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Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Castle Crest Wildflowers, Garfield Peak, Hillman Peak, Godfrey Glen, & Sinnott Memorial Overlook – 07/31/2023

For our third day in Crater Lake National Park we had another four hikes planned. We continued to try to limit the crowds we would experience so we decided on an order of the short Castle Crest Wildflower Loop first followed by Garfield Peak then a section of the Rim Trail around Hillman Peak and finally the 1-mile Godfrey Glen Loop.

The Castle Crest Wildflower Loop is part of Sullivan’s Park Headquarters featured hike along with the Lady of the Woods Trail. That latter trail was listed as closed while the Park performs renovations on the historic buildings at Park Headquarters. The trails can be connected using a tie trail which we skipped due to the closure.
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We hiked the loop counterclockwise. The wildflowers were in good shape and the pink monkeyflower was spectacular.
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IMG_5405

IMG_5407

IMG_5409Bog Orchid

IMG_5411Bistort and monkeyflower

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20230731_061418Some sort of orchid?

20230731_061511Yellow monkeyflower

IMG_5427Monkshood

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IMG_5455

IMG_5457Bistort

IMG_5458Not sure if this is a robin or ?

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After the completing the loop we drove up to Rim Village where we parked between the Visitors Center and the Crater Lake Lodge.
IMG_5464Crater Lake Lodge

We followed a paved path along the rim of Crater Lake behind the Lodge to signs for the Garfield Peak Trail.
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IMG_5478Garfield Peak from behind the lodge.

IMG_5479The Watchman and Hillman Peak

IMG_5480Golden-mantled ground squirrel with a mouth full.

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The trail passed a grassy meadow where a doe and her twin fawns were having breakfast.
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The trail climbed steadily occasionally along the rim but more often along the cliffs below Garfield Peak.
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IMG_5529Mt. McLoughlin (post) and Union Peak (post) to the south.

IMG_5530Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_5531Union Peak

IMG_5534Paintbrush

IMG_5536Reservoir structure (built 1931).

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IMG_5542Mt. Bailey (post) to the left of Llao Rock and Mt. Thielsen to the right.

IMG_5545Mt. Bailey

IMG_5547Deer below the trail.

IMG_5552Western pasque flowers

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IMG_5560Arnica

IMG_5563One of several patches of snow at the higher elevations.

IMG_5578Crater Lake Lodge below to the left.

IMG_5580Mt. Scott (post)

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IMG_5586Clark’s nutcracker

IMG_5587Buckwheat

IMG_5589Beetle on sub-alpine fleabane.

IMG_5594Yellow-bellied marmot

IMG_5599Bench below the summit of Garfield Peak.

IMG_5602Partridge foot

IMG_5609Applegate Peak to the left and Crater Peak (post) to the right.

IMG_5611Arriving at the summit.

The 360-degree view from the summit was great even with a bit of haze from wildfire smoke.
IMG_5612Mt. Scott above the Phantom Ship.

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IMG_5647It was a bit hard to make out but Mt. Shasta was visible to the south.

IMG_5621Cowhorn Mountain (post) to the left of Mt. Thielsen and Howlock Mountain to the right.

IMG_5628Crater Lake from the summit of Garfield Peak.

We were scanning the meadows between Garfield and Applegate Peaks and spotted what we think was a large bull elk bedded down near the tree line.
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IMG_5632Blurry photo due to the sheer distance away it was but it looked big.

We had the summit to ourselves, except for a few locals.
IMG_5640Union Peak behind a marmot.

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IMG_5653Penstemon

After a nice break at the summit we headed back down passing a few more hikers making their way up.
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IMG_5661Painted lady

IMG_5665There were a lot of marmots out.

IMG_5679Paintbrush, phlox and buckwheat.

IMG_5683Stonecrop, paintbrush and pearly everlasting.

IMG_5687The clear blue water of the deepest lake in the United States.

IMG_5693Yellow-rumped warbler

Near where we had seen the doe and fawns earlier I was startled by a doe who popped out of some trees right in front of me.
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IMG_5706False hellebore

After returning to the car we drove North on Rim Drive to The Watchman Trailhead. We’d started at this busy trailhead in 2012 when we visited the fire lookout atop The Watchman. Today we would be heading in the opposite direction hiking the Rim Trail around Hillman Peak.
IMG_5712Viewpoint and The Watchman from the trailhead.

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IMG_5714Western pasque flowers above Crater Lake.

It was a short, stiff climb to start before the trail began a gradual descent passing behind Hillman Peak.
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IMG_5724Hillman Peak ahead.

There were quite a few different colors of paintbrush along the trail.
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IMG_5736Lounging on a rock.

IMG_5739Shasta knotweed

IMG_5745Rim Drive below the Rim Trail.

IMG_5746Mt. Bailey and Diamond Peak with Diamond Lake (post) below.

IMG_5752Red Cone with Sawtooth Mountain (post), Cowhorn Mountain, and Mt. Thielsen beyond.

Although barely visible we could make out the South Sister (post) through the haze between Cowhorn Mountain and Mt. Thielsen.

Silvery RaillardellaSilvery Raillardella

IMG_5761Snow patch on Hillman Peak.

IMG_5760Penstemon

IMG_5773Llao Rock

IMG_5777It took us a moment to notice the two deer ahead along the tree line.

IMG_5780We spotted the doe but she also had a pair of fawns nearby that bounded off.

IMG_5786This buck had zero concern with us as we passed by.

IMG_5793Phlox

IMG_5794Dwarf lupine

IMG_5795Devil’s Backbone with Mt. Scott behind.

We ended our hike at Devil’s Backbone, an exposed lava dike.
IMG_5796Wizard Island

IMG_5803Devil’s Backbone

IMG_5804Hillman Peak from Devil’s Backbone.

IMG_5805Garfield Peak across Crater Lake.

After a short break we headed back.
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IMG_5819

IMG_5822Saxifrage

IMG_5831The Watchman

IMG_5837If I stand perfectly still, they won’t see me.

IMG_5842Hillman Peak and Llao Rock from the viewpoint at The Watchman Trailhead.

IMG_5844Rock formations below Hillman Peak.

While the trailhead was packed with cars and people we only passed two others on our 3.7-mile hike to the Devil’s Backbone and back. We hopped back into our car and drove back toward Mazama Village stopping for one more short hike at Godfrey Glen.
IMG_5845Godfrey Glen Trailhead

There were a couple of cars here but nothing like what we’d encountered at The Watchman. The 1-mile loop here passes views of Godfrey Glen and Annie Creek Canyon. Hiking clockwise is the shortest route to the viewpoints but we went the opposite direction to leave ourselves a shorter hike after finishing with the viewpoints.
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IMG_5853The ADA accessible trail made for a nice easy walk.

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IMG_5857Super-heated volcanic gas fused ash creating these pinnacles.

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IMG_5869First viewpoint of Godfrey Glen above Munson Creek.

IMG_5871Godfrey Glen

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IMG_5887Another viewpoint.

IMG_5894We could hear Munson Creek but it wasn’t visible in the canyon below.

Near the last viewpoint we could see just a bit of some falls on Munson Creek.
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IMG_5896One waterfall.

IMG_5899Another waterfall in the canyon.

IMG_5909The end of the loop.

After finishing our hikes we returned to our cabin, showered, and changed then picked up a pizza from the Annie Creek Restaurant and took it back up to Rim Village. We hoped to visit the museum at the Visitor’s Center after eating some lunch but unfortunately it was closed. Instead we took the short paved path near the Center to the Sinnott Memorial Overlook.
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We’d seen the overlook from the Garfield Peak Trail that morning.
IMG_5474Sinnott Memorial Overlook on the rim to the left.

IMG_5913View from the overlook.

IMG_5917Mt. Scott and Garfield Peak from the overlook.

The overlook contained a number of informational signs including this one about the amount of water in the lake.
IMG_5920These numbers blew our minds.

After reading all the signs in the overlook we climbed back up to Rim Village and made our way through the masses of tourists. We quickly decided that the crowds weren’t for us and retreated to the car and headed back toward our cabin. We did stop once more, at Park Headquarters since that was where the Lady of the Woods hike would have taken place if not for the construction.
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IMG_5927Swallowtail and a painted lady on penstemon.

Our day, including the walk down to the overlook came to 9.7 miles and a little under 1500′ of elevation gain. The majority of the elevation gain came from the Garfield Peak hike (just over 1000′) and it was also our longest at 3.8-miles roundtrip. The hike around Hillman Peak was 3.7-miles but only 250′ of elevation gain while Godfrey Glen only gained 100′. The wildflower hike at Castle Crest was approximately a half mile with just 70′ of elevation gain and the short path to Sinnott Memorial Overlook was about a third of a mile roundtrip requiring around 150′ climb back up to the rim.

Garfield Peak and Sinnott Memorial
Hillman Peak
Godfrey Glen

It had been a great day of hiking and the pizza was surprisingly good. We did however come to the conclusion that we just aren’t good tourists. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crater Lake Day 3

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Plaikni Falls, Sun Notch, Crater Peak, Vidae Falls, and Annie Creek – 07/30/2023

After the difficult hike to Stuart and Red Blanket Falls (post) we had a three-stop day planned starting with Plaikni Falls. Plaikni Falls was one of two hikes included in Sullivan’s featured hike along with The Pinnacles Trail. Unfortunately Pinnacles Road was under construction and closed to any entry beyond the Plaikni Falls Trailhead.
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While it was a bummer about the closure our criteria for checking off a featured hike has been hiking (or attempting) to hike just one of the options Sullivan lists in his featured hikes (post) meaning Plaikni Falls would satisfy our criteria.

We set off on the mile long ADA accessible trail just after 6:15am.
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IMG_5011There were pikas out there in the rocks but we only heard them this time.

IMG_5016We did spot this western tanager though.

IMG_5021Pink monkeyflowers. One of our favorite wildflowers.

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IMG_5023The trail climbed gradually along Sand Creek before rounding a corner to a view of Plaikni Falls.

IMG_5026Paintbrush and columbine along with lupine and groundsel.

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IMG_5049Hummingbird visiting a paintbrush.

20230730_070144Monkshood

20230730_070215Yellow monkeyflower

We began here hoping to avoid any crowds and it worked. We were the only ones on the trail and had the falls to ourselves. The first person we saw was just getting ready to exit their car at the trailhead as we finished our hike.

We got back in our car and drove to the Sun Notch Trailhead.
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IMG_5059Applegate Peak from the Sun Notch Trailhead.

From the parking area we hiked up the trail 0.2 to the start of a 0.6-mile loop which we hiked counter-clockwise.
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IMG_5074There is a nice green meadow in the center of the loop.

The loop briefly follows the rim of Crater Lake passing several nice viewpoints.
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IMG_5081The Phantom Ship.

IMG_5084Diamond Peak (post), Sawtooth Mountain (post), and Mt. Thielsen (post).

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IMG_5092The Watchman (post) and Hillman Peak with Wizard Island below. Llao Rock in the center and Mt. Thielsen to the right.

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IMG_5104Garfield Peak, The Watchman, and Hillman Peak.

IMG_5122Heading back down to the start of the loop.

IMG_5124Marmot

After completing the loop here we drove back toward Rim Village along East Rim Drive 1.4 miles to the Vidae Falls Picnic Area and parked in front of a signboard for the Crater Peak Trail.
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The Crater Peak Trail travels 3.2-miles through the forest climbing to the rim of the peak’s crater. A 0.4-mile loop around the crater is possible on an unofficial but well-established path.
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IMG_5133Vidae Creek

The first 0.6-miles paralleled East Rim Drive before turning South along a broad ridge toward Crater Peak.
IMG_5139East Rim Drive was up above the trail.

IMG_5141Crater Peak through the trees on the left.

IMG_5143Paintbrush

IMG_5145Stonecrop

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IMG_5153Setting off on the broad ridge.

The trail was in need of a little maintenance as there were several larger trees down along the ridge.
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IMG_5162

IMG_5178There was a very short steep climb to reach this small meadow with a view ahead to Crater Peak.

IMG_5186Female western tanager

Near the 2.5-mile mark we arrived at the base of Crater Peak where the trail suddenly steepened as it began its climb.
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IMG_5188Looking up Crater Peak.

IMG_5190Little prince’s pine

Views opened up as we climbed.
IMG_5192Union Peak (post)

IMG_5204Mt. McLoughlin (post) to the South.

IMG_5205Mt. McLoughlin behind Lee & Devil’s Peaks.

IMG_5208Mt. Shasta was visible, barely, through wildfire smoke.

IMG_5210Arriving at the crater.

We took a short break on a log to catch our breath after the climb then hiked clockwise around the crater gaining views of the peaks around Crater Lake.
IMG_5217Scarlet gilia lining the trail around the crater.

IMG_5220The Watchman to the left and Garfield Peak.

IMG_5226Applegate Peak and Mt. Thielsen

IMG_5228View south to Mt. McLoughlin with the Goose Nest to the closer to the right.

IMG_5233Dutton Cliffs and Mt. Scott (post)

IMG_5244Pussytoes

IMG_5245The peaks around Crater Lake.

IMG_5247Paintbrush

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IMG_5255Western pasque flowers

IMG_5256Klamath Basin with haze from (most likely) the Golden Fire near Bonanza.

IMG_5265The Rabbitt Ears and Hershberger Mountain (post) along the Rogue-Umpqua Divide.

After completing the loop we headed back to the trailhead where we were stopped by a couple looking for Vidae Falls. Those falls are located along East Rim Drive, not near the picnic area so we let them know where to find the roadside pullout and then followed them to the small parking area.
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It was well worth the quick stop before heading back to our cabin at Mazama Village. We had completed our hikes just after Noon and had plenty of day left so we decided to make the 30-minute drive to Union Creek and have a late lunch/early dinner at Beckie’s Cafe.

Beckie’s was busy but the food was great as usual. We each got a slice of pie to go for desert later and returned to Mazama Village. It was still pretty early so I was doing some research on our remaining hikes for our trip. Looking at the Park website I had noticed that in addition to The Pinnacles Trail two additional trails we were hoping to hike were listed as closed, Lady of the Woods and Annie Creek. Again these were both one of two featured hike options so they wouldn’t affect our ability to check off the featured hikes, but it would be a bummer to miss them nonetheless. I then looked at All Trails and saw that there were very recent trip reports from Annie Creek.

That trailhead was located next to the store in Mazama Village so after eating our pie we decided to make an evening hike out of it to see if the trail was indeed open.
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We followed an unsigned path from the store/restaurant parking lot to a signed junction where we turned right.
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The trail passed between Annie Creek Canyon and the Mazama Campground. We passed a junction where a 1.7-mile loop began/ends that would take us down to Annie Creek.
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IMG_5308Signboard at the loop.

We stayed up and hiked the loop counterclockwise.
IMG_5311Crater Peak from the trail.

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IMG_5315Ash pinnacles

IMG_5319Getting ready to drop into the canyon.

IMG_5323The trail had been closed for hazard tree removal and we could see that there had been some big trees that had to be cleared.

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IMG_5327Wildflowers in the meadows below.

IMG_5336Annie Creek

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The trail crossed Annie Creek a couple of times on footbridges before climbing steeply back up to campground.
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IMG_5376Monkeyflower and lupine

IMG_5391Final pitch to end the loop.

IMG_5392The Annie Creek Restaurant.

Unsurprisingly this had been the busiest hike of the day. After seeing no one on the Plaikni Falls and Sun Notch Trails we’d seen just four other hikers (2 pairs) on the Crater Peak Trail. Our total mileage for the day came in at 12.3 miles (2.2, 0.9, 6.8, and 2.4 miles respectively). Total elevation gain was 1525′ with over a thousand of that coming from the Crater Peak hike. Annie Creek and Plaikni Falls were each 200′ and Sun Notch a little over 100′.

Plaikni Falls, Sun Notch and Crater Peak tracks
Annie Creek

It was a great day of hiking and having a piece of pie from Beckie’s Cafe was the cherry on top. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Plaikni Falls, Sun Notch, Crater Peak, & Annie Creek

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trip report

Stuart and Red Blanket Falls – 07/29/2023

We spent a long weekend at Crater Lake National Park as we continue our quest to hike all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” (post). Our plans included the six remaining featured hikes in the Park that we had yet to hike, but before we got to those, we set our sights on a former featured hike. Stuart Falls had been a featured hike in Sullivan’s third edition but washouts in 2014/15 had severely impacted the western approach (April 2015 trip report by Van Marmot). The area was further damaged in the 2017 Blanket Creek Fire leaving the only viable approach to the falls from the East starting from the Pumice Flat Trailhead located at the Lodgepole Picnic Area.

It was a 4-hour drive from Salem so we arrived at the picnic area a little after 9am and set off on the Pumice Flat Trail.
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The trail promptly crossed Highway 62 and then ran parallel to the highway for approximately a third of a mile before turning away (SW).
IMG_4703Arriving at the highway.

IMG_4704Trail on the far side of Hwy 62.

The Pumice Flat Trail climbed gradually for three miles through unburnt forest to the Pacific Crest Trail.
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IMG_4722Clodius parnassian on a pussy paw.

IMG_4724Much of the trail followed an old roadbed.

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IMG_4727PCT junction.

IMG_4730Butterfly on the Crater Lake PCT register. While I was working on getting the butterfly photo a northbound thru hiker arrived. He mentioned not having had a shower in 10 days and being really excited to reach Mazama Village and being able to take one.

After a short conversation we turned right onto the PCT for 0.1-miles to the Stuart Falls Trail.
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It took us just over three miles to reach Stuart Falls from the PCT. The extensive damage from the 2017 had left the trail hard to follow in some areas. It wasn’t clear how long it had been since the trail had been maintained but even where it was obvious there was plenty of blowdown to navigate.
IMG_4738Older cut logs helped us locate the trail at times.

IMG_4740Union Peak from the trail (post). (The “trail” is not in this photo.)

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IMG_4749It took a second to find the tread in this meadow.

IMG_4751Once we found it though it was easy to follow.

IMG_4759Big beetle. There are also three clodius parnassian butterflies behind to the right.

IMG_4762Typical trail conditions. I spent a good deal of time removing limbs from the larger trees and pulled some of the smaller ones off the trail.

IMG_4770Doe below the trail.

IMG_4771More messy trail.

IMG_4773There was one small stand of unburned forest which provided a brief break from the blowdown.

IMG_4775Checkerspot butterfly

IMG_4782Mylitta crescent and a hoary comma on spreading dogbane.

IMG_4787Paintbrush

IMG_4793I believe that is Tom Mountain and Jerry Mountain.

IMG_4792Bald Top to the right.

IMG_4803Skipper

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IMG_4812Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_4822Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_4823This was the worst of the obstacles.

IMG_4827We hadn’t seen a blue diamond since before the PCT but near the SW corner of the Park boundary we spotted a couple.

IMG_4828Post ahead marking the boundary. The trail passed through a narrow gap here where the blowdown was heavy.

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The trail left the Park and entered the Sky Lakes Wilderness.
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We left the trail briefly to visit a viewpoint above Stuart Falls.
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We continued downhill leaving the trail again to visit a large campsite near the base of 40′ Stuart Falls.
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IMG_4855Arnica below the falls and fireweed above the falls added some nice color to the scene.

One-sided wintergreenOne-sided wintergreen

I had been toying with the idea of attempting to reach Red Blanket Falls which was another mile and a half from Stuart Falls. We discussed things while we took a break at the falls and I decided to go ahead and make the attempt despite the poor trail conditions while Heather would stay at Stuart Falls. We left it open that she would start back if she wanted and I would catch up after I turned around, whenever that wound up happening.

I struck off from Stuart Falls on some good tread that quickly disappeared.
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Four tenths of a mile from the falls I arrived at a trail sign announcing that the old Red Blanket Trailhead was 4 miles away.
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Another former trail forked left here that used to hook up to the Lucky Meadows Trail and eventually the PCT. I stayed right along Red Blanket Creek using it as an anchor point when I lost sight of the trail.
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IMG_4873Small falls on Red Blanket Creek.

IMG_4876Pink monkeyflower

IMG_4877I’d lost the trail here but headed for the patch of bright orange wildflowers to see what they were.

It wound up being a spectacular patch of leopard lilies.
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A little further along I came across a small patch of Crater Lake Collomia.
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A very tough mile from the first trail junction I arrived at a second signed former junction.
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The next tenth of a mile was spent fighting through head high fireweed and feeling around on the ground to find footing in the thick vegetation that was hiding copious amounts of blowdown.
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I was a bit bloody and bruised by I made it to Red Blanket Falls and was not disappointed.
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IMG_4905Red Blanket Falls

IMG_4907View down Red Blanket Creek

IMG_4910A spring fed waterfall along Red Blanket Creek below the falls.

IMG_4918A second and third tier of Red Blanket Falls just below the upper fall. I wasn’t able to get a clearer view of these two drops. I hiked a short distance down the creek but decided the poor trail conditions and loss of elevation weren’t worth going further down the trail with no guarantee of a better view.

IMG_4914The three drops of Red Blanket Falls

IMG_4921One more of Red Blanket Falls.

I headed back to Stuart Falls finding it a little easier to follow the old trail alignment going uphill. This resulted in some different views of the creek.
IMG_4929Another little cascade.

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In my excitement to reach Red Blanket Falls I had spent a little more energy than I had intended so when I got back to Stuart Falls I took a short break. Heather had started back but I needed to cool down, put on a fresh pair of socks, and have a snack.
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After recovering a bit, I set off on my quest to catch up to Heather. Several times I found myself following tread that we hadn’t been on earlier.
IMG_4937Along this rock outcrop I found switchbacks that I’d missed on the way to the falls.

IMG_4941This might be a black backed woodpecker.

IMG_4946This cairn was new to me as well. At this point I was quite a bit below our track from the morning and I was afraid that I might pass Heather without knowing it if she was sticking to the earlier route.

IMG_4950Hummingbird

IMG_4952Goose egg on the left.

I did wind up catching up with Heather who was also feeling fatigued from the tough trail conditions. We made our way back to the PCT where another brief break was had.
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IMG_4966Painted lady

IMG_4979A checkerspot and a copper on sub-alpine fleabane.

IMG_4985Arriving back at the PCT. We again crossed paths with a thru hiker on the way to Mazama Village.

It was nearly all downhill from the PCT but it was three more miles and we were both pretty beat. It was a bit of trudge back to the trailhead made worse by us both running out of water about a mile from the car. We had failed to make use of our filter and refill at Stuart Falls and we paid for it.
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IMG_4992Pussypaws

IMG_4996Dwarf lupine

I tried hustling back to the car to retrieve a Gatorade and water to take back up the trail to Heather but she wasn’t far behind. I met her at the Highway with the drinks but it was the thought that counted.

My hike to Red Blanket Falls wound up being 15.9 miles (0.2 was due to taking the drinks back up the trail) and approximately 2000′ of cumulative elevation gain.

For an idea of what the hike was like prior to the fire here is a report by Van Marmot from July 2017.

It was nearly 5:30pm by the time we finished the hike. Luckily we were only about three miles from Mazama Village where we checked into our cabin then grabbed dinner at the Annie Creek Restaurant and some supplies from the small store where a number of PCT thru hikers were hanging out including the two gentlemen we’d seen on the trail. Aside from the two thru hikers the only other person we saw all day was a Park Ranger on the Pumice Flat Trail on our way back to the trailhead.

It was a lot longer and harder day than we’d planned for given we had three more days of hiking lined up, but I was happy that I’d made it to Red Blanket Falls. In the end it was worth the effort. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Stuart and Red Blanket Falls

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Mt. Jefferson Area Oregon Trip report

Metolius River Backpack – 07/22/23 & 07/23/23

Our first couple of planned backpacking trips didn’t happen for one reason or another but we really wanted to get at least one overnight trip in before August. We’d picked up some new gear that we hoped to give a test run before a longer outing we have planned for August.

Recent reports of a heavy mosquito presence at our plan “A” location forced us to look for a plan “B”. We turned to one of the early trips that hadn’t happened, a hike along the Metolius River starting from the Lower Bridge Campground. Matt Reeder describes 10.1-mile hike to a former trailhead that once served the Shut-In Trail in his “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region”. By all accounts the Shut-In Trail was a brushy mess, at least beyond a mile from the former trailhead. Our plan was to set up camp at the old trailhead and then explore the Shut-In Trail as far as it was passable.

Reeder mentioned that ticks could be a nuisance in the Spring but by this time they and most of the mosquito’s wouldn’t be a problem. The downside of visiting this time of year though would be the heat with highs forecast in the upper 80s. The temperature was pleasant when we arrived at the trailhead just after 7am. We parked at a small trailhead across from the Lower Bend Campground.
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We’d hiked through this trailhead during a 2012 hike starting from the West Metolius Trailhead (post). Lower Bridge which we’d used to cross the river had been the northern end of that hike. For this trip we would be heading further North and then East as we rounded Green Ridge (post) at the Horn of the Metolius.

To reach the trail we had to walk through the campground to the top of its loop and pass between a couple of occupied camp sites to a trail sign.
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IMG_4340The sign is visible from the campground road.

The trail quickly reached the banks of the Metolius. This 23-mile river is fed primarily by a series springs and spring fed creeks beginning with the Head of the Metolius (post). The river ends at Lake Billy Chinook (post) where it joins waters from the Crooked and Deschutes Rivers. The spring fed water is cold and clear which makes the Metolius a beautiful river.
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The trail passes a number of large campsites early on with numerous side trails for fly fishers to access the river. Reeder mentioned the trail petering out just over a mile and a half from the campground across the river from the Candle Creek Campground and recommended veering away from the river there and joining the Lower Metolius River Road.
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IMG_4357

IMG_4359Common mergansers

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IMG_4365Ouzel

IMG_4367Goldenrod

IMG_4368Passing some of the campsites.

IMG_4384The Candle Creek Campground across the Metolius.

The trail seemed to be in pretty good shape as we passed the campground so instead of detouring to the road we stuck to the trail which was now more of a braided fisherman’s trail than a hiker trail, but it was passable without too much effort. That is until the final 100′ where we nearly lost the trail in brush before finding a very steep trail leading up to the road.
IMG_4394

IMG_4397We actually went left below the stump here but, on the way back wound up coming downhill by the stump.

IMG_4399More campsites.

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IMG_4403As we got further from the campground we encountered more and more brushy sections.

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IMG_4412Another section with an increased number of obstacles.

IMG_4415Getting a bit brushier.

IMG_4417We left the river for the road at this bend.

IMG_4419Heading up to the road.

IMG_4422The use trail from the road.

Several opportunities to head for the road prior to this had us deciding that we would look for one of those on the way back instead of returning exactly the way we came. We followed this road a total of 6.2 miles to where the GPS showed the road ending and the Shut-In Trail beginning. We actually were passed by a gentleman in an SUV who was heading for one a small number of private cabins located approximately 3.7 miles from where we’d joined the road. He stopped to ask where we were headed and wished us a good hike.
IMG_4423

IMG_4427We wondered what this post signified.

IMG_4432They were way past blooming but there were several mountain lady slippers along the road.

IMG_4434

IMG_4446Osprey nest

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IMG_4445

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IMG_4462Rock spire on lower section of Green Ridge. There are several interesting rock features higher up on the northern end of Green Ridge that were not visible from the road.

IMG_4463Orchid

IMG_4470Scarlet gilia

IMG_4474Some of the private cabins from the road.

IMG_4473

IMG_4476

IMG_4635

IMG_4482A couple more cabins.

Based on the Oregonhikers field guide we had expected the road beyond the private cabins to have downed trees but instead found they had all been cut and there were even tire tracks, bicycle most likely, all the way to the Shut-In Trail.
IMG_4483The end of the private land.

IMG_4485The clear water allows for nice views of the rocks making up the riverbed.

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IMG_4490

IMG_4492Even though it had received maintenance the road was not in good enough condition for larger vehicles.

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IMG_4506

IMG_4507Pink monkeyflower

IMG_4512

IMG_4516

IMG_4520Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_4524The forest opened up near the end of the road where we set up camp.

IMG_4538

IMG_4544Campsite

IMG_4528Yellow monkeyflower

We had arrived at our campsite a little before 12:15pm and it was really heating up, so we broke out our camp chairs and rested for several hours near the river before fixing an early dinner and setting off on the Shut-In Trail.
IMG_4541Lizard hanging out near the campsite.

After an early dinner we set off on the Shut-In Trail which we were surprised to find had seen some recent maintenance.
IMG_4526

IMG_4550

IMG_4557Grouse

IMG_4560The answer to the questions is yes bears do.

IMG_4562The Metolius through the trees.

IMG_4566Sagebrush mariposa lily. There also tire tracks in the trail behind.

IMG_4567

IMG_4570Recent brushing had been performed through this area.

IMG_4571Looking up the end of Green Ridge.

IMG_4573This large tree had been cut fairly recently.

IMG_4576Flagging marking a reroute around a downed tree.

After a little more than a mile and a half of good trail things began to deteriorate.
IMG_4581Starting to get brushy.

IMG_4582View across the river to the Warm Springs Indian Reservation.

IMG_4584Flowers along the Metolius.

IMG_4589

IMG_4591The Whitewater River was behind the rock formation on the far side. The Whitewater River begins at the Whitewater Glacier on Mt. Jefferson and flows roughly 7.5 miles through the Warm Springs Reservation to the Metolius.

IMG_4592More clear water.

IMG_4593Fireweed

IMG_4595Thimbleberries provided us with a few after dinner snacks.

IMG_4596Hedgenettle

IMG_4601The Shut-In Trail traveled right along the riverbank at times.

There was one section along the hillside that had experienced some pretty significant erosion.
IMG_4611 There was a small set of boards nailed together to assist with crossing the sketchiest part, but they were just lying on the hillside and not anchored in any way.

Just under two and a half miles from our camp we arrived at County Road 64. One could continue along this closed road for 4.6 miles to a gate just beyond the Monty Campground. A seasonal gate is located another 1.7-miles from the campground along the Metolius arm of Lake Billy Chinook.

IMG_4605The Shut-In Trail from CR-64.

IMG_4606CR-64

After a short break at the road we headed back.
IMG_4608

IMG_4612Frog on a skunk cabbage leaf. There were a few wet areas along the Shut-In Trail which meant a few mosquitos were present.

IMG_4616The Sun going down as we approached camp.

Our first day wound up being 15.3-miles, 10.5 to reach camp and a 4.8-mile round trip on the Shut-In Trail. The elevation gain was only about 800′ total.

We woke up early the next morning hoping to stay ahead of the heat. After breakfast and packing up we followed the Lower Metolius River Road a total of 8-miles before cutting down to the trail along the river.
IMG_4624

IMG_4634Pinedrops

IMG_4640Squirrel

IMG_4641Bee sleeping on thistle.

IMG_4647Large boykinia

The gentleman that had driven passed us the day before passed us again on his way into the cabins shortly before we turned off the road.
IMG_4660We turned off the road here on a well-established use trail down to the water.

Red AdmiralRed admiral. As far as I know this is the first one of this species of butterfly that we’d seen.

IMG_4672

IMG_4675Common wood nymph

IMG_4678Across from the Candle Creek Campground.

IMG_4681Green Ridge through some smoke. A couple of new fires, one on the Warm Springs Reservation and one East of Eugene had started over the weekend.

IMG_4682Love the colors of the Metolius.

IMG_4685Skipper on a mariposa lily.

IMG_4694

IMG_4699Lower Bridge Campground is ahead to the left in the trees.

Our return hike came in at 10.1-miles which was the distance Reeder indicated between the trailhead and Shut-In Trail. The elevation gain was under 500′ of very gradual uphill, mostly along the road.

Blue is our hike to camp. Yellow is the Shut-In Trai.
Red is our return to the trailhead.

Heat aside this turned out to be a great backpacking trip. Over the two days we only passed one fly fisher (near Lower Bridge Campground), the private landowner (2x in his car), and a pair of hikers (again near Lower Bridge Campground). There were people across the river at Candle Creek Campground and in Lower Bridge Campground itself, but it was about as much solitude as we could have asked for. The condition of the trails was also better than we’d expected despite the rough end of the Shut-In Trail toward CR-64. It was a successful test run of our new gear as well and we now feel ready for our longer trip coming up in August. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Middle Metolius River

Categories
Clackamas Hiking Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Sheepshead Rock, Plaza Lake, and Tumala Mt. – 07/15/2023

A heat wave arrived for the weekend which had me looking for a hike that might not be too warm. After checking the forecast for a few areas on NOAA the lowest high (78 degrees Fahrenheit) for hikes on our to-do list was in the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness near Sheepshead Rock and Plaza Lake.

My original plan for this hike was to start at the Twin Springs Trailhead aka Old Baldy East Trailhead and take the Plaza Trail past Sheepshead Rock to Salmon Mountain then drive (or road walk) on to the Plaza Lake Trailhead to visit the lake. As I was doing more research to prepare for the hike, I read a couple of different reports mentioning a rough 10.5-mile final stretch of road to that trailhead. An alternative was to drive to the Old Baldy West Trailhead, an entirely paved route which according to Google Maps was also an hour shorter drive from Salem. Starting here would put Salmon Mountain out of reach distance wise, but the route would pass the cutoff to Tumala Mountain which we had visited in 2019 (post).

The plan was now set but the day before the hike Heather started feeling a bit under the weather. With her not feeling 100% we decided she would skip this outing. I set off extra early hoping to keep things as cool as possible arriving at the trailhead a little after 6am.
IMG_4018

IMG_4021Rhododendron at the trailhead.

I turned right on the Old Baldy Trail and after passing the Eagle Creek Cutoff Trail on my left I quickly remembered how steep some of the climbs were on this trail.
IMG_4024Eagle Creek Cutoff Trail on the left just before the first steep climb.

IMG_4027Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness sign. I would be in and out of the wilderness several times on my route.

IMG_4032Pictures rarely capture the actual steepness of the trails but the third of a mile past this trail sign had me wondering if I was going to be able to complete my planned hike.

The trail leveled out for a short distance allowing me to catch my breath and then dropped to a saddle before climbing again, but at a more reasonable grade.
IMG_4038

IMG_4045Starting the descent to the saddle.

IMG_4050The Fanton Trail joins on the right from below around three-quarters of a mile from the Old Badly West Trailhead.

IMG_4053Coral fungus

Approximately 1.25-miles from the trailhead I arrived at a junction with the Tumala Mountain Trail.
IMG_4054The Old Baldy Trail turns left here while the Tumala Mountain Trail continues straight.

IMG_4055A small unreadable sign was the only identifier for the continuation of the Old Baldy Trail. I was a little concerned seeing blowdown on this trail from the junction but as it turned out the trail was in good shape and the trees that were down were easily stepped over.

I had decided to save Tumala Mountain for later since I had already been up to the summit. While it was only a third of a mile, I wasn’t sure about adding the extra distance and elevation on what promised to be a warm day. The other reason for waiting was that the Sun wouldn’t be between myself and Mt. Hood later in the day, and it surely would have been this early.

The Old Baldy Trail descended for a mile losing roughly 500′, most of it in the first third of a mile.
IMG_4056

IMG_4059One of four switchbacks in the first 0.3-miles.

IMG_4064Cat’s ear lily

IMG_4068

IMG_4074Cascade lily

The trail leveled out as it passed under some rock outcroppings and crossed a scree slope where I heard the distinctive “meeps” of several pikas but was unable to spot any.
IMG_4082

IMG_4078Oregon sunshine

IMG_4083Larkspur & ?

IMG_4088Paintbrush

IMG_4089Bunchberry, not sure what is causing the white at the end of the leaves. I’d never noticed that before.

IMG_4093Lupine

IMG_4094

IMG_4097View at the scree slope

IMG_4100I’m pretty sure there were at least three pikas down there somewhere.

IMG_4102Tumala Mountain in the center.

IMG_4104From left to right is East Mountain, Thunder Mountain (post), Fish Creek Mountain (post), and Whaleshead. Sadly, all but Thunder Mountain were burned in the 2020 Riverside Fire.

Beyond the scree slope the trail began a gradual half mile climb to a ridge end where it then descended for a quarter mile to the Twin Springs Trailhead.
IMG_4107Little prince’s pine

IMG_4109Cascade lilies, a few lupine and a paintbrush.

IMG_4115Carolina bugbane and foam flower.

IMG_4120Spur trail from the Twin Springs Trailhead (Old Baldy East) on the right.

To reach the Plaza Lake Trail I would need to hike Forest Road 4610 just under a mile from the Twin Springs Trailhead while Sheepshead Rock was another 1.5-miles along what was now the Plaza Trail.
I had been wrestling with whether to visit Sheepshead Rock or Plaza Lake first. It was still early enough that the Sun would likely be influencing the quality of view from Sheepshead Rock and the trail to Plaza Lake would require a 500′ climb back up the half mile Plaza Lake Trail. Visiting the lake first would give the Sun time to travel further West and mean I would be making that climb a little earlier in the day. The argument for Sheepshead Rock first was that the lake was the only source of water along my route and doing the 3.2-mile out-and-back to the viewpoint before the lake would give me a better idea of whether or not I would need to replenish any water for my return hike. (I had brought an extra Hydro Flask full of water along with my usual 3-liters.) In the end visiting Sheepshead Rock first won out due to the water so I stayed straight on the Plaza Trail.
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The Plaza Trail climbed very gently through the forest, at first running somewhat parallel to FR 4610 before turning left (North) at an old roadbed. This was the sight of the former Plaza Guard Station. Supposedly there was an old stone fireplace here but I wasn’t able to spot it at all.
IMG_4130

IMG_4203Part of the foundation at the former guard station site.

IMG_4202The old road.

The trail continued its gradual climb crossing the “Plaza”, a wide area along the ridge where avalanche lilies were blooming in large numbers.
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IMG_4142

IMG_4145

IMG_4200

Mosquitos had been a bit of a nuisance all morning and here every time I stopped for pictures a high-pitched whine reminded me of their presence, so I kept my stops to a minimum.
IMG_4147Not a big beargrass year but there was a few blooming along the trail.

Beyond the Plaza the ridge narrowed and the trail dopped a little to traverse along its side.
IMG_4149

I was watching for a small spur trail to the right for Sheepshead Rock and was fooled once.
IMG_4153I went up this trail to find it just immediately dropped back down to the Plaza Trail.

IMG_4154The correct spur to Sheepshead Rock.

I turned up the spur trail and made my up Sheepshead Rock.
IMG_4156

IMG_4158Mt. Hood

IMG_4159

IMG_4162Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood

IMG_4168Some light scrambling brought me to the top of the rock.

IMG_4172Mt. St. Helens, Goat Rocks, and Mt. Adams in the distance. The high point to the left along the forested ridge is Wildcat Mountain (post).

IMG_4173Mt. St. Helens

IMG_4180Goat Rocks and Mt. Adams

IMG_4183Mt. Hood with the South Fork Salmon River valley below.

IMG_4170Orange agoseris

IMG_4174Oregon sunshine and yarrow

IMG_4177Saxifrage

IMG_4178Penstemon

IMG_4191Bluebells of Scotland

After a nice, albeit warm, break at the viewpoint I headed back toward the Twin Springs Trailhead. When I arrived back at the old roadbed I got a wild hair and decided to turn onto it. A quick check of the map showed that it was a more direct line to FR 4610 allowing me to cut some distance off total mileage for the day. There were a few downed trees along the way but for the most part it was easy walking and I arrived at FR 4610 in 0.3 miles.
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IMG_4206

I turned left on FR 4610 and followed it for 0.6 miles to a sign on the left for the Plaza Lake Trail Trail.
IMG_4208Valerian

IMG_4211Moth on an arnica.

IMG_4217The Plaza Lake Trail sign on the left.

A very short, rough spur road led to a couple of parking spaces and the start of the Plaza Lake Trail.
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The trail made seventeen switchbacks on the way down to the lake. I was thankful for these on the way back up as they kept the trail from ever being too steep.
IMG_4222View from one of the switchbacks.

IMG_4224Pacific coralroot

IMG_4225Bunchberry with the more familiar all green leaves.

IMG_4226Plaza Lake below from the trail.

IMG_4228Twin flower

IMG_4229There were some nice big trees along the trail.

At one time the Plaza Trail continued beyond the lake all the way to the Salmon River but now it effectively ends at the lake. (Note that there didn’t seem to be any viable campsites at the lake which might be one reason there were signs of people having camped at the trailhead.)
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I took another break at the lake to watch the dragonflies, change into dry socks, and check my water supply.
IMG_4232

IMG_4240Looking up from the lakeshore.

IMG_4241

IMG_4244

After determining that I had sufficient water for the reminder of my hike I made the climb back up to FR 4610 and followed it back to the Twin Springs Trailhead. During the road walk I was passed by two OHVs, the first other people I had seen all morning.
IMG_4247

IMG_4251I’d missed Mt. Hood on the way down.

IMG_4253Mt. Hood

IMG_4254

IMG_4256Anemones

IMG_4257Spirea and lupine

IMG_4261A fritillary butterfly.

IMG_4270The former Twin Springs Campground was near the trailhead on the opposite side of FR 4610.

IMG_4271The Twin Springs Trailhead.

IMG_4272Old Baldy Trailhead sign at the Twin Springs Trailhead.

IMG_4274Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness sign (straight ahead) at the Old Bald/Plaza Trail junction.

I turned left onto the Old Baldy Trail and followed it approximately 1.8 miles back up to the junction with Tumala Mountain Trail.
IMG_4280I stopped again at the scree slope to look for pikas. All was quiet as they apparently had retreated underground to avoid the heat, but with more light in the valley below I could make out a green meadow in the trees.

IMG_4289Columbine along the trail.

IMG_4292Grey jay

IMG_4293Back at the Tumala Mountain Trail junction.

Having seen Mt. Hood from the Plaza Lake Trail and seeing that the view was indeed better than it had been earlier I turned left up the Tumala Mountain Trail and made the 0.3-mile climb to its summit.
IMG_4295

IMG_4296My first view of Mt. Jefferson on the day.

IMG_4297Mt. Jefferson

IMG_4299A yet to blossom rhododendron.

IMG_4301Fading lousewort and valerian.

IMG_4302A blooming rohdodendron.

I ran into the first other hiker of the day at the former lookout site. She mentioned that she had planned on hiking from the Old Baldy East Trailhead but wound up at the Old Baldy West Trailhead instead. She had put Old Baldy Trailhead as her destination in her driving directions instead of Twin Springs so it took her to the same trailhead I’d started at. The view from the summit was clearer than it had been on my previous visit.
IMG_4305Mt. Hood. The scree slope is also visible through the trees on the hillside to the lower right.

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I wandered along the rocky summit a bit to get different views. Along with the hiker at the former lookout site there was a radio operator and another pair of hikers in the area.
IMG_4320Mt. Jefferson in the distance.

IMG_4312Mt. Jefferson

IMG_4322Three Fingered Jack and the Three Sisters

IMG_4316More Cascade lilies.

IMG_4318Mt. St. Helens in the distance.

IMG_4321Mt. St. Helens

IMG_4324A better view of the scree field and the meadows below Tumala Mountain.

Parts of Mt. Adams were also visible, but I wasn’t able to find a spot without trees in the way to get a clear view. Satisfied with the views I headed back down to the Old Baldy Trail and then continued on returning to the trailhead.
IMG_4327Penstemon and lupine.

IMG_4329Passing the Fanton Trail junction on the way back.

IMG_4331Looking at the final climb of the day from the saddle.

With most of the trails passing through forest there was a lot of shade so despite it reaching the 70s by the time I was finishing at Noon it never felt uncomfortably hot. I hadn’t needed all of my 3-liters of water, but I was close to needing to break into the Hydro Flask. The hike itself came in at 12.9 miles with 3240′ of elevation gain. {My shortcut on the closed road from the guard station site to FR 4610 cut 0.6-miles off.)

While I missed having Heather with me the combination of warm weather and mosquitos made this a good one for her to miss. She seemed to be feeling quite a bit better when I got home so hopefully I won’t be heading out solo again in the foreseeable future. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Sheepshead Rock, Plaza Lake, and Tumala Mountain

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Washington Area Oregon Trip report

Santiam Wagon Road – McKenzie River TH to Sand Mountain – 07/08/2023

From 1865 to 1939 the Santiam Wagon Road served as the primary means of transportation from the Willamette Valley to Central Oregon. Beginning in Lebanon the nearly 400-mile route crossed the central Cascade Mountains at Santiam Pass. Sections of the road have been preserved and now serve as trails.

We’d previously hiked sections at House Rock (post), Tombstone Pass (post), Fish Lake (post), Sand Mountain (post), and Whychus Canyon Preserve (post). For our previous hike to Sand Mountain we had started near Big Lake and followed the wagon road West for almost three miles to forest road 2690-810 which leads to Sand Mountain.

For this visit we began to the West of Sand Mountain at the McKenzie River Trailhead.
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The 26.5-mile long McKenzie River Trail shares this trailhead with the Sanitam Wagon Road.
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We set off on the wagon road through an old lava flow. The flow was old enough that the forest had had time to mature.
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IMG_3655

IMG_3663Prince’s pine

IMG_3667Candystick

20230708_070836Twinflower

IMG_3681Big uprooted tree.

The road climbed gradually from the trailhead for three miles to a crossing of Forest Road 2676.
IMG_3686

IMG_3690A carpet of vanilla leaf leaves.

IMG_3704

IMG_3707FR 2676

We jogged left on FR 2676 for approximately 50′ to a gate and the continuation of the Santiam Wagon Road.
IMG_3710Despite the “Closed to all Motor Vehicles” sign it was obvious, and unfortunately not surprising, that some people feel they have a right to ignore anything they disagree with.

The road continued its gradual climb but the surface now was much sandier which required a bit more effort. The forest also changed from large fir trees to smaller lodgepole pine and snowbrush.
IMG_3715More candysticks

IMG_3720The few sections that weren’t sandy consisted of lava rock.

IMG_3727Dwarf lupine

IMG_3728Pussy paws

IMG_3734Pygmy short-horned lizard next to a deer print.

IMG_3738Sand Mountain on the right.

IMG_3742Another pygmy short-horned lizard

IMG_3746Snowbrush lining the road with the northern end of Sand Mountain ahead.

IMG_3751Butterflies, including this hoary comma, and other pollinators love the snowbrush.

20230708_090253Hoary comma

Just over a mile and a half beyond FR 2676 we passed another gate at a junction with FR 890. Here the road is open to motorized vehicles as part of a large Santiam Pass OHV Trails network. The large amount of trails/roads open to these types of vehicles in the area made their usage on the closed section of the Santiam Wagon Road even more annoying.
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IMG_3755

We followed this portion of the road for 0.4-miles to the gated road to Sand Mountain.
IMG_3757Penstemon

IMG_3759The Moon over Sand Mountain.

IMG_3761Mt. Washington

IMG_3765Sign and gate at the road to Sand Mountain.

We followed this road uphill for a mile and a half to a parking area between Sand Mountains two craters. As we climbed the surrounding peaks came into view.
IMG_3769

IMG_3773Buckwheat

IMG_3781More snowbrush

IMG_3779California tortoiseshell

IMG_3784The Sand Mountain Lookout from below.

IMG_3788Mt. Jefferson and Three Fingered Jack

IMG_3789Mt. Washington and the Three Sister

Western swallowtailWestern swallowtail

IMG_3803The Three Pyramids(post), Scar Mountain & Trappers Butte(post), and Coffin & Bachelor Mountains (post).

IMG_3802Echo Mountain & North Peak to the left and Crescent Mountain(post) to the right.

IMG_3808Browder Ridge (post) to the center-left, Iron Mountain center, and South Peak, Cone Peak, Echo Mountain & North Peak to the right.

IMG_3818Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_3819

From the parking area we followed the lined trail uphill for 0.4-miles to the staffed Sand Mountain Lookout.
IMG_3821

IMG_3830Mt. Washington (post), Belknap Crater (post), and the Three Sisters.

IMG_3831

IMG_3833Maxwell Butte (post), Mt. Jefferson, and Three Fingered Jack.

IMG_3836Just a bit of snow left on the North facing slope.

IMG_3841Western pasque flower

IMG_3844It’s very faint but the top of Mt. Hood was visible over the lower left shoulder of Maxwell butte.

IMG_3845Penstemon

IMG_3846

IMG_3847Belknap Crater, the Three Sisters, The Husband, Scott Mountain (post), and Diamond Peak (post) in the distance.

IMG_3848Zoom of Diamond Peak. The round looking hump in front is Fuji Moutain (post).

IMG_3853

IMG_3858Hoodoo and Hayrick Buttes, Black Butte (post), and Cache Mountain.

IMG_3861There were quite a few bumblebees at the summit interested in the rocks in this area.

IMG_3863This Edith’s checkerspot joined the bees for a moment.

We stopped to talk to the current staffer who said it was the nicest morning he’d seen in almost a week. The amount of smoke/haze was indeed much less than we’d experience on the 4th at Rocky Top (post). Before continuing on we confirmed with him that the loop around the crater was still open to hiking and he said it was and also suggested that we take the closed road back to the parking area instead of looping all the way around back to the lookout. His reasoning was that the last climb up to the lookout was a bit of a scramble. On our previous visit we had actually gone down that section as we had done the loop counterclockwise. We planned on a clockwise loop this time so we thanked him and kept the road return open as an option.
IMG_3855Viewpoint below the lookout.

IMG_3871The lookout from the viewpoint.

20230708_103106Not sure if this is an aster or a fleabane.

IMG_3885The trail getting ready to drop down to a saddle. The peaks from right to left are: Browder Ridge, Twin Buttes, Latiwi Mountain, Wildcat Moutain, Tidbits Mountain (post), Bunchgrass Mountain, and Carpenter Mountain (post) followed by an unidentified ridge on the left.

IMG_3886

IMG_3888We were a little surprised to find these broomrape hiding in this silverleaf phacelia.

IMG_3890

IMG_3894Drummond’s anemone

IMG_3897Look into the crater.

IMG_3899

IMG_3902A couple of penstemon blossoms with the Three Sisters in the background.

IMG_3907The colors around the crater add to the scenery.

IMG_3910

IMG_3911Pyrola of some sort.

IMG_3919

IMG_3922Starting the steep climb back toward the lookout.

IMG_3925View from the roadbed. We opted to do as the lookout staffer suggested and follow the road back down toward the parking area instead of back up to the lookout.

IMG_3926

IMG_3932There was one good sized snow drift left encroaching on the road.

The forecast had said there was a slight chance of showers starting at Noon with another slight chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon beginning at 2pm. Aside from some clouds to the over Central Oregon to the East and one or two strays over Mt. Washington the sky remained was still clear as we headed back.
IMG_3938This little cloud wasn’t much of a threat.

IMG_3940If anything the views had improved now that Sun was more directly overhead.

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Not long after we’d started back down the road from the parking area we spotted another hiker on her way up. It would be the only other hiker we’d see on the roads/trails all day and it turned out to be one of the strangest coincidences we’ve ever experienced. On the drive to the trailhead that morning we were having a discussion about how often we wind up doing a hike just days before or after we see one of the other hikers we follow doing the same hike. There have also been numerous times where we find out after a hike or trip that we were in the same area or even the same trails at the same time but somehow missed each other. The only person we have run into more than once is Cheryl Hill (Just Peachy), once during a 2015 hike in Jefferson Park (post) and the other near Table Lake in 2018 (post). After the whole conversation that morning we were pleasantly surprised to find it was again Cheryl. This was her first visit to this lookout and she mentioned that it would be her 91st. She is currently working on visiting all of the standing lookouts in Oregon a project that we find very interesting. We had a nice conversation then headed our respective directions.

On the way back there were somehow even more butterflies vising the snowbrush.
IMG_3944A checkerspot

IMG_3952A hairstreak

IMG_3962Three Fingered Jack and Hoodoo Butte

IMG_3966Three Fingered Jack. Note the climbers trail on the slope to the right.

IMG_3970Ash in the basin below Sand Mountain.

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IMG_3989Pussy paws

IMG_3991Female western tanager

IMG_3998Moth

IMG_4002Snake in the trail.

IMG_4006The snake retreated to a nearby log when we approached.

IMG_4007Back in the forest.

IMG_4013This moth blended with the nearby fungus.

I had contemplated hiking the McKenzie River Trail down to Clear Lake (post) prior to returning to the car but that was before I knew how far our hike to Sand Mountain was going to be. The hike turned out to be 14.7 miles with 2500′ of mostly gradual elevation gain.

We have this section of the McKenzie River Trail on our to-do list so we decided to wait until then and retuned to the car to prepare for the drive home.

Although it was a little longer hike than we’d planned it was a good hike and not particularly difficult. The location of the lookout between the High Cascades and Old Cascades provides excellent views and the crater is an interesting feature. Add in the history of the Santiam Wagon Road with the solitude we experienced and you’ve got a really nice day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Santiam Wagon Road to Sand Mountain

Categories
Hiking Old Cascades Oregon Trip report

Natural Rock Arch, Rocky Top, & North Santiam Park – 07/04/2023

Traditionally we take a hike on July 4th somewhere in the Cascade foothills. Last year we broke that tendency by spending an extended weekend in California’s Siskiyou Wilderness (post). This year we set our sights back on the Cascade foothills with plans to hike three short trails featured in a couple of Matt Reeder’s guidebooks. All of the trails we were visiting today were impacted by the 2020 Beachie Creek Fire.

Our first stop of the morning was at the Natural Rock Arch Trailhead. Located in the Santiam State Forest Reeder combines the Natural Rock Arch Trail and the Rocky Top Trail as hike #15 in his “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region” 2nd edition.
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IMG_3102The forecast for Salem was for temps in the mid-90s so we got an early start.

The Natural Rock Arch Trail set off downhill from the small parking area through burned woods.
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There were a number of wildflowers blooming along the trail including some impressive Cascade lilies.
IMG_3105Bleeding heart and penstemon

IMG_3114Iris

IMG_3123Cascade lily

20230704_061639Scouler’s bluebell

20230704_061742Inside-out flower

IMG_3136A few green trees remain.

20230704_062012Another Cascade lily

IMG_3152The trail was in pretty good shape overall and we could tell there was ongoing trail work. It looked like there were some rock steps that were going be placed in this section.

IMG_3151Penstemon

20230704_062502Oregon sunshine

It was a half mile descent to the Natural Rock Arch.
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IMG_3155View from the arch.

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IMG_3159Fin below the arch.

The trail continues through the arch and uphill a short distance on the other side to a small cave/overhang.
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After visiting the arch we hiked back up to the trailhead regaining the 500′ in elevation we’d lost on the way down. The climb was the main reason we’d started with this trail preferring to make the climb before it got too warm.
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In the guidebook Reeder has you drive to the Rocky Top Trailhead which is just under 2 miles away. The last mile or so of the drive to the Natural Rock Arch Trailhead had been a little rough and I didn’t feel like two more miles of the same so we decided to walk the road instead. While there was another 500′ of elevation difference between the two trailheads the gain looked to be very gradual on the topographic map.

This wound up being a great choice as the road was lined with wildflowers for nearly its entire length, and we also spotted a pika along the way.
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IMG_3191Snowberry checkerspot

IMG_3192Rocky Top straight ahead.

IMG_3200Penstemon and big deer vetch

IMG_3202Cascade lily

IMG_3209Oregon sunshine, penstemon, Oregon bedstraw, and a daisy or two.

IMG_3211Oregon sunshine and paintbrush

IMG_3218There was a fair amount of shade while the Sun was still low.

IMG_3219Paintbrush and penstemon

IMG_3224Thimbleberry

IMG_3225Bleeding heart. There was more bleeding heart on this hillside than we’d ever seen in one spot.

Eight-spotted Forester Alypia octomaculata
Eight-spotted Forester-Alypia octomaculata

IMG_3235Pika below the road.

IMG_3233Pika

IMG_3236Rhododendron

IMG_3240The Three Sisters on a hazy morning.

IMG_3242Anemone

IMG_3244Paintbrush and lupine

IMG_3245Beargrass

IMG_3247A few patches of green below Rocky Top.

IMG_3252This was probably the worst spot in the road in between the two trailheads.

IMG_3256Bunchberry

IMG_3257Trillium with a few petals yet to fall off.

IMG_3258Violets

IMG_3261Spirea and valerian

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IMG_3274

20230704_074833Large boykinia

IMG_3283Lots of lupine.

IMG_3280Larkspur and phacelia

IMG_3296Arriving at the Rocky Top Trailhead.

A Marion County Sherrif drove up in his pickup as I arrived at the trailhead. We had a nice talk before he started back down the road. Heather arrived shortly afterward and we started up the Rocky Top Trail together.
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20230704_080718Clodius paranssian

More flowers awaited along the 0.7 climb to the former lookout site atop Rocky Top.
IMG_3313Columbine

IMG_3315Beardstongue

IMG_3319Lupine

IMG_3320The road from the trail. The taller, rounded, peak in the center is Sardine Mountain (post). Sardine Mountain Road has yet to reopen after the 2020 fire.

IMG_3321Mt. Washington and the Three Sisters.

We decide the primary cause of the haze was smoke from the Tunnel 5 Fire on the Washington side of the Columbia River across from Hood River with the fires in Canada most likely adding their own smoke to the mix. The hazy view didn’t bother us though as the wildflowers and abundant pollinators held our attention.
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IMG_3331Mt. Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington and the Three Sisters.

IMG_3332Mt. Jefferson through the haze.

IMG_3334Elkhorn Ridge (post) with Mt. Hood in the distance to the right. Elkhorn Ridge and Opal Creek Wilderness beyond were severely impacted by the fire and remain closed for now.

IMG_3335Mt. Hood above ridges of burned forest.

IMG_3337The loss of the trees did result in better views of the various rock formations in the area.

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IMG_3346We’d never seen so many of these eight-spotted forester moths.

IMG_3349Hummingbird taking a rest from visiting the penstemon and paintbrush.

IMG_3354Another moth that had some excellent camo.

IMG_3355The moth putting its camouflage to use.

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20230704_082644Penstemon

20230704_082957Rose

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IMG_3383Rocky Top from the trail.

IMG_3389This was the only pink colored penstemon we spotted.

IMG_3390Lupine and beargrass

IMG_3393Not sure which of the Lycaenidae this is but it was pretty.

IMG_3395The spirea was popular.

IMG_3399Bumble bee

IMG_3404At one point it looked like Three Fingered Jack was sitting on top of Coffin Mountain (post).

IMG_3408Nice blue sky overhead.

IMG_3409Looking North. Henline Mountain (post) is the high peak on the other side of Elkhorn Ridge.

IMG_3416Bistort and penstemon

IMG_3421Haven’t been able to identify this one yet.

20230704_084110Beargrass

IMG_3424A snowberry checkerspot and some fried avalanche lilies.

IMG_3427The trail wound behind Rocky Top to come up the West ridge to the summit.

IMG_3428Arnica

IMG_3432Sub-alpine mariposa lily

IMG_3438Tiger lily and beardstongue

20230704_085311Catchfly

There was a 360-degree view from the summit which was of course impacted by the smoke. On a clear day we would have been able to see Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens in Washington but we settled for a string of Oregon Cascades and Mary’s Peak in the Coast Range.
IMG_3462Not sure what the story is behind this chair, but we weren’t about to test its stability.

IMG_3463Detroit Lake

IMG_3460Mary’s Peak (post) is really hard to make out, but it is on the far left of the horizon.

IMG_3468Looking North we could see Table Rock (post), the high point in the center, behind Henline Mountain closer and to the left and Elkhorn Ridge nearest.

IMG_3469Closer look at Table Rock.

IMG_3477Henline Mountain, Table Rock, Mt. Hood, in front and just to the right of Mt. Hood is Whetstone Mountain (post) and the two humps in the distance to the far right are North and South Dickey Peaks.

IMG_3472Mountain bluebird checking us out.

IMG_3454Mt. Jefferson

IMG_3457Three Fingered Jack behind Coffin Mountain, Maxwell Butte (post), Mt. Washington, the Three Sisters, and The Husband.

While we were at the summit we spotted another car driving up the road to the trailhead so after a nice break we headed back to let the next visitor(s) have their turn.
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IMG_3496Zerene fritillary

IMG_3500Beargrass

IMG_3507Moth and a checkerspot

We passed the couple from the car about halfway down the trail. It would be the only other hikers we would pass on the trails this day. (We did see a few others but not on the trails.)
The road walk between trailheads was a butterfly bonanza. The road was now in full sunlight and that had brought out hundreds of butterflies and moths.
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IMG_3515A bee, a moth, and a butterfly land on some flowers…

IMG_3522Painted lady

IMG_3525Fireweed Clearwing Moth (Albuna pyramidalis).

IMG_3531A fritillary and a copper.

IMG_3533Two coppers and a bee.

IMG_3536Checkerspots, a bee, a copper and part of an eight-spotted forester moth.

IMG_3539Eight-spotted forester moth.

IMG_3540The previous four photos were all from this group of Oregon sunshine.

IMG_3547Bleeding heart, no butterfly but a nice group of blossoms.

IMG_3548More moths and butterflies.

IMG_3553Swallowtail on penstemon

IMG_3555One of the blues I think, but not sure which.

IMG_3556Lorquin’s admiral

With the road walk included our hike here came in at 6.4 miles with a little over 1800′ of cumulative elevation gain.

We headed back toward Salem and turned into the North Santiam State Recreation Area (3.8 miles West of Mill City or 28.6 miles East of Salem along Highway 22.) While this is a State Recreation Area Marion County is managing the park through at least 2024 following the 2020 fire. Reeder described a 2.3-mile loop here but we weren’t sure what we’d find with limited information available online. We parked near the day-use picnic area and followed the sidewalk left past a large signboard for the campground to a small “Trail” sign.
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We turned onto a wide mowed path and followed it into the fire scar which was hosting masses of very tall fireweed.
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IMG_3566Sparrow

IMG_3568Stellar’s jay

We almost missed the spur trail to the larger loop which was unsigned and hidden by some brush.
IMG_3575The spur trail is to the right just ahead.

We turned right onto the spur and quickly came to a “T” junction where we turned right following a “To River” sign.
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IMG_3581We watched a norther flicker fly into the snag ahead and it took a minute to figure out where he was.

IMG_3584The flicker

At the river the trail curved right following it to the camping area.
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IMG_3594Trailing blackberries. We might have found a few ripe ones.

IMG_3597Arriving at the camping area.

IMG_3599North Santaim River

We continued on what was now a paved path to a road
IMG_3602Oregon grape

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IMG_3605Mock orange

IMG_3607The boat launch.

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IMG_3614North Santiam River

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It was a lot cooler by the river than it was on the paths so we lingered for a bit before heading back to the loop. Prior to the fire the loop crossed the road to the boat launch and continued in the forest eventually crossing the park entrance road and completing the loop near the “To River” sign. We quickly discovered that the loop no longer existed on the north side of the roads. We up the boat launch road past the trail we arrived on then past the park host. We could have just turned right at the parking lot, but we decided to see if any of the loop remained. A short way up the entrance road we spotted paint for a crosswalk.
IMG_3618The park host on the left and the parking lot on the right.

IMG_3620Crosswalk for the pre-fire loop.

IMG_3621Looking North from the crosswalk there was zero sign of the former trail.

IMG_3622They had at least restored this short section of the loop so we were able to return to the spur trail and turn right then right again to complete the inner loop.

IMG_3625The “To River” sign at the spur trail junction.

IMG_3628Possibly a western wood pee-wee

IMG_3629Spotted towhee

IMG_3633Osprey

IMG_3634The park host from the trail.

The loop as we did it is now only 1.7-miles with 50′ of elevation gain.

The park wasn’t as crowded as we thought it might be on a hot holiday and there was no one else hiking the trails here. It was a nice enough end to a good day hiking and we had finished just after Noon so we had avoided the hottest parts of the day. To be honest we hadn’t expected a whole lot from any of these hikes and had chosen them primarily for their proximity to Salem, but the Natural Rock Arch and Rocky Top far exceeded our expectations. We were home around 1pm and had the rest of the afternoon to relax with the cats. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Natural Rock Arch, Rocky Top, and North Santiam Park

Categories
Hiking Oregon Roseburg Area Trip report Willamette Valley

Fern Falls and Comstock Day Use Area – 06/25/23

We spent the night in Roseburg after making the long drive from Salem to Marial for a day hike along the Rogue River (post) and on the way home we made a couple of stops. Our plan involved portions of two of Sullivan’s featured hikes. Because we’d done one of the options for each of the hikes we had checked them off our to-do list, but we didn’t want to pass up the chance to do the additional options.

Our first stop involved a short out-and-back to Fern Falls along the North Umpqua Trail. In his Fall Creek Falls hike Sullivan provides two options, the hike to Fall Creek Falls (post) or three stops including Fall Creek Falls, Susan Creek Falls (post), and Fern Falls.

It took a bit of research online to figure out if the section of the North Umpqua Trail to Fern Falls was actually open. The area burned in the 2020 Archie Creek Fire closing the lower sections of the trail. The first few miles are managed by the BLM before the Forest Service takes over at the Umpqua National Forest boundary. The Forest Service has not lifted their closure order but it wasn’t clear whether or not the BLM had reopened their portion. Since there was no information on the BLM site stating that the trail was closed and several people had posted recent trip reports on Alltrails we decided to give it a try and drove to the Swiftwater Trailhead along the North Umpqua River.
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There was no closure order posted at the trailhead and a couple of fishermen had beaten us to the parking area so we set off on the trail.
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IMG_2248Fireweed

At the quarter-mile mark we forked right on a spur trail to an interpretive sign overlooking Deadline Falls.
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IMG_2262Deadline Falls

After admiring the falls we returned to the North Umpqua Trail and continued on through the fire scar.
IMG_2268Signs of ongoing trail work.

IMG_2273Northern phlox

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IMG_2279Remains of a footbridge lost to the Archie Creek Fire.

IMG_2280The current creek crossing. We joked that this was a prime difference between the BLM and Forest Service. It feels like the Forest Service waits until everything has been repaired (plus a year or two) before reopening trails after a fire while the BLM reopens them once they are passable.

IMG_2282Self-heal

IMG_2295The trailing blackberries were ripening along the trail providing us with a nice second breakfast.

IMG_2296North Umpqua River from the trail.

IMG_2302We also spotted a few ripe blackcap raspberries.

IMG_2310Bleeding heart

IMG_2314Crab spider on a California harebell.

IMG_2317Heather was really excited to find ripe thimbleberries too.

IMG_2323Highway 138 on the far side of the river.

Approximately 1.7 miles from the trailhead we arrived at Fern Falls.
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A fallen log dissected the view of the falls, a result of the fire but it was a nice view and a good turn around point.
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IMG_2338Musk monkeyflower

IMG_2340I managed to pull a ripe salmonberry out of this bush below Fern Falls.

We returned the way we’d come under increasing sunlight. Birds had been singing all morning and with the increased light we were finally able to spot some of them.
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20230625_071045Moth

IMG_2350Lazuli bunting

IMG_2365Black-headed grosbeak

IMG_2368Unidentified small bird.

IMG_2376Wren, possibly a house wren.

IMG_2378This little one was way up atop a snag. Merlin suggests it’s a Macgillivray’s warbler.

IMG_2381Woodpecker

IMG_2386Backside of a Stellar’s jay.

IMG_2388Raven

Our hike here came to 3.4 miles with maybe 300′ of elevation gain.

We hopped into the car and drove to our next stop at the Comstock Day Use Area for the BLM managed North Bank Habitat Management Area.
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We had visited the area in 2015 starting a loop from the West Access Trailhead. We planned another loop from this trailhead which would share a 1.2-mile section of that earlier loop.
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We began by passing a green gate at the NW end (left) of the trailhead parking area and following an old roadbed for 0.1-miles to a fork.
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We stayed right on the signed Soggy Bottom Trail.
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We followed the Soggy Bottom Trail for 0.7 miles to the Middle Barn.
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20230625_081411Checker-mallow

IMG_2412Turkey vulture

IMG_2419We spotted a deer way up on the hillside in the distance.

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IMG_2422Heading down to Soggy Bottom.

IMG_2425Middle Barn

We stayed right past a road to the barn and continued to the next fork and turned left on the North Gate Trail.
IMG_2428Soggy Bottom

IMG_2430Bindweed

IMG_2431The North Gate Trail ahead on the left.

IMG_2433North Gate Trail

20230625_082841Elegant brodiaea

IMG_2435Common wood nymph

The trail climbed steadily for the first three quarters of a mile passing a grove of cedars near the end of the stretch.
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IMG_2441

IMG_2445The cedar grove.

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IMG_2449A little past the cedar grove we passed an old structure on the opposite side of a barbed wire fence.

IMG_2451On the far side of the structure was a sign for the Wrong Way Trail which looked as though it saw little to no use. The map at the trailhead showed this trail dead-ending in the forest which might explain why.

Beyond the Wrong Way Trail junction the North Gate Trail began a much steeper climb up to a junction at a saddle with the Middle Ridge Trail.
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Much of this section was in full sunlight making it a bit of a trudge.
IMG_2463View from the North Gate Trail.

IMG_2464Steepest section of the trail but at least there was some shade here.

IMG_2467Gopher snake

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IMG_2472Trail sign at the saddle.

We turned left on the Middle Ridge Trail for 1.2 semi-familiar miles.
IMG_2473The Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2474View from the Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2476View from the saddle.

IMG_2484A dip along the ridge.

IMG_2490First view of the North Umpqua River.

IMG_2503Hawk on a tree.

IMG_2505A different hawk in flight.

IMG_2507Elegant brodiaea

IMG_2512Looking back along the Middle Ridge Trail.

IMG_2513We remembered this structure in the ground.

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Approximately 1.2 miles from the saddle we arrived at a junction with the Thistle Ridge Trail.
IMG_2525Approaching the junction.

IMG_2526View back up along the trail.

IMG_2528Whistlers Bend Reservoir and the North Umpqua River. Despite a bit of haze the view was far better than it had been in 2015.

North Umpqua River from North Bank HabitatThe 2015 view on a cloudy June 5th.

We turned onto the Thistle Ridge Trail which led us past a few great madrone trees.
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IMG_2538Ookow

IMG_2539View from the Thistle Ridge Trail. Below is the lower portion of the trail which seemed to be quite a way down.

We quickly realized why it seemed so far down when we came to what we believe may be the steepest section of trail we’ve hiked.
IMG_2542When you can’t see the bottom of the hill you know it’s steep.

IMG_2546The trail finally leveled out a bit through a stand of oak trees.

After just under a mile on the Thistle Ridge Trail we came to a junction with the West Barn Road.
IMG_2547The junction below from the Thistle Ridge Trail.

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We turned left again and followed this steepish trail down 0.2 miles to the West Barn.
IMG_2553European centaury (invasive but pretty)

IMG_2555West Barn

IMG_2558The West Barn Road was a little muddy in spots.

We followed this road a total of 0.7 miles back to the junction with the Soggy Bottom Trail where we turned right to return to the trailhead.
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IMG_2563Daisies were profuse in some areas.

IMG_2567We ignored the Deer Hollow Tie Trail that joined on the right.

IMG_2568The Comstock Day Use Area from the West Barn Road.

Our loop here came to 5 miles with a little over 1000′ of elevation gain, some of which was impressively steep.

The trails here were lined with poison oak at times but they were always wide enough for us to easily keep away from it.

These were a couple of pleasant hikes and made for a nice outing before driving back home to Salem. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Fern Falls and North Bank Habitat

Categories
Grants Pass Area Hiking Oregon Trip report

Rogue River Trail Marial to Paradise Lodge – 06/24/23

At the beginning of May we spent a week in Grants Pass completing several of Sullivan’s featured hikes. Our attempt to hike a section of the Rogue River Trail out of Marial during that trip ended with us being turned back by lingering snow on the BLM roads to the trailhead (post). We rescheduled that hike for the end of June which was now upon us. At just over four hours this was too long a drive for a day hike so we’d made reservations in Roseburg for that night. We followed the BLM’s driving directions from Glendale to the Rogue River Ranch National Historic Site and then continued on BLM Road 32-9-14.2 (Mule Creek-Marial Road on Google Maps) for another mile. Just past a large parking area on the left for the Marial Lodge is where Sullivan suggest parking, but a sign at the entrance stated it was for overnight guests of the lodge only. The actual trailhead for the Rogue River Trail is at the end of the road, another half mile away so we continued on what quickly became a much rougher road. Less than a tenth of a mile was enough for us and we parked across from the Mule Creek Fireman Station in a small two car parking area.
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From the fireman station we walked the road to the official trailhead.
IMG_1975There were trail pointers at spur roads to ensure we stayed on the right one.

IMG_1978The trailhead near Marial. I couldn’t find any directions online for this trailhead which is why we used a combination of the BLM’s directions to the ranch and Sullivan’s to the trailhead.

We followed trail signs downhill and into the Wild Rogue Wilderness.
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Shortly after entering the wilderness the trail arrived at Rogue River.
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The trail passed along the rocky cliffs above Mule Creek Canyon. We had hoped to see some rafters navigating this narrow canyon, including the Coffee Pot rapids, but there weren’t any around.
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IMG_1997Dragonfly

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IMG_2010A peak into Mule Creek Canyon.

IMG_2016There weren’t many flowers left blooming but we did see a lot of elegant brodiaea.

IMG_2021Elegant brodiaea

After following the trail for 0.7 miles we arrived at Inspiration Point across from Stair Creek Falls.
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IMG_2029Mule Creek Canyon from Inspiration Point.

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We spent a good deal of time admiring the falls. This was our fifth hike along the Rogue River and of those hikes this was one of our favorite views.

We continued on passing above a much calmer river, at least for a moment.
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IMG_2043Skipper

IMG_2045Common wood-nymph

IMG_2046Paintbrush

IMG_2052Calmer waters.

IMG_2055Madrone

IMG_2056Salal

The trail alternated between rocky cliffs and brushy vegetation. Poison oak was common among the plants along the trail but there was enough room to pass through without coming into contact.
IMG_2057Some poison oak on the right.

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IMG_2068Another madrone at the start of more brush. This area was full of small birds that turned out to be bushtits.

IMG_2074It took a bit to get one of the bushtits out in the open and in the camera frame.

Near the 2-mile mark we got our first view of the boulders at Blossom Bar, the trickiest rapid along the Rogue River.
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IMG_2084Blossom Bar Rapid

Near Blossom Bar the trail crosses Burns and Blossom Creeks in quick succession.
IMG_2089Footbridge over Burns Creek.

IMG_2095Footbridge over Blossom Creek.

IMG_2096Blossom Creek

After crossing the creeks the trail climbed above the river where a spur trail to the left led downhill to Gleason Bar.
IMG_2105Trail crossing Blossom Bar.

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IMG_2108Rogue River leaving Blossom Bar.

IMG_2110Trail to Gleason Bar on the left.

We detoured down to Gleason Bar where we were greeted by a lizard.
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Variable-leaf collomiaVariable-leaf collomia

We returned to the trail and continued West making our way to another footbridge, this one crossing Paradise Creek.
IMG_2131Bear box near Gleason Bar. We didn’t see any bears on our hike but we did have a bear cub run in front of our car on the drive to the trailhead.

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On the far side of the footbridge we detoured down to the creek to get a view of the small waterfall named Devils Stairs.
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We followed a path along Paradise Bar paralleling the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2144Paradise Bar

After a tenth of a mile the Paradise Bar airstrip came into view. Sullivan had mentioned detouring left at the airstrip 200 yards to visit the Paradise Lodge, but a sign here stated that the lodge and property were only open to overnight guests with reservations.
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Not sure if this is a recent change, a result of COVID or if we misinterpreted the sign, but we veered right to get back onto the Rogue River Trail.
IMG_2148The trail skirted the grassy airstrip before entering the forest.

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Paradise Lodge was the turn around point for Sullivan’s featured hike, but we decided to continue on until we got one more view of the river.
IMG_2159Jackson Creek. Most if not all of the creeks had signs letting us know their names.

IMG_2161Some of the buildings related to Paradise Lodge.

Across the river was another lodge, the Half Moon Bar Lodge.
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IMG_2165Rafters and kayakers passing through Half Moon Riffle.

IMG_2171One of Jerry’s Rogue Jets out of Gold Beach. These boats turn around at Blossom Bar Rapids.

We turned around above Half Moon Bar, approximately 4 miles from the official trailhead.
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We stuck to the Rogue River Trail on the way back, keeping our eyes out for snakes (again no rattlesnakes despite this being a prime area for them) and lizards.
IMG_2182Alligator lizard

IMG_2187Wine-cup clarkia

IMG_2207A few fluffy clouds moving in.

IMG_2221Stair Creek Falls on the way back.

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IMG_2234Mule Creek Canyon

Our hike came in at 9.8 miles with only 250′ of elevation gain, but we felt the heat (mid to upper 80’s) which made the hike feel quite a bit harder than it looked on paper.

We had left open the possibility of stopping at the Rogue River Ranch on our way to Roseburg but by the time we had gotten changed at the car all we wanted to do was get to our motel and then find a Dairy Queen for some ice cream so that’s what we did. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Rogue River West

Categories
Hells Canyon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam – 06/16/2023

For the final day of hiking on our vacation we had two of Sullivan’s featured hikes on tap, Hells Canyon Reservoir and Hells Canyon Dam. We left our motel in Enterprise and drove the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to Oxbow. Our first stop was at Copper Creek where a short hike would take us into the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
IMG_1610The smoke that had moved in the day before was still around.

A small post directed us to the trail.
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The next post read “Trail Not Maintained Hazards May Exist”
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We weren’t sure what to expect, but we hoped it wouldn’t be another poison ivy filled hike like Wednesday’s hike at Eureka Bar (post) and that we would at least be able to make it to McGraw Creek which was 1.8 miles away.

IMG_1615Toadflax

A short distance from the trailhead we entered a signed wilderness study area.
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IMG_1621Fleabane

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IMG_1638There were lots of fish visible in the reservoir.

The tread on the trail wasn’t great but poison ivy wasn’t an issue which was nice.
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IMG_1643Penstemon

IMG_1649Showy milkweed

After approximately three quarters of a mile we entered the Hells Canyon Wilderness.
Hells Canyon Wilderness Boundary

At the 0.9-mile mark we crossed Nelson Creek.
IMG_1658Approaching Nelson Creek.

IMG_1660Nelson Creek

Red-eyed vireoRed-eyed vireo

IMG_1672Looking up Nelson Creek.

IMG_1676More fish.

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IMG_1686Lazuli bunting

We made it to the outwash plain of McGraw Creek where the trail turned inland.
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We made it another 100 yards before coming to a missing section of trail.
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We weren’t comfortable with trying to continue. There was a faint path climbing uphill that might have taken us past the missing section but we didn’t feel the need to push it and turned around.
IMG_1698McGraw Creek

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IMG_1710Lizard

IMG_1718Common wood nymph

IMG_1721Moth

Cabbage whitesCabbage whites

IMG_1735Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_1741Copper Creek Trailhead from the trail.

After completing our hike here we drove back to Oxbow and crossed the Snake River into Idaho and headed north to the Hells Canyon Dam. Sullivan’s featured hike here includes two separate options, a 2.4 mile hike to a beach just beyond Stud Creek on the Oregon side of the river and a shorter hike on the Idaho side on the Deep Creek Stairway Trail. This is the only featured hike located in the state of Idaho and we had planned to do this hike first, but the trailhead parking lot was busy with fishermen heading toward the trail. The trail consists of a series of metal stairs and catwalks leading down to the bottom of the dam near Deep Creek and we weren’t too keen on being in a crowd so we drove on across the dam to the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor Center.
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The trail here starts near the boat ramp where an interpretive sign announces the former site of a prehistoric pit house.
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IMG_1755The start of the trail.

This trail was in better shape than the one along Hells Canyon Reservoir, but it was a wild mix of wooden stairs, rocky cliffs, and scenic viewpoints.
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IMG_1761Penstemon

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IMG_1788Western clematis

IMG_1791We watched an osprey dive for a fish in the river.

IMG_1792It pulled a small fish out of the water.

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IMG_1805Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_1820Rafters that had set off from the dam.

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20230616_110757Ant in a sagebrush mariposa lily.

IMG_1832Monkeyflower and heart-leaved bittercress

IMG_1834View near Stud Creek.

We didn’t see any water in Stud Creek’s outwash plain but there were a number of differently colored mariposa lilies.
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Our turnaround point was a white cobble beach where fish occasionally jumped.
IMG_1850Cobble Beach near Stud Creek

IMG_1852Jet boat passing by.

After a short break we returned to the visitor center which we checked out before driving back across the dam.
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IMG_1898Interpretive sign near the visitors center.

IMG_1899Hells Canyon Creek

IMG_1905View from the visitors center.

We were still hoping to stop a the Deep Creek Stairway Trail and as luck would have it all but one of the cars that had been at the trailhead when we drove by earlier were gone.
IMG_1908The empty trailhead parking area.

A short road walk led us to the start of the trail.
IMG_1912The structure on the right is an old fish trap.

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IMG_1917This was only our second hike in Idaho (Jump Creek Falls was the first), and the first in one of Idaho’s National Forests.

IMG_1919The Payette National Forest manages this trail.

The trail began by heading briefly down a staircase and then climbing another set of stairs.
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IMG_1927Going up.

IMG_1930Snake River from the trail.

IMG_1931Going back down.

IMG_1934There were a couple of dirt/rock sections, but the trail was mostly metal stairs and catwalks.

We passed the owner of the remaining car, Ahmed, heading up with a pair of good-sized fish.
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IMG_1938Ahmed’s fishing pole was still out, and you might notice a little red to the left of the structure ahead.

Heather decided not to go all the way down to Deep Creek but I wanted to see it so I followed the trail to its bank.
IMG_1941There was a very short scramble to get up to the continuation of the trail above the structure along the creek.

IMG_1943A few patches of snow in the Payette National Forest.

IMG_1945Deep Creek

I was greeted at the creek by a rock covered with different butterflies.
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It was a hot, tiring climb back up to the car where we changed, grabbed some drinks and snacks, and got ready to drive to Pendleton where we would spend the night before driving back home.
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These three hikes came in at 3.7, 2.6, and 1.0 mile respectively. Hells Canyon Reservoir had over 500′ of elevation gain while the final two were under 200′ although the staircase felt like more.

We were thankful that poison ivy was a non-issue on these hikes. They were all enjoyable but given the rough condition of the Hells Canyon Reservoir Trail we wouldn’t recommend that one for kids or inexperienced hikers.

With the vacation hikes now over, we had made just a little progress on finishing 100 featured hikes from one of Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon guidebook editions (post). We had been at 79/100 heading into the vacation whith plans on completing six more but our decision to skip Dug Bar and change the edition that we were focused on meant adding five featured hikes that we hadn’t done and losing a couple that we had. Instead of sitting at 85/100 at the end of the vacation we are currently at 80/100. We’ve already worked the five new featured hikes into our plans over the next 18 months so we are still on track to be finished by the end of 2024. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Hells Canyon Reservoir and Dam