A dry forecast on my birthday provided a great excuse to head out on our November hike. We had an unusually loose plan for this outing which consisted of a stop at the Clay Creek Trail followed by a visit to the Fern Ridge Wildlife Area with a third possible stop at Meadowlark Prairie. While the 2 mile hike on the Clay Creek Trail was covered in Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” we had very little information on the Fern Ridge Wildlife Area. There was enough information available on line to know that it was open to hiking but it was unclear just how long of a hike was possible which is why we were keeping the option of Meadowlark Prairie on the table. The mostly paved 14 mile long Fern Ridge Path passes along Meadowlark Prairie on its way into Eugene, OR which would have provided some extra hiking time if we’d felt that we needed it.
We started our morning by driving to the BLM managed Clay Creek Recreation Site. The hike here is one of two hike Sullivan lists under his Siuslaw Ridge Trails entry (featured hike #65, 4th edition). We had done the other hike at nearby Whittaker Creek in 2016 (post) and while we considered that earlier hike enough to check off the featured hike from our list completed this second short hike would complete it. We parked at a small pullout on the south side of the Siuslaw River.
The trailhead sign for the Clay Creek Trail is ahead on the opposite side of the road.
It was a foggy morning, much like it had been on our earlier visit to the Wittaker Creek Recreation Area.
Siuslaw River
Clay Creek on the left emptying into the Siuslaw.
A short use trail led down to Clay Creek and a small gravel bench.
Stairs at the Clay Creek Recreation Area across the river.
After checking out the creek we walked the short distance up the road to the start of the trail. Sullivan described the hike as a 2 mile out and back but the map on the sign at the trailhead showed a lollipop loop. (Sullivan does mention the loop in his “Trail Updates” on oregonhiking.com.)
The existence of the loop at the top was a pleasant surprise. We crossed Clay Creek on a footbridge and began the 600′ climb to the ridge top.
The Clay Creek Trail climbing above Clay Creek.
We passed a bench at the second swtichback and continued climbing to a junction 0.6 miles from the parking area.
It’s hard to tell size here but the diameter of this tree was well over 5′.
The junction for the loop.
We turned right and continued to climb through the fog to the ridge top where the trail turned left.
One of several reroutes we encountered.
On the ridge top.
The trail passed several madrone trees before arriving at a bench at the high point of the ridge.
Madrone trunk and bark, always fascinating.
Lots of mushrooms pushing up through the forest floor.
Good sized trees near the high point.
No idea what you might see on a clear day.
The trail then began to descend to another bench at a switchback where the map indicated there was a view.
The viewpoint.
The trail continued switchbacking downhill while it wound back to the junction.
Just before reaching the junction I nearly went head over heals trying to avoid stepping on a rough skinned newt that I spotted at the last minute.
After having a one sided conversation with said newt we continued downhill to the car.
Nearing the footbridge.
The fog had lifted off the river at least.
While Sullivan indicates in his update that the loop makes this a 3.6 mile hike others still list it as 2 miles and both Heather and my GPS units logged 2 miles for the hike. Despite the fog not allowing for any view it was a pleasant little hike. Sullivan does also mention that the BLM is considering a $5 parking fee for the area in the future so be sure to check the BLM site before heading out.
We spent just over an hour on the Clay Creek Trail after driving over 2 hours to get there so a second stop was a must in order to not break our rule against spending more time driving than hiking. That’s where the Fern Ridge Wildlife Area came in. Located just west of Eugene the area consists of a dozen units broken up around Fern Ridge Reservoir. We had driven by the reservoir numerous times on the way to hike in the Coast Range and around Florence and seen signs for the wildlife area which had piqued at least my curiosity. After some online research it appeared that parking at the end of Royal Avenue between the Royal Amazon and Fisher Butte units was our best bet. The ODFW website mentions possible seasonal closures but finding detailed information on them wasn’t easy. I was eventually able to determine that these two units were open to the public from 10/16 thru 1/30 from until 2pm each day (presumably starting at sunrise). Even with the earlier hike we had arrived before 9:30am so we had plenty of time to explore. There is a $10 daily fee to park in the lots which is typical for ODFW wildlife areas (although it appeared most people simply parked along the shoulder of Royal Ave to avoid the fee).
Note that Royal Ave and the trail to the viewing platform are open year around with the other restrictions listed below.
We took a picture of this map to assist us with our route.
From the signboard we continued on the gated extension of Royal Avenue. It was a lot foggier than we had expected so the visibility wasn’t good and it was in the mid 30’s so it was chilly too.
We passed a grassy path leading to the viewing platform at the 0.4 mile mark.
We opted to pass on the platform for now hoping that visibility would improve as the morning wore on and we could stop by on our way back. We continued on the old road bed watching for birds and any other animals that might be about.
White crowned sparrow
Northern harrier on the hunt.
Wetlands in the Royal Amazon unit.
As we neared sub-impoundment one a large bird flew up from the reeds. It was our first encounter with an American bittern which was on my bucket list of animals we’d yet to see.
The bittern taking off.
Not the greatest photo but enough to identify it.
We turned right on a levy/old roadbed on the other side of the sub-impoundment and followed it for 0.7 miles to Gibson Island. The highlight of this stretch was a pair of bald eagles hanging out in a snag.
A hawk on a stump.
American coots
Gibson Island (with the eagles in the snag to the far left)
A short trail at the end of the levy led onto the island before petering out.
We turned around and headed back to Royal Avenue where we turned right and continued west just to see how far we could go.
A flock of geese above the coots.
There were a number of these small birds pecking around in the mud which, with some help from Molly in the comments, are American pipits.
Continuing west.
We used the stones to the right to cross the water here.
Great blue heron (with Highway 126 in the background).
Sandpiper in the roadway.
End of the line.
We imagined that much of this stretch would be under water by late Winter/early Spring but we had managed to make make it 1.7 miles from the trailhead before being turned back. We headed back past sub-impound one to the grassy path near the viewing platform where we left the road bed.
Seagull
Perhaps the same northern harrier.
The harrier taking a break.
The path to the platform.
Dunlins (thanks again to Molly)
The platform.
From the platform dikes led west and south. Since we had just come from the west we decided to go south along a body of water in Field 5.
The first signs that the fog/clouds might be breaking up.
Looking back at a little blue sky and a visible Gibson Island
We watched a group of shore birds as the alternate between foraging in the mud and performing areal acrobatics.
A little over three quarters of a mile from the viewing platform we arrived at a 4-way junction.
We turned left continuing around Field 5 for a third of a mile before arriving at a “T” junction just beyond a ditch.
Fisher Butte is the low hill ahead to the right.
According to the map we’d taken a picture of at the trailhead continuing straight at the junction would lead us to the area’s boundary near Fisher Butte while the right hand path led past Field 2 to Field 1 and then to a parking area off Highway 126. We turned left walking between the ditch and Field 3.
Gibson Island was now lit by direct sunlight.
In another third of a mile we faced another choice. Another dike headed to the right (east) between Field 3 and Field 4.
The dike running between Fields 3 & 4.
Looking back over the ditch.
We opted to turn right having misread the map for the first time. For some reason we ignored the difference between the symbols for the dikes and boundary lines (although some online sights showed paths along the boundary lines). At first everything was fine as the dike gave way to a cut mowed track wrapping around Field 4 along the boundary. There was a pond in Field 4 where several species of ducks were gathered as well as a great blue heron and a kingfisher.
California scrub jay
Northern shovelers and a bufflehead.
Buffleheads and two hooded merganser females.
Kingfisher
American robin
After wrapping around the pond for half a mile the track we were following became increasingly muddy with standing water in areas. We were very close to a gravel road so we hopped onto it for a tenth of a mile where we were able to get back onto a grassy track at a signpost.
The gravel road and another small portion of the wildlife area on the other side.
Noisy geese.
Back on the mowed track.
We went straight here looking for a trail on the right that would leave us back to the parking area. The clouds were really breaking up now and lots of little birds were out enjoying the warmer weather.
A sparrow
Spotted towhee and friend.
Finch
As of yet unidentified little bird.
We found what we were looking for, at least what we thought we were looking for and turned right on a clear trail that dropped down into a mowed field then mostly disappeared. We skirted along the edge of the field toward the parking area and as we neared the trailhead a clear trail emerged, or more like submerged. We followed the wet trail almost to the signboards near the trailhead where a ditch of standing water stood in our way. Our only choice (aside from backtracking) was to get wet so get wet (or wetter) we did. Luckily our hike was over and we had a change of socks and shoes waiting in the car. We finished hiking just before 1pm and managed to get a full 7 miles in while leaving parts of the area unexplored. It was nice to find another option in the valley that offered a potential destination when getting up into the mountains is possible. While we did hear occasional gun shots from hunters we only saw two duck hunters, but we also saw some families and bird watchers.
This path headed north from the trailhead, something to explore on our next visit.
It was a good birthday hike and we were done early enough for my parents to treat us to a great birthday dinner at The Manilla Fiesta, a restaurant I’d been dying to try. Happy Trails!
Mt. Hood from the trailhead.
The wagon chute.
The left at the 4-way junction.
Looking down the chute.
Sunlight starting to hit the SE side of Mt. Hood.
Ravens photo bombing a close up of the mountain.
A portion of the original Barlow Wagon Road.
Barlow Road (FR 3530)
Wilderness sign along the Barlow Butte Trail.
Getting steeper.
This was the worst of the blow down we had to navigate on this section.
Nearing the junction.
It was a little chilly with temps in the mid 30’s combined with a stiff breeze adding to the wind chill.
On the right of the far ridge is Bonney Butte (
Remains from the lookout.
Barlow Butte and the top of Mt. Hood.
Frog Lake Buttes (
Western larches
Mt. Jefferson behind some clouds.
Sisi Butte (double humps) and Bachelor Mountain (
Barlow Butte to the left of Mt. Hood.
Mt. Jefferson still behind some clouds.
Parts of Mt. Jefferson peaking through the clouds.
Tom Dick and Harry Mountain (with the rock fields near the top).
Small cairns in a meadow.
One of the aforementioned diamonds.
Approaching the high point.
Clouds were starting to pass over Lookout Mountain at this point.
Mt. Hood from the high point of Barlow Ridge.
Carin in the trees ahead.
Elk or deer tracks leading the way.
Another section of frost.
We took this as a blaze.
That blaze led to this large cairn.
Things were starting to get interesting here.
Stopped here to listen for pikas, no luck though.
This could be trail.
Still on the right track, note the folded trail sign on the tree at center.
The small meadow.
Officially off-trail now.
This looked like a place the trail would go.
A final look at Mt. Hood from Barlow Ridge.
This doesn’t look so bad.
One of several big trees we encountered.
Little orange mushrooms, how appropriate for Halloween.
Starting to encounter more debris.
If there had been a trail good luck finding it.
Heather coming down behind me.
Pretty decent game trail here.
This section was fun.
A bigger orange mushroom.
Uphill on this game trail.
Thickets of brush kept us from getting all the way over to the ridge we needed so we just kept going downhill knowing that we would eventually run into one of the forest roads at the bottom.
More steep fun.
Look Ma a road!
It doesn’t look that steep from down here.
Barlow Road.
Western larches above Barlow Road.
Grindstone Campground
Barlow Creek
Crossing Barlow Creek near Devil’s Half Acre Meadow.
Clouds on top of Mt. Hood towering over the trees.
Barlow Road at the campground.
Devil’s Half Acre Meadow.
Finally back to where we’d left the road in the morning.
Arriving back at the Barlow Pass Trailhead
The first other people (not counting the two drivers in the pickups) that we’d seen all day.
East Fork Salmon River
Park map at the viewpoint.
Willamette Valley
Sign post for the Newt Loop and mountain biking skills station.
As much blue sky as we were going to get on this day.
A massive old growth nursery log. The tree stood for hundreds of years and will spend hundreds more slowly decaying and providing nutrients for younger trees.
Nursery stump. While some old growth exists in the park it was also logged heavily which was the primary reason it was passed over for National Park status.
The Smith Creek Trail junction.
Does anyone know their salamanders? Not sure what type this one was.
The Nature Trail junction.
From the spot that we entered the campground you could just see a hiker sign at the far end of the paved campground road.
No wildlife to view today.
The Howard Creek Loop Trail.
Howard Creek
Sign for the trailhead.
Blue appeared to mean Buck Mountain Loop (the posts along the Howard Creek Loop had been red and later the Smith Creek Trail posts were yellow.)
The mix of tree trunks here caught our eye.
Approaching the trail junction.
The 2020 Beachie Creek Fire threatened the Park and did in fact burn over nearby Shellburg Falls (
Orange fence marking the closure of the Catamount Trail.
The first footbridge which spans Howard Creek. The creek was obscured by brush.
The second footbridge over a tributary not shown on the topo map.
This stream was a little easier to see.
A reminder of how close the Beachie Creek Fire was.
The 4-way junction.
Approaching the Smith Creek Trail junction.
Ramps in the background at the skills station.
The Catamount Trail arriving on the left.
The 214 Trail from the Newt Loop.
A few larches along Road 2730
Fret Creek Trail across from the pullout.
Entering the Badger Creek Wilderness.
Starting to climb again.
Sign for Oval Lake.
June 28, 2014
A bit of snow left from the recent snowfall.
The Divide Trail.
Some snow near a switchback along the trail.
Mt. Adams starting to peak over a ridge to the north.
Mt. Adams with some larch trees in the foreground.
Lookout Mountain from the Divide Trail (The bare peak in between the two bare snags. Just to the right of the left snag.)
Side trail to Palisade Point.
Broken Top, The Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack (just the very top), Mt. Jefferson, and Olallie Butte (
Mt. Jefferson with the tip of Three Fingered Jack to the left and Olallie Butte to the right.
Mt. Hood peaking up over the rocks.
Panoramic view with Badger Creeks valley below.
Rocks below Palisade Point.
We ran into this jumble of downed trees shortly after leaving Palisade Point but fortunately it was the worst of the obstacles.
Flag Point Lookout from the trail.
A small meadow that was full of flowers a couple of months ago.
A stand of larches.
A better view of Mt. Hood.
Zoomed in.
Looking back through larches at a Badger Creek Wilderness sign near Road 200.
Looking back at the Divide Trail.
Road 200
Chipmunk
Nearing the lookout.
Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams to the north.
Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams
Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and Olallie Butte
View east to the hills above the Columbia River.
Passing the Fret Creek Trail.
We did need to gain almost 800′ of elevation to reach Lookout Mountain which at times was a fairly steep climb.
Another viewpoint along the way where Badger Lake was visible.
Badger Lake
The final pitch to the summit, there is at least one hiker visible up top.
Looking back to Flag Point.
Looking NE toward The Dalles and the Columbia River.
Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. Adams
View south past Badger Lake to Mt. Jefferson.
Flag Point from the Helispot.
And of course Mt. Hood again.
Fret Creek from the road near the trailhead.
Black Crater (
Black Crater and North Sister
Black Crater, the top of Broken Top, some of the Sisters, and part of Mt. Washington.
Hayrick and Hoodoo
Between Mt. Washington and Hayrick Butte is Scott Mountain (
Cache Mountain is the high point furthest to the left.
Broken Top and the Three Sisters
Mt. Washington
The Three Sisters. The summit of South Sister is between North and Middle Sister behind 9321′ 
Black Butte (
A different angle from 2012.
One white rump with a black tail amid the ferns near the center of the photo (good luck).
The only paintbrush we would see all day.
The top of Mt. Washington is just visible on the other side of Square Lake.
Mt. Washington’s spire again.
A rainbow was trying to form to the west.
Lodgepole pine seeds require fire in order to be released from their tight cones.
Our first sighting of Long Lake (zoomed in).
Ducks taking off from Long Lake.
This is one of the areas that we could see getting pretty muddy/wet.
Rainbow
The Round Lake Trail just on the other side of the downed tree.
Long Lake is back down that way somewhere.
Back on the Round Lake Trail.
Black Butte shedding the morning clouds.
The top of Three Fingered Jack behind some thin clouds.
Green Ridge (
A better look at Three Fingered Jack.
First glimpse of Round Lake.
Starting to look kind of grey.
A mountain bluebird adding a splash of blue to the green backdrop.
Clouds over Square Lake.
A few scarlet gilia blossoms.
The unnamed lake is about halfway up the far hillside.
Black Butte and Long Lake from the trail.
Heading toward Three Fingered Jack we got back under blue skies.
Square Lake still under a clouds,
The unnamed lake that drew our attention.
Similar view from 2012.
The trail at the gap. It was grey and cloudy to the west.
Still at the gap, it was blue skies to the east.
There is Three Fingered Jack.
A good look at Green Ridge.
A lupine that was late to the party.
Booth Lake
The trail cut on the far hillside.
Black Butte, Long Lake, and part of Square Lake.
Square Lake along with Broken Top and the Three Sisters (Mt. Washington was hiding in the clouds still).
Part of the rock ledge.
Three Fingered Jack had once again disappeared.
Where’s Heather.
View climbing away from Square Lake.
Similar view in 2012.
2012
Finally clear!
Hayrick Butte and Hoodo as we neared the trailhead.
Sulphur Springs
Soap Creek near Sulphur Springs.
Sulphur Springs Road from the pullout.
Sulphur Springs Road Trailhead.
We stayed right at this junction with Road 761.
The Rocky Road Trail.
A good sized cedar along the trail.
Road 760 ahead.
Interesting patchwork of trees. We would have liked to have been able to see when each section had been harvested and replanted.
We couldn’t see much to the east due to the Sun’s position.
Mary’s Peak (
Road 7040 on the left.
Pointer for McCulloch Peak at the junction. We had come up from Road 700 on the right.
The rest of the 4-way junction. After visiting the peak we would head downhill following the pointer for Oak Creek.
Trail to the spur road.
Fading pearly everlasting.
We stayed left here which was the shorter route.
Madrone
Tree island at the junction with Road 680.
Nearing the trail junction.
Poison oak climbing trees.
Signs for the Uproute and Extendo Trails.
Road 680
A few larger trees in the forest.
A sea of green grass.
Horsetails
The 4-way junction.
Summit of Dimple Hill.
Mary’s Peak
Approaching the junction on Road 650.
Junco
Mt. Hood
Mt. Jefferson
The Three Sisters
The High Horse Trail and another trail heading uphill at the 4-way junction.
What we assume is the Bombs Away Trail on the left and the High Horse Trail on the right at the 4-way junction.
Left or right? More often than not both ended up in the same spot.
Road 640
Junction with the Alpha Trail.
Looking back at the Alpha Trail from Road 810.
Road 800 below Road 810.
Baker Creek Trail ahead on the right.
Mt. Bachelor
The Three Sisters and Broken Top
Mt. Bachelor via the Nikon.
Heather watching the show taken with the Canon.
The Three Sisters with the Canon.
Canon
Nikon
Mt. Bachelor (
Canon shortly before the Sun became visible.
Canon shortly before the Sun became visible.
The Three Sister just before sunrise with the Nikon.
The Three Sister just before sunrise with Heather’s phone.
Canon moments before sunrise. A line of wildfire smoke on the horizon gave it a red tint.
Canon
Canon catching the Sun.
Canon
The Three Sisters and Broken Top (Nikon)
South Sister (
Middle and North Sister (Nikon)
Broken Top (
Aline glow hitting the mountains. (Canon)
South Sister (Canon)
Middle and North Sister (Canon)
Broken Top (Canon)
Mt. Bachelor (Canon)
Mt. Scott to the left and Mt. Thielsen to the right.
Grouse
Chipmunk
Mt. Bachelor as we arrived back at the snow-park.
Sunlight on Haystack Butte in Washington.
Part of Moody Rapids.
Gum weed
The last petals on a blanket flower.
We saw several of these large beetles, all prepared to defend themselves.
Snow buckwheat
Chicory
Seagull
Mergansers
Sparrow
One blurry otter head and another partial otter on the right.
A bunch of tree branches, oh and an otter in the water.
At times there were multiple trails to choose from.
Rattlesnake Bend is up ahead but we stopped here for a bit to watch a heron getting breakfast.
A sparrow, possibly a Savannah sparrow.
The trail climbed higher on the hillside for a bit to avoid some thick vegetation below.
Rattlesnake Bend
Railroad tracks above the trail.
Looking back from Rattlesnake Bend near where we turned around.
Rattlesnake Rapids
Killdeer
An older channel?
Had to go back up to avoid the vegetation here.
Ground squirrel
Heron flying up river.
Old rock wall along the way.
Typical use trail.
Merganser
Aster
Osprey showing up the fishermen.
Finch
More birds near the spring.
Little yellow birds, maybe warblers?
One of the yellow birds on a blackberry plant.
Moody Rapids
Haystack Butte
A line of mergansers.
This squirrel was making an impressive amount of noise with its mouth full.
Passing around one of the lake’s arms.
One of several bridges over creeks.
Mergansers
The view next to the bench.
The view from the bench.
Going around another arm.
A checker-mallow
Aster
Forest as we neared the campground again.
Arriving back at the ramp.
The first part of the trail passed through a stand of trees.
View to the west along the South Fork Walla Walla River canyon.
Loved the top of this tree.
Another view, there was just a hint of smoke in the air giving the hillsides a blue tint which is where the name “Blue Mountains” comes from. Apparently smoke has been a common occurrence here for a long time.
There was a lot more Fall color along this trail.
Paintbrush
Cone flower
Aster amid some thimbleberry leaves.
Vine maple
Looking down toward the Sheep Creek.
Finally found the river.
There was a 6 to 8′ waterfall along Sheep Creek but no way to get a clear view of it through the thick vegetation on a steep hillside.
Two types of clover.
Footbridge over the South Fork Walla Walla River.
Reser Creek on the left joining the South Fork Walla Walla River just upstream from the bridge.
There were just enough exposed rocks for me to work my way downstream from the bridge to Sheep Creek.
A couple of the larch trees were just starting to turn color for the fall.
A scarlet gilia blossom waiting to fall off.
A final view back over the canyon with the crooked tree.
The guard station.
The only “parking spot” open near the actual trailhead.
There was a lot of cone flower along the trail.
It had rained the night before but most of the moisture had already dried up or evaporated.
There were just a few flowers hanging on.
There was also a nice variety of mushrooms.
Paintbrush
One of the small streams.
Self-heal
There weren’t many views along the trail but this one was nice.
Pearly everlasting
Ghost pipe 
This was one of the smallest frogs we’ve seen. When I first saw it jump I mistook it for a grasshopper.
South Fork Wenaha River
One of two snakes we came across, both the harmless types.
South Fork Wenaha River
Fall colors along the trail.
Milk Creek with the Wenaha River Trail continuing on the far side.
Milk Creek joining the South Fork Wenaha River.
Elderberry near Milk Creek
Snowberry
Might be an aven?
Coral fungus
Aster
A lone arnica still blooming.
wanderingyuncks 