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Hiking

The Hikes of 2024 – A Look Back

2024 was a big year for us hiking wise. It wasn’t the number of hikes (55 days on trail) or mileage (496.8), but the culmination of an eight-year goal to complete all 100 hikes from a single edition of William L. Sullivan’s five regional guidebooks (post).

With our focus set on finishing the Eastern Oregon book, and in the process the 500 hikes, we primarily stuck to Oregon this year. In order to complete that goal we took three separate trips to NE Oregon and one to Central Oregon. We did spend three days hiking in Washington but failed to make it to California or Idaho this year. We also only spent four days hiking in Southern Oregon in 2024.
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Our easternmost hike was at Hat Point, Oregon above Hells Canyon (post).
Hat Point Lookout

Our southernmost hike was an overnight trip in the Sky Lakes Wilderness (post).
South Puck Lake

As always seems to be the case our westernmost hike involved the Pacific Ocean, this time at Crescent Beach (post).
Bird Rocks

Finally, our northernmost hike was during the same day as our westernmost hike. After visiting Crescent Beach we drove north to Oregon’s Fort Stevens State Park for a hike which was further north than any of the hikes we did in Washington this year.
Fort Stevens Earthworks interpretive sign

As mentioned above there were 55 days spent hiking which included a total of 84 stops. Twenty of the stops involved trails that we’d hiked before but none of these were exact repeats. Out of the 496.8 miles 75.4 were repeated from previous years.

One unique aspect to this year was relying on different forms of transportation for two of the hikes.
Wallowa Lake TramwayIn July we took the Wallowa Lake Tramway up Mount Howard (post).

Wizard IslandIn August we traveled by boat to Wizard Island in Crater Lake National Park (post).

We were fortunate to have good weather for most of the year. It got damp at the end of October and stayed that way for most of the remainder of the year, but our November vacation took us to Disneyland (post) where the weather was close to perfect. That was our first non-hiking (albeit a lot of walking) vacation since 2012.
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While weather wasn’t an issue, wildfires were. In particular smoke from a record setting 1,937,512 burned acres beginning with the Little Yamsay Fire in April. The fires really took off in July and the fire season wasn’t officially declared over until October 28th.
Town Gulch FireThe Town Gulch Fire near Carson, OR was dangerously close to blocking our access to one of the featured hikes we needed to do to finish our goal (post).

Here are a some of our favorite sights from the previous year.
Corvallis to Sea TrailJanuary – Corvallis to Sea Trail

Sunrise from Maple Creek RoadFebruary – Sunrise from Maple Creek Road

Mary's Peak from the Allen Throop LoopMarch – Mary’s Peak from Fitton Green

Bridal Veil FallsApril – Bridal Veil Falls

Fishhawk FallsMay – Fishhawk Falls

Willow Creek TrailMay – Willow Creek Trail

Painted hills at Juniper Hills PreserveMay – Juniper Hills Preserve (The trails here were/are closed so we simply parked along the road and took pictures.)

Madison Butte RoadMay – Madison Butte

Russ Jolley's Cook Hill Summit TrailJune – Cook Hill

Deception Butte TrailJune – Deception Butte Trail

Mt. AdamsJune – Mt. Adams from Big Huckleberry Mountain

Diamond Peak from the Grasshopper Mountain TrailJune – Grasshopper Meadow (Unfortunately this area burned by the Young Grasshopper Fire in September.)

View from Horsepasture MountainJuly – Horsepasture Mountain

Table Rock from the Nasty Rock TrailJuly – Nasty Rock Trail

Lower Bonny LakeJuly – Lower Bonny Lake

Minam LakeJuly – Minam Lake

View from Mount HowardJuly – Mount Howard

The PinnaclesAugust – The Pinnacles

Downing Creek FallsAugust – Downing Creek Falls

Schneider CabinAugust – Schneider Cabin

Pine Lakes TrailAugust – Pine Lakes Trail

Laverty LakeAugust – Laverty Lake

Aneroid LakeAugust – Aneroid Lake

Hidden LakeSeptember – Hidden Lake

Mt. Jefferson from Sprague LakeSeptember – Mt. Jefferson from Sprague Lake

Black Wolf MeadowsSeptember – Black Wolf Meadows

Mt. Hood and the White River CanyonOctober – White River Canyon

Kinzel LakeOctober – Kinzel Lake

Mt. June from the Sawtooth TrailOctober – Sawtooth Trail

Sunrise from the Prairie TrailOctober – William L. Finely National Wildlife Refuge

Gold Lake ShelterOctober – Gold Lake Shelter

North FallsNovember – Silver Falls State Park

McKenzie River TrailDecember – McKenzie River Trail

We couldn’t have asked for much more out of this year’s hikes and for the first time in eight years we don’t have any specific hiking goals that we are working on. Our focus will remain on visiting trails that we still haven’t hiked as well as expanding the areas we’ve visited. Happy Trails!

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Merriam Point and Wizard Island (Crater Lake NP) – 08/04/2024

When we decided to try and hike all 100 featured hikes in a single edition of each of the five areas covered in William L. Sullivan’s 100 Hikes books (post) we decided that the criteria for being able to check off a hike was doing (or attempting to do) at least a portion of the hike. Sullivan often provides multiple options for each featured hike with some options being 20+ mile one-way trips or nearly 30-mile loops. Doing every option in their entirety just wasn’t feasible when you also factor in having to deal with trail closures due to fires, damage, or restricted access.

In 2023 we completed the southern Oregon & northern California area (post), but missed out on a portion of three hikes in Crater Lake National Park. On Saturday we’d finished up two of the hikes, The Pinnacles and Lady of the Woods (post). The third hike that we’d been unable to do in its entirety was on Wizard Island which requires taking a boat from Cleetwood Cove (post). The boats did not operate in 2023, an issue caused by the previous contracted concessionaire, so we were only able to hike down to the docks at the cove on that trip.

We reserved tickets ahead of time for the Wizard Island shuttle which is a 15-minute boat ride from Cleetwood Cove to Wizard Island. There were two other tours available, one a trip around the lake, and the other stops at Wizard Island on its way around the lake. Had we not needed to get home the same day we would have opted for the latter, but a tour around the lake would need to wait for another time. We nearly blew the whole thing though.

Somehow we got it into our heads that our shuttle left Cleetwood Cove at 12:30pm. We slept in and left our room so that we’d arrive at Beckie’s Cafe in Union Creek when it opened at 8am. After eating, and buying a whole blackberry pie to share with my parents, we made our way to the park and stopped at several viewpoints along the rim to admire the views. The overcast and smokey skies from the day before had given way to big fluffy white clouds and relatively blue sky.
IMG_1455Llao Rock and Wizard Island

IMG_1460The docks on Wizard Island.

IMG_1461The views were so good even the golden-mantled ground squirrels were taking them in.

IMG_1464Mt. McLoughlin (post) and Union Peak (post).

IMG_1475Cassin’s finches

IMG_1481Mount Scott (post) across the lake.

IMG_1482Wizard Island’s Fumarole Bay

IMG_1484The Watchman (post)

IMG_1488Mt. Bailey on the left and Mt. Thielsen (post) on the right. You can’t really make it out in the photo but with the naked eye we could see Diamond Peak (post) in between the two in the distance.

IMG_1487Smoke from the Middle Fork Fire burning inside the park boundary.

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Fire information at one of the viewpoints.

IMG_1501At this pull out we got out and hiked a little of the Rim Trail. I decided to just continue on to Merriam Point while Heather was nice enough to drive the car down and meet me.

IMG_1503Western pasqueflower seed heads.

silvery raillardellaSilvery raillardella

IMG_1516Hillman Peak (post)

IMG_1520The Watchman and Hillman Peak

IMG_1522Dwarf lupine

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We were intentionally taking our time so we wouldn’t arrive way too early for our boat tour. We had been targeting 11am to give us an hour and a half but wound up arriving a little before 10:30. That wound up being a good thing because when we went to check in we noticed that there were two shuttle times listed, 9am and 11:30. After some confusion with our tickets, Heather inadvertently pulled up our Wallow Lake Tram (post) tickets from 7/26 (issued by the same online company Fareharbor), the attendant was able to find our reservation. It had been for the 9am shuttle and there was never a 12:30 shuttle. We’d messed up pretty good. The young man was very understanding and let us know that they still had three openings on the 11:30 shuttle and that he could move us to two of those spots. We were very thankful and quickly headed down the 1.1-mile Cleetwood Cove Trail to the check in at the dock there.
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IMG_1548From left to right: Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak (post).

IMG_1554Our shuttle arriving at the docks below.

We checked in and got our boarding instruction then spent some time watching people jump into the lake from the rocks.
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When it was time we boarded the boat which zipped us over to the island.
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IMG_1566The boat traveled at about 35mph so I didn’t have too many chances to take photos. The exception was when we had to briefly circle back to retrieve someone’s hat that had flown off into the lake.

IMG_1567Nearing the island.

There are two short trails on the island, one leads to Fumarole Bay and the other to the top of Wizard Island’s cone. Most of the people in our group headed for the cone with a few heading to the bay to either fish or swim. We were also going to head up the cone first and had decided to split up and do our own thing then meet back up at the docks later.
IMG_1569The trails shared tread for the first tenth of a mile. (Toilets were to the right.)

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In the line heading up to the cone.

Part of the reason we’d decided to hike our own hikes is because I have a slight competitive streak and tend to speed up when there are people ahead of us. It wasn’t long before I’d passed most of the other hikers and was just following a pair of younger guys from San Diego.
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Looking up the cone.

IMG_1577The Watchman and Hillman Peak from the trail.

IMG_1578These two were setting a crisp pace and the only reason I was able to keep up was because they would occasionally stop for pictures and to admire the views.

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Mount Scott

IMG_1582The trail was well graded keeping the 750′ climb from ever feeling too steep.

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Prince’s pine

IMG_1584Buckwheat

IMG_1585Paintbrush

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I managed to pass the Sandiegans shortly below the summit while they were taking a few more photos. Just before the summit a hiker from a different tour passed me as she was descending and mentioned that there wasn’t anyone left at the summit.
IMG_1599The summit crater also known as the Witches Cauldron.

A 0.3-mile loop circles the crater so I headed clockwise around the loop. The pair from San Diego caught up while I was taking photos and asked if I could take one of them before continuing on.
IMG_1602Mt. Scott from the loop.

IMG_1603Llao Rock

IMG_1607Dutton Cliff, Applegate Peak, and Garfield Peak

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IMG_1611Crater Lake lodge on the rim to the right of Garfield Peak.

IMG_1612Crater Lake lodge.

IMG_1619Hikers across the crater starting the loop.

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IMG_1626Looking down toward the dock area.

IMG_1627The Watchman and Hillman Peak.

IMG_1629Looking toward Cleetwood Cove.

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Fumarole Bay is to the left of lava flow.

IMG_1639Pool in the lava flow.

After completing the loop I headed down for the Fumarole Bay Trail.
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IMG_1642Dwarf alpinegold

IMG_1644Another boat tour heading around the island.

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I had passed Heather on her way up and we spoke for a moment before going our separate ways.
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IMG_1667Heading toward Fumarole Bay.

It’s approximately a half mile to Fumarole Bay on a very rocky trail due to it being in a lava flow.
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The Watchman from the trail.

IMG_1686Fumarole Bay. Note the person fishing on the rocks to the right.

IMG_1688Fumarole Bay

IMG_1691Stream flowing into Crater Lake.

IMG_1693Hillman Peak

The trail continued around the bay for almost another half mile.
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IMG_1707Bleeding heart

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The Watchman

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I believe this may be Felt-leaf everlasting.

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An even fainter, rockier, trail continued beyond the sign marking the end of the maintained trail. I followed it for just a bit before losing it in the lava where I decided to turn around.
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I made my way back around the bay and returned to the dock where I found Heather soaking her feet in the water.
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Heather below at the edge of the lake. She had opted not to visit the bay.

I joined Heather as we waited for our return shuttle. In the meantime she took a quick dip in the lake to cool off.
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IMG_1759Here comes our ride.

Once they herded everyone back to the dock we boarded the boat and rode back to Cleetwood Cove.
IMG_1760Arriving back at the cove.

We split up again on our way up the busy Cleetwood Cove Trail.
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It got a little hazier as the day went on.

I was glad to make it back to the parking area where I changed into cooler clothes before using the restroom.
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I ran into Heather as I came out of the restrooms so we walked back to the car together and prepared for our drive home. My Wizard Island hike came to 6.6 miles including 2.2 miles to and from Cleetwood Cove. Total elevation gain was a little over 1450′. Seven hundred of that was up from Cleetwood Cove which was steeper in sections than anything on Wizard Island had been.
Screenshot 2024-08-07 051224Track including the boat rides.

Screenshot 2024-08-07 051307My Wizard Island track.

It had been a beautiful day and a lot of fun to see the lake and surrounding peaks from the island. The smoke had somehow stayed away and so had the thunderstorms. Unfortunately storms did hit other parts of the Cascades along with central and eastern Oregon igniting more wildfires. We hit heavy smoke on our drive home between Odell Lake and Oakridge reminding us of just how bad this fire season has been. A big thank you to all the firefighters working hard to try and minimize the damage. Hopefully conditions will improve sooner rather than later. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Merriam Point and Wizard Island

Categories
California Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Crater Lake Area Grants Pass Area Hiking Klamath Mountains Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Marble Mountains Medford/Ashland Area Mt. Shasta Area Mt. Theilsen/Mt. Bailey Area Oregon Red Buttes Wilderness Rogue-Umpqua Divide Roseburg Area Salmon Mountains Scott Mountains Siskiyou mountains Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trinity Alps Trinity Divide

Southern Oregon & Northern California

Several years ago we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks (post). In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post).

Generally speaking in order to check a hike off our list we need to have hiked a substantial portion of Sullivan’s described hike or visited the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 66 of the hikes we followed the books described route. For the other 34 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing all of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had longer options that would have required multiple days to complete. In some other cases we did slightly different routes, sometimes by accident.

The area covered by Sullivan in this book, as the title suggests includes parts of Southern Oregon and Northern California. It contains his southernmost featured hike, Caribou Lakes. In general the area covered in Oregon begins just North of Roseburg extending East to Highway 97 (with the exception being Klamath Falls which is included in his Eastern Oregon book), South to California, and West to Marial on the Rogue River. In California the area extends south to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, West to the Siskiyou Wilderness, and East to the Mount Shasta Wilderness.

The hikes inside the red lines represent the location of the featured hikes.
A closer look at the area covered.

In addition to the three wilderness areas in California mentioned above the featured hikes included visits to the Marble Mountain, Castle Crags, Russian, and Red Buttes Wilderness areas in California. Wilderness areas in Oregon included the Red Buttes (OR & CA share this wilderness), Kalmiopsis, Wild Rogue, Soda Mountain, Mountain Lakes, Sky Lakes, Rogue-Umpqua Divide, Boulder Creek, and Mt. Thielsen.

In addition to the 15 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments – Oregon Caves & Cascade-Siskiyou, and Crater Lake National Park.

#1 North Bank Ranch-Hiked 6/5/2015 6/25/2023
Middle Ridge Trail - North Bank Habitat
#2 Fall Creek Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022 8/7/2022 6/25/2023
Fall Creek FallsFall Creek Falls
#3 Little River Waterfalls-Hiked 8/7/2022
Yasko FallsYasko Falls
#4 Boulder Creek-Hiked 9/7/2020
Boulder Creek
#5 Twin Lakes-Hiked 6/14/2022
Twin Lakes from a viewpoint above Twin Lakes
#6 Fish Lake-Hiked 9/3/2022
Highrock Mountain from Fish Lake
#7 Buckey and Cliff Lakes-Hiked 9/3/2022
View from Grasshopper Mountain
#8 Umpqua Hot Springs-Hiked 6/13/2022
Surprise Falls
#9 Toketee and Watson Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Toketee Falls
#10 Lemolo Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Lemolo Falls
#11 Cowhorn Mountain-Hiked 9/15/2016
Sawtooth Mountain from Cowhorn Mountain
#12 Miller and Maidu Lakes-Hiked 8/1/2012
Tipsoo Peak from Maidu Lake
#13 Tipsoo Peak-Hiked 10/2/2014
Howlock Mountain and Mt. Thielsen
#14 Thielsen Creek-Hiked 8/8/2020
Pacific Crest Trail at Thielsen Creek
#15 Mount Thielsen-Hiked 9/23/2012
Mt. Thielsen
#16 Diamond Lake-Hiked 9/5/2020
Mt. Thielsen from the Dellenback Trail
#17 Mount Bailey-Hiked 8/12/2012
Mt. Bailey Trail
#18 Boundary Springs-Hiked 6/13/2014
Unnamed waterfall below Boundary Springs on the Rogue River
#19 Park Headquarters-Hiked 7/31/2023
Wildflowers along the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail
#20 Garfield Peak-Hiked 7/31/2023
View from the Garfield Peak Trail
#21 Discovery Point-Hiked 9/19/2022
Crater Lake
#22 The Watchman-Hiked 8/12/2012 7/31/2023
Rim Trail
#23 Wizard Island-Hiked 8/1/2023
Crater Lake
#24 Mount Scott-Hiked 10/2/2014
Crater Lake
#25 Plaikni Falls and The Pinnacles-Hiked 7/30/2023
Plaikni Falls
#26 Crater Peak-Hiked 7/30/2023
Garfield and Applegate Peak on the left and Mt. Scott on the right
#27 Annie Creek & Godfrey Glen-Hiked 7/30/2023 7/31/2023
View from the Godfrey Glen Trail
#28 Union Peak-Hiked 9/17/2022
Union Peak Trail
#29 Upper and Lower Table Rocks-Hiked 6/9/2017 (Lower) & 5/26/2022 (Upper)
Wildflowers on Lower Table RockLower Table Rock

Lower Table Rock from Upper Table RockView from Upper Table Rock
#30 Lost Creek Lake-Hiked 6/9/2017
Lost Creek Lake
#31 Takelma Gorge-Hiked 10/15/2020
Takelma Gorge
#32 Natural Bridge-Hiked 10/16/2020
Rogue River
#33 Union Creek-Hiked 10/17/2020 9/20/2022
Union Creek Falls
#34 Abbott Butte-Hiked 10/17/2020
Old lookout tower on Abbott Butte
#35 Hershberger Mountain-Hiked 10/16/2020
View south from Hershberger Mountain
#36 Muir Creek-Hiked 5/27/2018
Hummingbird Meadows
#37 Rattlesnake Mountain-Hiked 9/6/2020
Rattlesnake Mountain from the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail
#38 Seven Lakes West-Hiked 9/9/2023
Alta Lake
#39 Seven Lakes East-Hiked 9/9/2023
Seven Lakes Basin
#40 Blue Lake Basin-Hiked 9/18/2022
Pear Lake
#41 Mount McLoughlin-Hiked 8/27/2016
Mt. McLoughlin
#42 Fourmile Lake-Hiked 8/26/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from Fourmile Lake
#43 Sky Lakes via Cold Springs-Hiked 9/24/2022
Luther Mountain and Lee Peak from one of the Heavenly Twin Lakes
#44 Sky Lakes via Nannie Creek-Hiked 9/24/2022
Saddle Mountain, Cherry Peak, and Pelican Butte with Trapper and Marguerette Lakes from the Divide Trail
#45 Fish Lake-Hiked 10/7/2018
Fish Lake Trail
#46 Brown Mountain Lava Flow-Hiked 8/28/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from the Brown Mountain Lava Flow
#47 Lake of the Woods-Hiked 10/7/2018
Mt. McLoughlin from Lake of the Woods
#48 Mountain Lakes-Hiked 8/25/2016
Mt. McLoughlin, Whiteface Peak, Pelican Butte, and Mount Harriman from Aspen Butte
#49 Soda Mountain-Hiked 6/3/2015
Boccard Point and Mt. Shasta in the distance
#50 Pilot Rock-Hiked 7/29/2017
Columnar basalt of Pilot Rock
#51 Mount Ashland Meadows-Hiked 6/3/2015
A cloud covered Mt. Shasta from the Pacific Crest Trail on Mt. Ashland
#52 Lithia Park-Hiked 6/2/2015
Black Swan Lake in Lithia Park
#53 Bandersnatch Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Marty the Pacific Fisher from the Bandersnatch Trail
#54 White Rabbit Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Mike Uhtoff Trail
#55 Grizzly Peak-Hiked 6/5/2015
Veiw from Grizzly Peak
#56 Roxy Ann Peak-Hiked 5/30/2022
View from the Ponderosa Trail
#57 Wagner Butte-Hiked 6/4/2015
Mt. McLoughling from Wagner Butte
#58 Siskiyou Gap-Hiked 6/16/2022
Big Red Mountain
#59 Jack-Ash Trail-Hiked 5/27/2022
Jack-Ash Trail
#60 Sterling Ditch Tunnel-Hiked 6/10/2017 5/2/2023
Sterling Mine Ditch Trail
#61 Jacksonville-Hiked 6/8/2017
View from Panorama Point
#62 Enchanted Forest-Hiked 6/11/2017
Enchanted Forest Trail
#63 Observation Peak-Hiked 6/15/2022
View from Observation Peak
#64 Collings Mountain-Hiked 6/8/2017
Applegate Lake from the Collings Mountain Trail
#65 Applegate Lake-Hiked 6/8/2017 5/29/2022
Applegate Lake
#66 Red Buttes-Hiked 10/27/2015
Marble outcrop below Kangaroo Mountain
#67 Frog Pond-Hiked 6/18/2022
Cabin ruins at Frog Pond
#68 Azalea Lake-Hiked 10/26/2015
Azalea Lake and Figurehead Mountain
#69 Sturgis Fork-Hiked 10/7/2023
Boundary Trail passing through a meadow
#70 Grayback Mountain-Hiked 10/9/2023
Grayback Mountain snow shelter
#71 Oregon Caves-Hiked 10/30/2015
Looking up inside the Paradise Lost room of the Oregon Cave
#72 Mount Elijah-Hiked 10/7/2023
Lake Mountain Trail heading toward the taller Mount Elijah
#73 Sucker Creek-Hiked 10/26/2015
Sucker Creek Shelter
#74 Tanner Lakes-Hiked 10/8/2023
Tanner Lake
#75 Bolan Lake-Hiked 10/8/2023
Bolan Lake
#76 Polar Bear Gap-Hiked 7/1/2022
Polar Bear Mountain
#77 Raspberry Lake-Hiked 7/3/2022
Preston Peak and Bear Mountain from the Raspberry Lake Trail
#78 Devils Punchbowl-Hiked 7/2/2022
Devil's Punchbowl
#79 Rough and Ready Creeks-Hiked 5/12/2017
Rough and Ready Creek
#80 Babyfoot Lake-Hiked 10/9/2023
Babyfoot Lake
#81 Eight Dollar Mountain-Hiked 5/4/2023
Eight Dollar Mountain Boardwalk
#82 Illinois River Beaches-Hiked 5/4/2023
Illinois River from the Kerby Flat Trail
#83 Grants Pass Nature Trails 5/3/2023
Indian warrior along the Outback Loop
#84 Rouge River Trail East-Hiked 5/1/2023
Manzanita along the Rogue River Trail
#85 Rogue River Trail West-Hiked 6/24/2023
Rogue River Trail
#86 Paradise Lake-Hiked 6/28/2016
View from Kings Castle
#87 Sky High Lakes-Hiked 6/29/2016
Shooting star along Frying Pan Lake
#88 Campbell Lake-Hiked 6/27/2016
Cliff Lake
#89 Paynes Lake-Hiked 7/24/2017
Paynes Lake
#90 Russian Lake-Hiked 8/24/2022
Russian Lake
#91 Hidden & South Fork Lakes-Hiked 8/26/2022
Upper South Fork Lake
#92 Trail Gulch Lake-Hiked 8/25/2022
Trail Gulch Lake from the Trail Gulch Tie Trail
#93 East Boulder Lake-Hiked 8/23/2022
East Boulder Lake
#94 Kangaroo Lake-Hiked 7/23/2017
Kangaroo Lake
#95 Deadfall Lakes-Hiked 7/25/2017
Lower Deadfall Lake
#96 Caribou Lake-Hiked 7/27/2017
View from the Old Caribou Lake Trail
#97 Castle Lake-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Lake and Mt. Shasta
#98 Castle Crags-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Crags
#99 Black Butte-Hiked 7/28/2017
Mt. Eddy from the Black Butte Trail
#100 Mount Shasta Meadows-Hiked 8/22/2022
Mt. Shasta from South Gate Meadows

In our minds this was by far the most challenging area to finish even though we did so before completing Eastern Oregon. The difficulty with Eastern Oregon mostly revolves around distance from Salem and the size of the area covered. The Southern Oregon-Northern California area is smaller and the hikes not as far away, but it involved a lot of trails that frankly don’t see the level of maintenance that most of the other areas receive. While we’ve encountered rough trails, all over poison oak is much more prevalent down south which doesn’t invite pushing through overgrown tread or bushwacking around obstacles. This area has also been hit harder by fires over the last couple of decades leaving extra work to reopen them as well as remove additional blowdown as the dead trees fall over. When the conditions were good though the scenery and diverse plant and wildlife made for some spectacular hikes. There are many that we’d love to do again and several non-featured hikes that we have in our future plans, so we aren’t done with area yet. Happy Trails!

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Cleetwood Cove – 08/01/2023

For our last morning in Crater Lake National Park we had one final stop planned before heading home. A hike down the Cleetwood Cove Trail to the lakeshore. The 1.1-mile trail is the only one in the park that takes you down to the water which we thought was a fitting way to end our trip.
IMG_5932Sunrise behind Llao Rock on the way to the trailhead.

IMG_5933Crater Lake at sunrise.

IMG_5935Mt. Bailey, Diamond Peak, and Mt. Thielsen behind Red Cone.

IMG_5936Cowhorn Mountain (post), Maiden Peak (post), the Three Sisters, and Mt. Thielsen.

We were the first car at the large parking area along East Rim Drive.
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When we’d originally planned it we were going to be taking a boat tour (or at least a shuttle) over to Wizard Island to hike to the top of that cinder cone, but the boat tours weren’t open yet this year.
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We crossed East Rim Drive and started down the trail which losses 700′ via a series of switchbacks.
IMG_5944Mt. Scott (post)

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IMG_5951Dutton Cliffs, Sun Notch (post), Applegate Peak and Garfield Peak (post)

IMG_5957Looking down at the turnaround point.

IMG_5964Wouldn’t want a rock like this to come down on you.

IMG_5971Breakfast time.

IMG_5974There were “no stopping” signs at areas where the danger of rock fall was the greatest.

IMG_5975One of the tour boats.

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IMG_5996Looking back at the dock area.

We took a break at the bottom enjoying the view and watching fish jump while we prepared to make the climb back up.
IMG_6004Couldn’t get an actual fish in a photo but I barely missed this one.

We did visit the lakeshore and touch the water before heading back up.
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IMG_6006The dock at Cleetwood Cove.

It was a stiff hike back up to the parking area. We had had the lake to ourselves but were now passing the occasional hiker and fisherman on their way down the trail.
IMG_6007Not a hiker or fisherman.

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IMG_6023Llao Rock from East Rim Drive.

We were back at the car before 8am and on our way back to Salem. It had been a wonderful trip. The weather had been good, the skies not too smokey, and the scenery spectacular. It was a bit of a bummer to have missed out on Wizard Island, Lady of the Woods and The Pinnacles trail due to the closures but that just gives us an excuse to return. In fact the closure didn’t impact our ability to check the featured hikes off our to-do list. We have now hiked at least part of 92 out of the 100 Southern Oregon/Northern California hikes with the remaining eight planned for later this year (post). Happy Trails!

Flickr: Cleetwood Cove

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Castle Crest Wildflowers, Garfield Peak, Hillman Peak, Godfrey Glen, & Sinnott Memorial Overlook – 07/31/2023

For our third day in Crater Lake National Park we had another four hikes planned. We continued to try to limit the crowds we would experience so we decided on an order of the short Castle Crest Wildflower Loop first followed by Garfield Peak then a section of the Rim Trail around Hillman Peak and finally the 1-mile Godfrey Glen Loop.

The Castle Crest Wildflower Loop is part of Sullivan’s Park Headquarters featured hike along with the Lady of the Woods Trail. That latter trail was listed as closed while the Park performs renovations on the historic buildings at Park Headquarters. The trails can be connected using a tie trail which we skipped due to the closure.
IMG_5394

IMG_5395

We hiked the loop counterclockwise. The wildflowers were in good shape and the pink monkeyflower was spectacular.
IMG_5398

IMG_5405

IMG_5407

IMG_5409Bog Orchid

IMG_5411Bistort and monkeyflower

IMG_5412

IMG_5417

20230731_061418Some sort of orchid?

20230731_061511Yellow monkeyflower

IMG_5427Monkshood

IMG_5441

IMG_5443

IMG_5455

IMG_5457Bistort

IMG_5458Not sure if this is a robin or ?

IMG_5462

After the completing the loop we drove up to Rim Village where we parked between the Visitors Center and the Crater Lake Lodge.
IMG_5464Crater Lake Lodge

We followed a paved path along the rim of Crater Lake behind the Lodge to signs for the Garfield Peak Trail.
IMG_5466

IMG_5475

IMG_5478Garfield Peak from behind the lodge.

IMG_5479The Watchman and Hillman Peak

IMG_5480Golden-mantled ground squirrel with a mouth full.

IMG_5482

IMG_5484

The trail passed a grassy meadow where a doe and her twin fawns were having breakfast.
IMG_5486

IMG_5487

IMG_5489

IMG_5507

The trail climbed steadily occasionally along the rim but more often along the cliffs below Garfield Peak.
IMG_5508

IMG_5519

IMG_5521

IMG_5528

IMG_5529Mt. McLoughlin (post) and Union Peak (post) to the south.

IMG_5530Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_5531Union Peak

IMG_5534Paintbrush

IMG_5536Reservoir structure (built 1931).

IMG_5541

IMG_5542Mt. Bailey (post) to the left of Llao Rock and Mt. Thielsen to the right.

IMG_5545Mt. Bailey

IMG_5547Deer below the trail.

IMG_5552Western pasque flowers

20230731_072442

IMG_5560Arnica

IMG_5563One of several patches of snow at the higher elevations.

IMG_5578Crater Lake Lodge below to the left.

IMG_5580Mt. Scott (post)

IMG_5584

IMG_5586Clark’s nutcracker

IMG_5587Buckwheat

IMG_5589Beetle on sub-alpine fleabane.

IMG_5594Yellow-bellied marmot

IMG_5599Bench below the summit of Garfield Peak.

IMG_5602Partridge foot

IMG_5609Applegate Peak to the left and Crater Peak (post) to the right.

IMG_5611Arriving at the summit.

The 360-degree view from the summit was great even with a bit of haze from wildfire smoke.
IMG_5612Mt. Scott above the Phantom Ship.

IMG_5616

IMG_5615

IMG_5647It was a bit hard to make out but Mt. Shasta was visible to the south.

IMG_5621Cowhorn Mountain (post) to the left of Mt. Thielsen and Howlock Mountain to the right.

IMG_5628Crater Lake from the summit of Garfield Peak.

We were scanning the meadows between Garfield and Applegate Peaks and spotted what we think was a large bull elk bedded down near the tree line.
IMG_5654

IMG_5632Blurry photo due to the sheer distance away it was but it looked big.

We had the summit to ourselves, except for a few locals.
IMG_5640Union Peak behind a marmot.

IMG_5652

IMG_5653Penstemon

After a nice break at the summit we headed back down passing a few more hikers making their way up.
IMG_5660

IMG_5661Painted lady

IMG_5665There were a lot of marmots out.

IMG_5679Paintbrush, phlox and buckwheat.

IMG_5683Stonecrop, paintbrush and pearly everlasting.

IMG_5687The clear blue water of the deepest lake in the United States.

IMG_5693Yellow-rumped warbler

Near where we had seen the doe and fawns earlier I was startled by a doe who popped out of some trees right in front of me.
IMG_5698

IMG_5705

IMG_5706False hellebore

After returning to the car we drove North on Rim Drive to The Watchman Trailhead. We’d started at this busy trailhead in 2012 when we visited the fire lookout atop The Watchman. Today we would be heading in the opposite direction hiking the Rim Trail around Hillman Peak.
IMG_5712Viewpoint and The Watchman from the trailhead.

IMG_5715

IMG_5714Western pasque flowers above Crater Lake.

It was a short, stiff climb to start before the trail began a gradual descent passing behind Hillman Peak.
IMG_5716

IMG_5724Hillman Peak ahead.

There were quite a few different colors of paintbrush along the trail.
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IMG_5727

IMG_5732

IMG_5736Lounging on a rock.

IMG_5739Shasta knotweed

IMG_5745Rim Drive below the Rim Trail.

IMG_5746Mt. Bailey and Diamond Peak with Diamond Lake (post) below.

IMG_5752Red Cone with Sawtooth Mountain (post), Cowhorn Mountain, and Mt. Thielsen beyond.

Although barely visible we could make out the South Sister (post) through the haze between Cowhorn Mountain and Mt. Thielsen.

Silvery RaillardellaSilvery Raillardella

IMG_5761Snow patch on Hillman Peak.

IMG_5760Penstemon

IMG_5773Llao Rock

IMG_5777It took us a moment to notice the two deer ahead along the tree line.

IMG_5780We spotted the doe but she also had a pair of fawns nearby that bounded off.

IMG_5786This buck had zero concern with us as we passed by.

IMG_5793Phlox

IMG_5794Dwarf lupine

IMG_5795Devil’s Backbone with Mt. Scott behind.

We ended our hike at Devil’s Backbone, an exposed lava dike.
IMG_5796Wizard Island

IMG_5803Devil’s Backbone

IMG_5804Hillman Peak from Devil’s Backbone.

IMG_5805Garfield Peak across Crater Lake.

After a short break we headed back.
IMG_5818

IMG_5819

IMG_5822Saxifrage

IMG_5831The Watchman

IMG_5837If I stand perfectly still, they won’t see me.

IMG_5842Hillman Peak and Llao Rock from the viewpoint at The Watchman Trailhead.

IMG_5844Rock formations below Hillman Peak.

While the trailhead was packed with cars and people we only passed two others on our 3.7-mile hike to the Devil’s Backbone and back. We hopped back into our car and drove back toward Mazama Village stopping for one more short hike at Godfrey Glen.
IMG_5845Godfrey Glen Trailhead

There were a couple of cars here but nothing like what we’d encountered at The Watchman. The 1-mile loop here passes views of Godfrey Glen and Annie Creek Canyon. Hiking clockwise is the shortest route to the viewpoints but we went the opposite direction to leave ourselves a shorter hike after finishing with the viewpoints.
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IMG_5853The ADA accessible trail made for a nice easy walk.

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IMG_5857Super-heated volcanic gas fused ash creating these pinnacles.

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IMG_5869First viewpoint of Godfrey Glen above Munson Creek.

IMG_5871Godfrey Glen

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IMG_5887Another viewpoint.

IMG_5894We could hear Munson Creek but it wasn’t visible in the canyon below.

Near the last viewpoint we could see just a bit of some falls on Munson Creek.
IMG_5895

IMG_5896One waterfall.

IMG_5899Another waterfall in the canyon.

IMG_5909The end of the loop.

After finishing our hikes we returned to our cabin, showered, and changed then picked up a pizza from the Annie Creek Restaurant and took it back up to Rim Village. We hoped to visit the museum at the Visitor’s Center after eating some lunch but unfortunately it was closed. Instead we took the short paved path near the Center to the Sinnott Memorial Overlook.
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We’d seen the overlook from the Garfield Peak Trail that morning.
IMG_5474Sinnott Memorial Overlook on the rim to the left.

IMG_5913View from the overlook.

IMG_5917Mt. Scott and Garfield Peak from the overlook.

The overlook contained a number of informational signs including this one about the amount of water in the lake.
IMG_5920These numbers blew our minds.

After reading all the signs in the overlook we climbed back up to Rim Village and made our way through the masses of tourists. We quickly decided that the crowds weren’t for us and retreated to the car and headed back toward our cabin. We did stop once more, at Park Headquarters since that was where the Lady of the Woods hike would have taken place if not for the construction.
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IMG_5927Swallowtail and a painted lady on penstemon.

Our day, including the walk down to the overlook came to 9.7 miles and a little under 1500′ of elevation gain. The majority of the elevation gain came from the Garfield Peak hike (just over 1000′) and it was also our longest at 3.8-miles roundtrip. The hike around Hillman Peak was 3.7-miles but only 250′ of elevation gain while Godfrey Glen only gained 100′. The wildflower hike at Castle Crest was approximately a half mile with just 70′ of elevation gain and the short path to Sinnott Memorial Overlook was about a third of a mile roundtrip requiring around 150′ climb back up to the rim.

Garfield Peak and Sinnott Memorial
Hillman Peak
Godfrey Glen

It had been a great day of hiking and the pizza was surprisingly good. We did however come to the conclusion that we just aren’t good tourists. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Crater Lake Day 3

Categories
Hiking Year-end wrap up

2022 Flower Gallery

In 2018 we began a tradition of posting a collection of the variety of flowers that we encountered during the years hikes. It’s always a bit shocking to see just how many different varieties we actually saw over the course of the year. It appears that the total in 2022 was right around 400. We are still learning to identify the flowers and are a long way from being able to tell some of the different species apart. For instance, we encounter species in both the genus Castilleja as well as Penstemon regularly but are not typically knowledgeable enough to determine which one we are seeing. That doesn’t take away from our ability to enjoy the flowers though, but the large number of different flowers makes it difficult if not impossible to get them all in one post.

With that in mind here are some (but not all) of the different flowers we saw this past year, in no particular order. (Any IDs provided are best guesses and any corrections or additional IDs are greatly appreciated.)

The first wildflower we spotted was a little violet on February 5th at the Yakona Nature Preserve.
Violet

It was certainly not the last violet we’d encounter as they are one of the more common flowers we see and also one that struggle to identify beyond “violet”.
Pioneer violetsMay 14th – Chehalem Ridge Nature Park

VioletsJune 15th – Donomore Meadows

VioletsJune 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Siskiyou Gap

Marsh violetMarsh violet, June 25th – Goat Marsh Lake

IMG_5305July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5566Wedgeleaf? violet – July 1st – Youngs Valley, Siskiyou Wilderness

Goosefoot violetGoosefoot? violet, July 9th – Mt. Ireland

IMG_6593July 9th – Mt. Ireland

IMG_9410August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness.

The final flower to be photographed was a bleeding heart enjoying a late season bloom along the Eagle Creek Trail on November 19th.
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Bleeding heartHere is a more photogenic bleeding heart from May 21st on the Kings Mountain Trail.

We were lucky enough to see a handful of bucket list flowers during our trips to Southern Oregon and Northern California.
20220618_084641Snow plant, June 18th – Red Buttes Wilderness

20220702_090623California lady slippers, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220702_100604(1)Bolander’s lily, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

Scarlet fritillaryScarlet fritillary, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Henderson's fawn lilyHenderson’s fawn lily, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Here are some of the other’s that we encountered over the course of the year.
Pungent desert parsleyPungent desert parsley, April 2nd -Balfour Trail

Columbia desert parsleyColumbia desert parsley, April 2nd – Klickitat Trail

Woodland-starsWoodland stars, April 2nd – Balfour Trail

Pacific hound,s tonguePacific hound’s tongue, April 2nd – Balfour Trail

LupineLupine, April 2nd – Klickitat Trail

Big-leaf mapleBig leaf maple, April 2nd – Klickitat Trail

Slender phloxSlender phlox, April 2nd – Klickitat Trail

FringecupFringecup, April 23rd – Ankeny Wildlife Refuge

ButtercupsButtercups, April 23rd – Ankeny Wildlife Refuge

CheckermallowCheckermallow, April 23rd – Ankeny Wildlife Refuge

CheckermallowAnother checkermallow, April 23rd – Ankeny Wildlife Refuge

IrisIris, April 23rd – Ankeny Wildlife Refuge

PaintbrushA paintbrush, May 1st – Memaloose Hills

BalsamrootBalsamroot, May 1st – Memaloose Hills

Large-flower triteleiaLarge-flower triteleia, May 1st – Memaloose Hills

Naked broomrape and poison oakNaked broomrape, May 1st – Memaloose Hills

VetchVetch, May 1st – Moiser Plateau

Large-head cloverLarge-head clover, May 1st – Moiser Plateau

FiddleneckFiddleneck, May 1st – Moiser Plateau

Bachelor buttonBachelor button (non-native), May 1st – Moiser Plateau

Service berryService berry, May 7th – Orenco Woods

AvenAven, May 7th – Noble Woods

CamasCamas, May 7th – Miller Woods

GingerWild ginger, May 7th – Miller Woods

Striped coralrootStriped coralroot, May 7th – Miller Woods

Fairy slippersFairy slippers, May 7th – Miller Woods

PlectritisPlectritis, May 14th – Chehalem Ridge Nature Park

Fairy bells and bleeding heartFairy bells, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

Snow queenSnow queen, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

Red flowering currantRed flowering currant, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

TrilliumTrillium, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

MonkeyflowerA monkeyflower, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

Chocolate lilyChocolate lily, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

KittentailsKittentails, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

Glacier lilyGlacier lily, May 21st – Elk/Kings Mountain Traverse

Henderson's starsHenderson’s stars, May 25th – Mule Mountain

LarkspurLarkspur, May 25th – Mule Mountain

Possibly a popcorn flower (or a cryptantha)Not sure if this is a cryptantha or a popcorn flower, May 25th – Mule Mountain

Douglas' stitchwortDouglas’ stichwort, May 25th – Mule Mountain

Blue-eyed MaryA blue-eyed Mary, May 25th – Mule Mountain

California poppyCalifornia poppy, May 25th – Mule Mountain

ClarkiaA clarkia, May 25 – Mule Mountain

Hooker's Indian pinkHooker’s Indian pink, May 25th – Mule Mountain

StarflowerStar flower, May 25th – Mule Mountain

California ground coneCalifornia ground cone, May 25th – Mule Mountain

OokowOokow, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Blow wivesBlow wives, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Parry's hawkweed?Best guess is Parry’s hawkweed, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Clustered broomrapeClustered broomrape, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Narrowleaf onionNarrowleaf onion, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

California goldfieldCalifornia goldfield, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Possibly Fitch's tarweedPossibly Fitch’s tarweed, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Marigold pincushionplantMarigold pincushion plant, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

Butterfly and beetles on Arrowleaf buckwheatArrowleaf buckwheat, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

ClarkiaA clarkia, May 26th – Upper Table Rock

IrisIris, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

MIlkvetchMilkvetch, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Wildflowers on Anderson ButteUnknown on Anderson Butte, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Giant white wakerobbinGiant white wakerobbin, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

LarkspurA larkspur, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Rough eyelashweedRough eyelashweed, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

WallflowerWallflower, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

OnionA wild onion, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Jacob's ladderJacob’s ladder, May 27th – Jack-Ash Trail

Death camasDeath camas, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Common madiaCommon madia, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Common ViburnumCommon viburnum, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Hairy Indian paintbrush - Castilleja tenuisHairy Indian paintbrush, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

White campionWhite campion, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Pale flaxPale flax, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Purple oysterPurple oyster (non-native), May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

RoseRose, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

PeaPea, May 28th – Denman Wildlife Area

Kellog's monkeyflowerKellog’s monkeyflower, May 29th – Applegate Lake

Heart-leaf milkweedHeart-leaf milkweed, May 29th – Applegate Lake

Northern phloxNorthern phlox, May 29th – Applegate Lake

LupineWhite lupine, May 29th – Applegate Lake

Carrotleaf horkeliaCarrotleaf horkelia, May 30th – Roxy Ann Peak

Blue-eyed grassBlue-eyed grass, May 30th – Roxy Ann Peak

BaneberryBaneberry, June 4th – North Siouxon Trail

Star-flower solomonsealStar-flower solomonseal, June 4th – North Siouxon Trail

False lily-of-the valleyFalse lily-of-the valley, June 4th – North Siouxon Trail

CandyflowerCandyflower, June 4th – North Siouxon Trail

Scouler's corydalisScouler’s corydalis, June 4th – North Siouxon Trail

yellow glandweedYellow glandweed (non-native), June 11th – Julia Butler Hanson Wildlife Refuge

DaisyDaisy (non-native), June 11th – Julia Butler Hanson Wildlife Refuge

Flowering shrub at Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for Columbian White-tailed DeerUnknown shrub (non-native), June 11th – Julia Butler Hanson Wildlife Refuge

VetchA vetch or pea, June 13th – Susan Creek Falls Trail

ColumbineColumbine, June 13th – Susan Creek Falls Trail

SolomonsealSolomonseal, June 13th – North Umpqua Trail

ValerianValerian, June 13th – Lemolo Falls Trail

GooseberryGooseberry, June 14th – Illahee Rock

Blue-eyed MaryBlue-eyed Mary, June 14th – Illahee Rock

Fawn liliesFawn lilies, June 14th – Illahee Rock

PussytoesPussytoes, June 15th – Pacific Crest Trail near the Stateline Trailhead

BistortBistort, June 15th – Donomore Meadows

Cutleaf daisyCutleaf daisy, June 15th – Observation Peak

Lance-leaf Spring Beauty Claytonia lanceolataLance-leaf spring beauty, June 15th – Observation Peak

RockcressA rockcress, June 15th – Observation Peak

Alpine pennycressAlpine pennycress, June 15th – Observation Peak

Quill-leaf Lewisia Lewisia leeanaQuill-leaf lewisia, June 15th – Observation Peak

Marsh marigoldsMarsh marigold, June 15th – Pacific Crest Trail

AnemoneAnemone, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Siskiyou Gap

Jacob's ladderJacob’s ladder, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail

BudsBuds of an unknown flower, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Big Red Mountain

PaintbrushA paintbrush, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Big Red Mountain

Drummond's anemone along the PCTDrummond’s anemone, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Big Red Mountain

Ballhead waterleafBallhead waterleaf, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Big Red Mountain

Mariposa lilyA mariposa lily, June 16th – Pacific Crest Trail near Siskiyou Gap

20220617_072919Diamond? clarkia, June 17th – Bandersnatch Trail

20220617_073325A honeysuckle, June 17th – Bandersnatch Trail

IMG_4315A catchfly, June 17th – Bandersnatch Trail

IMG_4343Blue-head gilia, June 17th – Red Queen Trail

20220617_093917Deerbrush, June 17th – Mike Uthoff Trail

20220617_094806Grand collomia, June 17th – Mike Uthoff Trail

IMG_4460A phaceli, June 17th – Mike Uthoff Trail

IMG_4589Rhododendron, June 18th – Frog Pond Trail

20220618_073810Pretty Face, June 18th – Frog Pond Trail

20220625_115233Believe this is some sort of saxifrage, June 25th – Toutle Trail

20220625_112218Avalanche lily, June 25th – Toutle Trail

IMG_5079A penstemon, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5080A phlox, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5163Lewis flax, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5173A paintbrush, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5203Nuttall’s sandwort?, July 1st -Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5220Queen’s cup, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5265Beargrass, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5277Shooting star, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

Wolley-head cloverWolley-head clover, July 1st – Siskiyou ikyWilderness

IMG_5354A nightshade, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220701_151859Siskiyou lewisia, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5562Spotted coralroot, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5565This tiny flower was at the edge of the meadow in Young’s Valley, July 1st – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220702_065556Azalea, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5627Honeysuckle, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

Pacific ninebarkPacific ninebark, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

streambank bird's-foot trefoilStreambank bird’s-foot trefoil, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

White-vien wintergreenWhite-vein wintergreen, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220702_091852California pitcher-plant, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220702_094208Also California pitcher-plant, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

20220702_100311White-stemmed frasera, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5776Washington lily, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5809Phantom orchid, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5830Oregon sunshine, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_5905Pussypaws, July 2nd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6142Musk monkeyflower, July 3rd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6227Klamath arnica, July 3rd – Siskiyou Wilderness

White rushlilyWhite rushlily, July 3rd – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6418Spirea, July 4th – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6423Wild onion, July 4th – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6434A penstemon, July 4th – Siskiyou Wilderness

IMG_6483Phlox, July 9th – Mt. Ireland

IMG_6490Brown’s peony, July 9th – Mt. Ireland

IMG_6505Yet another paintbrush, July 9th – Mt. Ireland

IMG_6583Silverleaf phacelia with visitor, July 9th – Mt. Ireland

Venus penstemonVenus penstemon, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_062027Douglas dustymaidens, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

IMG_6640Bog orchid, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_064506Mountain lady slippers, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_073039Rosy pussytoes, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_073735Yellow columbine, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

heart-leaved bittercressHeart-leaved bittercress?, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_092803Elephants head, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220710_112424Cone flower, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

IMG_6858Tall mountain bluebells, July 10th – Catherine Creek Trail

20220711_062416Another wild onion, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_062408Scarlet gilia, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_062801Arrowleaf groundsel, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_064029Purple sticky geranium, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_093724Ragged robin, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_063742False? sunflower, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220711_144805White mariposa lily, July 11th – Horse Ranch Trail

20220712_075029Rosy paintbrush, July 12th – Buck Creek Trail

Lyall's RockcressLyall’s rockcress, July 12th – Buck Creek Trail

20220713_063711Pacific coralroot, July 13th – Rock Springs
Trail

20220713_065301Hyssop, July 13th – Rock Springs
Trail

IMG_7753Another penstemon, July 13th – Rock Springs
Trail

IMG_7689Thistle, July 13th – Rock Springs
Trail

IMG_7723Oregon checker-mallow, July 13th – Rock Springs
Trail

Moneses uniflora - one-flowered monesesThis was a new one for us one-flowered moneses, July 14th – Bear Creek Trail

20220714_101502Pinedrop, July 14th – Bear Creek Trail

IMG_7988Sagebrush mariposa lily, July 14th – Wallowa Homeland

20220714_130643Blanket flower, July 14th – Wallowa Homeland

20220714_131056Yarrow, July 14th – Wallowa Homeland

IMG_8524Scouler’s bluebells, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8192Inside-out flower, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

Tiger lilyTiger lily, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8497Bluebells of Scotland, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8252Subalpine mariposa lily, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8303Western sweetvetch, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8335Coiled lousewort, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8353Best guess is subapline fleabane, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

20220723_120051Orange agoseris, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

20220723_130806A larkspur, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8526Mock orange, July 23rd – Silverstar Mountain

IMG_8670Chicory (non-native), July 30th – E.E. Wilson Wildlife Area

IMG_8735Indian pipe, August 6th – Yasko Falls Trail

20220806_104434Leopard lily, August 6th – Hemlock Creek Trail

IMG_8874Mountain owl’s clover, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_8879Rainiera, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_8899Hedgenettle, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_8905Large boykina, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_8991Candy sticks, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_8987Monkshood, August 6th – Yellowjacket Loop Trail

IMG_9053Scarlet monkeyflower, August 7th – Fall Creek Falls Trail

IMG_9269White mountain heather, August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness

IMG_9307Mountain heather, August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness

IMG_9469Gentian, August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness

IMG_9504False hellebore, August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness

IMG_9409A saxifrage, August 13th – Mt. Adams Wilderness

IMG_9622Beardstongue, August 20th – Grizzley Peak

Shasta knotweedShasta knotweed, August 22nd – Mt. Shasta Wilderness

marsh grass-of-ParnassusMarsh grass-of-Parnassus, August 22nd – Mt. Shasta Wilderness

IMG_9731Western pasque flower, August 22nd – Mt. Shasta Wilderness

20220823_074107Bigelow’s sneezeweed, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

IMG_9972Western snakeroot, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

IMG_0020A buckwheat, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

Autumn dwarf gentian - Gentianella amarellaAutumn dwarf gentian, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

IMG_0216Saffron-flowered lupine, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

20220823_121615An aster or fleabane, August 23rd – Trinity Alps Wilderness

Hooded ladies tressesHooded ladies tresses, August 24th – Russian Wilderness

20220824_111610Can’t seem to identify this flower on the shore of Russian Lake, August 24th – Russian Wilderness

IMG_0528This one has me a bit stumped too, it looks like a wirelettuce or some sort of lewisa, August 24th – Russian Wilderness

IMG_0596Buckwheat, August 24th – Russian Wilderness

20220826_064654A monkeyflower (dwarf purple?), August 26th -Pacific Crest Trail near Carter Meadows Summit

20220826_080306Mountain coyote mint, August 26th – Pacific Crest Trail near Carter Meadows Summit

20220826_080417Sierra larkspur, August 26th – Pacific Crest Trail

IMG_0964Tasselflower brickellbush, August 26th – South Fork Lakes Trail

20220826_100503Monkeyflower, August 26th – South Fork Lakes Trail

IMG_1050Thistle, August 26th – South Fork Lakes Trail

20220826_103807California hairbells, August 26th – South Fork Lakes Trail

Common toadflaxCommon toadflax (non-native), September 10th – Spring Valley Greenway

IMG_1563Fireweed, September 17th – Union Peak Trail

IMG_1757Douglas spirea, September 18th – Sky Lakes Wilderness

Crater Lake Collomia?Best guess is Crater Lake collomia, September 19th – Dutton Creek Trail

20220925_092616Another mystery seen near the Cold Springs Trailhead, September 25th – Sky Lakes Wilderness

We have a few wildflower hikes planned in 2023. We are hoping to see at least one or two more that we haven’t before along with plenty of familiar faces. Happy Trails!

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Discovery Point and Lightning Spring – 09/19/2022

The longest planned hike of our Southern Oregon trip also promised to be the most scenic with nearly two and a half miles being along the rim of Crater Lake. After a couple of days of rain showers (and one night of thunderstorms) Monday was forecast to be partly sunny albeit with a 40% chance of showers. We were hoping for clear views of the lake with just enough clouds to make the sky interesting. We had picked up a 7-day pass on Saturday when we’d driven through Crater Lake National Park and now reentered the Park from Highway 62 to the south and parked near the Rim Village Gift Shop and Cafe.
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Our plan was to hike the Discovery Point and Lightning Spring loop described by Sullivan in his “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” (edition 4.2 hike #21). He describes hiking the route counter-clockwise hiking along the rim of the caldera to Discovery Point first but we opted instead for a clockwise loop for two reasons. First was that we wanted to be hiking the rim later in the day when the Sun would hopefully be directly overhead instead of across the lake to the east. The second reason was because Sullivan described the final section of the Dutton Creek Trail as “climbing more seriously…to your car”. Our thought was that it might be more enjoyable to be going down that stretch rather than up.

Before starting the loop we passed by the Gift Shop to check out the morning view of the lake.
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IMG_1885Mt. Scott (post) with a bit of a lenticular cloud.

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IMG_1903Raven making a landing atop a mountain hemlock.

IMG_1909The Watchman (post), Hillman Peak, and Llao Rock along the western side of the rim.

The view was amazing and aside from the ravens we were about the only people around this early. We got distracted enough by the views that we didn’t catch that the Dutton Creek Trail was located a bit downhill along the West Rim Road and we set off on the Rim Trail toward the Discovery Point Trailhead.
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In our defense the topo map on our GPS showed a connector trail further along the Rim Trail (that trail no longer exists) but we didn’t catch our mistake until we’d gone nearly a quarter mile. We turned around and hiked back to the entrance road to Rim Village and hiked downhill to the signed Dutton Creek Trail.
IMG_1913It was by far the most scenic mistake we’ve made while hiking.

IMG_1914Wizard Island and Llao Rock

IMG_1915Mount Scott

IMG_1916We joked that views had been so good maybe we should just end the hike now.

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A short distance down the Dutton Creek Trail we came face to face with a pair of bucks.
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It was quite the start to the hike and we wondered how anything during the remainder of the hike could top the beginning. We followed the Dutton Creek trail a total of 2.4 miles to the Pacific Crest Trail. The upper portion had indeed been fairly steep before leveling out quite a bit. The forest along the trail was very nice and the trail was in excellent shape.
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IMG_1944Dutton Creek was dry.

IMG_1954Blue sky ahead.

20220919_083501Not much left for flowers, this could be a Crater Lake collomia although it’s a little late in the season.

IMG_1964Castle Creek still had some water flowing.

IMG_1965We spotted several piles of hail, possibly from the severe thunderstorms that had been forecast for Saturday night?

IMG_1966Arriving at the PCT.

We turned right on the PCT and followed it for 4.4 fairly level miles to the Lightning Springs Trail. Sullivan described this section of trail as relatively dull but there was enough variety in the scenery to make it enjoyable if not remarkable.
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IMG_1969The campsite at the junction was closed due to hazard trees.

IMG_1970Recrossing Castle Creek.

IMG_1974The PCT appeared to be following an old road bed through the park.

IMG_1982Dropping down to Trapper Creek.

IMG_1984PCT crossing of Trapper Creek.

We saw one other deer, a doe in the trail, and otherwise it was a lot of chipmunks and squirrels along with numerous birds.
IMG_1985A red-breasted nuthatch that was toying with me as I tried to get a photo.

IMG_1988Canada jay (grey jay)
IMG_1990Blue sky to the north ahead.

IMG_1992Some blue sky south too with a glimpse of Union Peak (post).

IMG_1993Union Peak

IMG_2002Entering the 2006 Bybee Complex fire scar.

IMG_2005The Watchman. The lookout tower on top was in a cloud after having been clearly visible from rim earlier. We wondered what that might mean for our views when we finally made it back to the rim.

IMG_2008Chipmunk checking us out.

IMG_2012Coneflower remains

IMG_2017Another creek crossing.

IMG_2015Red crossbills at the creek crossing.

IMG_2025There were some pretty ominous looking clouds behind us but no showers yet.

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IMG_2027Several white crowned sparrows and at least one junco. We could also hear chickadee calls but I couldn’t find one in this capture.

IMG_2030Despite the ugly clouds behind us there was almost always blue sky ahead.

IMG_2032North Fork Castle Creek

IMG_2034Approaching the junction with the Lightning Springs Trail.

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We turned onto the Lightning Springs Trail and headed for the clouds above The Watchman.
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This trail climbed gradually along a ridge at the edge of a 2016 fire scar.
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IMG_2047Townsend’s solitaire

IMG_2048Union Peak had been swallowed by clouds.

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IMG_2052The Watchman with a cloud still hanging on.

IMG_2053Hawk

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IMG_2058The base of Union Peak with lots of blue sky around.

IMG_2066A brief stint in full sunlight.

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We were supposed to pass below a small waterfall after 2.4 miles along Lightning Creek but this late in the Summer it was dry.
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The trail continued to climb beyond the dry fall arriving at Lightning Springs after another 0.8 miles.
IMG_2072Union Peak nearly free of clouds.

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IMG_2081The Watchman still not free.

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IMG_2094Mountain bluebird

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We detoured a short distance down the trail to Lightning Springs Camp to check out the springs which were not dry.
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After visiting the springs we continued another 0.8 miles to West Rim Drive and crossed over to the Rim Trail.
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IMG_2106Full view of Union Peak.

IMG_2109And finally a full view of The Watchman.

IMG_2119Conditions were changing quickly and now there was blue sky above The Watchman.

IMG_2120West Rim Drive ahead with the lower portion of Mt. McLoughlin (post) in between the trees to the right.

IMG_2121Mt. McLoughlin

IMG_2124This squirrel put its cone down in case I had something better for it, but we don’t feed the wild animals per Park rules (and Leave No Trace Principles).

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We followed the Rim Trail for 2.4 miles back to Rim Village passing Discovery Point at the 1.1 mile mark. The views were spectacular resulting in many, many photos for which we don’t feel the least bit sorry about.
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IMG_2150Wizard Island’s cone

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IMG_2160Llao Rock

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IMG_2165Dock along Wizard Island

IMG_2174The Watchman and Hillman Peak

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IMG_2189_stitchGarfield Peak to the left with Union Peak to the far right.

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IMG_2221Phantom Ship

IMG_2224Mount Scott

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IMG_2249Clark’s nutcracker

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IMG_2282That blue though!

IMG_2290Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_2297Back to where we’d been that morning.

Including our wandering around Rim Village and going the wrong way to start our hike came to 14.4 miles with 2000′ of cumulative elevation gain.

I don’t think we could have asked for better conditions. It only sprinkled for one brief moment and the amount as well as type of clouds added to the beauty instead of hiding it. Add in temperatures that didn’t get much over 50 degrees if that and it was about a perfect day for a hike. We changed our shoes and socks then grabbed lunch in the cafe and did some shopping in the gift shop before heading back to Shady Cove. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Discovery Point and Lightning Spring

Categories
Crater Lake Area High Cascades Hiking Oregon Trip report

Union Peak – 09/17/2022

Our hiking focus this year has been primarily on the Southern Oregon and Northern California area. This was due in large part to that being the area where the majority of the remaining hikes were located for us to reach our goal of hiking Sullivan’s 500 featured hikes (post). Over the last couple of years we’ve canceled several trips down to this area due to wildfires (and associated smoke) as well as inclement weather. In fact we were starting to wonder if we might ever get the chance to finish the featured hikes from the area. This year things have been different, in fact we switched our August vacation from the Wallowas in Eastern Oregon to Northern California because the conditions, for once, were more favorable.

One of the trips we’d canceled in recent years was a four day stay in Union Creek. (Dangerous air quality due to wildfire smoke.) We had placed that trip back on our schedule for this year hoping for better luck. There were no fires in the immediate area but a number of fires were burning elsewhere in Oregon and Northern California which could still send enough smoke into the area to affect air quality. We kept a close eye on the weather and air quality forecasts and while the latter looked good the weather forecast was a little iffy. There was potential for showers including snow at higher elevations (7500′) as well as a slight chance of thunderstorms on a couple of days. The forecast was good enough for us to give it a try. Of the four hikes we had planned, two were not view dependent so we could rearrange the order depending on the forecast.

The forecast for Saturday was for partly cloudy skies with a chance of showers all day and a slight chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. We decided to attempt Union Peak despite the possible thunderstorms counting on summiting the 7709′ peak well before the arrival of potential thunderstorms. The most direct route from Salem to the Union Peak Trailhead is to take the West Rim Drive through Crater Lake National Park requiring the purchase of a $30.00, 7-day park pass. (Please note that both the Union Peak Trailhead and Union Peak itself are inside the park but do not require a park pass.) Since one of our other planned hikes started along West Rim Drive we would have needed a pass anyway so we entered the Park from the north entrance, purchased a pass, and then stopped at the Watchman Lookout Trailhead for a view of Crater Lake.
IMG_1518Wizard Island

IMG_1520The Watchman (post)

IMG_1522Hillman Peak and Llao Rock

We continued through the Park past the south entrance to Highway 62 where we turned right toward Medford for a mile to the Union Peak Trailhead.
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It was a little before 9am which gave us plenty of time to complete the hike based on the weather forecast. Both Sullivan and the trailhead signboard indicated that it was an 11 mile out-and-back.
IMG_1530The sign calls this the “steepest” hike in Southern Oregon. We wondered what criteria that was based on?

The hike begins on the Pacific Crest Trail following it south for 2.5 fairly level miles to a signed junction with the Union Peak Trail.
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IMG_1536There were a large number of big mushrooms along this section of trail as seen to the lower right.

IMG_1537One of the big shrooms.

IMG_1539A Stellar’s jay.

IMG_1540More of the big mushrooms.

IMG_1542Another Stellar’s jay.

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IMG_1549Nearing the trail junction.

We veered right onto the Union Peak Trail which began with a gradual climb following a ridge toward Union Peak.
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IMG_1557First glimpse of Union Peak through the trees.

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IMG_1561Gardner Peak behind Goose Egg (center) to the SE.

IMG_1563Fireweed

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IMG_1566It was cloudy but no showers so far and the clouds appeared to be well above the summit.

IMG_1570Townsend’s solitaire

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I was so focused on Union Peak I failed to notice the deer to the right below until it and a nearby fawn bounded off.

Approximately 1.7 miles from the junction the trail passed an colorful rock outcrop on the right.
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IMG_1585Mount Bailey in the distance to the right of the outcrop.

I missed more deer below the trail here, only noticing them when they started to run off.
IMG_1588The last doe keeping watch as the rest of the deer disappeared into the forest.

Beyond the colorful outcrop the trail dipped to a saddle then turned left at the base of Union Peak passing through a boulder field then onto a cinder hillside.
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IMG_1593Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_1595Western pasque flower seed-heads along the trail.

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IMG_1601Looking up at Union Peak and wondering how the trail got up there.

IMG_1603Nearing the cinder field.

The trail switchbacked in the cinders providing a nice view of Crater Lake’s Rim.
IMG_1606Mount Scott (post) was the only peak covered by clouds.

The trail climbed back through the rock field and then came the steep part.
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IMG_1611It’s always interesting to see the various rock that make up these volcanic peaks.

IMG_1614The Watchman and Llao Rock with Mt. Thielsen in between in the background.

IMG_1617That’s the trail on the right side of the photo.

IMG_1618Looking down at the trail below.

IMG_1619The trail was fairly easy to follow as it switchbacked up through the rocks. It was narrow in places which might be hard for those with a fear of heights.

The final pitch was more of a scramble than a hike though.
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IMG_1625While there were no people at the summit the brush had attracted a fairly large number of yellow jackets.

I had reached the summit before Heather so I wandered back and forth along the top since every time I tried to sit down the yellow jackets took an interest in me, and I don’t do yellow jackets.
IMG_1626Looking west toward the Rogue-Umpqua Divide.

IMG_1633The trail along the ridge below Union Peak.

IMG_1638Lost Creek Lake (post) in the valley to the SW.

IMG_1630Mount Bailey, Diamond Peak (post), and Mt. Thielsen behind the rim of Crater Lake.

IMG_1639The rim of Crater Lake.

The combination of clouds, smoke, and the position of the Sun impacted the view to the south which on a clear day would have included both Mt. McLoughlin (post) and Mt. Shasta.
IMG_1640Mt. McLoughlin is to the far right with some clouds over the top. Starting from the left is Goose Nest, Goose Egg (with Gardner Peak behind), Maude Mountain (with a faint Pelican Butte behind to the right), Lee, Devil’s, & Lucifur Peaks (Mt. Shasta is behind those three.) followed by Mt. McLoughlin.

Heather joined me at the summit. Her dislike of heights had kicked in on her way up so she was ready for a nice break but after having been stung two weeks earlier the presence of the yellow jackets did not help her relax. We did however stay long enough for the clouds to start breaking up a little.
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IMG_1656Mt. Bailey

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IMG_1654The Watchman and Hillman Peak directly behind with Mt. Thielsen further in the distance.

IMG_1653Llao Rock

IMG_1655Applegate Peak

When Heather was ready we headed down. She was a little nervous but managed fine and we soon found ourselves crossing the boulder field again.
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IMG_1671Looking back up from the rock field.

IMG_1672Mount Shasta arnica

By the time we were recrossing the ridge near the colorful outcrop a bit of blue sky had appeared behind Union Peak.
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IMG_1679Bleeding heart

That trend continued and we imagined that the two hikers we’d passed on the way down were enjoying even better views than we’d had.
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We had no complaints though. The smoke hadn’t been bad, we didn’t smell any at all until we were nearly back to the trailhead, and the clouds had kept the temperature down without raining at all. The Sun even made an appearance along the way.
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IMG_1690One of several mountain bluebirds we spotted.

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IMG_1700Bumblebees on a few remaining aster.

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IMG_1703Sunshine

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IMG_1705A sulphur butterfly.

IMG_1708Arriving back at the trailhead.

While Sullivan and the signboard listed this as an 11 mile hike our GPS came in at only 10 miles round trip. Either way there was 1600′ of elevation gain, much of which came in the final, steep, half mile.

From the trailhead we continued west on Highway 62 to the Edgewater Inn in Shady Cove, OR where we would be spending the next three nights. A quick check of the forecast for Sunday before bed revealed that “severe” thunderstorms were now forecast for Crater Lake overnight and Sunday called for clouds and a 50% chance of showers everywhere we’d planned on hiking. The good news was that our planned hike for Sunday was a visit to several lakes in the Sky Lakes Wilderness so showers wouldn’t really affect any views and getting some much needed precipitation was a lot more important than whether or not we would be getting wet on our hike. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Union Peak

Categories
Hiking Old Cascades Oregon Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trip report

Abbott Butte and Union Creek Falls – 10/17/2020

The third day of our long weekend in Union Creek was supposed to be a single hike to Abbott Butte and Elephant Pond in the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness. The day started as planned as we drove from Union Creek to the Abbott Butte Trailhead.
IMG_7633Union Peak and Mt. McLoughlin on our drive to the trailhead.

IMG_7635The peaks of Crater Lake National Park

IMG_7639Abbott Butte Trailhead

The Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail begins here at Huckleberry Gap near the southern end of the wilderness. Much of the area burned in a 2017 fire and there was a profuse amount of fireweed present which had gone to seed and left the ground looking as though it had received a dusting of snow.
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Just after taking the preceding photo which Heather had stepped to the side of the trail for, we resumed the hike and I immediately heard a ruckus behind me. I turned around to see Heather laying on the trail next to a log. She had gotten tangled some branches and fallen. While nothing was broken she twisted her foot awkwardly. After taking inventory she decided to continue on.

The trail spent the first mile and a half loosing approximately 300′ as it wound around Quartz Mountain before arriving at Windy Gap.
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IMG_7662Huckleberry bushes

IMG_7663A section of green trees along the trail.

IMG_7670Quartz Mountain

IMG_7675Passing below Quartz Mountain

IMG_7673Abbott Butte from the trail.

Along the way my camera decided to malfunction giving me a lens error when trying to use the zoom function. I eventually had to give up on using the zoom and am now looking for a replacement :(.

At Windy Gap the trail entered the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness.
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Prior to the fire the trail paralleled an old road bed on the hillside above it but that tread has been mostly lost so we stuck to the road bed.
IMG_7684On the roadbed

IMG_7685Pearly everlasting

The road arrived at Sandy Gap .4 miles from Windy Gap.
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The peaks of Crater Lake were visible from this gap.
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We continued on the road bed form this gap as well. Between the gaps we had at least been able to see where the trail had been on the hillside above but at Sandy Gap the tread had all but vanished.
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Approximately .7 miles from Sandy Gap we passed a trail sign for the Cougar Butte Trail. The sign was the only evidence that the trail had ever existed from what we could see.
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Another tenth of a mile brought us to what in theory was a 4-way junction below Abbott Butte.
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IMG_7702Sign indicating the non-existent trail is not suitable for horses.

We followed the old road up an open hillside switchbacking three times to the summit of Abbott Butte after a mile. Along the way we spotted a pair of deer near the tree line.
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There were also some spectacular views.
IMG_7727_stitchMt. McLoughlin and Mt. Shasta and a whole lot of other peaks that I should know.

IMG_7724Mt. Thielsen

IMG_7732Nearing the summit.

The Abbott Butte Lookout has seen better days. While the stand is still upright the lookout was not and the old sleeping quarters beneath looked near collapse as well.
IMG_7734The old lookout on Abbott Butte

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Regardless whoever the idiot was that used wood from the lookout for their precious campfire should be ashamed.

IMG_7739The old outhouse?

There view south was limited by trees but there was a good view to the east.
IMG_7745Mt. Thielsen and the peaks of Crater Lake.

After a nice break at the summit we headed back down the road. After .7 miles at the 3rd (lowest) switchback we turned right toward a post.
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This was the route to the continuation of the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail. Our plan was to follow it another 1.3 miles to Elephant Pond. In typical Rogue-Umpqua Divide Fashion the trail alternated between good tread and non-existent as it passed through meadows, green forest and burned forest.
IMG_7760Flagging marking the route.

IMG_7763A cairn along the tread ahead.

We passed another sign for the Cougar Butte Trail .4 miles from the switchback and at least this time there was a visible trail.
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Just beyond this junction the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail crossed a cinder field, turned east and headed steeply downhill.
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The trail eventually leveled out a bit passing through a series of overgrown meadows. For the first time since early in our first hike in this wilderness we nearly saw other people. We heard someone calling for Tyler but we never saw that person or Tyler.
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IMG_7783This meadow is where we heard the voice.

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IMG_7789Another late flower

Before we reached Elephants Pond we spotted the rock formation known as Elephants Head.
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IMG_7804Fireweed that hadn’t gone to seed.

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IMG_7823An owl’s clover

IMG_7820It’s hard to tell from the photo but this mushroom was big.

We declared victory at the pond as the trail was growing increasingly faint and entering another section of snags plus Heather’s foot was feeling a bit sore.

We returned the way we’d come only this time when we had reached Sandy Gap I decided to follow the old trail alignment above the road bed.
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I rejoined Heather on the road near the wilderness boundary and we continued back to the car. Just before reaching it, near where she had fallen earlier we spotted a very pretty butterfly.
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This was another enjoyable hike in the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness, even with the faint tread and our other mishaps. At 10.3 miles it was a good days worth of hiking and we drove back to Union Creek for another round of dinner and pie from Beckie’s Cafe.

During the return hike and drive we had been discussing possible scenarios for the next days hike given Heather’s tender foot. Our planned hike was an 8.2 mile out and back from the Union Creek Resort along Union Creek to Union Creek Falls. We came up with a few different options making use of the upper trailhead which was only a seven minute drive away. Unfortunately by the time we’d driven back to Union Creek and finished our late lunch/early dinner her foot had swollen and stiffened signaling an end to her hikes this weekend.

While we were waiting for our food I had been checking up on the condition of the Union Creek Trail which as of 2018 was overgrown with quite a bit of blowdown in between the resort and falls. Trip reports as recent as August 2020 confirmed this. The temperature in the morning was going to be just under 40 degrees and an overgrown trail meant wet foliage which wasn’t exactly an enticing combination so a new plan was formed. It was just after 4pm when we finished dinner so with Heather’s blessing I took my leave and drove to the upper trailhead.
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It was a little after 4:30pm when I set off and I gave myself a turn around time of 1 hour (or sooner if the trail conditions warranted). The trail began by descending 100′ in the first quarter a mile to the creek near Union Creek Falls, a small but scenic cascade.
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From the falls the trail continued downstream and was in relatively good shape with just a couple of small trees to step over. The creek was lively at first so I made frequent stops to check out several small cascades and chutes.
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Approximately 1.7 miles from the trailhead the trail conditions really started to deteriorate. I had been encountering a little more blowdown and now I was facing nearly chest high ferns.
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It was passable but I had to watch out for hidden obstacles so my pace slowed as had the creeks.
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I continued another quarter mile or so before calling it good, 45 minutes into my self-imposed 1 hour turn around time. The wilder show from the creek was over as it continues to calm the closer it gets to the resort. I double timed it back to the car stopping less frequently (an ouzel caught my attention at one point).
IMG_7953The broken zoom function didn’t let me get a good shot but the ouzel is on a rock in the middle of the creek.

I managed to get 3.9 miles in so almost half of the trail and I got to see a number of nice little cascades along the way. I was however a little damp from the vegetation so I was really glad I hadn’t tried to do the hike first thing in the morning.
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I drove back to the resort and found heather sitting by the creek reading. Before turning in for the evening we picked up a cinnamon roll for us and two pieces of pie from Beckie’s to take to my parents the next day. Heather is currently on the mend and will hopefully be back out there hiking and running shortly. Until next time, Happy Trails!

Flickr: Abbott Butte and Union Creek Falls

Categories
High Cascades Hiking Mt. Theilsen/Mt. Bailey Area Oregon Throwback Thursday Trip report

Throwback Thursday – Mt. Thielsen

**Note the 2024 Trail Fire burned over a portion of this hike.**

For this week’s throwback we’re going back to September 22, 2012 for our visit to Mt. Thielsen. When we had summited Mt. Bailey a little over a month before when we had been on the opposite side of Diamond Lake. These two mountains couldn’t look much different. The summit of Mt. Bailey was a walk up, albeit a steep one while the pointy summit of Mt. Thielsen is only accessible via a final 80′ vertical class 4 scramble. We weren’t planning on even attempting the summit, we just wanted to go as far as possible which would be a higher elevation than we had been at on Mt. Bailey.

We parked at the Mt. Thielsen Trailhead off of Highway 138 and set off toward the old volcano.

Mt. Thielsen Trailhead

The trail climbed through a forest filled with blowdown for 1.4 miles to a junction with the Spruce Ridge Trail.

Mt. Thielsen Trail

Junction with the Spurce Ridge Trail

Mt. Thielsen was hidden from view along this section but looking back across the highway we had a decent view of Mt. Bailey in the morning sunlight.

Mt. Bailey

We continued past the Spruce Ridge Trail gaining a view of Diamond Peak to the north.

Diamond Peak

Soon the spire of Mt. Thielsen came into view through the trees ahead.

Mt. Thielsen Trail

The trail then entered the Mt. Thielsen Wilderness and a section of forest that had been struck by massive blowdown.

Mt. Thielsen Wilderness sign

Mt. Thielsen Trail

Mt. Thielsen Trail

After passing through the blowdown the trail followed a ridge with increasingly better views to the Pacific Crest Trail 3.8 miles from the Trailhead.

Llao Rock and Hillman Peak

Llao Rock and Hillman Peak along the rim of Crater Lake

Diamond Lake and Mt. Bailey

Mt. Bailey and Diamond Lake

Howlock Mountain

Howlock Mountain

The Three Sisters

The Three Sisters

Diamond Peak and Sawtooth Mountain

Diamond Peak and Sawtooth Mountain

Mt. Thielsen

Mt. Thielsen

Diamond Lake and Mt. Bailey

Junction with the Pacific Crest Trail

The official trail ends at the PCT but a clear climbers trail continued on the other side and we followed that further up along the ridge. The first part of the path led along the ridge with views of west face of the mountain revealing it’s swirling volcanic rock.

Mt. Thielsen

Mt. Thielsen

The path then bent slightly SE away from the sheer drop of the north side of the ridge and up a very steep slope of increasingly slippery scree.

Mt. Thielsen Trail

Mt. Thielsen Trail

Mt. Thielsen Trail

To the south the entire rim of Crater Lake was visible including Mt. Scott.

Crater Lake's Rim

Mt. Scott

Braided trails crisscrossed up through the loose rock and every step seemed to come with a complimentary slide backward. Although the hike to Mt. Bailey had been steep it hadn’t been this steep nor slick and the drop offs along the way not nearly as daunting.

Mt. Bailey and Diamond Lake from the Mt. Thielsen Trail

Looking down from the Mt. Thielsen Trail

Mt. Thielsen

We were the first hikers up the trail that morning and at an elevation of a little over 8700′ I came to, what looked to me, to be an impassable wall of rock.

Where we stopped climbing

As I waited for Heather and Dominique I searched for signs of where to go from there. I was unsure of the correct route and the longer I stood in the same spot the more I took inventory of my surroundings. The view was quite impressive having now climbed high enough that Mt. McLoughlin was visible to the south of Crater Lake.

Mt. McLoughlin and Llao Rock

It wasn’t long before I started to feel just how high up we were and how steep the mountain was. At that point the nerves kicked in and butterflies filled my stomach. Apparently Heather and Dominique had begun feeling the same thing and when they were close enough to talk to we made a unanimous decision to turn back.

Shortly after starting back down a lone female hiker passed us going up. We stopped to watch her as she made her way to the point where I had turned around. We were curious to see how she would navigate the section. She didn’t miss a beat and was quickly above the spot and continuing on. We were only about a hundred yards down and I had to fight the urge not to go back and try again after she’d made it look so easy but I was apparently the only one fighting that urge so reason won the day and we continued our descent.

On the way down Dominique and I wound up too far to the north on the ridge and found ourselves near the edge of a vertical shaft

Patch of snow on Mt. Thielsen

Not liking how close we were to the edge we veered back to the south having to cross a very loos section of scree where Dominique slipped and scratched himself up pretty good. That was the only incident though and we made it back to the trailhead in relatively good shape.

At the time it was the most nerve wracking hike we’d done. Not making it as far up as we’d hoped was a bit of a disappointment but it was a good reminder that knowing when to turn around (and being willing to do so)is important. After all if you keep yourself safe there’s always next time. Happy Trails!

Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/9319235@N02/albums/72157632958248940