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Eastern Oregon

Back in 2016 we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks post. In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post). Southern Oregon & Northern California was completed in 2023 leaving us with Eastern Oregon.

In 2023 we pivoted from the 3rd edition of Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” to his renamed 2022 1st edition “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” book. This was to avoid needing to make the tedious drive on horrible roads to Dug Bar in Hells Canyon which had been replaced as a featured hike in the newer edition.

The criteria for checking a hike off our list is to hike a portion of Sullivan’s described hike or, at least visit the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 67 of the hikes we completed the books described route. For the other 33 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing every option of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had additional options that we did not do.

Of the five regions Sullivan breaks his guidebooks into, the Eastern Oregon region is the largest and most diverse. The area covered in this book includes hikes in Oregon east of the Deschutes River in Central Oregon and from Klamath Falls (western most hike) east to the Idaho border. There is however one hike in Washington west of the Deschutes across the Columbia River from The Dalles, OR.  It also includes one short option in Idaho (eastern most), one featured hike in California (southern most) making it his only book with hikes in more than two different States. The northern most hike is not the one in Washington. That  honor belongs to the Wenaha River near Troy in NE Oregon.

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The hikes involved several wilderness areas: Oregon Badlands, Mill Creek, Spring Basin, Strawberry Mountain, North Fork John Day, North Fork Umatilla, Wenaha-TucannonEagle Cap, Hells Canyon, Monument Rock, and Steens Mountain. Missing from this list are the Black Canyon (post) and Gearhart Mountain (post) wilderness areas which had featured hikes in earlier versions of Sullivan’s book that we’d completed, but were removed in the 2022 edition due to wildfire damage.

In addition to the 11 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments, the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument in Oregon and the Lava Beds National Monument in California, and one National Volcanic Monument, the Newberry National Volcanic Monument.

Following is a list of the 100 featured hikes and the dates we visited.

#1 Cottonwood Canyon – Hiked 5/27/2017
John Day River

#2 Columbia Hills – Hiked 4/4/2015 & 4/17/2021
Eightmile Creek Trail

#3 Lower Deschutes River – Hiked 6/9/2018
Deschutes River

#4 Macks Canyon – Hiked 5/26/2018
Deschutes River

#5 Criterion Tract – Hiked 05/28/2023
Deschutes River

#6 Trout Creek – Hiked 10/12/2013
Deschutes River

#7 Willow Creek at Madras – Hiked 5/27/2024
Willow Creek Trail

#8 Cove Palisades – Hiked 6/16/2018
The Island

#9 Gray Butte – Hiked 6/13/2015
Smith Rock State Park from the summit above Burma Road

#10 Oregon Badlands – Hiked 5/15/2016 & 12/24/2016
Flatiron Rock Trail

#11 Pine Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2012
Summit of Pine Mountain

#12 Paulina Falls – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Falls

#13 Paulina Lake – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Peak from the hot springs

#14 Obsidian Flow – Hiked 8/9/2011
East Lake and the Big Obsidian Flow

#15 Crooked River Wetlands – Hiked 5/29/2024
Crooked River Wetlands Complex

#16 Chimney Rock – Hiked 9/22/2017
Chimney Rock

#17 Steins Pillar – Hiked 5/8/2013
Steins Pillar

#18 Juniper Hill – Visited* 5/27/2024
Painted hills at Juniper Hills Preserve

#19 Mill Creek – Hiked 7/31/2012
Twin Pillars

#20 Lookout Mountain – Hiked 6/12/2014
Sagebrush meadows on Lookout Mountain

#21 Walton Lake – Hiked 6/17/2017 & 6/18/2021
Walton Lake

#22 Spring Basin – Hiked 4/22/2017
Biscuitroot and hedghog cactus in the Spring Basin Wilderness

#23 John Day Fossil Beds – Hiked 4/30/2016, 4/22/2017 & 9/17/2017
Painted HIllsPainted Hills Unit

Clarno Unit - John Day Fossil BedsClarno Unit

View from the Blue Basin Overlook TrailBlue Basin Unit

#24 Sutton Mountain – Hiked 4/30/2016
Sutton Mountain Rim

#25 Spanish Peak – Hiked 7/19/2021 & 7/20/2021
Spanish Peak from the Ochoco Mountain Trail

#26 Madison Butte – Hiked 5/28/2024
Madison Butte from the Madison Butte Trail

#27 Wildcat Basin – Hiked 7/24/2018
Volcanic ash along the Pine Creek Traii

#28 High Lake – Hiked 7/26/2018
High Lake

#29 Strawberry Lake – Hiked 7/25/2018
Strawberry Mountain

#30 Malheur River – Hiked 6/17/2021
Malheur River Trail

#31 Canyon Mountain – Hiked 7/22/2021
Canyon Mountain Trail

#32 Monument Rock – Hiked 7/21/2021
Cairn on Monument Rock

#33 Bates and Sumpter – Hiked 9/17/2017
Sumpter Valley Dredge

#34 Olive Lake – Hiked 9/18/2017
Olive Lake

#35 Granite Creek – Hiked 9/21/2017
Granite Creek Trail

#36 North Fork John Day River – Hiked 9/19/2017
North Fork John Day River Trail

#37 Mount Ireland – Hiked 7/9/2022
Mountain goat below the Mt. Ireland Lookout

#38 Baldy Lake – Hiked 9/20/2017
Baldy Lake

#39 Crawfish Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
The Lakes Lookout from Crawfish Lake

#40 Anothony Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
Hoffer Lake number one

#41 Elkhorn Crest – Hiked 8/12/2018, 8/13/2018, 8/14/2018, 8/15/2018 & 08/16/2018
Rock Creek Lake

#42 Twin Lakes – Hiked 8/13/2018
Mountain goat passing by camp

#43 North Fork Umatilla River – Hiked 6/14/2021
North Fork Umatilla River

#44 Jubilee Lake – Hiked 9/12/2021
Jubilee Lake

#45 Wenaha River – Hiked 5/25/2019
Wenaha River Trail

#46 Zumwalt Prairie – Hiked 5/26/2019
Wallowa Mountains from the Horned Lark Trail

#47 Buckhorn Lookout – Hiked 6/15/2023
Prickly pear cactus

#48 Eureka Bar – Hiked 6/14/2023
Snake River in the distance from the Imnaha Trail

#49 Hat Point – Hiked 7/21/2024
Hat Point Lookout

#50 Freezeout Saddle – Hiked 5/24/2019
Looking into Hells Canyon from the Summit Ridge Trail

#51 Hells Canyon Dam – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail along the Snake River

#52 Hells Canyon Reservoir – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail 1890

#53 Imnaha Falls – Hiked 6/12/2023
View from the Imnaha River Trail

#54 Bonny Lakes – Hiked 7/24/2024
Lower Bonny Lake

#55 McCully Basin – Hiked 7/23/2024
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#56 Mount Howard – Hiked 7/26/2024
Royal Purple Overlook

#57 Aneroid Lake – Hiked 8/22/2024
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#58 Wallowa Lake – Hiked 5/23/2019
B.C. Creek FallsB.C. Falls

#59 Ice Lake – Hiked 7/31/2016
Ice Lake

#60 Horseshoe Lake – Hiked 8/3/2016 & 8/04/2016
Horseshoe Lake

#61 Hurricane Creek – Hiked 7/22/2024
Slick Rock Falls

#62 Eagle Cap – Hiked 8/3/2016
Eagle Cap from Mirror Lake

#63 Minam Lake – Hiked 7/25/2024
Minam Lake

#64 Maxwell Lake – Hiked 8/21/2024
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#65 Chimney Lake – Hiked 8/20/2024
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#66 Wallowa Homeland – Hiked 7/14/2022
Gazebo on Tick Hill along the Wallowa Homeland Trail

#67 Bear Creek – Hiked 7/14/2022
Bear Creek

#68 Rock Springs – Hiked 7/11/2022
View from the Rock Springs Trail

#69 Moss Springs – Hiked 7/13/2022
Red's Horse Ranch

#70 Catherine Creek Meadows – Hiked 7/10/2022
Catherine Creek Meadows

#71 Burger Pass – Hiked 7/12/2022
Burger Butte from the Elk Creek Trail

#72 Tombstone Lake – Hiked 8/16/2023 & 8/17/2023
Tombstone Lake

#73 Eagle Lake – Hiked 8/13/2023
Eagle Lake

#74 Bear Lake – Hiked 8/14/2023
Bear Lake

#75 Hidden Lake – Hiked 9/9/2024
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#76 Summit Point Lookout – Hiked 8/18/2024
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#77 Pine Lakes – Hiked 8/19/2024
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#78 Fort Rock – Hiked 6/14/2014 & 5/28/2017
Fort Rock

#79 Fort Rock Valley – Hiked 5/28/2017
Crack in the Ground

#80 Hager Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2013 & 6/14/2014
Hager Mountain Trail

#81 Summer Lake – Hiked 7/24/2020
White faced ibis

#82 Winter Ridge – Hiked 7/19/2020
Summer Lake from Winter Ridge

#83 OC&E Railroad – Hiked 10/5/2018
Devil's Garden

#84 Klamath Falls – Hiked 10/20/2018
Klamath Wingwatcher Nature Trail

#85 Modoc Lava Beds – Hiked 10/6/2018
Mount Dome from Schonchin Butte Trail

#86 DeGarmo Canyon – Hiked 7/22/2020
Waterfall on DeGarmo Creek

#87 Hart Mountain Hot Springs – Hiked 7/21/2020
DeGarmo Notch

#88 Petroglyph Lake – Hiked 7/22/2020
Petroglyphs around Petroglyph Lake

#89 Steens Summit – Hiked 8/18/2021
Wildhorse Lake Trail

#90 Little Blitzen River – Hiked 8/19/2021
Little Blitzen Trail

#91 Big Indian Gorge – Hiked 8/17/2021
Big Indian Gorge

#92 Threemile Canyon – Hiked 9/3/2023
Sunflowers in Threemile Canyon

#93 Pike Creek – Hiked 6/14/2018
Steens Mountain from the Pike Creek Trail

#94 Big Sand Gap – Hiked 6/14/2018
Big Sand Gap

#95 Borax Hot Springs – Hiked 6/14/2018
Borax Lake

#96 Pueblo Mountains – Hiked 8/20/2021
Oregon Desert Trail in the Pueblo Mountains

#97 Leslie Gulch – Hiked 6/11/2018
Timber Gulch

#98 Coffeepot Crater – Hiked 6/11/2018
Coffee Pot Crater

#99 Chalk Basin – Hiked 6/13/2018
Chalk Basin

#100 Three Forks – Hiked 6/12/2018
Warm spring pools

*The Juniper Hills Preserve is owned by the Nature Conservancy and had been closed to public entry in 2023, so we were unable to hike the trails. We parked and walked to the gates to take photos. If they ever reopen it to the public we will go back.

Completing our featured hike goals provided a sense of relief. While we thoroughly enjoyed all of the hikes, and the Wallowa Mountains became our favorite destination in Oregon, we had begun to put pressure on ourselves to finish. That pressure had begun following the September 2020 wildfires that ravaged parts of the Central Cascades and left many trails closed for years. We had just finished the featured hikes in that area earlier that year and realized how close we’d come to having to put our goal on hold. In the grand scheme of things reaching 500 featured hikes is irrelevant but having worked on it for several years it was something we didn’t want to abandon. We will gig deeper into that in a later post covering finishing the 500, but it’s nice to have the urgency to get to specific places removed.

Setting the goal did provide us with an excuse to visit parts of Oregon that we’d never seen before. While we were checking off the 100 featured hikes we stopped at over three dozen additional spots including eight previously featured hikes. There are still numerous trails left for us to explore so we will almost certainly be heading back to Eastern Oregon from time to time to see new sights and possibly revisit some familiar ones. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking Oregon SE Oregon Trip report

Pueblo Mountains – 08/20/2021

We had a long day planned for the final day of our trip to SE Oregon. We were starting off by doing Sullivan’s Pueblo Mountains hike (#96 in his “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” guidebook and we were going to attempt the long drive back to Salem (a 6 1/2 to 7 hour drive). We were a little nervous about getting to Sullivan’s starting point for his described 7.2 mile hike which follows a portion of the Oregon Desert Trail. He describes the final 2.2 miles of road as a “rocky, bumpy road”..”passable only by high-clearance vehicles”. Given where we were and the tire scare we’d had earlier in the week we decided that adding 4.4 miles of road walk round trip was okay with us so after turning right off of Highway 205 exactly three miles south of Fields we followed a decent gravel road 4.7 miles to a fork where we took the left most track a hundred yards or so to the first decent spot we could pull off and park at.

The Oregon Desert Trail is a 750 mile route doesn’t always follow a trail (or road or other discernible track).
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The section we would be hiking was guided by rock cairns with a couple of sections of what appeared to be actual tread but may also simply have been game/cattle trails that were going the same way. First we had to get to the start of the hike though so after a moment appreciating the desert sunrise we started up the rocky road.
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IMG_3473The view back along the road to the fork.

IMG_3475Road walk

IMG_3476Rabbit

There was a bit more smoke/haze on the horizon this morning than there had been for a few days and a red Sun rose in the east.
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After just under a mile the road made a 90 degree turn at a fence corner then crossed Sesena Creek, which was still flowing.
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IMG_3495A hawk in a dead tree above the springs feeding Sesena Creek.

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IMG_3504This was the only water we’d see all day.

We arrived at the grassy flat Sullivan described as the start of the hike. Sullivan listed 14 cairns along his hike starting with one here at the starting point but the rocks it had been comprised of were spread on the ground. We hoped that wasn’t a sign of things to come.
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IMG_3740The first cairn from later in the day.

Luckily Sullivan had supplied GPS coordinates both along the drive and for cairns 1, 5, 10, and 14 which I had entered into both our GPS units. From the road at cairn one we followed an old road bed through the sage brush toward the mountains.
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A little over half a mile along the road brought us to another grassy area, an old cow lick, where we veered left on a trail (cattle?) through the sagebrush.
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We could see the second cairn on a little rise ahead to our right and made our way towards it.
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Sullivan’s instructions beyond the cow lick were to “head cross-country up the leftmost branch of the valley and scramble up past a grove of shrub-sized mountain mahogany trees to find cairn #3”. We could see the mahogany trees and using binoculars and the zoom feature on the camera were able to spot what we assume to be cairn #3.
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From there the climb got steep fast and neither of us are sure we we ever saw cairn #4. Luckily we had the GPS coordinates for #5, which was 0.3 miles from #3, to keep us relatively on track.
IMG_3566View from cairn #3.

IMG_3565Looking back over the mahogany trees, the rise with cairn #2 and the cow lick.

IMG_3567Looking up the steep hillside.

IMG_3572On the climb up to #5.

Cairn #5 was said to be atop a 12′ rock in a saddle. There appeared to be more than one possible saddle though as we climbed and at the angle we were at we couldn’t see any 12′ rocks.
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I picked a saddle to aim for and arrived first but there was no cairn here.
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IMG_3577The view from the saddle.

I climbed up on a the rocks to the west of the saddle to see if I could see cairn #5 which, based on the GPS coordinates would have been a little to the SE and downhill from where I was.
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When Heather arrived we discussed the next stage our hike. Even though we couldn’t see #5 from where we were we could see another cairn atop a cliff on the hillside ahead of us.

We decided to contour up along the hillside heading for that cairn and as we came over a rise we spotted what must have been cairn #5.
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IMG_3587A kestral on a cairn.

The GPS coordinates were a little off but it fit the description of the fifth cairn pretty well.
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We continued heading uphill toward the cliff with what we believe was cairn #6.
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IMG_3593You can see Heather following me up on this “less” steep section.

As we neared the cliffs we spotted another cairn which was a lot easier to reach.
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IMG_3601Looking down into the haze in the east.

From the cairn with no number we could see another cairn perched atop a rock outcrop which we determined to be #7 since #8 was shown to be at a pass.
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IMG_3603Cairn #7 was being guarded by magpies.

Cairn #7 was uphill more than was necessary to reach the ridge beyond it so instead of heading directly for it we traversed the hillside below it.
IMG_3605View south over the Pueblo Mountains.

IMG_3607Passing below cairn #7 (upper right corner).

We found cairn #8 at the pass.
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IMG_3610View to the NW from the pass.

IMG_3612Pueblo Mountain (the large rounded peak) from the pass.

Heather was delayed reaching the pass due to spotting a sheep moth.
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Sullivan’s map was a little confusing from cairn #8 to cairn #9. The sketch appeared to show the route passing behind (on the west side of) a rise to cairns #9 & #10 and then arriving at cairn #11 at another pass. What we found was that it was easier to hike south on the ridge for two tenths of a mile where a much larger rock outcrop forced us off the ridge to the west.
IMG_3613We climbed this rise on the ridge and continued on the top for a bit.

Heather near cairn #8 in the saddle and cairn #7 on the hillside behind.

We didn’t cross over to the west side until we reached a much larger rock formation along the ridge.
IMG_3616Looking at the rocky cliffs that would force us to the west.

We were starting to notice actual tread along the ridge and when we reached the rocks a clear, albeit thin, trail could be seen traversing the hillside.
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IMG_3632It’s not a desert trail without bones.

As we approached the other end of the rock outcrop we spied cairn #9 on a hillside.
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IMG_3634Looking back

The tread disappeared in a small draw filled with sagebrush, but a little bushwhacking and a short steep climb got us to the cairn.
IMG_3636The sagebrush draw below (Heather is traversing the hillside.)

IMG_3635Cairn #9 and the view west.

For some reason cairn #10 was ahead and further DOWN the hillside. From cairn #9 we could see our goal for the day ahead, a high point on a ridge above the Oregon Desert Trail before it began a descent that would eventually lead to Denio, Nevada.
IMG_3637The next ridge is where the high point we were planning to turn around at was.

We made our way to the saddle where cairn #11 sat.
IMG_3640Cairn #11 in the saddle along the ridge.

IMG_3642Heather dropping down to the saddle, cairn #10 was out of frame to the left here.

IMG_3646View to the west from the saddle.

From cairn #11 we could see cairn #12 sitting atop an outcrop at the start of the next rocky section.
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IMG_3648Sculpted rock along the ridge.

The small section of hike near cairn #12 was one of the toughest on the day. Large boulders were surrounded by taller and thicker sagebrush than any we’d encountered since the mahogany trees. The easiest route was to boulder hop as directly as possible to the cairn which meant extra climbing but the vegetation was too thick to pass through safely due to hidden holes amid the boulders.
IMG_3650Heather making her way up to #12.

We then followed the rocky ridge until the sagebrush thinned out.
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IMG_3654Thought this might be an arrowhead or at least something that was used for a tool of some sort.

IMG_3655Heather resting by cairn #12 while I scouted the route.

After a false summit we realized that the high point was at the far end of the ridge.
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IMG_3664A hazy Pueblo Mountain (and more of the Pueblo Mts.) from the high point.

IMG_3665Cairn #15 is on a small rock outcrop near the saddle at center.

DSCN0821Cairn #15 (at least we think).

We had a nice break at the summit, and for some reason I felt compelled to trot down and tag cairn #14 only to realize too late that I had to hike back up to the high point.
IMG_3680Cairn #15 below from the cairn #14 coordinates, it appears that cairn #14 may have been at least partially dismantled.

IMG_3683Oh great, more uphill.

It would have been nice to have had a less hazy view but at least we could make a few things out.
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DSCN0819Peaks in the Pueblo Mts. near the Nevada border.

DSCN0829Cairn #12 and the saddle zoomed in.

DSCN0838Van Horn Creek is down there somewhere as is Ten Cent Meadows.

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After resting up we headed back attempting to follow the same route but judging by our track we may have been drinking something other than water up at the high point.
IMG_3696A lupine with a few blossoms left.

IMG_3701Lots of colored lichen on the rocks along the way.

IMG_3707Vertical rocks.

IMG_3713Rounded rocks.

IMG_3724Back to the mahogany trees.

IMG_3729Cairn #2 dead ahead.

IMG_3731Found the cow lick again.

IMG_3735Looking back at the Pueblo Mountains from the road walk.

IMG_3742Trees marking the spring and Sesena Creek.

IMG_3748The southern end of Steens Mountain from the road walk.

IMG_3751Sage grouse hen

The last half mile or so of the road walk provided us with a couple of close encounters with common nighthawks that were resting along the barbed wire fence.
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We got back to our car just before 1pm and after changing started the long drive to Salem. We got home just before 8pm making for a long but fun day. It had been a really nice vacation despite the hazy conditions for several of the hikes. The temperatures had ranged from hot the first two days to freezing on Wednesday to just about right Tuesday, Thursday and the hike in the Pueblos wasn’t all that warm either. We already have more ideas for hikes and stops in that part of Oregon so we’ll be heading back at some point even though we have finished with the “featured hikes” in the area. Happy Trails!

My mileage for the day came in at 13.3 including a total of 4.2 along the dirt road. Total elevation gain was approximately 2400′.

Our track for the hike. The orange segment is the road walk which was 2.1 miles each way.

Flickr: Pueblo Mountains