Category: Mt. Washington Area

Black Crater – 08/29/2026

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date September 1, 2026
No Comments on Black Crater – 08/29/2026

When we were working on our goal of hiking William L. Sullivan’s featured hikes (post) we had a few outings where we didn’t get a view from a viewpoint or summit due to the weather. Now that we’ve completed that goal we are revisiting some of those hikes in an attempt to get those views. One such hike was a 2016 outing to Black Crater in the Three Sisters Wilderness. We had tried several times in the past couple of months to re-hike this trail but either smoke from wildfires or possibly thunderstorms had stymied us. A mostly sunny forecast coupled with a high of just 49 degrees (Fahrenheit) meant it was finally time for a second visit.

Before tackling the climb up Black Crater we thought it would be a good idea to warm up with a short hike at nearby Dee Wright Observatory and the Lava River Trail.

While the plan was to “warm up” it was anything but warm as the cool morning air combined with a stiff breeze. We took advantage of the restrooms then visited the observatory where on a clearer day we would have had views of numerous Cascade peaks. Today however, despite the presence of some blue sky, nearly all of the peaks were hidden.

Black Crater, which is straight ahead, was one of the peaks covered by a cloud. We hoped that the mostly sunny forecast was still in the cards.

Mt. Jefferson through a break in the clouds.

Interpretive signs near the observatory.

Black Butte (post) to the right with Green Ridge (post) behind it.

Viewing holes are located around the observatory to help identify the peaks.

There is also a mountain finder atop the observatory.

List of what we could have been looking at.

After visiting the observatory, we walked to the east where the interpretive Lava River Trail leads into the Yapoah lava flow.

While we had visited the observatory before this was our first time hiking this short loop. The interpretive signs were very informative which more than made up for the lack of mountain views.

Little Belknap Crater (post).

Mt. Jefferson making another brief appearance.

There was no chance of spotting the Three Sisters.

Black Crater was still looking awfully cloudy.

The Dee Wright Observatory on the left.

As we concluded the hike it looked like the clouds might be breaking up over Black Crater.

After a rather chilly warm up hike we drove to the Black Crater Trailhead.

On top of not getting a view from the summit on that visit the 2017 lightning caused Milli Fire burned over the majority of the trail.
Forest at the trailhead before the Milli Fire.

The sign at the trailhead states the summit is 4 miles away however it is really 3.6-miles. Either way the trail gains approximately 2300′.

The trail enters the Three Sisters Wilderness a short distance from the trailhead. In fact the wilderness sign is visible from the trailhead and as I was zooming in for a photo I realized there was a doe next to it.

The hike is about as straight forward as one can be. There are no trail junctions, no creek or river crossings, and no faint sections of trail. The climb is steady but rarely feels steep. There are plenty of views due to the Millie Fire but today the clouds were limiting those.

Mt. Washington hidden by a cloud.

Black Butte

Lupine

Cascade aster

Another aster, not sure which one.

Cloud hovering over Little Belknap and Belknap Craters.

The trail is well maintained.

Looking up toward the summit.

Rabbitbrush goldenweed
Junco

Yarrow

Bleeding heart and northwestern rabbit-tabacco

The fire spared the trees closer to the summit.

Beardtongue

One-sided wintergreen

Black Butte managed to stay out of the clouds for most of the morning.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel

Clouds passing by.

Cable for the former fire lookout.

The final stretch to the summit. There was a cloud passing over when I arrived and I wondered if there would be any views.

It was windy at the summit, but I took a seat on the rocks above the former lookout site hoping for the clouds to pass.

View to the NE into Central Oregon.

The summit of North Sister.

Scott Mountain in the center which we climbed a few weeks ago (post).

I had a snack while I waited but the clouds seemed to be getting worse and it was cold in the wind, so I decided to start back down.

Looking toward Broken Top and the North Sister.

Heading down from the summit.

I detoured to the western end of the summit where another rock outcrop sits.

Little Belknap and Belknap Craters beyond the rock outcrop.

It only took a minute or two to reach the other outcrop, but by the time I had the clouds had begun to finally open up.

Broken Top with Mt. Bachelor (post) behind to the right.

The summit from the second outcrop.

The Three Sisters. The summit of Middle Sister is just visible to the right of North Sister.

The west side of the Three Sisters Wilderness.

Collier Cone (post) below the North and Middle Sisters.

The Husband with Yapoah Crater (post) at the lower left of the frame.

I stuck around for a while as the clouds continued passing by, but when I started losing the view again I headed back.

Dwarf alpinegold

The clouds coming in from the right were quite a bit darker than any had been so far.

Alpine mountain buckwheat

Mountain bluebird

Pussypaw

Fireweed and northwestern rabbit-tobacco.

It felt like it could start raining at any moment.

Beetle

Back at the trailhead.

The hike up Black Crater was 7.2-miles and we did about a mile at Dee Wright Observatory. Cumulative elevation gain was close to 2500′.

The two hikes for the day.

While it wasn’t quite a clear as we had hoped the views were vastly better than they had been on our first visit.

Dee Wright Observatory is a must stop if you are driving the McKenzie Highway and the Lava River Trail would be a great place to bring out of state visitors. The Black Crater hike is also a great hike providing a good workout and excellent views when the conditions are right. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Black Crater

Tags Black Crater, Black Crater Trail, Black Crater Trailhead, Dee Wright Observatory, hiking, Lava River Trail, McKenzie Highway, McKenzie Pass, Oregon, Three Sisters Wilderness

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Hand Lake – 08/01/2026

When we were working on our quest to complete at least a portion of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades” (post) there were several hikes that for one reason or another we did not hike the entire route described in the book. One of those hikes was Hand Lake.

Sullivan’s entry for Hand Lake is a 2.6-mile lollipop loop starting from the Hand Lake Trailhead along Highway 242 (McKenzie Pass). The highlights of the hike are the Hand Lake Shelter at the 0.5-mile mark, a short crossing of a lava field on a portion of the old McKenzie Wagon Road, and Hand Lake. The route of this hike shares a portion of another featured hiked, Benson Lake (the 9.7-mile loop option). When we did that hike we saw the wagon road, the lake and visited the shelter, so we counted that as enough to check off the hike. Today we planned on hiking the remaining portion of the hike and revisiting the sights along the Benson Lake Loop.

The trailhead is a pullout along the east side of the highway across from a hiker symbol.

Interpretive sign at the trailhead about bees.

Yarrow

The trail itself begins just to the NW on the opposite side of the highway.

Wilderness registration box, Central Cascade Wilderness Permit information, and a map.

From the signboard the Hand Lake Cutoff Trail leads into the Mt. Washington Wilderness, and the exits the wilderness, before arriving at the Hand Lake Shelter at the half mile mark.

Entering the wilderness area.

Sickletop lousewort

Goldenrod

Leaving the wilderness area.

Meadow just before the shelter.

Alpine gentians. We planned on checking in on these on our way out knowing that they would be open once sunlight hit them.

The Hand Lake Shelter

At the shelter we had to decide which direction we wanted to hike the loop. In this case we considered the steepness of the trails, what time we thought it would be best to visit the summit of Scott Mountain, and how difficult finding the old Santiam Wagon Road would be. For this loop we knew going clockwise would be less steep and we were familiar with the location of the old Santiam Wagon Road junction with the Hand Lake Trail. It was also the longer route to the summit of Scott Mountain which would allow more time for the sun to move higher overhead creating a better view of the Cascade Mountains to the east. Clockwise it was. We took stock of the trail heading into the meadow at the shelter that would be our return route and continued on the Hand Lake Cutoff Trail to the Hand Lake Trail.

Our return route.

Wildflower near the Hand Lake Trail junction.

Aster

At the junction we turned left onto the Hand Lake Trail and followed it 1.5-miles to the Benson/Tenas Trailhead passing Scott Lake along the way.

Prince’s pine

Lupine

We had to be on the lookout for these little guys most of the day.

Hardhack

The northern end of Scott Lake.

North Sister from Scott Lake.

False hellebore

The Benson/Tenas Trailhead.

Just before the gate we turned right onto the Benson Lake Trail.

The Benson Lake Trail. The post was missing a sign.

The Benson Lake Trail climbs gradually for 1.3-miles to Benson Lake which sits just inside the Mt. Washington Wilderness.

Grouse whortleberry (Vaccinium scoparium) is a variety of huckleberry. The plant has small berries that are some of my favorites.

Pinesap unfurling.

Pinesap further along.

Pinedrops along the trail.

Pinedrops

Beardtongue

The trail entering the Mt. Washington Wilderness.

Benson Lake

Pond near Benson Lake.

I turned down this signed user trail to visit the lakeshore.

The best view from the lake is actually atop the rocks to the right across the lake. We visited that spot when we hiked around the lake on a backpacking trip in 2016 (post).

After visiting Benson Lake, we continued on the loop. The trail continued to gradually climb reaching a junction with the Tenas Lake Trail in just under a mile.

Fireweed

Red-breasted nuthatch making its way down a tree.

Blueberries

We detoured a tenth of a mile down the Tenas Lakes Trail to visit the first, and largest, of the Tenas Lakes.

We returned to the Benson Lake Trail and in another 0.2-miles arrived at the Scott Mountain Trail junction.

Scott Mountain from an unnamed lake/pond.

We stayed right at the junction and followed the Scott Mountain Trail 0.8-miles uphill to yet another junction. This time with the Scotty Way Trail.

Moth

Paintbrush

At this junction we faced a choice, stay on the Scott Mountain Trail and climb 0.6-miles to the summit or stick to the loop and turn right onto the Scotty Way Trail. The skies were too clear to pass up the view atop Scott Mountain, so we began the 320′ climb to the summit.

Arrowleaf groundsel

Subalpine mariposa lily

Thistle

Approaching the summit meadows.

The Three Sisters and The Husband.

Black Crater (post) straight ahead. To the left through the trees is Belknap Crater (post).

Mt. Jefferson with a cloud in front then Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington and Belknap Crater.

Diamond Peak (post) to the south from the summit.

In front of Diamond Peak from left to right are Mt. Ray (post), Fuji Mountain (post), and Waldo Mountain (post).

A tiny glimpse of Mt. Hood above the ridge to the left of Mt. Jefferson (still mostly hidden). Three Fingered Jack with Hoodo (rounded) and Hayrick (flat top) Buttes in front.

Proxy Point in between North and Middle Sister with Little Bother in front of North Sister.

Mt. Washington

Fritillary

Benson Lake from Scott Mountain.

After a nice break at the summit, we headed back down to the Scotty Way Trail. I detoured briefly on the way down to explore the crater area and found another nice view of the Three Sisters.

Small crater near the summit of Scott Mountain.

Orange agoseris

View west of the McKenzie River Valley.

Back on the Scott Mountain Trail.

California tortoiseshell

Mt. Jefferson almost came out as we were descending the Scott Mountain Trail.

On the Scotty Way Trail.

The Scotty Way Trail is steeper than either of the Benson or Scott Mountain Trails and in the next 1.7-miles we lost 720′ of elevation before arriving at the Hand Lake Trail.

Entering the 2010 Scott Mountain Fire scar.

Mt. Washington and Belknap Crater.

Fireweed and pearly everlasting.

Felt-leaf everlasting

The Three Sisters

Coming up to the Hand Lake Trail.

Members of the Scorpions Trail Crew worked on the tread here as well as clearing a few logs between the junction and the Hand Lake Trailhead on 7/30.

We turned right onto the Hand Lake Trail and continued descending.

The trail neared the lava flow which we would eventually be crossing on the old McKenzie Wagon Road.

It was approximately 1.2-miles from the Scotty Way Trail junction to the wagon road which is not signed nor was it currently marked by anything.

The unnaturally flat(ish) surface of the wagon road gives it away.

We turned left onto the old Wagon Road.

It wasn’t the easiest walking, but luckily it was only a tenth of a mile across the lava flow.

The Three Sisters and The Husband from the wagon road.

The end of the lava crossing.

At the far end of the wagon road we turned right along the lava flow.

While not an official trail there was a faint path, however there were also a number of downed trees.

At the end of the lava flow is the lakebed for Hand Lake. The lake’s water level drops each Summer and with the dry year we’ve had there wasn’t a lot of water left in the lake.

Butterfly on pusspaws.

Lupine

We picked up the trail we’d seen that morning in a rocky area and followed it to the shelter.

We stopped to check on the gentians before following the Hand Lake Cutoff Trail back to the trailhead.

My GPS showed 12-miles for the hike although two tenths of that was exploration on Scott Mountain. Total elevation gain was approximately 1400′.

This was a fun hike allowing us to finish Sullivan’s hike in its entirety and also revisit some places we’ve enjoyed in the past. Today’s view from Scott Mountain was also the best one we’d had in our three summits. We did get some sad hiking news later when it was confirmed that the Flag Point Lookout (post) in the Mt. Hood National Forest had been lost to the Grasshopper Fire. This was a sad loss and a reminder to us of why we have been so focused on visiting as many different trails and places as possible before they are lost.

Hopefully there is some relief in the fires soon, but until then stay safe and happy trails!

Flickr: Hand Lake

Tags Benson Lake, Benson Lake Trail, Benson/Tenas Trailhead, Hand Lake, Hand Lake Shelter, Hand Lake Trail, Hand Lake Trailhead, hiking, Mt. Washington Wilderness, Old McKenzie Wagon Road, Oregon, Scott Lake, Scott Mountain, Scott Mountain Trail, Scotty Way Trail, Tenas Lakes, Tenas Lakes Trail

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

McKenzie River Trail – Clear Lake to Carmen Reservoir – 11/22/2025

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date November 24, 2025
No Comments on McKenzie River Trail – Clear Lake to Carmen Reservoir – 11/22/2025

A bluebird day forecast in the mountains on a day off equaled a trip to the northern end of the McKenzie River Trail at the Upper McKenzie River Trailhead for a hike past Clear Lake, Sahalie Falls, Koosah Falls and Carmen Reservoir. While we’d visited each of those sites previously this hike would include two sections of the McKenzie River Trail that we had not hiked before.

We left the Willamette Valley fog behind and arrived at the trailhead a little after 7am and were greeted with clear skies and freezing temperatures.

Two trails leave from this trailhead, the Old Santiam Wagon Road which we’d hiked in 2023 (post) and the McKenzie River Trail. The McKenzie River Trail starts to the right of a large signboard and immediately crosses the bed of Fish Lake Creek which is dry most of the year.

Spring snowmelt fills Fish Lake (post) but the porous lava beneath the lake drains it by Summer.

The trail passed through the forest between Highway 126 and Fish Lake Creek for a mile to a junction with the Clear Lake Trail.

The trail crossed Eno Road at the 0.2-mile mark.

At the junction with McKenzie River Trail turns left and recrosses Fish Lake Creek with the Clear Lake Trail continuing straight allowing for a loop around Clear Lake.

We had decided to stick to the McKenzie River Trail and pass around the eastern side of the lake first and return on western side. The primary reason was that there is a view of several Cascade mountains from the Clear Lake Trail, but with the Sun having just risen it would have been behind the mountains. By saving the views for the return trip the Sun would be almost directly overhead allowing for a better view of the snowy peaks.

The second footbridge over Fish Lake Creek.

It wasn’t long after crossing the footbridge that we got our first views of Clear Lake.

There were dozens of ducks on the lake including buffleheads, common mergansers, and Barrow’s goldeneyes.

The ripples in the lake are the ducks moving away from the annoying hikers.

Barrow’s goldeneye

Common mergansers

The Clear Lake Resort across from the trail.

A half mile from the junction the trail passes Great Spring which is the primary source of Clear Lake and the McKenzie River.

Beyond the spring the trail continued around the lake passing through frosty lava flows and small sections of forest for another 1.8-miles before reaching a junction with the other end of the Clear Lake Trail.

The boat ramp at the resort.

There were quite a few American dippers (ouzels) along the shore of the lake.

Buffleheads

A section of the trail is paved near the Coldwater Cove Campground.

The trail crosses the campground boat ramp.

Looking back across the lake we could see several of the Old Cascades peaking up over the trees.

Crescent Mountain (post) and The Three Pyramids (post)

Another ouzel

The southern end of the Clear Lake Trail.

We stayed on the McKenzie River Trail which crossed FR 770 after 0.4-miles then Highway 126 before arriving at a junction with the Waterfalls Trail 0.7-miles from the Clear Lake Trail junction.

Witch’s butter

FR 770 provides access to the Coldwater Cove Campground.

The trail crossing Highway 126. We were lucky there was not much traffic to deal with on either dash across today.

After crossing the highway the trail joined the McKenzie River.

The junction with the Waterfalls Trail.

We decided to leave the McKenzie River Trail here and take the Waterfalls Trail down to Carmen Reservoir and then return via the McKenzie River Trail. It was a little over a third of a mile from the junction to an overlook above Sahalie Falls.

Sahalie Falls

McKenzie River below Sahalie Falls.

McKenzie River above Sahalie Falls.

A tenth of a mile further down the trail is a second viewpoint with a direct view of the falls.

We continued past this viewpoint another half mile to the top of Koosah Falls.

Ouzel

This unnamed waterfall was off the trail a bit and hard to get a good view of from this side of the river.

View from above Koosah Falls.

There were two viewpoints for Koosah Falls along the trail.

The second viewpoint.

From the second Koosah Falls viewpoint it was another third of a mile to Carmen Reservoir where we turned right on FR 750 for a tenth of a mile to the Carmen Reservoir Trailhead.

The FR 750 bridge over the McKenzie River.

Carmen Reservoir

Walking along FR 750 toward the McKenzie River Trail.

We took a short break on a bench at the trailhead then followed pointers for the McKenzie River Trail.

After a short climb we turned right onto the McKenzie River Trail and in 0.2-miles came to a series of views of Koosah Falls.

Coral fungus

The trail initially climbed gradually from Koosah Falls before steepening as it neared Sahalie Falls.

McKenzie River above Koosah Falls.

The unnamed waterfall.

It was a little tricky to find the right use path that led to this view of the unnamed waterfall and it required scrambling between some wet logs and mossy rocks.

As the trail steepened a use trail forked off to the right which led to a direct view of Sahalie Falls.

Looking back along the use trail. It was a sketchy in spots, especially with how wet everything was.

To get a view of the falls I had to scramble over these rocks.

We continued on past Sahlie Falls to the footbridge over the river and the junction with the Waterfalls Trail.

The McKenzie River from the footbridge.

From the junction we returned to the Clear Lake Trail junction and turned onto that trail to finish the loop around the lake.

Turning onto the Clear Lake Trail.

The Clear Lake Trail crossed the McKenzie River at the outlet of Clear Lake then traversed a forested hillside above the lake for a mile to the Clear Lake Day Use Area.

Clear Lake from the bridge.

Sand Mountain (post) with some snow patches across the lake.

The Sand Mountain lookout tower on the summit to the right.

Mt. Washington across the lake.

The top of Mt. Washington.

The top of North Sister with a bit of Middle Sister to far right.

Picnic shelter at the day use area.

We briefly lost the trail here as there wasn’t any obvious signage near the resort.

Cafe and boat rentals.

We wound up following a pointer for restrooms instead of following the trail along the shore of the lake and had to cut down through the cabins to rejoin the actual trail.

Back on the official Trail.

We followed the Clear Lake trail as it bowed out and around the Ikenick Creek arm of Clear Lake.

More Barrow’s goldeneyes.

Footbridge over Ikenick Creek.

After crossing Ikenick Creek the trail returned to Clear Lake and arrived at a bench with a view across the lake of the Three Sisters.

Scott Mountain (post) across the lake.

Tree trunk in Clear Lake.

The Three Sisters

North, Middle, and South Sister

After taking in the view of the Three Sisters we completed the loop and returned to the car stopping often along the way to take photos of the numerous mushrooms that lined the trail.

While the temperatures had risen into the 40’s by the time we got back to the trailhead there was still plenty of ice and frost left on the ground.

The GPS put our hike at 11.7-miles with approximately 1000′ of cumulative elevation gain. For shorter hikes either of the loops that we did during this outing are worthy options.

This was a great hike with a lot of variety. Lakes, waterfalls, mountain views, lava fields, mossy green forest and some wildlife. The lack of leaves on the bushes and trees around the lake provided a little better viewing experience than we’d had on our first visit to Clear Lake and the cold temperatures reduced the crowds around the waterfalls. With the additional sections of the McKenzie River Trail completed we now only have about 1.5 of the 26.5-mile trail left to hike. Happy Trails!

Flickr: McKenzie River Trail – Clear Lake to Carmen Res.

Tags Barrow's Goldeneye, Carmen Reservoir, Carmen Reservoir Trailhead, Clear Lake, Clear Lake Day Use Area, Clear Lake Trail, Coldwater Cove Campground, Great Spring, hiking, Koosah Falls, McKenzie River Trail, Oregon, Sahalie Falls, Upper McKenzie River Trailhead

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Patjens Lakes – 07/19/2025

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 21, 2025
2 Comments on Patjens Lakes – 07/19/2025

Heather was able to join me for the last hike of my July vacation. I chose the Patjens Lake Loop in the Mount Washington Wilderness to wrap up the five hikes. It seemed fitting since we had hiked on Mt. Hood (post) to kick off my vacation then I had visited Mt. Jefferson area (post), the Three Sisters area (post), and the Three Fingered Jack area (post). That left Mt. Washington as the only major Oregon Cascade Mountain north of the Three Sisters I hadn’t hiked near during the week.

The Patjens Lakes loop was my pick for a couple of reasons. First, I wanted a relatively easy hike following some longer, more challenging hikes during the week. and at 7 to 8 miles with just a little over 600′ or so of elevation gain this loop fit the bill. The second reason was it had been almost 13 years since we’d done the loop (post).

We parked at the Patjens Lakes Trailhead and after filling out a self-issued wilderness permit set off on the trail.

The majority of the route passes through the 2011 Shadow Lake Fire scar. In the 13 years since our first visit many of the burned trees have fallen and some new trees have begun replacing them. As a result, the views were much more open.

Mt. Washington beyond Big Lake.

Patjens Butte

Pearly everlasting

Fireweed

The trail makes a brief descent to pass around an unnamed lake and long meadow.

At the 0.3-mile mark the loop begins.

Scarlet gilia and milk kelloggia

Closer look at the milk kelloggia.

The unnamed lake below Patjens Butte.

Goldenrod, scarlet gilia, and penstemon

Tent caterpillars

Thistle

Cardwell’s penstemon

The long meadow on the left.

There were a bunch of birds near the meadow including northern flickers, lazuli buntings, juncos and sparrows.

A lazuli bunting in the foreground and a northern flicker further down the log.

Northern flicker

Lazuli bunting

Sparrow

Beyond the meadow the trail climbed to a saddle between Peak 5026 and Peak 5164.

Aster

Twinberry

Ragwort

Butterfly on lupine.

Sickle top lousewort

Sub-alpine fleabane

Scouler’s bluebells

Twinflower

Chipping sparrow with a snack.

Sand Mountain (post)

Maxwell Butte (post), the top of Mt. Jefferson, Hoodoo Butte, and Hayrick Butte.

Strawberries

Huckleberries

It had been a good year for beargrass blooms, but they had all gone to seed.

Woodland beardtongue

The top of Mt. Jefferson.

The only Washington lily left that was still kind of in bloom.

Entering the Mt. Washington Wilderness.

Shortly after entering the wilderness the trail arrived at the saddle between the peaks where it began a mile long descent. It was on this descent that the difference in views was most evident.

The Three Sisters, The Husband, and Scott Mountain (post).

The Three Sisters from the trail in 2012.

Mt. Washington, Belknap Crater (post), the Three Sisters, and The Husband.

We could even see Diamond Peak (post) over the right shoulder of Scott Mountain.

Diamond Peak

Wildflowers along the hillside.

Lupine and scarlet gilia

The trail entered a section of forest that escaped the Shadow Lake Fire.

Moth on vanilla leaf.

Scarlet gilia

White-veined wintergreen and prince’s pine

Foam flower

Shortly after the trail emerged from the unburnt forest we arrived at what some, ourselves included, consider the first of the Patjens Lakes on the right.

Whether or not this first lake counts as a “Patjens” lake is debatable, but we like to include it as a fourth member of the group.

Hardhack

The trail entered another section of unburned forest where we detoured down a short trail to the next Patjens Lake.

This lake escaped the 2011 fire leaving it the only lake surrounded by green trees.

Bufflehead family

Beyond the second lake the trail reentered the fire scar where it would stay for the remainder of the hike. A third of a mile from the second lake we arrived at the third lake where we left the trail in order to loop around it.

Peak 5164 on the left and Patjens Butte on the right.

Almost synchronized ducks.

Cinquefoil

Duck family

Tree frog

We hadn’t looped around this lake in 2012 but wanted to see what the view of Mt. Washington was like this time.

There was a rough user trail to follow at times.

Field crescent

Form the northern end of the lake we headed cross country to the final Patjens Lake.

Aster

The fourth Patjens Lake.

On our first trip it was this lake that we looped around.

This time we headed along the western end of the lake to return to the official trail.

Dragonflies

Peak 5164 and Patjens Butte

The Patjens Lake Loop just ahead.

We turned left onto the trail and gradually climbed for a mile and a half to a view of Big Lake.

Western sulphur

Looking back after leaving the Mt. Washington Wilderness.

Hoodoo Butte, Hayrick Butte, and Three Fingered Jack

Hoodoo and Hayrick Buttes across Big Lake.

For the next 0.6-miles the trail followed the hillside above Big Lake providing nice views across the lake and back to Mt. Washington.

Big Lake Youth Camp on the eastern side of the lake.

Swallow

Rosy spirea

Stellar’s jay

Thimbleberry

This right-hand fork leads down to the Big Lake Campground. We stayed left.

Nice view of Mt. Washington.

The view in 2012.

The ridge on the left of Mt. Washington is the North Ridge (post) which is used by mountain climbers.

From the final viewpoint the trail turned away from the lake and descended to the junction where the loop had started.

Heading west toward Sand Mountain.

We turned right after completing the loop and returned to our car.

One last look back.

Lupine

Today’s hike came in at 7.4 miles with a little over 600′ of elevation gain.

Despite the area around Big Lake being full of people we saw very few people on the hike itself. Mosquitos were a bit of a nuisance at times, particularly for Heather who assisted me by keeping them occupied. If you don’t care about wildflowers Autumn would probably be a great time to visit. The distance between the lakes and the trailhead and lack of steep climbs makes this a good option for younger hikers/backpackers too. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Patjens Lakes

Tags Big Lake, hiking, Mt. Washington Wilderness, Oregon, Patjens Lakes, Patjens Lakes Trail, Patjens Lakes Trailhead, Shadow Lake Fire

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Santiam Wagon Road – McKenzie River TH to Sand Mountain – 07/08/2023

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date July 10, 2023
6 Comments on Santiam Wagon Road – McKenzie River TH to Sand Mountain – 07/08/2023

From 1865 to 1939 the Santiam Wagon Road served as the primary means of transportation from the Willamette Valley to Central Oregon. Beginning in Lebanon the nearly 400-mile route crossed the central Cascade Mountains at Santiam Pass. Sections of the road have been preserved and now serve as trails.

We’d previously hiked sections at House Rock (post), Tombstone Pass (post), Fish Lake (post), Sand Mountain (post), and Whychus Canyon Preserve (post). For our previous hike to Sand Mountain we had started near Big Lake and followed the wagon road West for almost three miles to forest road 2690-810 which leads to Sand Mountain.

For this visit we began to the West of Sand Mountain at the McKenzie River Trailhead.

The 26.5-mile long McKenzie River Trail shares this trailhead with the Sanitam Wagon Road.

We set off on the wagon road through an old lava flow. The flow was old enough that the forest had had time to mature.

Prince’s pine

Candystick

Twinflower

Big uprooted tree.

The road climbed gradually from the trailhead for three miles to a crossing of Forest Road 2676.

A carpet of vanilla leaf leaves.

FR 2676

We jogged left on FR 2676 for approximately 50′ to a gate and the continuation of the Santiam Wagon Road.
Despite the “Closed to all Motor Vehicles” sign it was obvious, and unfortunately not surprising, that some people feel they have a right to ignore anything they disagree with.

The road continued its gradual climb but the surface now was much sandier which required a bit more effort. The forest also changed from large fir trees to smaller lodgepole pine and snowbrush.
More candysticks

The few sections that weren’t sandy consisted of lava rock.

Dwarf lupine

Pussy paws

Pygmy short-horned lizard next to a deer print.

Sand Mountain on the right.

Another pygmy short-horned lizard

Snowbrush lining the road with the northern end of Sand Mountain ahead.

Butterflies, including this hoary comma, and other pollinators love the snowbrush.

Hoary comma

Just over a mile and a half beyond FR 2676 we passed another gate at a junction with FR 890. Here the road is open to motorized vehicles as part of a large Santiam Pass OHV Trails network. The large amount of trails/roads open to these types of vehicles in the area made their usage on the closed section of the Santiam Wagon Road even more annoying.

We followed this portion of the road for 0.4-miles to the gated road to Sand Mountain.
Penstemon

The Moon over Sand Mountain.

Mt. Washington

Sign and gate at the road to Sand Mountain.

We followed this road uphill for a mile and a half to a parking area between Sand Mountains two craters. As we climbed the surrounding peaks came into view.

Buckwheat

More snowbrush

California tortoiseshell

The Sand Mountain Lookout from below.

Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

Mt. Washington and the Three Sister

Western swallowtail

The Three Pyramids(post), Scar Mountain & Trappers Butte(post), and Coffin & Bachelor Mountains (post).

Echo Mountain & North Peak to the left and Crescent Mountain(post) to the right.

Browder Ridge (post) to the center-left, Iron Mountain center, and South Peak, Cone Peak, Echo Mountain & North Peak to the right.

Lorquin’s admiral

From the parking area we followed the lined trail uphill for 0.4-miles to the staffed Sand Mountain Lookout.

Mt. Washington (post), Belknap Crater (post), and the Three Sisters.

Maxwell Butte (post), Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack.

Just a bit of snow left on the North facing slope.

Western pasque flower

It’s very faint but the top of Mt. Hood was visible over the lower left shoulder of Maxwell butte.

Penstemon

Belknap Crater, the Three Sisters, The Husband, Scott Mountain (post), and Diamond Peak (post) in the distance.

Zoom of Diamond Peak. The round looking hump in front is Fuji Moutain (post).

Hoodoo and Hayrick Buttes, Black Butte (post), and Cache Mountain.

There were quite a few bumblebees at the summit interested in the rocks in this area.

This Edith’s checkerspot joined the bees for a moment.

We stopped to talk to the current staffer who said it was the nicest morning he’d seen in almost a week. The amount of smoke/haze was indeed much less than we’d experience on the 4th at Rocky Top (post). Before continuing on we confirmed with him that the loop around the crater was still open to hiking and he said it was and also suggested that we take the closed road back to the parking area instead of looping all the way around back to the lookout. His reasoning was that the last climb up to the lookout was a bit of a scramble. On our previous visit we had actually gone down that section as we had done the loop counterclockwise. We planned on a clockwise loop this time so we thanked him and kept the road return open as an option.
Viewpoint below the lookout.

The lookout from the viewpoint.

Not sure if this is an aster or a fleabane.

The trail getting ready to drop down to a saddle. The peaks from right to left are: Browder Ridge, Twin Buttes, Latiwi Mountain, Wildcat Moutain, Tidbits Mountain (post), Bunchgrass Mountain, and Carpenter Mountain (post) followed by an unidentified ridge on the left.

We were a little surprised to find these broomrape hiding in this silverleaf phacelia.

Drummond’s anemone

Look into the crater.

A couple of penstemon blossoms with the Three Sisters in the background.

The colors around the crater add to the scenery.

Pyrola of some sort.

Starting the steep climb back toward the lookout.

View from the roadbed. We opted to do as the lookout staffer suggested and follow the road back down toward the parking area instead of back up to the lookout.

There was one good sized snow drift left encroaching on the road.

The forecast had said there was a slight chance of showers starting at Noon with another slight chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon beginning at 2pm. Aside from some clouds to the over Central Oregon to the East and one or two strays over Mt. Washington the sky remained was still clear as we headed back.
This little cloud wasn’t much of a threat.

If anything the views had improved now that Sun was more directly overhead.

Not long after we’d started back down the road from the parking area we spotted another hiker on her way up. It would be the only other hiker we’d see on the roads/trails all day and it turned out to be one of the strangest coincidences we’ve ever experienced. On the drive to the trailhead that morning we were having a discussion about how often we wind up doing a hike just days before or after we see one of the other hikers we follow doing the same hike. There have also been numerous times where we find out after a hike or trip that we were in the same area or even the same trails at the same time but somehow missed each other. The only person we have run into more than once is Cheryl Hill (Just Peachy), once during a 2015 hike in Jefferson Park (post) and the other near Table Lake in 2018 (post). After the whole conversation that morning we were pleasantly surprised to find it was again Cheryl. This was her first visit to this lookout and she mentioned that it would be her 91st. She is currently working on visiting all of the standing lookouts in Oregon a project that we find very interesting. We had a nice conversation then headed our respective directions.

On the way back there were somehow even more butterflies vising the snowbrush.
A checkerspot

A hairstreak

Three Fingered Jack and Hoodoo Butte

Three Fingered Jack. Note the climbers trail on the slope to the right.

Ash in the basin below Sand Mountain.

Pussy paws

Female western tanager

Moth

Snake in the trail.

The snake retreated to a nearby log when we approached.

Back in the forest.

This moth blended with the nearby fungus.

I had contemplated hiking the McKenzie River Trail down to Clear Lake (post) prior to returning to the car but that was before I knew how far our hike to Sand Mountain was going to be. The hike turned out to be 14.7 miles with 2500′ of mostly gradual elevation gain.

We have this section of the McKenzie River Trail on our to-do list so we decided to wait until then and retuned to the car to prepare for the drive home.

Although it was a little longer hike than we’d planned it was a good hike and not particularly difficult. The location of the lookout between the High Cascades and Old Cascades provides excellent views and the crater is an interesting feature. Add in the history of the Santiam Wagon Road with the solitude we experienced and you’ve got a really nice day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Santiam Wagon Road to Sand Mountain

Tags cascade mountains, hiking, Oregon, Pygmy short-horned lizard, Sand Mountain, Sand Mountain Lookout, Santiam Wagon Road, Upper McKenzie River Trailhead

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Mount Washington North Ridge – 10/15/2022

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date October 17, 2022
4 Comments on Mount Washington North Ridge – 10/15/2022

Our lack of rain unfortunately continued for another week allowing the numerous fires in Oregon and Washington to remain active. To top it off a warm, dry East wind arrived in time for the weekend creating a red flag warning for high fire danger and blowing the smoke from the current fires into Western Oregon. The combination of the smoke and unseasonably high temperatures had me searching for a suitable hike. My Plan A, B, and C hikes were all forecast to be in the smoke (and warmer than I’d prefer in October) then I remembered seeing that Hike Oregon had gone up Mount Washington’s North Ridge back in August using a climbers trail off of the Pacific Crest Trail. I had been interested in that trail ever since hearing about it during the Chemeketans Route Finding course we’d taken and then later passing it on our hike to Mount Washington Meadows in 2017 (post). A quick of check of the forecast there showed clear (but breezy) skies and a high below 60 at the mountain, I was sold.

Just as we had done in 2017 I parked at the Pacific Crest Trailhead at Big Lake which at this time does not require a Cascade Wilderness Permit for day-use (one is required for overnight stays).

I set off South on the PCT shortly before sunrise and followed it for three miles to a cairn marking the obvious climbers trail.
Mount Washington from the Mt. Washington Wilderness boundary just a few hundred feet from the trailhead.

Three Fingered Jack to the North from the PCT.

From left to right – Sand Mountain (post), Hoodoo Butte, and Hayrick Butte.

Mount Washington

Sunrise on Hoodoo Butte.

Sunlight hitting the spire of Mount Washington.

Hayrick Butte and Three Fingered Jack at sunrise.

Big Lake, Hoodoo, Hayrick Butte, and Three Fingered Jack.

Just over two miles from the trailhead I passed a sign for the non-maintained use trail from the private Big Lake Youth Camp.

Shortly before reaching the climbers trail the PCT left the 2011 Shadow Lake Fire scar.

The cairn and climbers trail from the PCT.

I turned left onto this trail which was fairly easy to follow through the trees.
Huckleberry leaves turning color.

There were a few logs to navigate and keeping an eye on the tread was helpful.

The trail climbed moderately at first then steepened as it went, with occasional flatter sections before reaching the ridge.

Maxwell Butte (post) behind Hoodoo and Hayrick Butte.

Mount Washington

I stopped here for a moment to admire a raptor that was hovering high above the ridge (small black dot in the middle of the photo).

The only movement that I could see was when it tilted its tail feathers which would catch the sunlight.

First view of Mt. Jefferson behind Three Fingered Jack.

Coming up on the ridge.

Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and a lot of smoke to the North.

Cache Mountain and Black Butte (post) to the NE.

Approximately 1.5 miles from the PCT the climbers trail turned North along the ridge toward Mount Washington.
View along the ridge to Mount Washington.

That East wind was really noticeable as I made my way along the open ridge crest.

I didn’t have much trouble following the trail for the first three-quarters of mile up the ridge. It was typical Cascade volcanic rock which isn’t the most fun rock to hike through but the views were great.
Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson to the left. Green Ridge (post) across the center, and Cache Mountain & Black Butte to the right.

Big Lake came into view as I climbed.

One of the steeper sections I went up. The spire is poking up on the right.

Mount Washington’s shadow.

View back down the ridge.

I was hoping to get up and over these rocks where the map showed a more level bench but I wound up reaching a chute where I was unsure of the correct route. The further up I’d gone the more braided the trail became and I may have been too far left. A climber had passed me way back on the PCT but if I had been able to watch him go up here I may have found a better route.

The chute that turned me back. It’s a bit hidden by the rocks in the foreground but there was no way across that I would have been comfortable with and scrambling up looked way too sketchy for my taste (especially w/o a helmet).

I sat down here and took a brief break to catch my breath and have a snack. I was just over 7100′ in elevation and had been feeling that on the climb up.
My shadow on the left from my break spot.

This was the place I’d come up.

Zoom of Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson

With all the smoke I hadn’t noticed Coffin (flat top) and Bachelor Mountains (post) beyond Hoodoo, Hayrick, and Maxwell Buttes.

After catching my breath I started carefully down, pausing often to admire the view.
The Moon overhead to the West.

Patjens Lakes (post) in the forest below.

Lookout tower on Black Butte.

Unfortunate that my timing once again put the Sun directly in line with my view.

I passed three more hikers heading up the ridge on my way down and at one point wound up following a wrong trail too low on the ridge and had to scramble back up to the correct one.
Using a tree to try and get a better view.

A framed Mt. Jefferson.

Sometimes it’s the little things, like these bent trees that I really appreciate on a hike.

This mushroom casting a shadow was another one.

When I got back to the PCT I turned right and hiked the three miles back to the trailhead.

Looking back at Mount Washington from the PCT.

Three Fingered Jack

Hoodoo and Hayrick Buttes behind Big Lake.

Huckleberry bushes and ferns adding some Fall colors.

The best Fall colors were near the trailhead.

The trailhead from the wilderness boundary sign.

This hike came to 10.7 miles with a little over 2700′ of elevation gain. In total I saw 7 hunters, 4 climbers, and two fellow hikers, not bad for a sunny Saturday. It might not be one for those uncomfortable with heights or climbing/descending loose volcanic rock (for those reasons it was a good choice since Heather is still sidelined) but if you don’t mind those things this would be a worthwhile outing.

When I got back to Salem around 2pm it was 90 degrees, in mid-October! The good news is that the high pressure system causing the warm, dry weather is supposed to break up this week with rain to follow. Hopefully it will be enough to put an end to the fires. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mount Washington North Ridge

Tags Big Lake, climbers trail, Hike Oregon, hiking, Mount Washington, Mount Washington Climbers Trail, Mount Washington North Ridge, Mount Washington Wilderness, Mt. Washington, Oregon, Pacific Crest at Big Lake Trailhead, Pacific Crest Trail, PCT

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Sand Mountain – 6/23/2019

For our second trip this year we had planned on heading to the North Fork Umatilla Wilderness and then to the John Day area for a couple of days but the week before our trip our 16 year old cat Buddy wasn’t doing well. After a couple of visits to the vets (and having nearly a pound of fluid removed from his lungs) he was placed on several medications. He’s doing much better now (he is currently on my lap helping me write this entry) but we didn’t want to leave him so soon so we decided to stay home and do a series of day hikes instead.
20170908_165356

Not only was this a fairly last minute change of plans but the forecast for the week was all over the place concerning chances of precipitation and the amount of clouds vs sun. We decided on a handful of potential hikes then checked the forecast for each one trying to come up with an optimal schedule. The process led us to choosing Sand Mountain for our second hike (Vista Ridge and Owl Point (post) being the first).

Sand Mountain is located near Santiam Pass in the Cascade Mountain and is a geologic study area. The U.S. Forest Service and the Sand Mountain Society seasonally staff the Sand Mountain Lookout in part to keep off highway vehicles from damaging the fragile area. Off trail travel off any kind is banned in the study area, but as we were shown by one of the Rangers in the lookout all the signs and barriers in the world can’t stop some morons from doing whatever it is they want to do as there were several tracks visible in the volcanic soil where OHVs or snow moblies had torn things up but I digress.

We chose to follow William L. Sullivan’s suggestion in his “100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” guidebook (hike #129 in the 4th edition) by parking at the intersection of FR 810 and Big Lake Road.

To get here turn south off of Highway 20 toward the Hoodoo Ski Area and follow Big Lake Road for 3.1 miles. FR 810 is open to vehicles which allows one to park 2.9 miles closer to Sand Mountain, but why drive on a rough 15mph dirt road if you don’t have to? Additionally FR 810 follows the route of the Santiam Wagon Road which connected the Willamette Valley to Central Oregon and was used from 1865 to 1939. The 400 mile long route is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

It was a pleasant walk with a few scattered flowers along the way.
Lupine

Beargrass plumes amid the trees

Pussypaws

At the two and a half mile mark we came to a somewhat confusing junction.

There were snow mobile signs here, one of which had a pointer for Sand Mountain.

We turned left here following the pointer.

After about a third of a mile we realized that we were on the wrong side of Sand Mountain so we pulled up the map and compared it with GPS to confirm our suspicions of being on the wrong track. We were indeed so we turned around, but not before getting a decent view of the Sand Mountain Lookout which appeared to be in a bit of a cloud.

We turned left after getting back to the junction and continued on the Santiam Wagon Road another .4 miles to a sign for the Sand Mountain Special Interest Area. This would be the starting point for the shorter hike option.

Here we turned left again passing a gate and several notices regarding the prohibited activities in the area.

The road bed passed by a dark bed of ash as it began climbing up Sand Mountain.

We were seeing a bit of blue sky overhead as we climbed around and up the west side of the cinder cone but the only cloud free mountain we could make out was Iron Mountain (post).

Iron Mountain

After a mile and a half we arrived at the old trailhead, now a large parking area for the Forest Service and volunteers who staff the lookout.

We headed up the trail which again had several notices stating foot traffic only and reminders to stay on the marked trail.

From this trail we could see Hoodoo, Hayrick Butte, and Black Butte (post)along with the blue waters of Big Lake.
From left to right – Hoodoo, flat topped Hayrick Butte, and Black Butte (behind Cache Mountain).

There was just a bit of snow left over on the trail and a few western pasque flowers were starting to bloom and a western toad was out and about.

We arrived at the base of the lookout tower after climbing for about a third of a mile.

A Forest Service Ranger came out to greet us and give us an informative lesson on Sand Mountain and the surrounding geologic area. Sand Mountain is the largest in a series of 23 cinder cones formed along a N-S fissure which also includes 42 distinctive vents and over three quarters of a cubic mile of lava. She informed us that the snow melt from Sand Mountain seeps through the cinder and ash into a large aquifer where after approximately 2 years it makes its way into Clear Lake via the Great Springs and then down the McKenzie River. (post)

We were also informed that Sand Mountain is home to pygmy short-horned lizards but the ranger wasn’t sure that we would see any given the cloudy conditions and chilly breeze. She let us know that we could follow a path down to a viewpoint on the rim of the northern crater and that we were also allowed to hike around the rim if we wanted but she did mention that the climb up the northern end was somewhat steep. We thanked her for the information and headed down to the viewpoint.

20190623_085411 Dwarf lupine at the viewpoint.

The clouds appeared to be breaking up to the west over the Old Cascades.

The same didn’t appear to be true to the SE though where the snowy Cascade Mountains were still squarely behind the clouds.

We opted to go around the rim in a counter-clockwise rotation. That way we would be hiking directly toward the Cascades as we looped around in hopes that they might yet clear up.
Starting the loop from the viewpoint.

There really wasn’t any visible tread to speak of on the side of the rim below the lookout and we briefly wondered if we had done something wrong. We stepped as lightly as possible and avoided the patches of vegetation along the way.

Penstemon and snowbrush

We eventually made it to what appeared to be an old road bed where the path became a bit clearer.

The hike around the crater was very interesting. A surprising amount of wildflowers were blooming in the rocks and the views down into the crater were impressive.

20190623_090751

20190623_090846

As we rounded the crater there was a nice view across to the lookout.

About this time the Old Cascades had finally shaken off their cloud cover allowing us to identify some additional features.
The Three Pyramids with Scar Mountain (post) to the far right.

Crescent Mountain (post)

Echo Mountain and North Peak

As we continued toward the Cascades things began looking up that way as well.

We paused when we were directly across the crater from the lookout to watch the Three Sisters become nearly cloud free.

Belknap Crater (post), the Three Sisters, and the Husband.

I pushed on heading steeply uphill now hoping to get a view of Mt. Washington as well. As I was climbing I thought I saw another toad, but it turned out to be on of the pygmy short-horned lizards the ranger had told us about.

Mt. Washington joining the show.

Another short but steep section of climbing brought me up to an even better view which now also included Big Lake and to a second lizard.

I waited with the lizard for Heather who had stopped at the first lizard.
Can you see Heather’s hat?

We hung out with our new lizard friend while we watched the mountains uncover further.

The Husband

Mt. Washington

Scott Mountain (post) and a snowy Maiden Peak (post) in the distance.

The only one that wasn’t playing nice was Three Fingered Jack to the NE.

Near the viewpoint area below the lookout we spotted our third lizard.

Interestingly they all seemed to have slightly different coloration but each blended very well with their surroundings.

From the viewpoint we could now also see part of Mt. Jefferson, but like Three Fingered Jack it was still partly obscured by clouds.

Maxwell Butte (post) in front of Mt. Jefferson.

We headed back down Sand Mountain hoping that as we did so the other peaks might come out.
Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a quarter to ten.

Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a quarter after ten.

Looking toward Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack at a 10:23am.

As we wound our way down we ended up heading directly toward Mt. Washington and the Three Sisters. Each of the Three Sisters seemed to be working on small lenticular clouds.

We returned the Santiam Wagon Road and headed back. On the return trip we spotted a few butterflies, a golden-mantled ground squirrel and some orange agoseris which we had somehow missed on our way in.

I also briefly detoured to check out a beargrass patch along some of the official OHV trails.

With our .6 mile detour up the snowmobile track we wound up with an 11.3 mile hike, another 5.8 of which could have been removed by driving up FR 810.

We took the long way back to Salem opting to follow Highway 20 over Tombstone Pass to stop at the Rooster Rock Trailhead.

This was less of a hike and more of a quest for a picture of a Menagerie Wilderness sign. We had hiked to Rooster Rock in 2016 (post) from a different trailhead but there had been no wilderness sign on that route. The shorter but steeper Rooster Rock Trail enters the Menagerie Wilderness less than a quarter mile from the trailhead and before the trail starts its climb so I hopped out of the car and hustled up the trail to see if there was a sign along this path.

There was part of a sign at least at the wilderness boundary which was better than nothing.

I did do a quick search in the immediate vicinity hoping to locate the other half but was unable to. Satisfied with the outcome I returned to Heather and the car and we headed home to Buddy (and Hazel our other kitty). Happy Trails!

Flickr: Sand Mountainm

Tags Big Lake, Clear Lake, hiking, Hoodoo, Mt. Washington, old santiam wagon road, Oregon, Pygmy short horned lizard, Sand Mountain, Sand Mountain Lookout, santiam pass, Santiam Wagon Road, Three Sisters, Western Toad

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Mount Washington Meadows

One week after returning from our Northern California trip we found ourselves headed to Bend to drop off some furniture to our Son who had recently moved. It wasn’t going to be a long visit due to his having to work so after a quick tour of his new apartment we were back on our way home.

Our plan was to stop for a hike on the way home along the Pacific Crest Trail near Santiam Pass south to Mount Washington Meadows. We had left Salem at 5am so it would still be fairly early when we hiked. Just after 8:30 we pulled into the PCT trailhead near Big Lake.

We headed south on the PCT which quickly entered the Mt. Washington Wilderness amid trees burned in the 2011 Shadow Lake Fire.

The first two or so miles passed through the burn where despite most of the trees being dead, there was plenty of green and other colors present.

2017-08-05 13.36.29

2017-08-05 13.37.22

2017-08-05 08.56.33

2017-08-05 08.55.45

The lack of living trees did allow for some views of both Mt. Washington ahead and Three Fingered Jack to the north beyond Big Lake, the Hoodoo Ski Area and the flat topped Hayrick Butte.

We could also see two small buttes just to the SW of Big Lake which we had hiked around in 2012 when we visited the Patjens Lakes.

That hike was also done during the first week of August, but less than a year removed from the Shadow Lake Fire. It was interesting to see how the forest was recovering with the passing of several more years.

Patjens Lake Trail – August 2012

Pacific Crest Trail – August 2017

A wider variety of plants including various berries were present now.

We left the burn area where we were able to see what the forest will look like again eventually.

We passed several small meadows and lots of wildflowers as we went.

We had been gradually climbing and when a break in the trees allowed us a view to the north where we spotted Mt. Jefferson over the shoulder of Three Fingered Jack.

It was a bittersweet view as it reminded us that the Whitewater Fire was burning on the west side of Mt. Jefferson and had already burned over portions of several trails leading to Jefferson Park.

There was no real visible smoke but we knew that it was there and those trails would look a lot like what we’d passed through earlier in the Shadow Fire area.

When the PCT began to curve around a ridge to the left the Spire of Mt. Washington came into view.

An open hillside then opened up views to the south were several other familiar peaks were visible.

2017-08-05 10.47.55_stitch

These included the North and Middle Sister, Belknap Crater, the Husband, Diamond Peak, and Scott Mountain.

North & Middle Sister with Belknap Crater

Scott Mountain

As we continued we passed through some increasingly impressive meadows until reaching a large lupine filled meadow below Mt. Washington.

Mt. Washington rose above the meadow where we were able to get a great look at the eroded volcano.

Lupine wasn’t the only thing in abundance in the meadow. There was also a large number of tortoiseshell butterflies who seemed to be overly attracted to me.

2017-08-05 11.01.51

2017-08-05 11.03.23

2017-08-05 11.03.30

We continued through the meadow where we found a nice display of cat’s ear lilies still in bloom amid the lupine.

At this point we’d gone a little over 5.5 miles, but the level grade of the PCT and the great scenery so far enticed us to continue a little further to see what else the area had to offer. We decided to follow the PCT until it began to lose elevation as it crossed a valley between Mt. Washington and Belknap Crater. We soon found ourselves in another area affected by fire.

We ended our hike as the PCT bent around a ridge end where it would begin the 400′ elevation loss before climbing up to the shoulder of Belknap Crater which was visible across the valley.

From this vantage point we could also make out Little Belknap Crater.

After a short break we headed back through the meadows and returned to our car.

The 12.4 mile round trip had proved to be a lot more entertaining than we’d expected. We hadn’t really known what to expect having selected the hike from the back of our guidebook in the additional hikes section, but it had been a thoroughly enjoyable outing. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mount Washington Meadows

Tags Belknap Crater, Big Lake, California Tortoiseshell Butterfly, hiking, lupine, Mount Washington, Mt. Washington Area, Mt. Washington Meadows, Mt. Washington Wilderness, Oregon, Pacific Crest Trail, Patjens Lakes, PCT

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Blue Lake

On Father’s Day we were joined by our Son, Dominique, on a jaunt to Blue Lake before heading home. Blue Lake is located south of Highway 20, just east of Santiam Pass. Much of the lake is privately owned but the Elliott Corbett Memorial State Park occupies the western end of the lake.

This area burned in the 2003 B & B Complex Fire and we began our hike at a fire interpretive kiosk in a large paved sno-park lot.

Starting here meant a road walk of 2.5 miles before reaching an actual trail but the description in Matt Reeder’s “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Reagion” (we highly recommend this guidebook) called the final stretch of road “narrow, brushy, steep, rocky and subject to occasional washouts that turn the road into a series of deep gullies”. Given that the hike would still only be between 7 and 8 miles (and an extra 700′ of elevation gain) by starting here we felt it was worth avoiding any more ugly roads for the weekend.

We walked through the parking area, which had a nice view of Mt. Washington, to FR 2076.

We followed this road downhill. It was a beautiful morning and the view of Mt. Washington was spectacular.

The summits of the North and Middle Sister also made a brief appearance.

After .7 miles we came to a junction with Road 200 which had a sign warning it wasn’t suitable for trailers. We got ourselves confused here due to not re-reading Matt’s description but instead looking at the topographic image in the entry that showed the lake and trail but not the entire road walk. We should have taken Road 200 here but where the map picked up in the book the track was no longer on Road 200 so we mistakenly thought we needed to stay on FR 2076.

FR 2076 was in fairly good shape and was certainly not steep. It was traversing a hillside south toward Mt. Washington.

After almost a half mile we knew something was amiss. Looking at the GPS showed we were indeed heading for a lake but it was Island Lake dead ahead not Blue Lake. We pulled the book out and read the directions and realized our mistake. We backtracked to Road 200 and once again headed downhill.

Road 200 was not great, and maybe the previous days short but horrific section of Forest Road 2630 in the Ochocos unduly influenced us, but most high clearance vehicles would probably be fine. Although, meeting a vehicle going the other way would be tricky as there weren’t many wide spots.

Walking the road had its advantages though. In addition to the mountain views were wildflowers including a surprising group of rhododendron.

The rhododendron were upstaged by a nice buck with velvet antlers which Dominique spotted.

We took our second wrong turn 1.5 miles down Road 200 when we forked right on Road 200 when we should have stayed straight at what appeared to be a pile of rocks. We’d only gone a tenth of a mile when we caught this one and headed back to the rocks to find a road continuing on the other side. Another .4 miles brought us to a parking turnaround. Here we ignored an obvious trail straight up a hill and took a faint path to the left.

This path began to climb up a ridge to a sign announcing the end of the Blue Lake Nordic Trail.

Once we gained the ridge we had a view of Blue Lake below and Suttle Lake a little further to the east.

Blue Lake fills a collapsed cladera to a depth over 300 feet. The trail followed the ridge along the western end of the lake. We followed it around to a knoll described in the guidebook as the start of private land.

Opposite the lake, on the other side of the ridge, lay a meadow with Mt. Washington looming behind.

In addition, the seasonal Cache Falls could be seen flowing down the hillside below hidden Cache Lake.

After visiting the knoll we backtracked a tenth of a mile along the ridge then headed downhill on a faint path heading toward what appeared to be an old road bed. There was a bit of maneuvering around blowdown to get to the road bed where we discovered a clearer path coming down from a point further along the ridge. Here was also the memorial plaque for the Elliott R. Corbett II Memorial State Park.

The trail led into and through the meadow before arriving back at the turnaround at the end of the road walk.

On the way back up we spotted a toad and a frog along the roads.

As we neared the sno-park Three Fingered Jack came into view through the trees.

Remember my comment earlier about avoiding any more ugly roads for the weekend? Well Google got us again. We had originally planned on visiting the nearby Skylight Cave after the hike. In June between the hours of 9 and 11 am sunbeams come through an opening in the roof a short lava tube. The driving directions in our “Bend, Overall” guidebook were from Highway 242 but a look at Google Maps had shown what appeared to be a pretty straight forward 5 mile(ish) drive from Highway 20. We had written directions for that route but about 4 miles into our attempt we came to a 4-way junction with no road signs. Our written directions indicated we should go straight but we were on a gravel road crossing a gravel road and the road ahead was a narrow dirt track. We tried using the Garmin to figure out where we were, but the Garmin showed far more roads than Google had and it seemed to agree that the dirt road was the one we were looking for. After some indecision Heather decided to give it a go. It was quickly obvious that that was a bad choice as the road was narrow, overgrown, and rocky in places. When we spotted a wide enough spot to turn around we did so retreating once again to the 4-way junction. It was after 10am and now we had no confidence that we were even where we had meant to be. So we threw up the white flag and decided to try again some other time when we can follow the guidebook directions.

When we got home we looked again on Google and discovered that the dirt track had been the correct route and we’d only been about 3/4 of a mile from the cave. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Blue Lake

Tags blue lake, cache falls, Elliott Corbett Memorial State Park, hiking, Mt. Washington Area, Oregon, santiam pass, Suttle lake

High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Throwback Thursday Trip report

Throwback Thursday – Patjens Lakes

Post author By derwoodynck
Post date April 20, 2017
4 Comments on Throwback Thursday – Patjens Lakes

On 8/2/2012, a day after our mosquito filled visit to Miller & Maidu Lakes, we were heading home. I had injured my right knee running down the trail to Miller Lake in an attempt to thwart the mosquitoes and it was feeling a little off, but I wanted to give a hike a try on the way over Santiam Pass.

We decided to try Patjens Lakes due to it being relatively short, right around 6 miles, with only 400′ of cumulative elevation gain. The trailhead is located on the NW side of Big Lake off of Forest Road 2690 which is also the entrance road to the Hoodoo Ski Area.
Patjens Lake Trailhead

We stayed right at a fork near the trailhead planning on doing a counter-clockwise loop. A 2011 wildfire had burnt much of the forest along the loop but signs of life were already returning.
Patjens Lake Trail

Goldenrod, penstemon and aster

Pearly everlasting

Patjens Lake Trail

Mt. Washington and Big Lake were visible along the first portion of the trail.

The trail looped around a small butte passing a series of meadows and view to the NW of the Sand Mountain Lookout.
Meadow along the Patjens Lake Trail

Lupine

Sand Mountain Lookout

Shortly after passing a horse trail joining on the right the we entered the Mt. Washington Wilderness and began the only real significant climb of the hike.
Wt. Washington Wilderness sign

The trail climbed to a saddle between the butte and a small hill. At the saddle the Three Sisters were visible to the south.
Forest along the Patjens Lake Trail
Small hill from the saddle.

Patjens Lake Trail

The Three Sisters

As the trail descended from the saddle it entered forest that had been spared by the fire.
Patjens Lake Trail

We passed through a series of meadows full of ferns and scarlet gilia.
Patjens Lake Trail

Tall cascade lilies rose above the ferns.

Cascade lilies

Cascade Lily

As we were passing through one of these meadows we encountered a foul reek. There was obviously some sort of rotting carcass out in the brush but we couldn’t see anything. We were a little concerned that it might have been a mountain lion kill or that a bear might be feeding on it so when we heard a ruckus off to our right we were on high alert. The noise turned out to be a pair of turkey vultures who had apparently located the dead animal.

Turkey vulture

We left well enough alone and continued on our way paying extra attention for any large predators that might have been attracted by the smell. Around a mile from the saddle we came to a small body of water on the right side of the trail.
Patjens Lake #1

The first Patjens Lake was approximately .7 miles from the pond on our left.
A Patjens Lake

The trail then passed a large meadow reentering the burn area before reaching the second Patjens Lake.
Meadow along the Patjens Lake Trail

Patjens Lake #2

The third lake was just beyond the second and it looked like they were probably connected for a brief times during high water. We left the trail and began to loop around the third lake in a clockwise direction.
A Patjens Lake

A number of ducks could be seen in the reeds.
Ducks on a Patjens Lake

From the north end of the lake there was a nice view of Mt. Washington rising over the forest to the south.
Mt. Washington from a Patjens Lake

We took a break here watching the ducks and admiring the mountain then continued around the lake back to the trail. A mile and a half from the last lake we came to a junction near Big Lake where we turned left following the lake shore back toward the trailhead. Flat Hayrick Butte and round Hoodoo Butte rose above the blue waters of Big Lake.
Hoodoo and Hayrick Buttes from Big Lake

Hoodoo Butte
Hoodoo Ski Area

Looking back over our shoulders provided big views of Mt. Washington.
Mt. Washington and Big Lake

A mile from the junction at Big Lake we were back at the trailhead. Despite a little discomfort going downhill my knee had held up which was encouraging. The hike had been a good choice for it and it had been a really nice hike even with the burned forest. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Patjens Lakes

Tags Big Lake, Hayrick Butte, hiking, Hoodoo Butte, Hoodoo Ski Area, Mt. Washington Area, Mt. Washington Wilderness, Oregon, Patjens Lakes, Patjens Lakes Trail, Patjens Lakes Trailhead, scarlet gilia, turkey vulture