Cliff Lake.
IMG_9259

IMG_9261Devil’s Peak from the trail. There were more pikas “meeping” from the rocks here but again we failed to spot any of them.

We followed the trail around to the North side of Cliff Lake and then turned on the use trail to return to our campsite.
IMG_9262

IMG_9266

Back at camp we refilled our water supply and had dinner then relaxed a bit before turning in for the night. For me this had been a 15.3-mile hike with 2000′ of elevation gain. One and a quarter of those miles was hiking from the Seven Lakes Trail to our camp, and initially wandering around looking for a site and Heather.
IMG_9280Devil’s Peak in the evening.

IMG_9282So many fish in the evening.

In the morning we packed up and headed back, this time sticking to the Seven Lakes Trail to visit Middle and Grass Lakes.
IMG_9285

IMG_9291Devil’s Peak in the morning.

IMG_9297Seven Lakes and Cliff Lake Trail junction.

IMG_9304We reached Middle Lake in 0.4-miles.

IMG_9305

IMG_9311We detoured left at the northern end of the lake following a pointer for Lake Ivern to find a view back across Middle Lake.

IMG_9312Devil’s Peak from Middle Lake.

We returned to the Seven Lakes Trail and in another half mile we passed views of Grass Lake.
IMG_9319Stream crossing.

IMG_9325Monkshood and grass-of-parnassus

IMG_9333Grass Lake

We didn’t follow any of the use trails down to Grass Lake and instead stuck to the Seven Lakes Trail as it climbed for 0.2 miles to the Pacific Crest Trail.
IMG_9337

IMG_9341Arriving at the PCT.

We turned left onto the PCT and returned to the Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead the way we’d come the day before. Of note were the ducks making use of the small pond along Honeymoon Creek.
IMG_9344

IMG_9347

IMG_9349Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_9353Sevenmile Trail at the PCT to return to the Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead.

IMG_9361Exiting the Sky Lakes Wilderness.

The hike out came to 6.1-miles with just 200′ of elevation gain.

The red section marks our track out past Middle and Grass Lakes

This was a great trip. The temperatures were pleasant, the views great, lots of huckleberries and only a few mosquitos. We also only saw a total of eight other people all weekend. We are now down to a half dozen featured hikes from the Southern Oregon/Northern California book and if conditions cooperate we may well be finished by November. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Seven Lakes Basin

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Jefferson Area Oregon

Bear Point – 7/22/2019

**Note the 2020 Lionshead Fire burned the area covered by this hike.**

We had passed the Bear Point Trail twice when hiking into Jefferson Park on the South Breitenbush Trail, most recently last August. (post) It was finally time to tackle that trail which gains almost 1700′ in just over one and three quarters of a mile to the site of a former fire lookout.

We set off from the South Breitenbush Trailhead a little after 6am hoping to get the climb over before the day heated up too much.
IMG_3859

IMG_3860

We followed the familiar South Breitenbush Trail for 2.2 miles to a signed junction.
IMG_3870Lots of spent beargrass along the trail.

IMG_3877

At the junction we went left on the Bear Point Trail.
IMG_3878

At first this trail continued the gradual climb that we’d been making on the South Breitenbush Trail as we passed around a spring set in a green forest.
IMG_3885

IMG_3886Thimbleberry bushes near the spring.

20190722_072357Washington lily

IMG_4179Spring near the trail.

Shortly after passing the spring the trail began to climb in earnest via a series of swithbacks. The hillside below Bear Point was covered in talus slopes, the perfect spot to see a pika.
IMG_3890

IMG_3891

IMG_3901Spotted the first pika of the day at this switchback (it’s on one of the red rocks)
IMG_3900

The hillside was pretty dry and the trees began to give way to manzanita, chinquapin and snowbush which allowed for some excellent views of Mt. Jefferson and the surrounding area as we trudged up the switchbacks.
IMG_3913

IMG_3918

IMG_3921The Three Pyramids, Bachelor Mountain, and Coffin Mountain in the distance with Triangulation Peak in a cloud shadow along the near ridge to the right.

IMG_3928Mt. Jefferson with Three Fingered Jack now fully visible.

IMG_3935Three Fingered Jack

IMG_4169Grouse in the brush to the left of the trail.

IMG_4171Grouse

IMG_3946

As we neared the top the trees began to reappear in larger numbers and the beargrass was still blooming.
IMG_3948

IMG_3965

We spotted the second pika of the day in a talus slope just below the summit.
IMG_3962

Despite the 3000′ of elevation gain to reach the summit the climb wasn’t particularly steep until the final 100 yards or so.
IMG_3967

IMG_3981Almost to the top.

IMG_3989Bear Point summit.

The views from the summit were amazing and there were a few wildflowers scattered about. We would have loved to have spent quite a bit of time relaxing there but the mosquitoes were a nuisance and there was no breeze to keep them at bay.
IMG_4143_stitch

IMG_4018The Three Sisters and Three Fingered Jack

IMG_4009Mt.Jefferson

IMG_4013Park Ridge (post)

IMG_3991Bear Lake, Dinah-Mo Peak, and Park Ridge

IMG_4146Triangulation Peak and Devils Peak

IMG_4148Boca Cave below Triangulation Peak (post)

IMG_4147Devils Peak (high point to the right of the ridge), which we had just hiked to a couple of weeks earlier (post)

IMG_4152Mt. Hood and Olallie Butte (The Breitenbush Cascades are also out there amid the trees.)

IMG_4137Mt. Hood with Slideout and Mildred Lakes in the forest below.

IMG_3986Fleabane

IMG_3996Columbine and fleabane with Bear Lake in the background.

IMG_4022Snow patch near the summit.

The round trip to Bear Point is just 7.6 miles so we had some energy left and with the early start coupled with not stopping for very long due to the bugs we also had some time so we decided to tackle another challenge and visit an off trail lake. Due to the lake being off-trail I’m not going to go into much detail although it probably wouldn’t take a lot of detective work to figure it out. This was a challenge to reach and required route finding and navigational skills.
IMG_4031Typical terrain, it’s hard to tell here but this was a steep hillside.

IMG_4023There were tons of these butterflies around.

IMG_4028Paintnbrush

IMG_4045Crossing a talus slope.

IMG_4050More typical conditions.

IMG_4053Pond near the lake.

IMG_4055Bird at the pond.

IMG_4058The lake

IMG_4076Spirea and shooting stars

20190722_094856Crab spider with a bee

IMG_4080The lake

IMG_4102Aster

IMG_4104Lupine and beargrass

There were of course mosquitoes here too, being July and near water, so we didn’t linger and were soon attempting to follow our route back. It was slow going but we managed to get back just fine. It was a fun and challenging day and it felt good to be able to practice our off-trail skills a bit. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Bear Point

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Jefferson Area Oregon

Breitenbush Cascades & Devil’s Ridge Trail – 7/13/2019

**Note the 2020 Lionshead Fire burned the area covered by this hike.**

We were looking for a relatively short, nearby hike so that we could get back to Salem early. It was Salem Summit Companys (our favorite local outdoor store)7th anniversary so they were having a sale, raffle, and free pizza. We turned to Matt Reeder’s “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mt. Jefferson Region” for inspiration and chose a pair of hikes not far outside of Detroit, OR.

Our first stop was at the Breitenbush Cascades. The trailhead for this short (a third of a mile) hike is located on one of the worst Forest Service roads in NW Oregon, FR 4220 aka Skyline Road. We had braved this road once before on a hike to Jefferson Park Ridge (post). That had been a much longer drive on this road than the 3.5 miles we had to endure to reach the pullout on the right shortly before the the road crossed North Fork Breitenbush River. A very small temporary Forest Service sign was all that marked the trailhead where a pair of paths led into the forest. In hindsight we should have taken the path leaving to the left of the parking area, but instead we took the path straight ahead.
IMG_3260

As we would discover in a few minutes the trail to the left went straight to the river then turned right along the water to meet up with the path we’d taken. The path we took descended a bit and also brought us to the river near a small cascade.
IMG_3261

IMG_3263

There was also a view here to Bear Point across the valley, a hike that we are hoping to do later this month.
IMG_3269

The trail switchbacked down to what Reeder describes as the top tier of the Breitenbush Cascades.
IMG_3272

IMG_3282

The river almost immediately spills over the lip of another cascade.
IMG_3286

This second tier is reachable via another switchback although the trail down is steeper and there is a bit of an awkward drop down some exposed rock.
IMG_3289

20190713_063926

Slick rocks and moss make caution here important as the river plunges downhill yet again beyond the second tier.
IMG_3294The river below the second tier.

The river actually loses over 1200′ from this second tier as it cascades down to join the South Fork North Fork Breitenbush River. By all accounts this is likely the tallest waterfall in Oregon if the cascades are considered a single feature, but the steepness of the terrain make this second tier the final tier that is safely reachable, at least without special equipment.

We headed back uphill to the small cascade above the first tier where we stayed right along the water. This led us back to the parking area via that left hand trail and past another nice little cascade on the river.
IMG_3298

IMG_3302

We drove back down FR 4220 and wound up passing what appeared to be a brand new Mercedes SUV (complete with dealer plates) coming up the rocky, rutted road. I guess that’s one way to break a new car in.

Once we’d finished with the 3.5 miles of FR 4220 we turned left on paved FR 46 and drove 5.6 miles to FR 50 (11 miles from Highway 22 at Detroit). After .2 miles of potholes on this gravel road we parked at a pullout on the left at the remains of a guard station that burned in 2000.
IMG_3307

From the pullout we walked down the road to a gate for the Breitenbush Hot Springs Resort and turned left onto the signed Gorge Trail.
IMG_3308

IMG_3309

We had been on this trail before in 2013 (post). This time we planned on the more strenuous hike to Devil’s Peak.

Even thought we’d been on this first section of trail there had been some changes. Namely the footbridges that lead across the North Fork Breitenbush River which need to be repaired or replaced routinely.
IMG_3315

IMG_3316

IMG_3317

IMG_3323

After crossing the river the trail climbed gradually through the forest where we spotted our first blooming Washington lily and prince’s pine of the year.
IMG_3328

IMG_3326

IMG_3329

Just over a mile from the parking area we passed a spur trail on the left joining from South Breitenbush Gorge Trailhead.
IMG_3334

At the 1.5 mile mark we arrived at the signed junction with the Emerald Forest Trail.
IMG_3335

IMG_3337

While the South Breitenbush Gorge Trail is maintained by the Forest Service a network of trails including the Emerald Forest and Devil’s Ridge Trails are maintained by the Breitenbush Hot Springs Retreat and Conference Center.

We turned onto the Emerald Forest Trail which descended for 100 yards to a footbridge over the South Fork Breitenbush River. A previous version of the bridge could be seen to the left.
IMG_3339

IMG_3342

Beyond the river the trail steadily climbed for nearly a mile to a junction with the Spotted Owl Trail. Here we turned left following pointers for the Cliff Trail and Devil’s Lookout.
IMG_3348

IMG_3350

IMG_3354

IMG_3359

IMG_3364

This trail also climbed as it transitioned from unburned forest to the fire scar of the 2017 Little Devil Fire.
IMG_3366

IMG_3367

Just over a quarter mile from the trail junction we arrived at a second junction along a ridge where the Devil’s Ridge Trail continued climbing to the left while the Cliff Trail dropped to the right.
IMG_3369

IMG_3560

We turned left and as we started what would be a fairly intense climb a woodpecker tapped away at the trees.
IMG_3382

IMG_3374

A little less than a quarter mile from the junction we came to a somewhat ominous sign.
20190713_112834

While “at your own risk” gave us something to think about at least the trail wasn’t closed so we ducked under the sign and continued. We were ready to turn back if either of us felt uncomfortable but in the meantime we continued to climb.

Because the trail follows the spine of a ridge there isn’t a lot of room for it to zigzag up so at times it was brutally steep. We tried to entertain ourselves with the remaining flowers which included our first fireweed, diamond clarkia, scouler’s bluebells (lots), and pearly everlasting of the year.
IMG_3396

IMG_3399A clump of fireweed.

IMG_3400

IMG_3408Scouler’s bluebells

IMG_3411Diamond clarkia

IMG_3416Cat’s ear lily

IMG_3419yarrow

IMG_3429Pearly everlasting

A little over a half mile from the junction we arrived at the Devil’s Lookout, a rocky viewpoint. Although we had some blue sky overhead clouds seemed to be encircling us.
IMG_3426

IMG_3424

IMG_3423

The trail then dropped a bit as it crossed a somewhat level saddle before launching itself uphill again.
IMG_3433

IMG_3438

IMG_3442Another Washington lily

IMG_3444

After gaining 200′ in a tenth of a mile the trail became more reasonable as it climbed along a much gentler slope. There were some interesting rock formations along this section.
IMG_3454

IMG_3450

IMG_3455Devil’s Peak ahead

In addition to the rocks we spotted a spectacular Washington Lily with various stages of blooms. It smelled just as good as it looked too.
IMG_3458

IMG_3459

IMG_3467

As the trail neared Devil’s Peak it took a different approach than launching straight uphill and wound around to the left. The tread along the hillside had been damaged by the fire and required a little caution.
IMG_3478

IMG_3495

The trail wrapped around to the opposite side of Devil’s Peak where there were a few reaming wildflowers from what looked like it had been a decent display.
IMG_3498

A trail used to continue along the ridge all the way to Triangulation Peak (post) but that trail had long been abandoned before the fire.
IMG_3499

The trail now got back to business and did indeed head basically straight up to the top of Devil’s Peak.
IMG_3501

The view had reportedly been great of Mt. Jefferson before the fire and with many trees now burned the view was even more open, but those pesky clouds just weren’t cooperating.
IMG_3505
Ironically we had been able to see Mt. Jefferson clear as a bell during our drive to Detroit but the best we could get now that we were closer was a glimpse of the snowy lower flank.
IMG_3526

IMG_3527

Triangulation Peak was below the clouds though.
IMG_3506

IMG_3508

We spent some time resting and exploring the summit which had some excellent rocks to sit on.
IMG_3509

IMG_3514

After a nice break we stared down. The steepness of the descent made it necessary to keep our speed under control and it was tough on the knees.
IMG_3553A typical steep section.

We stopped when we could, breaking for insects and ripe strawberries.
IMG_3537

IMG_3539

IMG_3547

IMG_3533

When we arrived back at the trail junction we stayed straight on the Cliff Trail which continued the theme of steep descents. After just 200 feet we veered left at a “Cliffs” pointer.
IMG_3561

IMG_3562

Short spur trails led out to a couple of cliff top viewpoints which overlooked the forest.
IMG_3565

IMG_3566

IMG_3568

IMG_3569

IMG_3571

IMG_3570

Beyond the cliffs the trail really dropped as it descended into a narrow valley.
IMG_3572Looking back up from the bottom.

IMG_3575Still dropping but much more gradually.

Approximately a half mile from the cliffs the trail ended at the Spotted Owl Trail. Here a right turn takes you back to the Emerald Forest Trail in half a mile where you can then return to the trailhead via the earlier route.
IMG_3577

IMG_3578

If you have a shuttle car that you left at the Spotted Owl Trailhead or if you are a guest at the resort you can turn left here and follow the Spotted Owl Trail a little over a mile to the visitor parking area at Breitenbush Hot Springs. The description in Reeder’s book has you loop through the resort but the resort has apparently hardened their stance on allowing hikers to pass through the resort itself.

This wasn’t a particularly long hike (9-10 miles) and the roughly 2400′ of elevation gain isn’t all that high a number but the steepness of those gains made this a surprisingly tough hike. It would have been nice to have had a view of Mt. Jefferson but this year seems to be the year of partly cloudy skies so all we can do is keep trying. In any event it was a nice hike and gave us a good excuse to check out the Breitenbush Cascades. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Breitenbush Cascades and Devil’s Ridge Trail

Categories
Hiking Mt. Hood Area Oregon Trip report

Devil’s Peak

The end of September/beginning of October brings us a pair of birthday celebrations, my Grandma on 9/30 and our Son on 10/1. We planned a joint celebration dinner in Portland but before the festivities we headed out on a hike to work up an appetite.

Due to the plans we needed a hike near Portland in the 8 to 10 mile range and hiking up the Cool Creek Trail to the Devil’s Peak Lookout fit the bill perfectly. We headed out early to the Cool Creek Trailhead. Oddly our guidebook had us turn on Road 20 at the east end of Rhododendron, OR instead of west of Rohododendron on Still Creek Road which is how the Forest Service directions have you go. We followed the guidebook directions only to be turned back by a closed bridge and had to go back to Still Creek Road. After finding the open route to the trailhead we parked along the shoulder of the road and set off on the Cool Creek Trail.
IMG_3124

The trail started with a steep incline, a reminder that it needed to gain over 3000′ over the next 4 miles. Not far from the trailhead we entered the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness.
IMG_3133

The trail is mostly forested with a few glimpses of Mt. Hood through the trees.
IMG_3144

IMG_3145

IMG_3148

IMG_3157

The best early view came just over a mile along the trail. For about two tenths of a mile the trail passed along an open hillside with a view across the valley to Mt. Hood.
IMG_3165

IMG_3166

The trail then passed around to the other side of a ridge where it pretty much remained for the next two miles. The forest here still housed a good number of red and blue huckleberries.
IMG_3176<

IMG_3177

IMG_3184

IMG_3187

IMG_3183

There were sections of more level trail in the forest which gave a nice break from the climbing, but also meant that the elevation would need to be made up on the sections of uphill.
IMG_3197

IMG_3198

Approximately 3.25 miles from the trailhead a spur to the left led to a rocky ridge top which provided what turned out to be the best viewpoint of the day.
IMG_3201

IMG_3232The rocky ridge

IMG_3203

From this point four Cascades were visible, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood.
IMG_3213_stitch

IMG_3207Mt. St. Helens

IMG_3209Mt. Rainier

IMG_3210Mt. Adams

Tom Dick and Harry Mountain (post) was also clearly visible to the NE.
IMG_3229

Beyond the ridge viewpoint the trail traversed the hillside on the west side of the ridge climbing for another quarter mile past one more viewpoint of Mt. Hood to its end at the Hunchback Trail.
IMG_3235

IMG_3238

IMG_3240

IMG_3244

A spur trail to the Devil’s Peak Lookout is just 500 feet after turning right onto the Hunchback Trail.
IMG_3247

IMG_3248

The lookout is a little over 200 feet up this spur.
IMG_3249

IMG_3250

The tower is available for use on a first come, first serve basis so there was a possibility that it was occupied but it turned out to be empty.
IMG_3257

IMG_3285

IMG_3288

IMG_3289

IMG_3290

Mt. Hood was visible from the lookout.
IMG_3286

I had gone ahead of Heather and Dominique who had joined us for the hike so I explored Devil’s Peak while I waited for them to arrive.
IMG_3259

IMG_3263Mt. Jefferson in some haze to the south.

IMG_3268Mt. Hood

IMG_3272Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness

IMG_3283

IMG_3300Clouds coming up the Salmon River Valley

IMG_3339Butterflies on the lookout.

IMG_3346One of several birds foraging in the bushes near the lookout.

It turned out that I had gotten quite a bit ahead and wound up spending about an hour and a half at the tower watching the clouds break up above while they also moved in below.
IMG_3306

IMG_3332

IMG_3350

After they joined me at the lookout they took a break as well then we headed back down. At the ridge viewpoint the view of Mt. Hood was better than it had been earlier, but not for the other Cascades.
IMG_3355_stitch

We continued back down stopping to gather some huckleberries to take to my Grandmas house. We wound up passing beneath the clouds losing Mt. Hood for the last mile and a half.
IMG_3363

IMG_3366

IMG_3370

IMG_3369

It was a tough 8 mile hike given the elevation gain but the views were well worth the effort. That effort was also rewarded with a nice birthday dinner and a tasty piece of cake. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Devil’s Peak