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Bend/Redmond Blue Mountains - North Blue Mountains - South Central Oregon Fort Rock Hells Canyon Hiking John Day Klamath Falls Lakeview Newberry Crater Ochoco Mountains SE Oregon Steens Mountain Wallowas

Eastern Oregon

Back in 2016 we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks post. In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post). Southern Oregon & Northern California was completed in 2023 leaving us with Eastern Oregon.

In 2023 we pivoted from the 3rd edition of Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” to his renamed 2022 1st edition “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” book. This was to avoid needing to make the tedious drive on horrible roads to Dug Bar in Hells Canyon which had been replaced as a featured hike in the newer edition.

The criteria for checking a hike off our list is to hike a portion of Sullivan’s described hike or, at least visit the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 67 of the hikes we completed the books described route. For the other 33 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing every option of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had additional options that we did not do.

Of the five regions Sullivan breaks his guidebooks into, the Eastern Oregon region is the largest and most diverse. The area covered in this book includes hikes in Oregon east of the Deschutes River in Central Oregon and from Klamath Falls (western most hike) east to the Idaho border. There is however one hike in Washington west of the Deschutes across the Columbia River from The Dalles, OR.  It also includes one short option in Idaho (eastern most), one featured hike in California (southern most) making it his only book with hikes in more than two different States. The northern most hike is not the one in Washington. That  honor belongs to the Wenaha River near Troy in NE Oregon.

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The hikes involved several wilderness areas: Oregon Badlands, Mill Creek, Spring Basin, Strawberry Mountain, North Fork John Day, North Fork Umatilla, Wenaha-TucannonEagle Cap, Hells Canyon, Monument Rock, and Steens Mountain. Missing from this list are the Black Canyon (post) and Gearhart Mountain (post) wilderness areas which had featured hikes in earlier versions of Sullivan’s book that we’d completed, but were removed in the 2022 edition due to wildfire damage.

In addition to the 11 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments, the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument in Oregon and the Lava Beds National Monument in California, and one National Volcanic Monument, the Newberry National Volcanic Monument.

Following is a list of the 100 featured hikes and the dates we visited.

#1 Cottonwood Canyon – Hiked 5/27/2017
John Day River

#2 Columbia Hills – Hiked 4/4/2015 & 4/17/2021
Eightmile Creek Trail

#3 Lower Deschutes River – Hiked 6/9/2018
Deschutes River

#4 Macks Canyon – Hiked 5/26/2018
Deschutes River

#5 Criterion Tract – Hiked 05/28/2023
Deschutes River

#6 Trout Creek – Hiked 10/12/2013
Deschutes River

#7 Willow Creek at Madras – Hiked 5/27/2024
Willow Creek Trail

#8 Cove Palisades – Hiked 6/16/2018
The Island

#9 Gray Butte – Hiked 6/13/2015
Smith Rock State Park from the summit above Burma Road

#10 Oregon Badlands – Hiked 5/15/2016 & 12/24/2016
Flatiron Rock Trail

#11 Pine Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2012
Summit of Pine Mountain

#12 Paulina Falls – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Falls

#13 Paulina Lake – Hiked 8/9/2011 & 9/16/2017
Paulina Peak from the hot springs

#14 Obsidian Flow – Hiked 8/9/2011
East Lake and the Big Obsidian Flow

#15 Crooked River Wetlands – Hiked 5/29/2024
Crooked River Wetlands Complex

#16 Chimney Rock – Hiked 9/22/2017
Chimney Rock

#17 Steins Pillar – Hiked 5/8/2013
Steins Pillar

#18 Juniper Hill – Visited* 5/27/2024
Painted hills at Juniper Hills Preserve

#19 Mill Creek – Hiked 7/31/2012
Twin Pillars

#20 Lookout Mountain – Hiked 6/12/2014
Sagebrush meadows on Lookout Mountain

#21 Walton Lake – Hiked 6/17/2017 & 6/18/2021
Walton Lake

#22 Spring Basin – Hiked 4/22/2017
Biscuitroot and hedghog cactus in the Spring Basin Wilderness

#23 John Day Fossil Beds – Hiked 4/30/2016, 4/22/2017 & 9/17/2017
Painted HIllsPainted Hills Unit

Clarno Unit - John Day Fossil BedsClarno Unit

View from the Blue Basin Overlook TrailBlue Basin Unit

#24 Sutton Mountain – Hiked 4/30/2016
Sutton Mountain Rim

#25 Spanish Peak – Hiked 7/19/2021 & 7/20/2021
Spanish Peak from the Ochoco Mountain Trail

#26 Madison Butte – Hiked 5/28/2024
Madison Butte from the Madison Butte Trail

#27 Wildcat Basin – Hiked 7/24/2018
Volcanic ash along the Pine Creek Traii

#28 High Lake – Hiked 7/26/2018
High Lake

#29 Strawberry Lake – Hiked 7/25/2018
Strawberry Mountain

#30 Malheur River – Hiked 6/17/2021
Malheur River Trail

#31 Canyon Mountain – Hiked 7/22/2021
Canyon Mountain Trail

#32 Monument Rock – Hiked 7/21/2021
Cairn on Monument Rock

#33 Bates and Sumpter – Hiked 9/17/2017
Sumpter Valley Dredge

#34 Olive Lake – Hiked 9/18/2017
Olive Lake

#35 Granite Creek – Hiked 9/21/2017
Granite Creek Trail

#36 North Fork John Day River – Hiked 9/19/2017
North Fork John Day River Trail

#37 Mount Ireland – Hiked 7/9/2022
Mountain goat below the Mt. Ireland Lookout

#38 Baldy Lake – Hiked 9/20/2017
Baldy Lake

#39 Crawfish Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
The Lakes Lookout from Crawfish Lake

#40 Anothony Lake – Hiked 8/16/2018
Hoffer Lake number one

#41 Elkhorn Crest – Hiked 8/12/2018, 8/13/2018, 8/14/2018, 8/15/2018 & 08/16/2018
Rock Creek Lake

#42 Twin Lakes – Hiked 8/13/2018
Mountain goat passing by camp

#43 North Fork Umatilla River – Hiked 6/14/2021
North Fork Umatilla River

#44 Jubilee Lake – Hiked 9/12/2021
Jubilee Lake

#45 Wenaha River – Hiked 5/25/2019
Wenaha River Trail

#46 Zumwalt Prairie – Hiked 5/26/2019
Wallowa Mountains from the Horned Lark Trail

#47 Buckhorn Lookout – Hiked 6/15/2023
Prickly pear cactus

#48 Eureka Bar – Hiked 6/14/2023
Snake River in the distance from the Imnaha Trail

#49 Hat Point – Hiked 7/21/2024
Hat Point Lookout

#50 Freezeout Saddle – Hiked 5/24/2019
Looking into Hells Canyon from the Summit Ridge Trail

#51 Hells Canyon Dam – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail along the Snake River

#52 Hells Canyon Reservoir – Hiked 6/16/2023
Trail 1890

#53 Imnaha Falls – Hiked 6/12/2023
View from the Imnaha River Trail

#54 Bonny Lakes – Hiked 7/24/2024
Lower Bonny Lake

#55 McCully Basin – Hiked 7/23/2024
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#56 Mount Howard – Hiked 7/26/2024
Royal Purple Overlook

#57 Aneroid Lake – Hiked 8/22/2024
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#58 Wallowa Lake – Hiked 5/23/2019
B.C. Creek FallsB.C. Falls

#59 Ice Lake – Hiked 7/31/2016
Ice Lake

#60 Horseshoe Lake – Hiked 8/3/2016 & 8/04/2016
Horseshoe Lake

#61 Hurricane Creek – Hiked 7/22/2024
Slick Rock Falls

#62 Eagle Cap – Hiked 8/3/2016
Eagle Cap from Mirror Lake

#63 Minam Lake – Hiked 7/25/2024
Minam Lake

#64 Maxwell Lake – Hiked 8/21/2024
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#65 Chimney Lake – Hiked 8/20/2024
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#66 Wallowa Homeland – Hiked 7/14/2022
Gazebo on Tick Hill along the Wallowa Homeland Trail

#67 Bear Creek – Hiked 7/14/2022
Bear Creek

#68 Rock Springs – Hiked 7/11/2022
View from the Rock Springs Trail

#69 Moss Springs – Hiked 7/13/2022
Red's Horse Ranch

#70 Catherine Creek Meadows – Hiked 7/10/2022
Catherine Creek Meadows

#71 Burger Pass – Hiked 7/12/2022
Burger Butte from the Elk Creek Trail

#72 Tombstone Lake – Hiked 8/16/2023 & 8/17/2023
Tombstone Lake

#73 Eagle Lake – Hiked 8/13/2023
Eagle Lake

#74 Bear Lake – Hiked 8/14/2023
Bear Lake

#75 Hidden Lake – Hiked 9/9/2024
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#76 Summit Point Lookout – Hiked 8/18/2024
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#77 Pine Lakes – Hiked 8/19/2024
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#78 Fort Rock – Hiked 6/14/2014 & 5/28/2017
Fort Rock

#79 Fort Rock Valley – Hiked 5/28/2017
Crack in the Ground

#80 Hager Mountain – Hiked 7/30/2013 & 6/14/2014
Hager Mountain Trail

#81 Summer Lake – Hiked 7/24/2020
White faced ibis

#82 Winter Ridge – Hiked 7/19/2020
Summer Lake from Winter Ridge

#83 OC&E Railroad – Hiked 10/5/2018
Devil's Garden

#84 Klamath Falls – Hiked 10/20/2018
Klamath Wingwatcher Nature Trail

#85 Modoc Lava Beds – Hiked 10/6/2018
Mount Dome from Schonchin Butte Trail

#86 DeGarmo Canyon – Hiked 7/22/2020
Waterfall on DeGarmo Creek

#87 Hart Mountain Hot Springs – Hiked 7/21/2020
DeGarmo Notch

#88 Petroglyph Lake – Hiked 7/22/2020
Petroglyphs around Petroglyph Lake

#89 Steens Summit – Hiked 8/18/2021
Wildhorse Lake Trail

#90 Little Blitzen River – Hiked 8/19/2021
Little Blitzen Trail

#91 Big Indian Gorge – Hiked 8/17/2021
Big Indian Gorge

#92 Threemile Canyon – Hiked 9/3/2023
Sunflowers in Threemile Canyon

#93 Pike Creek – Hiked 6/14/2018
Steens Mountain from the Pike Creek Trail

#94 Big Sand Gap – Hiked 6/14/2018
Big Sand Gap

#95 Borax Hot Springs – Hiked 6/14/2018
Borax Lake

#96 Pueblo Mountains – Hiked 8/20/2021
Oregon Desert Trail in the Pueblo Mountains

#97 Leslie Gulch – Hiked 6/11/2018
Timber Gulch

#98 Coffeepot Crater – Hiked 6/11/2018
Coffee Pot Crater

#99 Chalk Basin – Hiked 6/13/2018
Chalk Basin

#100 Three Forks – Hiked 6/12/2018
Warm spring pools

*The Juniper Hills Preserve is owned by the Nature Conservancy and had been closed to public entry in 2023, so we were unable to hike the trails. We parked and walked to the gates to take photos. If they ever reopen it to the public we will go back.

Completing our featured hike goals provided a sense of relief. While we thoroughly enjoyed all of the hikes, and the Wallowa Mountains became our favorite destination in Oregon, we had begun to put pressure on ourselves to finish. That pressure had begun following the September 2020 wildfires that ravaged parts of the Central Cascades and left many trails closed for years. We had just finished the featured hikes in that area earlier that year and realized how close we’d come to having to put our goal on hold. In the grand scheme of things reaching 500 featured hikes is irrelevant but having worked on it for several years it was something we didn’t want to abandon. We will gig deeper into that in a later post covering finishing the 500, but it’s nice to have the urgency to get to specific places removed.

Setting the goal did provide us with an excuse to visit parts of Oregon that we’d never seen before. While we were checking off the 100 featured hikes we stopped at over three dozen additional spots including eight previously featured hikes. There are still numerous trails left for us to explore so we will almost certainly be heading back to Eastern Oregon from time to time to see new sights and possibly revisit some familiar ones. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Aneroid Lake – 08/22/2024

For the final hike of our trip we’d chosen Aneroid Lake. This would be our 99th featured hike out of the 100 in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” 1st edition (2022) and our 499th out of the 500 featured hikes that we’ve been working on for a number of years now (post). Sullivan gives two options for this hike, a moderate hike gaining 1150′ of elevation in just under 4-miles (round trip) to a waterfall on the East Fork Wallowa River, or the difficult hike to Aneroid Lake gaining nearly 3000′ of elevation in what he lists as a 12-mile round trip. Other reports put the hike to Aneroid Lake at just over 13-miles RT but agree on the elevation gain. Our plan for the day was to once again split up and go our own paces with Heather’s goal being the waterfall and mine being the lake. Heather would return to the trailhead and then head to the Trailhead Coffee stand and do a little shopping in the Wallowa Lake community while she waited for me to get back. We figured that the hike to Aneroid Lake would take me anywhere from 6 to 8 hours depending on how long the hike really was and how well my legs were working after four days of serious hiking.

We began at the Wallow Lake Trailhead which we’d started two other previous hikes from, a five-day backpacking trip (post) and a short hike to B.C. Creek Falls (post). For both of those hikes we’d taken the West Fork Wallowa Trail. Today we would be using the East Fork Wallowa Trail.
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IMG_3150Map at the trailhead signboard and wilderness permit station.

IMG_3155Trail sign at the split of the East and West Fork trails.

The trail began by following a rocky roadbed uphill.
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IMG_3163Trail sign for the East Fork Wallowa Trail at a junction with a gravel road.

The roadbed soon became a proper trail as it continued uphill.
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IMG_3172Ghost pipe

IMG_3176Entering into the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest.

A little over three quarters of a mile from the trailhead I came to a junction with a connector trail to the West Fork Wallowa Trail used as a loop for horse tours.
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Beyond the junction the trail passed through some rocky hillsides with views across Wallowa Lake.
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IMG_3184Chief Joseph Mountain and Wallowa Lake

IMG_3189I never saw any but I heard a number of pikas in the rock fields.

IMG_3196Switchback

IMG_3197Rock clematis seed heads.

When Heather came through the rock fields she did spot a pika.
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IMG_3200Bridge at the upper end of the access road that I had passed earlier.

IMG_3202The lower section of the waterfall from the bridge.

After checking out the lower portion of the falls from access road bridge I returned to the trail and continued up to a switchback with a view of the upper section of the falls.
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IMG_3207The access road bridge from the switchback.

From the switchback the trail continued its steady climb arriving at a damaged bridge after a little over 2 miles.
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IMG_3210East Fork Wallowa River Forebay

IMG_3213Interpretive sign at the forebay.

IMG_3216Aster

IMG_3219The trail entering the Eagle Cap Wilderness.

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Shortly after entering the wilderness the trail passed through some small meadows with fireweed and various berries.
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IMG_3230Elderberry and baneberry

As I was pondering which animals if any might eat the different berries I spotted something brown in the fireweed below the trail. It took a moment to register what I was seeing. I had my camera out and was zooming in to try and identify it, but as soon as it lifted its head I realized it was a bear.
IMG_3233Zoomed in photo.

It didn’t seem to notice me so I quietly and quickly continued on trying to put some distance between myself and it. I wasn’t too thrilled when the trail suddenly made a switchback and I was headed back toward where the bear was, albeit I was now higher up the hillside. I continued with a bit of a quicker pace until I felt that I’d gotten a decent distance away then slowed a bit to avoid missing the scenery. I passed a couple of hikers on their way down who I mentioned the bear to just in case it was still there.
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IMG_3236Small meadow along the trail.

IMG_3237Aneroid Mountain in the distance.

IMG_3242Mountain larkspur

IMG_3249Pika underneath some raspberries.

IMG_3252Pika

IMG_3257A few lupine were still blooming along the trail.

IMG_3260Doe in a small meadow along the trail.

IMG_3261

IMG_3270Tall mountain bluebells

IMG_3271The damaged footbridge.

While the climb had not been steep beyond the footbridge the climb became even more gradual. Just under a quarter mile from the bridge the trail split with inbound traffic staying right.
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The inbound trail traversed an exposed hillside with views down to the East Fork Wallowa River.
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IMG_3280

IMG_3284

IMG_3290East Fork Wallowa River

IMG_3291The inbound and outbound forks rejoining.

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IMG_3300East Fork Wallowa River flowing through a meadow along the trail.

IMG_3301Goldenrod

IMG_3303Unnamed creek crossing.

IMG_3309American sawort

IMG_3312Another doe in a meadow.

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IMG_3321A hazy view of Aneroid Mountain.

IMG_3327Pearly everlasting along the trail.

IMG_3330East Peak (post)

IMG_3331A closer look at East Peak.

I arrived at Roger Lake at what my GPS said was the 6-mile mark.
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It was another half mile of climbing to reach Aneroid Lake.
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Sullivan’s description said to ignore a use trail on the right leading to a campsite and to continue on to another fork that led to the private cabins at Camp Halton. I passed what I believed to be the right-hand fork Sullivan mentioned just before reaching a pair of wooden benches along the trail.
IMG_3337The benches.

Beyond the benches I came to a second fork which I mistook for the trail to the cabins. Sullivan mentioned that despite the cabins being on a small parcel of private land the caretakers accepted respectful visitors.
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There were no signs posted at all at this fork, so I proceeded steeply downhill and wound up in a campsite.

I still wasn’t sure if this was the trail to the cabins or the one Sullivan had said to ignore so I continued to follow the trail to the lakeshore.
IMG_3340Groundsel along the trail.

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IMG_3349A boat docked on the lakeshore in the distance.

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I decided to follow the trail along the lake shore and eventually wound up at the boat dock. At that point I realized that I for sure had taken the wrong fork and backtracked.
IMG_3357An inlet creek to the lake near the boat dock.

IMG_3360East Peak from Aneroid Lake.

I followed a different use path that climbed up from the lake a bit more gradually and wound up on the path down to the private cabins.
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I started down the trail but when I got into view of the cabins I decided not to bother anyone and took some zoomed in photos and headed back uphill.
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IMG_3374Signs for Camp Halton at the actual junction with the East Fork Wallowa Trail.

I headed back on the East Fork Trail and detoured down the first righthand fork to visit the lakeshore one last time before heading back to the trailhead.
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I kept a pretty quick pace on the way back down stopping for a few photos and to let a handful of uphill hikers pass.
Hammond's flycatcherHammond’s flycatcher

IMG_3395East Peak

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IMG_3400Lewis monkeyflower

IMG_3405Aneroid Mountain

IMG_3411Pollinator on a flower.

IMG_3412The split trail.

IMG_3416The outbound trail dropped quite steeply before meeting back up with the inbound trail.

IMG_3417The damaged bridge from the other side.

IMG_3418Fritillary butterfly

IMG_3421A comma butterfly

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IMG_3432Golden-mantled ground squirrel

IMG_3445Mount Howard

IMG_3448Coneflower

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IMG_3460Wallowa Lake

IMG_3463Quaking aspen

IMG_3470Arriving back at the trailhead.

According to the GPS my hike was 14-miles which lines up better with the reported 13.1-mile roundtrip vs Sullivan’s 12. The extra milage is mostly due to my taking the wrong righthand fork and then backtracking before heading down toward the cabins.
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I finished in just over 6 hours and located Heather at the Little Alps Day Use Area near where we’d parked. After taking a break at the picnic table she was sitting at I changed my shoes and socks and we drove down to the Khao Neaow Food Cart to get some tasty Thai food to take back to our room.

This was yet another great hike in the Eagle Cap Wilderness which is easily our favorite wilderness area in Oregon. We’re excited that the final hike in our quest for the 500 featured hikes will be in this wilderness, hopefully a little later this year. Of course there are many other hikes in the Wallowas that we’ve yet to do so that won’t be the last time we visit. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Aneroid Lake

Categories
Hiking Oregon Trip report Wallowas

Maxwell Lake – 08/21/2024

Continuing on our quest to hike at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” 1st edition (2022) we followed up our hike to Chimney Lake (post) by returning to Lostine River Road for the second day and parking at the Maxwell Lake Trailhead.
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Today’s hike was approximately 2.5-miles shorter than the hike to Chimney Lake but gained the same 2420′ of elevation.
Like the previous days hike we crossed Lostine River Road from the trailhead and then crossed the Lostine River on a bridge.
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IMG_2883The trail passes through the Shady Campground.

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IMG_2888Lostine River

On the far side the bride the trail entered the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
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Our plan for this hike was to split up to make the climb at our own pace and then I would wait for Heather at the lake, or until 11am in the event that she decided not to go the entire way. After entering the wilderness the trail initially climbed at a steady pace via 7 long switchbacks.
IMG_2894Unnamed creek crossing.

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IMG_2914Thimbleberry

IMG_2918One of the switchbacks.

IMG_2919Climbing into the sunlight.

Cassin's vireoPossibly a Cassin’s vireo.

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IMG_2928Another switchback.

IMG_2931Fireweed

IMG_2938Monkshood

IMG_2943Twisted stalk

IMG_2945Eagle Cap (post)

IMG_2951Looking down from the trail.

IMG_2954Paintbrush

IMG_2956Chipmunk

Shortly after the seventh switchback the trail turned uphill and began a very steep 0.8-mile climb to a pass.
IMG_2965The trail turning uphill ahead to start the steep climb.

Given this was our fifth day in a row of hiking, and fourth significant one, this steep section was a killer. My legs were burning as I made my way up to the pass.
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IMG_2974Meadow along a brief section of reasonably graded trail.

IMG_2979Nuttal’s linanthus

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IMG_2987

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IMG_3000The pass in view.

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IMG_3002Twin Peaks to the left over the shoulder of the ridge.

From the pass it was 0.2-miles down to Maxwell Lake.
IMG_3007The trail down to Maxwell Lake.

IMG_3012Ground squirrel on alert.

IMG_3016Maxwell Lake

The lake was gorgeous. I explored the shoreline for a moment before climbing up a granite outcrop with a great view of the lake and the trail coming down from the pass. I figured that Heather might be able to see me when she arrived and/or I’d notice her on her way down.
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IMG_3030Aster along the outlet creek.

IMG_3032Gentians

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IMG_3036Island in Maxwell Lake.

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IMG_3039The view from the granite outcrop.

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IMG_3047Looking back at the pass from the outcrop.

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IMG_3050Last of the snow at Maxwell Lake.

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I relaxed for about an hour at this beautiful lake before I spotted Heather coming down from the pass. It was chilly enough that I wound up eventually pulling out my wind jacket which was a wonderful change from our last couple of trips to the Wallowas. She made her way to the outcrop and joined me there. After she’d had a chance to rest we did a little more exploring and followed a use trail to nearby Jackson Lake.
IMG_3060Trail along Maxwell Lake.

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IMG_3065Trail to Jackson Lake.

IMG_3068Jackson Lake

IMG_3071False hellebore

IMG_3078Pika raising a warning call. Interestingly the pikas in the Wallowas make a sound that we don’t recall hearing from pikas in other areas. It was almost as if they had their own regional dialect.

After checking out Jackson Lake we started back.
IMG_3082Passing back over the granite outcrop.

IMG_3086Maxwell Lake’s outlet creek.

IMG_3084Trout in the outlet stream.

IMG_3090One last look at Maxwell Lake.

IMG_3098The view from the pass on the way back.

IMG_3102Heading down the steep section.

Aside from the lookout staffer at Summit Point and a couple of backpackers on the far side of Chimney Lake we hadn’t seen anyone else on the Wallowa trails until heading back down to the Maxwell Lake Trailhead. The first person we passed was coming up the steep section. She obviously spent quite a bit of time hiking in the area and was showing no signs of struggling with the steepness of the climb. We stopped and chatted for a bit and we told her about our featured hike quest. When we mentioned that the last hike on our list was Hidden Lake and we were planning on doing it as an overnight backpack she relayed some very helpful information regarding possible campsites. We thanked her and continued downhill running into a couple a little further down that were finding the climb as challenging as we had. We passed several more hikers on the way down, some with backpacking gear and some with fishing rods. We were glad to have had the lake to ourselves while we were there.
IMG_3111The afternoon lighting on the ridge across the Lostine River really brought out the colors.

IMG_3114Eagle Cap way up the valley.

IMG_3124Heather counted at least seven significant drops on a creek cascading down the far hillside.

IMG_3125Fritillary

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IMG_3129Canada jay

20240821_124229Police car moth

IMG_3143Back at the bridge over the Lostine River.

IMG_3145Lostine River

IMG_3146The Maxwell Lake Trailhead in the afternoon.

My GPS read 8.6-miles for the hike to Maxwell and Jackson Lakes with a little over 2400′ of elevation gain.
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We returned to Enterprise and after cleaning up headed out for an early dinner at La Laguna. The food was good, and their hand made Lagunita’s Salsa Loco had a nice kick to it. We took a slice of blackberry cheesecake to go which was also quite tasty. The next day would be our last hike for this trip and would put us at 99/100 featured hikes from Sullivan’s Eastern Oregon book and 499/500 for all five of the regions he covers. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Maxwell Lake

Categories
California Hiking Oregon Washington Year-end wrap up

Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – January 2024 Update

In 2019 we posted about our goal to complete 500 “featured” hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 hikes” guidebook series. The following year we finished the first of the five guidebooks (post) and followed that up by completing two more in 2021 (post). That left us with just the Eastern Oregon and Southern Oregon/Northern California books to complete. In 2022 we managed to make significant progress on the hikes to the south by checking off 28 featured hikes from the southern book, but just 6 featured hikes in the eastern book (post). That left us with a reasonable shot at completing the southern book in 2023.

We began the year with the remaining 19 southern hikes on the calendar along with 8 more eastern hikes. As is usually the case things did not go exactly as planned. Two of the hikes we’d planned during our first trip to Grants Pass in May were inaccessible due to lingering snow, but we were able to push them both back to later dates and complete them later in the year. We completed our 99th and 100th featured hikes on 10/09/2023 (post).

Then on our first tip to Eastern Oregon in June resulted in our deciding to switch the version of Sullivan’s book from the 3rd edition to his more recent “100 Hikes Eastern Oregon” 1st edition. (The edition numbers reset when Sullivan changed the title from 100 Hikes/Travel Guide simply to 100 Hikes.) The switch was prompted by us not feeling comfortable with, or having the time to make, the drive to Dug Bar (post). Dug Bar had been removed as a featured hike in the newer 1st edition, along with a few others, so making the switch allowed us to avoid that drive. The tradeoff was needing to return to Steens Mountain in SE Oregon to hike one of the new featured trails at Threemile Canyon, a mere 350 miles from Salem. At least that trailhead was located along a paved highway though. We rearranged some hikes in both 2023 and future years to move up the new featured hikes and were back on track. We wound up completing 10 featured hikes instead of 8 from the eastern book, but after subtracting the 6 former 3rd edition featured hikes that we’d completed, and adding one new featured hike that we’d already completed we ended the year up only 5 from the end of 2022 (84 vs 79).

Here is where we now stand at the end of 2023, having been on 484 of the 500 featured hikes:

100/100 – “100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” 4th Edition 2012 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” 3rd Edition 2009 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th Edition 2018 (post)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” Edition 4.2 2021 (post)

84/100 – “100 Hikes: Eastern Oregon” 1st Edition 2015

With just 16 more hikes to check off to complete our goal we are on track to finish the final hike in August 2024 somewhere in the Wallowa Mountains. Happy Trails!

Categories
California Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Crater Lake Area Grants Pass Area Hiking Klamath Mountains Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Marble Mountains Medford/Ashland Area Mt. Shasta Area Mt. Theilsen/Mt. Bailey Area Oregon Red Buttes Wilderness Rogue-Umpqua Divide Roseburg Area Salmon Mountains Scott Mountains Siskiyou mountains Sky Lakes/Mountain Lakes Area Trinity Alps Trinity Divide

Southern Oregon & Northern California

Several years ago we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks (post). In 2020 we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition (post) followed up by “100 HIkes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th edition (post).

Generally speaking in order to check a hike off our list we need to have hiked a substantial portion of Sullivan’s described hike or visited the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 66 of the hikes we followed the books described route. For the other 34 hikes various factors contributed to us not completing all of each featured hike. For some we started at a different trailhead, others had portions of trail(s) closed when we visited, and several had longer options that would have required multiple days to complete. In some other cases we did slightly different routes, sometimes by accident.

The area covered by Sullivan in this book, as the title suggests includes parts of Southern Oregon and Northern California. It contains his southernmost featured hike, Caribou Lakes. In general the area covered in Oregon begins just North of Roseburg extending East to Highway 97 (with the exception being Klamath Falls which is included in his Eastern Oregon book), South to California, and West to Marial on the Rogue River. In California the area extends south to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, West to the Siskiyou Wilderness, and East to the Mount Shasta Wilderness.

The hikes inside the red lines represent the location of the featured hikes.
A closer look at the area covered.

In addition to the three wilderness areas in California mentioned above the featured hikes included visits to the Marble Mountain, Castle Crags, Russian, and Red Buttes Wilderness areas in California. Wilderness areas in Oregon included the Red Buttes (OR & CA share this wilderness), Kalmiopsis, Wild Rogue, Soda Mountain, Mountain Lakes, Sky Lakes, Rogue-Umpqua Divide, Boulder Creek, and Mt. Thielsen.

In addition to the 15 designated wilderness areas there were hikes in two National Monuments – Oregon Caves & Cascade-Siskiyou, and Crater Lake National Park.

#1 North Bank Ranch-Hiked 6/5/2015 6/25/2023
Middle Ridge Trail - North Bank Habitat
#2 Fall Creek Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022 8/7/2022 6/25/2023
Fall Creek FallsFall Creek Falls
#3 Little River Waterfalls-Hiked 8/7/2022
Yasko FallsYasko Falls
#4 Boulder Creek-Hiked 9/7/2020
Boulder Creek
#5 Twin Lakes-Hiked 6/14/2022
Twin Lakes from a viewpoint above Twin Lakes
#6 Fish Lake-Hiked 9/3/2022
Highrock Mountain from Fish Lake
#7 Buckey and Cliff Lakes-Hiked 9/3/2022
View from Grasshopper Mountain
#8 Umpqua Hot Springs-Hiked 6/13/2022
Surprise Falls
#9 Toketee and Watson Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Toketee Falls
#10 Lemolo Falls-Hiked 6/13/2022
Lemolo Falls
#11 Cowhorn Mountain-Hiked 9/15/2016
Sawtooth Mountain from Cowhorn Mountain
#12 Miller and Maidu Lakes-Hiked 8/1/2012
Tipsoo Peak from Maidu Lake
#13 Tipsoo Peak-Hiked 10/2/2014
Howlock Mountain and Mt. Thielsen
#14 Thielsen Creek-Hiked 8/8/2020
Pacific Crest Trail at Thielsen Creek
#15 Mount Thielsen-Hiked 9/23/2012
Mt. Thielsen
#16 Diamond Lake-Hiked 9/5/2020
Mt. Thielsen from the Dellenback Trail
#17 Mount Bailey-Hiked 8/12/2012
Mt. Bailey Trail
#18 Boundary Springs-Hiked 6/13/2014
Unnamed waterfall below Boundary Springs on the Rogue River
#19 Park Headquarters-Hiked 7/31/2023
Wildflowers along the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail
#20 Garfield Peak-Hiked 7/31/2023
View from the Garfield Peak Trail
#21 Discovery Point-Hiked 9/19/2022
Crater Lake
#22 The Watchman-Hiked 8/12/2012 7/31/2023
Rim Trail
#23 Wizard Island-Hiked 8/1/2023
Crater Lake
#24 Mount Scott-Hiked 10/2/2014
Crater Lake
#25 Plaikni Falls and The Pinnacles-Hiked 7/30/2023
Plaikni Falls
#26 Crater Peak-Hiked 7/30/2023
Garfield and Applegate Peak on the left and Mt. Scott on the right
#27 Annie Creek & Godfrey Glen-Hiked 7/30/2023 7/31/2023
View from the Godfrey Glen Trail
#28 Union Peak-Hiked 9/17/2022
Union Peak Trail
#29 Upper and Lower Table Rocks-Hiked 6/9/2017 (Lower) & 5/26/2022 (Upper)
Wildflowers on Lower Table RockLower Table Rock

Lower Table Rock from Upper Table RockView from Upper Table Rock
#30 Lost Creek Lake-Hiked 6/9/2017
Lost Creek Lake
#31 Takelma Gorge-Hiked 10/15/2020
Takelma Gorge
#32 Natural Bridge-Hiked 10/16/2020
Rogue River
#33 Union Creek-Hiked 10/17/2020 9/20/2022
Union Creek Falls
#34 Abbott Butte-Hiked 10/17/2020
Old lookout tower on Abbott Butte
#35 Hershberger Mountain-Hiked 10/16/2020
View south from Hershberger Mountain
#36 Muir Creek-Hiked 5/27/2018
Hummingbird Meadows
#37 Rattlesnake Mountain-Hiked 9/6/2020
Rattlesnake Mountain from the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail
#38 Seven Lakes West-Hiked 9/9/2023
Alta Lake
#39 Seven Lakes East-Hiked 9/9/2023
Seven Lakes Basin
#40 Blue Lake Basin-Hiked 9/18/2022
Pear Lake
#41 Mount McLoughlin-Hiked 8/27/2016
Mt. McLoughlin
#42 Fourmile Lake-Hiked 8/26/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from Fourmile Lake
#43 Sky Lakes via Cold Springs-Hiked 9/24/2022
Luther Mountain and Lee Peak from one of the Heavenly Twin Lakes
#44 Sky Lakes via Nannie Creek-Hiked 9/24/2022
Saddle Mountain, Cherry Peak, and Pelican Butte with Trapper and Marguerette Lakes from the Divide Trail
#45 Fish Lake-Hiked 10/7/2018
Fish Lake Trail
#46 Brown Mountain Lava Flow-Hiked 8/28/2016
Mt. McLoughlin from the Brown Mountain Lava Flow
#47 Lake of the Woods-Hiked 10/7/2018
Mt. McLoughlin from Lake of the Woods
#48 Mountain Lakes-Hiked 8/25/2016
Mt. McLoughlin, Whiteface Peak, Pelican Butte, and Mount Harriman from Aspen Butte
#49 Soda Mountain-Hiked 6/3/2015
Boccard Point and Mt. Shasta in the distance
#50 Pilot Rock-Hiked 7/29/2017
Columnar basalt of Pilot Rock
#51 Mount Ashland Meadows-Hiked 6/3/2015
A cloud covered Mt. Shasta from the Pacific Crest Trail on Mt. Ashland
#52 Lithia Park-Hiked 6/2/2015
Black Swan Lake in Lithia Park
#53 Bandersnatch Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Marty the Pacific Fisher from the Bandersnatch Trail
#54 White Rabbit Trail-Hiked 6/17/2022
Mike Uhtoff Trail
#55 Grizzly Peak-Hiked 6/5/2015
Veiw from Grizzly Peak
#56 Roxy Ann Peak-Hiked 5/30/2022
View from the Ponderosa Trail
#57 Wagner Butte-Hiked 6/4/2015
Mt. McLoughling from Wagner Butte
#58 Siskiyou Gap-Hiked 6/16/2022
Big Red Mountain
#59 Jack-Ash Trail-Hiked 5/27/2022
Jack-Ash Trail
#60 Sterling Ditch Tunnel-Hiked 6/10/2017 5/2/2023
Sterling Mine Ditch Trail
#61 Jacksonville-Hiked 6/8/2017
View from Panorama Point
#62 Enchanted Forest-Hiked 6/11/2017
Enchanted Forest Trail
#63 Observation Peak-Hiked 6/15/2022
View from Observation Peak
#64 Collings Mountain-Hiked 6/8/2017
Applegate Lake from the Collings Mountain Trail
#65 Applegate Lake-Hiked 6/8/2017 5/29/2022
Applegate Lake
#66 Red Buttes-Hiked 10/27/2015
Marble outcrop below Kangaroo Mountain
#67 Frog Pond-Hiked 6/18/2022
Cabin ruins at Frog Pond
#68 Azalea Lake-Hiked 10/26/2015
Azalea Lake and Figurehead Mountain
#69 Sturgis Fork-Hiked 10/7/2023
Boundary Trail passing through a meadow
#70 Grayback Mountain-Hiked 10/9/2023
Grayback Mountain snow shelter
#71 Oregon Caves-Hiked 10/30/2015
Looking up inside the Paradise Lost room of the Oregon Cave
#72 Mount Elijah-Hiked 10/7/2023
Lake Mountain Trail heading toward the taller Mount Elijah
#73 Sucker Creek-Hiked 10/26/2015
Sucker Creek Shelter
#74 Tanner Lakes-Hiked 10/8/2023
Tanner Lake
#75 Bolan Lake-Hiked 10/8/2023
Bolan Lake
#76 Polar Bear Gap-Hiked 7/1/2022
Polar Bear Mountain
#77 Raspberry Lake-Hiked 7/3/2022
Preston Peak and Bear Mountain from the Raspberry Lake Trail
#78 Devils Punchbowl-Hiked 7/2/2022
Devil's Punchbowl
#79 Rough and Ready Creeks-Hiked 5/12/2017
Rough and Ready Creek
#80 Babyfoot Lake-Hiked 10/9/2023
Babyfoot Lake
#81 Eight Dollar Mountain-Hiked 5/4/2023
Eight Dollar Mountain Boardwalk
#82 Illinois River Beaches-Hiked 5/4/2023
Illinois River from the Kerby Flat Trail
#83 Grants Pass Nature Trails 5/3/2023
Indian warrior along the Outback Loop
#84 Rouge River Trail East-Hiked 5/1/2023
Manzanita along the Rogue River Trail
#85 Rogue River Trail West-Hiked 6/24/2023
Rogue River Trail
#86 Paradise Lake-Hiked 6/28/2016
View from Kings Castle
#87 Sky High Lakes-Hiked 6/29/2016
Shooting star along Frying Pan Lake
#88 Campbell Lake-Hiked 6/27/2016
Cliff Lake
#89 Paynes Lake-Hiked 7/24/2017
Paynes Lake
#90 Russian Lake-Hiked 8/24/2022
Russian Lake
#91 Hidden & South Fork Lakes-Hiked 8/26/2022
Upper South Fork Lake
#92 Trail Gulch Lake-Hiked 8/25/2022
Trail Gulch Lake from the Trail Gulch Tie Trail
#93 East Boulder Lake-Hiked 8/23/2022
East Boulder Lake
#94 Kangaroo Lake-Hiked 7/23/2017
Kangaroo Lake
#95 Deadfall Lakes-Hiked 7/25/2017
Lower Deadfall Lake
#96 Caribou Lake-Hiked 7/27/2017
View from the Old Caribou Lake Trail
#97 Castle Lake-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Lake and Mt. Shasta
#98 Castle Crags-Hiked 7/26/2017
Castle Crags
#99 Black Butte-Hiked 7/28/2017
Mt. Eddy from the Black Butte Trail
#100 Mount Shasta Meadows-Hiked 8/22/2022
Mt. Shasta from South Gate Meadows

In our minds this was by far the most challenging area to finish even though we did so before completing Eastern Oregon. The difficulty with Eastern Oregon mostly revolves around distance from Salem and the size of the area covered. The Southern Oregon-Northern California area is smaller and the hikes not as far away, but it involved a lot of trails that frankly don’t see the level of maintenance that most of the other areas receive. While we’ve encountered rough trails, all over poison oak is much more prevalent down south which doesn’t invite pushing through overgrown tread or bushwacking around obstacles. This area has also been hit harder by fires over the last couple of decades leaving extra work to reopen them as well as remove additional blowdown as the dead trees fall over. When the conditions were good though the scenery and diverse plant and wildlife made for some spectacular hikes. There are many that we’d love to do again and several non-featured hikes that we have in our future plans, so we aren’t done with area yet. Happy Trails!

Categories
Grants Pass Area Hiking Klamath/Siskiyou Mountains Oregon Trip report

Grayback Meadows and Babyfoot Lake – 10/09/2023

After double checking the weather forecast for our final two days in Grants Pass we’d decided that making an attempt at doing both of our remaining featured hikes on Monday provided us the best chance at semi-decent weather. Both trailheads were less than 40-miles from our room, but Grayback Mountain was to the SE while Babyfoot Lake was to the SW. A minor inconvenience but the extra driving in between might allow for some better weather in the afternoon at Babyfoot Lake. We’d already decided to stick to the shorter options for both hikes, partly due to the forecasted cloudy conditions and partly because Heather hadn’t been feeling well all weekend and I was feeling pretty spent after the previous two days of hiking. We began our morning under surprisingly dry skies as we left Grants Pass but soon found the rain as we neared the O’Brien Creek Lower Trailhead.
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For his featured hikes Sullivan uses the O’Brien Creek Upper Trailhead but mentions a section of sharp rocks that can cause flat tires on the way to that trailhead. Starting at the lower trailhead would add 2-miles round trip but we felt it was worth not risking a flat. What we didn’t count on was how steeply sections of the 1-mile stretch would be as it climbed nearly 650′ to the upper trailhead.
IMG_0924O’Brien Creek near the trailhead.

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IMG_0931It seemed like all of the climbs this weekend had been steep.

IMG_0936After two warm sunny days this hike finally felt like Fall.

IMG_0938As I approached this footbridge I noticed a yellow jacket fly into the big hole along the right side of the trail. A quick peak in revealed a busy nest so we wound up bushwacking uphill and around it hopping onto the bridge at the edge of the marsh ahead.

IMG_0947A nice newer looking sign at the upper trailhead.

At the upper trailhead we gave up on our rain gear. A light mist is all that was falling and our sweat from the climbing was making us wetter than the mist would. From the upper trailhead the trail followed an old roadbed for 0.2-miles.
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At the end of the old roadbed this trail too decided to steepen greatly gaining approximately 900′ in nearly a mile to a junction with a spur trail to the Grayback Snow Shelter.
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IMG_0959There were a few really big trees in the forest along the trail.

IMG_0969Grayback Mountain from the trail.

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IMG_0978The trail crossing O’Brien Creek.

IMG_0982The junction with the spur trail to the snow shelter. It took me far too long to realize that the sign was upside down. I couldn’t figure out why it thought the Boundary Trail was to the left, after looking at it a few more times it dawned on me that the words were upside down.

IMG_0983Ah ha! It wouldn’t stay this way but it sure made more sense.

For the longer option to the summit of Grayback Mountain we would have taken the right-hand fork and gained another 1600′ to 1700′ over the 1.8-miles to the summit. Instead we forked left losing a little elevation over the 0.2-miles to the shelter.
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There had been another car at the lower trailhead and we thought that the owner might be staying in the shelter but when we hiked past the shelter into Grayback Meadows we could hear voices in the trees.
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IMG_0999There used to be a cabin out in the meadows and now there is a snow gauge and a campsite which may be where the voices were coming from.

IMG_1001We took a quick peak inside the shelter where some of the backpacker’s stuff was.

After checking out the shelter and meadows we returned the way we’d come.
IMG_1010It was steep going down too.

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IMG_1016Trail pointer near the upper trailhead marking the continuation of the O’Brien Creek Trail to the lower trailhead.

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IMG_1024We always enjoy seeing madrones on our hikes in Southern Oregon.

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IMG_1032Slug on a shroom.

IMG_1034Bug on a shroom.

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IMG_1043One more steep drop to the lower trailhead.

Our hike here came to 4.8-miles and upwards of 1750′ of elevation gain.

From the trailhead we drove North to Murphy then cut over to Highway 199 and headed back South to the Babyfoot Lake Trailhead. While the amount of precipitation during our hike to Grayback Meadows had been far less than we’d expected (we even spotted a small window of blue sky) it was raining steadily as we started up the gravel roads to the Babyfoot Lake Trailhead. Not only that but we quickly found ourselves in the cloud limiting visibility so it was a tedious 12-miles of bumpy roads.
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Wind and rain met us at the trailhead and our rain jackets made a second appearance. The trail began at a signboard and traversed a hillside below Hungry Hill for 0.3-miles to a fork.
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IMG_1051The forest is recovering from the 2002 Biscuit Fire.

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IMG_1056To the left was the Babyfoot Lake Rim Trail. Sullivan’s longer option here include following this trail 0.9-miles to a viewpoint above the lake. Given the fog that seemed pointless, and it also looked like that trail was in need of some maintenance.

We forked right and continued to descend through the fog for nearly a mile to the lake.
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IMG_1062A small stream with crystal clear water along the trail.

IMG_1065My nemesis, the varied thrush.

IMG_1066Near the lake the trail passes this rock outcrop which is a viewpoint without the fog.

IMG_1068Some of the trees around the lake survived the 2002 fire.

Babyfoot Lake lies just within the Kalmiopsis Wilderness boundary, marking just the second time (post) we’d visited this nearly 180,000-acre wilderness.
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After visiting the lake we headed back up toward the car. Before we’d even made it past the rocky viewpoint the clouds began to break up revealing some patches of sunlight and blue sky.
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IMG_1084I of course had to head out onto the viewpoint given the rapidly changing conditions.

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Conditions continued to improve as we climbed back to the trailhead revealing more of the wilderness and surrounding terrain.
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IMG_1098The patterns on this snag caught my eye.

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IMG_1103The trailhead on the ridge ahead.

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This short hike came to just 2.6-miles and 360′ of elevation gain and marked the completion of our quest to hike at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” edition 4.2 (post).

With Southern Oregon complete, joining the Central Oregon Cascades, Coast & Coast Range, and NW Oregon & SW Washington, we are down to just 16 Eastern Oregon hikes to reach 500. Happy Trails!

Flickr: Grayback Meadows and Babyfoot Lake

Categories
Hiking Year-end wrap up

Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – January 2023 Update

In 2019 we posted about our goal to complete 500 “featured” hikes from William L. Sullivan’s “100 hikes” guidebook series. The following year we finished the first of the five guidebooks (post) and followed that up by completing two more in 2021 (post). That left us with just the Eastern Oregon and Southern Oregon/Northern California books to complete, and while we didn’t finish either of them off in 2022, we did manage to make significant progress on the hikes to the south by checking off 28 more featured hikes. There was less progress to the east where we were completed just 6 more featured hikes.

Here is where we now stand at the end of 2022, having been on 460 of the 500 featured hikes:

100/100 – “100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” 4th Edition 2012

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” 3rd Edition 2009

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th Edition 2018

79/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” 3rd Edition 2015

81/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” 4th Edition 2017

We now have just 40 more hikes to check off to complete our goal and with the progress made in 2022 coupled with some creative rearranging of our plans for the remaining hikes we are on track to finish the final hike in September 2024 at Imnaha Falls. A lot of things still need to go right for that to happen, but as of right now if things do go as planned, we will finish Southern Oregon in 2023 and have just 14 hikes in Eastern Oregon to do in 2024.

Categories
Hiking

Progress Report – 500 “Featured Hikes” – February, 2022 Update

Sometime back in 2016 we committed to making a serious attempt to complete a couple of hiking goals that we had discussed. One was visiting all of the federally designated wilderness areas in Oregon, which we accomplished in 2021 (post), and the other was hiking at least a portion of all 100 featured hikes in at least one edition of William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes” guidebook series. Sullivan splits the State up into five areas, Oregon Coast & Coast Range, NW Oregon & SW Washington, Central Oregon Cascades, Southern Oregon & Northern California, and Eastern Oregon. Five areas times 100 featured hikes in each comes to a grand total of 500 featured hikes.

In 2020 we completed the Central Oregon Cascades Area (post) and followed that up in 2021 by finishing both the Oregon Coast (post) and NW Oregon (post) featured hikes leaving just Eastern and Southern Oregon & Northern California.

In our 2020 update we stated that we ended that year having checked off 401 out of the 500 featured hikes based on the following editions of Sullivan’s books:
“100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” 4th Edition 2012
“100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” 4th Edition 2016
“100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th Edition 2018
“100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” 3rd Edition 2015
“100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” 4th Edition 2017

In order to finish the Oregon Coast book we switched from the 2016 4th edition to his earlier 2009 3rd edition due to the continued closure of the Salmonberry Railroad which lowered the number from 401 to 397. So while we sit at 99/100 for that 4th edition reverting to the 3rd edition made it possible to check that area off. We also had failed to count our Collings Mountain Loop (post) in Southern Oregon as having completed a portion of Sullivan’s Applegate Lake hike so we were actually at 398 of 500. (We plan on hiking more of the trails at Applegate Lake in 2022.)

In addition to the 9 hikes to finish out the Oregon Coast Book, and 6 hikes for NW Oregon, we managed to check off 13 featured hikes from the Eastern Oregon book ending the year at 73. Unfortunately we made no headway on the Southern Oregon & Northern California book. The impacts of various wildfires thwarted all our plans to visit that area in 2021 and in all honesty making us question if we will ever actually be able to finish that one. We do have several trips planned this year and over the next couple in hopes of making our goal but if the wildfire seasons of the past couple of years continue it is going to be difficult. We did move from the 2017 4th edition to the 2021 4.2 edition due to Sullivan swapping out a couple of fire damaged hikes for more accessible ones.

If conditions cooperate we will remain on track to complete the Southern book in 2024 and the Eastern book in 2025. Nearly all of the hikes remaining in the Eastern book are located either in the Wallowa Mountains or Hells Canyon in the NE corner of the State. Mount Ireland is the lone hike outside of those two areas and it is on this years list.

Finally in 2021 we also completed the 5th edition of the Central Oregon Cascades book. When we completed that area in 2020 the final hike, Erma Bell Lakes, technically finished both the 3rd and 4th editions but it was the 4th we were focusing on due to some crossover between that 3rd edition and the 3rd edition of the Eastern Oregon book.

As we head into the 2022 hiking season we are at 426 out of 500 featured hikes or 85.2% of our goal.
100/100 – “100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades” 4th Edition 2012 (also 3rd & 5th editions)

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range” 3rd Edition 2009

100/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington” 4th Edition 2018

73/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Eastern Oregon” 3rd Edition 2015

53/100 – “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Southern Oregon & Northern California” 4th Edition 2021

With Sullivan continuing to release new editions and updated versions I’m sure we will have plenty of ideas going forward. We are also working our way through hikes in several of Matt Reeder’s guidebooks (The Ruddy Hill Press).

Whether or not we actually reach our goal of all 500 is secondary to the all of the amazing places our chasing the 500 has led us to. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking

Oregon Coast & Coast Range

Several years ago we set a goal for ourselves to hike all 500 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes…” series of guidebooks (post). Last year we completed the first of these books covering the Central Oregon Cascades (post). We followed that up by completing a pair of books in 2021 starting with Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast and Coast Range” 3rd edition. Up until the start of 2021 we had been intending to finish his 4th edition but the continued closure of the Salmonberry Railroad prompted us to revert to the earlier edition. That meant going from only needing to finish 5 hikes to 9 hikes but at least the 9 hikes were open and thus we were able to visit them. The last final featured hike happened to be featured hike #1 – Leadbetter Point (post) which we visited on 7/31/2021. Many of the featured hikes in this book are shorter hikes with some barely more than a half mile so we often did multiple hikes in a single day.

Generally speaking in order to check a hike off our list we need to have hiked a substantial portion of Sullivan’s described hike or visited the main attraction(s) he identifies for the hike. For 59 of the hikes we stuck to a nearly identical route to the one described in the book. For another 22 hikes we added to the hike, either following Sullivan’s “other options” or making it up on our own. Eighteen of the hikes were limited to the main attraction which typically involved hikes where there was an option for a shuttle from a second trailhead or as in the case of the Rogue River Trail there were options for multi-day backpacking trips. (We will get to more of the Rogue River Trail as we work through his Southern Oregon book.) Finally one hike, #86 Lower Rogue River, was cut very short due to trail damage. We may revisit that trail at a later date but we counted it as we went as far as we felt we could safely at the time.

The area covered by Sullivan in this book is unique in that it is the only area in which there are featured hikes in three states – Washington, Oregon, and California. It also contains the northern most featured hike the aforementioned Leadbetter Point. The area covered is a somewhat narrow strip running down the coastline from Leadbetter Point south to Redwoods National Park in California. A few hikes are located as far inland as the foothills of the Coast Range along the edge of the Willamette Valley.

Despite being a fairly narrow (approximately 60 miles east to west) area the hikes were quite varied from beach walks to mountain summits, sand dunes to temperate rain forests, and urban walks to the solitude of remote wilderness.

The area is home to several designated wilderness areas including the two areas that are off-limits to visitors, Oregon Islands and Three Arch Rocks. The areas open to visitors are the Drift Creek, Cummins Creek, Rock Creek, Devils Staircase, Grassy Knob, Copper-Salmon, Wild Rogue, and Kalmiopsis.

Two mountain ranges are home to several hikes. The Coast Range extends over 200 miles from the Oregon/Washington border south to the Middle Fork Coquille River. At the southern end of the Coast Range the Klamath Mountains begin extending south into California. The elevations for these hikes ranged from sea level to 4655′ atop Vulcan Peak in the Klamath Mountains (Mary’s Peak at 4097′ marked the high point in the Coast Range).

Lastly many of the hikes along the Oregon Coast follow the route of the Oregon Coast Trail.

Without further ado here is a list of the 100 featured hikes along with a photo (or two where two distinctly different hikes were included in the entry) from the 2009 3rd edition of “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range”.

#1 Leadbetter Point – Hiked 7/31/2021
Bay Loop Trail

#2 Long Beach – Hiked 9/11/2017
Discovery Trail

#3 North Head – Hiked 9/11/2017
North Head Lighthouse

#4 Cape Disappointment – Hiked 9/11/2017
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

#5 Fort Columbia – Hiked 9/11/2017
Fort Columbia

#6 Clatsop Spit – Hiked 9/9/2017
Elk at Clatsop Spit

#7 Fort Stevens – Hiked 9/9/2017
Battery Russell

#8 Fort Clatsop – Hiked 1/10/2016
Fort Clatsop

#9 Astoria – Hiked 9/9/2017
Megler Bridge in Astoria

#10 Seaside Promenade – Hiked 9/12/2017
Seaside promanade

#11 Tillamook Head – Hiked 12/8/2013
Cold morning in Ecola State Park

#12 Cannon Beach – Hiked 9/10/2017
Haystack Rock

#13 Saddle Mountain – Hiked 5/31/2013 & 6/23/2018
Saddle Mountain Summit Trail

#14 Highway 26 Waysides – Hiked 6/23/2018
Four County PointFour County Point

Dooley Spur LoopSunset Rest Area

#15 Banks-Vernonia Railroad – Hiked – 4/10/2016 & 1/16/2021 (Also ran as a marathon in 2014.)
Buxton Trestle

#16 Cape Falcon – Hiked 6/22/2012 & 4/29/2017
Cape Falcon from the Arch Cape to Cape Falcon Trail

#17 Neahkahnie Mountain – Hiked 1/5/2014
Lunch on Neahkahnie Mountian

#18 Nehalem Bay – Hiked 1/1/2018
Inlet along Nehalem Bay

#19 Munson Falls – Hiked 5/30/2015
Munson Falls

#20 Bayocean Spit – Hiked 4/14/2013
Cape Meares from Bayocean Peninsula Park

#21 Cape Meares – Hiked 1/1/2018
Cape Meares Lighthouse

#22 Wilson River – Hiked 3/8/2014
Bridge Creek Falls

#23 Kings Mountain – Hiked 8/16/2010
Elk Mountain Summit

#24 Gales Creek – Hiked 2/15/2015
Gales Creek

#25 Hagg Lake – Hiked 9/13/2019
Henry Haag Lake

#26 Cape Lookout – Hiked 11/11/2011
Cape Lookout

#27 Pacific City – Hiked 10/8/2013
Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda

#28 Mount Hebo – Hiked 5/30/2011 & 5/30/2015
Mount Hebo Trail

#29 Niagara Falls – Hiked 2/12/2017
Niagara Falls

#30 Neskowin – Hiked 2/12/2017
Proposal Rock

#31 Harts Cove – Hiked 12/6/2014
Harts Cove and Chitwood Creeks waterfall

#32 Cascade Head – Hiked 8/8/2010, 6/25/2019, & 9/28/19 (Inland Trail)
View from the Cascade Head Trail

Cascade Head Rainforest TrailInland (Rainforest) Trail

#33 Baskett Slough Refuge – Hiked 7/11/2010, 5/3/2020 & 4/15/2021
Baskett Butte

#34 Valley of the Giants – Hiked 5/18/2020
Valley of the Giants

#35 Roads End – Hiked 3/6/2021
Roads End Beach

#36 Drift Creek Falls – Hiked 12/6/2014
Drift Creek Falls

#37 Salishan Spit – Hiked 8/1/2015
Salishan Spit

#38 Devil’s Punchbowl – Hiked 7/12/2012
Devi's Punchbowl

#39 Newport Lighthouses – Hiked 8/26/2017
Yaquina Head Lighthouse from the Salal Hill TrailYaquina Head

Yaquina Bay BridgeYaquina Bay

#40 South Beach – Hiked 8/4/2018
Estuary TrailEstuary Trail

Yaquina Head across the jettySouth Jetty

Mike Miller TrailMike Miller Trail

#41 Ona Beach and Seal Rock – Hiked 12/11/2017
Exposed rocks on Ona Beach

#42 Drift Creek North – Hiked 9/15/2010
Drift Creek

#43 Drift Creek South – Hiked 8/3/2019
Drift Creek

#44 Mary’s Peak – Hiked 2009 (day unknown), 6/1/2014, & 6/5/2021
South side of Mary's Peak summit

#45 Kings Valley – Hiked 6/1/2014
Fort Hoskins Historic ParkFort Hoskins

Bridge leading into the Beazell ForestBeazell Forest

#46 Peavy Arboretum – Hiked 2/19/2018
Section 36 Loop Trail

#47 Chip Ross Park & Dimple Hill – Hiked 12/18/2016 & 10/2/2021
Mary's Peak from Dimple Hill

#48 Finley Wildlife Refuge – Hiked 10/21/2017, 5/31/20, & 4/14/2021
Homer Campbell Boardwalk

#49 Alsea Falls – Hiked 12/19/2012
Alsea Falls

#50 Yachats – Hiked 12/5/2020
Pacific Ocean from the 804 Trail

#51 Cape Perpetua – HIked 9/15/2010, 2/17/2013, & 10/27/2018
View from Cape Perpetua

#52 Gwynn Creek – Hiked 2/17/2013
Cummins Creek Loop Trail

#53 Heceta Head – Hiked 12/11/2017
Heceta Head Lighthouse

#54 Baker Beach – Hiked 1/15/2017
Heading back toward Baker Beach Camp

#55 Sutton Creek – Hiked 2/20/2016
Sutton Creek

#56 Cape Mountain – Hiked 9/5/2011
Nelson Ridge Trail

#57 Pawn and Pioneer Trails – Hiked 5/13/2021
Interpretive sign along the Mapleton Hill Pioneer TrailPioneer Hill Trail

Pawn Old Growth TrailPawn Old Growth Trail

#58 Siuslaw Ridge Trails – Hiked 2/20/2016 & 11/20/2021
View from the summit of the Old Growth Ridge TrailOld Growth Ridge Trail

Clay Creek TrailClay Creek Trail

#59 Sweet Creek Falls – Hiked 2/20/2016
Sweet Creek Falls

#60 Kentucky Falls – Hiked 5/9/2015
Upper Kentucky Falls

#61 Honeyman Park – Hiked 12/8/2018
Dune in Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

#62 Siltcoos Lake – Hiked 12/8/2018
Siltcoos Lake

#63 Siltcoos River – Hiked 12/8/2018
Siltcoos River

#64 Taylor Dunes – Hiked 9/13/2018
Taylor Dunes Trail

#65 Oregon Dunes – Hiked 1/1/2015
View from Oregon Dunes day use area

#66 Tahkenitch Creek – Hiked 1/1/2015 & 9/16/2018
Tahkenitch Creek

#67 Tahkenitch Dunes – Hiked 1/1/2015
First look at Tahkenitch Dunes

#68 Lake Marie – Hiked 9/13/2018
Lake Marie

#69 Umpqua Dunes – Hiked 9/13/2018
Umpqua Dunes

#70 Golden and Silver Falls – Hiked 5/16/2021
Golden Falls

#71 Shore Acres – Hiked 5/15/2021
Simpson Reef

#72 South Slough Estuary – Hiked 5/15/2021
South Slough

#73 Fivemile Point – Hiked 5/13/2021
Heading south toward Fivemile Point

#74 Bullards Beach – Hiked 9/15/2018
Coquille River Lighthouse

#75 Bandon Islands – Hiked 9/14/2018
Bandon Islands

#76 New River – Hiked 9/14/2018
New River

#77 Floras Lake – Hiked 5/8/2017
Paintbrush and Blacklock Point

#78 Cape Blanco – Hiked 5/8/2017
Cape Blanco Lighthouse

#79 Port Orford Heads – Hiked 5/8/2017
Port Orford Heads State Park

#80 Humbug Mountain – Hiked 5/16/2016
View from the Humbug Mountain summit meadow

#81 Sisters Rock – Hiked 5/16/2016
Thistle at Sisters Rock State Park

#82 Otter Point – Hiked 5/16/2016
View north from Otter Point State Park

#83 Coquille River Falls – Hiked 5/6/2017
Coquille River FallsCoquille River Falls

Elk Creek FallsElk Creek Falls

#84 Hanging Rock – Hiked 5/7/2017
Hanging RockHanging Rock

#85 Rogue River Trail – Hiked 5/14/2021
Rogue River

#86 Lower Rogue River – Hiked 5/9/2017
Washout along the Lower Rogue River Trail

#87 Illinois River – Hiked 5/20/2016
Indigo Creek

#88 Shrader Old Growth Trail – Hiked 5/9/2017
Francis Shrader Old Growth TrailShrader Old Growth Trail

Oregon's largest known Myrtlewood TreeMyrtle Tree Trail

#89 Cape Sebastian – Hiked 5/18/2016
Hunters Island from the Oregon Coast Trail

#90 Boardman Park North – Hiked 5/21/2016

#91 Boardman Park South – Hiked 5/19/2016
Lupine

#92 Vulcan Lake – Hiked 5/17/2016
Vulcan LakeVulcan Lake

Little Vulcan Lake below Vulcan PeakVulcan Peak

#93 Redwood Nature Trail – Hiked 5/17/2016
Big redwood along the Redwood Nature Trail

#94 Wheeler Ridge Bomb Site – Hiked 5/19/2016
Viewing platform for the bomb crater

#95 Oregon Redwoods – Hiked 5/13/2021
Inside a redwood trunk

#96 Stout Grove – Hiked 10/25/2015
Stout Memorial Grove

#97 Boy Scout Tree – Hiked 10/25/2015
Boy Scout Tree

#98 Damnation Creek – Hiked 10/24/2014
On the rocky beach near Damnation Creek

#99 Hidden Beach – Hiked 5/11/2017
Hidden Beach

#100 Fern Canyon – Hiked 5/10/2017
Fern Canyon

With any luck the Salmonberry Railroad will be reopened in the not too distant future so we can say we’ve completed the 4th edition as well. In the meantime there are still other non-featured hikes to explore and trails to revisit. Happy Trails!

Categories
Hiking Year-end wrap up

The Hikes of 2021 – A Look Back

It’s hard to believe another year has passed but here we are once again looking back on 12 months worth of hikes. While 2021 was an improvement over 2020 in almost every way it still had its share of ups and downs including losing our remaining cat Hazel in June and my Grandmother in October. While the challenge of finding places to hike due to COVID in 2020 were no more, the same couldn’t be said for COVID itself and it seems like it will be around for awhile. Wildfires once again were a large factor in deciding on our destinations, another issue that doesn’t appear to be going away any time soon.

Despite these issues we had some great hikes in 2021. I slipped an extra three hikes in during the month of April to wind up hiking on 58 days for a total of 641.5 miles while Heather got 55 days in and 614.7 miles. Forty of the hikes were entirely new to us while only one, Tumalo Mountain (post), was an complete repeat. We had done that one over after failing to catch the sunrise on our first try and boy was it worth it.

Our first and final hikes of the year were on converted railroads.
Banks-Vernonia State TrailBanks-Vernonia State Trail in January. (post)

Row River TrailRow River Trail in December. (post)

Over the course of the year we managed to complete several of our long term hiking goals. A trip to Cottonwood Canyon State Park in May marked our first hike in Gilliam County which is the last of Oregon’s 36 counties that we had not hiked in.
John Day RiverJohn Day River from the Lost Corral Trail

Trips in June and July took us to the final four of the 46 designated wilderness areas (open to visitors) that we had yet to visit in Oregon. In all we spent twenty-one days hiking in 15 different designated wilderness areas.
Ninemile RidgeNinemile Ridge in the North Fork Umatilla Wilderness in June. (post)

Devil's StaircaseDevil’s Staircase Wilderness in July. (post)

Owl Creek Trail entering the Black Canyon WildernessBlack Canyon Wilderness in July. (post)

Cairn on Monument RockMonument Rock Wilderness in July. (post)

By the end of July we had also completed our goal of hiking at least part of all 100 featured hikes in William L. Sullivan’s “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Oregon Coast” guidebook and in August we did the same with his “100 Hikes/Travel Guide Northwest Oregon and Southwest Washington” guidebook.
Bay Loop TrailLedbetter Point, the last of the hikes from the coast book. (post)

Badger LakeBadger Lake, the last hike from the northwestern book. (post)

Finishing those two books in addition to the central Cascades book we completed last year (post) left just the eastern and southern books. We checked off 14 featured hikes from the eastern book but were unfortunately unable to make any headway on the southern book due to the wildfires and persistent smoke that plagued southern Oregon and northern California for much of the hiking season.

Our northern most hike was at the aforementioned Ledbetter Point while our southern most hike was on the Oregon Redwoods Trail near the California border (post).
RedwoodsRedwoods

The western most hike was, as usual, along the Oregon Coast at Cape Argo State Park. (post)
Shell Island

This marked the first time 3 hikes from the same guidebook marked the furthest in different directions. For obvious reasons the eastern most hike was not from the coast book but from the eastern book. That was our hike on the Wenaha River Trail. (post)
Wenaha River Trail

As we have done the last couple of years we plan on putting together 2021 wildlife and wildflower posts but we’ll leave you with a few of our favorite sights throughout the year. For the most part the weather was good but wildfire smoke often impacted views.
Falls on Fall CreekFalls Creek – February

Cascade headCascade Head from God’s Thumb – March

Columbia River from Mitchell PointColumbia River from Mitchell Point – March

Mt. Hood and Columbia desert parsleyMt. Hood from Sevenmile Hill – March

Wildflowers at Dalles Mountain RanchDalles Mountain Ranch – April

Mt. AdamsMt. Adams from Grayback Mountain – May

Big tree down over the Pawn Old Growth TrailNavigating a downed tree along the Pawn Old Growth Trail – May

Rogue River TrailRogue River Trail – May

Golden FallsGolden Falls – May

Mt. HoodLenticular cloud over Mt. Hood from Surveyor’s Ridge – May

Whychus CanyonWhychus Canyon – May

Deschutes RiverDeschutes River – May

Whychus Creek OverlookWhychus Creek Overlook – May

Old growth noble fir standForest on Mary’s Peak – June

North Fork Umatilla RiverNorth Fork Umatilla River – June

Tower Mountain LookoutTower Mountain Lookout – June

Malheur River TrailMalheur River – June

Meadow along the Round Mountain TrailMeadow on Round Mountain – June

Mt. Jefferson from Santiam LakeSantiam Lake – July

Three Fingered Jack from Lower Berley LakeThree Fingered Jack from Lower Berley Lake (and a butterfly photobomb) – July

View from Subsitute PointThe Husband and Three Sisters from Substitute Point – July

Lookout and Round Mountain from the Ochoco Mountain TrailOchoco
Mountain Trail – July

Red SunRed Sun through wildfire smoke from the Monument Rock Wilderness – July

Canyon Mountain TrailCanyon Mountain Trail, Strawberry Mountain Wilderness – July

Fields Peak, Moore Mountain, Moon Mountain and Second PeakAldrich Mountains – July

Summit of Mount MitchellMt. Mitchell summit on a rare poor weather day – August

Mt. BachelorMt. Bachelor – August

View from Cottonwood CampCottonwood Camp, Big Indian Gorge in the Steens Mountain Wilderness – August

Wildhorse Lake TrailWildhorse Lake, Steens Mountain Wilderness – August

Sun behind a cloud over FrenchglenEvening at the Steens Mountain Resort – August

Little Blitzen GorgeLittle Blitzen Gorge – August

Riddle RanchRiddle Ranch – August

Sun through a line of wildfire smokeMorning in the Pueblo Mountains – August

Cairn along the Oregon Desert Trail in the Pueblo MountainsOregon Desert Trail, Pueblo Mountains – August

View from the Harmony TrailMt. St. Helens and Spirit Lake – August

Harmony FallsHarmony Falls – August

Loowit FallsLoowit Falls – August

Mt. St. Helens and Spirit Lake from Norway PassMt. St. Helens from Norway Pass – August

Mt. HoodMt. Hood from the PCT in the Indian Heaven Wilderness – September

Mt. Adams and Soda Peaks LakeMt. Adams and Soda Peaks Lake, Trapper Creek Wilderness – September

Jubilee LakeJubilee Lake – September

View from the Rough Fork TrailRough Fork Trail, Blue Mountains – September

Heritage Landing TrailHeritage Landing Trail, Deschutes River – September

Forest along the old roadbedMcDonald-Dunn Forest – October

Old Summit TrailCascade Mountains from the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness – October

Three Fingered Jack from Round LakeThree Fingered Jack from Round Lake – October

Mt. Hood and Lookout Mountain from Flag PointMt. Hood from the Flag Point Lookout

Mt. Hood from Lookout MountainMt. Hood from Lookout Mountain – October

214 TrailSilver Falls State Park – October

Laurel Hill Wagon ChuteLaurel Hill Wagon Chute – October

Off trail down Barlow RidgeBarlow Ridge, Mt. Hood Wilderness – October

Fern Ridge Wildlife AreaFern Ridge Wildlife Area – November

Here’s to an even better 2022. Happy New Year and Happy Trails!