The horrible wildfire season finally thwarted one of our planned trips when California announced that all National Forests would be closed over Labor Day Weekend (and at least through September 17th). This was at least the third year in a row we had a backpacking trip in the Siskiyou Wilderness planned but either fire or weather has kept those plans from happening each time. Much like last September many of the areas that aren’t on fire are suffering from unhealthy air quality due to the smoke so our options were limited. (How I miss the days of rain being the driving factor on where we were going to hike.) One of the areas that has been less impacted by the smoke has been SW Washington and so we turned to that area once again for a pair of hikes over the holiday weekend. We skipped Saturday as smoke was an issue pretty much everywhere save for the Coast and Coast Range and waited for the next system to push the smoke east (sorry Central Oregon).
For our hike on Sunday we turned to Matt Reeder’s “Off the Beaten Trail” 2nd edition. In his Indian Racetrack and Red Mountain description (hike #15) Reeder describes an alternate loop using the unmaintained Basin Lakes Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail as an alternate to the 7.4 mile out and back that he suggests. We’d been to Indian Racetrack and Red Mountain as part of a diffent loop (post) so this other loop sounded more interesting than the out and back. We figured if the old Basin Lakes Trail was too hard to follow we could simply turn back and still do the out and back as described since it was only 2 miles to the basin then an additional mile up to the Pacific Crest Trail. We started our hike at the Falls Creek Horse Camp. The Falls Creek Trail heads southwest from the horse camp descending to Falls Creek Falls.

The trail we wanted, the Indian Racetrack Trail, began on the opposite side of Forest Road 65.
There were no signs for the obvious trail.
Once we were on the trail we ignored an unsigned side trail on the right which presumably led down to Falls Creek.

Approximately 0.2 miles from FR 65 a second trail joined from the left at a wilderness signboard.

Approximately 120 yards beyond the signboard we arrived at an unsigned fork.

The Indian Racetrack Trail continued to the right while the abandoned Basin Lake Trail veered left. While the Forest Service no longer maintains the trail (or even lists it on their website) the tread was obvious and based on the number of road apples on the ground it is used fairly regularly by equestrians.

Entering the Indian Heaven Wilderness
A half a mile up this trail we came to a small meadow where a couple of hikers were camped.

They warned us that where were quite a few trees down the closer you got to the Basin Lakes but that didn’t dissuade us and we continued on. The trees weren’t much of an issue and in most cases clear paths simply went around them.


We crossed a branch of Falls Creek just under a mile along the trail.

The tread continued to be fairly easy to follow for another half mile and then it vanished, at least from our sight, near a gully.


After a few minutes of hunting for it (which included crossing and recrossing the gully) we decided to simply follow the tallest ridge in the direction of the lakes using our GPS and Reeder’s map. A quarter mile later we were looking down at Peggy Lake on our left.


We stayed on the ridge above Peggy Lake and turned on the far end made a hard right toward Janet Lake.
Typical vegetation and trees on the ridge.
We rediscovered tread as we dropped to a saddle near Janet Lake.
Sign at the saddle between Peggy and Janet Lakes.
We did walk down to the bank of Janet Lake to admire its reflection.



From Janet Lake it was another 0.1 miles to an unnamed (at least officially) Basin Lake, sometimes on tread and sometimes not.



Sleepy ducks
I believe Oregon Hikers calls this one “Cindy Lake”.
We passed another lake on our left a quarter mile later.

That was followed by what appeared to be a mostly dry lake bed on the right, now filled with green grass.

We were now at the eastern end of the basin facing a steep climb up to the Pacific Crest Trail. We needed to gain almost 500′ to reach that trail and at the moment we weren’t sure if there was any tread to follow up.

We scanned the hillside but couldn’t pick anything out so we put our route finding hats on and identified a small saddle where it looked like a trail would go and headed for it. As we approached we stumbled on tread.

The small saddle we’d been aiming for.
From there we were able to follow a faint path up and out of the basin.


Heather down to the right between a couple of trees.
Me getting close to the top.
The top of the ridge.
The Pacific Crest Trail runs right along the ridge (despite where it’s shown on Google Maps) and passes over the top of Berry Mountain to the south. After catching our breath we turned right and headed toward Berry Mountain and yet more climbing.

Fortunately it was the PCT so the climb was relatively gradual as it switchbacked up 170′ in 0.4 miles.

Mt. Adams in some clouds.
Mt. St. Helens behind a line of clouds.
Gifford Peak (post) behind us.
Chipmunk

At a switchback a bit below the summit we were treated to a spectacular view of Mt. Hood.


Mt. Jefferson was also visible to the right of Mt. Hood. Unfortunately so was the smoke being produced by the Bull Complex Fire which destroyed the historic Bull of the Woods Lookout (post) on Labor Day 😦 .
Autumn is on the way, bring on the rain please.

The PCT stuck to the long summit which would have also provided good views of Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens on a clearer day.
Mt. Adams
Looking toward Mt. St. Helens
The peaks in the Trapper Creek Wilderness (post) to the west.
We finally began to descend from Berry Mountain and after 3 miles on the PCT arrived at a signed junction for the Indian Racetrack Shortcut Trail.
Cliffs on Berry Mountain
Mt. Hood as we headed downhill.
Red Mountain and its lookout tower.
This beargrass is way off schedule.

On our previous hike we’d arrived at this junction from the other direction so when we turned right we one a somewhat familiar trail. After a brief stint in the forest the trail entered larger and larger meadows.


After a half mile we arrived at the Indian Racetrack Trail arriving on our right.

This would be the route back to our car but first we wanted to revisit the lookout on Red Mountain so we continued straight for approximately 50 yards and turned left at a pointer for the Indian Racetrack Trail.

We followed the trail 0.8 miles to a road and then followed the road another quarter mile to the lookout gaining a total of 700′ along the way.

Mt. Adams from a viewpoint along the way.



We passed two sets of hikers on their way down, the second of which mentioned having accidentally driven to the lookout. Apparently someone had vandalized the gate which allowed vehicles to drive up the road. Hopefully the Forest Service can get that remedied quickly as Google still shows the Indian Racetrack Trailhead on Red Mountain.




Not sure if someone forced the door open too or not.
View of Mt. Adams beyond Indian Heaven.
Photo taken from the doorway, it looked like nothing had been vandalized.
Mt. St. Helens still hiding behind that line of clouds.
We took a long enough break at the summit to get to a brief glimpse of Mt. St. Helens summit.

Mt. Adams with a few clouds passing by.
Mt. Hood with smoke from the Bull Complex behind.
We headed back down the Indian Racetrack Trail to Indian Racetrack and then continued on it past Race Track Lake. We passed quite a few hikers on our way down and saw more at Indian Racetrack.
Indian Heaven Wilderness sign on Red Mountain with Mt. Adams in the background.
Race Track Lake on the left.


It was 2.3 miles total from the junction back to the Falls Creek Horse Camp. We continued to see more and more hikers and were once again glad we’d gotten an early start allowing us to have the lookout to ourselves.
Hardhack

Footbridge over Falls Creek.
Falls Creek
Butterfly near Falls Creek.
Sign at the final trail junction near FR 65.
Reeder called this a 12 mile loop but our GPS came in at 11.2 miles which was a nice surprise. Total elevation gained was approximately 2850′. For this loop route finding, map, and navigation skills are highly recommended, otherwise the out and back option still provides a nice hike. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Indian Racetrack via Falls Creek



Trail sign at the junction on 10/13/2012.
Trail sign at the junction on 07/03/2021.
Entering the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness in 2012 (0.3 miles from the TH).
Entering the wilderness in 2021.
Cache Mountain, Black Crater (post), Tam McArthur Rim & Broken Top (post), North & Middle Sister, Mt. Washington, and Hayrick Butte (flat top on the right).

A thistle
Penstemon
Bleeding heart
Pussytoes
California stickseed
Another penstemon
Mountain bluebird by the lake.

There was a good amount of scarlet gilia blooming along this section of trail.
Three Fingered Jack
One of the ponds.
Queen’s cup
Another pond with Maxwell Butte (
Unnamed lake along the trail with Maxwell Butte behind.
Lupine
Dark-eyed junco
Sub-alpine mariposa lilies
Woodpecker
The view south.





Beargrass
Recent snow melt is another recipe for mosquitos.
Another creek crossing.
Shooting star
Mountain heather. Typically if we see this blooming we expect there to be mosquitos.

A sulphur
Alpine false dandelion
One of several snow patches at the tree line.
Nearing the end of the opening.
More snow in the trees.
A checkerspot
Trees & melting snow = more mosquitos.
Not Santiam Lake but a very pretty unnamed lake just to the left of the trail approximately 0.4 miles from Santiam Lake.
Not sure what type this is but the orange on the wing was pretty.
Mt. Jefferson behind Red Butte
Duffy Butte on the left.
Three Fingered Jack
Paintbrush, shooting stars, and buttercups.
Just one of several large uprooted trees along the shore.


The “topographic feature” ahead on the right where we planned on turning for Lower Berley Lake.
Mountain heather along the trail, it was warm and sunny enough that the mosquitos weren’t as bad this time by.
Threeleaf lewisia
Getting closer to the hill where we planned on turning.
California tortoiseshell butterflies in the bed of Lost Lake Creek.



Three Fingered Jack from the rocks.

More tortoiseshells
A butterfly photo bomb


The bed was popular with the butterflies.
Cross country to Upper Berley Lake, the doe was in this meadow and headed in the direction of the patch of snow at the far end.
Upper Berley Lake
We wound up finding the same “user trail” and followed it down to the lower lake.
California tortoiseshell butterflies along Lower Berley Lake.
Three Fingered Jack and about a half dozen butterflies.
The hillside on the right was rocky.
The trail dropping down from the saddle with Mt. Washington and the North Sister ahead.



Found it!



Yellow beetle on lupine.
Orange agoseris
Back at the PCT.
Bumble bees on penstemon.
Cicada in the grass.
Black Crater, Broken Top, North & Middle Sister, Mt. Washington, Hayrick Butte, and Hoodoo Butte from the viewpoint.





Still some fireweed blooming in the fire scar.
East Crater beyond a pond.

Junction Lake
This crab spider offered to watch our tent for us while we were away.







Placid Lake Trail on the left.
No pikas in these rocks, that we saw.
PCT at the 4-way junction.
Cultus Creek Trail heading uphill to the right.



Goat Rocks with Mt. Adams hiding behind trees.
Mt. Rainier behind Sawtooth Mountain (and Steamboat Mountain to the right)
Mt. Rainier








The Labor Day wind storm had knocked a number of trees down but the trails we took had mostly been cleared already.

Cultus Lake from the Deep Lake Trail.


Lemi Rock beyond Cultus Lake
Cultus Lake from the Lemi Trail.

The climb was up a forested hillside.
Mt. St. Helens

Mt. Adams as we approached the viewpoint.
Lake Wapiki
Mt. Hood














Lemi Lake


Pearly everlasting
Lemi Rock from the Lemi Lake Trail.

Junction Lake
Back to the PCT.
Junction Lake from the PCT/Lemi Lake Trail junction.



Some blue sky again.
Happy Lake Trail junction.
Just a small part of the meadow.







We think this was Bear Creek. Other than the outlet of Happy Creek no other creek beds had flowing water on this side of the mountain.
Diamond Peak from the trail.




One of several damp meadows.
The creeks were still dry though.
An unnamed lake.

Small unnamed lake just before Notch Lake.
Another little lake/pond near Notch Lake.
Notch Lake

Beargrass



Diamond Peak from the trail; the smoke was back.
Textured mushroom
On the ridge.
Diamond Peak
Lousewort
Mt. Yoran from the trail.
Diamond Peak again.
Mt. Yoran on the left and the divide on the right.
Passing under Mt. Yoran.
Please tell me that’s a seed and not that the ground squirrels have taken up smoking.
Divide Lake

Blue sky making a comeback.
Diamond Peak from Divide Lake
Climbers trail to Mt. Yoran.
Thank goodness it was a seed.
Beardtongue
Mt. Yoran from Divide Lake
One of the unnamed lakes.
Starting up to the divide.

PCT
Diamond Peak from the PCT.
Lakeview Mountain
New looking sign at the newly extended Yoran Lake Trail.
Huge tree mushroom at the junction.
Diamond Peak from Yoran Lake.

Dry creek bed (this feeds Trapper Creek).
Right hand fork to Karen Lake.



Dragon fly visit.
A little bird joining the duck on the rocks.
Is this a tadpole? We first thought it was a newt then a fish but it’s got feet.
The moon was really showing up well over the mountain.




Rainfly deployed
Another light shower passing over as we were leaving.
Some funny looking beargrass along the trail.


The lake doesn’t show a name on the map but West Bay Creek flows out of it (of course it too was dry at this time of year).





The writing on the sign made us chuckle, it says “If you need a map you should stay home”. All kidding aside you should always carry a map and refer to it as often as necessary.





Breakfast time.



Unnamed lake along the Whitefish Trail
Arriving at Diamond View Lake
Diamond Peak with Mt. Yoran to the right.
Sharing our break spot with a butterfly
Crossbill near Diamond View Lake




Mile marker?
A lone lupine
Nice looking sign for the Snell Lake Trail.
It didn’t look like the Snell Lake Trail sees much use, at least at this end.
The heather was all done blooming but there was a lot of dried blossoms.

The summit of Diamond Peak.






Diamond Peak from the Rockpile Trail

Rockpile Lake




Hikers on the trail to the right coming down from the false summit.
Dragon fly

Little bee landing on fireweed at the trailhead.



Sample of the blowdown.

Fittingly a downed log welcomed us to the wilderness.
Thielsen Creek at the head of Timothy Meadows
flower at Timothy Meadows
Musk monkeyflower?
Thielsen Creek Trail
Howlock Mountain Trail
Pinesap
As the trail climbed around a ridge end the forest thinned enough to get some views of both Mt. Thielsen and Mt. Bailey (
Mt. Bailey
Mt. Thielsen
After rounding the ridge the trail remained mostly in the trees until it neared Howlock Meadows and then Howlock Mountain started to come into view.
Orange agoseris


Butterfly on pumice
PCT leaving Howlock Meadows.
Mt. Bailey from the PCT.
Talus slope above the PCT.
Lots of rocks along the hillside.

PCT crossing Thielsen Creek
Use trails on the left and right hand side of Thielsen Creek.

Found our tent.
I was also looking at the saddle between Mt. Thielsen and Sawtooth Ridge which we needed to climb over in order to reach the falls.







Pink and white blossoms
Some yellow monkeyflower too.
Maybe “clear” use trail isn’t exactly the correct term.
It’s clearer here.
Mt. Thielsen
Sawtooth Ridge
East side of Mt. Thielsen
Cottonwood Falls was on the far side of the pumice plain.
Paintbrush, penstemon, and buckwheat near the saddle.
I had to drop below this neat rock feature which I got too close to and had a difficult time finding my footing to get around.
Looking up the hillside.
Looking back at the rock formation.



Impressively large cave on the face of Mt. Thielsen.
Penstemon
The saddle doesn’t look too bad from this angle.












We got onto the use/game trail as soon as we could going back up.
The “trail” leading up to the saddle.
Mt. Thielsen with the Sun behind.
Howlock Mountain
Unfortunately the lighting wasn’t all that great due to the position of the Sun so we never really could capture all the colorful rocks on the mountain.

Junco near camp.
Mt. Thielsen
Anyone know what the celestial body to the right of the Moon is?


Searching for pikas in the rocks.
Jackpot
Mountain heather
Monkeyflower
Partridge foot
Golden-mantled ground squirrel
Lupine
Merten’s rush
Another angle of the tree fall.

Just picture a good sized buck in the trees, I snapped this hoping to get lucky but I don’t see him at all.





Chindrie Mountain from across Wahtum Lake.




Chindrie Mountain
Tanner Butte
Table Mountain
Chindrie Mountain again.
Indian Mountain
Mt. Hood


Crossing FR 660 near Indian Springs
Trail sign at the junction with the currently closed Indian Springs Trail.








Table Mountain and Greenleaf Peak with Mt. St. Helens in the background.
Mt. St. Helens
Mt. Rainier
Goat Rocks
Mt. Adams and Chindrie Mountain



Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson
Mt. Jefferson
Mt. Hood from the former lookout site.
Mt. Hood with Lost Lake Butte (
Snow on the north side, green on the south.
Mt. St. Helens with some snow on the trees in the foreground.
Crystals on a bush.


Stream crossing
Herman Creek Trail junction.


Looking at the summit from the trail.

Mt. Hood








Lots of beargrass clumps.
Trail to Tomlike on the left.



There’s at least one cairn here.





Mt. Adams to the right.
Mt. Hood with Indian Mountain rising up behind Chindrie Mountain to the right.
Heather crossing the ridge below the summit.

Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Goat Rocks and Mt. Adams from left to right.
Mt. St. Helens
Mt. Rainier
Goat Rocks
Mt. Adams
Anthill Trail on the left.



Mt. Jefferson
Wahtum Lake and Chindrie Mountain


























Olallie Butte

Mt. Jefferson
Olallie Lake

Mt. Jefferson






Potato Butte ahead.
Lodgepole Trail junction.
One of the causes of the noisy steps.
Twin Peaks on the other side of Middle Lake.
Colors along Middle Lake.


Olallie Butte

Twin Peaks from Gifford Lake.




Sign for the Fish Lake Trail.
Lower Lake
Olallie Butte
Sign for the Lodgepole Trail.

Pinedrops
The trail was actually the fainter track to the left leading to the bridge, but that wasn’t obvious until we reached the trees.
A lone yarrow.






Approaching the junction.
Quite the camouflage isn’t it?



Jude Lake
Jude Lake
Jude Lake
Russ Lake












Pinesap
A very blurry deer spotted through the trees.







North Sister
Middle Sister
More spies watching us.


North and Middle Sister behind the Little Brother.
Mt. Jefferson beyond Four-In-One Cone
Mt. Hood over the right shoulder of Mt. Jefferson.
Mt. Washington’s spire behind the cone with Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson.




Scott Meadow



North Sister, Middle Sisters behind Little Brother and The Husband.
North Sister with Collier Cone in front and South Sister behind Little Brother.
The Husband
Scott Mountain (
One of the craters.
Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, and Black Crater (
Looking back south.
Belknap Crater (
Mt. Washington beyond Little Belknap Crater with Three Fingered Jack behind.
Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood






Snow queen and violets
Trillium























October 2015
April 2019







