**Note the 2020 Lionshead Fire burned the area covered by this hike.**
We were looking for a relatively short, nearby hike so that we could get back to Salem early. It was Salem Summit Companys (our favorite local outdoor store)7th anniversary so they were having a sale, raffle, and free pizza. We turned to Matt Reeder’s “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mt. Jefferson Region” for inspiration and chose a pair of hikes not far outside of Detroit, OR.
Our first stop was at the Breitenbush Cascades. The trailhead for this short (a third of a mile) hike is located on one of the worst Forest Service roads in NW Oregon, FR 4220 aka Skyline Road. We had braved this road once before on a hike to Jefferson Park Ridge (post). That had been a much longer drive on this road than the 3.5 miles we had to endure to reach the pullout on the right shortly before the the road crossed North Fork Breitenbush River. A very small temporary Forest Service sign was all that marked the trailhead where a pair of paths led into the forest. In hindsight we should have taken the path leaving to the left of the parking area, but instead we took the path straight ahead.

As we would discover in a few minutes the trail to the left went straight to the river then turned right along the water to meet up with the path we’d taken. The path we took descended a bit and also brought us to the river near a small cascade.


There was also a view here to Bear Point across the valley, a hike that we are hoping to do later this month.

The trail switchbacked down to what Reeder describes as the top tier of the Breitenbush Cascades.


The river almost immediately spills over the lip of another cascade.

This second tier is reachable via another switchback although the trail down is steeper and there is a bit of an awkward drop down some exposed rock.


Slick rocks and moss make caution here important as the river plunges downhill yet again beyond the second tier.
The river below the second tier.
The river actually loses over 1200′ from this second tier as it cascades down to join the South Fork North Fork Breitenbush River. By all accounts this is likely the tallest waterfall in Oregon if the cascades are considered a single feature, but the steepness of the terrain make this second tier the final tier that is safely reachable, at least without special equipment.
We headed back uphill to the small cascade above the first tier where we stayed right along the water. This led us back to the parking area via that left hand trail and past another nice little cascade on the river.


We drove back down FR 4220 and wound up passing what appeared to be a brand new Mercedes SUV (complete with dealer plates) coming up the rocky, rutted road. I guess that’s one way to break a new car in.
Once we’d finished with the 3.5 miles of FR 4220 we turned left on paved FR 46 and drove 5.6 miles to FR 50 (11 miles from Highway 22 at Detroit). After .2 miles of potholes on this gravel road we parked at a pullout on the left at the remains of a guard station that burned in 2000.

From the pullout we walked down the road to a gate for the Breitenbush Hot Springs Resort and turned left onto the signed Gorge Trail.


We had been on this trail before in 2013 (post). This time we planned on the more strenuous hike to Devil’s Peak.
Even thought we’d been on this first section of trail there had been some changes. Namely the footbridges that lead across the North Fork Breitenbush River which need to be repaired or replaced routinely.




After crossing the river the trail climbed gradually through the forest where we spotted our first blooming Washington lily and prince’s pine of the year.



Just over a mile from the parking area we passed a spur trail on the left joining from South Breitenbush Gorge Trailhead.

At the 1.5 mile mark we arrived at the signed junction with the Emerald Forest Trail.


While the South Breitenbush Gorge Trail is maintained by the Forest Service a network of trails including the Emerald Forest and Devil’s Ridge Trails are maintained by the Breitenbush Hot Springs Retreat and Conference Center.
We turned onto the Emerald Forest Trail which descended for 100 yards to a footbridge over the South Fork Breitenbush River. A previous version of the bridge could be seen to the left.


Beyond the river the trail steadily climbed for nearly a mile to a junction with the Spotted Owl Trail. Here we turned left following pointers for the Cliff Trail and Devil’s Lookout.





This trail also climbed as it transitioned from unburned forest to the fire scar of the 2017 Little Devil Fire.


Just over a quarter mile from the trail junction we arrived at a second junction along a ridge where the Devil’s Ridge Trail continued climbing to the left while the Cliff Trail dropped to the right.


We turned left and as we started what would be a fairly intense climb a woodpecker tapped away at the trees.


A little less than a quarter mile from the junction we came to a somewhat ominous sign.

While “at your own risk” gave us something to think about at least the trail wasn’t closed so we ducked under the sign and continued. We were ready to turn back if either of us felt uncomfortable but in the meantime we continued to climb.
Because the trail follows the spine of a ridge there isn’t a lot of room for it to zigzag up so at times it was brutally steep. We tried to entertain ourselves with the remaining flowers which included our first fireweed, diamond clarkia, scouler’s bluebells (lots), and pearly everlasting of the year.

A clump of fireweed.

Scouler’s bluebells
Diamond clarkia
Cat’s ear lily
yarrow
Pearly everlasting
A little over a half mile from the junction we arrived at the Devil’s Lookout, a rocky viewpoint. Although we had some blue sky overhead clouds seemed to be encircling us.



The trail then dropped a bit as it crossed a somewhat level saddle before launching itself uphill again.


Another Washington lily

After gaining 200′ in a tenth of a mile the trail became more reasonable as it climbed along a much gentler slope. There were some interesting rock formations along this section.


Devil’s Peak ahead
In addition to the rocks we spotted a spectacular Washington Lily with various stages of blooms. It smelled just as good as it looked too.



As the trail neared Devil’s Peak it took a different approach than launching straight uphill and wound around to the left. The tread along the hillside had been damaged by the fire and required a little caution.


The trail wrapped around to the opposite side of Devil’s Peak where there were a few reaming wildflowers from what looked like it had been a decent display.

A trail used to continue along the ridge all the way to Triangulation Peak (post) but that trail had long been abandoned before the fire.

The trail now got back to business and did indeed head basically straight up to the top of Devil’s Peak.

The view had reportedly been great of Mt. Jefferson before the fire and with many trees now burned the view was even more open, but those pesky clouds just weren’t cooperating.

Ironically we had been able to see Mt. Jefferson clear as a bell during our drive to Detroit but the best we could get now that we were closer was a glimpse of the snowy lower flank.


Triangulation Peak was below the clouds though.


We spent some time resting and exploring the summit which had some excellent rocks to sit on.


After a nice break we stared down. The steepness of the descent made it necessary to keep our speed under control and it was tough on the knees.
A typical steep section.
We stopped when we could, breaking for insects and ripe strawberries.




When we arrived back at the trail junction we stayed straight on the Cliff Trail which continued the theme of steep descents. After just 200 feet we veered left at a “Cliffs” pointer.


Short spur trails led out to a couple of cliff top viewpoints which overlooked the forest.






Beyond the cliffs the trail really dropped as it descended into a narrow valley.
Looking back up from the bottom.
Still dropping but much more gradually.
Approximately a half mile from the cliffs the trail ended at the Spotted Owl Trail. Here a right turn takes you back to the Emerald Forest Trail in half a mile where you can then return to the trailhead via the earlier route.


If you have a shuttle car that you left at the Spotted Owl Trailhead or if you are a guest at the resort you can turn left here and follow the Spotted Owl Trail a little over a mile to the visitor parking area at Breitenbush Hot Springs. The description in Reeder’s book has you loop through the resort but the resort has apparently hardened their stance on allowing hikers to pass through the resort itself.
This wasn’t a particularly long hike (9-10 miles) and the roughly 2400′ of elevation gain isn’t all that high a number but the steepness of those gains made this a surprisingly tough hike. It would have been nice to have had a view of Mt. Jefferson but this year seems to be the year of partly cloudy skies so all we can do is keep trying. In any event it was a nice hike and gave us a good excuse to check out the Breitenbush Cascades. Happy Trails!

Arrow leaf buckwheat
Blue-head gilia, stonecrop, wild onion, and arrow leaf buckwheat
Farewell-to-spring waiting for the Sun (just like us)
Tiger lily
Twin flower
Penstemon
Lupine
Arnica?
Patinbrush and penstemon
Columbine
Lots of arnica
First viewpoint approximately 1 mile in.
First viewpoint
Second viewpoint, about 1.5 miles in. The hillside was covered in cat’s ear lilies.
Penstemon and cat’s ears
Cat’s ears and wild onion

Two kinds of paintbrush
Onion
Looks to be some sort of orchid
Blue-head gilia and an unknown yellow flower.
Arrow leaf buckwheat and blue-head gilia
A bunch of flowers
Starting up Grassy Knoll

Balsamroot
Catchfly


A little better view down for a moment.

Larkspur










Phlox and a cat’s ear lily





Another type of penstemon
Beargrass




Not sure what this is either, it’s the first time we recall seeing it.



































Snowy flank of Mt. Adams through the clouds.



Wind Mountain and the Columbia River
Little Huckleberry Mountain and Big Lava Bed
A bit of Mt. Adams again.








The only tiger lily that seemed to be open yet.
orange agoseris beginning to open.
Cat’s ear lily
Pussytoes




The Three Sisters and Broken Top
Larkspur along the trail.
Bunchberry
Anemone
Another meadow
The Three Sisters and Broken Top
Queen’s cup
The Three Sisters, Broken Top, and a bit of Mt. Bachelor
Rhododendron
Another meadow full of not-in-bloom beargrass.
View from the SW facing hillside.
Looking SE

Diamond Peak through the trees.
Valerian in the saddle.




Mt. Yoran, Diamond Peak, and Mt. Bailey
Mt. Yoran and Diamond Peak
Mt. Bailey
View to the NE (from the afternoon on the way back)
The Husband, Three Sisters, Broken Top, and Ball Butte(from the afternoon on the way back)
Mt. Jefferson and the tips of Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Washington












Giant blue-eyed Mary
Giant blue-eyed Mary
Giant blue-eyed Mary and blue-head gilia
Cat’s ear lily and blue-head gilia
Coneflower
Cow parsnip
Tall mountain bluebell
More of the blue flowers
Larkspur
Jacob’s ladder
An aster or fleabane
Columbine and valerian
Lupine
Not sure what type of flower this one is.
Valerian filled meadow below the trail.
White yarrow, giant blue-eyed Mary, and tall mountain bluebells

Looking back at our route so far.
The trail coming around Kelsey Creek is visible on the hillside behind us.

Fuji Mountain (left), flat topped Mt. David Douglass, Mt. Yoran (shorter thumb to the left of Diamond Peak), and Diamond Peak.
Mt. Yoran and Diamond Peak
Mt. Bailey

A few orange agoseris were scattered about.
Scarlet gilia
More scarlet gilia
Skyrocket

A thistle that was getting ready to bloom.
Wallflower



Owl’s head clover
Larkspur, an owl’s head clover, and scarlet gilia
Aster or fleabane and an orange agoseris
Coneflower
Hyssop
Butterflies on a cat’s ear lily

Wait that’s not a butterfly.
Fuji Mountain
The post, with an orange top, is up and to the right in front of a tree.
Heather at the rock outcrop.
Big Bunchgrass Meadow and Fuji Mountain
Diamond Peak

Crab spider (probably waiting for that Washington lily to open)
Turkey vulture
Back in the valerian meadows



Not sure what this is going to be either.
FR 877 at FR 1509











Penstemon
Showy phlox
<script async src=”//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js” charset=”utf-8″Paintbrush and stonecrop
Anemone
Iris
Arnica





Looking west toward the Green Mountain Lookout.
Green Mountain Lookout
Mt. Jefferson
Three Fingered Jack
There is at least one pika in this picture.
There is another one in this picture.



Columbine and solomonseal in the talus slope.
Last of the snow along the talus.

Catchfly on the way up.
Lookout remains below the summit.
Foundation remains
Wildflowers at the summit.
NE we could see Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack.
Mt. Jefferson behind Iron Mountain and Cone Peak
Three Fingered Jack
Mt. Washington
Three Sisters
Mt. Bachelor

Maiden Peak (
Mt. Thielsen (
Diamond Peak

Cat’s ear lilies
Oregon sunshine amid buckwheat
Penstemon and paintbrush
A fleabane or aster
Looking down from the lower viewpoint.

Western wallflower
Larkspur
Paintbrush
Cinquefoil
Baneberry
Current
Bleeding heart, trillium and wood violets
Wood violet







North and Middle Sister



Mt. Bachelor
Showy phlox
Washington lilies getting ready to bloom





The Two Girls
Mt. Washington and the Three Sisters
Wolf Rock an Mt. Washington
North Sister
Middle Sister
South Sister
Mt. Jefferson had been overtaken by clouds but Iron Mountain and Cone Peak were still visible.
Buckwheat and paintbrush
Wallflower and cat’s ear lilies
Penstemon and paintbrush
Young tree growing out of an old trunk.
Grouse





Columbine along the decommissioned road.





















Buckwheat
A penstemon
False sunflower
A penstemon
Oregon sunshine
Lupine among others
Cliff beardstounge
Catchfly
Groundsel
blue head gilia
Bleeding heart
Paintbrush
Woodland stars
Larkspur and ballhead waterleaf
Yarrow
Valerian
Cat’s ear lily
Wild rose
Buckwheat in blue head gilia
Thimbleberry
Larkspur, leafy pea, and candy flower
Rhododendron (just around the corner from the outcrop)
Star-flowered solomonseal
Plumed solomonseal
Vanilla leaf
Pussytoes
Beargrass
Trail fork

















Curious newt


Inside out flower
Spotted coralroot
Stripped coralroot
Starflower
Candy sticks
Wild strawberries

Salmon River at Knight County Park








One of the bridges.
Overgrown stream
White crowned sparrow
One of three hummingbirds
Another white crowned sparrow
Checkerbloom
Monkeyflower
Yarrow
Field chickweed
Lupine
Foxglove with a spider web
Clovers
Iris
Self-heal



Look for the head to the right of the tall foxglove stalk.















Lupine
White crowned sparrow
Cape Lookout (
Beach morning glory

Groundcone
Tiger lily

























Obstacle hanging over the trail.







Sturgeon Rock (still with cloud) and Pyramid Rock
Wild iris
Paintbrush and lupine
Daisies
Penstemon






paintbrush and mountain spirea
Beargrass


Columbine
A penstemon
More penstemon
Variety pack
Tiger lily
Golden pea and paintbrush
Another variety pack
Wallflower

Avalanche lilies near the junction.
Sign for the Silver Star Trail.
Silver Star Trail








Sturgeon Rock momentarily out of the clouds.



Phlox
Beargrass







White crowned sparrow







Cat’s ear lily
Rose
Violets
Rock penstemon
Bleeding heart
Candy flower
Lousewort
An aster or fleabane
Backside of the arch.






Marsh marigold
Marsh corydalis




Pyramid Rock from the Tarbell Trail
Black headed grosbeak
Mountain parnassian








Lupine
Beargrass plumes amid the trees
Pussypaws










Iron Mountain





From left to right – Hoodoo, flat topped Hayrick Butte, and Black Butte (behind Cache Mountain).





Dwarf lupine at the viewpoint.

Starting the loop from the viewpoint.
Penstemon and snowbrush









The Three Pyramids with Scar Mountain (
Crescent Mountain (





Mt. Washington joining the show.



Can you see Heather’s hat?
The Husband
Mt. Washington



Maxwell Butte (
Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a quarter to ten.
Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a quarter after ten.
Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a 10:23am.




















Mt. Adams beyond Owl Point












Eden Park Trail



western pasque flowers already going to seed






















Mt. Rainier (sort of)
Mt. Adams





Looking down the scramble route.
Some of the obstacles
First sight of Gorton Creek Falls through the trees.




















































one of the pullouts





















