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Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Yachats and Waldport Area Trails

We kicked off our 2025 hikes with a multi stop day on the Oregon Coast. During our offseason, Nov-Apr, I spend a fair amount of time looking for hikes to add to our list of to-do hikes. The Oregon Hikers Field Guide provided me with three short hikes in and around Waldport Oregon that we had yet to check out.

We started our morning in Yachats at the Smelt Sands State Recreation Site.
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We’d used this trailhead in 2020 for a hike on the 804 Trail. We set off on the 804 Trail again this time but after two tenths of a mile we turned right off the 804 Trail.
IMG_6739We started with this hike in part due to it being the first day of the final king tides, abnormally high tides, for the season. High tide for Smelt Sands was going to be 9:45am so we were hoping to see some of the wave action.

IMG_6746It was just before 8am as we hiked the 804 Trail.

IMG_6749We made a mistake and turned right on the paved path here, but we should have continued beyond the large signboard to a second path marked by a wooden post. You can see the small white and black to the left of the green signboard. We may have been distracted by “Free Coffee” being printed on the bottom of the green sign.

We wound up walking through the Fireside Motel’s parking lot and out to Highway 101 via its driveway instead of the Overleaf Lodge & Spa. Either way we faced a choice at the highway. We could go directly across to Diversity Drive and walk up it 125 yards to the start of the Ya’Xaik Trail. (There are a small number of parking spots available at the end of Diversity Drive but be careful not to take any of the spots reserved for the townhomes here.) Our other option was to turn north (left) along the highway for a tenth of a mile and then cross (at the Earthworks Art Gallery) where we could pick up the public footpath at the Gerdemann Botanic Preserve. Please note that dogs are not allowed on the paths at the Gerdemann Botanic Preserve. Dog owners who would like to do a loop can find a dog friendly trail to the north of the fire station between the art gallery and Diversity Drive.

We chose to walk the highway shoulder to try and minimize the amount of traffic that would be passing by.
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IMG_6751This post is similar to the one along the 804 Trail where we should have turned right.

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Information about the preserve.

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The public entrance.

The path through the preserve is only about a quarter mile. The trail climbs gradually along Mitchell Creek with numerous interpretive signs. It also passes “Grandmother Spruce” a 300+ year old Sitka spruce that spans the small creek.
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One of the interpretive signs on the left.

IMG_6760Boardwalk over Mitchell Creek.

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The plaque at the base of Grandmother Spruce.

IMG_6766Grandmother Spruce

IMG_6775The upper end of the preserve trail.

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Pointer for the Ya’Xiak Trail on the far side of the upper gate.

Going right on the Ya’Xiak Trail would complete the loop to Diversity Drive, but before we did that we turned left on the unmarked Starr Creek Trail. This well maintained trail led a third of a mile to Starr Creek and Starr Creek Road. (Note there is no parking available at Starr Creek Road.)
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The Starr Creek Trail.

IMG_6784Mushrooms

IMG_6785Approaching Starr Creek.

IMG_6787Starr Creek

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Starr Creek Road

After tagging the road we headed back to the Ya’Xaik Trail junction and followed it south for a third of a mile before it turned west and headed downhill to Diversity Drive.
IMG_6796The upper gate at the junction.

IMG_6797Ya’Xaik Trail

IMG_6798The right hand fork here is the trail leading down to the fire station that dog owners can use to make a loop. A local had warned us that this trail can be pretty slick. We went left to remain on the Ya’Xaik Trail.

IMG_6807There was a little climbing involved before the trail headed down to Diversity Drive.

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IMG_6819The Ya’Xaik Trail at Diversity Drive.

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We walked down Diversity Drive, recrossed Highway 101, and returned to the 804 Trail which we followed back to our car. It was a little after 9am so it was still about 45 minutes from high tide, but there were already a lot of people watching the waves come crashing in.
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Our hike here clocked in just under two and a quarter mile with a little over 225′ of elevation gain.
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We could have extended this hike up to 14 miles by continuing north on the 804 Trail and then walking the beach to the Alsea River as we’d done in 2020, but since we’d already hiked that section of the Oregon Coast, we opted not to extend this hike but instead check out a different section of beach later in morning. From Smelt Sands we drove north on Highway 101 to Waldport and the John Maré Woodland Trailhead.
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Simply put the three-quarter mile Woodland Trail runs between this lower trailhead and the Red River Disc Golf Course at Woodland Park off South Crestline Drive. The hike however is not simple, even with the fairly detailed descriptions in the OregonHikers Field Guide and a input from a local who provided some useful information. Abandoned roadbeds, trails connecting to neighborhoods, and paths used by the disc golf course create a web of interconnected trails/paths with the only signage being for the disc golf holes. With many pauses to check our map and the descriptions I believe we only took one wrong turn which resulted in us doing a figure eight near Woodland Park instead of a loop as we’d intended.

The trail set off from the interpretive signs at the trailhead and quickly crossed the Red River (actually just a creek).
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IMG_6852The Woodland Trail continues to the left while the right connects up to a road.

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At the quarter-mile mark the trail crosses an abandoned roadbed.

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It was at the end of this stretch where we ran into a local who gave us some tips on our route.

The trail climbed fairly steeply via switchbacks to another roadbed and after passing a cement barricade we veered left onto an unmarked path.
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Just up this path we encountered the first signs of the disc golf course.
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IMG_6872A footbridge over the Red River below with a disc golf hole on the opposite ridge. We were able to use the OregonHikers Field Guide map to identify this connector trail as one we did not want to take. That map had many of the connector trails identified in red which helped keep our position located as well as keep us on the correct route.

We managed to arrive at the skate park having stayed on course.
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The Woodland Trail between the skate park and playground.
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Our (my) mistake came at a junction near the playground. I misinterpreted the map and had us turn right on a wide path at a junction then take a quick left when we should have stayed more of less straight.
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I had taken one of the red trails then regained the OregonHikers route when we turned left only we were now hiking in the opposite direction of their route.
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Heather was able to get me to understand my error and we simply looped back around to the playground then once again took the connector trail to where we’d turned left and this time turned right.
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The right hand fork led us to a large opening which the local we’d spoken with earlier aptly described as a landing strip.
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At the northern end of the opening the trail reentered the forest.
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We continued to refer to the OregonHikers track to stay on the correct path which followed a ridge to its end above the Red River.
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We dropped down to the footbridge over the creek and then continued straight on an abandoned roadbed.
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The gentleman we’d spoken to earlier had mentioned these three sets of stairs.

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We followed this roadbed back to the switchbacks where we’d encountered the local and at the bottom of the switchbacks turned right on another roadbed that led us back to the trailhead.
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IMG_6900The old roadbed at the bottom of the switchbacks.

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Rainbow over the baseball fields at the trailhead.

This hike was just 1.6-miles with approximately 175′ of elevation gain.
Screenshot 2025-01-11 154652Woodland Trail on the left and our next stop, the Lint Slough Trail, on the right.

Our next trailhead was just under a mile drive away (0.4 as the crow flies) at the Lint Slough Trail.
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This short out-and-back begins on a wide grassy track along the Lint Slough before becoming single track. There are several benches along the trail which according to the city is approximately 0.8-miles long, but we only managed to get half a mile out before we lost the tread in the vegetation.

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IMG_6918Memorial plaque

IMG_6921There was a bypass uphill for this short flooded section.

IMG_6928There were a number of bufflehead ducks, a pair of geese, and one noisy great blue heron at the slough. All of the wildlife seemed to be positioned as far away from the trail as possible.

IMG_6927The great blue heron in a tree across the slough.

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IMG_6939This little group of buffleheads was the exception.

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IMG_6947I turned around at this bench due to not seeing an obvious continuation of the trail here. I had also lost Heather who had stayed up to avoid the flooded section and instead of returning to the trail I was on, on the other side of the flooded bench, stayed up on the higher path. That path began leading up uphill away from the actual trail without another way to get back to the correct path. She wound up backtracking and we met shortly after I had started back.

IMG_6948The slough from my turn around point.

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A little blue sky reflecting in the water on our hike back.

IMG_6954Yarrow

IMG_6955Bull thistle (non-native)

IMG_6958Rose (probably non-native)

From Lint Slough we drove back to Highway 101 and headed north toward Newport and stopped at the Driftwood Beach State Recreation Site.
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The king tide was now heading out which provided us with the ability to walk the beach and enjoy the breaks in the clouds giving us some much-needed glimpses of blue sky.
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IMG_6964Looking north along the beach.

IMG_6965The view south.

We headed north first in the direction of Seal Rock (post). We turned back after 0.4-miles at a creek on Holly Beach.
IMG_6967The wet sand and debris from the high tide was up to the vegetation along much of the beach.

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IMG_6970We decided to turn back at the creek partly to avoid crossing it, but also because we had been walking into the wind. It wasn’t a particularly cold day, but the wind chill was almost making it uncomfortable.

IMG_6979Seagull with a crab.

We decided to continue south past the recreation site though to add a little time and distance to our day. (Our rule of spending as much time hiking as driving was in jeopardy of being broken.) We hiked 0.6-miles to the south turning around once we were confident our self-imposed rule wouldn’t be broken.
IMG_6983Cape Perpetua (post) to the south.

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IMG_6987Buckley Creek

IMG_6990We had to ford Buckley Creek which was only a couple of inches deep at most.

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Semipalmated ploversSemipalmated plovers

Western gullWestern gull

IMG_6998Heading back north.

IMG_6999The path back up to the parking area at Driftwood Beach.

This was a quiet 2.1-mile walk on the beach. We only saw a couple other people and at Noon the parking lot was nearly empty.
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The weather held up great for us. I think we drove through at least one rain shower every time we were in the car except between the Woodland and Lint trails, but we never got rained on. The four hikes came to just 6.9-miles with 425′ of cumulative elevation gain making it a good early season outing. With the exception of the 804 and Ya’Xaik trails these probably aren’t destination hikes, but they were enjoyable hikes and would be worth a visit if you were staying nearby or in the area and looking for a quick outing. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Waldport Area Trails

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

D River, Nesika Park, and Cutler City Wetlands – 11/18/2023

Back on January 1st we kicked off our 2023 hiking year by visiting several trails in Lincoln City, OR (post). During that outing we kept seeing signs referring to the Lincoln City Trail Challenge. A little post hike research revealed that the challenge involved trails in eight of the city’s open spaces, the five we’d visited that day plus The Knoll which we’d visited in 2021 (post) and two hadn’t visited, Nesika Park and Cutler City Wetlands. The actual challenge is to find the trail challenge signs at each open space and snap a selfie, but we rarely ever take a selfie, and we didn’t have a picture of the sign from The Knoll. That didn’t stop us from wanting to at least visit the final two challenge locations, so when a brief window of dry weather presented itself on one of our days off we headed to Lincoln City to do just that.

Given that the two remaining locations provide less than a mile and a half of hiking we consulted the Oregon Hikers Field Guide for additional ideas and landed on their Nelscott Beach Hike. This approximately eight-mile hike would visit a lake, the D River (Once recognized by the Guiness Book of World Records as the worlds shortest river.), and Siletz Bay.

We began the hike at the D River State Recreation Site.
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Before heading onto the beach we walked inland, crossing Highway 101 at a stop light, then passed over the D River and turned right into Hostetler Park.
IMG_1755The highway from the parking lot.

IMG_1759The D River from the highway bridge. The river flows between Devil’s Lake and the Pacific Ocean and at high tide has a length of approximately 40 yards.

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IMG_1762Hostetler Park.

At the far end of the small park was a sign for the D River Open Space and a short trail leading to a long boardwalk.
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We followed the boardwalk to a campground at Devil’s Lake State Recreation Area.
IMG_1770Several interpretive signs were located along the boardwalk.

IMG_1772One of the interpretive signs.

IMG_1778Nearing the campground.

We turned right at the campground entrance and followed the campground road to a paved (and flooded) path to a moorage.
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IMG_1781Orange cones, and a cat, at the far end of the path.

We were able to follow the path far enough to see the moorage and a small portion of the lake.
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We returned to the campground road and looped back around to the entrance booth and the boardwalk then hiked back to the parking lot and headed down to the beach.
IMG_1786Program area in the campground.

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IMG_1791View North from the beach.

IMG_1793Cascade Head (post) in the sunlight behind God’s Thumb.

IMG_1795Seagulls at the mouth of the D River.

We headed South along the beach for nearly three miles to Siletz Bay where we turned inland across from Salishan Spit (post). It was a beautiful morning. The temperature was perfect and there was little to no breeze. We spent the majority of time watching pelicans glide just above the ocean while the occasional seal would pop it’s head up in the surf. There were also a number of ocean birds floating offshore, mostly surf scooters but there were some others mixed in.
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IMG_1826There were of course plenty of seagulls present.

IMG_1834There weren’t very many ocean rocks along this stretch of beach.

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IMG_1846Surf scooters

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IMG_1859Loon, probably a common loon.

IMG_1860Baldy Creek

The largest group of offshore rocks were near the Inn at the Spanish Head.
IMG_1864The inn on the left with the rocks extending into the Pacific.

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IMG_1865Cormorants and seagulls

IMG_1874This was a big tree that we were able to walk under.

A short distance beyond the Inn at the Spanish Head are some stairs leading down from 44th St. Here the beach widens as it nears the bay. We turned inland toward the stairs and followed paths through the brush and driftwood.
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IMG_1877Salishan Spit across the Siletz.

IMG_1878Asters on the beach.

IMG_1879Pelicans on the left and seals on the right at the end of Salishan Spit.

IMG_1884Pelicans and seagull

IMG_1882Seals and a seagull

We walked along the bay to the Taft Dock for a short break before heading back.
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We stopped briefly on our way back to watch the wildlife on the spit.
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IMG_1912Drying off

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On our way back we noticed that some pelicans had joined the cormorants and gulls on the rocks near the Inn at Spanish Head.
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IMG_1930Pelican mouths are a sight to behold (righthand side).

IMG_1949Cascade Head and God’s Thumb both in the sunlight now.

After reaching our car we made the 0.8-mile drive to Nesika Park. The park is part of the trail challenge and home to sign #8. There is only room for a couple of cars at the end of the gravel road which was fine given we were the only car there at 11am.
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While there is a trail through a small, forested area, the entire outing was just 0.3 miles out-and-back. We did however get a photo of the Trail Challenge sign near the Nesika Park Story Circle.
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IMG_1959The Story Circle

IMG_1964Trail Challenge sign #8.

IMG_1967The trail ends at SE 3rd St (no parking available).

After accomplishing our goal here we hopped back into the car and continued South on Hwy 101 to find the Cutler City Wetlands Trailhead.
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Here there were three other cars and a few more trail options.
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IMG_1977While there are more trails to choose from here the total milage is just about 1.25 miles. We opted to loop around the outside with detours to the Salt Marsh Overlook and Pond’s Edge.

IMG_1978To the left is the very short spur to the Salt Marsh Overlook which was too overgrown to really see anything.

IMG_1979Interpretive sign at the overlook.

IMG_1984A noisy little hummer near the overlook.

IMG_1986There was pretty good signage at the main trail junctions.

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IMG_1994Boardwalks helped cross the wet areas.

IMG_1998Pond’s Edge spur trail.

IMG_1999At the edge of the pond.

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IMG_2006We hadn’t expected to see any blooming rhododendrons.

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IMG_2020Arriving at the signboards at the start of the loop.

This was a nice area and a pleasant hike, but by sticking to the outside trails we missed seeing the Trail Challenge sign. I briefly thought about wandering through the center searching for it, but since we didn’t get a picture of the sign at The Knoll even if I found it, we wouldn’t have a full set. Maybe someday we’ll get actual pictures of those last two but for now we’re satisfied with having visited all these unique little parks/open spaces.

In all the days mileage came in at 9.3 with no more than 50′ of total elevation gain.

Today’s hikes are highlighted. The others are from our January outing.

Late Fall and Winter are great times to visit the Oregon Coast and today was no exception. Happy Trails!

Flickr: D River, Nesika Park, and Cutler City Wetlands

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Oceanside, Short Beach, Tillamook Wetlands, and Anderson Hill – 10/28/23

A cold snap arrived in conjunction with the final hike of our official 2023 season leaving us with a decision to make about where to go. One of the great things about living in Western Oregon are the hiking options. We were debating between heading to Government Camp near Mt. Hood to see some of the new snow that the system had brought with it, or to the beach where things would be a little bit warmer. In the end we decided that we weren’t quite ready for a Winter wonderland yet, and highs in the low to mid 50s sounded a little more appealing than highs in the low to mid 30s. The beach it was where we had some unfinished business at Oceanside.

We had attempted to hike the beach at Oceanside earlier in the year on a different multi-stop day (post), but had saved it for the final stop only to find the area so crowded that there was no place to park. We wouldn’t be making that mistake again so this time it was stop number one on the itinerary. We had no issue finding a parking spot this time arriving just as the Moon was disappearing behind Three Arch Rocks.
IMG_1433From left to right: Storm, Finely, and Shag Rocks.

Three Arch Rocks is one of two designated wilderness areas along the Oregon Coast Managed by the Department of Fish and Wildlife as a wildlife refuge the 15-acre wilderness area was the first designated refuge West of the Mississippi and is one of only a few wilderness areas entirely closed to entry by the general public.

From the parking lot we took the stairs down to the beach and headed north toward the Tunnel which leads through Maxwell Point to Tunnel Beach.
IMG_1438Cape Lookout (post) to the south.

IMG_1440Maxwell Point

IMG_1443View from beside Maxwell Point.

IMG_1444The Tunnel was built in 1926.

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IMG_1454The Tunnel from Tunnel Beach.

IMG_1450Three Arch Rocks from Tunnel Beach.

We hiked North along the beach passing a rocky point to Agate Beach before turning around where that beach ended at a cliff a little more than a third of a mile from the Tunnel.
IMG_1465The end of Tunnel Beach. At higher tide it’s not possible to get around the point here.

IMG_1469Getting closer to the end of Tunnel Beach. This set of ocean rocks are part of the Oregon Islands Wilderness, A string of of over 5,600 rocks, reefs, islets, and islands lying within three miles offshore mirroring almost the entire length of the Oregon coast from Tillamook Head to the California border. Like Three Arch Rocks this wilderness is also closed to the public.

IMG_1484Bald eagle on top of one of the rocks.

IMG_1476Seal

IMG_1477Agate Beach

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IMG_1490Cape Lookout from Agate Beach.

After reaching the cliff we headed back to the Tunnel and then continued South along the beach 2.3-miles to Hodgdon Creek across from Netarts Spit (post).

IMG_1492An assortment of sea birds.

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IMG_1504Maxwell Point and Cape Lookout

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IMG_1508Sun starting to hit the Three Arch Rocks.

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IMG_1519Sand dollar

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IMG_1531Cormorants. There was a steady stream of flocks of birds heading south along the coastline.

IMG_1543Footbridge over Fall Creek.

IMG_1544Fall Creek

IMG_1570Frosty leaves near Fall Creek.

IMG_1548Great blue heron in a tree above Fall Creek.

IMG_1551Happy Camp

IMG_1557Hodgdon Creek

IMG_1555Seagulls and common mergansers near Hodgdon Creek.

IMG_1558Buffleheads

IMG_1562Netarts Spit

IMG_1565Happy Camp from our turn around point.

We returned the way we’d come and then drove North on Cape Meares Loop Road just under a mile and a half to a pullout across from a sign for Short Beach.
IMG_1575Three Arch Rocks and Maxwell Point now in full Sun.

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A local built the staircase leading down to Short Beach and it is about as “Oregon Coast” as a staircase could be.
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IMG_1590The beach only extends a short distance to the South.

IMG_1588The sea stack and Short Creek Spillway to the North.

We headed North along the cobblestone beach which isn’t the easiest surface to hike on, especially when they are wet and slightly frosty. On the positive side the cobblestones added some great sounds to the ocean as the waves tossed them about then rolled them over one another as the waves receded.
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IMG_1618Starfish

IMG_1619The sea stack

IMG_1621Cape Meares (post)

IMG_1609I didn’t notice the little waterfall along the cliffs below Cape Mears until I looked at the pictures.

IMG_1625Red-throated loon

A third of a mile from the stairs we reached Larsen Creek Falls.
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Apparently at low tide it’s possible to reach the cliffs below Cape Meares, but the tide was coming in and it also appeared that some sliding had occurred at some point, so we turned around a tenth of a mile beyond Larsen Creek Falls.
IMG_1641The area ahead in the shade is where things started looking a little sketchy.

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These two beach hikes came to a total of 6.6-miles, 5.5 at Oceanside and 1.1 at Short Beach. From Short Beach we drove to Tillamook to try the Tillamook Bay Wetlands hike which I’d found as I was looking through the Oregon Hikers Field Guide. We parked at the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. The field guide entry showed this as a 3.6-mile loop following dikes through wetlands between the Wilson, Trask, and Tillamook Rivers. We were immediately confused due to the field guide mentioning a map and metal gate at the Goodspeed Trailhead but there was neither at the signed parking area.
IMG_1676Apparently there used to be a metal gate here instead of a the rope/chain.

We were pretty sure we’d followed the driving directions though so we stepped over the chain onto the grassy dike and began following it through the wetlands.
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IMG_1685Bald eagles in the tree tops.

IMG_1683Bald eagles

The map in the field guide showed an elongated loop following what Google Maps and the GPS showed as the continuation of Goodspeed Road to the Wilson River then along that river to the Tillamook River where the route looped back along it then the Trask to Sissek Road. The dike we were on though reached a slough where it turned sharply South.
IMG_1686This is where the dike/path turned South. Our best guess is that there has been additional wetland restoration since the entry in the field guide and some of the dikes that the guide route followed have been removed.

We didn’t come up with our theory about what was going on until after we got home. While we were hiking we kept checking the GPS map/track and comparing it to the map in the field guide. We still weren’t sure if we really had started in the right spot given the lack of a metal gate and map at the trailhead or if we’d missed a turn somewhere. We continued to follow the dike system which looped around and after just over a half mile the GPS showed that we were on Sissek Road (now a grassy dike).
IMG_1689We weren’t getting across that.

IMG_1694Somewhere out that way, beyond the slough, was the Wilson River.

IMG_1699Now heading East toward Sissek Road.

IMG_1704At this point we had left Sissek Road which used to extend straight from Goodspeed Road where the signs and rope/chain is in this photo (ahead to the right at the 90-degree turn).

The dike system brought us to another signed parking area we’d pass on the way to the Goodspeed Road Trailhead. This one is just past a one-lane bridge over Hall Slough.
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At this point we were sure we’d started at the correct trailhead and were now convinced we’d missed a turn somewhere near the start of the hike. First we tried walking a grassy track South from this parking area which brought us to another muddy slough, but not before spotting an egret and a great blue heron.
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We backtracked to the parking area and then hiked Goodspeed Road back to the trailhead where I began searching for a different route.
IMG_1714Hawk above Goodspeed Road.

IMG_1677One path led down to Hall Slough ending in mud at it’s bank.

IMG_1716A second path led north on what the GPS showed as a former road but it was too overgrown and flooded to make it far.

We wound up doing just 1.9-miles here including the out-and-back explorations.

It was a fine little hike and we saw a nice little variety of birds, but it was a little disappointing not to be able to see any of the rivers. We had one last stop planned, another short hike I found in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide, the Anderson Hill Loop . The trail begins at Anderson Hill County Park to the right of a metal picnic table.
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The 1.2-mile reverse lollipop loop gains just 130′ as it climbs to a power line corridor on Anderson Hill. The view from the power lines is of course limited due to the power lines, but the trail was in good shape and the forest was nice making for a decent little outing.
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IMG_1730Junction with the spur trail to the power line corridor.

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IMG_1751Footbridge and stairs leading back up to the picnic table.

The four hikes came to just 9.7-miles and 270′ of cumulative elevation gain and included ocean views, waterfalls, forests, wetlands, and ample wildlife.

It was a beautiful day weather wise and great way to end our season. We’ll scale back our hiking for the next 5-6 months, but we plan on getting out at least once a month until our 2024 season kicks off. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Tillamook Area Hikes

Categories
Central Coast Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Big Creek -Forest Park and Strom Boulder Ridge – 09/30/2023

Our hike this week took second fiddle to our son’s birthday which we planned to celebrate by taking him out to lunch/dinner in Eugene. We still wanted to get a hike in that morning, so we looked for something in the general direction of Eugene. Our original plan had been to visit Vivian Lake near Diamond Peak, but a forecast of rain, followed by snow, then more rain had us look elsewhere. Looking at my list of future hikes a couple of hikes between Corvallis and Newport caught my eye. They were more or less on the way to Eugene and the weather forecast looked good. The two hikes had been Strom Boulder Ridge and Olalla Reservoir. Double checking the status of the hikes revealed that Georgia Pacific, who manages Olalla Reservoir, had closed access due to low water at the beginning of September so that hike was out. I then turned to the Oregon Hikers Field Guide to look for another short hike in the area and found the Big Creek-Forest Park Hike in Newport.

We began with the Big Creek hike parking at the Agate Beach State Recreation Site.
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A trail begins near the restrooms at a footbridge over Big Creek.
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IMG_0070Big Creek in the morning.

The trail follows Big Creek toward Highway 101 then recrosses it leading to a tunnel under the highway.
IMG_0072A short section of the trail was paved.

IMG_0074At the eastern end of the parking area we came to this new kiosk that is being installed marking the start of the Agate Beach TRACK Trail. There was also a path directly to the parking lot from the kiosk which we used upon our return.

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IMG_0078The tunnel under Highway 101. The stairs at the far end lead up to a city street while the trail makes a hard right to briefly follow the highway back across Big Creek.

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IMG_0084A series of boardwalks crosses the marshy bottomlands of Big Creek.

IMG_0085While the kiosk was a new work in process there were a number of older looking interpretive signposts. This was one of only a handful that still contained an interpretive sign.

IMG_0087The bottomlands.

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IMG_0098There were no signs at junctions but for the TRACK Trail stick to the level fork and ignore anything going uphill.

IMG_0108Further along the trail Big Creek could actually be seen flowing.

IMG_0109A non-boardwalk section along Big Creek.

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IMG_0116Approximately three quarters of a mile from the kiosk the trail arrived at Big Creek Road at another new signboard.

IMG_0117The signboard at Big Creek Road didn’t have any information on it yet.

We turned right on Big Creek Road passing a large overflow parking lot for Big Creek Park and Reservoir, crossed Big Creek, and then turned left into Big Creek Park.
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IMG_0122Stellar’s Jay

IMG_0123Northern flickers on the picnic shelter.

A signboard near the picnic shelter marked the start of the Forest Park Trail.
IMG_0125Map on the signboard.

Don’t be fooled by the footbridge over Anderson Creek to the right of the signboard, the Forest Park Trail follows an old gravel roadbed steeply uphill to the left of the sign.
IMG_0127Anderson Creek, the footbridge, and signboard from the roadbed.

IMG_0129The Forest Park Trail

While the Track Trail had gained almost no elevation the Forest Park Trail climbed over 200′ in its first half mile to a pair of water towers.
IMG_0131A nice sitka spruce forest lined the old roadbed.

IMG_0130Mushrooms

IMG_0139Sunlight hitting the trees.

IMG_0176The Pacific Ocean through the trees near the water towers.

IMG_0146Passing the water towers.

Beyond the towers the trail dropped 160′ to wetlands along Jeffries Creek then climbed nearly another 90′ to a gate at the Fogarty Street Trailhead.
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IMG_0152The drop to Jeffries Creek.

IMG_0155Jeffries Creek

IMG_0163Wood ducks in the wetlands.

IMG_0168The gate near Fogarty Street.

IMG_0170The Forest Park Trail from the other side of the gate.

We returned to the kiosk at the start of the TRACK Trail the way we’d come then cut to parking lot and returned to our car. The hike came to 4.0 miles with just over 550′ of elevation gain, nearly all of which was on the Forest Park Trail. The TRACK Trail seems like a good option for kids with the Forest Park Trail adding some short, steep climbs for those looking for more of a workout. The ability to visit Agate Beach from the parking lot is a huge bonus. We didn’t have time today to visit the beach but had in 2018 during our Yaquina Bay hike (post).

For our next stop at Strom Boulder Ridge we drove East on Highway 20 from Newport to Burnt Woods and turned right onto Harlan-Burnt Woods Road. We followed this road for 2 miles then turned right onto the unsigned gravel Burnt Woods Forest Road. I found this hike on Alltrails which I have somewhat reluctantly been looking at more frequently, mostly to check for recent trip reports but there are also some obscure “hikes” that don’t appear in any of our guidebooks or in the Oregon Hikers Field Guide. Strom Boulder Ridge is one such “hike” which is really just a 7.5-mile loop on drivable gravel logging roads on Oregon Department of Forestry managed lands. As such there is no official trailhead (although Google Maps seems think there is). The loop begins 0.7-miles up the forest road but we decided to park at a pullout next to a gravel pile halfway to the start of the loop.
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IMG_0195Morning fog was still burning off at 9:30am.

One thing to note is that there isn’t any signage and because the area is actively logged roads may be added or closed depending on operations. I had downloaded the Alltrails track and we had our GPS units with us. Almost immediately we passed a logging road coming downhill on the left that was not shown on either the Alltrails or Garmin maps.
IMG_0198A car by the gravel pile to the left with the road coming down the hillside to the right. Interestingly Google Maps labels this as “Burnt Woods Ridge Road” which both Alltrails & Garmin showed as the left-hand fork where our loop would begin. (Google doesn’t show a road there at all but you can see the road in the trees by looking at the aerial view.) Numerous times throughout the hike we relied on comparing the Alltrails Track to the GPS map and our track to that point to determine where we were and which road(s) to take.

The trip reports on Alltrails had all mentioned how quite this hike was and it was (we saw no other hikers and only passed one pickup truck on the loop) other than the gunfire that we heard almost immediately and then off and on throughout the majority of the hike. We followed the road uphill to a saddle then dropped slightly to a fork marking the start of the loop.
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IMG_0206There was some room to park here at the start of the loop (this is not where Google marks the TH) as well as many pullouts along the loop where one could choose to start.

We forked right following the suggested direction shown on the Alltrails track sticking to the Burnt Woods Forest Road. Over the next three and a half miles the road swung out and around several ridges in a series of ups and downs resulting losing a cumulative 580′ but regaining over 400′ along the way. As we descended we found ourselves back in the fog for a while before it finally burned off.
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IMG_0213Heading down into the fog.

IMG_0215One positive to the fog is that it can create some dramatic Sun rays.

IMG_0220Vine maple

IMG_0221Blue sky in the upper left hand corner.

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IMG_0225The road to the right is an example of a road that wasn’t labeled on any map we had.

IMG_0232Emerging from the fog.

IMG_0235Looking back through the fog to blue sky and the Sun.

IMG_0236The only other “hiker” we saw on the loop.

IMG_0243We couldn’t see it but just over three miles from the start of the loop the road crossed Cline Creek which was the first time we heard what sounded like a decent amount of flowing water.

IMG_0246A little over a tenth of a mile beyond Cline Creek we left Burnt Woods Forest Road and forked uphill to the left onto Cline Creek Road.

Cline Creek Road climbed gradually for approximately a half mile at which point it steepened and climbed for another mile to a junction with Burnt Ridge Road.
IMG_0247Arriving at a clearcut. Much of Cline Creek Road was along different clearcuts.

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IMG_0252Mylitta crescent

IMG_0254Red-tailed hawk soaring over the clearcut.

IMG_0255Trying to get the red-tailed hawk in flight.

IMG_0256Lots of Fall colors starting to pop.

IMG_0267The first signs we’d seen (noticed anyway) were at the Cline Creek/Burnt Woods Ridge Road junction.

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We turned onto Burnt Ridge Road and climbed some more gaining just over 150′ in the next 0.3-miles to the loop’s highpoint along the ridge (1558′). From there the road followed the ridge in a series of ups and downs for another mile and a half before making a sharp left and beginning a steeper descent back to the Burnt Woods Forest Road.
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IMG_0273Arriving at the high point which was actually the first good viewpoint being above one of the clearcuts.

IMG_0275Looking North at more of the Coast Range.

IMG_0276Theoretically we should have been able to see both Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson from here but between haze from the fog and clouds we couldn’t make either out.

IMG_0279Mt. Jefferson is out there somewhere. The fact that the Cascades have some snow again doesn’t help them stand out in the haze and clouds.

IMG_0282Yet another unsigned road junction. Sticking to the ridge is the key.

IMG_0286After crossing a saddle we gained views SE to Mary’s Peak (post)

IMG_0287The tower and summit meadow of Mary’s Peak.

IMG_0294The hard left prior to the steep descent. The road on the far hillside in the clearcut is part of the road Google Maps has labeled as Burnt Ridge Road but doesn’t show on Alltrails or the Garmin maps.

We followed the ridge downhill for a little over a mile to complete the loop then followed the Burnt Woods Forest Road back to our car.
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IMG_0302The end of the loop at the bottom of the hill.

Due to where we parked our hike came in at 8.5-miles with a little over 1200′ of cumulative elevation gain.

While it wasn’t the most exciting hike there was enough variety for it to be pleasant and aside from the gunfire it was quiet. It’s a decent option for a moderate workout, especially after rains when the road walk would be less wet/muddy than many trails. I would probably avoid weekdays if there is active logging occurring though. One other thing of note – Alltrails entry for the hike mentions the Siuslaw National Forest requiring a recreation pass but this is not National Forest land (and there is no developed trailhead) so no passes are currently needed.

After the hike we drove to Eugene and met Dominique at Ubon Thai for a late lunch/early dinner for his birthday. Good food and as someone who enjoys spicy foods, they didn’t disappoint with their heat scale. We followed the meal up with a slice of cake we’d brought down from Gerry Frank’s Konditorei. A great way to end a nice day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Big Creek-Forest Park and Strom Boulder Ridge

Categories
Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Trip report

Mt. Hebo Traverse – 09/19/2023

At the start of the year I scheduled a week of vacation in September just in case our August backpacking trip to the Wallowa Mountains didn’t work out. That vacation worked out so I had a free week while Heather needed to work. When that happens I tend to look for longer hikes in areas where we’ve already been together.

For this outing I chose Mt. Hebo planning to hike up and over from Hebo Lake to South Lake and back. We’d been to Mt. Hebo twice before, most recently in 2015 (post), but never to the actual summit or as far as North & South Lakes. I parked at the Hebo Lake Day Use Area and walked through the campground to the signboard at the start of the Pioneer-Indian Trail.
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IMG_9635Hebo Lake

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From the trailhead it’s four miles and approximately 1500′ to the meadowed plateau of Mt. Hebo. The lower portion of the trail includes several interpretive signs.
IMG_9646Despite it being the end of Summer the forest was a lush green.

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IMG_9657So much green.

The trail crosses several roads along the way and near the one mile mark an equestrian trail joins from the left. All crossing and junctions were well signed.
IMG_9658Trail sign at the equestrian junction.

IMG_9659The equestrian trail. In 2015 we made the mistake of turning onto it briefly.

IMG_9661Love the mossy trees.

IMG_9664One of the numerous trail signs.

IMG_9666This more recently thinned section was full of ripe red huckleberries.

IMG_9665Trail snacks.

IMG_9671Chestnut-backed chickadee

IMG_9675Crossing Road 14 near the 3-mile mark.

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IMG_9686There was a small section where there had been a lot of blowdown that had been removed.

IMG_9691Arriving at the meadows.

IMG_9694Looking NW toward the Pacific Ocean.

IMG_9695Mt. Hebo summit from the meadows.

IMG_9697Bayocean Spit (post) and Tillamook Bay.

IMG_9702Cape Lookout (post)

IMG_9711Looking back across one of the meadows.

At the 4.4-mile mark the trail crossed Road 14 again and traversed a hillside above several tributaries of Three Rivers.
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IMG_9718This late in the Summer there was no water.

IMG_9719Dry marsh at the tributaries.

IMG_9720Bunchberry

IMG_9724Another dry crossing.

The trail made another crossing of Road 14 just 0.4-miles later then rounded a wide ridge. Near the 5.5-mile mark I reached the start of the steep descent to North and South Lakes where we had turned around in 2015. This time I continued on.
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After descending three quarters of a mile North Lake became visible through the trees, or I should say the dry lakebed of North Lake became visible.
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The trail stayed above the lakebed and forked. The right hand fork led to Road 14 along the lake shore while the Pioneer-Indian Trail continued to the left.
IMG_9735This was the only official junction that was not signed.

With no water in North Lake I stuck to the Pioneer-Indian Trail and hoped that South Lake wouldn’t be the same. After an initial climb over a ridge the trail gradually descended arriving at South Lake 1.3-miles from North Lake.
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IMG_9743Road 14 – again.

IMG_9745South Lake through the trees.

There was water in this lake (and one car in the campground), so I followed the half mile trail around the lake.
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IMG_9761Vine maple changing colors.

IMG_9763The trail around South Lake.

After completing the loop I headed back along the Pioneer-Indian Trail.
IMG_9765I really appreciated being reminded that it was eight miles back to Hebo Lake.

I returned past North Lake and began the 600′ plus climb that needed to be made to get back up to the plateau.
IMG_9767I couldn’t really get a good view but there was a nice meadow along the trail between the two lakes.

IMG_9770Oregon grape

IMG_9771Bridge over Three Rivers near North Lake, I almost thought I heard a slight trickle of water here.

IMG_9773Good sized garter snake in the trail ahead.

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IMG_9782Normally these snakes slither off into the brush as you approach but this one coiled up in the trail, so I took a long step over it and continued on.

IMG_9785This was the steepest section of the climb up from North Lake.

On the way down I’d spotted two separate flagged trails along the ridge end that appeared to lead up to the plateau. There were no signs but a quick look at the GPS and maps showed a road on the plateau that connected with Road 14. I thought it might be a little shorter to go that way, or at least it might mean a little less climbing because the trail dipped as it passed the dry streams feeding Three Rivers.
IMG_9786One of the flagged routes.

IMG_9787Looking up the flagged route.

I turned up the first of the routes that I came to and climbed steeply to the plateau where the tread quickly petered out.
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IMG_9791Remains of some sort of old structure were present. The summit of Mt. Hebo could also be seen.

IMG_9789Turkey vulture

IMG_9792A lone lupine.

I could see the old roadbeds though so I followed the closest thing I could find to old tread to the first roadbed and turned left onto it.
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IMG_9798Mountain ash and maple.

IMG_9799A small bird watching me from behind some sticks.

Approximately a third of a mile from the Pioneer-Indian Trail I reached a gate at the end of pavement and in another tenth found myself on Road 14.
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I had a choice of turning left or staying straight on Road 14. It would have been about 0.4-miles back to the trail along the left fork, but the map showed Road 14 curved a couple of times while staying straight appeared more direct.
IMG_9801Going the left would have also been the way to North Lake. The road apparently gets narrow and a bit rough beyond this point.

I went straight and followed Road 14 nearly 0.7-miles before arriving at a trail crossing.
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IMG_9805I turned right at the trail marker here. As it turned out it wasn’t any shorter at all and I wouldn’t recommend this route due to a lack of tread between the flagged trail and old roadbed and then having to follow Road 14 for so long.

I followed the Pioneer-Indian Trail back through the meadows then, after almost a mile, when it neared Road 14 again I took a short path over to the road to detour up to the summit.
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IMG_9814A hedgenettle

IMG_9815I took this left to cut over to Road 14.

I followed Road 14 uphill for half a mile then turned right to visit the former site of an Air Force Radar station (now radio and other towers).
Road 14

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A path near an interpretive sign led out to the former radar site and a view of the Pacific.
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IMG_9826Lots of yarrow still blooming at the summit.

IMG_9831White-crowned sparrow

IMG_9832Heading toward the viewpoint.

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IMG_9836Three Arch Rocks

IMG_9843Haystack Rock near Pacific City.

IMG_9838Closer look at Haystack Rock.

IMG_9846Penstemon

IMG_9853Meadows along the plateau of Mt. Hebo from the summit.

I returned to Road 14 and followed it back down to the Pioneer-Indian Trail and headed back to Hebo Lake. It was nearly 3.5 more miles to the lake but luckily it almost entirely downhill and it had stayed relatively cool. I did stop for a moment to talk to three hikers from Corvallis who had originally headed East that morning but realized it was too smokey to be enjoyable, so they’d come West instead.
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IMG_9862Bead lily (Queen’s cup).

IMG_9868Meadow along the trail.

IMG_9874So many ferns.

IMG_9875Mushrooms

IMG_9876This was a good-sized mushroom.

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IMG_9890Back at Hebo Lake.

To wrap up the outing I took the Hebo Lake Trail around the lake and back to the car.
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The hike came in at 17.7 miles with a little over 3200′ of cumulative elevation gain.

The highlight of this hike was the coastal forest. The views were nice, and the lakes were fine, but the green forest stole the show. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Mt. Hebo Traverse

Categories
Central Coast Coastal Range Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast

Fort Yamhill, Nestucca Bay WLR, Trask River Bend, & Rockaway Beach Cedar – 08/26/2023

A combination of wildfire smoke, hot temperatures, and possible thunderstorms convinced us to abandon our plans to backpack over the weekend. To make matters worse thunderstorms late in the week had started at least 50 new fires across several forests. We are now at the point of the year when we just want it to start raining, and if it keeps raining that’d be fine (preferably without any flooding).

Looking at the various forecasts the only decent option for us appeared to be the central coast so I looked through our future plans for something that fit the bill. I landed on a multi-stop day which included, as originally planned, five stops for short hikes surrounding Tillamook. We wound up skipping the final planned stop at Oceanside Beach after seeing how packed the beach was and finding that there was absolutely nowhere left to park in the area.

We began our morning at Fort Yamhill State Heritage Area.
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A short loop passes through the site of the fort which operated between 1856-1866. The interpretive signs along the way provide insight into the lives of that time and provide a stark reminder of how poorly the Native American population was treated.
IMG_7916Most of the buildings are gone but this relocated Officers Quarters is being restored.

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IMG_7924It was hard to tell at times if it was cloudy or smokey which would be a theme for most of the day.

IMG_7929Flagpole behind an interpretive sign.

IMG_7934Most of the trail is ADA accessible but not the entire loop.

IMG_7936The forest was quite a contrast from the open hillside.

The loop was just a little over half a mile. The numerous interpretive signs to read made it an interesting and informative first hike.

From the heritage area we made our way to the Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge.
We followed signs for the trailhead and parked in a good sized, and empty, gravel lot.
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Two trails begin at the lot, the Pacific View Trail and the Two Rivers Nature Trail. We opted to start with the nature trail which started by following a gravel roadbed for a quarter mile to a trail sign.
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IMG_7944Lots of fading flowers: yarrow, goldenrod and aster mostly.

IMG_7948Some of the caterpillar tents on the hillside.

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We decided to follow the trail down to the viewpoint at the end of the peninsula and then take the road back up to the trailhead so at the sign we turned left onto what began as another old roadbed but quickly turned to a dirt track.
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IMG_7955The nature trail crossed the service road after half a mile.

IMG_7956The continuation of the nature trail on the right.

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IMG_7959We were pleasantly surprised at how forested this entire trail was.

IMG_7963There were lots of frogs hopping off the trail. Can you see this one?

20230826_081846Norther red-legged frog?

IMG_7969A little less than half a mile after crossing the road we passed a junction with a trail leading to the picnic area. We would visit the picnic area on our way back and pick up the service road there.

The trail passed a small viewpoint looking across Nestucca Bay before ending at a bench at a railed viewpoint overlooking the confluence of the Nestucca and Little Nestucca Rivers.
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IMG_7976The Little Nestucca is to the right with the Nestucca River straight ahead.

IMG_7977Cormorants

After enjoying the view we headed back uphill to the junction where we turned right and made our way to the picnic area.
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IMG_7990We disturbed a doe near the picnic area.

20230826_084936The doe leaving the picnic area.

IMG_7995A path here leads down to the bay to provide fishing access (we didn’t follow it).

From the picnic area we followed the roadbed a mile back to the trailhead.
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IMG_8004Ground squirrel

IMG_8006Thistle

Wilson's warblerWilson’s warbler

IMG_8011The overlook on the far hillside.

IMG_8013The trailhead from the service road.

Once we’d returned to the trailhead we walked to the opposite end and picked up the Pacific View Trail near the outhouse.
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A paved path led uphill through the meadow to the wooden overlook.
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IMG_8022Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda (post) from the trail.

IMG_8021Haystack Rock

IMG_8029Pearly everlasting, spirea, and aster.

IMG_8030View from the overlook.

IMG_8033Bench at the overlook.

IMG_8035Little Nestucca River from the overlook.

IMG_8036White-crowned sparrow

IMG_8038Ladybug

This was an enjoyable stop and left us wanting to return in the future to hopefully have a clearer view and see the refuge at different times of the year. With both trails this stop came in at 3.5 miles and approximately 350′ of elevation gain.

From the refuge we headed north on Highway 101 toward Tillamook but turned just before crossing the Trask River and making our way to the Peninsula Park Trailhead.
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Part of the Tillamook State Forest the Peninsula Day Use Area offers a nearly 1-mile loop with views of the Trask River and picnic tables at the far end of the peninsula.
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IMG_8043Trask River from the trailhead.

IMG_8047Garter snake near the trailhead.

It’s recommended to hike the loop counter-clockwise but we failed to pay attention to that hint and after staying right at the first trail pointer we forked left when the trail split again after 500′.
IMG_8048We followed the pointer here and went right.

IMG_8054Here we again followed the pointer and went left. We failed to notice the pointer on the lower sign not facing us. It was also hard to tell if the rocks were actually part of a trail or just a scramble route. Turns out they are “stone steps”.

Having gone left we quickly passed a short spur down to the riverbank.
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IMG_8058The inland clouds were breaking up giving us some nice blue sky.

IMG_8059Ouzel

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After exploring the riverbank we returned to the trail and continued on the loop.
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IMG_8068Big tree along the trail.

IMG_8071Arriving at the picnic area.

The picnic area provides access to a small sandy beach at the Trask River Bend.
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After a short break at the bend we started back. From the picnic area the trail climbed up the ridge, steeply at times following it to the high point then down to fork where we’d forked left.
IMG_8080The trail to the left.

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IMG_8082Huge nursery log.

IMG_8083It’s hard to see here but this section was very steep.

IMG_8086Steps along the ridge.

IMG_8093The stone steps looked more like steps from this direction.

IMG_8096Arriving back at the trailhead.

Given the steepness of the trail along the ridge we could see why going counterclockwise would have been preferable, but it was a nice hike nonetheless.

Up to this point the only other people we had seen was another couple that arrived at Fort Yamhill as we were getting back into our car. That was about to change with our fourth stop of the day at the Rockaway Cedar Preserve.

The trailhead is located along Highway 101 north of Tillamook.
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We wound up parking on the shoulder of the highway a short distance from the full trailhead (along with many other vehicles). We walked back along the shoulder to the trailhead and set off on the raised boardwalk.
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IMG_8103Skunk cabbage

IMG_8108Bindweed

IMG_8109While there were quite a few people visiting the preserve there were still moments when we had the boardwalk to ourselves.

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The half mile boardwalk ends at a 154′ tall western red cedar whose trunk has a circumference of 50′.
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IMG_8127Tree root along the cedar from another tree that is growing from it.

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IMG_8135Another big cedar, but not anywhere near as big as the other.

After admiring the huge tree we returned the way we’d come taking a short detour to the “viewing platform”.
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IMG_8140We passed a “hiker trail” pointer which is a reportedly rough, muddy track that links up to the boardwalk near the big cedar. We had seen the other end near the smaller big cedar but there was a “trail closed” sign at that end so we hadn’t even considered taking it.

IMG_8142Interpretive sign at the viewing platform. There were some benches here which were mostly occupied and not much of a view.

IMG_8141Salal

We returned to the trailhead and drove back south to Oceanside where we had planned for a final short hike, but as I mentioned earlier the Oceanside Beach State Wayside parking lot was full with multiple cars circling for spots and the road into and through Oceanside was also lined with cars. That was enough to convince us that our day was over. We will try Oceanside again during a less busy time of the year and likely as our first hike of the morning.

This was a shorter day with the four hikes totaling 6.8-miles with 700′ of total elevation gain. It had been a fun day with a very diverse set of hikes, all of which we would revisit.
The trailhead locations around Tillamook.

We still have a few trips planned this year to complete featured hikes (post) so we are hoping for some rain over the next couple of months to help control the fires and knock down the smoke. In the meantime we will have to adjust to conditions as we go. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Ft. Yamhill, Nestucca WLR, Trask River Bend, and Rockaway Cedar

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast

Enchanted Valley, Darlingtonia Wayside, and Cape Mountain – 04/15/23

It had been a little over a month since we’d hiked someplace more than 20 miles from Salem and almost six months since we’d been more than 100 miles from home. It was time reset those counters and set our sights on a three stop trip to the area north of Florence, OR. Two of the stops would be brand new to us and the third, Cape Mountain, was a hike we’d done nearly 12 years ago. We were interested in revisiting the trails in that area since it had been so long and it had been a different time of year (September).

We started our morning with the 2-mile Enchanted Valley Trail. The Forest Service warns of seasonal flooding in Winter months and the Oregonhikers.org Field Guide mentioned muddy conditions, so we had brought a backup pair of shoes. The first section of trail lived up to its muddy reputation but the recent rains hadn’t created any impassable flooding.
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DSCN2862One of the muddiest sections was just beyond a small footbridge near the trailhead.

The trail spent the first half mile passing through the damp grassy meadow with what the map showed as Bailey Creek on our right.
DSCN2861Skunk cabbage blooming along Bailey Creek.

DSCN2860Skunk cabbage

IMG_5840A second little footbridge.

DSCN2865Coltsfoot

DSCN2867Closer look at the coltsfoot.

At the half mile mark, near a fence, the trail turned left for a tenth of a mile and crossed an unnamed creek.
IMG_5843Approaching the footbridge over the unnamed creek.

IMG_5845This creek was really deep here although it’s hard to tell from the photo.

The creeks flow into nearby Mercer Lake which at one time actually extended into this valley. Elk are regular visitors but we didn’t see any on this day. Apparently in warmer months snakes are also prevalent along the trail.
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On the far side of the second creek the trail entered the edge of the forest and turned right following the valley northward.
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There were a lot of small birds including a number of hummingbirds visiting the salmonberry blossoms but none wanted to sit still long enough for a photo. The wildflowers on the other hand were captive subjects.
IMG_5850Wood sorrel

DSCN2872Trillium with a resident spider.

20230415_074901More skunk cabbage, also with a resident spider.

20230415_075313Violet

DSCN2879Bleeding heart

20230415_075520Salmonberry

20230415_082210Toothwort

DSCN2886Unfurling fern

20230415_080348Me passing under a mossy tree.

DSCN2888Snail on the trail.

The trail crossed several small streams, one of which was flowing down the trail.
IMG_5863This makeshift damn was not stopping the water from flowing down the trail.

DSCN2894Another of the small stream crossings.

For the most part the trail was in good shape, but we did encounter a few downed trees in the final half mile.
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We knew the trail ended at a creek but we weren’t sure which one and we also knew that it was theoretically possible to continue on bushwacking to the site of a former dairy. We had not planned to attempt that, but we did want to make sure we reached the end of the official trail. When we arrived at a larger creek with a sign announcing “Marshall Creek” we assumed this must be it and declared victory.
IMG_5872The creek was actually pretty deep here with the recent wet weather we’d had.

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We declared victory and headed back to the trailhead. We made a short detour to visit Bailey Creek on a faint use trail along the way.
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We were a little disappointed to not have seen any elk but I did spot a coyote near the turn around spot so that was something. Heather’s boots held up well in the wet, muddy conditions so I was the only one who needed to change shoes and socks back at the car. After putting on dry footwear we drove back toward Highway 101 stopping at the Darlingtonia State Natural Site
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A 0.2-mile boardwalk here loops through a fen that is home to darlingtonia californica or cobra lily which is the only member of the pitcher plant family in Oregon. The plants bloom in late May or early June so we were a little early for that but the hooded leaves are interesting on their own.
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The wayside is just 100 yards from Highway 101 so after our quick stop we made a quick right onto the highway and headed for our final destination of the day at Cape Mountain’s Dry Lake Trailhead
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There are a network of trails and old roadbeds here that make it possible to do various loops, but we wound up taking the same route as we had done in 2011 (post) because it was the only route that hit the two main attractions, a replica hitsi and the meadow on Nelson Ridge. We started on the Princess Tasha Trail which set off North from beyond the restrooms.
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IMG_5904A trillium unfurling.

IMG_5907Violets

IMG_5910Several trails have similar markers with most of them being at or near junctions. This one was just alone along the trail.

The trail climbed a little under half a mile to a junction on a ridge.
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We stayed on the right most path which remained the Princess Tasha Trail.
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As we neared the one-mile mark we came to a picnic table and bench that neither of us recalled from our first visit.
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There wasn’t much of a view from the bench which we’ve found is a fairly common occurrence on coastal trails.
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We continued on from the bench on what was now the Scurvy Ridge Trail.
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IMG_5930Rough skinned newt

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We arrived at the hitsi just over a mile from the bench.
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IMG_5938Time has not been kind to the hitsi.

A little over a tenth of a mile beyond the hitsi we came to another junction. We planned on turning left onto the Berry Creek Trail but it turned out that we had options. The left most fork led past a water station for horses while the next fork led a bit more directly downhill. Neither of us remembered going toward the water so we chose that fork.
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The two forks rejoined and descended to Berry Creek via a series of switchbacks.
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IMG_5955The trail briefly followed an old roadbed.

IMG_5953Mushrooms along the roadbed.

IMG_5956Another bench with a questionable view at the end of the roadbed segment.

IMG_5961Flowers are a few weeks behind this year but there were quite a few trillium along the trails.

IMG_5964Violets were the other abundant flower.

IMG_5965Red flowering currant beginning to bloom.

IMG_5972Wood sorrel

IMG_5970This looked to be a fairly recent uprooting.

IMG_5973A cute fungus

Berry Creek required an easy fording which meant another pair of wet shoes and socks for me.
IMG_5976Looking back after fording.

The trail made a short climb beyond the first crossing of Berry Creek and came to a 4-way junction.
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IMG_5984We made a sharp right here onto the Nelson Ridge Trail.

We then dropped to a second crossing of Berry Creek (different fork).
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IMG_5991Skunk cabbage at Berry Creek.

Beyond the second crossing the Nelson Ridge Trail gradually climbed for three quarters of a mile before gaining the ridge and making a u-turn and entering the meadow.
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IMG_5999A few bleeding-heart blooms.

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Although it was a different time of year the meadow looked pretty similar, maybe a touch greener. There were some lupine that didn’t look to be even considering blooming anytime soon though.
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IMG_6007At least this bench had a view of the Pacific Ocean.

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We followed the trail through the meadow and stayed to the right at junctions to stay on the Nelson Ridge Trail which eventually brought us back to the trailhead.
IMG_6012Passing through a stand of trees along the ridge.

IMG_6014Another bench.

IMG_6015Some easy to walk around blow down.

IMG_6020We couldn’t tell what this road/trail to the left was on the map so we stayed right to be safe at this junction.

IMG_6024I think that is Sutton Lake and beyond the sand is Clear Lake.

IMG_6029The end of another short roadbed section.

IMG_6034I walked on this roadbed for a bit just to do something a little different than on the first visit when I stuck to the trail (on the right).

IMG_6041Starting to descend toward Dry Lake.

The Nelson Ridge Trail passes Dry Lake just before arriving at the trailhead. On our previous visit the lake had lived up to the name Dry. This time however it really was a lake.
IMG_6043Dry Lake

IMG_6045Back at the trailhead.

Our three hikes came in at 4.3, 0.2, and 8.1 miles respectively with a little under 1200′ of cumulative elevation gain (1100′ was at Cape Mountain).

It was nice to see some of the Spring flowers blooming and it’s always fun to see darlingtonia. We have several wildflower hikes on our schedule over the next couple of months and it will be interesting to see how the late bloom affects what we wind up seeing. Regardless we know that we’ll enjoy our time on the trails and there will always be something to see. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Enchanted Valley, Darlingtonia Wayside, and Cape Mountain

Categories
Central Coast Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Trip report

Lincoln City Parks – 01/01/2023

It has been a couple of years since we kicked off a new year with a hike but January 1st, 2023 was forecast to be a lone dry day in the foreseeable future. Not only was the day supposed to be rain free, it was also going to be at least partly sunny. While Heather works back from her injury we are targeting shorter hikes that don’t involve too much elevation gain. Specifically looking for hikes that fit these criteria has led us to some hikes that we might have otherwise overlooked. We discovered several such trails in Lincoln City.

I put together a plan to visit five of the city’s open space areas over the course of four stops. The four stops would be just under six and a half miles with approximately 800′ of cumulative elevation gain. Following the hikes our plan was to have lunch at the newly opened Pelican Brewing Siletz Bay Brewpub.

Since the brewpub is located just south of Lincoln City we planned to start at the northern most trailhead and worked our way south. This meant that the Friends of Wildwoods Trailhead. The hike here was supposed to be a 1 mile out-and-back with a short side spur to a platform overlooking a swamp.
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We somehow managed to turn it into a 1.5-mile hike including a loop that isn’t shown on any maps. It’s worth noting that in all of these open space areas we visited on this day there were multiple use trails leading off in different directions. We used our GPS a surprising number of times throughout the day. One nice feature was that there were QR codes available at the trailheads which accessed maps for our phones. Even so we somehow managed to not find the viewing platform but instead wound up overlooking the wetlands from a different spot.
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IMG_5056Junction with the spur Wetlands Trail. The larger sign on the left is a Trail Challenge sign. We would see several more over the course of the day. The challenge, we learned later, is to visit all eight of the Open Spaces.

IMG_5058End of the trail at East Tide Ave.

IMG_5065

IMG_5067The wetlands.

We may have overlooked the trail down to the platform due to debris left over from a big storm the week before which packed wind gusts over 70 mph. We had been prepared for the possibility that some of the trail might be inaccessible due to damage but overall they were in good shape.

After finishing our hike we hopped in the car and drove less than a mile south to our second stop at Regatta Park.
IMG_5095Devil’s Lake from Regatta Park.

From this trailhead we would visit two open spaces, Regatta and Spring Lake. Before hitting the trails though we walked down to the shore of Devil’s Lake to get a closer look.
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From the lake we walked back uphill across the parking lot to a large Nature Trail sign.
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Once again the plethora of trails got the best of us and our route through the Regatta Open Space was not how we’d meant to do it, but we managed to see what we had wanted to.
IMG_5100Pointer for a heritage tree.

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Sitka Spruce. This approximately 400-year-old Oregon Heritage Tree is 212′ tall with a 32 1/2′ diameter.

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IMG_5107Another Trail Challenge sign.

After looping through the Regatta Open Space we walked uphill out of the park to West Devil’s Lake Road where we turned left for 400′ to a trail on the far side of the road.
IMG_5109Heading out of Regatta Park

IMG_5110Neat dragon sculpture.

IMG_5113West Devil’s Lake Road. The trail is ahead on the right just beyond the driveway on that side.

IMG_5114There was no sign along the road but there was a trail marker just uphill.

This was the Spring Lake Trail which made a short steep climb to a ridge top.
IMG_5116

IMG_5118The trail briefly leveled out atop the ridge before diving down the other side.

The area around Spring Lake was by far the most confusing of the day with numerous trails crisscrossing and intersecting seemingly every few feet. We used the GPS quite a bit here as we made our way counterclockwise around the lake.
IMG_5120This junction is where our loop began and ended.

IMG_5122Another fork just beyond the one in the previous photo.

IMG_5125Footbridge over the northern arm of the lake.

IMG_5127Spring Lake from the footbridge.

IMG_5131Found another one.

IMG_5135

IMG_5137Small trailhead at 14th Street.

IMG_5139Spring Lake from the 14th Street Trailhead.

IMG_5140We had to walk a few feet along 14th Street to find the trail on the east side of the lake.

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IMG_5143Approaching the junction at the end of our loop.

After completing the loop around the lake we returned to our car and drove another 2.7 miles south to the Agness Creek Open Space.

There are two trailheads here, a north and a south, separated by 200′. We parked at the South Agness Creek Trailhead and started with the 0.3-mile loop there.
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IMG_5154This forested loop was full of bright green mossed covered ground.

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After completing the loop we took a connector trail between the two trailheads to reach the North Agness Creek Trailhead.
IMG_5163The connector trail at the south trailhead.

IMG_5166Two short out-and-back trails begin at the north trailhead. We started with the left hand trail.

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IMG_5172The left hand spur abruptly ends on a ridge above what we assume was Agness Creek although we couldn’t really make out an actual creek.

IMG_5174Agness Creek?

We returned to the trailhead and took the right hand fork which led a third of a mile to SW 19th Street.
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IMG_5184Approaching SW 19th Street.

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After reaching the neighborhood at the end of this trail we returned to the south trailhead and drove 1.8 miles to our final stop at the Spyglass Open Space.
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Sticking with the theme for the day we got turned around a bit here as well and instead of doing a 1.4-mile loop around the perimeter we followed an old roadbed directly up the middle of the open space. We had planned on doing a counterclockwise loop but didn’t see the trail we actually wanted which was right next to a chain link fence.
IMG_5188This should have been the end of our loop, not the beginning. Had we realized we weren’t on the perimeter trail we would have taken the first left hand trail which would have allowed us to do our planned loop in reverse (clockwise). Instead we headed straight up the ridge.

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IMG_5193The Trail Challenge sign here was located at a second junction, near the ridge top. A short distance beyond was another junction with an unsigned trail veering off to the right. We still hadn’t figured out our mistake and thought that the right hand trail was a spur trail shown on the map leading to a neighborhood so we went left.

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The trail never quite reached the ridge top as it veered left in the forest below.
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I scrambled up one of several use trails to see what kind of a view the ridge offered.
IMG_5197A lot of clearcuts is what I could see.

When the trail made a sharp turn left and suddenly headed downhill we began to realize that we hadn’t been where we thought we were. We pulled up the map and GPS track and began comparing and figured out what we’d done. We weren’t sure where we had missed the right turn at the beginning of the hike though. When we reached another split in the trail we went left, leaving the perimeter to cut back uphill to the junction at the Trail Challenge sign.
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We turned left at the junction and then took the right hand spur that we’d mistook for the spur to the neighborhood. We followed this trail uphill, encountering our first and only downed tree for the day, to a junction with the actual spur. This section was fainter and a little harder to follow but we stayed left along the ridge as much as possible.
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IMG_5212We were really surprised that this was the only real obstacle we encountered all day given the recent storm.

IMG_5215An example of the fainter tread along this section.

IMG_5218The spur to the left led to a neighborhood so we turned right.

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IMG_5221The trail arriving at the trailhead entrance road. The chain link fence at Taft High is on the left.

Our hike here was just over 1.5-miles long with a little over 300′ of elevation gain which was the most of the fours stops. We changed at the car and drove on to the Pelican Brewery arriving just before they opened at Noon. We watched the birds in Siletz Bay while we waited for the restaurant to open then enjoyed a great lunch before heading home.
IMG_5222Siletz Bay from the brewpub.

IMG_5225A gull and an egret.

Once we were home we did a little research on the Trail Challenge which is when we learned that the challenge involves eight open spaces. The five we visited on this day plus The Knoll which we had visited back in 2020 (post), Cutler Wetlands, and Nesika Park. It looks like we have a couple of reasons to head back to Lincoln City (and the Pelican Brewpub) sometime soon. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Lincoln City Parks

Categories
Hiking

Oregon Coast & Coast Range

Several years ago we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks (post). Last year we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition. Up until the start of 2021 we had been intending to finish his 4th edition but the continued closure of the Salmonberry Railroad prompted us to revert to the earlier edition. That meant going from only needing to finish 5 hikes to 9 hikes but at least the 9 hikes were open and thus we were able to visit them. The last final featured hike happened to be featured hike #1 – Leadbetter Point (post) which we visited on 7/31/2021. Many of the featured hikes in this book are shorter hikes with some barely more than a half mile so we often did multiple hikes in a single day.

Generally speaking in order to check a hike off our list we need to have hiked a substantial portion of Sullivan’s described hike or visited the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 59 of the hikes we stuck to a nearly identical route to the one described in the book. For another 22 hikes we added to the hike, either following Sullivan’s “other options” or making it up on our own. Eighteen of the hikes were limited to the main attraction which typically involved hikes where there was an option for a shuttle from a second trailhead or as in the case of the Rogue River Trail there were options for multi-day backpacking trips. (We will get to more of the Rogue River Trail as we work through his Southern Oregon book.) Finally one hike, #86 Lower Rogue River, was cut very short due to trail damage. We may revisit that trail at a later date but we counted it as we went as far as we felt we could safely at the time.

The area covered by Sullivan in this book is unique in that it is the only area in which there are featured hikes in three states – Washington, Oregon, and California. It also contains the northern most featured hike the aforementioned Leadbetter Point. The area covered is a somewhat narrow strip running down the coastline from Leadbetter Point south to Redwoods National Park in California. A few hikes are located as far inland as the foothills of the Coast Range along the edge of the Willamette Valley.

Despite being a fairly narrow (approximately 60 miles east to west) area the hikes were quite varied from beach walks to mountain summits, sand dunes to temperate rain forests, and urban walks to the solitude of remote wilderness.

The area is home to several designated wilderness areas including the two areas that are off-limits to visitors, Oregon Islands and Three Arch Rocks. The areas open to visitors are the Drift Creek, Cummins Creek, Rock Creek, Devils Staircase, Grassy Knob, Copper-Salmon, Wild Rogue, and Kalmiopsis.

Two mountain ranges are home to several hikes. The Coast Range extends over 200 miles from the Oregon/Washington border south to the Middle Fork Coquille River. At the southern end of the Coast Range the Klamath Mountains begin extending south into California. The elevations for these hikes ranged from sea level to 4655′ atop Vulcan Peak in the Klamath Mountains (Mary’s Peak at 4097′ marked the high point in the Coast Range).

Lastly many of the hikes along the Oregon Coast follow the route of the Oregon Coast Trail.

Without further ado here is a list of the 100 featured hikes along with a photo (or two where two distinctly different hikes were included in the entry) from the 2009 3rd edition of “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range”.

#1 Leadbetter Point – Hiked 7/31/2021
Bay Loop Trail

#2 Long Beach – Hiked 9/11/2017
Discovery Trail

#3 North Head – Hiked 9/11/2017
North Head Lighthouse

#4 Cape Disappointment – Hiked 9/11/2017
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

#5 Fort Columbia – Hiked 9/11/2017
Fort Columbia

#6 Clatsop Spit – Hiked 9/9/2017
Elk at Clatsop Spit

#7 Fort Stevens – Hiked 9/9/2017
Battery Russell

#8 Fort Clatsop – Hiked 1/10/2016
Fort Clatsop

#9 Astoria – Hiked 9/9/2017
Megler Bridge in Astoria

#10 Seaside Promenade – Hiked 9/12/2017
Seaside promanade

#11 Tillamook Head – Hiked 12/8/2013
Cold morning in Ecola State Park

#12 Cannon Beach – Hiked 9/10/2017
Haystack Rock

#13 Saddle Mountain – Hiked 5/31/2013 & 6/23/2018
Saddle Mountain Summit Trail

#14 Highway 26 Waysides – Hiked 6/23/2018
Four County PointFour County Point

Dooley Spur LoopSunset Rest Area

#15 Banks-Vernonia Railroad – Hiked – 4/10/2016 & 1/16/2021 (Also ran as a marathon in 2014.)
Buxton Trestle

#16 Cape Falcon – Hiked 6/22/2012 & 4/29/2017
Cape Falcon from the Arch Cape to Cape Falcon Trail

#17 Neahkahnie Mountain – Hiked 1/5/2014
Lunch on Neahkahnie Mountian

#18 Nehalem Bay – Hiked 1/1/2018
Inlet along Nehalem Bay

#19 Munson Falls – Hiked 5/30/2015
Munson Falls

#20 Bayocean Spit – Hiked 4/14/2013
Cape Meares from Bayocean Peninsula Park

#21 Cape Meares – Hiked 1/1/2018
Cape Meares Lighthouse

#22 Wilson River – Hiked 3/8/2014
Bridge Creek Falls

#23 Kings Mountain – Hiked 8/16/2010
Elk Mountain Summit

#24 Gales Creek – Hiked 2/15/2015
Gales Creek

#25 Hagg Lake – Hiked 9/13/2019
Henry Haag Lake

#26 Cape Lookout – Hiked 11/11/2011
Cape Lookout

#27 Pacific City – Hiked 10/8/2013
Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda

#28 Mount Hebo – Hiked 5/30/2011 & 5/30/2015
Mount Hebo Trail

#29 Niagara Falls – Hiked 2/12/2017
Niagara Falls

#30 Neskowin – Hiked 2/12/2017
Proposal Rock

#31 Harts Cove – Hiked 12/6/2014
Harts Cove and Chitwood Creeks waterfall

#32 Cascade Head – Hiked 8/8/2010, 6/25/2019, & 9/28/19 (Inland Trail)
View from the Cascade Head Trail

Cascade Head Rainforest TrailInland (Rainforest) Trail

#33 Baskett Slough Refuge – Hiked 7/11/2010, 5/3/2020 & 4/15/2021
Baskett Butte

#34 Valley of the Giants – Hiked 5/18/2020
Valley of the Giants

#35 Roads End – Hiked 3/6/2021
Roads End Beach

#36 Drift Creek Falls – Hiked 12/6/2014
Drift Creek Falls

#37 Salishan Spit – Hiked 8/1/2015
Salishan Spit

#38 Devil’s Punchbowl – Hiked 7/12/2012
Devi's Punchbowl

#39 Newport Lighthouses – Hiked 8/26/2017
Yaquina Head Lighthouse from the Salal Hill TrailYaquina Head

Yaquina Bay BridgeYaquina Bay

#40 South Beach – Hiked 8/4/2018
Estuary TrailEstuary Trail

Yaquina Head across the jettySouth Jetty

Mike Miller TrailMike Miller Trail

#41 Ona Beach and Seal Rock – Hiked 12/11/2017
Exposed rocks on Ona Beach

#42 Drift Creek North – Hiked 9/15/2010
Drift Creek

#43 Drift Creek South – Hiked 8/3/2019
Drift Creek

#44 Mary’s Peak – Hiked 2009 (day unknown), 6/1/2014, & 6/5/2021
South side of Mary's Peak summit

#45 Kings Valley – Hiked 6/1/2014
Fort Hoskins Historic ParkFort Hoskins

Bridge leading into the Beazell ForestBeazell Forest

#46 Peavy Arboretum – Hiked 2/19/2018
Section 36 Loop Trail

#47 Chip Ross Park & Dimple Hill – Hiked 12/18/2016 & 10/2/2021
Mary's Peak from Dimple Hill

#48 Finley Wildlife Refuge – Hiked 10/21/2017, 5/31/20, & 4/14/2021
Homer Campbell Boardwalk

#49 Alsea Falls – Hiked 12/19/2012
Alsea Falls

#50 Yachats – Hiked 12/5/2020
Pacific Ocean from the 804 Trail

#51 Cape Perpetua – HIked 9/15/2010, 2/17/2013, & 10/27/2018
View from Cape Perpetua

#52 Gwynn Creek – Hiked 2/17/2013
Cummins Creek Loop Trail

#53 Heceta Head – Hiked 12/11/2017
Heceta Head Lighthouse

#54 Baker Beach – Hiked 1/15/2017
Heading back toward Baker Beach Camp

#55 Sutton Creek – Hiked 2/20/2016
Sutton Creek

#56 Cape Mountain – Hiked 9/5/2011
Nelson Ridge Trail

#57 Pawn and Pioneer Trails – Hiked 5/13/2021
Interpretive sign along the Mapleton Hill Pioneer TrailPioneer Hill Trail

Pawn Old Growth TrailPawn Old Growth Trail

#58 Siuslaw Ridge Trails – Hiked 2/20/2016 & 11/20/2021
View from the summit of the Old Growth Ridge TrailOld Growth Ridge Trail

Clay Creek TrailClay Creek Trail

#59 Sweet Creek Falls – Hiked 2/20/2016
Sweet Creek Falls

#60 Kentucky Falls – Hiked 5/9/2015
Upper Kentucky Falls

#61 Honeyman Park – Hiked 12/8/2018
Dune in Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

#62 Siltcoos Lake – Hiked 12/8/2018
Siltcoos Lake

#63 Siltcoos River – Hiked 12/8/2018
Siltcoos River

#64 Taylor Dunes – Hiked 9/13/2018
Taylor Dunes Trail

#65 Oregon Dunes – Hiked 1/1/2015
View from Oregon Dunes day use area

#66 Tahkenitch Creek – Hiked 1/1/2015 & 9/16/2018
Tahkenitch Creek

#67 Tahkenitch Dunes – Hiked 1/1/2015
First look at Tahkenitch Dunes

#68 Lake Marie – Hiked 9/13/2018
Lake Marie

#69 Umpqua Dunes – Hiked 9/13/2018
Umpqua Dunes

#70 Golden and Silver Falls – Hiked 5/16/2021
Golden Falls

#71 Shore Acres – Hiked 5/15/2021
Simpson Reef

#72 South Slough Estuary – Hiked 5/15/2021
South Slough

#73 Fivemile Point – Hiked 5/13/2021
Heading south toward Fivemile Point

#74 Bullards Beach – Hiked 9/15/2018
Coquille River Lighthouse

#75 Bandon Islands – Hiked 9/14/2018
Bandon Islands

#76 New River – Hiked 9/14/2018
New River

#77 Floras Lake – Hiked 5/8/2017
Paintbrush and Blacklock Point

#78 Cape Blanco – Hiked 5/8/2017
Cape Blanco Lighthouse

#79 Port Orford Heads – Hiked 5/8/2017
Port Orford Heads State Park

#80 Humbug Mountain – Hiked 5/16/2016
View from the Humbug Mountain summit meadow

#81 Sisters Rock – Hiked 5/16/2016
Thistle at Sisters Rock State Park

#82 Otter Point – Hiked 5/16/2016
View north from Otter Point State Park

#83 Coquille River Falls – Hiked 5/6/2017
Coquille River FallsCoquille River Falls

Elk Creek FallsElk Creek Falls

#84 Hanging Rock – Hiked 5/7/2017
Hanging RockHanging Rock

#85 Rogue River Trail – Hiked 5/14/2021
Rogue River

#86 Lower Rogue River – Hiked 5/9/2017
Washout along the Lower Rogue River Trail

#87 Illinois River – Hiked 5/20/2016
Indigo Creek

#88 Shrader Old Growth Trail – Hiked 5/9/2017
Francis Shrader Old Growth TrailShrader Old Growth Trail

Oregon's largest known Myrtlewood TreeMyrtle Tree Trail

#89 Cape Sebastian – Hiked 5/18/2016
Hunters Island from the Oregon Coast Trail

#90 Boardman Park North – Hiked 5/21/2016

#91 Boardman Park South – Hiked 5/19/2016
Lupine

#92 Vulcan Lake – Hiked 5/17/2016
Vulcan LakeVulcan Lake

Little Vulcan Lake below Vulcan PeakVulcan Peak

#93 Redwood Nature Trail – Hiked 5/17/2016
Big redwood along the Redwood Nature Trail

#94 Wheeler Ridge Bomb Site – Hiked 5/19/2016
Viewing platform for the bomb crater

#95 Oregon Redwoods – Hiked 5/13/2021
Inside a redwood trunk

#96 Stout Grove – Hiked 10/25/2015
Stout Memorial Grove

#97 Boy Scout Tree – Hiked 10/25/2015
Boy Scout Tree

#98 Damnation Creek – Hiked 10/24/2014
On the rocky beach near Damnation Creek

#99 Hidden Beach – Hiked 5/11/2017
Hidden Beach

#100 Fern Canyon – Hiked 5/10/2017
Fern Canyon

With any luck the Salmonberry Railroad will be reopened in the not too distant future so we can say we’ve completed the 4th edition as well. In the meantime there are still other non-featured hikes to explore and trails to revisit. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking Oregon Oregon Coast Southern Coast Trip report

South Slough Reserve and Shore Acres State Park – 05/15/2021

Our third day on the southern Oregon coast was set to be our longest day mileage wise with stops at the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve and Sunset Bay State Park. The second stop would allow us to hike through that park, Shore Acres State Park and Cape Arago State Park.

We started our day parking at the closed (stupid COVID) interpretative center at South Slough Reserve.
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It looked like it would be full of good info and we’ll have to come back someday post pandemic when we can experience it. For now we settled for the trails walking behind the center and picking up the Ten Minute Loop Trail where we turned right.
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After just a tenth of a mile we came to a junction with the Middle Creek Trail where we turned right detouring briefly to check out an opening where in better times talks are given by staff members.
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We followed the Middle Creek Trail downhill through a coastal forest to a road crossing where the Hidden Creek Trail continued on the far side.
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IMG_4526All the bridges had labels consisting of the first initial of the trail and then the bridge number making this the 4th bridge along the Middle Creek Trail.

IMG_4532Interesting seat.

IMG_4536That’s a fancy hat for a stump.

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The Hidden Creek Trail continued downhill following the creek to Hidden Creek Marsh where a series of boardwalks passed through giant skunk cabbage patches. We stayed to the right each time the boardwalks split (they eventually rejoined along the way).
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IMG_4567We saw a lot of rough skinned newts on the trails, but what we were really hopping for was a Pacific Giant Salamander. No luck there this time.

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IMG_4575A few trillium still had petals.

IMG_4593Woodpecker

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We heard a few frogs and we were looking in the skunk cabbage to see if we could spot any. We didn’t see any of the frogs but we did spot several others on the plants.
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IMG_4612A hedgenettle

At the end of Boardwalk 2 the trail became the Tunnel Trail and headed back into the forest.
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After a short climb we came to a nice big observation deck. The view was good but there wasn’t much to observe on this morning.
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We ignored the Big Cedar Trail to the left when we passed it and continued on the Tunnel Trail passing a couple of more viewpoints out to the South Slough. While we had struck out at the observation deck we now could see movement which turned out to be over a half dozen raccoons crossing the mud flats in search of breakfast.
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IMG_4626Tunnel Trail indeed.

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This marked the first time we’d seen raccoons on a hike and we had a lot of fun watching them search for snacks. Shortly after passing some restrooms the trail came to a junction where we headed downhill to a shed and another junction.
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We turned right by the shed passing under an awning to the Sloughside Trail
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We turned right first passing several wooden decks before the trail ended along the slough.
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IMG_4649Castilleja ambigua – Estuarine Paintbrush

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After watching more raccoons from the end of this spur we returned to the shed and took the left hand fork. This spur was a bit longer (still only .1 miles) and passed along a narrow strip between flats.
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>IMG_4665End of the line.

IMG_4666South Slough

IMG_4667It was interesting to see how this uprooted tree peeled back a layer of the ground.

We again returned to the shed staying to the right and crossing a nice bridge on the North Creek Trail.
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IMG_4671Rhoades Marsh

IMG_4673Sloughside Marsh

IMG_4675Rhododendron

A third of a mile along the North Creek Trail we came to the signed .15 mile North Creek Spur.
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We decided to check it out and followed the short trail downhill to a different view of the Sloughside Marsh.
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We returned to the North Creek Trail and followed it uphill back to the Ten Minute Loop Trail where we turned right for a tenth of a mile to the Interpretive Center.
IMG_4691Bleeding heart, fairy bells, and youth-on-age.

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This was an excellent 4 mile hike with 300′ of elevation gain.

South Slough Track

From the Interpretive Center we returned to Seven Devils Road and followed it north to Charleston were we turned left onto the Cape Arago Highway to Sunset Bay State Park, a total of 6.7 miles from the center. We parked at Sunset Bay Middle (there is a North, Middle, and South but we didn’t realize that before we parked) which added a tenth of a mile each way to our hike but we had a nice view of Sunset Beach and Bay.
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We walked over to Sunset Bay South and picked up the Oregon Coast Trail at a bridge over Big Creek.
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The trail climbed to the top of the cliffs overlooking the Pacific as it looped around a large grass clearing that in non-pandemic times acts as a group camp.
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IMG_4731Cape Arago Lighthouse (not on Cape Arago) on Chiefs Island.

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IMG_4743Salal

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IMG_4749The group campsite.

We followed pointers for the Oregon Coast Trail which briefly followed the shoulder of Cape Arago Highway as it passed Norton Gulch.
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On the far side of the gulch the trail veered away from the highway and by staying right at junctions soon got back to the cliffs above the ocean providing some excellent views.
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A long pause in our hike came when we stopped to watch some harbor seals on the rocks below us.
IMG_4790Harbor seals in the lower right hand corner on the rocks.

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Drama was unfolding in front of us as one pup repeatedly attempted to follow its mother up onto the rocks only to slide back into the water. It finally found success and then back into the water they went. Apparently it was just a practice run.
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IMG_4816Success!

After tearing ourselves away from the seal show we continued south along the cliffs.
IMG_4825Paintbrush

IMG_4822Sea thrift

IMG_4834Mariposa lilies

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Just over two miles into the hike we came to the first noticeable remnants of the 1906 estate of timber baron Louis Simpson.
IMG_4849Former tennis courts.

It was windy on the plateau and I couldn’t help but wonder how anyone could play tennis in the windy conditions that are often present on the coast.

IMG_4851View near the tennis courts.

IMG_4853These roots explain how some of the trees that look like they should be plunging into the ocean don’t.

IMG_4855Observation Building ahead on the cliff.

The rocks along the coastline here had been pounded and carved by the ocean into some interesting shapes and designs.
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We walked past the Observation Building (closed due to COVID) to a viewpoint overlooking Simpson Cove.
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The Oregon Coast Trail dropped down to the cove before climbing again and continuing onto Cape Arago State Park but before we headed down we wanted to check out the Shore Acres Gardens which were open (limit of 75 persons at a time).
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It was a little early yet for many of the flowers, especially the rose garden, but there was still a lot to see. The most impressive specimens to us were a plant and tree from South America.
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IMG_4929Prickly Rhubarb from Chile

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IMG_4954Monkey Puzzle Tree from South America

IMG_4959The yet to bloom rose garden.

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After winding our way through the gardens we returned to the Oregon Coast Trail and followed it down to Simpson Beach.
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After climbing up from the beach we came to an unsigned junction where we turned right continuing to follow the cliff south for .9 miles to an overlook along the Cape Arago Highway of Simpson Reef.
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IMG_4971Looking back across Simpson Cove to the Observation Building.

IMG_4976Simpson Reef extending into the Pacific.

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There was a lot of action going on out on the reef, in particular on Shell Island where sea lions barked and eagles engaged in aerial combat.
IMG_5001Shell Island in the middle of Simpson Reef.

IMG_4991Sea lions and juvenile bald eagles on Shell Island.

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IMG_5018Harbor seals on the reef.

After watching the action for awhile we continued on our trek by crossing the Highway onto a hiking trail marked by a post.
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After a half mile on this trail we arrived at the Cape Arago Pack Trail.
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Left would loop us back to Shore Acres State Park while heading right would drop us into the main part of Cape Arago State Park. We turned right to check out more of the park and popped out near the South Cove of Cape Arago.
IMG_5031Woolly bear caterpillar

IMG_5032Looking back up the Pack Trail.

A short trail led down to the beach in the South Cove (and possible tidepools) but we were starting to feel the effects of 3 straight days of hiking and having to climb back up from the cove just didn’t sound appealing so we opted to take a break at bench overlooking the cove in a picnic area.
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IMG_5036Plaque near the bench commermorating Sir Frances Drake’s visit to the area in 1579.

IMG_5039Our stalker while we sat at the bench hoping we would leave some food behind (we didn’t).

After the break we continued to follow the parking area around Cape Arago passing Middle Cove and then arriving at the North Cove Trail.
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IMG_5046We thought we might be hearing things, but no it was a rooster crowing.

IMG_5047Stellar’s jay

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We decided to take this trail as it only lost a little elevation on its way to a ridgeend viewpoint with a view of a different side of Shell Island.
IMG_5051North Cove (A trail down to that beach was closed for the season.)

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From the North Cove Trail it was shorter to continue around the parking loop to reach the Pack Trail instead of backtracking so that’s what we did. The Cape Arago Pack Trail gained approximately 300′ in just under a mile to reach its high point at 530′. There had been caution signs regarding storm damage which we found near the high point where a clearcut had left trees overly exposed to winds causing several large ones to be uprooted. Luckily crews had cleared the trail beacuse the size and amount of trees down here would have been very problematic to get past.
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The trail then descended to a small stream crossing before climbing again to a ridgetop.
IMG_5078Heading down.

IMG_5082Going up.

On the ridge we turned left at a junction on an old roadbed which followed the ridge down to the highway passing an old WWII radar installation bunker near the highway.
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IMG_5089The Cape Arago Pack Trail at the highway.

We recrossed the highway here into Shore Acres State Park.
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Just five hundred feet after crossing the road we came to the unsigned junction where we had turned right earlier after climbing up from Simpson Beach only we both missed it. Luckily we realized our mistake less than fifty yards later and got onto the right path. At this point we had hiked 12.5 miles on the day and it was closing in on 3pm due to all our extended breaks and we were getting tired. We decided to take the straightest path back to our car instead of following the Oregon Coast Trail as we had done earlier. We followed the entrance road in Shore Acres to the fee booth where we turned left on an old roadbed that now acts as a trail.
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Going this way shortened our return trip by nearly 3/4 of a mile but it meant missing the views along the cliffs where we had watched the seals earlier. When we reached the Oregon Coast Trail we turned right and followed it back to the group camp at Sunset Bay State Park. We shortened our hike even further here by cutting through the empty camp, a move that shaved another 1/2 mile off the hike. It was a good thing too because our feet were not happy with us when we finally made it back to our car.

Our route through the parks

It had been a great day though with the two hikes combining for a 14.3 mile day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: South Slough Reserve and Shore Acres State Park