wanderingyuncks

Sturgis Fork and Mount Elijah – 10/07/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date October 12, 2023
2 Comments on Sturgis Fork and Mount Elijah – 10/07/2023

For our final trip of 2023 we headed to Grants Pass to hopefully finish our quest to hike at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2 (post). We were down to six hikes which we were planning on doing over four days. The order of the hikes was a bit up in the air due to a forecasted shift in the weather in the middle of the four days from sunny and warm to rain.

Two of our planned hikes were located south of Applegate, OR off of Thompson Creek Road including the hike we had decided to begin the trip with to Grayback Mountain. The other hike, a combination of Sullivan’s Sturgis Fork and Mount Elijah hikes, we were planning on doing Monday in the rain. As we neared the turn to the O’Brien Lower Trailhead for Grayback Mountain we changed our minds and decided to swap the hikes. While both hikes involved viewpoints the hike from Sturgis Fork was longer, visited two peaks, and included a lake. So when we reached the end of pavement along Thompson Creek Road instead of taking sharp right onto Road 1005 we veered slightly right onto Road 1020 and followed it 7.5 miles to a fork with Road 600.

The Sturgis Trailhead is located 0.6-miles up Road 600 which was said to be a rough, rocky road suited more for 4wd vehicles. We opted to park at the fork and walk-up Road 600 instead of testing our luck.
Road 600 heading uphill.

We followed Road 600 uphill to the Sturgis Trailhead on the left just before crossing Sturgis Fork.

Crab spider on a fleabane.

The Sturgis Trailhead on the left.

The Sturgis Fork Trail begins at the trailhead and leads uphill 0.7-miles to the Boundary Trail #1207.

Trail map of the area.

For the hike Sullivan describes for Sturgis Fork we would turn right on the Boundary Trail and follow it approximately 1.7-miles to a viewpoint for a 4.8-mile (from the trailhead) out-and-back. He also mentions the possibility of combining the hike with several of his other featured hikes including Mount Elijah which was another featured hike we had yet to do. This combination would be somewhere between 12 and 13 miles with approximately 2500′ of cumulative elevation gain. We followed the Sturgis Fork Trail uphill through the forest to the Boundary Trail.

Nettle-leaf giant hyssop

The viewpoint we were headed to.

All that was left for signage at the Boundary Trail junction.

The Boundary Trail to the South toward Sucker Creek Gap (post).

We turned right onto the Boundary Trail which climbed gradually for 0.3-miles to another junction in a small meadow.

Coming from this direction all we noticed were a couple of signs on a tree and some pink flagging.

Trail signs for the Boundary Trail and Lake Mountain Trail #1206 to the Oregon Caves (post).

As long as the hike went as planned, we would be rejoining the Boundary Trail at this junction after having visited Mount Elijah. For now though we stuck to the Boundary Trail which soon entered a much larger meadow.

The trail became faint in the meadow, but the tread was clear enough that we were able to stick to it.
The trail can be seen in the lower right-hand corner.

Again the trail is in the lower right corner.

There was still a small amount of paintbrush in the meadow.

A clump of fireweed ahead that had gone to seed.

A small section of trees was located along this gully.

A little brushy here.

Ferns at the northern end of the meadows.

The double humps of the Red Buttes in the distance to the SE.

Preston Peak in the Siskiyou Wilderness (post) to the SW.

A little under a mile from the junction with Lake Mountain Trail we came to another junction at a pass.
Arriving at the pass.

This was the only signage that was visible at the junction.

The Boundary Trail continued NE along the ridge while somewhere (it wasn’t easily visible) the Elk Creek Trail dropped down from the ridge to a forest road on the northern side of the saddle and the Sparlin Tie Trail headed East on a traverse below Lake Mountain.
We could see tread heading East into the trees which was the Sparlin Tie Trail. The Elk Creek Trail wasn’t as obvious, but it dropped down to the right just a little way up the tread seen here.

Our plan was to take the Sparlin Tie Trail after visiting the viewpoint along the Boundary Trail so we continued climbing up the ridge.

Lake Mountain from the Boundary Trail.

Approximately 0.6-miles from the junction a short spur trail led to the rocky viewpoint.

There was a small geocache located at the viewpoint. Smoke from the still smoldering wildfires impacted the views a bit, Mt. Shasta is out there toward the right-hand side.

The outline of Mt. Shasta to the left of Red Buttes.

Preston Peak and other peaks in the Siskiyou Wilderness in the distance.

Closer look at the Siskiyou Wilderness peaks.

Grayback Mountain to the North. Mt. McLoughlin (post) is out there too but the haze made it really hard to see.

Mt. McLoughlin

After taking in the view we headed back to the saddle and continued straight onto the Sparlin Tie Trail.
The remains of a trail sign near the saddle.

The Sparlin Tie Trail straight ahead and the Elk Creek Trail heading off to the right.

Homemade? trail sign a short distance up the tie trail. (note Bigelow Lakes is spelled “Biglow”)

The advantage to taking the tie trail was two-fold. It both shortened the hike by 0.8-miles and it passed through the meadows above the Boundary Trail eliminating the need to make the 500′ climb that the Lake Mountain Trail would require. In Sullivan’s guidebook (edition 4.2) this trail is labeled as “unmaintained” but we found that it had indeed been maintained at some point in the not too distant past.

The tread was faint through the meadows but not any more difficult to follow than the Boundary Trail had been.

Cinquefoil

Coneflower and fireweed

Random sign along the trail.

Crossing through the final meadow.

Orange Sulphur butterfly

Just under a mile from the saddle we arrived at the Lake Mountain/Bigelow Lakes Trail #1214.
Arriving at the 1214 Trail.

We were now in the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve. We turned right onto this trail which provided views down to Bigelow Lakes as it descended to the meadows around the lakes.
There was actually more blowdown along this trail than there had been along the tie trail, but it was easily navigated.

Bigelow Lakes from the trail.

The trail eventually skirted the edge of the meadows where a use trail led 0.2-miles to the larger of the Bigelow Lakes.

The use trail to the lake.

Heather wasn’t feeling the best, so she skipped the use trail while I visited the lake shore.

While I was at the lake Heather was making friends with this tree frog.

After visiting the lake I returned to the 1214 Trail and continued downhill just over half a mile to a junction with an old roadbed where Heather was waiting for me. (We encountered the only other hikers we’d see all trip on the trails near the junction with the use trail.)
The old roadbed.

Trail sign at the roadbed.

We turned left on the roadbed and followed it nearly a mile to the Lake Mountain Trail.

This bunch of blowdown was just before the junction.

There were several of these stands along the Lake Mountain Trail, all of which were blank.

We turned left on the Lake Mountain Trail and began a 1.3-mile climb along a ridge to Mount Elijah.

The lower portion of the trail passed through a nice forest.

The trail passed below the 6294′ Mount Elijah (for some reason both peaks along the ridge are named Mount Elijah on some maps) before gaining the ridge crest and climbing to the higher Mount Elijah summit at 6381′.

The taller Mount Elijah.

Lake Mountain from Mount Elijah.

Preston Peak and a cloud from Mount Elijah. Wildfire smoke was a little more of an issue now.

Red Buttes in the distance.

The other Mount Elijah from Mount Elijah.

Phlox

We shared the summit with this little frog.

The trail passed directly over the summit then descended 0.3-miles to a junction with the Lake Mountain/Bigelow Lakes Trail #1214 where we turned right sticking to the Lake Mountain Trail #1206 and descending nearly a mile via switchbacks to the Boundary Trail.

The junction with the 1214 Trail. Another with missing signage.

This tree required a detour downhill to get around.

Looking down at the Lake Mountain Trail as it switchbacked downhill.

The trail was a bit brushy in spots.

Bigelow’s sneezeweed

Pink flagging in the little meadow where the trail met the Boundary Trail.

The Lake Mountain Trail junction with the Boundary Trail.

We turned right onto the Boundary Trail following it back 0.3-miles to the Sturgis Fork Trail then followed it back to the trailhead and made the road walk down to our car.
We packed out yet another mylar balloon (GRRRR).

Junction with the Sturgis Fork Trail on the left.

Hoary comma

We were parked just to the right along the road below the hill.

My GPS showed 12.5-miles with approximately 2500′ of cumulative elevation gain.

It was a beautiful day but also a tough day physically, especially with Heather not feeling well. We were glad however that we’d decided to do this hike on the clearer day. We drove back to Grants Pass and checked into our room for the next three nights. Two of the six remaining hikes were done with two more slated for the following day. We were getting real close to finishing but Heather’s health was a bit of a concern. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Sturgis Fork and Mount Elijah

Tags Bigelow Lakes, Boundary Trail, Elk Creek Trail, Grayback Mountain, hiking, Lake Mountain, Lake Mountain Trail, Lake Mountain/Bigelow Lakes Trail, Mount Elijah, Oregon, Oregon Caves National Monument, Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve, Sparlin Tie Trail, Sturgis Fork, Sturgis Fork Trail, Sturgis Trailhead

Central Coast Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Big Creek -Forest Park and Strom Boulder Ridge – 09/30/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date October 2, 2023
2 Comments on Big Creek -Forest Park and Strom Boulder Ridge – 09/30/2023

Our hike this week took second fiddle to our son’s birthday which we planned to celebrate by taking him out to lunch/dinner in Eugene. We still wanted to get a hike in that morning, so we looked for something in the general direction of Eugene. Our original plan had been to visit Vivian Lake near Diamond Peak, but a forecast of rain, followed by snow, then more rain had us look elsewhere. Looking at my list of future hikes a couple of hikes between Corvallis and Newport caught my eye. They were more or less on the way to Eugene and the weather forecast looked good. The two hikes had been Strom Boulder Ridge and Olalla Reservoir. Double checking the status of the hikes revealed that Georgia Pacific, who manages Olalla Reservoir, had closed access due to low water at the beginning of September so that hike was out. I then turned to the Oregon Hikers Field Guide to look for another short hike in the area and found the Big Creek-Forest Park Hike in Newport.

We began with the Big Creek hike parking at the Agate Beach State Recreation Site.

A trail begins near the restrooms at a footbridge over Big Creek.

Big Creek in the morning.

The trail follows Big Creek toward Highway 101 then recrosses it leading to a tunnel under the highway.
A short section of the trail was paved.

At the eastern end of the parking area we came to this new kiosk that is being installed marking the start of the Agate Beach TRACK Trail. There was also a path directly to the parking lot from the kiosk which we used upon our return.

The tunnel under Highway 101. The stairs at the far end lead up to a city street while the trail makes a hard right to briefly follow the highway back across Big Creek.

A series of boardwalks crosses the marshy bottomlands of Big Creek.

While the kiosk was a new work in process there were a number of older looking interpretive signposts. This was one of only a handful that still contained an interpretive sign.

The bottomlands.

There were no signs at junctions but for the TRACK Trail stick to the level fork and ignore anything going uphill.

Further along the trail Big Creek could actually be seen flowing.

A non-boardwalk section along Big Creek.

Approximately three quarters of a mile from the kiosk the trail arrived at Big Creek Road at another new signboard.

The signboard at Big Creek Road didn’t have any information on it yet.

We turned right on Big Creek Road passing a large overflow parking lot for Big Creek Park and Reservoir, crossed Big Creek, and then turned left into Big Creek Park.

Stellar’s Jay

Northern flickers on the picnic shelter.

A signboard near the picnic shelter marked the start of the Forest Park Trail.
Map on the signboard.

Don’t be fooled by the footbridge over Anderson Creek to the right of the signboard, the Forest Park Trail follows an old gravel roadbed steeply uphill to the left of the sign.
Anderson Creek, the footbridge, and signboard from the roadbed.

The Forest Park Trail

While the Track Trail had gained almost no elevation the Forest Park Trail climbed over 200′ in its first half mile to a pair of water towers.
A nice sitka spruce forest lined the old roadbed.

Mushrooms

Sunlight hitting the trees.

The Pacific Ocean through the trees near the water towers.

Passing the water towers.

Beyond the towers the trail dropped 160′ to wetlands along Jeffries Creek then climbed nearly another 90′ to a gate at the Fogarty Street Trailhead.

The drop to Jeffries Creek.

Jeffries Creek

Wood ducks in the wetlands.

The gate near Fogarty Street.

The Forest Park Trail from the other side of the gate.

We returned to the kiosk at the start of the TRACK Trail the way we’d come then cut to parking lot and returned to our car. The hike came to 4.0 miles with just over 550′ of elevation gain, nearly all of which was on the Forest Park Trail. The TRACK Trail seems like a good option for kids with the Forest Park Trail adding some short, steep climbs for those looking for more of a workout. The ability to visit Agate Beach from the parking lot is a huge bonus. We didn’t have time today to visit the beach but had in 2018 during our Yaquina Bay hike (post).

For our next stop at Strom Boulder Ridge we drove East on Highway 20 from Newport to Burnt Woods and turned right onto Harlan-Burnt Woods Road. We followed this road for 2 miles then turned right onto the unsigned gravel Burnt Woods Forest Road. I found this hike on Alltrails which I have somewhat reluctantly been looking at more frequently, mostly to check for recent trip reports but there are also some obscure “hikes” that don’t appear in any of our guidebooks or in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide. Strom Boulder Ridge is one such “hike” which is really just a 7.5-mile loop on drivable gravel logging roads on Oregon Department of Forestry managed lands. As such there is no official trailhead (although Google Maps seems think there is). The loop begins 0.7-miles up the forest road but we decided to park at a pullout next to a gravel pile halfway to the start of the loop.

Morning fog was still burning off at 9:30am.

One thing to note is that there isn’t any signage and because the area is actively logged roads may be added or closed depending on operations. I had downloaded the Alltrails track and we had our GPS units with us. Almost immediately we passed a logging road coming downhill on the left that was not shown on either the Alltrails or Garmin maps.
A car by the gravel pile to the left with the road coming down the hillside to the right. Interestingly Google Maps labels this as “Burnt Woods Ridge Road” which both Alltrails & Garmin showed as the left-hand fork where our loop would begin. (Google doesn’t show a road there at all but you can see the road in the trees by looking at the aerial view.) Numerous times throughout the hike we relied on comparing the Alltrails Track to the GPS map and our track to that point to determine where we were and which road(s) to take.

The trip reports on Alltrails had all mentioned how quite this hike was and it was (we saw no other hikers and only passed one pickup truck on the loop) other than the gunfire that we heard almost immediately and then off and on throughout the majority of the hike. We followed the road uphill to a saddle then dropped slightly to a fork marking the start of the loop.

There was some room to park here at the start of the loop (this is not where Google marks the TH) as well as many pullouts along the loop where one could choose to start.

We forked right following the suggested direction shown on the Alltrails track sticking to the Burnt Woods Forest Road. Over the next three and a half miles the road swung out and around several ridges in a series of ups and downs resulting losing a cumulative 580′ but regaining over 400′ along the way. As we descended we found ourselves back in the fog for a while before it finally burned off.

Heading down into the fog.

One positive to the fog is that it can create some dramatic Sun rays.

Vine maple

Blue sky in the upper left hand corner.

The road to the right is an example of a road that wasn’t labeled on any map we had.

Emerging from the fog.

Looking back through the fog to blue sky and the Sun.

The only other “hiker” we saw on the loop.

We couldn’t see it but just over three miles from the start of the loop the road crossed Cline Creek which was the first time we heard what sounded like a decent amount of flowing water.

A little over a tenth of a mile beyond Cline Creek we left Burnt Woods Forest Road and forked uphill to the left onto Cline Creek Road.

Cline Creek Road climbed gradually for approximately a half mile at which point it steepened and climbed for another mile to a junction with Burnt Ridge Road.
Arriving at a clearcut. Much of Cline Creek Road was along different clearcuts.

Mylitta crescent

Red-tailed hawk soaring over the clearcut.

Trying to get the red-tailed hawk in flight.

Lots of Fall colors starting to pop.

The first signs we’d seen (noticed anyway) were at the Cline Creek/Burnt Woods Ridge Road junction.

We turned onto Burnt Ridge Road and climbed some more gaining just over 150′ in the next 0.3-miles to the loop’s highpoint along the ridge (1558′). From there the road followed the ridge in a series of ups and downs for another mile and a half before making a sharp left and beginning a steeper descent back to the Burnt Woods Forest Road.

Arriving at the high point which was actually the first good viewpoint being above one of the clearcuts.

Looking North at more of the Coast Range.

Theoretically we should have been able to see both Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson from here but between haze from the fog and clouds we couldn’t make either out.

Mt. Jefferson is out there somewhere. The fact that the Cascades have some snow again doesn’t help them stand out in the haze and clouds.

Yet another unsigned road junction. Sticking to the ridge is the key.

After crossing a saddle we gained views SE to Mary’s Peak (post)

The tower and summit meadow of Mary’s Peak.

The hard left prior to the steep descent. The road on the far hillside in the clearcut is part of the road Google Maps has labeled as Burnt Ridge Road but doesn’t show on Alltrails or the Garmin maps.

We followed the ridge downhill for a little over a mile to complete the loop then followed the Burnt Woods Forest Road back to our car.

The end of the loop at the bottom of the hill.

Due to where we parked our hike came in at 8.5-miles with a little over 1200′ of cumulative elevation gain.

While it wasn’t the most exciting hike there was enough variety for it to be pleasant and aside from the gunfire it was quiet. It’s a decent option for a moderate workout, especially after rains when the road walk would be less wet/muddy than many trails. I would probably avoid weekdays if there is active logging occurring though. One other thing of note – Alltrails entry for the hike mentions the Siuslaw National Forest requiring a recreation pass but this is not National Forest land (and there is no developed trailhead) so no passes are currently needed.

After the hike we drove to Eugene and met Dominique at Ubon Thai for a late lunch/early dinner for his birthday. Good food and as someone who enjoys spicy foods, they didn’t disappoint with their heat scale. We followed the meal up with a slice of cake we’d brought down from Gerry Frank’s Konditorei. A great way to end a nice day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Big Creek-Forest Park and Strom Boulder Ridge

Tags Agate Beach State Recreation Site, Agate Beach TRACK Trail, Big Creek, Big Creek Park, Burnt Woods, Burnt Woods Forest Road, Burnt Woods Ridge Road, Cline Creek Road, Fogarty Street Trailhead, Forest Park, Forest Park Trail, hiking, Newport, Oregon, Oregon Coast, Strom Boulder Ridge

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Hood Area Oregon Trip report

Castle Canyon and Sandy River Park – 09/23/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 25, 2023
2 Comments on Castle Canyon and Sandy River Park – 09/23/2023

Some much-needed rain was forecast to arrive by Saturday afternoon. That combined with the presence of haze from the lingering wildfires had us looking for a shorter day that wasn’t focused on big views. We turned to a pair of hikes in the direction of Mt. Hood. (Originally the plan was for a third stop at Barlow Wayside Park, but it is currently closed due to the Camp Creek Fire.)

To start our day we drove to the West Zigzag Mountain Trailhead for the short, but steep, Castle Canyon Trail.
We’d parked here in 2020 when we hiked up to West Zigazag Mountian (post).

We could have parked at the Castle Canyon Trailehad but this trailhead was a bit closer and it allowed us to hike another portion of the Barlow Wagon Road.

We followed the Barlow Wagon Road Trail until we spotted a barricade. Just before the barricade we spotted a trail heading into the forest on our left.

The barricade ahead.

The trail before the barricade.

We mistakenly turned up this use trail which sported clear tread but also a good deal of blowdown.

This trail had seen maintenance at some point.

As we picked our way over and around the obstacles it became clear that we were not on the Castle Canyon Trail. A quick check of the GPS unit showed that we had turned off the Barlow Road too early. Luckily this trail crossed the Castle Canyon Trail after 0.2-miles.

There was no signage at the junction and the map on the GPS showed the Castle Canyon Trail further ahead, so we turned right on this new trail and followed it back 400′ to the Barlow Road where we confirmed that it was indeed the Castle Canyon Trail.
Trail sign along the road.

We turned around and headed up the Castle Canyon Trail arriving at signboard and wilderness registration box not far beyond the junction with the use trail.

Mt. Hood Wilderness map and information.

While the Castle Canyon Trail is only about a mile long it gains over 800′ most of it over the final three quarters of a mile.

Toward the end of the trail, we began to pass a series of volcanic rock formations.

The official trail ends at the top of a rock fin with a partially obstructed view called the Pinnacles Viewpoint.

Another use trail headed left (West) from the top of the fin passing through the forest for approximately 300′ to a second rock fin with a better view but unbeknownst to me it was home to some rather inhospitable yellow jackets.
The western fin.

Use trail along the western fin.

View up Castle Canyon.

Rock pillar across Castle Canyon.

Devil’s Peak (post) and Hunchback Mountain (post)

Looking down from the end of the rock fin.

Everything was fine while I was taking in the view but as I started back along the fin I felt a sharp prick on the back of my right hand. It took a moment to realize what had happened, but I quickly realized it was a ticked off yellow jacket. Given the terrain I was on I couldn’t move too quickly despite needing to get away from whatever nest was about. A second sting followed, this one on my calf and I was afraid one had gotten up may pant leg so I was now slapping my leg as I carefully (but quickly) retreated along the trail. By the time I’d made it back to the end of the official trail the pursuit seemed to have been abandoned and I took a moment to catch my breath.
Just after taking this picture on my way back I received my first sting.

I actually followed a use trail several yards above the end of the trail just to make sure I wasn’t being followed.

I could see Heather on the trail below so I made my way out onto the other fin which was yellow jacket free and waited for her to make her way up.

The trail on the other fin.

The Castle Canyon Trail below the rock fin.

After taking in the view from this fin we headed back down to the Barlow Wagon Road Trail and followed it back to our car.

One of two red-breasted sapsuckers on the tree.

The Castle Canyon Trail was approximately 0.2-miles East of the barricade that we’d seen from the use trail we turned up.

We liked the colors of this plant carpeting the ground along the road.

Back at the West Zigzag Trailhead.

From the trailhead we headed back to Highway 26 and followed it West into Sandy and made our way to the Sandy River Trailhead.
There isn’t much parking here but it is possible to park at nearby Sandy High School.

The Sandy River Trail follows an old roadbed downhill for a mile to the Sandy River in this undeveloped park. The Jim Slagle Loop Trail allows for an optional loop.
The upper junction with the loop trail was just 0.2-miles from the trailhead.

We stuck to the Sandy River Trail on the way down.

The Sandy River Midway Trail on the left was about 0.4 of a mile from the upper junction making a shorter loop (or figure 8) possible.

The lower junction with the Jim Slagle Trail was 0.6-miles from the upper junction.

Approximately 500′ from the lower junction we came to a trail pointer for a viewpoint.

We figured why not and followed the short path to the left to a rather obstructed view of the Sandy River.
The river is behind the trees at the top while the Sandy River Trail is clearly visible below.

After the short detour we continued down to the river where trails went in either direction. There were numerous use trails down to the riverbank, all of which were occupied by fishermen.

Since there was no open space along the river we quickly turned around and started back up to the loop trail where we turned right.

This trail climbed through the forest for almost a mile to the upper junction. The forest was nice and we spotted a large frog along the way.

From the upper junction it was just a short climb back to the trailhead.

The two hikes combined were a just under 7-miles (4.3 & 2.5 respectively). Perhaps not the most exciting trails we’ve hiked. The scenery was nice and they had enough to offer for their lengths.
Castle Canyon

Sandy River Park

I could have done without the stings, but it was a nice outing on a day when rain would finally be arriving. Hopefully it extends into Northern California to help with some of the fires down there. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Castle Canyon & Sandy River Park

Tags Castle Canyon, Castle Canyon Trail, Castle Canyon Trailhead, hiking, Jim Slagle Loop Trail, Oregon, rhododendron, Sandy, sandy river, Sandy River Park, Sandy River Trail, West Zigzag Mountain Trailhead

Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Trip report

Mt. Hebo Traverse – 09/19/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 21, 2023
1 Comment on Mt. Hebo Traverse – 09/19/2023

At the start of the year I scheduled a week of vacation in September just in case our August backpacking trip to the Wallowa Mountains didn’t work out. That vacation worked out so I had a free week while Heather needed to work. When that happens I tend to look for longer hikes in areas where we’ve already been together.

For this outing I chose Mt. Hebo planning to hike up and over from Hebo Lake to South Lake and back. We’d been to Mt. Hebo twice before, most recently in 2015 (post), but never to the actual summit or as far as North & South Lakes. I parked at the Hebo Lake Day Use Area and walked through the campground to the signboard at the start of the Pioneer-Indian Trail.

Hebo Lake

From the trailhead it’s four miles and approximately 1500′ to the meadowed plateau of Mt. Hebo. The lower portion of the trail includes several interpretive signs.
Despite it being the end of Summer the forest was a lush green.

So much green.

The trail crosses several roads along the way and near the one mile mark an equestrian trail joins from the left. All crossing and junctions were well signed.
Trail sign at the equestrian junction.

The equestrian trail. In 2015 we made the mistake of turning onto it briefly.

Love the mossy trees.

One of the numerous trail signs.

This more recently thinned section was full of ripe red huckleberries.

Trail snacks.

Chestnut-backed chickadee

Crossing Road 14 near the 3-mile mark.

There was a small section where there had been a lot of blowdown that had been removed.

Arriving at the meadows.

Looking NW toward the Pacific Ocean.

Mt. Hebo summit from the meadows.

Bayocean Spit (post) and Tillamook Bay.

Cape Lookout (post)

Looking back across one of the meadows.

At the 4.4-mile mark the trail crossed Road 14 again and traversed a hillside above several tributaries of Three Rivers.

This late in the Summer there was no water.

Dry marsh at the tributaries.

Bunchberry

Another dry crossing.

The trail made another crossing of Road 14 just 0.4-miles later then rounded a wide ridge. Near the 5.5-mile mark I reached the start of the steep descent to North and South Lakes where we had turned around in 2015. This time I continued on.

After descending three quarters of a mile North Lake became visible through the trees, or I should say the dry lakebed of North Lake became visible.

The trail stayed above the lakebed and forked. The right hand fork led to Road 14 along the lake shore while the Pioneer-Indian Trail continued to the left.
This was the only official junction that was not signed.

With no water in North Lake I stuck to the Pioneer-Indian Trail and hoped that South Lake wouldn’t be the same. After an initial climb over a ridge the trail gradually descended arriving at South Lake 1.3-miles from North Lake.

Road 14 – again.

South Lake through the trees.

There was water in this lake (and one car in the campground), so I followed the half mile trail around the lake.

Vine maple changing colors.

The trail around South Lake.

After completing the loop I headed back along the Pioneer-Indian Trail.
I really appreciated being reminded that it was eight miles back to Hebo Lake.

I returned past North Lake and began the 600′ plus climb that needed to be made to get back up to the plateau.
I couldn’t really get a good view but there was a nice meadow along the trail between the two lakes.

Oregon grape

Bridge over Three Rivers near North Lake, I almost thought I heard a slight trickle of water here.

Good sized garter snake in the trail ahead.

Normally these snakes slither off into the brush as you approach but this one coiled up in the trail, so I took a long step over it and continued on.

This was the steepest section of the climb up from North Lake.

On the way down I’d spotted two separate flagged trails along the ridge end that appeared to lead up to the plateau. There were no signs but a quick look at the GPS and maps showed a road on the plateau that connected with Road 14. I thought it might be a little shorter to go that way, or at least it might mean a little less climbing because the trail dipped as it passed the dry streams feeding Three Rivers.
One of the flagged routes.

Looking up the flagged route.

I turned up the first of the routes that I came to and climbed steeply to the plateau where the tread quickly petered out.

Remains of some sort of old structure were present. The summit of Mt. Hebo could also be seen.

Turkey vulture

A lone lupine.

I could see the old roadbeds though so I followed the closest thing I could find to old tread to the first roadbed and turned left onto it.

Mountain ash and maple.

A small bird watching me from behind some sticks.

Approximately a third of a mile from the Pioneer-Indian Trail I reached a gate at the end of pavement and in another tenth found myself on Road 14.

I had a choice of turning left or staying straight on Road 14. It would have been about 0.4-miles back to the trail along the left fork, but the map showed Road 14 curved a couple of times while staying straight appeared more direct.
Going the left would have also been the way to North Lake. The road apparently gets narrow and a bit rough beyond this point.

I went straight and followed Road 14 nearly 0.7-miles before arriving at a trail crossing.

I turned right at the trail marker here. As it turned out it wasn’t any shorter at all and I wouldn’t recommend this route due to a lack of tread between the flagged trail and old roadbed and then having to follow Road 14 for so long.

I followed the Pioneer-Indian Trail back through the meadows then, after almost a mile, when it neared Road 14 again I took a short path over to the road to detour up to the summit.

A hedgenettle

I took this left to cut over to Road 14.

I followed Road 14 uphill for half a mile then turned right to visit the former site of an Air Force Radar station (now radio and other towers).

A path near an interpretive sign led out to the former radar site and a view of the Pacific.

Lots of yarrow still blooming at the summit.

White-crowned sparrow

Heading toward the viewpoint.

Three Arch Rocks

Haystack Rock near Pacific City.

Closer look at Haystack Rock.

Penstemon

Meadows along the plateau of Mt. Hebo from the summit.

I returned to Road 14 and followed it back down to the Pioneer-Indian Trail and headed back to Hebo Lake. It was nearly 3.5 more miles to the lake but luckily it almost entirely downhill and it had stayed relatively cool. I did stop for a moment to talk to three hikers from Corvallis who had originally headed East that morning but realized it was too smokey to be enjoyable, so they’d come West instead.

Bead lily (Queen’s cup).

Meadow along the trail.

So many ferns.

Mushrooms

This was a good-sized mushroom.

Back at Hebo Lake.

To wrap up the outing I took the Hebo Lake Trail around the lake and back to the car.

The hike came in at 17.7 miles with a little over 3200′ of cumulative elevation gain.

The highlight of this hike was the coastal forest. The views were nice, and the lakes were fine, but the green forest stole the show. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mt. Hebo Traverse

Tags hebo lake, Hebo Lake Trail, hiking, Mt. Hebo, Mt. Hebo Summit, North Lake, Oregon, Oregon Coast, Pioneer-Indian Trail, Road 14, South Lake

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Jefferson Area Oregon Trip report

Sisi Butte and Fish & Si Lakes – 09/16/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 18, 2023
1 Comment on Sisi Butte and Fish & Si Lakes – 09/16/2023

While we are focused on our quest to complete Sullivan’s featured hikes (post) we are also plugging away at several other guidebooks including Matt Reeder’s 2016 “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region”. It’s been a bit of a challenge to make much progress in this book since 2020 when wildfires burned much of the area it covers. In some cases the trails were burned and in others the access roads to the trailheads were closed for hazardous tree removal. The two stops we had planned for this outing were two such hikes.

Our first stop was to visit the viewpoint and lookout tower on Sisi Butte. The fires didn’t burn the butte, but until Forest Road 46 was reopened between Detroit and Estacada this past June it wasn’t accessible for us to reach the trailhead.

Our adventure actually began before reaching the trailhead. Over the final two miles of our drive we passed at least two dozen cars heading toward Olallie Lake (post). We guessed that there must be some sort of race happening which turned out to be correct, the 100-mile Mountain Lakes 100 to be exact. Luckily the racecourse wasn’t along either of the hikes we’d planned for the day, we’ve made that mistake before and it doesn’t make for the most enjoyable hike. (Someday I’ll learn to check for races/events at the same time I’m checking the managing agencies information on the trail conditions.) We eventually made it to the gated road and parked along the side of FR 4220 (Old Skyline Road).

This was about as straightforward as a hike can get. We followed the closed road up Sisi Butte for just under three miles to the lookout tower. There was a lock on the door to the observation deck, but we were able to climb up to that point to get views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack.
Dust from ultra runner’s cars hanging over the closed roadbed.

Mt. Jefferson in the monring.

The Summer haze we’ve grown to expect was back after having improved following a brief period of rain.

The smoke does make for some colorful sunrises though.

Scouler’s bluebells

There was a nice forest along the road. Much of the butte is within one of the five tracts making up the Clackamas Wilderness but being a man-made improvement the road itself is not part of the Sisi Butte tract.

Mt. Hood to the North.

Mt. Hood

Despite the surrounding haze the sky above the road was bright blue.

There were numerous good views of Mt. Jefferson from the road.

Olallie Butte (post) and Mt. Jefferson.

About 0.4 miles from the lookout an abandoned spur road splits off to the right toward the eastern summit which is just a couple of feet higher than the western.

The tower is still staffed at times, but it was empty today.

Penstemon

Olallie Butte, Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack from the lookout.

Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

Mt. Hood, West Pinhead Butte, and the eastern summit.

A hazy Mt. Hood.

Flat topped Battle Ax Mountain (post), Silver King Mountain (post), Pansy Mountain, Bull-of-the Woods (post), Big Slide Mountain (post), and Schreiner Peak in the Bull-of-the Wilderness.

Bachelor and Coffin Mountains (post) in the Old Cascades.

After taking in the views we headed back down. We’d passed a pair of hunters on the way up and a pair of hikers on the way back down along with a few grouse.
Grouse along the road.

Despite high temperatures around 80 the leaves reminded us that Fall would be arriving soon.

Canada jay checking us out.

The out-and-back was just shy of 6-miles with approximately 1400′ of elevation gain.

From the gated road we turned around and headed South on FR 4220 for a total of 6.5-miles to the Lower Lake Campground entrance.

While Sisi Butte had escaped the 2020 wildfires the Lionshead Fire had severely damaged the campground and the trail to Fish Lake.
Lower Lake Campground, a work in progress.

While the campground was closed, the trail was open despite the fire damage.

The Fish Lake Trail at Lower Lake Campground.

While the sign at the trailhead said it was a half mile to Lower Lake we actually arrived at the eastern end of the lake after a third of a mile.
Ferns creating a green hillside in the burn scar.

Lower Lake

The trail passed along the northern shore of Lower Lake without too much trouble. There was on small detour necessary to avoid some blowdown, but it was easily navigated.
The water in Lower Lake was quite colorful.

Duck

Most of the lakes in the Olallie Lake Scenic Area have signs naming them.

Potato Butte (post) from Lower Lake.

Olallie Butte

We had detoured to Lower Lake prior to the fire during our Lodgepole Loop hike in 2019 (post).

Just a short distance from the western end of the lake we crossed the Lodgepole Trail.

For the next quarter of a mile the trail was fairly level.
Sisi Butte off to the right.

Fireweed going to seed.

Buckwheat

The burn was intense along the trail, but it was in pretty good shape all things considered.

After a quarter mile the trail arrived at a cliff above Fish Lake and then began a steep descent dropping 400′ over the next half mile to the lake.
Sisi Butte and Fish Lake from the cliff.

Mt. Hood peeking out from behind West Pinhead Butte.

Mt. Hood

The Fish Lake Trail switchbacked a few times before giving up on that and dropping steeply for the final 0.2 miles.

A beat up Lorquin’s admiral.

There were signs of somewhat recent trail maintenance, but given the severity of the burn and the steepness of the hillside the trail is going to need a lot of ongoing attention to keep it passable.

The trail disappeared a couple of times in brush and blowdown near the lake, but it was never hard to pick back up.

There were no people at the lake, just a pair of ducks enjoying the warm day.

Nap time.

Olallie Butte from Fish Lake.

After passing around the southern side of the lake we arrived at a nice campsite under some unburned trees.

Beyond Fish Lake the forest along the trail was mostly out of the fire scar.
The trail followed along Squirrel Creek (currently dry) for 0.4-miles.

Just under a quarter of a mile from Fish Lake the trail crossing a road and under some power lines.

Four tenths of a mile from Fish Lake we came to a trail sign with a pointer to Surprise Lake.
We passed a few of these “Spot Fire” flags, presumably left over from 2020.

The signed junction.

We detoured to check out the brushy lake and found it to be as Reeder reported, brushy had difficult to explore.

I had to walk out on a log and fight through some thick brush to reach a decent view of the water.

Surprise Lake

We returned to the Fish Lake Trail and continued another half mile to Si Lake.
The trail between the junction and Si Lake got a little brushy.

Huckleberry leaves in their Fall colors.

Si Lake from the trail.

Si Lake.

Tortoiseshell butterfly

Si Lake was the smallest of the three lakes along the Fish Lake Trail (not counting Surprise Lake) and lacked a view of any of the surrounding peaks. The day was heating up quickly and we had a nearly 900′ climb over the three miles back to the car, so we took a short break and headed back.

A few clouds formed overhead and a slight breeze kicked up during our return which fortunately kept if from feeling too hot.
Olallie Butte from Fish Lake.

Black bear print along the shore of Fish Lake.

White breasted nuthatch

Lower Lake from the Fish Lake Trail.

Olallie Butte from Lower Lake.

While parts of Lower Lake are shallow it actually reaches a depth of 73′ which is the reason it is so colorful.

Arriving back at Lower Lake Campground.

This hike came in just over 6-miles and 900′ of elevation gain making this a 12-mile, 2300′ elevation gain day.

The hikes were enjoyable and offered a lot of solitude, we only saw three people (all at Lower Lake) along the Fish Lake Trail in addition to the four at Sisi Butte. Cooler temperatures and less smoke would have been preferred but it was a great outing none the less. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Sisi Butte and Fish & Si Lakes

Tags Clackamas Wilderness, Fish Lake, Fish Lake Trail, hiking, Lower Lake, Lower Lake Campground, Olallie Butte, Olallie Lake scenic area, Oregon, Si Lake, Sisi Butte, Sisi Butte Lookout, Surprise Lake

High Cascades Hiking Oregon Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trip report

Seven Lakes Basin Backpack – 09/09/23 & 09/10/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 13, 2023
2 Comments on Seven Lakes Basin Backpack – 09/09/23 & 09/10/2023

As we near our goal of finishing at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivans “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2 (post) there was one backpacking trip left. Sullivan’s Seven Lakes West and Seven Lakes East (hikes 38 & 39 in edition 4.2) start at trailheads on opposite side of the Cascade Crest but both contain a loop through the Seven Lakes Basin and a climb up Devil’s Peak in the Sky Lakes Wilderness. Aside from the different trailheads the only other difference is that he includes a visit to Lake Alta from the west trailhead.

We opted to begin from the eastern trailhead – Sevenmile Marsh. The primary reason for this was the trailhead is roughly half an hour closer to Salem but the Forest Service currently shows the status of the western trailhead (Seven Lakes) as unreachable. (This may simply be an oversight when updating their webpages, but it is a good reminder that it’s always a good idea to double check with the managing agencies before heading out.)
Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead

The trail descended to a crossing of Sevenmile Creek then climbed gradually along a hillside above Sevenmile Marsh, entering the Sky Lakes Wilderness along the way.

Sevenmile Creek

Entering the wilderness

Sevenmile Marsh

The Sevenmile Trail climbed gradually through a nice forest for nearly two miles before joining the Pacific Crest Trail.
Lodgepole pines were the dominate trees along the first part of the trail.

Mountain hemlock took over as the trail gained elevation.

Junction with the PCT.

We turned left onto the PCT and found ourselves losing a bit of elevation before beginning another gradual climb.

There were a few downed trees along this section but nothing difficult to get around.

This twisted tree caught our attention.

Nice blue sky.

Lewis’s woodpecker way up in a snag.

After two miles on the PCT we arrived at Honeymoon Creek which resembled a small pond. Tadpoles splashed around in the mud while larger frogs hung out around the water.

Tadpoles

Frog in the water.

After another 0.6-miles on the PCT we arrived at a signed junction with the Seven Lakes Trail.
Trail sign ahead on the right.

Our plan was to set up camp at Cliff Lake then do the loop and summit Devil’s Peak as described by Sullivan. We could have turned right here and followed the Seven Lakes Trail 1.3-miles past Grass and Middle Lakes to Cliff Lake, but sticking to the PCT for another 0.7-miles then turning the Cliff Lake Trail would save us nearly a quarter of a mile. We decided to save Middle and Grass Lakes for our hike out the following morning and stayed straight on the PCT.

Unnamed creek along the PCT. We were surprised at how many of the seasonal creeks still had flowing water.

Grass-of-parnassus

Huckleberries, there were a lot of these around the basin which we happily sampled.

Devil’s Peak poking up above the trees.

The Cliff Lake Trail.

We turned right onto the Cliff Lake Trail and descended a third of a mile to rejoin the Seven Lakes Trail a tenth of a mile from Cliff Lake.

Prince’s pine

Another flowing seasonal creek.

Crater Lake collomia (Collomia mazama)

The Seven Lakes Trail arriving on the right.

Cliff Lake

At Cliff Lake we turned onto a use trail following it around the eastern side of the lake in search of a suitable campsite. While there were numerous sites most of the sites we were seeing were large enough for multiple tents. We didn’t want to take up one of the large sites with our single tent and we also didn’t want to wind up with neighbors if we could avoid it. We wound up getting separated in the process and after walking back and forth for a bit we found each other and settled on a campsite.

Arnica

Aster

Splash in Cliff Lake from one of many fish that were feeding on insects.

Camp

After getting set up we grabbed our daypacks and headed back to the Seven Lakes Trail. We decided to hike the loop clockwise which meant backtracking along the Seven Lakes and Cliff Lake Trails to the PCT and then turning right to continue southward.
Huckleberry bushes along the Cliff Lake Trail.

Anywhere there was water nearby there were lots of tiny Cascade toads to watch out for.

Back at the PCT.

Larger frog

Monkshood

More grass-of-parnassus

Not only were the toads tiny, they also were well camouflaged.

The PCT climbed steadily providing the first glimpses of the peaks around Crater Lake.
Mount Scott (post) between the trees.

Mount Scott

The Watchman (post) and Hillman Peak (post)

The Watchman and Hillman Peak

Devil’s Peak

Union Peak (post) in the distance.

Cliff Lake with Violet Hill beyond.

Black backed woodpecker

Getting closer to Devil’s Peak.

A much bigger Cascade toad.

Near Devil’s Peak the PCT left the trees and switchbacked up a talus field resulting on great view to the north toward Crater Lake and beyond.

Mt. Thielsen (post) in the center beyond the rim of Crater Lake.

Union Peak with Mt. Bailey (post) behind to the right.

Lots of neat rock formation on Devil’s Peak.

Western pasque flower seed heads.

Buckwheat

Two and a half miles from the Seven Lakes Trail junction the PCT arrived at a pass. The final climb was fairly steep even with switchbacks, so a brief rest was in order at the pass.

Views to the South opened up at the pass including Klamath Lake and Pelican Butte.

Klamath Lake

Devil’s Peak and the PCT coming up to the pass from the North.

Klamath Lake, Pelican Butte, Aspen Butte (post) over the right shoulder of Pelican, Brown Mountain (post) is the small cone on the right, and Mt. McLoughlin (post)

Mt. McLoughlin

A faint Mt. Shasta which, given the wildfires burning in NW California was a bit of a surprise to be able to see.

The view North.

Goose Egg and Ethel Mountain in the forefront with Llao Rock, Mt. Thielsen, and Garfield Peak (post) behind.

Devil’s Peak

While we were resting at the pass we heard a helicopter approaching from the NW. It wound up hovering low above the lakes basin before heading back the way it came.
We were a little concerned at first that it might be picking up water for a new fire but there wasn’t anything hanging from the helicopter so we have no idea what it was actually doing.

A path headed uphill from the pass toward Devil’s Peak while the PCT headed slightly downhill.
The use path to Devil’s Peak on the right and the PCT on the left.

We headed up the use trail which was fairly easy to follow with just one slightly sketchy narrow spot.

The rather ominously named Lucifer from the use trail.

A second use trail coming up from the opposite side.

Western pasque flowers on the hillside above the use trails.

The summit of Devil’s Peak ahead.

The views were excellent from the summit so we took another nice break to soak them in before heading down.
Looking North toward Crater Lake and Mt. Thielsen

Lucifer, Jupiter, and Venus

Lee Peak above the pass.

Luther Mountain (post) in the foreground with Aspen Butte, Brown Mountain and Mt. McLoughlin.

Remains of a former lookout.

The PCT below Devil’s and Lee Peaks.

Goose Egg, Llao Rock, and Mt. Thielsen

Mt. Scott

Mt. Shasta to South through a little smoke but again we felt fortunate to be able to see the mountain at all.

Colorful grasshopper at the summit.

American pipit

We headed down taking the other use trail which angled down along a ridge to the PCT approximately a third of a mile from where we had left it to climb Devil’s Peak.
The Seven Lakes Basin from the use trail down.

South, Middle, North, and Grass Lakes

Heading down the use trail.

Looking back up the use trail.

When we reached the PCT we turned right and headed toward Lucifer.

Western snakeroot along the PCT.

A comma butterfly on western snakeroot.

Painted lady

At a ridge below Lucifer we arrived at a signed trail junction.

Here the PCT forked left toward Luther Mountain while the Devil’s Peak Trail forked right. We took the Devil’s Peak Trail and followed it 1.3-miles to the Seven Lakes Trail. Passing below Jupiter and Venus along the way.
Venus from the Devil’s Peak Trail.

Looking back at Devil’s Peak.

Looking North across the Seven Lakes Basin.

Lake Alta in a bowl below Violet Hill.

Pond along the Devil’s Peak Trail.

Coming up to the Seven Lakes Trail junction. A rock cairn was the only marker.

We turned right onto the Seven Lakes Trail and descended 0.2 miles to a signed junction with the Alta Lake Trail.

We turned left onto the Alta Lake Trail. We followed this trail for a fairly level half mile to the long lake.

Heather took another break at the South end of the lake while I hiked another quarter mile along the lake to get a better look at the northern end.
I was still only about halfway along the lake after the quarter mile. There used to be a campground at the North end.

Common merganser

The southern end of Lake Alta.

On the way back to Heather I detoured to take in the view from the cliffs above the basin.
Cliff Lake below Devil’s Peak and Middle Lake.

Middle and Grass Lakes

I could hear several pikas in the rocks below the cliffs but the only thing I spotted was a chipmunk.

Chipmunk

After rejoining Heather we headed back to the Seven Lakes Trail and continued descending into the basin.
Sulphur butterfly on aster.

Gentian

Fireweed

A mile from the Alta Lake Trail we arrived at South Lake.

South Lake

Another quarter mile brought us to a view of Cliff Lake.

Devil’s Peak from the trail. There were more pikas “meeping” from the rocks here but again we failed to spot any of them.

We followed the trail around to the North side of Cliff Lake and then turned on the use trail to return to our campsite.

Back at camp we refilled our water supply and had dinner then relaxed a bit before turning in for the night. For me this had been a 15.3-mile hike with 2000′ of elevation gain. One and a quarter of those miles was hiking from the Seven Lakes Trail to our camp, and initially wandering around looking for a site and Heather.
Devil’s Peak in the evening.

So many fish in the evening.

In the morning we packed up and headed back, this time sticking to the Seven Lakes Trail to visit Middle and Grass Lakes.

Devil’s Peak in the morning.

Seven Lakes and Cliff Lake Trail junction.

We reached Middle Lake in 0.4-miles.

We detoured left at the northern end of the lake following a pointer for Lake Ivern to find a view back across Middle Lake.

Devil’s Peak from Middle Lake.

We returned to the Seven Lakes Trail and in another half mile we passed views of Grass Lake.
Stream crossing.

Monkshood and grass-of-parnassus

Grass Lake

We didn’t follow any of the use trails down to Grass Lake and instead stuck to the Seven Lakes Trail as it climbed for 0.2 miles to the Pacific Crest Trail.

Arriving at the PCT.

We turned left onto the PCT and returned to the Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead the way we’d come the day before. Of note were the ducks making use of the small pond along Honeymoon Creek.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel

Sevenmile Trail at the PCT to return to the Sevenmile Marsh Trailhead.

Exiting the Sky Lakes Wilderness.

The hike out came to 6.1-miles with just 200′ of elevation gain.

The red section marks our track out past Middle and Grass Lakes

This was a great trip. The temperatures were pleasant, the views great, lots of huckleberries and only a few mosquitos. We also only saw a total of eight other people all weekend. We are now down to a half dozen featured hikes from the Southern Oregon/Northern California book and if conditions cooperate we may well be finished by November. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Seven Lakes Basin

Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Fryrear Canyon – 09/04/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 8, 2023
No Comments on Fryrear Canyon – 09/04/2023

To finish off our Labor Day Weekend we chose a hike almost halfway between Burns and Salem, Fryrear Canyon. Managed by the BLM (Prineville District) as part of the Cline Buttes Recreation Area there isn’t a lot of information available online that I could find outside of an area closure map for nesting birds from February 1st through August 31st. (Please note that the trails shown on the linked map are a little bit different than what we found.)

The Fryrear Trailhead is located along Fryrear Road which runs between Highways 20 and 126. From Highway 20 the trailhead is on the right after 2.3 miles and from Highway 126 it is on the left after 3.2 miles.
The trailhead has numerous parking spots for cars as well as a large horse trailhead, outhouse, and picnic tables.

The big signboards unfortunately did not have a map or other information about the trail system though.

We headed East past a gate on a well established path with flagging.

The North Sister behind us.

After a third of a mile we came to an unsigned “T” junction where we turned right.

We followed the path and flagging when there were forks for half a mile to the start of Fryrear Canyon.

Signpost for the canyon ahead.

This sign was just like the ones we’d seen Saturday at the Dry River Canyon (post).

We descended into the canyon and spent the next mile admiring the rock formations and various vegetation growing along the canyon floor.

The canyon is home to some impressive ponderosa pines.

Another ponderosa

Looking up from below the ponderosa.

Lichens

Townsend’s solitaire

Owl

West wall

East wall

Wren

Neat rock formation.

Exiting Fryrear Canyon.

A short distance after leaving the canyon we arrived at a gate with a trail junction on the other side.

Several mountain chickadees came to investigate as we passed through the gate.

We turned left at the unsigned junction and climbed up a small hill gaining a view of the Three Sisters.

Middle and North Sister

Mountain bluebird

South Sister

A little further along we gained a view of Mt. Jefferson (behind a few clouds).

Mt. Jefferson

We stayed left at junctions to complete a loop.
Broken Top and South Sister

Broken Top behind some clouds.

We turned right back onto the spur trail to the Fryrear Trailhead at the end of our loop.

Stellars jay

The hike was 3.3-miles with 200′ of elevation gain.

We had a great time on this hike. Fryrear Canyon was absolutely wonderful. The rock formations and textures were very interesting and so was the vegetation along the canyon floor. Throw in some wildlife and mountain views and you have the makings of a great hike. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Fryrear Canyon

Tags Bend, Central Oregon, Cline Buttes Recreation Area, Fryrear Canyon, Fryrear Trailhead, hiking, Oregon

Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Steens Mountain Trip report

Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge – 09/03/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 7, 2023
1 Comment on Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge – 09/03/2023

After spending the night in Burns it was time for the featured hike that had brought us here. Threemile Canyon was a recent edition as a featured hike after switching editions on our quest to finish the 100 featured hikes in each of William L. Sullivans guidebooks (post). We got a little later start than typical for us opting to stick around long enough to take advantage of the 6am full breakfast at our motel. After eating we made the hour and a half drive South on Highway 205 (County Road 202) to the Threemile Creek Trailhead.

We’d driven through a couple of rain showers but we had a bit of blue sky overhead at the trailhead (for now).
Beatys Butte to the SW.

Rain to the SW as well.

We followed the Threemile Creek Trail into the Steens Mountain Wilderness and Threemile Canyon.

Earlier rains had left the vegetation that crowded the trail rather damp which quickly left our pant legs wet.

Threemile Creek could be heard but not seen through the thick brush.

Lupine

At the 3/4-mile mark we arrived at a junction with Huffman Trail.
There was a post but no sign at the junction.

Our plan was to take the Huffman Trail uphill to its end on a plateau. If the weather was decent we would then take the Threemile Creek Trail further up Threemile Canyon before returning to the car. We turned left at the junction and began a steep climb, nearly 1100′ in 1.7-miles.

Wickerstem buckwheat

The Pueblo Mountains (post) in the distance including the domed Pueblo Mountain.

Clouds and rain showers to the SW.

Threemile Canyon

The faint Huffman Trail.

Alvord Peak in the center distance with Pueblo Mountain to the far right.

Closer look at Alvord Peak in the center.

Still a little blue sky to the NW.

Not sure where the fog below came from but it was on a mission to beat us up to the plateau.

Here comes the fog and some rain.

Just moments later.

And here is the fog.

We put our rain covers on at a switchback and continued uphill with a light rain falling through the fog.

The fog had moved on by the time we arrived at the plateau, but the rain lingered.

The final pitch to the plateau.

Cairn at the end of the trail.

Exploring is possible as long as you remember where you came up.

Looking West.

Looking toward Threemile Canyon.

The rain let up around the time we started back down and the clouds soon began to break up.

Beatys Butte at center with the long fault block of Hart Mountain (post) to the right partly behind the clouds.

This frog seemed to enjoy the damp weather.

Cliffs across Threemile Canyon

Arriving back at the junction with the Threemile Creek Trail.

With the weather improving and the Threemile Creek Trail continuing less than a mile beyond the junction we decided to give it a go. Heather told me to go on ahead and to turn around when I was ready and she would just turn around when she felt like it or we met up again. The Huffman Trail had been faint in places and a bit rough, but the remainder of the Threemile Trail took these to a different level.
It started out nicely passing a hillside covered in sunflowers, a few aster, and some curlycup gumweed.

Curlycup gumweed

The trail crossed and at times used dry creek beds and also crossed Threemile Creek several times.

The easiest crossing of Threemile Creek. Several of the others were not obvious until I pushed through the brush and then the footing was often tricky due to large, slick rocks needing to be navigated (at least in order to stay out of the creek).

On the trail, I think.

Elderberry

Hard to tell by the photo but this puffball was a little bigger than a softball.

The trail was described as ending in a meadow just under a mile from the junction with the Huffman Trail. I lost the trail at what appeared to be a post, but it also may just have been a snag.
I wouldn’t really describe the area as a meadow but I was 0.9 miles from the junction.

Since I was uncertain if this was the “meadow” I scrambled over a few rocks looking to see if I could find a continuation of the trail. I couldn’t but I did spot a lone red paintbrush.

Looking down at the meadow and post/snag (lower right) from the rocks.

I turned around here and headed back. I met Heather on the far side of the first really tricky creek crossing where she had decided to stop. We hiked out together as the clouds continued to break up overhead.
Sometimes the trail was really only identifiable by which junipers had had limbs cut.

The drop to the creek here was approximately 2′ and the pool in Threemile Creek was fairly deep making this crossing a bit of a challenge not to slip and fall in.

Aster

Sullivan’s map showed a “Bart Simpson Rock” which we believe was this one.

Nearing the sunflower hillside and trail junction.

Dragonfly

Skipper

Big bumblebee

On our way out of the canyon we spotted some horses on the hillside to the south. We don’t know if these were part of the South Steens HMA herd or if they belonged to the ranch but they were pretty.

The hike to the ends of both trails came to 6.7 miles with approximately 1900′ of elevation gain.

With our featured hike complete we headed back for Burns. It was just after 12:30pm so we had plenty of day left and couldn’t pass up the chance to once again drive the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge’s auto tour route. We’d last driven the route in 2021 (post) and both times we’d visited we’d seen abundant wildlife. In addition to the auto tour there are numerous short trails and hiking opportunities along the way. We hiked several of the trails before but had yet to visit the historic P Ranch near Frenchglen or Krumbo Reservoir which is just under 4 miles from the auto tour route.

Just before reaching Frenchglen we turned off Highway 205 onto Steens Mountain Loop Road and followed it 1.5 miles to Central Patrol Road where we turned left. A third of a mile later we turned left again into the P Ranch and in a large gravel parking area.

We hadn’t seen anyone else all day until now. A couple was just returning from the River Trail. Amazingly Heather knew them so we had a nice chat before we set off on the same trail. They also let us know to look for an owl in the long barn when we got there later.
Sign for the River Trail.

The River Trail is 2-miles long and can be connected to several other trails to make a decent sized loop. We weren’t up for that kind of distance today so we simply followed the Donner und Blitzen River for 0.3 miles before turning back.

The long barn where we’d be heading next.

We turned around here where the tread became rougher.

Interpretive signs were scattered along the trails at the P Ranch.

Lorquin’s admiral and a grasshopper.

Skipper on aster.

Once we were back at the parking area we took the left trail down to the Long Barn Trail (another service road).

History of the P Ranch which at one time covered 140,000 acres.

The owl inside the barn.

Other structures from the ranch.

We covered a mile between the two trails and then continued on the auto tour keeping watch for any wildlife as we headed north toward Krumbo Reservoir Road which was just over 10 miles away.
The gravel road is in good shape but you don’t want to drive any faster than about 10mph so you don’t miss any wildlife.

Fawns

Common nighthawk

So many red-winged blackbirds.

Hawk (northern harrier?) in a field.

More fawns and birds.

Finch?

As we neared Knox Pond we spotted something coming up Central Patrol Road. Just a bit earlier Heather had mentioned that the area we were in looked like where my parents had seen a badger on a visit last year.

It turned out that this was indeed a badger. Only the second we’ve seen.

It disappeared in the grass moments later.

Another hawk

Sandhill cranes in the field.

Sandhill cranes

We turned right onto Krumbo Reservoir Road and parked at the Krumbo Reservoir Dam Trailhead.

We followed a trail across the dam then hiked through the sagebrush a bit further to get a good view of the reservoir.

Crossing the dam.

Kiger Gorge (post) in the distance.

Kiger Gorge

Blurry due to distance but there were several deer at the far end of the reservoir.

Another long shot, a western grebe.

Not certain what this bird was but it dove into the water a couple of times.

The deer, some ducks, the western grebe and a cormorant were all that direction.

It’s possible to bushwack around the reservoir but again we weren’t up for anything that long, so we turned back after just a quarter mile.
It also appeared that some rain was on the way.

Recrossing the dam.

We returned to Central Patrol Road and continued the auto tour and the wildlife sightings.

Pheasant family

There were at least 5 deer out there.

Two

Three more

White faced ibis

California quail

Pheasant

A few of at least 10 turkey vultures in the trees above the Refuge Headquarters.

Malheur Lake from the end of the auto tour.

After completing the auto tour we returned to Burns for another night. It had been a great day for wildlife and nice to once again have all of the featured hikes in SE Oregon completed. We’re now down to 16 Eastern Oregon featured hikes. If things work out we could be finished with those by the end of next year. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Threemile Canyon and Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

Bend/Redmond Blue Mountains - South Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Dry River Canyon and Idlewild Loop – 09/02/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 6, 2023
No Comments on Dry River Canyon and Idlewild Loop – 09/02/2023

Our Labor Day Weekend plans came together in June after we’d decided that the featured hike at Dug Bar in Hells Canyon wasn’t going to happen (post). With us not willing to make the drive to that trailhead our quest to hike all 100 featured hikes in one of the editions of William L. Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon guidebooks (post) needed adjusting. We had been working out of his 2015 third edition of the “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon”, but his 2022 “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” did not include Dug Bar as a featured hike. While our Dug Bar problem was resolved by making the switch one of the new featured hikes was located in the Steens Mountain Wilderness in SE Oregon 350 miles from Salem. The long holiday weekend provided us an opportunity to head to Burns and pick up that featured hike.

We decided to stay in Burns, OR and planned on heading to the featured hike, Threemile Canyon, on Sunday. We picked a pair of other hikes for Saturday to fill the time before checking into our room. Our first stop was at the BLM managed Dry River Canyon Trail.

The canyon and trail are closed annually from February 1st through August 31st to protect wildlife, so this was a good option for this weekend having just recently reopened. We opted to park at the far end of the ODOT gravel area at a sign announcing the trail’s status as “Open”.

This left us with a 0.6-mile road walk to the actual trailhead but saved us from having to drive the primitive rocky road.

Open sign at the trailhead.

We set off on the dirt trail into the canyon which in the ancient past was the course of a river flowing from the former Lake Millican.

Rabbit in the sagebrush.

Some of the exposed rocks showed the work of the ancient river.

Shaped by water.

Colorful rock bands along the canyon wall.

While the canyon is closed to protect peregrine falcon nesting there were a number of other birds among the junipers. The most surprising for us were a number of Clark’s nutcrackers which we typically see at much higher elevations where their favorite food, the seeds of whitebark pines, is found.

There is a huge nest up on the cliffs.

The nest

Wren

American kestral

Tall sagebrush in the canyon.

The canyon reaches a depth of approximately 300′.

After just over 2 1/4 miles we arrived a boulder field where it appeared at first that the trail abruptly ended.

We knew the BLM map showed it continuing and eventually emerging from the canyon and curving to meet Highway 20 across from the Evens Well Trailhead

We were just about to turn back when we spotted the continuation of the trail heading to the right up some rock steps.

The trail climbed up and around the boulder field then dropped steeply back down to the canyon floor.

Skipper

I believe this is a ringlet of some sort.

Beyond the boulder field the canyon walls shortened and we were soon veering right out of the canyon onto a sagebrush plateau.

Heading toward the Evens Well Trailhead.

Looking toward the Dry River Canyon from the plateau. It was impossible to tell that there was such a deep canyon out there.

Pine Mountain (post) to the SE.

We returned to the canyon and returned the way we’d come. We started seeing a few hikers on our way back as well as a number of lizards soaking in the Sun’s rays.

The rock steps were more obvious on the way down them.

A sparrow behind the sticks the camera was intent on focusing on.

Bee on buckwheat

Arriving back at the official trailhead. Several SUVs were now parked here.

They’re hard to make out but the Middle and North Sisters were visible from the road walk back to the gravel area.

Including the road walk our hike here came in at 7.9 miles with 550′ of elevation gain.

We hopped in the car and continued East on Highway 20 to Burns. It was too early to check in so we headed for our second stop of the day at the Idlewild Loop Trail in the Malheur National Forest. There are two possible starting points for the hike. We followed the Forest Service directions in the previous link and parked at the Idlewild Campground. The other option would have been to start from the Idlewild Sno Park.
The trailhead at the campground.

Neat map at the trailhead.

The trail began by a small map along the campground road behind the big wooden map.

We followed this path approximately 100 yards to a “T” shaped junction with the Idlewild Loop Trail where we turned right.
Gold flagging on the sagebrush ahead marked the junction.

The trail followed a fence line before turning right along Highway 395.

Tiny frog

The trail crossed this gated road near the highway. A blue diamond marked the trails continuation.

One of several interpretive signs along the loop.

Squirrel

The highway was just out of sight to the left.

Big ponderosa

We initially missed the continuation of the trail toward the Sno Park and headed downhill to the campground road.

We crossed the campground road and quickly realized our mistake and backtracked.

This time we spotted the correct trail and forked right here.

From the unsigned junction we climbed for a tenth of a mile to a signed junction with the Microwave Trail.

There were lots of dragonflies in the area.

We turned right on the Microwave Trail and followed this trail downhill and once again crossed the campground road.

On the far side of the road the trail passed through a fence and followed an old roadbed gently uphill.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel already sporting some of its winter weight.

We followed the roadbed for a third of a mile before arriving at another signed junction.

We turned right here onto the Devine Summit Trail.

The Devine Summit Trail climbed gradually before leveling out and then eventually descending back to the Idlewild Loop Trail after just over a mile.

Deer in the forest.

There was a bit of blowdown to navigate along the trail.

Some maintenance had been done in the past. There were also a good number of benches along the trail, all of which were accompanied by a post with a number.

Another bench near this fence.

Ponderosa forest

White breasted nuthatch

Another post and bench.

Arriving at the Idlewild Loop on the far side of the fence.

We turned left to complete our loop and then took a right onto the spur that led back to the trailhead.

Our little loop here came to 2.7 miles with 300′ of elevation gain.

This was a very enjoyable hike and we didn’t see another person until we were back at our car and another couple pulled up to the trailhead. We both imagined ticks could be an issue at certain times of the year but on this day the coast was clear. We made the 25 minute drive back into Burns and checked into our room and prepared for another canyon hike the following day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Dry River Canyon and Idlewild Loop

Tags Bend, blm, Burns, Devine Summit Trail, dry river canyon, Dry River Canyon Trail, Dry River Canyon Trailhead, Evens Well Trailhead, hiking, Idlewild Campground, Idlewild Loop Trail, Idlewild Sno Park, Malheur National Forest, Microwave Trail, Oregon

Central Coast Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast

Fort Yamhill, Nestucca Bay WLR, Trask River Bend, & Rockaway Beach Cedar – 08/26/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date August 28, 2023
2 Comments on Fort Yamhill, Nestucca Bay WLR, Trask River Bend, & Rockaway Beach Cedar – 08/26/2023

A combination of wildfire smoke, hot temperatures, and possible thunderstorms convinced us to abandon our plans to backpack over the weekend. To make matters worse thunderstorms late in the week had started at least 50 new fires across several forests. We are now at the point of the year when we just want it to start raining, and if it keeps raining that’d be fine (preferably without any flooding).

Looking at the various forecasts the only decent option for us appeared to be the central coast so I looked through our future plans for something that fit the bill. I landed on a multi-stop day which included, as originally planned, five stops for short hikes surrounding Tillamook. We wound up skipping the final planned stop at Oceanside Beach after seeing how packed the beach was and finding that there was absolutely nowhere left to park in the area.

We began our morning at Fort Yamhill State Heritage Area.

A short loop passes through the site of the fort which operated between 1856-1866. The interpretive signs along the way provide insight into the lives of that time and provide a stark reminder of how poorly the Native American population was treated.
Most of the buildings are gone but this relocated Officers Quarters is being restored.

It was hard to tell at times if it was cloudy or smokey which would be a theme for most of the day.

Flagpole behind an interpretive sign.

Most of the trail is ADA accessible but not the entire loop.

The forest was quite a contrast from the open hillside.

The loop was just a little over half a mile. The numerous interpretive signs to read made it an interesting and informative first hike.

From the heritage area we made our way to the Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge.
We followed signs for the trailhead and parked in a good sized, and empty, gravel lot.

Two trails begin at the lot, the Pacific View Trail and the Two Rivers Nature Trail. We opted to start with the nature trail which started by following a gravel roadbed for a quarter mile to a trail sign.

Lots of fading flowers: yarrow, goldenrod and aster mostly.

Some of the caterpillar tents on the hillside.

We decided to follow the trail down to the viewpoint at the end of the peninsula and then take the road back up to the trailhead so at the sign we turned left onto what began as another old roadbed but quickly turned to a dirt track.

The nature trail crossed the service road after half a mile.

The continuation of the nature trail on the right.

We were pleasantly surprised at how forested this entire trail was.

There were lots of frogs hopping off the trail. Can you see this one?

Norther red-legged frog?

A little less than half a mile after crossing the road we passed a junction with a trail leading to the picnic area. We would visit the picnic area on our way back and pick up the service road there.

The trail passed a small viewpoint looking across Nestucca Bay before ending at a bench at a railed viewpoint overlooking the confluence of the Nestucca and Little Nestucca Rivers.

The Little Nestucca is to the right with the Nestucca River straight ahead.

Cormorants

After enjoying the view we headed back uphill to the junction where we turned right and made our way to the picnic area.

We disturbed a doe near the picnic area.

The doe leaving the picnic area.

A path here leads down to the bay to provide fishing access (we didn’t follow it).

From the picnic area we followed the roadbed a mile back to the trailhead.

Ground squirrel

Thistle

Wilson’s warbler

The overlook on the far hillside.

The trailhead from the service road.

Once we’d returned to the trailhead we walked to the opposite end and picked up the Pacific View Trail near the outhouse.

A paved path led uphill through the meadow to the wooden overlook.

Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda (post) from the trail.

Haystack Rock

Pearly everlasting, spirea, and aster.

View from the overlook.

Bench at the overlook.

Little Nestucca River from the overlook.

White-crowned sparrow

Ladybug

This was an enjoyable stop and left us wanting to return in the future to hopefully have a clearer view and see the refuge at different times of the year. With both trails this stop came in at 3.5 miles and approximately 350′ of elevation gain.

From the refuge we headed north on Highway 101 toward Tillamook but turned just before crossing the Trask River and making our way to the Peninsula Park Trailhead.

Part of the Tillamook State Forest the Peninsula Day Use Area offers a nearly 1-mile loop with views of the Trask River and picnic tables at the far end of the peninsula.

Trask River from the trailhead.

Garter snake near the trailhead.

It’s recommended to hike the loop counter-clockwise but we failed to pay attention to that hint and after staying right at the first trail pointer we forked left when the trail split again after 500′.
We followed the pointer here and went right.

Here we again followed the pointer and went left. We failed to notice the pointer on the lower sign not facing us. It was also hard to tell if the rocks were actually part of a trail or just a scramble route. Turns out they are “stone steps”.

Having gone left we quickly passed a short spur down to the riverbank.

The inland clouds were breaking up giving us some nice blue sky.

Ouzel

After exploring the riverbank we returned to the trail and continued on the loop.

Big tree along the trail.

Arriving at the picnic area.

The picnic area provides access to a small sandy beach at the Trask River Bend.

After a short break at the bend we started back. From the picnic area the trail climbed up the ridge, steeply at times following it to the high point then down to fork where we’d forked left.
The trail to the left.

Huge nursery log.

It’s hard to see here but this section was very steep.

Steps along the ridge.

The stone steps looked more like steps from this direction.

Arriving back at the trailhead.

Given the steepness of the trail along the ridge we could see why going counterclockwise would have been preferable, but it was a nice hike nonetheless.

Up to this point the only other people we had seen was another couple that arrived at Fort Yamhill as we were getting back into our car. That was about to change with our fourth stop of the day at the Rockaway Cedar Preserve.

The trailhead is located along Highway 101 north of Tillamook.

We wound up parking on the shoulder of the highway a short distance from the full trailhead (along with many other vehicles). We walked back along the shoulder to the trailhead and set off on the raised boardwalk.

Skunk cabbage

Bindweed

While there were quite a few people visiting the preserve there were still moments when we had the boardwalk to ourselves.

The half mile boardwalk ends at a 154′ tall western red cedar whose trunk has a circumference of 50′.

Tree root along the cedar from another tree that is growing from it.

Another big cedar, but not anywhere near as big as the other.

After admiring the huge tree we returned the way we’d come taking a short detour to the “viewing platform”.

We passed a “hiker trail” pointer which is a reportedly rough, muddy track that links up to the boardwalk near the big cedar. We had seen the other end near the smaller big cedar but there was a “trail closed” sign at that end so we hadn’t even considered taking it.

Interpretive sign at the viewing platform. There were some benches here which were mostly occupied and not much of a view.

Salal

We returned to the trailhead and drove back south to Oceanside where we had planned for a final short hike, but as I mentioned earlier the Oceanside Beach State Wayside parking lot was full with multiple cars circling for spots and the road into and through Oceanside was also lined with cars. That was enough to convince us that our day was over. We will try Oceanside again during a less busy time of the year and likely as our first hike of the morning.

This was a shorter day with the four hikes totaling 6.8-miles with 700′ of total elevation gain. It had been a fun day with a very diverse set of hikes, all of which we would revisit.
The trailhead locations around Tillamook.

We still have a few trips planned this year to complete featured hikes (post) so we are hoping for some rain over the next couple of months to help control the fires and knock down the smoke. In the meantime we will have to adjust to conditions as we go. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Ft. Yamhill, Nestucca WLR, Trask River Bend, and Rockaway Cedar

Tags Fort Yamhill, Fort Yamhill State Heritage Area, hiking, Little Nestucca River, nestucca bay, Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge, Nestucca river, Oregon, Oregon Coast, Pacific View Trail, Pacific View Trailhead, Peninsula Day Use Area, Rockaway Beach, Rockaway Cedar Preserve, Trask River, Trask River Bend, Two Rivers Trail