When we decided to try and hike all 100 featured hikes in a single edition of each of the five areas covered in William L. Sullivan’s 100 Hikes books (post) we decided that the criteria for being able to check off a hike was doing (or attempting to do) at least a portion of the hike. Sullivan often provides multiple options for each featured hike with some options being 20+ mile one-way trips or nearly 30-mile loops. Doing every option in their entirety just wasn’t feasible when you also factor in having to deal with trail closures due to fires, damage, or restricted access.
In 2023 we completed the southern Oregon & northern California area (post), but missed out on a portion of three hikes in Crater Lake National Park. On Saturday we’d finished up two of the hikes, The Pinnacles and Lady of the Woods (post). The third hike that we’d been unable to do in its entirety was on Wizard Island which requires taking a boat from Cleetwood Cove (post). The boats did not operate in 2023, an issue caused by the previous contracted concessionaire, so we were only able to hike down to the docks at the cove on that trip.
We reserved tickets ahead of time for the Wizard Island shuttle which is a 15-minute boat ride from Cleetwood Cove to Wizard Island. There were two other tours available, one a trip around the lake, and the other stops at Wizard Island on its way around the lake. Had we not needed to get home the same day we would have opted for the latter, but a tour around the lake would need to wait for another time. We nearly blew the whole thing though.
Somehow we got it into our heads that our shuttle left Cleetwood Cove at 12:30pm. We slept in and left our room so that we’d arrive at Beckie’s Cafe in Union Creek when it opened at 8am. After eating, and buying a whole blackberry pie to share with my parents, we made our way to the park and stopped at several viewpoints along the rim to admire the views. The overcast and smokey skies from the day before had given way to big fluffy white clouds and relatively blue sky.
Llao Rock and Wizard Island
The docks on Wizard Island.
The views were so good even the golden-mantled ground squirrels were taking them in.
Mt. McLoughlin (post) and Union Peak (post).
Cassin’s finches
Mount Scott (post) across the lake.
Wizard Island’s Fumarole Bay
The Watchman (post)
Mt. Bailey on the left and Mt. Thielsen (post) on the right. You can’t really make it out in the photo but with the naked eye we could see Diamond Peak (post) in between the two in the distance.
Smoke from the Middle Fork Fire burning inside the park boundary.

Fire information at one of the viewpoints.
At this pull out we got out and hiked a little of the Rim Trail. I decided to just continue on to Merriam Point while Heather was nice enough to drive the car down and meet me.
Western pasqueflower seed heads.
Silvery raillardella
Hillman Peak (post)
The Watchman and Hillman Peak
Dwarf lupine

We were intentionally taking our time so we wouldn’t arrive way too early for our boat tour. We had been targeting 11am to give us an hour and a half but wound up arriving a little before 10:30. That wound up being a good thing because when we went to check in we noticed that there were two shuttle times listed, 9am and 11:30. After some confusion with our tickets, Heather inadvertently pulled up our Wallow Lake Tram (post) tickets from 7/26 (issued by the same online company Fareharbor), the attendant was able to find our reservation. It had been for the 9am shuttle and there was never a 12:30 shuttle. We’d messed up pretty good. The young man was very understanding and let us know that they still had three openings on the 11:30 shuttle and that he could move us to two of those spots. We were very thankful and quickly headed down the 1.1-mile Cleetwood Cove Trail to the check in at the dock there.

From left to right: Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak (post).
Our shuttle arriving at the docks below.
We checked in and got our boarding instruction then spent some time watching people jump into the lake from the rocks.


When it was time we boarded the boat which zipped us over to the island.

The boat traveled at about 35mph so I didn’t have too many chances to take photos. The exception was when we had to briefly circle back to retrieve someone’s hat that had flown off into the lake.
Nearing the island.
There are two short trails on the island, one leads to Fumarole Bay and the other to the top of Wizard Island’s cone. Most of the people in our group headed for the cone with a few heading to the bay to either fish or swim. We were also going to head up the cone first and had decided to split up and do our own thing then meet back up at the docks later.
The trails shared tread for the first tenth of a mile. (Toilets were to the right.)


In the line heading up to the cone.
Part of the reason we’d decided to hike our own hikes is because I have a slight competitive streak and tend to speed up when there are people ahead of us. It wasn’t long before I’d passed most of the other hikers and was just following a pair of younger guys from San Diego.

Looking up the cone.
The Watchman and Hillman Peak from the trail.
These two were setting a crisp pace and the only reason I was able to keep up was because they would occasionally stop for pictures and to admire the views.

Mount Scott
The trail was well graded keeping the 750′ climb from ever feeling too steep.

Prince’s pine
Buckwheat
Paintbrush

I managed to pass the Sandiegans shortly below the summit while they were taking a few more photos. Just before the summit a hiker from a different tour passed me as she was descending and mentioned that there wasn’t anyone left at the summit.
The summit crater also known as the Witches Cauldron.
A 0.3-mile loop circles the crater so I headed clockwise around the loop. The pair from San Diego caught up while I was taking photos and asked if I could take one of them before continuing on.
Mt. Scott from the loop.
Llao Rock
Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak

Crater Lake lodge on the rim to the right of Garfield Peak.
Crater Lake lodge.
Hikers across the crater starting the loop.

Looking down toward the dock area.
The Watchman and Hillman Peak.
Looking toward Cleetwood Cove.

Fumarole Bay is to the left of lava flow.
Pool in the lava flow.
After completing the loop I headed down for the Fumarole Bay Trail.

Dwarf alpinegold
Another boat tour heading around the island.


I had passed Heather on her way up and we spoke for a moment before going our separate ways.


Heading toward Fumarole Bay.
It’s approximately a half mile to Fumarole Bay on a very rocky trail due to it being in a lava flow.




The Watchman from the trail.
Fumarole Bay. Note the person fishing on the rocks to the right.
Fumarole Bay
Stream flowing into Crater Lake.
Hillman Peak
The trail continued around the bay for almost another half mile.


Bleeding heart

The Watchman

I believe this may be Felt-leaf everlasting.

An even fainter, rockier, trail continued beyond the sign marking the end of the maintained trail. I followed it for just a bit before losing it in the lava where I decided to turn around.

I made my way back around the bay and returned to the dock where I found Heather soaking her feet in the water.








Heather below at the edge of the lake. She had opted not to visit the bay.
I joined Heather as we waited for our return shuttle. In the meantime she took a quick dip in the lake to cool off.

Here comes our ride.
Once they herded everyone back to the dock we boarded the boat and rode back to Cleetwood Cove.
Arriving back at the cove.
We split up again on our way up the busy Cleetwood Cove Trail.


It got a little hazier as the day went on.
I was glad to make it back to the parking area where I changed into cooler clothes before using the restroom.

I ran into Heather as I came out of the restrooms so we walked back to the car together and prepared for our drive home. My Wizard Island hike came to 6.6 miles including 2.2 miles to and from Cleetwood Cove. Total elevation gain was a little over 1450′. Seven hundred of that was up from Cleetwood Cove which was steeper in sections than anything on Wizard Island had been.
Track including the boat rides.
My Wizard Island track.
It had been a beautiful day and a lot of fun to see the lake and surrounding peaks from the island. The smoke had somehow stayed away and so had the thunderstorms. Unfortunately storms did hit other parts of the Cascades along with central and eastern Oregon igniting more wildfires. We hit heavy smoke on our drive home between Odell Lake and Oakridge reminding us of just how bad this fire season has been. A big thank you to all the firefighters working hard to try and minimize the damage. Hopefully conditions will improve sooner rather than later. Happy Trails!
Flickr: Merriam Point and Wizard Island







































































View after coming back down.

The tramway from the top.
Pointer for the Royal Purple Overlook (right) and Summit Overlook (left).
Penstemon
Heading out to the Royal Purple Overlook.
They do hold weddings up on the mountain.
Lewis flax
Mountain coyote mint
The Hurwal Divide, Point Joseph and Ruby Peak from left to right.
Pete’s Point, West Aneroid Peak, Eagle Cap the furthest away (
Closer look at Eagle Cap.
Craig Mountain and the Matterhorn (
East Peak
Pano that Heather took with her phone.
Buckwheat
Pointer for the Summit Overlook.
View from the Summit Overlook. Heather is standing on the Royal Purple Overlook.
Buek’s groundsel
Point Joseph
East Peak as I neared the Summit Overlook.
The Seven Devils poking up above the smoke from Idaho.
Seven Devils
Mount Melissa to the left and East Peak straight ahead.
The 4-way junction.
East Peak from the 4-way junction.

Mountain bluebird
Climbing to the saddle.
The view from the saddle.
Wood blocking the lower end of the “short-cut”.
Looking back at the Summit Overlook during one of my several breaks during the climb up.
There were a few obstacles to avoid along the climb as well.
The Royal Purple Overlook from the trail.
Up, up I go.
Golden-mantled ground squirrel watching me navigate some blowdown.
The views helped keep my mind off the climbing.
The second saddle in sight.
The angle was enough different from the saddle that I could see a couple of additional peaks.
The Matterhorn on the left and now Sacajawea Peak behind the Hurwal Divide to the Matterhorns right.
The saddle provided a brief level stretch before the trail launched steeply uphill again.

East Peak
Lots of buckwheat along this section.
Buckwheat and lupine above the trail.
The fork. According to Sullivan the righthand fork peters out in about 0.2-miles and then it’s possible to scramble up East Peak in another three quarters of a mile. I went left heading for the spring.
The McCully Creek Trail which we hiked a couple of days earlier (
A phacelia
Lyall’s Goldenweed
Wallflower
Looking back at the trail.
Flowers near the springs.
Shrubby cinquefoil surrounded by bistort and mountain death-camas.
Mountain death-camas and bistort
Looking up at the springs.
Monkeyflower
There were several smaller streams below East Peak.
Aneroid Mountain
Ground squirrel
View from my turn around point.
Looking back at my route to the second saddle.

Dusty maidens near the springs.
Heading down to the saddle.
Cairn at the saddle.
Milbert’s tortoiseshell
Pale agoseris
Climbing back up to the 4-way junction.
Back on the Summit Loop.
Crossing the service road coming up from McCully Creek.
Mountain Heather
Pointer for the Valley Overlook.
Spur trail to the Valley Overlook.
Flag at the Valley Overlook.
Wallowa Lake below the Valley Overlook.
Wallowa Lake
East Peak peaking up over the trees.

Wallowa Paintbrush
The upper terminal.
Apparently Heather was busy making a friend while I was visiting the springs even though she did not feed any animals.
The straight line is the tram ride.

Even at 6am on a Thursday the trailhead parking was nearly full.
This was a neat feature.
We both counted our steps, for me it was 50 and Heather 60.
The Lostine River.
Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness just before the trails split.
Trail sign at the fork.
Bridge over the East Fork Lostine River.
East Fork Lostine River
The storm overnight had provided a little much needed rain.
Huckleberries (I’d already picked the ripe ones.)

Elkhorn Peak
Monkshood

Some of the river channels were very calm and crystal clear.
We passed through a section of bent and snapped trees which were probably a result of an avalanche.

Glacier Mountain
Looking back at the other side of Elkhorn Peak.
Nuttal’s linanthus
Looking back down one of the steeper sections. We passed another couple heading out along this section.
Looking up the Copper Creek drainage. Glacier Mountain on the left and Elkhorn Peak on the right.
Off-trail waterfall. We could hear this from the trail, and it was a fairly easy bushwack to get a good view.
The river crossing.

Yellow columbine
A little hazy looking toward the Sun.

Elephants head
Unnamed creek
An easier crossing of the river here.





First view of Minam Lake.
Minam Lake
Common mergansers
Needle Point is the peak in the distance to the far left.
Shooting stars
We could have stared at the rocks along the ridges for hours.
Heading back.
Violet
Groundsquirrel
Robin
Fritillary
Orange agoseris
The fire was burning up in that basin somewhere.
The talus section in the afternoon.
Spirea

Butterflies and moths were out in force.
Police car moth and another interesting looking pollinator (out of focus).

Prince’s pine
Back at the junction with the East Fork Lostine River Trail.
Left for hikers and right for stock.
We managed to get started about ten minutes before 6am.


Bugbane and paintbrush
A 2022 wildfire burned the first 3-miles of the trail and left the old footbridge damaged. A steep scramble trail led down to it.
Big Sheep Creek

Paintbrush and lupine
Wildfire smoke filling the valley behind us.




Phacelia
Butterfly on buckwheat.
Some of the trees survived the fire.
White mariposa lilies in a meadow along the trail.
Junction with the Wing Ridge Trail.
North Fork Big Sheep Creek
Lewis Monkeyflower along the creek.


Canada milk-vetch
Grass-of-parnassus
Bog orchid
Checker-mallow
Bee heading for some monkshood.
Me in some fireweed.

Getting eyed by a western tanager.


When fires burn too hot they damage the soil which makes it difficult for all plants to obtain the necessary nutrients to grow.
A few plants had been able to take hold.
A healthy patch of paintbrush.
Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek
Monkeyflower
Brook saxifrage
Another severely burned section.
The Bonny Lakes Trail forking to the right off of the Tenderfoot Wagon Road Trail.
Wildflowers along the Bonny Lakes Trail.
The wildflowers were profuse along this stretch of trail.
American sawwort
Police car moths
Larkspur and fleabane
The trail recrossed the Middle Fork Big Sheep Creek.
Orange agoseris


Taper tip onions
White mariposa lilies


False hellebore
Checker-mallow
Penstemon on the outcrop.
Mountain larkspur
Pika!
Gathering plants for the Winter store.


On the steep climb.
Mountain heather
Ground squirrel
The creek was below between the ridges here.

Stonecrop
Swamp onions

Wallowa paintbrush
Aneroid Mountain and Lower Bonny Lake.
Aneroid Mountain to the right and an unnamed peak on the left.


Shrubby cinquefoil
Cutleaf anemone seed heads.
Possibly a sandwort.

Upper Bonny Lake
Lower Bonny Lake
Aneroid Mountain from the knoll.

Spotted sandpiper
Elephants head

White mariposa lily and buckwheat
Jacob’s ladder
Checker-mallow and white mariposa lilies along the trail.
Scouler’s woolly-weed

Gentians

Goldenrod and yarrow
Nuttal’s linanthus


North Fork Big Sheep Creek
The haze from the morning had improved now that the Sun had moved on from the east.
Looking down at the un-damaged bridge over a side stream.
Yellow columbine
Big Sheep Creek.



East Peak
Spreading dogbane
The start of the McCully Creek Trail (to the left).






Paintbrush and pussytoes along with the lupine.
Pink pyrola
Monkshood
Tall bulebells
Penstemon
Entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
Yellow columbine
Arnica and fleabane
Coiled lousewort
The McCully Creek crossing.
Elephants head at the crossing.
Paintbrush in the meadow.
Fleabane (or aster) in the meadow.
Wallowa paintbrush
Cusick’s speedwell

The first blowdown we encountered. 

Heading cross-country to McCully Creek.
Where I recrossed the creek.
Heading down to a flat opening which could serve as a campsite.
Arriving at the first meadow.
Aneroid Mountain

A few flowers in the meadow.
Bistort
Shooting stars

Looking down toward where I left the trail to bushwack to the meadow.
Jacob’s ladder
Orange agoseris
Fritillary
Crescent
Bog orchid
Tortoiseshell
Red-breasted nuthatch




The gate on the service road had been opened at some point.
Swallowtail


Canadian milk-vetch
The Falls Creek Trail on the right. 


Mock orange
The Falls Creek crossing.
Twin Peaks from Falls Creek.
Geranium
Paintbrush

A paintbrush hiding in fleabane.
Robin
The trail crossed a rocky area caused by an avalanche.
Doe with one of her two fawns that were down at the creek at the avalanche area. 
Mountain death-camas
The Hurwal Divide to the left of Sacajawea Peak.
Rosy pussytoes
Hurricane Divide (south)

Deadman Creek
Western tanager
Hurricane Creek



Slick Rock Creek flowing down from the right in the distance. 


The creek crossing.
Harebells and stonecrop
Paintbrush below the falls.
Arnica
Wallowa paintbrush, yellow columbine, milk-vetch, and northern sweetvetch.
Faint rainbow in the falls.
Butterfly on Rocky Mountain goldenrod.
Yellow fleabane
This may be common butterwort, but I’m not positive.
Yellow columbine
Spider hunting a moth. There was a brief scuffle, but the moth escaped unharmed. 
Penstemon

Sagebrush mariposa lily

Despite all the wildfires the views were pretty good as long as the Sun was at our backs.


Nuttal’s linathus
Wood nymph
There was haze to our backs though.
Rose along the trail.
A Sulphur butterfly.
A pale crescent on fleabane.
It was warm and smokey at the viewpoint.

Yarrow
White mariposa lily
Aster
Sulphur buckwheat
Scarlet gilia
Bee visiting some penstemon
Imnaha River canyon
A small section of the loop was lost in a 2022 wildfire.
The other end of the missing trail.
One of several interpretive signs along the loop.
Nettle-leaf giant hyssop
This appeared to be the last of the elkhorn clarkia in bloom.
Looking down wasn’t bad, but we couldn’t really make out any of the mountain peaks in the distance.
Taper-tip onions
A smokey Sun was heating things up fast.
Grouse
One of a pair of hawks.
The Hat Point Lookout from the parking area.
Paintbrush
The start of the loop.
Fireweed
The lookout staffer?
Sunlight reflecting off of the Snake River in Hells Canyon.
Hidden in the haze are the Seven Devils mountains in Idaho.
Penstemon
The tower was closed to the public due to safety concerns.

Hells Canyon is deeper than the Grand Canyon from its highest point, 9,393′ He Devil in Idaho at 8,043′ from the river. The depth from Hat Point to the river is 5,632′.
Mountain coyote mint
Lewis flax




The tread was faint in spots amid the patches of wildflowers.
There was a small rock outcrop at the ridge end.
This is where we turned around not wanting to lose anymore elevation and have to climb back up on what was already an uncomfortably warm day. As it turns out we were just about at the boundary of the
The lookout from our turn around point.


Hat Point Trail sign near the quarters.
This trailhead sign was in a large parking area near the quarters, but there were “No Parking” signs along the road here.
Lupine

Imnaha River canyon
Imnaha from the Five Mile Overlook.
The unsigned trail enters the forest across from a small pullout.
Bunchberry




Fish
Rough skinned newt


Flagging and some old trail maintenance along the Baty Butte Trail.
We could see the tread continuing on the other side of the thicket.
Vegetation covering the trail.
The trailhead is located at a turnaround at the end of BLM road 7-4E-11.1.
Oregon sunshine, lupine and paintbrush.
Larkspur, paintbrush, and Oregon sunshine.
Penstemon, paintbrush, and valerian.

Westen featherbells
Bistort
Arnica

Bear sign on the trail.
Paintbrush and lousewort
Nasty Rock from the trail.
Entering the fire scar.
The trail was especially overgrown in the fire scar.
Penstemon
Columbine along the trail.
Valerian
Exiting the fire scar after less than 100 yards.
While none of the several downed trees posed much of an issue the condition of the trail made for slow going.

Nasty Rock sticking up ahead.
Not Nasty Rock further along the ridge and in the Beachie Creek fire scar.
Wildflowers were blooming in the openings along the ridge.
Arrowleaf buckwheat
Checkerspot on Oregon sunshine
Oregon sunshine
Table Rock (
Mt. Hood peecking up from behind a ridge.
Scarlet gilia
Nasty Rock from the trail.
Flowers below the trail.
Flowers above the trail.
Buckwheat



There were a lot of nice Washington lilies below Nasty Rock with more to come over the next week or two.
Wintergreen
Nasty Rock from the trail.
The trail below Nasty Rock.
Nasty Rock from the end of the “trail”. Prior to the 2020 fire a rougher use trail continued on to Not Nasty Rock, but we didn’t see any obvious tread. (We weren’t really looking though either.) We made the fairly easy scramble to the top of Nasty Rock and took a short break.
Mt. Jefferson from Nasty Rock.
Mt. Jefferson with the flat-topped Battle Ax (
Mt. Hood in the distance.

Looking out across the Molalla River drainage to the Table Rock Wilderness.
Rooster Rock is the rock outcrop to the left with Table Rock the tall feature to the right. Pechuck Lookout can be seen on the lower hilltop in the center foreground.
Not Nasty Rock from Nasty Rock. The highest peak diagonally left of Not Nasty Rock is Rocky Top (
We were joined at the summit by a swarm of flying ants obsessed with this fir tree.
Checkerspot on Oregon sunshine
Swallowtail resting on serviceberry.
Blue bells of Scotland
Fritillaries on mountain coyote mint
Clodius parnassian on mountain coyote mint.
Fleabane
Buckwheats, paintbrush, Oregon sunshine and at least one butterfly.
Scarlet gilia
Larkspur
Washington lily
Inside-out flower
Fritillary
Beardtongue
Pink pyrola
Bead lily a.k.a. Queen’s cup
Bunchberry
Cat’s ear mariposa lily
Approaching the road.
Larkspur and yarrow
Checkerspots on Oregon sunshine




Ash Creek


In addition to the single doe we spotted a variety of birds along our route.
Passing the dog park.
Sign at the start of the sports park.
Bird in a nest.
Interpretive sign along the trail.

Stellar’s jay
Flowers along the path.
Eventually the field on the left will be developed into sports fields.
Vetch
Morning sunlight showing why it’s a robin “red breast”.
Sparrow
Going around the open field brought is into the sunlight, but it still hadn’t warmed up too much.
Swallows
Spotted towhee with breakfast.
Amphitheater at Riverview Park.
Willamette River
Killdeer


Pointers on South Main Street.