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Bend/Redmond Blue Mountains - North Blue Mountains - South Central Oregon Fort Rock Hells Canyon Hiking John Day Klamath Falls Lakeview Newberry Crater Ochoco Mountains SE Oregon Steens Mountain Wallowas

Eastern Oregon

Back in 2016 we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks post. In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post). Southern Oregon & Northern California was completed in 2023 leaving us with Eastern Oregon.

In 2023 we pivoted from the 3rd edition of Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” to his renamed 2022 1st edition “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” book. This was to avoid needing to make the tedious drive on horrible roads to Dug Bar in Hells Canyon which had been replaced as a featured hike in the newer edition.

The criteria for checking a hike off our list is to hike a portion of Sullivan’s described hike or, at least visit the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 67 of the hikes we completed the books described route. For the other 33 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing every option of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had additional options that we did not do.

Of the five regions Sullivan breaks his guidebooks into, the Eastern Oregon region is the largest and most diverse. The area covered in this book includes hikes in Oregon east of the Deschutes River in Central Oregon and from Klamath Falls (western most hike) east to the Idaho border. There is however one hike in Washington west of the Deschutes across the Columbia River from The Dalles, OR.  It also includes one short option in Idaho (eastern most), one featured hike in California (southern most) making it his only book with hikes in more than two different States. The northern most hike is not the one in Washington. That  honor belongs to the Wenaha River near Troy in NE Oregon.

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The hikes involved several wilderness areas: Oregon Badlands, Mill Creek, Spring Basin, Strawberry Mountain, North Fork John Day, North Fork Umatilla, Wenaha-TucannonEagle Cap, Hells Canyon, Monument Rock, and Steens Mountain. Missing from this list are the Black Canyon (post) and Gearhart Mountain (post) wilderness areas which had featured hikes in earlier versions of Sullivan’s book that we’d completed, but were removed in the 2022 edition due to wildfire damage.

In addition to the 11 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments, the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument in Oregon and the Lava Beds National Monument in California, and one National Volcanic Monument, the Newberry National Volcanic Monument.

Following is a list of the 100 featured hikes and the dates we visited.

#1 Cottonwood Canyon – Hiked 5/27/2017
John Day River

#2 Columbia Hills – Hiked 4/4/2015 & 4/17/2021
Eightmile Creek Trail

#3 Lower Deschutes River – Hiked 6/9/2018
Deschutes River

#4 Macks Canyon – Hiked 5/26/2018
Deschutes River

#5 Criterion Tract – Hiked 05/28/2023
Deschutes River

#6 Trout Creek – Hiked 10/12/2013
Deschutes River

#7 Willow Creek at Madras – Hiked 5/27/2024
Willow Creek Trail

#8 Cove Palisades – Hiked 6/16/2018
The Island

#9 Gray Butte – Hiked 6/13/2015
Smith Rock State Park from the summit above Burma Road

#10 Oregon Badlands – Hiked 5/15/2016 & 12/24/2016
Flatiron Rock Trail

#11 Pine Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2012
Summit of Pine Mountain

#12 Paulina Falls – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Falls

#13 Paulina Lake – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Peak from the hot springs

#14 Obsidian Flow – Hiked 8/9/2011
East Lake and the Big Obsidian Flow

#15 Crooked River Wetlands – Hiked 5/29/2024
Crooked River Wetlands Complex

#16 Chimney Rock – Hiked 9/22/2017
Chimney Rock

#17 Steins Pillar – Hiked 5/8/2013
Steins Pillar

#18 Juniper Hill – Visited* 5/27/2024
Painted hills at Juniper Hills Preserve

#19 Mill Creek – Hiked 7/31/2012
Twin Pillars

#20 Lookout Mountain – Hiked 6/12/2014
Sagebrush meadows on Lookout Mountain

#21 Walton Lake – Hiked 6/17/2017 & 6/18/2021
Walton Lake

#22 Spring Basin – Hiked 4/22/2017
Biscuitroot and hedghog cactus in the Spring Basin Wilderness

#23 John Day Fossil Beds – Hiked 4/30/2016, 4/22/2017 & 9/17/2017
Painted HIllsPainted Hills Unit

Clarno Unit - John Day Fossil BedsClarno Unit

View from the Blue Basin Overlook TrailBlue Basin Unit

#24 Sutton Mountain – Hiked 4/30/2016
Sutton Mountain Rim

#25 Spanish Peak – Hiked 7/19/2021 & 7/20/2021
Spanish Peak from the Ochoco Mountain Trail

#26 Madison Butte – Hiked 5/28/2024
Madison Butte from the Madison Butte Trail

#27 Wildcat Basin – Hiked 7/24/2018
Volcanic ash along the Pine Creek Traii

#28 High Lake – Hiked 7/26/2018
High Lake

#29 Strawberry Lake – Hiked 7/25/2018
Strawberry Mountain

#30 Malheur River – Hiked 6/17/2021
Malheur River Trail

#31 Canyon Mountain – Hiked 7/22/2021
Canyon Mountain Trail

#32 Monument Rock – Hiked 7/21/2021
Cairn on Monument Rock

#33 Bates and Sumpter – Hiked 9/17/2017
Sumpter Valley Dredge

#34 Olive Lake – Hiked 9/18/2017
Olive Lake

#35 Granite Creek – Hiked 9/21/2017
Granite Creek Trail

#36 North Fork John Day River – Hiked 9/19/2017
North Fork John Day River Trail

#37 Mount Ireland – Hiked 7/9/2022
Mountain goat below the Mt. Ireland Lookout

#38 Baldy Lake – Hiked 9/20/2017
Baldy Lake

#39 Crawfish Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
The Lakes Lookout from Crawfish Lake

#40 Anothony Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
Hoffer Lake number one

#41 Elkhorn Crest – Hiked 8/12/2018, 8/13/2018, 8/14/2018, 8/15/2018 & 08/16/2018
Rock Creek Lake

#42 Twin Lakes – Hiked 8/13/2018
Mountain goat passing by camp

#43 North Fork Umatilla River – Hiked 6/14/2021
North Fork Umatilla River

#44 Jubilee Lake – Hiked 9/12/2021
Jubilee Lake

#45 Wenaha River – Hiked 5/25/2019
Wenaha River Trail

#46 Zumwalt Prairie – Hiked 5/26/2019
Wallowa Mountains from the Horned Lark Trail

#47 Buckhorn Lookout – Hiked 6/15/2023
Prickly pear cactus

#48 Eureka Bar – Hiked 6/14/2023
Snake River in the distance from the Imnaha Trail

#49 Hat Point – Hiked 7/21/2024
Hat Point Lookout

#50 Freezeout Saddle – Hiked 5/24/2019
Looking into Hells Canyon from the Summit Ridge Trail

#51 Hells Canyon Dam – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail along the Snake River

#52 Hells Canyon Reservoir – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail 1890

#53 Imnaha Falls – Hiked 6/12/2023
View from the Imnaha River Trail

#54 Bonny Lakes – Hiked 7/24/2024
Lower Bonny Lake

#55 McCully Basin – Hiked 7/23/2024
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#56 Mount Howard – Hiked 7/26/2024
Royal Purple Overlook

#57 Aneroid Lake – Hiked 8/22/2024
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#58 Wallowa Lake – Hiked 5/23/2019
B.C. Creek FallsB.C. Falls

#59 Ice Lake – Hiked 7/31/2016
Ice Lake

#60 Horseshoe Lake – Hiked 8/3/2016 & 8/04/2016
Horseshoe Lake

#61 Hurricane Creek – Hiked 7/22/2024
Slick Rock Falls

#62 Eagle Cap – Hiked 8/3/2016
Eagle Cap from Mirror Lake

#63 Minam Lake – Hiked 7/25/2024
Minam Lake

#64 Maxwell Lake – Hiked 8/21/2024
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#65 Chimney Lake – Hiked 8/20/2024
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#66 Wallowa Homeland – Hiked 7/14/2022
Gazebo on Tick Hill along the Wallowa Homeland Trail

#67 Bear Creek – Hiked 7/14/2022
Bear Creek

#68 Rock Springs – Hiked 7/11/2022
View from the Rock Springs Trail

#69 Moss Springs – Hiked 7/13/2022
Red's Horse Ranch

#70 Catherine Creek Meadows – Hiked 7/10/2022
Catherine Creek Meadows

#71 Burger Pass – Hiked 7/12/2022
Burger Butte from the Elk Creek Trail

#72 Tombstone Lake – Hiked 8/16/2023 & 8/17/2023
Tombstone Lake

#73 Eagle Lake – Hiked 8/13/2023
Eagle Lake

#74 Bear Lake – Hiked 8/14/2023
Bear Lake

#75 Hidden Lake – Hiked 9/9/2024
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#76 Summit Point Lookout – Hiked 8/18/2024
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#77 Pine Lakes – Hiked 8/19/2024
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#78 Fort Rock – Hiked 6/14/2014 & 5/28/2017
Fort Rock

#79 Fort Rock Valley – Hiked 5/28/2017
Crack in the Ground

#80 Hager Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2013 & 6/14/2014
Hager Mountain Trail

#81 Summer Lake – Hiked 7/24/2020
White faced ibis

#82 Winter Ridge – Hiked 7/19/2020
Summer Lake from Winter Ridge

#83 OC&E Railroad – Hiked 10/5/2018
Devil's Garden

#84 Klamath Falls – Hiked 10/20/2018
Klamath Wingwatcher Nature Trail

#85 Modoc Lava Beds – Hiked 10/6/2018
Mount Dome from Schonchin Butte Trail

#86 DeGarmo Canyon – Hiked 7/22/2020
Waterfall on DeGarmo Creek

#87 Hart Mountain Hot Springs – Hiked 7/21/2020
DeGarmo Notch

#88 Petroglyph Lake – Hiked 7/22/2020
Petroglyphs around Petroglyph Lake

#89 Steens Summit – Hiked 8/18/2021
Wildhorse Lake Trail

#90 Little Blitzen River – Hiked 8/19/2021
Little Blitzen Trail

#91 Big Indian Gorge – Hiked 8/17/2021
Big Indian Gorge

#92 Threemile Canyon – Hiked 9/3/2023
Sunflowers in Threemile Canyon

#93 Pike Creek – Hiked 6/14/2018
Steens Mountain from the Pike Creek Trail

#94 Big Sand Gap – Hiked 6/14/2018
Big Sand Gap

#95 Borax Hot Springs – Hiked 6/14/2018
Borax Lake

#96 Pueblo Mountains – Hiked 8/20/2021
Oregon Desert Trail in the Pueblo Mountains

#97 Leslie Gulch – Hiked 6/11/2018
Timber Gulch

#98 Coffeepot Crater – Hiked 6/11/2018
Coffee Pot Crater

#99 Chalk Basin – Hiked 6/13/2018
Chalk Basin

#100 Three Forks – Hiked 6/12/2018
Warm spring pools

*The Juniper Hills Preserve is owned by the Nature Conservancy and had been closed to public entry in 2023, so we were unable to hike the trails. We parked and walked to the gates to take photos. If they ever reopen it to the public we will go back.

Completing our featured hike goals provided a sense of relief. While we thoroughly enjoyed all of the hikes, and the Wallowa Mountains became our favorite destination in Oregon, we had begun to put pressure on ourselves to finish. That pressure had begun following the September 2020 wildfires that ravaged parts of the Central Cascades and left many trails closed for years. We had just finished the featured hikes in that area earlier that year and realized how close we’d come to having to put our goal on hold. In the grand scheme of things reaching 500 featured hikes is irrelevant but having worked on it for several years it was something we didn’t want to abandon. We will gig deeper into that in a later post covering finishing the 500, but it’s nice to have the urgency to get to specific places removed.

Setting the goal did provide us with an excuse to visit parts of Oregon that we’d never seen before. While we were checking off the 100 featured hikes we stopped at over three dozen additional spots including eight previously featured hikes. There are still numerous trails left for us to explore so we will almost certainly be heading back to Eastern Oregon from time to time to see new sights and possibly revisit some familiar ones. Happy Trails!

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Crooked River Wetlands – 05/27/2024

To wrap up our Memorial Day Weekend trip to Prineville we visited the Crooked River Wetlands Complex

The wetlands were opened in 2017 as a solution to the city’s wastewater needs. The complex has 5.4-miles of trails, over half of which are paved, that loop around 15 ponds of varying sizes. We were the third car to arrive, however, there were numerous raucous birds.
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DSCN4742The yellow-headed blackbirds were particularly noisy.

DSCN4743A cinnamon teal in front of two mallards?

With so many loop possibilities this is a choose your own route area. Ours wound up being primarily on the Outer Loop, but we cut back in toward the parking area between ponds 5 & 1 to make sure we passed all 13 interpretive signboards.
Screenshot 2024-05-28 113609This loop was 3.4-miles.

IMG_5543Grizzly Mountain from Pond 4.

DSCN4749Killdeer

IMG_5546One of the interpretive signboards ahead.

DSCN4757Goose family

IMG_5547There were plenty of benches to enjoy the views from.

DSCN4760Mallards

DSCN4763Cinnamon teal

DSCN4764Must be a green-winged teal but the angle of light made the patch on his head look blue.

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DSCN4775We’d never seen so many killdeer in one area.

DSCN4781Spotted sandpipers

Brewer's blackbirdBrewer’s blackbird

DSCN4783Swallow

IMG_5555Pollinator garden

DSCN4786Ring-necked ducks

DSCN4789Wilson’s phalarope

DSCN4793Yellow-headed blackbirds

DSCN4797American coot

DSCN4800Adolescent geese

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DSCN4804Dove

DSCN4806Gadwalls

DSCN4817Female yellow-headed blackbird

DSCN4829Pair of bucks.

DSCN4835Ruddy ducks

DSCN4839Red-winged blackbird harassing an osprey.

IMG_5566Gray Butte

DSCN4847A pair of hawks.

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DSCN4859Not birds.

DSCN4862Marsh wren

DSCN4864Great blue heron

IMG_5586Observation deck at Pond 10.

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DSCN4875Another marsh wren.

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IMG_5601Heading back to the parking area.

We had a lot of fun watching and listening to the birds here, and it was perfect for a morning walk. The distance allowed us to be on our way back to Salem shortly after 8am which was early enough that we avoided most of the holiday traffic.

After this weekend’s hikes we’re down to a dozen Eastern Oregon featured hikes to complete our quest for 500 (post). Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crooked River Wetlands

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Fryrear Canyon – 09/04/2023

To finish off our Labor Day Weekend we chose a hike almost halfway between Burns and Salem, Fryrear Canyon. Managed by the BLM (Prineville District) as part of the Cline Buttes Recreation Area there isn’t a lot of information available online that I could find outside of an area closure map for nesting birds from February 1st through August 31st. (Please note that the trails shown on the linked map are a little bit different than what we found.)

The Fryrear Trailhead is located along Fryrear Road which runs between Highways 20 and 126. From Highway 20 the trailhead is on the right after 2.3 miles and from Highway 126 it is on the left after 3.2 miles.
IMG_8702The trailhead has numerous parking spots for cars as well as a large horse trailhead, outhouse, and picnic tables.

IMG_8703The big signboards unfortunately did not have a map or other information about the trail system though.

We headed East past a gate on a well established path with flagging.
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IMG_8708The North Sister behind us.

After a third of a mile we came to an unsigned “T” junction where we turned right.
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We followed the path and flagging when there were forks for half a mile to the start of Fryrear Canyon.
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IMG_8715Signpost for the canyon ahead.

IMG_8717This sign was just like the ones we’d seen Saturday at the Dry River Canyon (post).

We descended into the canyon and spent the next mile admiring the rock formations and various vegetation growing along the canyon floor.
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IMG_8728

IMG_8731

IMG_8734

IMG_8735

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IMG_8741The canyon is home to some impressive ponderosa pines.

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IMG_8750Another ponderosa

IMG_8752Looking up from below the ponderosa.

IMG_8754Lichens

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IMG_8760

IMG_8767

IMG_8771

IMG_8773Townsend’s solitaire

IMG_8775Owl

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IMG_8783West wall

IMG_8784East wall

IMG_8786Wren

IMG_8787Neat rock formation.

IMG_8788Exiting Fryrear Canyon.

A short distance after leaving the canyon we arrived at a gate with a trail junction on the other side.
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IMG_8794Several mountain chickadees came to investigate as we passed through the gate.

We turned left at the unsigned junction and climbed up a small hill gaining a view of the Three Sisters.
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IMG_8805Middle and North Sister

IMG_8812Mountain bluebird

IMG_8815South Sister

A little further along we gained a view of Mt. Jefferson (behind a few clouds).
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IMG_8822Mt. Jefferson

We stayed left at junctions to complete a loop.
IMG_8823Broken Top and South Sister

IMG_8824Broken Top behind some clouds.

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IMG_8832We turned right back onto the spur trail to the Fryrear Trailhead at the end of our loop.

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IMG_8835Stellars jay

The hike was 3.3-miles with 200′ of elevation gain.

We had a great time on this hike. Fryrear Canyon was absolutely wonderful. The rock formations and textures were very interesting and so was the vegetation along the canyon floor. Throw in some wildlife and mountain views and you have the makings of a great hike. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Fryrear Canyon

Categories
Bend/Redmond Blue Mountains - South Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Dry River Canyon and Idlewild Loop – 09/02/2023

Our Labor Day Weekend plans came together in June after we’d decided that the featured hike at Dug Bar in Hells Canyon wasn’t going to happen (post). With us not willing to make the drive to that trailhead our quest to hike all 100 featured hikes in one of the editions of William L. Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon guidebooks (post) needed adjusting. We had been working out of his 2015 third edition of the “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon”, but his 2022 “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” did not include Dug Bar as a featured hike. While our Dug Bar problem was resolved by making the switch one of the new featured hikes was located in the Steens Mountain Wilderness in SE Oregon 350 miles from Salem. The long holiday weekend provided us an opportunity to head to Burns and pick up that featured hike.

We decided to stay in Burns, OR and planned on heading to the featured hike, Threemile Canyon, on Sunday. We picked a pair of other hikes for Saturday to fill the time before checking into our room. Our first stop was at the BLM managed Dry River Canyon Trail.

The canyon and trail are closed annually from February 1st through August 31st to protect wildlife, so this was a good option for this weekend having just recently reopened. We opted to park at the far end of the ODOT gravel area at a sign announcing the trail’s status as “Open”.
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This left us with a 0.6-mile road walk to the actual trailhead but saved us from having to drive the primitive rocky road.
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IMG_8152Open sign at the trailhead.

We set off on the dirt trail into the canyon which in the ancient past was the course of a river flowing from the former Lake Millican.
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IMG_8160Rabbit in the sagebrush.

IMG_8164Some of the exposed rocks showed the work of the ancient river.

IMG_8163Shaped by water.

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IMG_8274Colorful rock bands along the canyon wall.

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While the canyon is closed to protect peregrine falcon nesting there were a number of other birds among the junipers. The most surprising for us were a number of Clark’s nutcrackers which we typically see at much higher elevations where their favorite food, the seeds of whitebark pines, is found.
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IMG_8191There is a huge nest up on the cliffs.

IMG_8192The nest

IMG_8194Wren

IMG_8196American kestral

IMG_8201Tall sagebrush in the canyon.

IMG_8205The canyon reaches a depth of approximately 300′.

After just over 2 1/4 miles we arrived a boulder field where it appeared at first that the trail abruptly ended.
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We knew the BLM map showed it continuing and eventually emerging from the canyon and curving to meet Highway 20 across from the Evens Well Trailhead

We were just about to turn back when we spotted the continuation of the trail heading to the right up some rock steps.
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The trail climbed up and around the boulder field then dropped steeply back down to the canyon floor.
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IMG_8216

IMG_8218Skipper

IMG_8221I believe this is a ringlet of some sort.

Beyond the boulder field the canyon walls shortened and we were soon veering right out of the canyon onto a sagebrush plateau.
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IMG_8234Heading toward the Evens Well Trailhead.

IMG_8236Looking toward the Dry River Canyon from the plateau. It was impossible to tell that there was such a deep canyon out there.

IMG_8238Pine Mountain (post) to the SE.

We returned to the canyon and returned the way we’d come. We started seeing a few hikers on our way back as well as a number of lizards soaking in the Sun’s rays.
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IMG_8253The rock steps were more obvious on the way down them.

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IMG_8264A sparrow behind the sticks the camera was intent on focusing on.

IMG_8283Bee on buckwheat

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IMG_8287Arriving back at the official trailhead. Several SUVs were now parked here.

IMG_8290They’re hard to make out but the Middle and North Sisters were visible from the road walk back to the gravel area.

Including the road walk our hike here came in at 7.9 miles with 550′ of elevation gain.

We hopped in the car and continued East on Highway 20 to Burns. It was too early to check in so we headed for our second stop of the day at the Idlewild Loop Trail in the Malheur National Forest. There are two possible starting points for the hike. We followed the Forest Service directions in the previous link and parked at the Idlewild Campground. The other option would have been to start from the Idlewild Sno Park.
IMG_8294The trailhead at the campground.

IMG_8295Neat map at the trailhead.

The trail began by a small map along the campground road behind the big wooden map.
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We followed this path approximately 100 yards to a “T” shaped junction with the Idlewild Loop Trail where we turned right.
IMG_8299Gold flagging on the sagebrush ahead marked the junction.

IMG_8303The trail followed a fence line before turning right along Highway 395.

IMG_8304Tiny frog

IMG_8307The trail crossed this gated road near the highway. A blue diamond marked the trails continuation.

IMG_8310One of several interpretive signs along the loop.

IMG_8313Squirrel

IMG_8315The highway was just out of sight to the left.

IMG_8318Big ponderosa

We initially missed the continuation of the trail toward the Sno Park and headed downhill to the campground road.
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IMG_8322We crossed the campground road and quickly realized our mistake and backtracked.

IMG_8325This time we spotted the correct trail and forked right here.

From the unsigned junction we climbed for a tenth of a mile to a signed junction with the Microwave Trail.
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IMG_8327There were lots of dragonflies in the area.

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We turned right on the Microwave Trail and followed this trail downhill and once again crossed the campground road.
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On the far side of the road the trail passed through a fence and followed an old roadbed gently uphill.
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IMG_8336Golden-mantled ground squirrel already sporting some of its winter weight.

We followed the roadbed for a third of a mile before arriving at another signed junction.
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IMG_8341We turned right here onto the Devine Summit Trail.

The Devine Summit Trail climbed gradually before leveling out and then eventually descending back to the Idlewild Loop Trail after just over a mile.
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IMG_8344Deer in the forest.

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IMG_8350There was a bit of blowdown to navigate along the trail.

IMG_8357Some maintenance had been done in the past. There were also a good number of benches along the trail, all of which were accompanied by a post with a number.

IMG_8359Another bench near this fence.

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IMG_8366Ponderosa forest

IMG_8368White breasted nuthatch

IMG_8370Another post and bench.

IMG_8371Arriving at the Idlewild Loop on the far side of the fence.

We turned left to complete our loop and then took a right onto the spur that led back to the trailhead.
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Our little loop here came to 2.7 miles with 300′ of elevation gain.

This was a very enjoyable hike and we didn’t see another person until we were back at our car and another couple pulled up to the trailhead. We both imagined ticks could be an issue at certain times of the year but on this day the coast was clear. We made the 25 minute drive back into Burns and checked into our room and prepared for another canyon hike the following day. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Dry River Canyon and Idlewild Loop

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Mt. Jefferson Area Oregon Trip report

Metolius River Backpack – 07/22/23 & 07/23/23

Our first couple of planned backpacking trips didn’t happen for one reason or another but we really wanted to get at least one overnight trip in before August. We’d picked up some new gear that we hoped to give a test run before a longer outing we have planned for August.

Recent reports of a heavy mosquito presence at our plan “A” location forced us to look for a plan “B”. We turned to one of the early trips that hadn’t happened, a hike along the Metolius River starting from the Lower Bridge Campground. Matt Reeder describes 10.1-mile hike to a former trailhead that once served the Shut-In Trail in his “101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region”. By all accounts the Shut-In Trail was a brushy mess, at least beyond a mile from the former trailhead. Our plan was to set up camp at the old trailhead and then explore the Shut-In Trail as far as it was passable.

Reeder mentioned that ticks could be a nuisance in the Spring but by this time they and most of the mosquito’s wouldn’t be a problem. The downside of visiting this time of year though would be the heat with highs forecast in the upper 80s. The temperature was pleasant when we arrived at the trailhead just after 7am. We parked at a small trailhead across from the Lower Bend Campground.
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We’d hiked through this trailhead during a 2012 hike starting from the West Metolius Trailhead (post). Lower Bridge which we’d used to cross the river had been the northern end of that hike. For this trip we would be heading further North and then East as we rounded Green Ridge (post) at the Horn of the Metolius.

To reach the trail we had to walk through the campground to the top of its loop and pass between a couple of occupied camp sites to a trail sign.
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IMG_4340The sign is visible from the campground road.

The trail quickly reached the banks of the Metolius. This 23-mile river is fed primarily by a series springs and spring fed creeks beginning with the Head of the Metolius (post). The river ends at Lake Billy Chinook (post) where it joins waters from the Crooked and Deschutes Rivers. The spring fed water is cold and clear which makes the Metolius a beautiful river.
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The trail passes a number of large campsites early on with numerous side trails for fly fishers to access the river. Reeder mentioned the trail petering out just over a mile and a half from the campground across the river from the Candle Creek Campground and recommended veering away from the river there and joining the Lower Metolius River Road.
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IMG_4359Common mergansers

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IMG_4365Ouzel

IMG_4367Goldenrod

IMG_4368Passing some of the campsites.

IMG_4384The Candle Creek Campground across the Metolius.

The trail seemed to be in pretty good shape as we passed the campground so instead of detouring to the road we stuck to the trail which was now more of a braided fisherman’s trail than a hiker trail, but it was passable without too much effort. That is until the final 100′ where we nearly lost the trail in brush before finding a very steep trail leading up to the road.
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IMG_4397We actually went left below the stump here but, on the way back wound up coming downhill by the stump.

IMG_4399More campsites.

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IMG_4403As we got further from the campground we encountered more and more brushy sections.

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IMG_4412Another section with an increased number of obstacles.

IMG_4415Getting a bit brushier.

IMG_4417We left the river for the road at this bend.

IMG_4419Heading up to the road.

IMG_4422The use trail from the road.

Several opportunities to head for the road prior to this had us deciding that we would look for one of those on the way back instead of returning exactly the way we came. We followed this road a total of 6.2 miles to where the GPS showed the road ending and the Shut-In Trail beginning. We actually were passed by a gentleman in an SUV who was heading for one a small number of private cabins located approximately 3.7 miles from where we’d joined the road. He stopped to ask where we were headed and wished us a good hike.
IMG_4423

IMG_4427We wondered what this post signified.

IMG_4432They were way past blooming but there were several mountain lady slippers along the road.

IMG_4434

IMG_4446Osprey nest

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IMG_4462Rock spire on lower section of Green Ridge. There are several interesting rock features higher up on the northern end of Green Ridge that were not visible from the road.

IMG_4463Orchid

IMG_4470Scarlet gilia

IMG_4474Some of the private cabins from the road.

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IMG_4476

IMG_4635

IMG_4482A couple more cabins.

Based on the Oregonhikers field guide we had expected the road beyond the private cabins to have downed trees but instead found they had all been cut and there were even tire tracks, bicycle most likely, all the way to the Shut-In Trail.
IMG_4483The end of the private land.

IMG_4485The clear water allows for nice views of the rocks making up the riverbed.

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IMG_4490

IMG_4492Even though it had received maintenance the road was not in good enough condition for larger vehicles.

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IMG_4506

IMG_4507Pink monkeyflower

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IMG_4516

IMG_4520Lorquin’s admiral

IMG_4524The forest opened up near the end of the road where we set up camp.

IMG_4538

IMG_4544Campsite

IMG_4528Yellow monkeyflower

We had arrived at our campsite a little before 12:15pm and it was really heating up, so we broke out our camp chairs and rested for several hours near the river before fixing an early dinner and setting off on the Shut-In Trail.
IMG_4541Lizard hanging out near the campsite.

After an early dinner we set off on the Shut-In Trail which we were surprised to find had seen some recent maintenance.
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IMG_4550

IMG_4557Grouse

IMG_4560The answer to the questions is yes bears do.

IMG_4562The Metolius through the trees.

IMG_4566Sagebrush mariposa lily. There also tire tracks in the trail behind.

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IMG_4570Recent brushing had been performed through this area.

IMG_4571Looking up the end of Green Ridge.

IMG_4573This large tree had been cut fairly recently.

IMG_4576Flagging marking a reroute around a downed tree.

After a little more than a mile and a half of good trail things began to deteriorate.
IMG_4581Starting to get brushy.

IMG_4582View across the river to the Warm Springs Indian Reservation.

IMG_4584Flowers along the Metolius.

IMG_4589

IMG_4591The Whitewater River was behind the rock formation on the far side. The Whitewater River begins at the Whitewater Glacier on Mt. Jefferson and flows roughly 7.5 miles through the Warm Springs Reservation to the Metolius.

IMG_4592More clear water.

IMG_4593Fireweed

IMG_4595Thimbleberries provided us with a few after dinner snacks.

IMG_4596Hedgenettle

IMG_4601The Shut-In Trail traveled right along the riverbank at times.

There was one section along the hillside that had experienced some pretty significant erosion.
IMG_4611 There was a small set of boards nailed together to assist with crossing the sketchiest part, but they were just lying on the hillside and not anchored in any way.

Just under two and a half miles from our camp we arrived at County Road 64. One could continue along this closed road for 4.6 miles to a gate just beyond the Monty Campground. A seasonal gate is located another 1.7-miles from the campground along the Metolius arm of Lake Billy Chinook.

IMG_4605The Shut-In Trail from CR-64.

IMG_4606CR-64

After a short break at the road we headed back.
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IMG_4612Frog on a skunk cabbage leaf. There were a few wet areas along the Shut-In Trail which meant a few mosquitos were present.

IMG_4616The Sun going down as we approached camp.

Our first day wound up being 15.3-miles, 10.5 to reach camp and a 4.8-mile round trip on the Shut-In Trail. The elevation gain was only about 800′ total.

We woke up early the next morning hoping to stay ahead of the heat. After breakfast and packing up we followed the Lower Metolius River Road a total of 8-miles before cutting down to the trail along the river.
IMG_4624

IMG_4634Pinedrops

IMG_4640Squirrel

IMG_4641Bee sleeping on thistle.

IMG_4647Large boykinia

The gentleman that had driven passed us the day before passed us again on his way into the cabins shortly before we turned off the road.
IMG_4660We turned off the road here on a well-established use trail down to the water.

Red AdmiralRed admiral. As far as I know this is the first one of this species of butterfly that we’d seen.

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IMG_4675Common wood nymph

IMG_4678Across from the Candle Creek Campground.

IMG_4681Green Ridge through some smoke. A couple of new fires, one on the Warm Springs Reservation and one East of Eugene had started over the weekend.

IMG_4682Love the colors of the Metolius.

IMG_4685Skipper on a mariposa lily.

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IMG_4699Lower Bridge Campground is ahead to the left in the trees.

Our return hike came in at 10.1-miles which was the distance Reeder indicated between the trailhead and Shut-In Trail. The elevation gain was under 500′ of very gradual uphill, mostly along the road.

Blue is our hike to camp. Yellow is the Shut-In Trai.
Red is our return to the trailhead.

Heat aside this turned out to be a great backpacking trip. Over the two days we only passed one fly fisher (near Lower Bridge Campground), the private landowner (2x in his car), and a pair of hikers (again near Lower Bridge Campground). There were people across the river at Candle Creek Campground and in Lower Bridge Campground itself, but it was about as much solitude as we could have asked for. The condition of the trails was also better than we’d expected despite the rough end of the Shut-In Trail toward CR-64. It was a successful test run of our new gear as well and we now feel ready for our longer trip coming up in August. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Middle Metolius River

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Riley Ranch Nature Preserve to Tumalo State Park – 05/29/2023

On our way home from Bend we wanted to get one more hike in and had decided on exploring the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve. There are a little under 3 miles of trail at the Reserve, but a trail along the Deschutes River connects the Reserve with Tumalo State Park making a longer hike possible.

We chose to start at the Reserve trailhead primarily due to Tumalo State Park being a fee park. The Reserve is open sunrise to sunset so we arrived early (5:20am) to try and get a jump on the crowds and our drive home.
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IMG_8895Mt. Bachelor (post) in the morning.

We stopped at the trailhead signboard to finalize our route for the day.
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We planned to stay right on Juniper and Sage Flat Loops and take the Robin’s Run down to the Canyon Loop. For the Canyon Loop we decided to go left first to hike along the Deschutes River to the Tumalo State Park Day Use Area. On our way back we would complete the Canyon Loop and stay right on the Sage Flat and Juniper Loops.
IMG_8903The start of the Juniper Loop.

IMG_8904Similar to the Metro Parks we’ve recently visited there were small maps on the trail pointers here.

IMG_8907Middle and North Sister

We spotted our first deer of the day amid the sagebrush in the distance.
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IMG_8909Blurry shot of the deer.

We detoured 40 yards to the Ben Newkirk Mountain Overlook where we saw a rabbit and some mountains.
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20230529_053544Mt. Bachelor, Broken Top, and the Three Sisters.

IMG_8920Rabbit

IMG_8925Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain (post)

IMG_8926Ball Butte

IMG_8923Broken Top (post)

IMG_8924South Sister (post)

IMG_8921Middle and North Sister

After checking out the overlook we continued on the Juniper Loop and spotted a second rabbitIMG_8930

IMG_8933

IMG_8934We passed by the shared Juniper/Sage Flat Trail and continued on the Sage Flat Loop.

IMG_8936Sageflat Loop

We turned right on the dirt Robin’s Run Trail which led fairly steeply downhill to the Canyon Loop.
IMG_8940

IMG_8944Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_8951

Turning left on the Canyon Loop quickly brought us to the Deschutes River.
IMG_8960Balsamroot along the Deschutes.

The trail follows the river with occasional “official” river access points marked by posts.
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IMG_8971

IMG_8973

IMG_8974

After 0.4 miles on the Canyon Loop we came to an unmarked spur trail that led to the top of a rock outcrop with a bench.
IMG_8983

IMG_8987Robin

IMG_8988Longhorn plectritis

IMG_8992Blackheaded grosbeak

IMG_8996Heather waited below while I climbed the outcrop.

IMG_8998The bench on top.

IMG_9001The top of the outcrop.

As I headed back down to Heather I encountered a deer about 30 yards from her that she hadn’t seen.
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We continued along the river looking for wildlife and wildflowers.
IMG_9007

IMG_9005Western stoneseed

IMG_9014Larkspur

IMG_9013I spotted something head into the river from the grass on the near bank here.

IMG_9015I spotted the grass moving before the animal below which turned out to be a beaver.

IMG_9022Beaver in the Deschutes River.

We stayed straight when the Canyon Loop turned inland. There are two cabin ruins in this area, one just a bit further along the loop and the other was just ahead on the trail along the river.
IMG_9029We followed the pointer for Tumalo State Park.

IMG_9030Cabin ruins

It was nearly 2 miles from the cabin ruins to the day use area at Tumalo State Park.
IMG_9035

20230529_063805Western wallflower

IMG_9038Lupine

IMG_9039Another river access point.

IMG_9042Rockcress, possibly sicklepod.

IMG_9044The northern boundary of the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve.

IMG_9046

20230529_065558Threadleaf phacelia

IMG_9061

IMG_9074Tumalo Creek (post) flowing into the Deschutes River.

While we were admiring Tumalo Creek we spotted a bird high up in a snag on the far side of the river.
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It turned out to be a Lewis’s woodpecker, one of the prettiest woodpeckers in Oregon.
IMG_9078

IMG_9088Crossing into Tumalo State Park.

One of the neatest features along the trail was a long footbridge crossing over some boulders along the river.
IMG_9092

IMG_9094Magpie

IMG_9098Paintbrush

IMG_9102Mallards

IMG_9105

IMG_9108Penstemon

IMG_9116A quarter of a mile from the day use area we crossed a road leading to a private bridge crossing the river.

IMG_9124Remains of another bridge in the river.

IMG_9125

IMG_9126Tumalo State Park Day Use Area

It was fun to see the day use area. In my school days some friends and I occasionally camped in the park and spent time fishing and swimming in the river.
IMG_9128

IMG_9129

IMG_9132Deschutes River at the day use area.

After reminiscing at the day use area we headed back. We kept our eyes out for more wildlife and were rewarded with a few more species of birds.
IMG_9135Kingfisher on the bridge remains. (A bit blurry due to being a long way off.)

IMG_9139A swallow and a pygmy nuthatch.

Pygmy nuthatch?Pygmy nuthatch

We turned left onto the Canyon Loop and immediately arrived at the other cabin ruins.
IMG_9156

IMG_9157

IMG_9171Bench along the Canyon Loop.

IMG_9175Northern flicker

As we neared the junction with Robin’s Run we could hear a large group of trail runners making their way down.
IMG_9178We were distracted enough by the runners that we failed to notice the deer bedded down to the right of the trail. You can see its ears sticking up here.

We waited at the junction for the group to descend and while we were standing there we finally noticed the deer.
IMG_9185There were at least four deer hanging out here.

IMG_9180

IMG_9183

After the trail runners passed by we climbed back up to the Sage Flat Trail and turned right. After just under 500′ we came to a spur trail to the Canyon Overlook where we made a quick detour.
IMG_9197The Sage Flat Loop Trail.

IMG_9202Spur to the Canyon Overlook.

IMG_9200Death camas

IMG_9209Mt. Bachelor and Tumalo Mountain

IMG_9207Mt. Jefferson

We returned to the Sage Flat Loop and continued passing a few Lewis flax blossoms before arriving at another spur trail to the Sage Flat Overlook.
IMG_9212

IMG_9213Lewis flax

IMG_9215Marker for the Sage Flat Overlook.

We skipped this overlook, primarily because I went right when the overlook was to the left but given the time of day we would have been looking directly toward the Sun.
IMG_9218Looking back at where the Sage Flat Overlook was.

Next up was the River Viewpoint which was just off the Sage Flat Loop to the right.
IMG_9220

20230529_090929

IMG_9222

IMG_9226Lizard near the River Viewpoint.

After looking at the river one last time we continued on the Sage Flat Loop which then became the Juniper Loop bringing us back to the trailhead.
20230529_091234The Cascade Mountains

IMG_9236Black Crater (post) and Mt. Washington

IMG_9241Finishing up the Juniper Loop.

Our hike came to 7.3 miles with 350′ of elevation gain.

This was a nice, convenient hike to finish off the weekend. The early start allowed us to be finished before 9:30am which put us ahead of the bulk of holiday traffic. We made it home nice and early giving us plenty of time to catch up with the cats. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Riley Ranch Nature Reserve

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon High Cascades Hiking Oregon Three Sisters Area Trip report

Tumalo Mountain Sunrise Hike – 09/26/2021

After missing a week of hiking due to heavy rains arriving for the one weekend we’d obtained a Central Cascade Wilderness Overnight Permit we were heading to Bend to celebrate Heather’s parents 50th wedding anniversary (congratulations again). That was possibly the first time we were excited to have to cancel our hiking plans as the rain (and snow on the mountains) continues to be greatly needed. Saturday was set aside for the anniversary party but we planned on getting a quick hike in Sunday morning before driving home.

In 2014 we attempted a to catch the sunrise from Tumalo Mountain (post) but were thwarted by low clouds which provided almost zero viability. Nearly seven years later (9/26/21 vs 9/27/14) we returned for another attempt and this time were rewarded with a colorful show. We arrived at the Dutchman Sno-park/Trailhead just after 5am and got ready to head out using our headlamps. Things already looked more promising than on our previous trip as the Moon was visible over Mt. Bachelor.
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IMG_5396

The Tumalo Mountain Trail gains 1425′ in two miles to the site of a former lookout tower. I hustled up to the lookout site as fast as my legs would allow and arrived a little after 6am to catch the first strip of color to the east beyond Bend.
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IMG_5412

After Heather joined me we continued further along the broad summit to the northern end where the view included Mt. Bachelor to the south and the Three Sisters and Broken Top immediately to the NW.
20210926_062629Mt. Bachelor

20210926_062918The Three Sisters and Broken Top

We spent the next half an hour watching the changing light and colors as we waited for the Sun to rise. We had brought an extra camera which I had been using the day before to photograph the anniversary. This proved interesting as each of the cameras we were using captured the sights in their own ways. As I’ve mentioned before I basically have no idea what I’m doing as far as photography and mostly I just rely on getting lucky once in awhile if I take enough photos. My usual camera is a Canon SX740HS, a small point and shoot with 40x optical zoom. Heather was using her phone, an LGE LM-G820, and the other camera, a Nikon Coolpix P900, belongs to my parents.
DSCN1128Mt. Bachelor via the Nikon.

IMG_5444Heather watching the show taken with the Canon.

IMG_5446The Three Sisters with the Canon.

IMG_5450Canon

DSCN1129Nikon

IMG_5455Mt. Bachelor (post) with the Canon.

IMG_5461Canon shortly before the Sun became visible.

IMG_5462Canon shortly before the Sun became visible.

DSCN1140The Three Sister just before sunrise with the Nikon.

20210926_064832The Three Sister just before sunrise with Heather’s phone.

IMG_5467Canon moments before sunrise. A line of wildfire smoke on the horizon gave it a red tint.

IMG_5469Canon

IMG_5471Canon catching the Sun.

IMG_5473Canon

DSCN1155The Three Sisters and Broken Top (Nikon)

DSCN1157South Sister (post) (Nikon)

DSCN1156Middle and North Sister (Nikon)

DSCN1158Broken Top (post) (Nikon)

IMG_5481Aline glow hitting the mountains. (Canon)

IMG_5478South Sister (Canon)

IMG_5479Middle and North Sister (Canon)

IMG_5480Broken Top (Canon)

IMG_5484Mt. Bachelor (Canon)

We started back down as soon as the sun was up.
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IMG_5497

There were lots of views of Mt. Bachelor on the way down and we could also make out Mt. Thielsen (post) and Mt. Scott (post) further south.

IMG_5503Mt. Scott to the left and Mt. Thielsen to the right.

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IMG_5519Grouse

IMG_5523Chipmunk

IMG_5528Mt. Bachelor as we arrived back at the snow-park.

We finished our hike just after 7:45am and headed back to Salem. The hike had been everything we could have hoped for. There were just enough clouds in the sky to create some beautiful colors (the lingering smoke even added a bit although we would rather it wasn’t in the air) and the mountains were all clearly visible. My GPS showed a total of 4.7 miles which made sense given it was too cold to simply sit while we waited for the sunrise, spending over half an hour wandering around at the summit.

There were two other groups of hikers watching the sunrise with us and we passed many more as we descended. Tumalo Mountain is a great choice for a short hike with spectacular views. It is also just outside the Three Sisters Wilderness meaning that a Cascade Wilderness Permit is not needed. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Tumalo Mountain

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon High Cascades Hiking Oregon Three Sisters Area Trip report

Whychus Creek Trail and Overlook – 05/31/21

After back to back 14 mile days we had something more reasonable planned for our drive home on Memorial Day. We had started the weekend with two hikes along Whychus Creek east of Sisters (post). On Monday we stopped at the Whychus Creek Trailhead 4.2 miles west on Elm Street (Forest Road 16) of Highway 20 in Sisters. The trailhead doesn’t seem to be listed on the Deschutes National Forest webpage (They do show the Whychus Creek Overlook Trailhead which is an alternate starting point.)

We actually wound up having to park at a temporary trailhead 1000′ past the official trailhead which was closed for construction (not sure what was being constructed).
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The Whychus Creek Trail followed Whychus Creek through a mixed forest with juniper and sagebrush from the high desert, ponderosa pine, and mixed conifers from the Cascades.
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We really noticed how much more water there was in the creek here, before reaching the diversion ditches closer to Sisters.
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Less than a half mile into the hike we passed a series of rock ledges where native tribes appear to have once camped.
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The trail reached the bank of Whychus Creek at the overhang then climbed back above the creek gaining a view of the top of the North Sister. A few wildflowers added color to the landscape and birds added their song to the sound of the creek.
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IMG_6820North Sister in the distance.

IMG_6804Penstemon

IMG_6810Chocolate lily

IMG_6815Sand lily

IMG_6817Paintbrush

IMG_6818Balsamroot

IMG_6838A Penstemon

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IMG_6841Squirrel!

Just over a mile and a half from the trailhead the Whychus Creek Trail descended back down to the creek passing under some cliffs.
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IMG_6845

IMG_6849

20210531_063851The penstemon really liked the cliff area.

Looking up stream we could see the logjam waterfall which is the goal of Sullivan’s described hike in his 5th edition Central Oregon Cascades guidebook (hike #31).
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Near the two mile mark we arrived at a series of viewpoints of the falls atop rocks.
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There was a second smaller cascade a little further upstream.
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Sullivan suggests turning back here but just over a half mile away was the Whychus Creek Overlook. A 0.9 mile barrier free loop visits the overlook from the Whychus Creek Overlook Trailhead (see link above). We continued past the falls for approximately 0.2 miles to a signed trail junction.
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We turned left onto the Whychus Draw Trail which led briefly up a draw before turning more steeply uphill traversing an open hillside to the overlook.
IMG_6882

IMG_6887Mt. Hood sighting.

IMG_6889Mt. Jefferson and Black Butte

IMG_6892Chipmunk

IMG_6895White breasted nuthatch

IMG_6897Golden mantled ground squirrel

The Whychus Draw Trail connected to the south side of the Whychus Overlook Trail about a hundred feet from the actual overlook.
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IMG_6913Broken Top and the Three Sisters (bonus points for spotting the golden mantled ground squirrel)

IMG_6912Lewis flax at the overlook.

IMG_6915Buckwheat and penstemon

IMG_6918Whychus Creek below with the Three Sisters on the horizon.

IMG_6919Tam McArthur Rim (post) and Broken Top

IMG_6921South Sister

IMG_6922Middle and North Sister

IMG_6923Mt. Washington

IMG_6924Three Fingered Jack

IMG_6928Mt. Jefferson

IMG_6931Chickadee

After admiring the view from the overlook we hiked the loop. One side (north) is one-way traffic coming from the trailhead to the overlook so we followed the south half of the loop 0.4 to the trailhead then followed the north side 0.5 miles back to the overlook. Two benches along the north side offered additional views to the NNW.
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IMG_6943

IMG_6947Interpretive sign along the trail.

IMG_6955Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and Black Butte

From the overlook we returned to the car the way we’d come. It was a pleasant 5.9 mile hike with some great views and scenery, a perfect way to end the holiday weekend. Happy Trails!

Track for Whychus Creek and Overlook

Flickr: Whychus Creek Trail

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Whychus Canyon Preserve, Alder Springs, & Huntington Wagon Road – 05/29/21

**In 2025 the Alder Springs Fire burned over the Alder Springs Trail and the Flat Fire burned over the Whychus Canyon Preserve.**

For Memorial Day weekend this year we headed to Bend to visit Heather’s family and of course do some hiking. Having finally reached our goal of completing all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades” 4th edition last year (post) we kicked off this trip with a stop at a the Whychus Canyon Preserve, which was a new featured hike in his 5th edition.

The 930 acre preserve is owned and managed by the Deschutes Land Trust who have established over 7 miles of hiker only (dogs on leash) trails open to the public. The focus here is conservation so respecting the rules and Leaving No Trace is imperative (as it always should be) in order to keep the access open. We arrived at the trailhead a little after 7am on Saturday morning to find the parking area empty.
IMG_5809Kiosk and bench at the trailhead.

A map at the kiosk shows that there are a number of loops possible here and we decided to deviate slightly from the route described by Sullivan.
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From the kiosk we followed a pointer for the Rim & Creek Trails onto a dirt path.
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The trail led slightly downhill, through a red gate and after just 0.2 miles arrived a “T” shaped junction with the Rim Trail where Sullivan has you turn right. We opted for a slightly longer loop and turned left instead.
IMG_5815Tent caterpillars (and the red gate)

As we followed the Rim Trail west along the canyon we began to get some good mountain views.
IMG_5827Mt. Washington and Black Butte (post)

IMG_5837Broken Top, The Three Sisters, Black Crater (post), Little Belknap & Belknap Crater (post), and Mt. Washington.

After 0.4 miles the trail made a 180 degree turn dropping further into the canyon.
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IMG_5843Whychus Creek was hidden by trees for the most part.

While there weren’t a lot of wildflowers a number of different types were present.
IMG_5847Balsamroot

IMG_5850Lupine

IMG_5855Paintbrush

IMG_5870A Penstemon

IMG_5874Western stoneseed

IMG_5875Sedum leibergii -Leiberg’s Stonecrop

IMG_5848Spreading stickseed

IMG_5853Western wallflower

In addition to the various flowers we spotted some varied wildlife as well.
IMG_5844Magpie playing hard to get.

IMG_5864Spotted towhee

IMG_5895Black-headed grossbeak

IMG_5885Ochre ringlet

IMG_5898Pair of bucks in Whychus Creek

This is a good time to mention how much I appreciate the zoom on my Canon XS740HS. While I often look at other peoples photos and wish mine were as crisp/clear the compact size and low price (compared to even low end DSLR cameras) of the little point and shoot has worked well enough. Those two bucks are a good example as we spotted them from here.
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Approximately 0.6 miles from the big turn we arrived at a signed junction. Uphill led back to the trailhead (where we would have come down following Sullivan’s directions) while the Creek Trail headed downhill to the left.
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We turned downhill and switchbacked downhill for 0.2 miles to Whychus Creek.
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We followed along the creek on this trail for 1.5 miles, ignoring a steep trail to the right at the 0.8 mile mark. The sounds of the creek combined with the songs of birds made for a relaxing stroll through the canyon.
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20210529_081300Chokecherry

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IMG_5941Star-flower false solomonseal

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IMG_5950Trail junction at the 0.8 mile mark.

20210529_082320Spider on a wallflower.

IMG_5953Lewis flax

20210529_084000 Heuchera cylindrica -roundleaf allumroot

At the 1.5 mile mark the trail turned uphill away from the creek and made a turn back toward the trailhead.
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The trail climbed for 0.4 miles before leveling out near a rock outcrop where a side trail to the right led to a viewpoint.
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IMG_5969Oregon sunshine

IMG_5976Buckwheat and penstemon

IMG_5982Sign post for the viewpoint.

IMG_5983Heading for the rock outcrop/viewpoint.

IMG_5990Middle and North Sister with Whychus Creek below.

Two tenths of a mile beyond the viewpoint we passed the upper end of the cutoff trail coming up from the Creek Trail.
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We were now on the Meadow Trail which we followed for 1.5 miles (ignoring a signed trail to the left at the 0.5 mile mark). We were still spotting different flowers and wildlife on this stretch.
IMG_5998A monkeyflower

20210529_092023Sand lilies

IMG_6004Trail sign in the distance for spur trail to the Santiam Wagon Road.

IMG_6008Death camas

IMG_6011Sagebrush false dandelions

IMG_6021Pinion jay

IMG_6034Mountain bluebird pair

IMG_6041Mourning dove

IMG_6047unidentified little songbird.

IMG_6051Lizard

IMG_6058Second type of lizard

IMG_6060Showy townsendia

Just before reaching the trailhead the trail joined the Santiam Wagon Road at an interpretive sign.

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This wasn’t the first time we’d been on this historic 400 mile route between the Willamette Valley and Eastern Oregon (House Rock, Iron Mountain, Fish Lake, Sand Mountain , ) but it did mark the eastern most portion we’d been on.

We turned right on the Wagon Road for a few steps and were back at the trailhead where there was now a second car. We were surprised there weren’t more considering how nice a hike it had been. We logged just a little over 5 miles on our GPS and were now ready to head to our second stop of the day at the Alder Springs Trailhead.

Whychus Canyon Track

This was another chance to visit Whychus Creek but unlike Whychus Canyon we had done the hike at Alder Springs before (post). That hike had been almost 10 years prior having taken place on 8/3/2011. Two things stand out about that first visit. Most notably we only did the Alder Springs hike because our Plan A, Benson Lake/Scott Mountain Loop, was still under too much snow (also the mosquitos were horrendous). It has been quite some time since there has been that much snow that late in the year, yes climate change is real. Secondly it was a really nice hike but August probably wasn’t the best month for it. It’s been on my list of hikes to revisit at a different (better) time of the year. The road to the trailhead is seasonally closed (typically 12/1-3/31) so April or May seemed the best time to catch wildflowers and cooler temperatures.

Another difference between Whychus Canyon and Alder Springs is the access road. While the former is almost entirely paved with a short stretch of good gravel the latter is not far removed from a 4×4 jeep track. Rocks, washouts, and dried mud holes await for most of the final 4.7 miles to the rather larger parking area which we were surprised to find nearly full at 10:15am. At first we couldn’t figure out why there were so many cars SUVs and trucks here while it was just us and one other car at the preserve then it hit us, you can camp here. That realization came from overhearing a large group saying something about having to make two trips down and “the beer”.
IMG_6066Looking back up the dirt access road to the North Sister, Mt. Washington and Black Butte
IMG_6067The trailhead signboard.

This time we didn’t take the side trip down the 0.4 mile Old Bridge Trail but otherwise it was the same route as we had taken nearly 10 years before. The big difference was the number of wildflowers in bloom and the number of people we encountered, mostly on the way back to the car. The scenery was stunning and the ford at the 1.5 mile mark refreshing.
IMG_6070Buckwheat

20210529_103018Rough eyelashweed

IMG_6094Yarrow

IMG_6103Fiddleneck

20210529_104231Largeflower hawksbeard

IMG_6111Purple cushion fleabane

IMG_6114Oregon sunshine

20210529_104625Blue mountain prairie clover

20210529_104747Lewis flax

IMG_6122Lupine

IMG_6123Bearded hawksbeard

IMG_6134Haven’t id this one yet.

IMG_6118The Three Sisters, Belknap Crater and Mt. Washington with some dancing clouds.

IMG_6126Whychus Creek Canyon

IMG_6136Love the different rock formations in the canyon.

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IMG_6146

IMG_6143Catchfly

IMG_6149Balsamroot

IMG_6160Paintbrush

IMG_6161Pretty sure this side creek was dry on our previous visit.

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IMG_6171Whychus Creek at the ford.

We’ll get into a little more of the history of Whychus Creek when we cover our Memorial Day hike but we noted that the water level seemed about the same as it had on our previous crossing and that the water was surprisingly warm given the source of the creek is the glaciers and snowfields of Broken Top and the Three Sisters. After a bit of thinking it dawned on us that higher up near Sisters water is diverted to irrigation ditches and other uses.

IMG_6176Alder Springs

IMG_6181Columbine

20210529_113821A clarkia, possibly Lassen

20210529_113835Threadleaf phacelia

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IMG_6217Unknown

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IMG_6228

20210529_121450Creek dogwood and a beetle covered in pollen

20210529_125533Grand Colloma

20210529_124730Deadly nightshade

IMG_6305Rose with crab spider

20210529_125446
Veatch’s blazingstar

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IMG_6254

IMG_6255Dragon fly

We took a break at the end of the trail along the Deschutes River before hiking back just as we had done on the previous visit.
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IMG_6300Confluence of the Deschutes (left) and Whychus Creek (right).

Butterflies and birds were out in force on the hike back.
IMG_6311Bald eagle

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IMG_6359Cedar hairstreak

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IMG_6369Turkey vulture

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IMG_6389Mountain chickadee

The hike here came in at 6.4 miles and 650′ of elevation gain giving us a little over 11.5 miles and 1120′ of climbing so far on the day.

Track for Alder Springs

We had one more quick stop planned for the day. Our first hike had been on Deschutes Land Trust land and the second in the Crooked River National Grassland managed by the Ochoco National Forest and our final stop at the Huntington Wagon Road was on BLM land. The hike here was of particular interest to me as the trailhead is only 2 miles from where I lived from 2nd grade until leaving home for college and yet I had no idea it was there. The BLM has created a 1.2 mile long interpretive trail along a section of a route that was built to haul supplies from The Dalles to build Fort Klamath.
IMG_6395Trailhead on McGrath Road.

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There is a lot to see along the trail as far as scenery goes. It’s mostly sagebrush and juniper with some lava formations mixed in. The history is what makes this hike interesting, and the dozens of lizards scurrying about.
IMG_6400A 300+ year old juniper named an Oregon Heritage Tree

IMG_6404Sagebrush, juniper and lava – my childhood 🙂

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IMG_6411

IMG_6408Tree blaze

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IMG_6414Buckwheat

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IMG_6423Ruts along the wagon road.

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IMG_6427Skipper on Showy townsendia.

IMG_6433Post marking the relic fence line and turnaround point.

IMG_6434An old fence post and barbed wire.

IMG_6436Junipers are some interesting trees, they come in all shapes and sizes.

Track for the Huntington Wagon Road

In total we hiked 14 miles with 1150′ of elevation gain. We got to see two sections of Whychus Creek and Canyon as well as parts of two historic Wagon Roads. We ended the day by enjoying some homemade lasagna at Heather’s parents place. Not a bad way to start a holiday weekend. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Whychus Canyon Preserve, Alder Springs, and Huntington Wagon Road

Categories
Bend/Redmond Central Oregon Hiking Oregon Trip report

Wildcat Canyon (Maston Trail System) – 10/11/2020

A wet weather system arrived with the weekend dropping some much need rain over the wildfires in Oregon and depositing a decent amount of new snow on the Cascades. This was great news and one of the few times that we were more than happy that our original plan was forced to change due to weather. We were going to be in Bend to celebrate the 75th birthday of Heather’s Dad which provided us an opportunity to hike in the rain shadow of the Cascades before heading home Sunday morning. It was a nice celebration and a rare event for all our calendars to align and be together.

Having finished all 100 featured hikes (post) in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades” (4th edition) we turned to his 5th edition of the book and decided to check out Wildcat Canyon (Hike #36). Wildcat Canyon is part of the Bureau of Land Management’s Maston Trail System, a 4,000 acre mixed use network of trails for hikers, bikers, and equestrians. It also happens to be located in my old stomping grounds near Tumalo, OR. The Maston Trailhead (see previous link) is less than 10 driving miles from the my parent’s old house between Bend and Redmond and just over 5 miles from my former elementary school. Way back then the Maston Trail System didn’t exist but I had spent time exploring the Deschutes River Canyon near that area, closer to Eagle Crest Resort, so I was excited to check the trail system out.

We were the second car at the Maston Trailhead that morning.
Sunrise at the Maston Trailhead

Maston TrailheadCline Buttes from the Maston Trailhead.

It was a crisp morning with a bit of frost on the ground, the kind of morning that reminded me of a high school job I had moving irrigation pipes at a nearby farm. We set off through the equestrian parking area and passed through an open fence by a trail map.
Equestrain trail at the Maston Trailhead

Maston Trailhead map

This was the Settlement Trail (an equestrian/hiker only trail), named for the settlers who had cleared the land and began constructing farms in the early 1900’s in preparation of the arrival of irrigation water. The water never came and by the 1930’s the farms had been abandoned.
Interpretive sign at the Maston TrailheadInterpretive sign at the Maston Trailhead telling the story of the settlers.

Old foundations along the Settlement TrailStone foundation of one of the abandoned buildings along the Settlement Trail.

We followed the Settlement Trail by staying right at junctions for the first 1.5 miles.
Settlement Trail

Settlement TrailTypical sign at a junction. Not all of the junctions had signs and not all of the signs identified which trail/junction it was so having a copy of the trail system map is a really good idea.

There were a lot of different birds about but most wouldn’t stay still long enough for a picture and those that did perched at the top of junipers distant enough to make identifying them even with a 30x zoom a bit difficult.
Songbird atop a juniperThis one may be a sparrow of some sort, it was signing quite a bit.

Bird atop a juniperPossibly another sparrow or a finch or something else.

Bluebird atop a treeMaybe a bluebird?

We took a wrong turn at a junction just over a half mile from the trailhead. We had been expecting to see the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead to our right which our guidebook indicated we should go down to, so when we spotted a signboard along a road less then a tenth of a mile to our right we headed for it. When we got to the little pullout at the road we double checked the map and realized that we had turned right too early so we turned around and returned to the junction. We turned right again and continued on the Settlement Trail another quarter of a mile to the actual Wildcat Canyon Trailhead.
Wildcat Canyon Parking from the Settlement TrailWildcat Canyon Trailhead off to the right.

We spotted the only non-bird wildlife of the day near this trailhead when a rabbit raced out of the sagebrush and paused briefly on the other side of a juniper.
Out of focus rabbit behind the juniperI managed to snap one photo and of course the camera focused on said juniper instead of the rabbit beyond.

We stayed straight at the trailhead on the Settlement Trail which was now almost directly next to the Rockbar Trail (a mountain bike trail). The Settlement Trail quickly arrived on the basalt cliffs above the Deschutes River Canyon.
Deschutes River and Wildcat CanyonWildcat Canyon on the right joining the Deschutes River Canyon

Deschutes RiverThe Deschutes River near where the canyons meet.

Deschutes RiverGrizzly Mountain in the distance beyond the Deschutes River.

The trail turned north along the canyon rim which we followed for half a mile, switching to the Rockbar Trail when the equestrian trail crossed over it.
Deschutes RiverAnother of several viewpoints along the rim.

Deschutes RiverSome Fall color along the Deschutes River.

Rock doveRock dove

Deschutes River CanyonA viewpoint along the Rockbar Trail.

Deschutes River

Deschutes RiverLooking south up the river canyon.

Deschutes RiverA calm pool along the Deschutes.

Stellar's jayI could see this one, a Stellar’s jay.

Shortly after the Rockbar Trail turned away from the canyon it crossed a private road.
Rockbar TrailComing up to the road.

We followed Sullivan’s instructions and jogged left 100′ picking up the equestrian trail again.
An equestrian continuing on the far side of Necomb Road

We turned uphill on the equestrian trail to a junction with the Headgate Trail, another mountain bike trail, in just 100 yards.
Headgate Trail

We turned left following this single track through the juniper and sagebrush for approximately 2 miles ignoring side trails along the way.
Headgate Trail

Headgate TrailThis was Junction 2 (one of the junctions with an identifying sign). We stayed right on the Headgate Trail here.

At a slightly higher elevation than the Settlement Trail the Headgate Trail would have provided a fairly nice view of the Cascades but on this day they were mostly shrouded in clouds although we could see fresh snow on Tam McArthur Rim (post) and on the lowest portion of the South and North Sisters.
View from the Headgate TrailTam McArthur Rim is left center with South Sister in the center and North Sister to the right center.

We turned down what we believe on the map to be the Maston Tie Trail (it was unmarked) and followed it for a quarter of mile back to the beginning of the Settlement Trail at the Maston Trailhead.
Maston Tie TrailHeather and Dominique on the Maston Trail.

Maston Tie Trail comging back to the Maston TrailheadComing up on the Settlement Trail.

This wound up being a nice loop, just under 5 miles, with minimal elevation gain (200′ or so). The network of trails provides options for both shorter and longer loops too with multiple starting points available. We hope to come back again in the Spring some year to check out more of the area and see what it looks like during a different season. Until then this was a great introduction to the area. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Wildcat Canyon