Our third day on the southern Oregon coast was set to be our longest day mileage wise with stops at the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve and Sunset Bay State Park. The second stop would allow us to hike through that park, Shore Acres State Park and Cape Arago State Park.
We started our day parking at the closed (stupid COVID) interpretative center at South Slough Reserve.

It looked like it would be full of good info and we’ll have to come back someday post pandemic when we can experience it. For now we settled for the trails walking behind the center and picking up the Ten Minute Loop Trail where we turned right.

After just a tenth of a mile we came to a junction with the Middle Creek Trail where we turned right detouring briefly to check out an opening where in better times talks are given by staff members.


We followed the Middle Creek Trail downhill through a coastal forest to a road crossing where the Hidden Creek Trail continued on the far side.

All the bridges had labels consisting of the first initial of the trail and then the bridge number making this the 4th bridge along the Middle Creek Trail.
Interesting seat.
That’s a fancy hat for a stump.


The Hidden Creek Trail continued downhill following the creek to Hidden Creek Marsh where a series of boardwalks passed through giant skunk cabbage patches. We stayed to the right each time the boardwalks split (they eventually rejoined along the way).


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We saw a lot of rough skinned newts on the trails, but what we were really hopping for was a Pacific Giant Salamander. No luck there this time.


A few trillium still had petals.
Woodpecker

We heard a few frogs and we were looking in the skunk cabbage to see if we could spot any. We didn’t see any of the frogs but we did spot several others on the plants.




A hedgenettle
At the end of Boardwalk 2 the trail became the Tunnel Trail and headed back into the forest.

After a short climb we came to a nice big observation deck. The view was good but there wasn’t much to observe on this morning.


We ignored the Big Cedar Trail to the left when we passed it and continued on the Tunnel Trail passing a couple of more viewpoints out to the South Slough. While we had struck out at the observation deck we now could see movement which turned out to be over a half dozen raccoons crossing the mud flats in search of breakfast.

Tunnel Trail indeed.



This marked the first time we’d seen raccoons on a hike and we had a lot of fun watching them search for snacks. Shortly after passing some restrooms the trail came to a junction where we headed downhill to a shed and another junction.

We turned right by the shed passing under an awning to the Sloughside Trail

We turned right first passing several wooden decks before the trail ended along the slough.


Castilleja ambigua – Estuarine Paintbrush


After watching more raccoons from the end of this spur we returned to the shed and took the left hand fork. This spur was a bit longer (still only .1 miles) and passed along a narrow strip between flats.


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End of the line.
South Slough
It was interesting to see how this uprooted tree peeled back a layer of the ground.
We again returned to the shed staying to the right and crossing a nice bridge on the North Creek Trail.

Rhoades Marsh
Sloughside Marsh
Rhododendron
A third of a mile along the North Creek Trail we came to the signed .15 mile North Creek Spur.

We decided to check it out and followed the short trail downhill to a different view of the Sloughside Marsh.



We returned to the North Creek Trail and followed it uphill back to the Ten Minute Loop Trail where we turned right for a tenth of a mile to the Interpretive Center.
Bleeding heart, fairy bells, and youth-on-age.



This was an excellent 4 mile hike with 300′ of elevation gain.

From the Interpretive Center we returned to Seven Devils Road and followed it north to Charleston were we turned left onto the Cape Arago Highway to Sunset Bay State Park, a total of 6.7 miles from the center. We parked at Sunset Bay Middle (there is a North, Middle, and South but we didn’t realize that before we parked) which added a tenth of a mile each way to our hike but we had a nice view of Sunset Beach and Bay.

We walked over to Sunset Bay South and picked up the Oregon Coast Trail at a bridge over Big Creek.



The trail climbed to the top of the cliffs overlooking the Pacific as it looped around a large grass clearing that in non-pandemic times acts as a group camp.

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Cape Arago Lighthouse (not on Cape Arago) on Chiefs Island.


Salal

The group campsite.
We followed pointers for the Oregon Coast Trail which briefly followed the shoulder of Cape Arago Highway as it passed Norton Gulch.



On the far side of the gulch the trail veered away from the highway and by staying right at junctions soon got back to the cliffs above the ocean providing some excellent views.








A long pause in our hike came when we stopped to watch some harbor seals on the rocks below us.
Harbor seals in the lower right hand corner on the rocks.

Drama was unfolding in front of us as one pup repeatedly attempted to follow its mother up onto the rocks only to slide back into the water. It finally found success and then back into the water they went. Apparently it was just a practice run.


Success!
After tearing ourselves away from the seal show we continued south along the cliffs.
Paintbrush
Sea thrift
Mariposa lilies
Iris
Just over two miles into the hike we came to the first noticeable remnants of the 1906 estate of timber baron Louis Simpson.
Former tennis courts.
It was windy on the plateau and I couldn’t help but wonder how anyone could play tennis in the windy conditions that are often present on the coast.
View near the tennis courts.
These roots explain how some of the trees that look like they should be plunging into the ocean don’t.
Observation Building ahead on the cliff.
The rocks along the coastline here had been pounded and carved by the ocean into some interesting shapes and designs.




We walked past the Observation Building (closed due to COVID) to a viewpoint overlooking Simpson Cove.


The Oregon Coast Trail dropped down to the cove before climbing again and continuing onto Cape Arago State Park but before we headed down we wanted to check out the Shore Acres Gardens which were open (limit of 75 persons at a time).



It was a little early yet for many of the flowers, especially the rose garden, but there was still a lot to see. The most impressive specimens to us were a plant and tree from South America.






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Prickly Rhubarb from Chile




Monkey Puzzle Tree from South America
The yet to bloom rose garden.


After winding our way through the gardens we returned to the Oregon Coast Trail and followed it down to Simpson Beach.


After climbing up from the beach we came to an unsigned junction where we turned right continuing to follow the cliff south for .9 miles to an overlook along the Cape Arago Highway of Simpson Reef.

Looking back across Simpson Cove to the Observation Building.
Simpson Reef extending into the Pacific.

There was a lot of action going on out on the reef, in particular on Shell Island where sea lions barked and eagles engaged in aerial combat.
Shell Island in the middle of Simpson Reef.
Sea lions and juvenile bald eagles on Shell Island.




Harbor seals on the reef.
After watching the action for awhile we continued on our trek by crossing the Highway onto a hiking trail marked by a post.


Coltsfoot
After a half mile on this trail we arrived at the Cape Arago Pack Trail.

Left would loop us back to Shore Acres State Park while heading right would drop us into the main part of Cape Arago State Park. We turned right to check out more of the park and popped out near the South Cove of Cape Arago.
Woolly bear caterpillar
Looking back up the Pack Trail.
A short trail led down to the beach in the South Cove (and possible tidepools) but we were starting to feel the effects of 3 straight days of hiking and having to climb back up from the cove just didn’t sound appealing so we opted to take a break at bench overlooking the cove in a picnic area.


Plaque near the bench commermorating Sir Frances Drake’s visit to the area in 1579.
Our stalker while we sat at the bench hoping we would leave some food behind (we didn’t).
After the break we continued to follow the parking area around Cape Arago passing Middle Cove and then arriving at the North Cove Trail.

We thought we might be hearing things, but no it was a rooster crowing.
Stellar’s jay

We decided to take this trail as it only lost a little elevation on its way to a ridgeend viewpoint with a view of a different side of Shell Island.
North Cove (A trail down to that beach was closed for the season.)



From the North Cove Trail it was shorter to continue around the parking loop to reach the Pack Trail instead of backtracking so that’s what we did. The Cape Arago Pack Trail gained approximately 300′ in just under a mile to reach its high point at 530′. There had been caution signs regarding storm damage which we found near the high point where a clearcut had left trees overly exposed to winds causing several large ones to be uprooted. Luckily crews had cleared the trail beacuse the size and amount of trees down here would have been very problematic to get past.




The trail then descended to a small stream crossing before climbing again to a ridgetop.
Heading down.
Going up.
On the ridge we turned left at a junction on an old roadbed which followed the ridge down to the highway passing an old WWII radar installation bunker near the highway.


The Cape Arago Pack Trail at the highway.
We recrossed the highway here into Shore Acres State Park.

Just five hundred feet after crossing the road we came to the unsigned junction where we had turned right earlier after climbing up from Simpson Beach only we both missed it. Luckily we realized our mistake less than fifty yards later and got onto the right path. At this point we had hiked 12.5 miles on the day and it was closing in on 3pm due to all our extended breaks and we were getting tired. We decided to take the straightest path back to our car instead of following the Oregon Coast Trail as we had done earlier. We followed the entrance road in Shore Acres to the fee booth where we turned left on an old roadbed that now acts as a trail.



Going this way shortened our return trip by nearly 3/4 of a mile but it meant missing the views along the cliffs where we had watched the seals earlier. When we reached the Oregon Coast Trail we turned right and followed it back to the group camp at Sunset Bay State Park. We shortened our hike even further here by cutting through the empty camp, a move that shaved another 1/2 mile off the hike. It was a good thing too because our feet were not happy with us when we finally made it back to our car.

It had been a great day though with the two hikes combining for a 14.3 mile day. Happy Trails!




Madia
Blue dicks


The poison oak trap in the afternoon.
Bridge over Billings Creek.
Del Norte iris

Tolmie’s mariposa lily
Douglas iris with insect.


More mariposa lilies (with a poison oak background)
Thimbleberry

The Rogue River from the trail during one of the climbs.
Henderson’s stars
One of dozens of lizards we saw (or heard).
Camas
Footbridge over Flea Creek




Oregon sunshine
Elegant brodiaea

Yarrow
Bindweed
Poppies




Clay Hill Lodge
Rafts in Clay Hill Rapids


Winecup clarkia


One of the dozens of photos I took trying to get the swallow tail in flight.



Thimbleberry
Salmonberry
McLeod Creek
One of the sharp turns.
Fairy bells
Columbine
Bleeding heart
Monkeyflower
Sourgrass
Star flower
Trillium
Star flower solomonseal
Twisted stalk
Wren – We heard lots of birds but didn’t see many of them.

Waterleaf


Marker for a fire scarred Douglas fir. According to the brochure the last major fire in the area was in the 1860s.


We had to climb over this big tree.



Looking at the bridge at the north end of the lake.
Canada geese
Cormorants flying above the lake.
Cormorant

Ring necked ducks
Rhododendron
Boardwalk at the south end of the lake.
Sparrow
Coming up on the bridge at the north end.
Yellow rumped warbler
Finch
The trail on the far side of the track.

One of three panels on a signboard at the start of the trails.
This bench is at the junction.
Sparrow near the junction.
Heading to the observation structure.
Looking toward Coos Bay along the Coos River.
McCullough Memorial Bridge spanning Coos Bay.
Wetlands from the end of the spur.
Bitter cherry
Crow
Turkey vulture
Cormorants overhead
Canada goose with goslings
Buttercups
Pale flax
Arriving back at the field.
Ground squirrel enjoying the view.
Twomile Creek
Shore bird in the creek.





Brass buttons (another non-native)


Whiskey Run Beach lay on the other side of the rocks with another parking area 0.8 further south.
A cormorant off Fivemile Point





View from the bench.








Coming up on the hollow trunk straight ahead.









Equestrian Trail at the trailhead.
On the old roadbed/Equestrian Trail.
Vanilla leaf
Fairy bells
Violets
Star-flowered false solomon seal
Youth-on-age
Possibly a cinquefoil
Thimbleberry
Fringecup
At the 4-way jct the Equestrian Trial continued straight with the West Hardy Trail to the left and Lower Loop Trail to the right.

Salmonberry
False solomon seal
Bleeding heart
Here come the clouds.

Baneberry
Trillium
Paintbrush
Red flowering currant
Chocolate lily

Anemones
Looking across the Columbia River into Oregon.
Horsetail Falls (
Field chickweed and Oregon grape
Junction at the saddle.
Glacier lily
Trilliums
Glacier lilies along the trail.
Another hiker caught up to us at this rock field not far from the high point. It looked like the trail was going across the rocks for a bit and she decided to turn around but after just a few feet the trail resumed behind a bush.
Phlox
Paintbrush and glacier lilies.
The high point.
Glacier lilies at the high point.

Hamilton Mountain (high point to the right) and the Columbia River.
Bonneville Dam and the Hamilton Mountain Trail crossing The Saddle.
Upper McCord Creek Falls (

Squirrel
Snail

Bleeding heart along a little stream.
False lily-of-the-valley getting ready to bloom.
Possibly a Dictyoptera aurora (Golden net-winged beetle)




Hardy Ridge from the Upper Hardy Trail.
The left fork would have been slightly longer by leading us around the back side of a knoll and making a 180 degree turn following the east side of the ridge toward The Saddle.
We turned right opting for the slightly shorter route to The Saddle.
Coltsfoot
Southern junction of the two forks of the Upper Hardy Trail.
Hikers coming down from Hamilton Mountain.

Dons Cutoff Trail nearing the Upper Hardy Trail.
Upper Hardy Trail
Equestrian Trail
Hardy Creek





Spotted this guy while I was photographing the slug above. Not sure if it’s a crane fly or ?


Looking back toward the meadow.
Western white groundsel
Showy phlox
Larkspur
Mahala Mat (Prostrate ceanothus)

Showy phlox among the oaks.
Serviceberry
Sparrow
Oregon grape
Strawberry
Arnica
Grayback Mountain from Grayback Road. The first 2.5 miles of the hike only gained 400′ while the next 3.1 gained 1400′.
Large head clover
Camas, much of which had yet to bloom.
Ponderosa pines along the road.
Western buttercups
Woodland star and slender phlox
Pussytoes and camas
A cryptantha
Oaks and ponderosas
Lupine
Robin
Dark eyed junco
Bumble bee
A more forested section of the road.
Ball-head waterleaf
Largeleaf sandwort
American vetch
Dandelions in Mahala Mat
Bitter cherry
The real climb started at about the 4 mile mark at a junction below Grayback Mountain.
Sagebrush false dandelion
Climbing up Grayback Mountain
Red breasted nuthatch
First view of Mt. Hood since the trailhead.
Mt. Hood
Buckwheat
Mt. Hood beyond the Klickitat River Canyon
Turkey vulture
Entering the meadows on Grayback Mountain.
Approaching the first view of Mt. Adams.
Mt. Adams
Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and Goat Rocks
Mt. Rainier and Goat Rocks
In the meadows.
A balsamroot surrounded by parsley.
Indra swallowtail
Western meadowlark in a patch of Columbia desert parsley.
Radio equipment atop Grayback Mountain with Mt. Adams beyond.
Mt. Hood (we could just barely make out the top of Mt. Jefferson too.) from the summit.
The Klickitat River
Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and Goat Rocks
Mt. Adams
Mt. Rainier and Goat Rocks (the Klickitat River originates from Goat Rocks.)
Daggerpod
Obligatory survey marker photo.
Looking east across the summit to the long ridge of Indian Rock. The boundary of the Yakima Indian Reservation is just on the north side of the summit.
A few gold stars still had petals.
A hairstreak but I’m not sure which type.
At least 4 ants on a large head clover.
Looking back south down Grayback Mountain.
There was a lot of white-stemmed frasera in the area but this was the closest one to blooming (and it’s a ways off).
Maybe a brown elfin. I couldn’t get a clear picture of this one.
Erynnis propertius – Propertius Duskywing (aka Western Oak Dustywing). There were lots of these duskywings flying about, it turns out that oaks are their host plants.
Another Erynnis propertius
Juba skippers caught in the act.
Anise swallowtail coming in for a landing on showy phlox.
Alligator lizard on a log.
Western fence lizard
I believe these to be Mylitta crescents.
Mt. Hood from the trailhead.


Death camas
Western stoneseed
Fiddleneck
Large-flower tritelia
Mt. Hood beyond Horsethief Lake
Standing at the fence looking east.
Wren
Horsethief Butte
Lupine





Horsethief Butte and Mt. Hood from the viewpoint.

Purple cushion fleabane
Balsamroot



Western bluebird
Ground squirrel


Lupine, balsamroot and parsley
The Crawford Ranch Complex ahead to the left.
Phlox







Approaching the fence line.
Yellow-rumped warbler
Back of a scrub jay




Mt. Hood
Mt. Jefferson




Yakima milk-vetch


The Columbia River, Horsethief Butte, and Mt. Hood
Death camas
Large head clover
Approaching the junction.
Hawk watching all the hikers.
A different hawk? watching the goings on.
Western fence lizard watching everything.
Poppy, manroot, and red-stemmed storksbill
The crowded trailhead

While both were part of the Crawford Ranch, Stacker Butte is not part of the Columbia Hills State Park but is part of the Columbia Hills Natural Area Preserve.
Yakima milk-vetch
Paintbrush amid the balsamroot.
Phlox
Big-seed biscuitroot
Sicklepod rockcress
Sagebrush false dandelions
Daggerpod
Daggerpod
Slender toothwort?
Shooting stars in front of a little blue-eyed Mary
Large head clover
Popcorn flower
Larkspur
Woodland stars
Mt. Adams
Mt. Rainier
Goat Rocks
Swallowtail
Western fence lizards
White crowned sparrow
Another sparrow
Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood as we neared the trailhead.

Mt. Jefferson from the trailhead.
A few lupine and buttercups
Camas
Castilleja levisecta – Golden Paintbrush
A few little flowers starting to open up.
View from the deck.
Western meadowlark








Camas pretending to be part of a lupine plant.
White crowned sparrow
Hawk
Lesser scaup
American wigeons
Pied billed grebe
Yellowlegs

Savannah sparrow
Swallows
A robin, a western bluebird and swallows
A green winged teal and a cinnamon teal in a small marsh.
This scrub jay wasn’t shy.
Neither was this serious looking spotted towhee
Norther shovelers heading to the opposite side of the lake.
A bufflehead and some lesser scaups
Canada goose flyover
Mallard pair
Old out building below Baskett Butte.
Not only was this uphill but we didn’t know for sure where it might lead.
Along the field we went.

Looking uphill along the row of brush.
An extremely small portion of the geese.
Baskett Butte from the field.



Mt. Hood from the refuge road
The Three Sisters from the road
Yellow paintbrush
Cabell Barn
Rabbit at the lodge
Cabell Marsh Overlook
White crowned sparrows
Deer in a field near Cabell Marsh
Cabell Marsh (the marsh had been drained when we visited in 2020)
Norther shovelers
American coots
Ring-necked ducks
Buffleheads
Black pheobe
American wigeons
Cabell Marsh
Canada geese
Wood duck, ring-necked ducks and a pied billed grebe
More northern shovelers
Ring-necked ducks
Green winged teal
Robin


Killdeer
Red-winged blackbird
Junction with the Pigeon Butte Trail (grassy track heading uphill)
Tortoiseshell butterfly
Spotted towhee serenade
Bewick’s wren
Madrone
Mourning dove
Camas blooming near the summit
View from Pigeon Butte
Scrub jay spotted on the way down.
One of the “blue” butterflies, maybe a silvery blue
Acorn woodpecker
Looking back at Pigeon Butte, the yellow paintbrush was starting its bloom on the hillside.


Looking back at Pigeon Butte and the Cheadle Barn
Western bluebird
Bruce Rd and a sign for the overlook.
Swallows at the overlook
Mary’s Peak and Pigeon Butte from the overlook.
Mary’s Peak (
Ground squirrel on Bruce Rd.
Sparrows
Western bluebird
Mitigation Wetland
Egret
heron flying by the egret
Northern shoveler
Green winged teals
Trailhead off of Bruce Road
Ground squirrel
Entering the woods
Giant white wakerobin
Fairybells
Startled heron
Egret and a cinnamon teal pair and maybe an American wigeon

Candyflower
The pink turned out to be shooting stars.
Iris
Bleeding heart
One of many fairy slippers
It took some work to get the camera to stop focusing on the brush in the foreground.
Buttercups
Violets
Fawn lilies
Back at the junction and onto the Intertie Trail

Service berry
The Woodpecker Loop
Norther flicker along the Woodpecker Loop
Amphibian pond and interpretive kiosk.
Viewing structure
Mt. Jefferson
The Three Sisters
This was the best shot I could get at 40x zoom with the sun in front of me.



Buffleheads
Canada goose and mallards
American coot
Ring-necked ducks (I’m not sure all the females are the same.)
Geese flying over Eagle Marsh as the Sun rises.

Willow Marsh
A bufflehead and mallards
Mallards and ring-necked ducks
Teal Marsh to the left of the dike.
Mallards an northern shovelers
Buffleheads
Spotted towhee
Red-winged blackbird
Female red-winged blackbird
Sparrow
Yellow-rumped warbler
Geese coming in for a landing on Teal Marsh
Northern flicker
Green-winged teal
Ring-necked ducks and a bufflehead pair
Scrub jay
Pie billed grebe at Eagle Marsh




I didn’t see it when I took the picture but it appears there is an eagle on the ground in the distance here.
One of the egrets taking off.
Brewer’s blackbird on a tree along the railroad tracks.
Pintail Marsh ahead on the left.
The dike between Mohoff Pond and Pintail Marsh.
Ducks at Pintail Marsh
Pintail Marsh
Looking back at the gate and Wintel Road
Yellow legs

The boardwalk across Dunlin Pond from the dike.
Ring-necked ducks
Ring-necked ducks taking off.
Sparrow
Common yellowthroat
Hawk and a sparrow
Killdeer Marsh
Another yellow legs?
Mustard along Killdeer Marsh
A killdeer amid ducks at Killdeer Marsh
South Pond
Cinnamon Teal in South Pond
Damaged trees from the ice storm earlier this year.
Turkey vulture
Candyflower


American coots
I think this is a ring-necked duck and a lesser scaup.

The dike from the blind.



Killdeer on the dike.
A whole lot of geese in the air ahead.

Green-winged teals
Northern shovelers
Canada geese
Another green-winged teal
Various ducks
Northern pintails
Crow
A green-winged teal and a yellow legs


Bench at a switchback.

Reroute below Mitchell Point
Mushrooms’ and some sedums.


Houndstongue
Grass Widows
Woodland stars
Yellow bell lily
Desert parsley and woodland stars
A saxifrage
Gold stars and woodland stars
Looking west
North across the Columbia River into Washington
East
Looks like moss for a nest maybe?
Turkeys on the Wygant Trail

Red leaves of poison oak behind a death camas
More poison oak behind a waterleaf
Poison oak around some balsamroot



Fiddleneck
Desert parsley
Manroot
Lots of death camas blooming on the plateau.
Looking up at the cliffs above.
Balsamroot blooming below the rim.

Balsamroot
Woodland stars with some lupine leaves
Columbia desert parsley
A biscuitroot
Balsamroot
Balsamroot
View west (With a snow capped Mt. Defiance (
Larkspur
Buttercups
Glacier lilies
Yellow bell lily, woodland stars, grass widows and shooting stars.
Yellow bell lilies
Toothwort
Sagebrush false dandelions
Tortoiseshell butterfly



Tom McCall Point and the Rowena Plateau with Mt. Defiance in the distance.
Hikers on the trailhead and below.
Just my third photo of an orange-tip.

Mt. Hood and Columbia desert parsley from the first knoll we tried.
Top of knoll #1.
A lone balsamroot blossom.

The path leading past the spring to the oaks.
The spring
Back on the right side
Balsamroot surrounded by some little white flowers.
Lupine thinking about blooming.
Larkspur
Yellow bell lilies
We didn’t notice any poison oak here.
A grass widow at the viewpoint.
Mt. Adams
Mt. Hood over the oak stand.



The Dalles beyond the fence line.
Heading down the fence line.
Large head clover

A lupine with blossoms.
Hillside covered in Columbia desert parsley
Our car had been joined by one other. (middle left of photo)
Gooseberry Creek