Knowing that trails would be busy over the holiday weekend we looked for an option that might provide some solitude and turned to another Matt Reeder hike at BLM managed Criterion Tract (BLM map). Reeder features this hike in his “PDX Hiking 365” guidebook and lists April as the best time to visit. His reasoning is that April to early May is the usually the peak wildflower blooms. With this years blooms running a couple of weeks late we hoped that Memorial Day weekend wouldn’t be too late. I couldn’t find any information other than the map linked above on the BLM website but in addition to Reeder’s entry there is a route featured in the Oregonhikers.org field guide and Sullivan features a route starting along the Deschutes River in his 2022 “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” guidebook (not the edition we are using for our quest of his featured hikes).
While there are several possible access points we started at the Criterion North Trailhead.

Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams from the trailhead which is the high point of the hike.
Mt. Hood
The “trails” here consist of old jeep tracks that are closed to motorized use (other than BLM administrators) and not maintained so some have become faint. We passed through a green gate and onto what the Oregonhikers.org map shows as Criterion Crest Road.
Cattle sometimes graze in the area and the combination of their hooves with the unmaintained roads makes for some pretty rough surfaces.
Reeder has you follow this road for nearly four miles before turning downhill through a gate at a faint 4-way junction. He doesn’t mention any other markers along the way but the road passes under a set of power lines, followed by another gate, then the power lines again, a third gate, and passes an abandoned trailer before reaching the 4-way junction. Mountain views stretched from Mt. Bachelor to the South to Mt. Adams in Washington to the North. We saw plenty of wildflowers and a lot of birds as well as deer and elk sign, but we didn’t see any hooved mammals (including cows thankfully).
Rough-eyelashweed. There was a lot of this blooming along the road.
A couple of lomatiums.
Howell’s milkvetch
Idaho milkvetch
Western meadowlark
A buckwheat
Carey’s balsamroot
Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top and the Three Sisters
Lupine
Bumble bee on Howell’s milkvetch
Lark sparrow
We spent a lot of time heading toward Mt. Hood.
Sparrow?
Mt. Adams
Mt. Hood
We were a little too late for the large-head clover.
Western meadowlark giving a performance.
The third gate with Mt. Hood in the distance.
Yarrow
Phlox
The Deschutes River winding through the valley below.
Rough eyelashweed and lupine with Mt. Hood behind.
Caterpillar
Lupine with Mt. Jefferson in the background.
Horned lark
Mt. Jefferson behind the abandoned trailer.
Mt. Jefferson was hidden at times but this gap in the hills provided a nice view.
Oregon sunshine
Skipper
Mt. Jefferson and Olallie Butte (post) behind the lupine.
A small watering hole.
Leaning toward an Acmon blue but not sure.
Another in the Lycaenidae family.
Large marble on a fiddleneck.
The fourth gate at the 4-way junction.
Mourning dove
We took a short break by the gate before passing through. As we descended on the jeep track we came to a split where the clearer track curved to the left while a faint track headed straight downhill through a field of balsamroot. Reeder’s map showed his route was along the fainter track so we stayed straight.
The more “obvious” jeep track curving left.
The fainter track angling slightly right.
We were a couple of weeks late for the peak balsamroot bloom, but there were enough remaining blooms/petals to color the hillside yellow.

Ochre ringlet on rougheyelashweed.

We soon rejoined the other jeep track where we turned right.

The terrain had leveled out and we continued on the track watching for Stag Point, a knoll with a post on top, which was Reeder’s turn around point.
Zerene fritillary
Zerene fritillary on salsify
We thought we spied the post and used the camera to zoom in and confirm.
This was the only knoll with a juniper as well as the post.
Largeflower hawksbeard
Paintbrush
To reach Stag Point we had to go cross country, so we looked for the most gradual looking climb.

Mt. Hood from Stag Point.
The Deschutes River from Stag Point.
The view was good from Stag Point, but we were hoping to see more of the river and decided to do a little more cross country exploring by heading SE along the rim from Stag Point to a promising looking rock outcrop.
Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams from Stag Point.
Looking back over the route we’d come down.
Ladybug and an Oregon swallowtail.
Desert yellow fleabane
Heading out to the rock outcrop.
Mt. Hood and Stag Point from the outcrop.
A better view of the Deschutes.
Mt. Hood beyond the cliffs.
A buckwheat
Satisfied now with the view we took a short break on the outcrop before heading back. We made our way back to the jeep track by angling back toward the rim where we’d descended. Once we’d reached the track we simply followed it back uphill to the gate at the 4-way junction.
Stink bug
Silverleaf phacelia
Back on the jeep track.
Lupine and balsamroot
The cows had really chewed this section of the jeep track up.
The gate ahead.
Horned lark guarding the gate.
After passing through the gate we retraced our route back to the trailhead. Butterflies were now out in force and we spotted a couple of lizards.
Mt. Jefferson and Olallie Butte
Grand collomia
Time for some sun.
A butterfly and fly.
Three butterflies and a fly.
Busy bee
This swallowtail was a little rough around the edges.
Another horned lark on lookout.
Nothing brings fritillary butterflies together like a good pile of scat.
We had been trying to figure out where the Oregonhikers loop had veered off Criterion Road and as we were discussing it on the way back it donned on us that it must follow the powerlines for a short distance. Neither of us had noticed another jeep track leading off around the powerlines but it made sense because there is almost always an access road below lines. Sure enough when we arrived at the power lines there was a jeep track clear as day.
Another option for another time. We were just happy to have solved that mystery.
The Radio Towers on the hill were right next to the trailhead.
The Three Sisters (from this angle it looks like two)
Three butterflies and a beetle on buckwheat.
Another mystery was where did the trail from the South Trailhead (just on the other side of the radio towers) connect. We’d missed the track on the right on our first pass, another question answered.
Lizard with half a tail at the trailhead.
This mountain bluebird was acting odd when we arrived at the gate. It was flying back and forth with something in its mouth. (Mt. Adams is in the background.)
It turned out to be a grasshopper that it was waiting to feed its young who were apparently in a nest in some nearby rocks.

After we passed by we heard the chicks calling and watched it fly into the rocks with their meal.
This turned out to be an excellent choice for the holiday weekend. We only encountered one other person, a trail runner we passed on our way back to the 4-way junction from Stag Point. The late wildflower season played to our advantage and the weather was good. It can get really hot and/or really windy there but on this day a reasonable breeze kept the temperature down without blowing us around. The rough tread was really the only downside to the hike, but that wasn’t too bad overall.
Our hike came in at 10.6 miles with roughly 700′ of elevation gain.

We definitely plan on returning to try Sullivan’s route from below someday and possibly trying to follow the Oregonhikers loop sometime as well. Happy Trails!
Flickr: Criterion Tract
Mt. Hood from the trailhead.


Death camas
Western stoneseed
Fiddleneck
Large-flower tritelia
Mt. Hood beyond Horsethief Lake
Standing at the fence looking east.
Wren
Horsethief Butte
Lupine





Horsethief Butte and Mt. Hood from the viewpoint.

Purple cushion fleabane
Balsamroot



Western bluebird
Ground squirrel


Lupine, balsamroot and parsley
The Crawford Ranch Complex ahead to the left.
Phlox







Approaching the fence line.
Yellow-rumped warbler
Back of a scrub jay




Mt. Hood
Mt. Jefferson




Yakima milk-vetch


The Columbia River, Horsethief Butte, and Mt. Hood
Death camas
Large head clover
Approaching the junction.
Hawk watching all the hikers.
A different hawk? watching the goings on.
Western fence lizard watching everything.
Poppy, manroot, and red-stemmed storksbill
The crowded trailhead

While both were part of the Crawford Ranch, Stacker Butte is not part of the Columbia Hills State Park but is part of the Columbia Hills Natural Area Preserve.
Yakima milk-vetch
Paintbrush amid the balsamroot.
Phlox
Big-seed biscuitroot
Sicklepod rockcress
Sagebrush false dandelions
Daggerpod
Daggerpod
Slender toothwort?
Shooting stars in front of a little blue-eyed Mary
Large head clover
Popcorn flower
Larkspur
Woodland stars
Mt. Adams
Mt. Rainier
Goat Rocks
Swallowtail
Western fence lizards
White crowned sparrow
Another sparrow
Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood as we neared the trailhead.



Bench at a switchback.

Reroute below Mitchell Point
Mushrooms’ and some sedums.


Houndstongue
Grass Widows
Woodland stars
Yellow bell lily
Desert parsley and woodland stars
A saxifrage
Gold stars and woodland stars
Looking west
North across the Columbia River into Washington
East
Looks like moss for a nest maybe?
Turkeys on the Wygant Trail

Red leaves of poison oak behind a death camas
More poison oak behind a waterleaf
Poison oak around some balsamroot



Fiddleneck
Desert parsley
Manroot
Lots of death camas blooming on the plateau.
Looking up at the cliffs above.
Balsamroot blooming below the rim.

Balsamroot
Woodland stars with some lupine leaves
Columbia desert parsley
A biscuitroot
Balsamroot
Balsamroot
View west (With a snow capped Mt. Defiance (
Larkspur
Buttercups
Glacier lilies
Yellow bell lily, woodland stars, grass widows and shooting stars.
Yellow bell lilies
Toothwort
Sagebrush false dandelions
Tortoiseshell butterfly



Tom McCall Point and the Rowena Plateau with Mt. Defiance in the distance.
Hikers on the trailhead and below.
Just my third photo of an orange-tip.

Mt. Hood and Columbia desert parsley from the first knoll we tried.
Top of knoll #1.
A lone balsamroot blossom.

The path leading past the spring to the oaks.
The spring
Back on the right side
Balsamroot surrounded by some little white flowers.
Lupine thinking about blooming.
Larkspur
Yellow bell lilies
We didn’t notice any poison oak here.
A grass widow at the viewpoint.
Mt. Adams
Mt. Hood over the oak stand.



The Dalles beyond the fence line.
Heading down the fence line.
Large head clover

A lupine with blossoms.
Hillside covered in Columbia desert parsley
Our car had been joined by one other. (middle left of photo)
Gooseberry Creek


Arnica
Fairy slippers






Paintbrush
Desert parsley
Larkspur
Vetch
Lupine
Broomrape
Shooting star
Manroot






Prairie star
Balsamroot





































Vanilla Leaf
Valerian
Ballhead waterleaf
Trillium

Dog Mountain














































































































































































































































































































































































