Tag: hiking

MacDuff Mountain – 06/15/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date June 17, 2024
2 Comments on MacDuff Mountain – 06/15/2024

Seemingly all of the upcoming hikes I have slated for June (this year and in the future) involve viewpoints, but after a week of mostly blue skies and warm weather rain showers arrived just in time for our day off. Our original plan had been a two-stop day near McKeznie Bridge, first to revisit Castle Rock where we’d missed the view in 2017 (post) due to clouds, then hike to MacDuff Mountain for the first time. When I checked Friday morning the forecast for this area called for a 60% chance of showers mainly before 11am, less than a tenth of an inch of precipitation, and partly sunny skies. I checked some other areas and unless we were willing to drive to Central Oregon none looked better than this.

We decided to save Castle Rock for another (sunnier) day and drove straight to the O’Leary/Castle Rock Trailhead.

The hike to MacDuff Mountain was brought to our attention by Hike Oregon who is a great resource for hiking and backpacking information and tips. The O’Leary Mountain Trail passes just below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain on its way to joining the 22.8-mile long Olallie Trail. This trail and a portion of the Olallie Trail are open to mountain bikes as well as hiking. The out-and-back to MacDuff Mountain is approximately 10.5 miles with over 2700′ of elevation gain. The well graded trail makes the climb feel like less than that number though.

From the trailhead we crossed FR 411 to a pointer for the Castle Rock and O’Leary Trails.

We quickly arrived at a junction where the Castle Rock Trail headed left.

From this junction it is approximately 5 miles to the summit of Castle Rock. We wouldn’t have gone that route even if we had stuck to the original plan to visit it first. We would have parked at the Castle Rock Trailhead which is only 1.2-miles from that peak’s summit.

We stayed straight on the O’Leary Trail and quickly became soaked by the damp vegetation along the trail.

There were some nice rhododendron blooms along the trail.

It was hard to tell if it was actually raining or if the low clouds/fog was just leaving the trees and plants damp but either way drops were falling from overhead as we climbed a series of switchbacks. These led us past some nice rock formations in the first mile and a half.

Spotted coralroot

The first of three crossings of FR 411, this is at the 0.4-mile mark.

Inside-out flower

Starflower

Yellowleaf iris

The trail is narrow at times but well maintiained.

Forest filled with rhododendron.

A closer look at the rhodies.

There were several madrones in the forest.

Little prince’s pine

Sugar sticks

There were a few places where we might have had a view if not for the clouds.

Stonecrop

Passing below some of the rock formations.

Anemones

Bleeding heart

The switchbacks became much rarer beyond the rock formations as the trail traversed the hillside below a ridgeline, and occasionally on the ridge.

The first small meadow that the trail passed through was full of blue-eyed Mary.

Northern phlox

Coming up on another small meadow.

Subalpine mariposa lily

Beargrass

A little under three miles from the trailhead the trail arrived at FR 411 for the second time.

We were briefly confused here because the Forest Service map showed the trail continuing straight across the road here, and the description from Hike Oregon was that you would cross the road here. There was no sign of the trail to be seen though. We wandered back and forth a bit then based on the topography decided that any continuation of the trail would be further up the road (to the right when arriving at the road). We walked approximately 100 yards to spot the continuation of the trail through the fog.
The fog didn’t help with our trying to find the trail. There was enough room along this section of road that parking and starting the hike from here would be possible.

Back on trail.

The trail made one of its steepest climbs from the road here then after briefly leveling out dropped back down to the road again.
Honeysuckle

More northern phlox

This meadow was full of bluehead gilia.

The trail dropped steeply as it rejoined FR 411.

Another brief road walk followed before the trail split off to the right at a pointer.
There was no parking room that we could see near this area.

It was only about a quarter of a mile between the two road crossings and the steep up and down had us questioning if it wouldn’t have been better just to stay on the road, but then we’d have missed the meadow of bluehead gilia.

The trail continued its gradual but steady climb for two more miles before arriving below the rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.
Vanilla leaf along the trail.

Bunchberry

Trillium

We stopped when we spotted something in the trail ahead that looked like it might be an animal. Using the camera to zoom we realized it was a grouse hen with her little chicks.

The hen got up and then the chicks headed into the underbrush. We felt bad having disturbed them, but once they’d moved, we calmly passed by while momma came back to gather her little ones.

This was all beargrass, but none of the plants in this area appeared to be planning on blooming this year.

Hermit thrush

The rocky summit of MacDuff Mountain.

Our hopes that the clouds might break up or lift before our arrival at MacDuff Mountain were in vain. It was a little past 11am but partly sunny skies were a distant dream. While there wouldn’t be any mountain views today the wildflowers blooming on the rocks made for a worthy destination on their own.
A lot of larkspur.

Subalpine mariposa lilies

Paintbrush and buckwheat

Cinquefoil

A penstemon

Before going up to the actual summit I passed beneath and back into the forest following the trail until it began to descend.

There is no trail to the summit, so I went up cross country along the forest border then across to a 1931 memorial plaque at the top.

The view from the top.

No blue sky that way.

No sign of clearing this way either.

Cliff beardtongue

Woodland-stars

Paintbrush

We didn’t stay at the summit long. There was a slight breeze and that combined with the damp conditions made things chilly. We were not as prepared for the chilly conditions as we probably should have been, but even after 14 years of hiking we occasionally do dumb stuff. We headed back down and along the way encountered the only other person we’d see all day, another hiker making good time going uphill. We got even wetter when an actual rain shower passed over (it was chunky rain and we both thought there might have been a little snow mixed in) before finally got to see at least a little blue sky.

Hey look, there is another ridge over there.

Ookow just starting to open up.

Steep climb or road walk? We chose the trail again on the way back.

A wetter road now thanks to the rain shower.

Blue sky, it does exist.

The clouds got a late start but eventually started lifting.

From this angle it looks like a statue.

Looking down from some of the switchbacks.

Cougar Reservoir

Pyrola

Sunlight!

Both of our GPS units experienced technical difficulties. Mine randomly decided I was going a different direction that wound up putting us almost 7 miles north of our actual position, and Heather’s track couldn’t be imported to Basecamp. From what I could piece together the hike was approximately 11.2 miles but would have been closer to 10.5 had I not gone past the summit.
I’ve never seen a track this far off.

The track after manually editing it.

Despite the lack of views and not being prepared for it to be quite that chilly this was a good hike. The trail was in great condition with nice forest and wildflowers throughout. It may be a busier trail on nicer weekend days, but it didn’t appear that it sees a lot of usage regardless. Happy Trails!

Flickr: MacDuff Mountain

Tags Castle Rock Trail, cougar reservoir, Hike Oregon, hiking, MacDuff Mountain, O'Leary Mountain Trail, O'Leary Trail Complex, Oregon, wildflowers, Willamette National Forest

Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Trip report

Kilchis Falls, South Triangulation Point, and Cedar Butte – 06/08/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date June 10, 2024
1 Comment on Kilchis Falls, South Triangulation Point, and Cedar Butte – 06/08/2024

We’re continually looking for hikes that are new to us which led us to a pair of such hikes in the Tillamook State Forest. William L. Sullivan includes the 1.6-mile round trip to a former lookout site in Cedar Butte as an additional, non-featured hike in his “100 Hikes Oregon Coast” guidebook. A hike that short didn’t warrant the 2hr drive from Salem, so I took a look at the Oregonhikers.org field guide for other nearby hikes. That research revealed the Triangulation Point Loop. The field guide entry mentioned that the loop could be started from a saddle on the north side of Cedar Butte which was just over a mile from the Cedar Butte Trailhead.

We decided to start with the long loop first. We drove up the steep, narrow Cedar Butte Road past the Cedar Butte Trailhead and parked at the saddle overlooking a clearcut.
From the saddle South Triangulation Point, the highpoint of the loop, is to the right.

We would be doing the loop clockwise to avoid ending the loop with a climb back up to up to the saddle. We headed down Kilchis Forest Road which wound down through the clearcut before entering the forest.

The roadside was lined with wildflowers which we focused on over the missing trees.
Bleeding heart

Fairy lanterns

Solomonseal

Inside-out flower

Paintbrush

Lupine

Starflower

Salmonberry

Cardwell’s penstemon

Beargrass

Wallflower

Little-leaf montia

Fringecup

Salal

Rosy bird’s-foot trefoil

Band-tailed pigeons

Looking back at the saddle before heading into the trees.

Vetch

Leaving the clearcut.

The road leveled out in the forest making for a pleasant walk. Two miles from the saddle we arrived at 100′ Kilchis Falls.

Rock cliffs marking the location of Kilchis Falls.

Located on a tributary of the North Fork Kilchis River the falls reportedly seldom have much flow, but there was enough water today to make for a pretty sight.

The small pool below the falls.

Avens

Spider hiding on a columbine.

Scouler’s corydalis

Youth-on-age

Valerian

After a relaxing break at the falls, we continued along Kilchis Forest Road which approached the North Fork Kichis River and then followed it NW.

Hedgenettle

Waterfall on an unnamed creek. It was quite a way back in thick vegetation.

The above waterfall sans zoom.

Buttercup

Fick Creek joining the river.

Potholes on the North Fork Kilchis River.

Triangulation Creek flowing into the river.

Approximately two miles from Kilchis Falls we crossed the river on a bridge.

We continued to follow the river for another 0.6-miles where Middle Road joined steeply from the right.

Snail shadow on a iris.

Middle Road coming downhill on the right. This is the Middle Road Trailhead mentioned in the Oregonhikers.org field guide.

We made a sharp right turn here and began the difficult climb to South Triangulation Point.

Middle Road isn’t really a road anymore and is only suitable for high clearance 4wd vehicles or OHVs. We huffed and puffed up this track passing a road on the left after 1.3 miles and arriving at a saddle in another 0.3 miles.

A very blurry picture of a doe that was way down the hillside in the forest.

Large rock and log in the middle of Middle Road.

Monkeyflower surrounded by candyflower

Paintbrush on some cliffs above Middle Road.

Thistle

The road at the 1.3-mile mark along Middle Road.

The saddle at the 1.6-mile mark.

Memorial at the saddle.

We took a break at the saddle before continuing the climb. We passed another road on the left approximately half a mile from the saddle then came to 4-way junction 0.6 miles later.
Middle Road continuing on from the saddle.

Beargrass

The road on the left at the 2.1-mile mark.

Iris

Stream flowing down the road.

Coming up to the 4-way junction.

From the junction we took the righthand fork signed “FB3”.
Middle Road from the 4-way junction.

The two lefthand forks at the 4-way junction.

FB3

The elevation at the 4-way junction is about 2600′ and the Middle Road Trailhead is just over 800′ so we’d gained over 1800′ on Middle Road. South Triangulation Point tops out at 3255′ meaning we were still over 650′ below its summit so neither of us were pleased when FB3 proceeded to lose approximately 100′ of elevation in the first 0.6 miles.

Monkeyflower

Beargrass, paintbrush and penstemon

More flowers on a rocky outcrop along FB3.

A bunch of monkeyflowers.

When the road finally started climbing again it was more gradual than Middle Road had been. In 3/4 of a mile, we gained 350′ before coming to a fork.
Springs along the road.

Snake cooling off in the mud.

The snake didn’t budge as we passed around it.

This fork is approximately 4.2 miles from the Middle Road Trailhead.

At the fork we veered uphill to the left. This road gained nearly another 300′ in half a mile where it arrived at a saddle between Triangulation Point and South Triangulation Point.
Snake number two on the day.

This one didn’t budge either.

Switchback below the saddle.

Approaching the saddle.

Gated road up Triangulation Point.

South Triangulation Point

The wildflower display at the saddle was impressive and we spent some time admiring the blooms.
Serviceberry, paintbrush, yarrow, and iris.

Paintbrush and Cardwell’s penstemon

Iris

Broadleaf arnica, paintbrush and penstemon

Columbine among others.

Broadleaf arnica

Aside from a vehicle that was just leaving the saddle below Cedar Butte when we’d arrived that morning we hadn’t seen anyone all day. That changed at South Triangulation Point as a group of dirt bikes had arrived while we were taking a break at the switchback below the saddle. We took a left fork in the road and made our way to the summit where we briefly spoke with them.
Final pitch to the summit.

We could see our car parked at the saddle below Cedar Butte from South Triangulation Point.

Motorcycle track heading down from the summit with Triangulation Point on the other side of the saddle.

Looking to the NW you can see out to the Pacific Ocean. The line of peaks furtherst back staring from left to right consists of Neahkahnie Mountain (post), Angora Peak (post), West Onion & Onion Peaks, Sugarloaf Mountain, and Kidders Butte.

Closer look at Surgarloaf Mountain and Kidder Butte.

Wildflowers on South Triangulation Point.

After a break we headed down the road to the fork where we turned left and quickly began a steep half mile descent to a 5-way junction.

Another nice clump of wild iris.

Lupine

Flowers lining the road.

More motorcycles at the 5-way junction.

We stayed straight at this junction and continued downhill sticking to the main road at all junctions.

Variable-leaf collomia

The road briefly followed a narrow ridge.

Anemones

Moth

Heather spotted this little one. Not sure if it’s a vole, pocket gopher, or something else.

A little over a mile from our car we passed a series of wet cliffs that were putting on a spectacular flower display.

Silverleaf phacelia and chickweed

A lomatium

Larkspur and monkeyflower

This pink larkspur really stood out on the cliffs.

Littleleaf miner’s-lettuce

Several types of yellow wildflowers.

The cliffs helped explain why the road had dipped so far below Kilchis Saddle where our car was. Shortly after passing them the road began a final climb to the saddle gaining close to 200′ in the final three quarters of a mile.
Still dropping a little after the cliffs.

Bleeding heart and candyflower

Climbing the road at the edge of the clearcut.

The saddle where our car was parked across the clearcut.

South Triangulation Point from Cedar Butte Road.

South Triangulation Point

Looking down the North Fork Kilchis River valley from the saddle.

For us this loop came in at 12.7 miles a little over 2700′ of elevation gain. Despite being on roads some of the elevation change was quite steep adding to the difficulty. That being said this was a good hike with a nice waterfall and lots of wildflowers. We encountered about a dozen motorbikes, all between South Triangulation Point and end of the hike and we didn’t hear them all that often either.

It had been a long hard loop, so Heather chose not to add another 780′ climb when we arrived at the Cedar Butte Trailhead.

I on the other hand am a glutton for punishment so I threw my pack back on and walked 250′ up a gravel road to a signboard marking the start of the Cedar Butte Trail.
The trail information lists the hike as “difficult” due to the amount of elevation gained over just three quarters of a mile to the summit.

The start of the Cedar Butte Trail.

The trail began fairly level passing through some heavy brush before breaking into a second growth forest.

Star-flowered false solomonseal

Black-headed grosbeak

False lily of the valley

The trail didn’t really begin to climb until the 0.3-mile mark where it made a series of short switchbacks then alternated between steep straightaways and more switchbacks.
The trail was in good shape with just one small tree down over it.

Blue-eyed Mary

Small saddle below the summit.

Beargrass

Phlox

Final pitch to the summit.

Wild onion

Benches at the former lookout site.

View from the summit.

Wildflowers at the summit.

On the way back down I took a short, steep spur trail to a viewpoint where I could see Kings Mountain (post) to the NE.
Kings Mountain is the high point to the right along the ridge.

After checking out the viewpoint I continued my descent and rejoined Heather at the trailhead.

Fairy bells and vanilla leaf

Almost back

This hike had been 1.6 miles and one heck of a climb. My legs were feeling all 3500′ on the day. Late Spring seems like a good time to visit this area as the wildflowers were the highlight. Kilchis Falls was nice but at different times of the year the flow would likely diminish the appeal quite a bit. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Kilchis Falls, South Triangulation Point, and Cedar Butte

Tags Cedar Butte, Cedar Butte Trail, Cedar Butte Trailhead, FB3, hiking, Kilchis Falls, Kilchis Forest Road, Middle Road, North Fork Kilchis River, Oregon, Oregon Coast Range, South Triangulation Point, Tillamook State Forest, Triangulation Point, wildflowers

Columbia Gorge North Hiking Trip report Washington

Cook Hill – 06/01/2024

Cook Hill is a 3015′ peak just east of Dog Mountain (post). Dog Mountain is famous for its wildflower meadows and has become so popular that permits are required for weekend hikes during the peak flower season. Cook Hill has its own, albeit less spectacular, meadows and a recent online report informed us that the wildflower display there was near peak. We did some shifting to our planned hikes and headed out to check them out for ourselves.

The hike up Cook Hill is on unofficial trails, partly using old logging roads, primarily on public lands. (A small section past the summit is on private land held by a lumber company.) Matt Reeder featured the hike in his “off the Beaten Trail” guidebook which is what put it on our radar. It can be done as a lollipop loop or a shorter out-and-back. Reeder’s description as well as older trip reports found online mentioned that the trail could be faint in places and that there was no signage present. This was no longer the case as we found a clear trail the entire route and some signage was now present. It may be that the implementation of the permit system has driven more people to this hike, or it may just be more well known now. Whatever the reason we were thankful to those that have been maintaining the unofficial trail.

We arrived at 6:30am and were the third car at the trailhead.
The trailhead is just a large gravel pullout along Cook-Underhill Road.

From the parking area we crossed the road to Jackson Rd (to the left in the above photo).
There is no parking for the trail anywhere along Jackson Rd.

Approximately a tenth of a mile up Jackson Road we came to a gate with a “Cook Trailhead” sign.

We followed the roadbed uphill through a mixed forest with a lot of poison oak off to the sides.

Ookow surrounded by poison oak.

Mt. Defiance (post) across the Columbia River.

Large-flower triteleia

Monkeyflower along the road.

Ookow

Small waterfall through the vegetation.

The first of two crossings of this unnamed creek.

There was a lot of spotted coralroot along the road.

Most of the trees had been cleared from the road, those that remained were easily stepped over.

Anemones

The second creek crossing.

Lupine

White groundsel

Small spring near the junction with the start of the loop.

Reeder mentioned a rock cairn at the start of the loop which was still present, but now there were signs too.

Going counterclockwise seemed to be preferred direction based on trip reports. This was also the shorter distance to the summit at 1.6-miles.

The clockwise sign listed the summit as 2.8-miles away in that direction.

We chose counterclockwise and continued through the forest. The roadbed had been fairly steep but soon this trail began to steepen even more as it approached the small lower meadow.

Arriving at the lower meadow.

At the meadow the trail turned directly uphill through the flowers before reentering the forest.

Balsamroot

Groundsel and balsamroot

Lupine

Death camas

The rocks up ahead made for some nice seats to take in the view from.

Mt. Hood peaking over the ridge to the left with Mt. Defiance to the right.

Mt. Hood

After a much needed break we continued steeply through the forest to the start of the next, much longer meadow.

Vanilla leaf

Starflower

Fairybells

The start of the long upper meadow.

There wasn’t as much balsamroot in the upper meadow, but rather a wide variety of flowers in various stages of blooming.
Larkspur

Violets

Slender phlox and blue-eyed Mary

Phlox

Balsamroot surrounded by larkspur and coastal manroot.

Coastal manroot

Groundsel

Dog Mountain from the meadow.

Chocolate lily

This was the closest lupine to blooming in the upper meadow.

Chickweed

Oregon sunshine yet to boom.

Mt. Hood from the meadow.

The trail continued to climb through the meadow with increasingly better views and flowers.

Woodland stars, larkspur, and lomatium.

Yellow buttercups lining the trail.

Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance

Mt. Hood

Mt. Defiance

Alpine pennycress

Larkspur and lomatium

Chocolate lily eating a buttercup.

Largeleaf sandwort

The final stretch of the upper meadow.

Violets

Phlox

Dog Mountain

Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance from the upper meadow.

Table Mountain (post) and Greenleaf Peak (post) further to the west beyond Dog Mountain.

Phlox, paintbrush, and lomatium

After slowly making our way through the meadow the trail climbed to the forested summit of Cook Hill.

At this point we had hiked a little over 3.5-miles and gained over 2800′. To complete the loop portion of the hike we continued past the summit and made an initially steep descent along a ridge past some more meadow and occasional views of Mt. Adams to the north.

Mt. Adams from between trees.

Arnica

The final stretch of the steep descent was through this forest with no understory.

The trail then leveled out along with the ridge and actually made a very gradual climb to a radio tower.

Vine maple overhanging the trail.

It’s hard to tell from the photo but these were huge paintbrushes.

Another view of Mt. Hood and Mt. Defiance.

Dogwood

Trillium

The first tower.

The trail continued past the radio tower to the left on a roadbed and soon passed under a large set of powerlines near more towers at Cook Hill Saddle.

Looking toward Mt. Adams from beneath the powerlines.

Mt. Adams

Wind Mountain (post) sticking up to the left before the Columbia River.

We made a hard right beneath the powerlines on a fainter old roadbed that quickly reentered the forest.
The faint roadbed heading left back toward the forest.

We followed this roadbed back to the signed junction to complete the loop. This part of the trail was more overgrown with a few more logs to step over but it was still quite easy to follow and navigate.

Wild ginger

Candyflower

The trail passed under a talus slope where a fair number of flowers were present.

Lupine and yarrow

Stonecrop

Bee visiting penstemon.

The talus slope.

Descending to the junction.

At the junction we turned right to head back to the car. At this point we’d encountered just three other hikers, but now that it was later, and we were off the loop we passed around two dozen more hikers heading up.

Ookow and bachelor buttons along the trail.

Bachelor button

Heather spotted this arctic skipper on some vetch.

Clarkia. It wasn’t open yet when we’d passed by in the morning.

There were a lot of phantom orchids starting along the lower portion of the hike, but this was the only one with any flowers opened.

Cook-Underhill Road from Jackson Road.

The hike was challenging at 8.5-miles and over 2900′ of elevation gain, but the views and the flowers had made the effort worth it.

The parking area was full when we got back, and several cars had parked along the shoulder of the road which could become an issue at some point. The other thing we saw that could cause problems were the bags of dog poop left along Jackson Road, yuck. Please be respectful of both public and private lands and happy trails!

Flickr: Cook Hill

Tags arctic skipper, Columbia River Gorge, Cook Hill, Cook Hill Saddle, Cook Hill Trailhead, hiking, Washington, wildflowers

Hiking Oregon Salem/Albany Trip report Willamette Valley

Baskett Slough Wildlife Refuge – 05/28/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date June 1, 2024
4 Comments on Baskett Slough Wildlife Refuge – 05/28/2024

I extended my Memorial Day Weekend by taking a vacation day, and what better way to follow up a weekend of hiking than taking another hike. I turned to our nearest wildlife refuge and returned to Baskett Slough for a quick morning hike. This would be my fifth visit (far too few) with the most recent having been last April (post).

I started out at the Baskett Butte Trailhead and hiked up to the Rich Guadagno Observation Platform on Mt. Baldy hoping for a colorful Sunrise.

The best of the color was while I was still at the trailhead.

Checkerbloom

Common madia

Meadow checker-mallow and vetch

The platform

Too late for any color.

From the platform I headed out to the Morgan Lake Loop. There didn’t seem to be many birds around until I got to Moffitti Marsh.
There always seems to a western meadowlark or two on Mt. Baldy.

Spotted towhee

I went left to hike the loop clockwise.

Moffitti Marsh in the distance.

Geese flying over.

Snake in the grass.

Pied-billed grebes

Common yellowthroats

Gadwalls

Moffitti Marsh

Dove

Beyond the marsh the trail follows a fence line along farmland where I spotted a northern harrier. Normally these birds fly off quickly, but the one sat on his post as I slowly got close enough to get some decent zoomed photos.

When he finally flew off I continued to the Smithfield Road Trailhead then continued on the loop toward Morgan Lake.
House finch

Swallow

Sparrow

Crow

Goose family

Common yellow-throat (female)

Roses

Columbine

White-crowned sparrow

Ookow

Tolmie’s mariposa lily

After completing the Morgan Lake Loop I returned to the trailhead by completing the Rich Guadagno Memorial Loop.

Waxwing

After returning to the car I decided to check out a part of the refuge that I hadn’t seen before by driving out Coville Road to a parking area at Cottonwood Pond. It was a quarter to 8am and I wanted to avoid joining the morning rush hour traffic on the highway. It turned out to be a good decision because, as luck would have it, an American Bittern was sitting in grass near the mostly dry pond.

I watched the bittern for a few minutes then hopped back in the car and headed home. This was a 4.9-mile hike with 340′ of elevation gain.
Cottonwood Pond is in the lower left corner.

This was a nice way to end my long weekend leaving me plenty of time to do things like write these trip reports. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Baskett Slough 2024

Tags American Bittern, Baskett Butte, Baskett Butte Trailhead, Baskett Slough Wildlife Refuge, Cottonwood Pond, Coville Road, hiking, Morgan Lake, Northern Harrier, Oregon, Rich Guadagno Memorial Loop Trail, Smithfield Road Trailhead

Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Crooked River Wetlands – 05/27/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 31, 2024
1 Comment on Crooked River Wetlands – 05/27/2024

To wrap up our Memorial Day Weekend trip to Prineville we visited the Crooked River Wetlands Complex

The wetlands were opened in 2017 as a solution to the city’s wastewater needs. The complex has 5.4-miles of trails, over half of which are paved, that loop around 15 ponds of varying sizes. We were the third car to arrive, however, there were numerous raucous birds.

The yellow-headed blackbirds were particularly noisy.

A cinnamon teal in front of two mallards?

With so many loop possibilities this is a choose your own route area. Ours wound up being primarily on the Outer Loop, but we cut back in toward the parking area between ponds 5 & 1 to make sure we passed all 13 interpretive signboards.
This loop was 3.4-miles.

Grizzly Mountain from Pond 4.

Killdeer

One of the interpretive signboards ahead.

Goose family

There were plenty of benches to enjoy the views from.

Mallards

Cinnamon teal

Must be a green-winged teal but the angle of light made the patch on his head look blue.

We’d never seen so many killdeer in one area.

Spotted sandpipers

Brewer’s blackbird

Swallow

Pollinator garden

Ring-necked ducks

Wilson’s phalarope

Yellow-headed blackbirds

American coot

Adolescent geese

Dove

Gadwalls

Female yellow-headed blackbird

Pair of bucks.

Ruddy ducks

Red-winged blackbird harassing an osprey.

Gray Butte

A pair of hawks.

Not birds.

Marsh wren

Great blue heron

Observation deck at Pond 10.

Another marsh wren.

Heading back to the parking area.

We had a lot of fun watching and listening to the birds here, and it was perfect for a morning walk. The distance allowed us to be on our way back to Salem shortly after 8am which was early enough that we avoided most of the holiday traffic.

After this weekend’s hikes we’re down to a dozen Eastern Oregon featured hikes to complete our quest for 500 (post). Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crooked River Wetlands

Tags birds, Cinnamon Teal, Crooked River Wetlands, Crooked River Wetlands Complex, Ducks, gadwall, geese, hiking, marsh wren, Oregon, Osprey, Prineville, Ruddy Duck, Wilson's Phalarope, Yellow headed blackbird

Blue Mountains - North Hiking Oregon Trip report

Madison Butte and Bull Prairie Lake – 05/26/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 30, 2024
2 Comments on Madison Butte and Bull Prairie Lake – 05/26/2024

**Note the 2024 Monkey Creek Fire burned over the access road to this hike but spared the trails.**

We were spending Memorial Day Weekend in Prineville primarily due to our plan to hike the Madison Butte Trail. This trail was a new featured hike in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” first edition. We had switched to this edition last year after deciding we were not willing to try and drive to Dug Bar in Hells Canyon (post). We were excited for this trail primarily due to the fact that it was located in an area of Oregon that we hadn’t previously hiked in. The trailhead is located in the Umatilla National Forest east of Highway 207 between Heppner and Spray.
Sign for the trailhead along FS21.

We wound up parking along the shoulder instead of driving down the short dirt road to the official trailhead.

This mud and torn up area was why we chose the shoulder instead.

The trail began at a gate and followed an old roadbed steeply uphill.

Arnica near the trailhead.

The forest was a mix of ponderosa pine and juniper with numerous wildflowers.

Broomrape

Larkspur

Death camas

Lomatium and few-flowered pea-vine

Lupine

Woodland star

Oregon sunshine

Violet

McClellan Mountain, Moon Mountain and Fields Peak (post) in the Aldrich Mountains.

Balsamroot

At the 0.8-mile mark we passed a downed trail sign marking the junction with a spur trail to Tupper Butte.

The clearer track to the left leads to Tupper Butte in approximately 0.3-miles. We continued straight on the Madison Butte Trail.

The Strawberry Mountains with Strawberry Mountain (post) on the left and Canyon Mountain (post) on the right.

Shortly after passing the junction the trail entered a mixed forest and passed through a barbed wire fence.

Glacier lily

The fence in the distance.

After passing the fence the trail began a series of ups and downs as it followed a wide ridge. The first descent was long and steep as the trail dropped to the first of three saddles.

Huckleberry

Mt. Hood

Old man’s whiskers

Ball-head waterleaf

Small bluebells

Paintbrush

Trail marker on the tree.

One of two fresh piles of scat along the trail.

The markers were helpful because the trail was quite faint at times.

Slender phlox

Shooting stars

Rock outcrop along the trail at the 2.1-mile mark.

View from the rock outcrop.

Larches

Chocolate lily

Lance-leaf spring beauty

Violets

Madison Butte from the trail.

Just over 2.5-miles from the trailhead we arrived at Bottle Spring.

Bottle Spring

Pond below the spring.

Glacier lilies

A short climb from the spring brought us to Madison Butte Road.

Trail sign at Madison Butte Road.

We turned right on the road and followed it uphill for a mile to the Madison Butte Lookout.

Blue-eyed Mary

The Copple Butte Trail joining from the right.

Mt. Jefferson poking up in the distance.

Wild onions

There were a bunch of grass widows blooming below the lookout.

Access to the lookout platform was locked but I was able to climb most of the way up to enjoy the views.
The Strawberry and Aldrich Mountains to the south.

The Elkhorns (post) beneath the clouds.

The Elkhorns with Mt. Ireland (post) the high point on the right.

Looking SW we could see Mt. Jefferson and also make out the Three Sisters further to the south. Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams were also visible although partially obscured by clouds.

We took a nice long break at the summit and explored a bit before heading back.

A rockcress

On the way down the road the butterflies were out, and we spotted a yellow-bell lily that we’d missed on the way up.
Swallowtail

Milbert’s tortoiseshell

Skipper

As we neared the Madison Butte Trail we spotted a pair of hikers at Bottle Spring. I remarked to Heather that it would be funny if it were Cheryl and Greg, a pair of fellow adventurers. Cheryl is currently working on a book on Oregon’s lookouts, and we’d run into her last year on our hike to the Sand Mountain Lookout (post). That wasn’t the first time we’d crossed paths though. We had also run into her near Table Lake (post) in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness in 2018 and in Jefferson Park a couple of years before that. As we neared the other hikers we realized it was in fact them. It turned out that they had discussed how funny it would be if they knew the people that owned the other car at the trailhead. We had a nice talk and learned that she was down to just 35 publicly accessible lookouts (out of over 150) to visit before heading our separate ways.

It was a quite hike down to the trailhead with Cheryl and Greg being the only other people we’d see here all day.
Mushroom

Fairy slipper

A particularly large paintbrush.

Orange tip

Larkspur

This came in at 8.5-miles with 2540′ of elevation gain.

We had a second stop planned for the day at Bull Prairie Lake which was just three paved miles off of Highway 207. A 1.2-mile trail loops around the man-made lake which sports a large campground and day use picnic area.

We’d brought a sandwich and chips to have for lunch at the picnic area before taking the leisurely stroll around the lake.

Violets

Ring-necked ducks and an American coot

Arnica

Ducklings

Ring-necked duck

Fleabane?

Camas

A coot and a sandpiper

Red-winged blackbird

Our first eared grebe.

After completing the loop we drove back to Prineville and after the long day were looking for something on the quicker side for dinner so we tried The Dawg House. This turned out to be a good choice as the sausages and onion rings were a perfect post hike meal. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Madison Butte and Bull Prairie Lake

Tags Bull Prairie Lake, Bull Prairie Lake Campground, hiking, Madison Butte, Madison Butte Lookout, Madison Butte Trail, milbert's tortoiseshell, Oregon, The Dawg House, Umatilla National Forest, wildflowers

Central Oregon Hiking Ochoco Mountains Oregon Trip report

Willow Creek Trail, Juniper Hills, and Barnes Butte – 05/25/24

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 29, 2024
5 Comments on Willow Creek Trail, Juniper Hills, and Barnes Butte – 05/25/24

**Note the 2024 Elk Lane Fire burned a small portion of the Willow Creek Trail near where we turned around.**

Our primary hiking goal for 2024 is to finally finish our quest to hike at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes” guidebooks (post). Sullivan separates Oregon into five regions: Oregon Coast, NW Oregon, Central Cascades, Southern Oregon, and Eastern Oregon. We’ve focused on one specific edition for each region and have now managed to finish all but an Eastern Oregon edition. We had been focused on the third edition of his “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” but switched to his first edition “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” last year after deciding we weren’t willing to attempt the drive to Dug Bar in Hells Canyon (post). Sullivan had removed Dug Bar from the featured hikes along with six other hikes which we had already completed. (Note that we went from a 3rd to a 1st edition. This is due to Sullivan dropping “Travel Guide” from his book’s titles even though they still contain lots of helpful travel information.)

Four of the new featured hikes were in, or near, Central Oregon. More specifically the Prineville area, so we decided to book a room there for Memorial Day Weekend. One of these new featured hikes posed a problem though. New hike 18 – Juniper Hills is on land owned by The Nature Conservancy and at some point, after the book was published, public access to the area was closed. An email prior to us leaving confirmed the closure which left us without a way to legally do the hike. We weighed our options, reverting to the previous edition and daring the drive to Dug Bar, or driving to Juniper Hills and taking pictures from the would-be trailheads. We decided on the latter with hopes that someday public access may be restored, possibly by permit and/or reservations.

We had originally planned on doing two of the featured hikes on Saturday before checking into our room, Willow Creek and Juniper Hills. With hiking being out at Juniper Hills we added a third stop to the day to check out Barnes Butte in Prineville. Our first stop was in Madras, OR at the Willow Creek Trailhead which wound up being one of the sketchiest trailheads we’ve been to.

There was a large homeless camp along Willow Creek beyond the large gravel parking area and several people just mulling about with no other cars around. According to recent news reports the city will be removing the camp on or around June 11th. We decided to go ahead and chance leaving the car rather than trying to find a different starting point based off of the city maps online. We crossed the creek on a footbridge and followed the paved trail just over half a mile to a fork above SW Canyon Road. We forked left and descended to a crosswalk then began climbing “M Hill”.

M Hill from the trail.

The crosswalk on SW Canyon Road.

Kiosk at the bottom of the hill.

The trail climbed for a half mile to the identifier.

The “M” on the side of the hill.

It was a little cloudy on top, but we could make out several snowy cascades and most of the lower peaks to the SE.
<Gray Butte (post), Haystack Butte, and Juniper Butte to the left. Broken Top and the Three Sisters are the snow-covered peaks to the right.

Broken Top and the Three Sisters to the left with Mt. Jefferson to the right.

Broken Top and the Three Sisters

Mt. Jefferson

After taking in the view we returned to the fork and took a left to head into the Willow Creek Canyon. The trail made a quick climb then dropped to another crossing of SW Canyon Road.
Ash-throated flycatcher

On the far side of the road the trail became gravel before giving way to dirt.

Passing under a trestle and a siphon pipe.

We continued approximately 2.5-miles after crossing the road turning around at a junction with the former Willow Creek Road. The scenery was great in the canyon with lots of flowers and birds and we didn’t see any snakes.

Lupin

A lomatium

Ringlet

Ground squirrel

Marmot

Crossing the dry bed of Willow Creek.

Fiddleneck

Hawk

Desert yellow fleabane

Small cascade flowing into Willow Creek.

cut-leaf thelypody

Carey’s balsamroot

Rocky Mountain iris

Lazuli bunting

Taper-tip onion

Bullock’s oriole near the top of the photo.

Silverleaf phacelia

Paintbrush

Just before reaching the old roadbed we spotted several deer making their way up the hillside.

Our turnaround spot. The deer were watching us from just right of the largest rock outcrop.

We returned the way we came passing only two other hikers before reaching SW Canyon Road.
Yarrow and silverleaf phacelia above Willow Creek.

Rock wren

Raven nest

This appears to be hound’s tongue.

The car windows were all still intact when we got back to the trailhead which we were thankful for. Aside from the trailhead anxiety this was a lovely 7.4-mile hike with around 500′ of elevation gain.

From Madras we drove to Prineville then continued to the Juniper Hills Preserve by taking Highway 380 through Post, Oregon which is near the geographic center of Oregon. We parked along the shoulder of the highway at a “Private Property No Trespassing” sign with a view of Oregon’s other painted hills. (The official Painted Hills (post) are part of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument.)

After admiring the painted hills we drove back toward Prineville 1.4-miles and pulled off next to another former trailhead at the Preserve.

Since getting out of the car and walking up to the closed gates was all that was possible at this time we are counting this visit toward the 100. If access is ever restored we will be back but for now we’re just happy that some of the painted hills were visible from the highway.

We made the 35-mile drive back to Prineville and headed for the Barnes Butte Trailhead.

The Barnes Butte Recreation Area has been developed by the Central Oregon Trails Alliance and the City of Prineville on city and Bureau of Land Management land.

A paved loop trail begins at the trailhead and connects to numerous other mixed-use trails (open to biking and hiking). I had found a couple of hiking routes online but both the Oregonhikers and AllTrails maps did not include all of the recently developed trails, so we studied the map at the trailhead and came up with our own route.

Our plan was to begin on the Calumet Trail then turn right at a 4-way junction to cross the paved trail and take the Baby Burma Trail up Barnes Butte to The Meadow Trail. From there we would make the side trip to the summit then descend via The Meadow to the Canal Trail. We could take the Canal Trail most of the way back to the trailhead before it would drop us onto the Paved Trail 0.3 of a mile from the trailhead. This would minimize our time on pavement and save our feet for the rest of the weekend’s hikes.

Of course we immediately chose the wrong path and forked left from the signboard on a wide dirt path when we should have gone right on a narrower dirt path. After a tenth of a mile we found ourselves at the canal and had to turn around and take the correct path.
Grizzly Mountain from the wrong path.

Barnes Butte from the Calumet Trail.

The Calumet Trail wound through the grassland for nearly a mile before arriving at the unsigned 4-way junction.

Threadleaf phacelia

Barnes Butte from the 4-way junction.

We turned right and after 0.2-miles crossed the Paved Trail to a Baby Burma sign.

The Baby Burma Trail climbed an old roadbed for half a mile gaining nearly 300′ to a signed junction at a saddle.

Penstemon

Milkvetch

Phlox

Mt. Jefferson beyond Gray Butte.

Rock outcrop below Barnes Butte.

Cinnabar Mine

A skipper and flies on a groundsel.

A sulphur

We turned left onto The Meadow then forked right to climb Barnes Butte. Reaching the summit required scrambling up a couple of rocky slopes where I was forced to use my hands. Heather opted not to follow.
The trail to the summit.

Bench at the summit.

The summit provided a 360-degree view.
L to R: Black Butte (post), Smith Rocks, Gray Butte, Mt. Jefferson, and Grizzly Mountain with Barnes Butte Reservoir below.

Round Mountain to the east (post).

Powell Buttes to the SW with Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top and the Three Sisters beyond.

Mt. Bachelor (post)

Broken Top and the Three Sisters

After taking in the view I descended to where Heather was waiting, and we headed down The Meadow.
Of course by heading down it meant we started with a slight climb on The Meadow.

Viewpoint along The Meadow.

Orange globe-mallow

Buckwheat

When we arrived at a sign for the Canal Trail we turned left on a dirt track following a former ditch.

A hairstreak

The Canal Trail running parallel to the Pave Trail.

Mountain identifier

Coming up on the end of the Canal Trail.

Lizard

Arriving back at the trailhead.

We ended up with an extremely disfigured figure-eight here consisting of 3.9-miles and 550′ of elevation gain.

We were a bit surprised at just how enjoyable the hike at Barnes Butte had been. This is a really nice area and seemed to be quite popular, yet it never felt busy. It had been much more than just a time killer while we waited for check-in time. Speaking of which it was now a little after 3pm so we headed for our motel, got checked in and cleaned up, then headed next door to Club Pioneer where we met up with Heather’s family for a wonderful dinner. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Willow Creek, Juniper Hills, and Barnes Butte

Tags Barnes Butte, Barnes Butte Recreation Area, Central Oregon, Club Pioneer, hiking, Juniper Hills, Juniper Hills Preserve, M Hill, Madras, Oregon, Painted Hills, Prineville, Willow Creek Canyon, Willow Creek Trail, Willow Creek Trailhead

Coastal Range Hiking Oregon

Elk Creek to Idiot Creek Road (Wilson River Trail) – 05/18/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 20, 2024
No Comments on Elk Creek to Idiot Creek Road (Wilson River Trail) – 05/18/2024

The Wilson River Trail currently runs 24.6 miles, with its western end beginning at Muesial Creek Road and its eastern end at Idiot Creek Road. We previously hiked two sections of the trail – the Kings Mountain TH to the Elk Creek TH segment twice (2010 & 2022) and the Footbridge TH to Jones Creek TH segment (2014). It was time to check out another section of the trail and we set our sights on the Elk Creek TH to Idiot Creek Road TH segment.

We parked at the Elk Creek Trailhead since it is the more convenient of the two trailheads to reach. There are a small number of parking spots across from a signboard where we had begun both of our Elk/Kings Mountain loops which is where we once again parked.
The first signboard near the small parking area.

We hadn’t fully woken up yet, so we didn’t think to simply take the trail here uphill 100 feet to the Wilson River Trail. Instead walked along the shoulder of Elk Creek Road to a much larger parking area at roads end.
Elk Creek Road from the small parking area.

The larger parking area.

There was another signboard at this trailhead which we stopped at to study the map.

After confirming our route, we set off past a Wilson River Trail sign and came to a junction where we realized we could have avoided the 500′ road walk.

We turned right following a pointer for Idiot Creek Loop Road (note the road is currently not a loop due to a washed-out section). The trail quickly joined the old bed of Elk Creek Road.

We followed the old roadbed along Elk Creek for approximately a half mile to a well signed junction.

Bleeding heart

Salmonberry

Fairy lanterns

Largeleaf avens

Scouler’s corydalis

Coastal monkeyflower

At the junction we turned right and crossed the seasonal footbridge over Elk Creek. (In place May thru September.)

The trail traversed a hillside above Elk Creek for three quarters of a mile before heading uphill.

Fringecup

Trillium

Star flower

The well graded trail uses a combination of switchbacks and long traverses to climb over 1000′.

Looking down at the trail below.

Vanilla leaf

Spotted coralroot

Anemone

Western buttercup

Near the 2.7-mile mark we took a short spur trail to a rocky viewpoint.

Paintbrush, parsley, and blue-eyed Mary

From the viewpoint it was another third of a mile up to Idiot Creek Loop Road.

Fairy lanterns and paintbrush

I did just a bit of exploring along the road in each direction before we headed back down.

Lupine was just beginning to bloom along the road.

On the way back down.

We had briefly considered following the Elk Creek Trail from the junction near the footbridge before heading back to the car but decided to save that for another time.

West Fork Elk Creek to the left and Elk Creek to the right from the bridge.

The junction with the Elk Creek Trail.

We returned to the car by sticking to the actual Wilson River Trail this time ending the morning at 7.7 miles with a little under 1500′ of elevation gain.
We missed a section of leafy mitrewort on our earlier pass.

On the section of the trail we missed by taking Elk Creek Road.

The small parking area from the trail.

While there was a number of cars in the parking areas, we only passed 5 other hikers this morning. Mountain bikers would have gone out the Elk Creek Trail and most hikers were likely headed to Elk Mountain or tackling the full Elk/Kings Mountain Loop. The hike to Idiot Creek Loop Road was pleasant and the gently graded trail made for a nice climb through the green forest. The lack of any major “wow” sights along the trail keeps this a quieter option for the area, but the creek, flowers, and forest make it worthy of a visit. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Elk Creek to Idiot Creek Loop Road

Tags Elk Creek, Elk Creek Footbridge, Elk Creek Trail, ELk Creek Trailhead, flowers, hiking, Idiot Creek Loop Road, Oregon, Tillamook State Forest, Wilson River Trail

Coastal Range Hiking Northern Coast Oregon Coast Trip report

Cathedral Tree, Young’s River Falls, and Fishhawk Falls – 05/12/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 15, 2024
No Comments on Cathedral Tree, Young’s River Falls, and Fishhawk Falls – 05/12/2024

After spending the night in Astoria following a full day of hiking (post) we woke up on Mother’s Day ready to head home. We couldn’t resist the opportunity to get a little more hiking in on the way there though.

Our plan for the day was visit the Astoria Column by way of the Cathedral Tree, then take an alternate route from Astoria to visit a pair of waterfalls. We made the short drive from our motel to the Richard Fenscak Cathedral Tree Trailhead on Irving Street and set off past a gate.

A map at the trailhead provides a high-level overview of the mile long route to the Astoria Column. The AllTrails map was particularly helpful as it showed most if not all of the spur trails. The trail begins as a wide gravel path that climbs, briskly at times, approximately 250′ in a third of a mile to a junction on a boardwalk.

Thimbleberry

Coming up on the start of the boardwalk.

Scouler’s corydalis at the base of the boardwalk.

The boardwalk junction.

We turned left at the junction and arrived at Cathedral Tree in just 150′.

The base of Cathedral Tree.

One of two benches near the 300+ year old stika spruce.

Cathedral Tree

After visiting the tree, we returned to the junction and continued uphill towards the column.

Beyond the boardwalk the trail was a bit rougher.

Trail markers were present at times to help identify the correct route.

Pacific waterleaf

The Astoria Columnn.

We wandered around the column taking in the views and the art on the column itself.

Megler Bridge

Young’s River on the left and the Lewis & Clark River on the right

The early bird.

We decided to go up the column since it had been years since I had visited, and Heather had never been.

The spiral staircase.

It was stuffy inside and with a rail only on one side of the staircase Heather quickly realized that this was going to be outside her comfort level so she headed back down. I continued to the top, a little dizzy, but otherwise feeling good.

The view was great despite the clouds. They were high enough to allow for decent visibility and they were already breaking up.

Young’s River

Traffic on the Columbia River.

Looking out toward the Pacific beyond Astoria.

Deer in the grass below the Astoria Column.

Heather below the column.

After taking in the view, I wound my way back down the stairs (and got dizzy again).

We returned to the Cathedral Tree trail and hiked back down to Irving Street.

This was a spur trail 0.2-miles from the column (0.6-mile from the trailhead) that also leads down to Irving Street and could be used for a loop if you don’t mind some street walking. We opted to pass and did the hike as an out-and-back.

False lily-of-the valley

The last trillium?

Fringecup

From the Cathedral Tree Trailhead we followed Google map directions through Astoria to Young’s River Road and eventually to Young’s River Falls Park.
The start of the short trail to the falls.

It was clear from the parking area that it is unfortunately popular with the party crowd who can’t be bothered to pack out their mess. Regardless the falls were impressive, and the 0.3-mile round trip was well worth the stop.
Interpretive signs near the start of the trail.

The falls were noted during Lewis and Clark’s stay at nearby Fort Clatsop (post).

This was a tough one to photograph due to the amount of spray being blown straight at us by the force of the water.

After admiring the falls we returned to the car and made our way to Highway 202 following directions from Google. Once we’d made it to the highway we headed SE to Lee Wooden Fishhawk Falls County Park.

A quarter-mile trail here leads to Fishhawk Falls which we honestly weren’t expecting much from.
We pulled over onto the shoulder of Hwy 202 to snap a picture of these bulls.

Bleeding heart

Fairybells

Scouler’s corydalis

We spotted it too late to get a photo, but as we neared the falls a bald eagle took flight. The trail ends at Fishhawk Creek nearly a tenth of a mile from the 72′ falls.

The view is good from the end of the trail, but since this was our last stop of the day I decided to ford the creek and get a closer look. The water was knee deep, but not too cold.

I was joined by a pair of ouzels at the falls.

Looking back at Heather on the other side of Fishhawk Creek.

Me through the trees below the falls.

Maybe it was the timing of our visit, but this was one of the nicest waterfalls we’ve seen in a while. We finally pulled ourselves away and returned to our car. We made one more stop on the way home at the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area to use the public restrooms before driving home.

Please note that you need a permit to park at the refuge.

The three short hikes came to a total of 3 miles and 500′ of elevation gain, mostly from the Cathedral Tree hike. They were quite enjoyable, and we were able to get home before Noon giving us time to unpack, clean up, and then visit my Mom on Mother’s Day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Cathedral Tree, Young’s River Falls, and Fishhawk Falls

Tags Astoria, Astoria Column, Cathedral Tree, Cathedral Tree Trail, Clatsop County, Fishhawk Falls, hiking, Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area, Lee Wooden Fishhawk Falls County Park, Oregon, Young's River, Young's River Falls, Young's River Falls Park

Hiking Northern Coast Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Crescent Beach, Ft. Stevens Historic District, and the Skipanon River Loop – 05/11/2024

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date May 14, 2024
3 Comments on Crescent Beach, Ft. Stevens Historic District, and the Skipanon River Loop – 05/11/2024

We spent Mother’s Day weekend hiking several trails in Clatsop County. We began on Saturday by driving to Ecola State Park and parking in the Ecola Point parking lot. We last visited the park in December 2013 when we hiked north along the Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) to Tillamook Head’s high point. (post)

For this visit our plan was to hike south on the OCT then take the Crescent Beach Trail down to that beach.
The trail begins near the restrooms.

The trail began by climbing via a couple sets of wooden stairs to Ecola Park Rd which it briefly followed along the shoulder.

Ecola Park Road.

Where the trail left the shoulder, we came to a pair of cyclists who we thought were looking out at the Ocean. It took a second for us to realize that they were actually watching a small herd of elk in the forest below.

After watching the elk for a moment we started down the trail which wound up switching back down toward the elk. Luckily they were following proper Leave No Trace Principals and remained an acceptable distance from the wild hikers.

We continued on past the elk following the OCT approximately a mile from parking lot to the junction with the Crescent Beach Trail.

Skunk cabbage

Scouler’s corydalis

Window to the Pacific.

We turned right at the junction and descended a quarter mile to Crescent Beach.

Ecola Point

Chapman Point and Bird Rocks

We decided to head north toward Ecola Point to check out the tide pools. We had inadvertently timed our visit nearly perfectly as it was about an hour and a half from low tide.
Prior to reaching the tide pools we passed Waterfall Creek.
The upper falls.

Waterfall Creek

The lower falls.

The tide pools from Waterfall Creek.

The tide pools wound up being some of the most impressive we’d seen. We spent a good amount of time walking around to the different pools. We were careful not to climb on any of the rocks or to disturb any of the wildlife. In fact some of the rocks that were exposed are likely part of the Oregon Islands Wilderness.

We found Patrick from Spongebob!

After admiring the tide pools we headed south along the beach toward Chapman Point and the Bird Rocks.

We were curious as to what forces carved out the backside of this rock.

Chapman Point is only passable at certain low tides. On the far side is Cannon Beach (post).

This cave through Chapman Point was flooded at the far end.

Pigeon guillemot

Goose

We turned around at Chapman Point and headed back to the Crescent Beach Trail.

Whibrel

We retraced our steps back to Ecola Point where the lot was beginning to fill up.

Seaside bittercress

Youth-on-age

Our hike here came to 4.4-miles with approximately 600′ of elevation gain.

We hopped in our car and headed north to Fort Stevens State Park for our next hike. There are several parking lots at Fort Stevens and we opted to park at Battery Russell lot.
Battery Russell from the lot.

As with Ecola Point we had started a hike here before. In September 2017 we visited Battery Russell, Coffenbury Lake, and a shipwreck at the park (post). Again today we were going in the opposite direction, this time north to visit the park’s Historic Area. We followed a paved path east from the parking lot then over Jetty Road on an overpass.

The overpass

We followed the paved path to a junction near a pill box where we went right.

The path led past Swash Lake which helped explain the host of mosquitos that were flying around us.

We stayed right at the next junction and Jetty Lagoon on the Swash Lake Bridge.

Looking out toward Swash Lake from the bridge.

A little under 2 miles form the parking lot we arrived at the visitor’s center.
The gate to the Historic Area is locked in the evening.

Visitor’s center

A number of trails and paths wind around the Historic Area as well as open spaces that one can simply walk across. We made up our own route based on a suggested hike from the Oregonhikers Field Guide.

We began by walking past a jeep on display and looping behind the visitor’s center.

From the visitor’s center we headed into a large open space where the barracks had once been.

We made our way to the far end of the open space and turned south to see the old guardhouse and Battery Clark.
The guardhouse on the left.

Battery Clark

We then turned back north cutting across the barracks area toward a pair of smooth bore cannons and Battery Freeman.

We passed the cannons and hiked through a guarded underpass.

Fort Stevens Earth Works.

We crossed a grassy field to the cannons atop the Earth Works then descended a staircase.

White-crowned sparrow

We cut across the grass below to the footbridge in the distance.

Columbia River

Looking west toward the Pacific.

At the Columbia we turned right on the Jetty Trail and followed it past some disc golf holes and Battery Smur to a former roadbed.

Battery Smur

The roadbed coming in from the former barracks site.

We turned left on this road and followed it to a gate and the former Torpedo Loading Room.
Mine Loading Building

Searchlight Generator

Torpedo Loading Room

We turned around here and walked back to the Jetty Trail and followed it west through the Disc Golf Course to the Clatsop Longhouse site.

From the longhouse site we continued on the Jetty Trail toward Battery 245.

Battery 245

We hiked around Battery 245 and onto Battery Mishler.

We passed this battery and Battery Pratt then veered right on a paved path which led back to the path we’d followed from Battery Russell.

Sign for the Lil’ Oozlefinch Putting Course.

We headed back toward the parking lot and at the Pill Box we veered right which was a more direct route to the parking lot. The drawback was that there was no overpass here so we had to watch for traffic before crossing Jetty Road.

Bald eagle

Gate near Jetty Road.

After crossing Jetty Road, we followed the paved path left a tenth of a mile to the Battery Russell parking lot. This hike came to 6.3-miles with just 75′ or so of elevation gain.

Our final stop of the day was just 5 miles from the Battery Russell parking lot at Lighthouse Park in Warrenton.

The parking lot at the park.

Our plan here was to hike the 2-mile Skipanon River Loop. Three things drew us to this trail. First it was a trail we hadn’t yet hiked. Secondly, we hadn’t hiked along the Skipanon River yet, and while it isn’t an official goal we are trying to visit as many of Oregon’s rivers as possible. Finally, one of our favorite post hike restaurants, Nisa’s Thai Kitchen is located along the route.

From the parking lot we crossed NE Skipanon Drive and followed the sidewalk past a storage facility to a path next to E Harbor Drive that promptly passed beneath the road.

Emerging from the underpass.

We turned right onto a paved path along the Skipanon River for a third of a mile to Skipanon River Park.

Mallard family

Sign at the park.

At the park the trail ended and we turned right onto SE 3rd St and followed it a block to S Main Avenue where we turned left. After two blocks on Main we turned left onto SE 5th St and then took a right on a grassy track behind some buildings.
Eighth Street Dam from the grassy track.

We crossed the river on the 8th Street Dam where we finally saw an official trail map.

Until we saw this sign we’d been thinking that maybe the trail didn’t exist any longer. We were also questioning how the loop was supposed to get back across the river at the other end since the only bridge across the river there was Harbor Drive. Until seeing this we were thinking of turning around at the dam, but instead we decided that we’d do the loop with Heather getting a table at Nisa’s while I recrossed the river to retrieve the car.

With lunch calling, and our feet feeling a bit worn, we opted not to do the optional out-and-back B1 spur trail and continued on the loop past a gate.

On this side the trail was a nice grassy track following a dike which was far more pleasant than Main Avenue.

Not the clearest picture but I think this is a greater scaup based on the head shape. We’ve seen a number of lesser scaups, but this would be our first greater.

Great blue heron

Cormorant

A brief paved section.

Nisa’s Thai Kitchen across Harbor Drive.

There was a nice wide bike/pedestrian lane on the bridge making the crossing not too bad even with traffic. As I was made my way across I noticed a path leading down to the underpass on the south side of Harbor Drive which meant I wouldn’t need to cross the main street on foot.
Looking back up the path from Harbor Drive.

The loop came in just over 2-miles with minimal elevation gain.

This would probably be a nicer hike early in the morning when less traffic was about. It was a little awkward walking along the city streets as well, but the grassy dike was a comfortable walk. What really made this worth the stop though was the Drunken Noodles and Pad Thai. After a satisfying meal we drove to Astoria arriving at our motel right after check in time (3pm). We originally thought we might head out to the Astoria Riverwalk after cleaning up, but after showering a resting for a bit it was clear that 12.9 miles were enough for one day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crecent Beach, Fort Stevens Historic Area, and the Skipanon River Loop